In some ways, this chapter is the heart of the book. We Americans may have perfected the art of making cookies and cakes with peanut butter, but this spread actually finds its savory home in other parts of the world, particularly in Asia and Africa. Some of the dishes that follow are traditional—Pad Thai, Satay, Senegalese Peanut Stew—and some are, well, more whimsical: Peanut Butter Glazed Ham, for one. But they all use peanut butter in unexpected ways to showcase its ability to make a sauce, glaze, or thickener in no time at all, adding depth and flavor to many savory dishes.
Although there are many versions for this simple but hearty soup in central African cultures, our recipe has been adapted to accommodate western supermarkets. Ground nuts are a common nickname for peanuts, even in the American South (along with “goobers”). Here, they turn a vegetarian squash soup into a hearty warmer for a late winter night or an early spring evening.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper or to taste
One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, preferably no-salt diced tomatoes
1 medium kabocha, acorn, butternut, or blue hubbard squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable broth
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
8 kale leaves, stemmed and shredded
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
1/4 cup chopped unsalted roasted peanuts, for garnish
1. Heat a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then add the onion and bell pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes.
2. Stir in the cayenne, cook for 5 seconds, then add the tomatoes, squash, and broth. Stir in the peanut butter until it dissolves. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the squash is soft, about 15 minutes, stirring once in a while.
3. Stir in the kale, cover again, and cook until the kale is tender and the squash starts to fall apart and thus thicken the soup, about 10 minutes. Season with salt, if desired, and serve at once, garnishing each bowl with 1 tablespoon chopped peanuts.
Add 1 tablespoon yellow curry powder, 2 teaspoons garam masala, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or 2 bay leaves with the cayenne (discard the bay leaves before serving).
Increase the broth to 3 cups and add 1/2 pound cubed peeled yellow-flesh potatoes, such as Yukon golds, with the squash.
Omit the squash altogether and use 2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes.
Add 1 pound chicken tenders with the kale or 1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts cut into thin strips.
Add 1 pound medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined (see page 101 for tips on how to do this), during the last 5 minutes of cooking.
Here’s a satisfying, easy East Indian dish that’ll hit the spot on a chilly evening—and cure that peanut butter craving, too! While the dish is made with bottled curry powder, you can substitute 1 tablespoon of one of the spice mélanges used in the Curried Peanut Stew (page 93). Serve the dish over wilted spinach or greens, or over an aromatic rice like jasmine, basmati, or Texmati.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil Six (4-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 medium onion, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped (see Note)
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 medium tart apple, such as Granny Smith or McIntosh, peeled, cored, and chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
11/3 cups chicken broth, preferably reduced-sodium broth
2 tablespoons creamy standard peanut butter
2 teaspoons yellow curry powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
1. Heat a large nonstick skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add the peanut oil, wait a few seconds, then add the chicken breasts. Brown one side, turn, then brown the other, for a total of about 6 minutes in the skillet. Transfer them to a plate, tent with foil, and set aside.
2. Add the onion, celery, and ginger; cook, stirring frequently, just until the onion softens a bit, about 2 minutes. