Anyone who’s tried to make a good sauce knows how difficult it is to layer flavors and develop depth. Fortunately, peanut butter’s done the job for you, providing a sweet, rich balance to spikier tastes like chiles and ginger. So here’s a full set of sauces, mostly Asian—Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian, and Szechwan. Most are served in splendid simplicity—over noodles—but we also offer lots of suggestions for other ways to enjoy these flavorful, intense sauces.
We crafted this version of the classic Thai peanut sauce to be lower in fat and sugar than some traditional versions—a healthier way to eat, for sure, but just as tasty. The sauce is not pureed as it often is; we feel the chunky texture adds depth and stands up better to the heat. It’s best over the tiny threadlike noodles known as angel pasta—more chewiness against the heat in each bite.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Nonstick spray
1 small onion, minced (about 1/3 cup)
1 garlic clove, minced
11/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons chili paste (see page 7)
2 teaspoons packed dark brown sugar
3/4 cup nonfat evaporated milk
1/2 cup chunky standard peanut butter
Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)
8 ounces dried angel hair pasta or other thin pasta, or 12 ounces fresh pasta, cooked and drained according to the package’s instructions
1. Spray a large nonstick skillet with nonstick spray and set the pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger; sauté until fragrant and soft, about 1 minute. Stir in the chili paste and brown sugar; cook, stirring constantly, until very aromatic, about 15 seconds. Stir in the evaporated milk, peanut butter, and lime juice. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until the peanut butter dissolves into the sauce. Simmer for 10 seconds.
2. Pour the warm sauce over the noodles in a large bowl. Toss well and serve at once.
Substitute 3/4 cup coconut milk, preferably light coconut milk, for the nonfat evaporated milk.
With either the evaporated milk or coconut milk version of these sauces, you can also add 1 tablespoon fish sauce or 2 teaspoons tamarind paste (see pages 9, 12).
You can also substitute chunky natural peanut butter for a less sweet sauce.
You can puree either sauce in a blender or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade for a smoother, silkier texture.
You can also increase the chili paste to 1 tablespoon—but beware.
Anyone who’s had Chinese takeout will recognize this noodle dish as our take on cold sesame noodles. In our version, peanut butter replaces the sesame paste, but we’ve retained the authentic sesame oil for its subtle taste. Adjust the heat according to your palate, or forgo the chili oil altogether for a sweet-and-sour version.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1/2 cup creamy standard peanut butter
6 tablespoons vegetable broth, preferably reduced-sodium broth
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil (see page 12)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
11/2 tablespoons rice vinegar (see page 11)
2 teaspoons Shao Shing (see page 12)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon chili oil or a few dashes of Tabasco sauce
8 ounces dried spaghetti, or 12 ounces fresh spaghetti, cooked and drained according to the package instructions
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1. Whisk the peanut butter, broth, sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, Shao Shing, sugar, and chili oil or Tabasco sauce in a medium bowl until smooth. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance.) Cover and refrigerate, then allow to come to room temperature before continuing with the recipe.
2. Toss the sauce with the noodles in a large bowl. Top with the scallions just before serving.
This piquant sauce is great over fresh egg noodles like fettuccine.
It’s terrific over grilled or broiled chicken breasts, particularly if you serve them alongside a vinegary coleslaw.
You can thin out the sauce with more vegetable broth to make a rich dressing over a chunky vegetable salad of carrots, broccoli, and sugar snaps.
Serve the sauce as a dip for steamed or grilled shrimp, or set it out as a cocktailhour appetizer dip with small rice crackers and celery ribs.
We love cucumber noodles, long strips of cucumber made with a vegetable peeler. They’re cool, refreshing, and a great match to this spiky sauce. They’re also great for a summer picnic—just bring the sauce and cucumber noodles separately and toss them together right before you eat. For help with some of the more obscure ingredients here, check out pages 7-13.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
6 tablespoons creamy standard peanut butter
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons black vinegar, or 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
11/2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon chili oil
2 large cucumbers, peeled
1. Whisk the peanut butter, sesame oil, black vinegar, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and chili oil in a medium bowl until smooth. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance; cover and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before whisking again and proceeding with the recipe.)
2. To make the noodles, hold one peeled cucumber over a large bowl and run the peeler lightly over one side of it, thereby shaving off a long “noodle.” Make a few more long strips, then rotate the cucumber a quarter turn or so and continue making “noodles,” then do it from all sides until you get down to the seedy, pulpy middle—discard this and repeat with the other cucumber. (The cucumber noodles can be made up to 1 day in advance; cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to make the dish.)
3. Place the cucumber noodles in a large serving bowl and toss with the sauce. Serve at once.
Arrange the cucumber noodles on a platter, top with the Hacked Chicken (page 74), and spoon the sauce over the whole dish.
Use the sauce as a dip for fresh vegetables: cauliflower, broccoli, sugar snaps, or baby carrots.
Forgo the noodles and try the sauce over cooked spaghetti squash or as a dip for tortilla chips.
Thin the sauce out with some chicken or vegetable broth and use it as a dressing for a salad of chopped celery, chopped red onion, halved cherry tomatoes, and sliced almonds.
Here’s a traditional Chinese dish that’s perfect for a buffet or potluck. It should be served cold. The chicken and sauce can be stored separately in the refrigerator, then tossed together right before the dish is brought to the table. The sauce is actually a condiment for the chicken—the meat shouldn’t be swimming in it. We prefer natural peanut butter here so that the sauce isn’t quite so sweet.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
1/4 cup toasted sesame oil (see page 12)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons black vinegar (see page 7), or 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon chili oil (see page 7), or less to taste
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
One 3-pound chicken, giblets and neck removed and discarded
One 4-inch piece fresh peeled ginger, cut into 4 chunks
6 scallions, cut into 2-inch chunks
4 garlic cloves
2 star anise
1. Whisk the peanut butter, sesame oil, soy sauce, black vinegar, sugar, chili oil, orange zest, and pepper in a medium bowl until smooth. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
2. Place the chicken, ginger, scallions, garlic, and star anise in a large saucepan or a large pot. Cover the chicken with cold water to a depth of at least 2 inches. Place the pan over high heat, cover, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is almost falling off the bones, about 40 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, keep it covered, and let the pot stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. Remove the chicken from the pot; discard all the aromatics (see Note). Remove the skin from the chicken and discard. Pull the meat off the bones and cut or shred it into uneven shards. Place the meat in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours or overnight.
4. Mound the hacked chicken on a serving platter. Pour about half the sauce over the top and serve at once, passing the remaining sauce on the side for anyone who wants more.
NOTE: The poaching liquid with the aromatics can be boiled down to make chicken broth, suitable for cooking, particularly in Asian dishes. Return the chicken bones to the pot, bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until reduced by half, about 40 minutes. Strain into glass jars and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; or let the broth cool somewhat, then strain into a sealable plastic container or several small ones and freeze until you’re ready to use it, for up to 4 months.
Once you mound the chicken on the platter and top it with sauce, sprinkle 2 tablespoons chopped toasted pecans, 2 tablespoons chopped roasted unsalted peanuts, or 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds over the dish.
Before placing it on the platter, toss the chicken with 3 chopped scallions, 1/2 cup minced celery, and/or 1/3 cup minced carrots.
This sauce is a fine spread for sandwiches and wraps, particularly those made with roast turkey. You can either use the sauce on its own or combine it with an equal amount of mayonnaise.
Rice noodles are thin noodles made from rice starch. Once they’re soaked in boiling water, they’re ready to go. They make an easy addition to this classic Vietnamese sauce of peanut butter and coconut milk.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 fresh serrano chiles, split open (seeds removed, if desired)
1 small shallot (both bulbs), quartered
1 small garlic clove
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons creamy natural peanut butter
1/2 cup chicken broth, preferably reduced-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup coconut milk, preferably light coconut milk (see page 8)
2 tablespoons fish sauce (see page 9)
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon tamarind paste (see page 12)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
16 ounces (1 pound) dried rice noodles or rice stick noodles, cooked and drained according to the package’s instructions (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1. Place the chiles, shallot, garlic, and cilantro in a large food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse until coarsely ground. Add the peanut butter, broth, coconut milk, fish sauce, brown sugar, tamarind paste, and black pepper. Process until smooth.
2. Toss the sauce with the noodles in a large bowl. Sprinkle the cinnamon over the top and serve at once.
NOTE: Rice stick noodles are slightly wider versions of the traditional rice noodles; they are usually sold in dried bundles. Because the noodles do not expand when cooked, you should use more of them than you would for the same servings of Italian pasta.
