BASICS
HERE ARE A FEW recipes that will help you create terrific meals that fit into the grain brain–free regimen. The most important ones are homemade stocks (both chicken and beef) and mayonnaise, simply because they are used so often. A superb homemade stock pulled from the freezer can quickly turn into a satisfying lunch with the addition of some chopped greens and/or other vegetables, or a dinner with meat or cheese added. The sauces are clever multitaskers that can add zest to egg, vegetable, and meat dishes. I’ve included recipes for my favorite vinaigrettes, too, as well as a spice mix for adding zing to grilled meats.
Basic Stock
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
Stocks are fundamental kitchen staples, and a homemade stock is even more essential when you’re freeing yourself from grain brain, because many commercially prepared stocks or broths are laden with unnecessary ingredients and can be high in salt. When you make stock yourself, you have control over the ingredients, the seasoning, and the outcome.
For a rich stock, roast the bones first; if you want a really rich stock, add pieces of fresh meat to the roasting bones. Bones that are not roasted will result in a stock that is lighter in both color and flavor.
Be sure to use cold water when making stock. This ensures that the collagen (the gelatin-forming agent) is extracted from the bones as the liquid heats. Adding the bones to hot water would seal them, keeping the collagen inside, and since much of the flavor comes from the collagen and cartilage, you don’t want to lose any of the deliciousness.
If you don’t want to make stock, buy the best quality canned or boxed low-sodium organic chicken or beef broth you can find, and keep a supply in the pantry for last-minute kitchen emergencies.
4 pounds chicken, beef, or veal bones (raw, leftover, or roasted)
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery rib, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
6 peppercorns
5 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
Place the bones in a large stockpot and cover with cold water by at least 2 inches. (Do not add salt to the water; salt can be added when you use the stock in a recipe.) Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Add the carrot, celery, onion, peppercorns, parsley, and bay leaves. Be sure to skim off the scum that rises to the top. Again, bring to a boil; then, lower the heat to a bare simmer and cook, skimming frequently, until the stock is very flavorful, about 1 hour.
Remove the pot from the heat and pour the contents through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container. If you want a very clear stock, put a double layer of cheesecloth in the strainer before pouring.
Place the container of strained stock in a large bowl of ice to chill quickly. As it chills, the fat will rise to the top (along with any impurities); skim off and discard it.
When cool, pour the stock into small (perhaps 1-cup) containers for ease of use, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Chicken Stock: Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 cup): calories 10, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 0 g, protein 2 g, fat 0 g, sodium 65 mg, sugar 0 g
Beef Stock: Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 cup): calories 15, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 3 g, protein 4 g, fat 0 g, sodium 75 mg, sugar 1 g
Basic Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
This vinaigrette keeps well, covered and refrigerated. Not only is it a quick salad dressing, but it also adds flavor when drizzled on grilled fish, shellfish, pork, or poultry.
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Combine the oil and vinegar in a resealable container—a glass jar with a lid works well. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and shake vigorously to emulsify.
Use immediately, or cover and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature and shake to blend before using.
VARIATIONS: You can add 1 small minced shallot and/or 1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley or chives to the basic recipe.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 90, carbohydrates 0 g, fiber 0 g, protein 0 g, fat 11 g, sodium 37 mg, sugar 0 g
Balsamic Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
This is one of the most useful vinaigrettes to have as a pantry staple. It is a perfect drizzle for grilled vegetables, meats, poultry, or meaty fish, as well as a delicious salad topper.
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper
Combine the oil, vinegar, and mustard in a resealable container—a glass jar with a lid works well. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and shake vigorously to emulsify.
Use immediately, or cover and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature and shake to blend before using.
VARIATIONS: You can add 1 small minced shallot and/or 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil, flat-leaf parsley, or chives to the basic recipe.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 92, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 0 g, protein 0 g, fat 11 g, sodium 41 mg, sugar 18 g
Italian Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
If you use fresh herbs for this dressing, it won’t be traditionally Italian because true Italian cooks prefer dried. Fresh herbs also offer an entirely different flavor than dried. The ratio of oil to vinegar here is different than in a classic French vinaigrette and makes the mixture quite acidic. This recipe works best on salads with firm lettuces or those that predominantly feature vegetables. It also makes a wonderful marinade for steaks or chops.
½ cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried parsley
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Combine the vinegar, garlic, oregano, and parsley in a resealable container—a glass jar with a lid works well. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and shake vigorously to emulsify.
Use immediately, or cover and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature and shake to blend before using.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 121, carbohydrates 0 g, fiber 0 g, protein 0 g, fat 14 g, sodium 75 mg, sugar 0 g
Spiced Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
The toasted spice in this vinaigrette makes it a wonderful drizzle for grilled meats or fish as well as an aromatic dressing for vegetable salads. Although it calls for toasted cumin, you can use curry powder, Aleppo pepper, or any savory spice you like (avoid sweet spices like cinnamon). If you are using seeds, it is always best to toast them and then grind them into a powder in a spice grinder. However, even preground spices and spice mixes are enhanced by toasting.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons freshly ground toasted cumin
Salt and pepper
Combine the oil, lemon juice, and cumin in a resealable container—a glass jar with a lid works well. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and shake vigorously to emulsify.
Use immediately, or cover and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. If refrigerated, bring to room temperature and shake to blend before using.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 93, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 0 g, protein 0 g, fat 11 g, sodium 55 mg, sugar 0 g
Tomato Sauce
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
This basic tomato sauce can be used as a component of casseroles or gratins or as the base for a more flavorful sauce when herbs, spices, vegetables, and/or meats are added. Of course, in the height of summer when tomatoes are at their most delicious, by all means make this sauce with fresh-off-the-vine ones.
2 (28-ounce) cans chopped plum tomatoes, with their juice
1 cup canned tomato puree
¼ cup unsalted butter
Salt and pepper
Combine the tomatoes and the puree in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. When hot, begin adding the butter in small amounts until it blends into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste and continue to cook until the sauce has thickened slightly. It is hard to give an exact time as it will depend upon the liquid in the tomatoes and the looseness of the puree, but it should be no more than 30 minutes.
Use immediately, or remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 3 months. If freezing, it is a good idea to do so in 1-cup containers for ease of use.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (½ cup): calories 65, carbohydrates 7 g, fiber 2 g, protein 2 g, fat 4 g, sodium 283 mg, sugar 5 g
Mayonnaise
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Although jarred mayonnaise is in almost everybody’s refrigerator, it is so simple to make and tastes so good that I recommend you make your own. This gives you the assurance that it is both gluten- and carbohydrate-free. You can make mayonnaise by hand using a whisk, but the blender method is quicker and easier on your wrist.
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature (see Note)
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon champagne vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice
1½ to 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil or avocado oil
Fill the blender jar with boiling water and set it aside for a couple of minutes. (You need to heat the jar to help the eggs thicken.) Pour out the water and quickly wipe the jar dry.
Place the jar on the motor. Add the egg yolks and process on medium until very thick. Add the salt and mustard and quickly incorporate. Add the vinegar and process to blend.
With the motor running, begin pouring in the oil through the hole in the lid at an excruciatingly slow drip. The slower the drip, the more even the emulsification. When about half of the oil has been added, you should have a sauce that is like old-fashioned heavy cream, and you can begin adding the oil just a bit more quickly, as curdling will no longer be an issue. Continue adding the oil until the mayonnaise has a soft, creamy consistency. If it seems too thick after you have added all of the oil, add just a smidge more vinegar or just enough hot water to smooth the mix.
Scrape the mayonnaise into a clean container with a lid. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
VARIATIONS: To the above recipe, you can add minced fresh herbs, minced seeded green or red hot chiles or bell peppers, grated ginger root, or grated fresh horseradish to taste. Ground spices can also vary the flavor; cumin, cayenne, and cracked black pepper are favorite additions.
NOTE: Although we have all heard concerns about eating uncooked eggs, if you use high-quality eggs that have been properly stored, along with the quantity of acid called for in this recipe, there should be no risk. However, homemade mayonnaise does not keep, even covered and refrigerated, for long periods of time. It is best consumed when made.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 95, carbohydrates 0 g, fiber 0 g, protein 0 g, fat 11 g, sodium 37 mg, sugar 0 g
Easy Hollandaise Sauce
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
Blender hollandaise was introduced, I believe, by Julia Child in the late 1960s. It made home cooks much more willing to try recipes calling for hollandaise, as the classic method takes skill and patience. Although best known as the sauce for eggs Benedict (here), it can also turn a dish of steamed vegetables into an elegant and satisfying meal.
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, strained
¾ teaspoon salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or to taste
½ cup clarified butter (see Note), melted
Bring a few inches of water to a boil in the bottom half of a double boiler set over high heat.
Place the egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, and Tabasco in a blender and process on medium speed for 45 seconds. With the blender running, add the hot clarified butter through the hole in the lid in a very slow, steady stream and process until the mixture is very smooth and slightly thickened.
Scrape the sauce from the blender into the top half of the double boiler and set it on the bottom half to keep warm until ready to use.
NOTE: Clarified butter is the clear liquid that appears when the butterfat separates from the water and milk solids in slowly melted butter. To make clarified butter, cut 1 pound of unsalted butter into cubes and place it in a medium saucepan over very low heat. Cook, without stirring and without allowing the butter to bubble or brown, for 20 minutes. Strain the yellow liquid that rises to the top into a clean container, discarding all of the solids at the bottom. Cool to room temperature; then, cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Reheat the clarified butter as needed. Some grocery stores sell Indian-style clarified butter, called ghee. Ghee is made in much the same way as plain clarified butter, but it is allowed to brown a bit to caramelize the milk solids, and it often has added spices or herbs.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (3 tablespoons): calories 294, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 0 g, protein 2 g, fat 31 g, sodium 445 mg, sugar 0 g
Chimichurri
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS
This is my version of the classic Argentinean meat condiment. Although especially wonderful on steaks, it can be used on almost anything, from seafood to meat to vegetables, to add a delightfully fresh flavor. It should be made no more than a couple of hours before using so that the herbs retain their bright color and taste. It is one of the most refreshing sauces I know.
2 cups chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup chopped scallions, green and white parts
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon minced garlic
Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Combine the parsley, scallions, oregano, cilantro, garlic, lemon juice, and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process, using quick on and off turns, to just barely mince and combine.
Scrape the mixture from the processor bowl into a clean container. Add the oil and vinegar and stir to blend. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve. Chimichurri can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 day, but the longer you store it, the darker the color will be, and you want it to be a fresh green.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 168, carbohydrates 2 g, fiber 1 g, protein 1 g, fat 19 g, sodium 103 mg, sugar 0 g
Tapenade
MAKES 2 CUPS
This pungent mix is a typical Provençal dish that in France is generally served on small toasts along with an aperitif. I find it works marvels with raw or lightly steamed vegetables. It can also be used to stuff poultry or pork. Tapenade traditionally has anchovies, but I’ve made them optional here. Either way, it is a tasty dip.
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
½ cup chopped red bell pepper
½ cup chopped yellow bell pepper
½ cup chopped green bell pepper
1 cup chopped imported black olives
¾ cup chopped walnuts
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1 tablespoon chopped capers
¼ cup red wine vinegar
½ cup minced anchovies, optional
Salt and pepper
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring, just until they begin to color, about 3 minutes. Add the bell peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the peppers have softened, about 6 minutes more.
Stir in the olives, walnuts, parsley, basil, and capers. When blended, add the vinegar and anchovies (if using) and season with salt and pepper to taste. Lower the heat and cook until the flavors have blended and the mixture is slightly thick, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Use immediately, or cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (2 tablespoons): calories 52, carbohydrates 1 g, fiber 0 g, protein 1 g, fat 5 g, sodium 113 mg, sugar 0 g
Creole Crunch
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
Creole food, which is considered a bit more refined than Cajun, combines zesty French, African, and Spanish flavors. This crunchy rub adds a bit of spice and heat to pork, chicken, steaks, and burgers as well as to shrimp and fish. If you like even more heat, add additional cayenne pepper.
1 cup dried onion flakes
½ cup dried bell pepper flakes
3 tablespoons hot paprika
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried oregano
3 tablespoons black pepper
2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons celery seeds
1 tablespoon dried garlic flakes
Combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl, mixing to blend well. Transfer to an airtight container, cover, and store in a cool, dry spot for up to 6 months.
Nutritional Analysis per Serving (1 tablespoon): calories 13, carbohydrates 3 g, fiber 1 g, protein 1 g, fat 0 g, sodium 2 mg, sugar 1 g