CHAPTER 3
BALMS AND BARS

Image

Lip balm is one of the first things I made with our own beeswax and for good reason. Beeswax can help protect the lips from the harmful rays of the sun, has a pleasant smell, and it can help prevent infections and cold sores. In a pinch it can also be used to moisturize other body parts such as rough elbows or ragged cuticles.

BEGINNER

BASIC LIP BALM

A lip balm in a tube needs to be stiff enough to hold its shape and should not melt if kept in a pants pocket, yet when applied to lips, it should glide on easily. Pour that same lip balm into a tin, and it will probably be too stiff to be picked up with a finger and applied to the lips. I prefer lip balm in tubes, and the following recipe is one of my favorites.

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

27 g

30.00%

virgin coconut oil

26 g

29.60%

sweet almond oil

26 g

29.70%

castor oil

1 g

1.00%

lanolin

8 g

9.30%

Vitamin E oil

0.1 g

0.10%

rosemary oleoresin extract (ROE)

0.1 g

0.10%

lip-safe flavor oil

0.2 g

0.20%

wooden stir stick or kabob skewer

knife

digital scale

double boiler

20 lip balm tubes

Yield: 20 tubes

Image

1. Coarsely chop the beeswax or use beeswax pastilles. Weigh the ingredients. Place the beeswax, oils, and lanolin into a small pot or heat-safe bowl. Gently heat in the top of a double boiler until the beeswax and oils have melted.

Image

2. Once melted, remove from the double boiler and add essential oils and Vitamin E oil, stirring with a stir stick or wooden kebab skewer to combine. While it is still hot, pour the mixture into lip balm tubes. Allow to cool completely before placing caps onto the lip balm containers.

BEGINNER

LIP BALM WITH BUTTERS

Here is a lovely variation that includes cocoa butter. Cocoa butter comes in either the “natural” scent, which some describe as somewhat chocolatelike, or deodorized. There is no difference between the two, except personal preference.

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

20 g

21.64%

cocoa butter

20 g

21.64%

sunflower oil

45 g

48.70%

lanolin

5 g

5.41%

Vitamin E oil

2 g

2.16%

lip-safe flavor oil

12 drops

0.44%

knife

digital scale

double boiler

20 lip balm tubes

Yield: 20 tubes

Image

1. Coarsely chop the beeswax or use beeswax pastilles. Weigh ingredients. Place the beeswax, butter, sunflower oil, and lanolin in a small pot or heat-safe bowl. Gently heat the mixture in the top of a double boiler until the beeswax and butter have melted.

Image

2. Once melted, remove from the stovetop and add essential oil and Vitamin E oil. Immediately pour the mixture into lip balm containers.

3. Allow to cool completely before placing caps onto the lip balm containers.

BEGINNER

LIP GLOSS

Lip gloss is generally a softer balm that is stored in a jar or tin rather than a tube and usually has ingredients that add a bit of shine as well.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

10 g

9.87%

castor oil

20 g

19.74%

sweet almond oil

30 g

29.62%

shea butter

25 g

24.68%

cocoa butter

15 g

14.81%

lip safe flavor oil

0.3 g

0.30%

knife

digital scale

double boiler

lip gloss jars or tins

Yield: Makes twelve 1/4 oz (7 g) jars, or six 1/2 oz (15 g) tins

1. Coarsely chop the beeswax or use beeswax pastilles. Weigh the ingredients. Place the beeswax, butter, and oils and put into a small pot or heat-safe bowl and gently heat in the top of a double boiler until the beeswax and butters have melted.

2. Once melted, remove from the stovetop and add essential oil. Immediately pour the mixture into lip gloss containers. Allow to cool completely before placing caps onto the lip gloss containers.

SOLID BODY-CARE BARS

Much like lip balms, solid body-care bars are very simple to make, but it can take a while to achieve just the right combination of butters, oils, and wax for both personal preference and regional weather conditions—a person in the tropics, for example, may want a completely different lotion than someone in the Arctic. Experimentation is key. My aim when making a solid lotion bar is to find a balance between emolliency and skin feel. Let’s face it, solid lotion bars will leave skin feeling greasier than a liquid lotion, since there is no water to cut the greasy feeling, but with a good recipe, that greasiness can be significantly reduced.

BEGINNER

SOLID LOTION BAR

Solid lotion bars are an anhydrous blend of butters, oils, and waxes, not emulsified products that contain a large percentage of water.

Image

This blend yields a bar that can be handled easily without making a mess, but melts on contact to soothe and create an emollient barrier. Although butters such as shea butter and cocoa butter are wonderful for the skin, they do not directly moisturize the skin. The moisture needs to come from other sources, such as the dampness that remains after hand washing. When these butters are paired with the beeswax, however, they work together to create an occlusive barrier that seals in that moisture. Various butters also contain fatty acids that help to nourish the skin.

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

27 g

30.20%

virgin coconut oil

6 g

6.90%

sweet almond oil

12 g

13.80%

jojoba oil

12 g

13.80%

shea butter

10 g

10.50%

cocoa butter

12 g

10.50%

mango butter

5 g

5.30%

Vitamin E oil

0.1 g

0.10%

rosemary oleoresin extract (ROE)

0.1 g

0.10%

scent

0.9 g

1.00%

double boiler

digital scale

wooden stir stick

clear plastic guest soap molds. (They hold about 1 oz (28 g) of balm each and the cavities are small enough that the resulting balms fit easily into a tin. Muffin tins can also be used by filling 1" (2.5 cm) deep.)

2–3 oz (57–85 g) shallow tins (optional, but a nice touch)

Yield: Makes approximately three 1 oz (28 g) lotion bars

1. Melt beeswax, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, and jojoba together in a double boiler on low to medium heat until the beeswax is completely liquefied. Add cocoa butter and mango butter and melt until liquefied and then remove from heat.

2. Slowly add small pieces of shea butter to the mixture and allow to melt.

3. After the shea butter has melted into the mixture, add the Vitamin E oil, ROE, and scent and pour into molds.

4. Put the molds with the lotion into the freezer for about 15 minutes and then invert the mold onto a clean work surface. The solid lotion bars should come out easily with a light tap.

5. Place one solid lotion bar in each of the tins.

BEGINNER

MASSAGE BAR

This massage bar is essentially a solid lotion made with the oils and butters that work well for massage.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

56 g

25%

cocoa butter

79 g

35%

sesame oil

88 g

39%

scent

2 g

1%

double boiler

digital scale

molds (clear plastic soap molds or muffin tins work well)

tins with covers, large enough to hold each bar

Yield: Makes four 2 oz (57 g) bars

With massage, it is more important to have enough slip and adequate working time rather than a product that doesn’t feel greasy and absorbs quickly. I like to use a butter that creates both a hard bar and a bar that melts around body temperature, so cocoa butter is a stellar choice. Mold these in nice large pucks so that they are easy to use and can cover large areas.

1. Heat the beeswax with the sesame oil in a double boiler over low heat until melted, then add the cocoa butter.

2. Once the cocoa butter is melted, add scent, pour into molds, and chill for 15 minutes in the freezer.

3. Unmold the bars onto a clean work surface and place each bar in a tin or some other container to keep the bar clean.

BEGINNER

CUTICLE BALM

My cuticles take a beating, so I like to keep cuticle balm stashed throughout the house and car, so it is available to me whenever I remember to apply it. This balm will help to keep cuticles looking nice while improving nails at the same time. I love to include lanolin and lecithin in my cuticle balm. These two ingredients act as barriers, preventing nails from absorbing too much water, and the phospholipids in the lecithin keeps the nail flexible and less prone to breakage.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

29 g

28%

mango butter

32 g

30%

soybean oil

21 g

20%

lanolin

10.5 g

10%

lecithin

10.5 g

10%

Vitamin E oil

1 g

1%

lemon 5-fold essential oil

0.3 g

.33%

pink grapefruit essential oil

0.4 g

.34%

peppermint essential oil

0.3 g

.33%

double boiler

digital scale

spoon

20 lip balm tubes

Yield: Twenty 1.5 oz (42 g) tubes

1. Heat the beeswax, mango butter, and soybean oil together in a double boiler until completely melted.

2. Add the lanolin, lecithin, and Vitamin E oil, and when completely melted and mixed, add the essential oils.

3. This will be a stiff mixture when cooled, so I like to pour it into lip balm tubes. If more of a balmlike consistency is desired, cut back the beeswax to 15 percent and add the difference to the oils.

BEGINNER

HEEL BALM

My heels are especially prone to cracking, and applying this heel balm consistently over a two-week period always does the trick. This recipe has emu oil in it, which is supposed to penetrate skin and help to bring other ingredients into the skin as well.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

29 g

20%

shea butter

51 g

35%

coconut oil

36 g

25%

emu oil

12 g

8%

sweet almond oil

14.5 g

10%

Vitamin E oil

1.5 g

1%

peppermint essential oil

0.7 g

.5%

lemon 5-fold essential oil

0.7 g

.5%

double boiler

digital scale

wooden stir stick

deli cup

large twist-up tubes (I like oval mini deodorant tubes, but 1/2 oz [14 g] lip balm tubes work as well)

Yield: Five 1 oz (28 g) tubes

1. Heat the beeswax, shea butter, and coconut oil together in a double boiler until completely melted. Remove from heat.

2. Add the emu, sweet almond, and Vitamin E Oil, stirring with a stir stick to ensure it is thoroughly mixed and all the oils are completely melted. Let the mixture cool slightly and add the essential oils. Stir to incorporate.

Image

3. Transfer a small portion of the balm to the deli cup and return the rest to the double boiler to stay warm. Pinch the deli cup to form a pour spout and pour the balm into a tube. repeat until remaining tubes are filled. Allow to cool undisturbed.

4. When the balm has cooled, add the caps.

BEGINNER

CHEST RUB

Although chest rubs can be purchased commercially, most are made with petrolatum. My version is a soft balm recipe utilizing essential oils that improve respiratory congestion. For very young children, use half the amount of essential oils.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

26 g

23%

olive oil

85 g

75%

Vitamin E oil

1 g

1%

eucalyptus essential oil

0.6 g

.5%

camphor essential oil

0.5 g

.35%

birch essential oil

0.1 g

.15%

double boiler

digital scale

spoon

4 salve containers, 1-oz (28 g) each

Yield: Makes approximately four 1 oz (28 g) portions

1. Heat the beeswax and olive oil in a double boiler until melted.

2. Remove from heat and stir in the Vitamin E oil and essential oils.

3. Pour into salve containers.

BEGINNER

NONPETROLEUM JELLY

Nonpetroleum Jelly is a product that looks and feels a lot like petroleum jelly, but it is made with nonpetroleum products. Castor oil and beeswax have a symbiotic relationship. When heated beeswax is whisked into heated castor oil and whipped to a jelly consistency, the mixture provides a protective barrier to the skin, holding in moisture and helping to prevent chapping or irritation.

Image

MATERIALS

yellow beeswax

9 g

9%

castor oil

90 g

90%

Vitamin E oil

1 g

1%

double boiler

digital scale

pot

Yield: Makes 100 grams, or approximately two 2 oz (57 g) jars

1. Melt the beeswax in a double boiler and warm the castor oil in a separate pot.

2. Add the castor oil and Vitamin E oil to the melted wax, gently whipping the mixture as it cools. When finished it should have a jellylike consistency.

3. Package jelly into jars.