Use it as a flavoring condiment for an easy stir-fry. After you’ve cooked some garlic and scallions in oil, add some shredded meat of your choice and some chopped broccoli or asparagus, stir-fry a minute or two more until the meat is cooked through, and stir in 2 tablespoons or more of the sauce. You can even add the soaked and drained rice noodles into the dish for the last few tosses to make a Southeast Asian-inspired noodle stir-fry.
Here’s our Indonesian interpretation of coleslaw, that American picnic favorite.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
3 tablespoons lime juice
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil (see page 12)
1 small shallot (both bulbs), minced
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon sweet soy sauce (see page 12); or 2 teaspoons soy sauce and 1 teaspoon unsulphured molasses
1 teaspoon chili paste (see page 7—we prefer a Thai bottling with this slaw)
1 garlic clove, quartered
6 cups shredded Napa cabbage, shredded cabbage, or packaged coleslaw mix
1 large cucumber, peeled, then shredded through the large holes of a box grater
1. Place the peanut butter, lime juice, sesame oil, shallot, sugar, sweet soy sauce, chili paste, and garlic in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or a mini food processor; blend until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. (The dressing can be made up to 3 days in advance; cover and refrigerate, then allow to come to room temperature before whisking smooth and proceeding with the recipe.)
2. Place the cabbage and cucumber in a large bowl; toss with half the dressing, passing the remainder of the dressing on the side for those who would like more.
You can add any or several of the following to the vegetables before you dress them: 1 cup canned mandarin orange sections, 1 cup canned drained pineapple chunks, 1 cup shredded carrot, 1/2 cup chopped apple, 1/2 cup chopped celery, 1/2 cup chopped radishes, 1/2 cup raisins, 1/2 cup chopped red onion, 1/4 cup chopped scallions, 2 tablespoons chopped roasted unsalted peanuts, or 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds.
A Japanese favorite, soba noodles are made from buckwheat. They’re available along with Asian noodles in most large supermarkets and all Asian grocery stores. This simple sauce is sour and very gingery, a nice match to the toothy noodles. If you want a sweeter sauce, use creamy standard peanut butter, not natural. The recipe only makes about 1/2 cup of sauce—less is more here, but you can always double or even triple the sauce recipe if you want leftovers.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
3 tablespoons ginger juice (see page 9)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar (see page 11)
5 dashes Tabasco sauce, or to taste
8 ounces dried soba noodles, cooked and drained according to the package’s instructions
6 ounces snow peas, thinly sliced the long way and blanched (see Note)
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced as thinly as possible
1. Whisk the peanut butter, ginger juice, soy sauce, and rice vinegar in a small bowl until smooth, about like creamy salad dressing. Season with Tabasco sauce to taste. (You can make this sauce up to 1 week in advance; cover it tightly, store it in the refrigerator, and bring it to room temperature before whisking and serving.)
2. Place the cooked noodles, snow peas, and red bell pepper in a large bowl; pour in the peanut sauce and toss well. Serve at once.
NOTE: The easiest way to blanch the snow peas is to toss them into the pot with the noodles during the last 10 to 15 seconds of cooking time. Drain and rinse them with the noodles under cool water.
Use this sauce as a condiment over steamed vegetables (particularly broccoli and asparagus).
Serve it on the side with roast chicken, pork, or salmon.
Use it as a stir-fry sauce—at the end of a stir-fry, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons for flavor and garnish.
Tofu, which makes this Asian-inspired sauce so silky, comes in two basic varieties: firm and silken. The latter, called for here, is smoother and softer, better for sauces. Some popular brands, such as Mori-Nu, now sell “silken firm,” a hybrid and equally good for this sauce.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
3/4 cup silken tofu
1/2 cup creamy standard peanut butter
3 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sugar
8 ounces dried spinach noodles or 12 ounces fresh spinach noodles, cooked and drained according to the package’s instructions
1. Place the tofu, peanut butter, soy sauce, red wine vinegar, ginger, and sugar in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or in a wide-canister blender. Process or blend until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. (The sauce can be made up to 3 days in advance; store it, covered, in the refrigerator but allow it to come to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe.)
2. Toss the noodles with the sauce in a large bowl. Serve at once.
Make your own Asian-inspired burritos with a flour tortilla, some chopped radishes or radish sprouts, chopped tomatoes, Cucumber Noodles (page 72), and a little of this sauce.
Add lots of protein to grilled veggies by serving this sauce on the side.
Thin it out with a little vegetable or chicken broth and serve it as a dressing for a salad of sliced pears, Romaine lettuce, sliced red onion, and diced carrots.
Stir a tablespoon or two into any pot of beef stew right before you serve it to make a richer, creamier dish.
This cooked sauce, a kind of Szechwan ragù, is often served as either a fiery starter or side dish. The ground pork adds texture and bite; the preserved Chinese vegetables lend an authentic taste. We find the sauce works best over thick, tubular noodles, such as the round egg noodles served with lo mein or even Japanese udon noodles.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1/2 pound ground pork
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped preserved Chinese vegetables (see page 11)
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
3/4 cup chicken broth, preferably reduced-sodium broth
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
2 teaspoons chili paste (see page 7)
8 ounces dry lo-mein egg noodles or udon noodles, or 12 ounces fresh noodles, cooked and drained according to the package’s instructions
1. Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the ground pork and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the scallions, preserved Chinese vegetables, garlic, ginger, and soy sauce; cook about 1 minute, stirring frequently. Whisk in the broth, peanut butter, and chili paste until smooth. Cook until simmering and slightly thickened, about 2 more minutes, stirring often. (The sauce can be made up to 2 days in advance; cover and refrigerate, then reheat in a medium saucepan with a little extra broth to thin it out, or in the microwave.)
2. Pour the sauce over the noodles in a large serving bowl, toss well, and serve at once.
Substitute an equivalent amount of ground beef for the pork. Do not use extra-lean ground beef or the sauce will be too dry.
You can also substitute ground turkey, but increase the oil to 3 tablespoons.
Or you can use textured soy protein, such as Yves’ The Good Ground, Veggie
Original Flavor; if you do, substitute vegetable broth for the chicken broth.
This thick sauce is a condiment for fresh rice paper-wrapped rolls. They’re not fried like egg rolls; instead, these Vietnamese wrappers are just soaked and softened, then filled with a fresh mix of veggies and sauce. The whole thing’s light and easy, perfect for lunch or a snack on a hot afternoon. Look for rice paper wrappers in the Asian aisle of larger supermarkets or in all Asian markets.
MAKES 36 SUMMER ROLLS (ABOUT 12 APPETIZER OR 6 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS)
1/2 cup creamy natural peanut butter
3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil (see page 12)
2 tablespoons black vinegar (see page 7), or 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons chili paste (see page 7)
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 pound extra-firm tofu, finely chopped into small cubes
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and shredded through the large hole of a box grater
1 cup shredded carrot
1 cup thinly sliced celery
36 rice paper wrappers
1. Use a whisk or a fork to mix the peanut butter, sesame oil, black vinegar, soy sauce, chili paste, and sugar in a large bowl until smooth. (The sauce can be made in advance up to 1 week ahead of time; cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to use it.)
2. Toss the tofu, bell pepper, carrot, and celery into the sauce and stir well.
3. Fill a large shallow bowl, soup plate, or pie pan halfway with hot tap water. Gently submerge one rice paper wrapper in the water; keep it there just until it softens, about 20 seconds, but not too long or it will become fragile and tear when used. Lay the softened rice paper roll on a clean, dry work surface.
4. Place 2 tablespoons of the tofu and vegetable mixture in the center of the paper, making a small rectangle of filling. Fold the rice paper wrapper over the filling by taking the two edges of the circle nearest the short sides of the filling’s rectangle and fold them up and over the filling. Then roll the wrapper closed, starting at the side of the circle nearest you and rolling away from you, thereby enclosing the filling inside the wrapper, like an egg roll. Set aside on a large serving platter, and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap and a barely damp kitchen towel over the plastic wrap.
5. Continue making the summer rolls, following the method in steps 2 and 3, until all the filling and wrappers are used. Once the water turns tepid, you’ll need to pour it out and refill the dish with hot water. Serve at once or store in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for up to 2 hours.
Substitute 1 cup shredded radish, broccoli, garlic, or soybean sprouts for the carrot.
Substitute 1/2 pound precooked, peeled, deveined, and chopped medium cocktail shrimp (about 30 per pound) for the tofu.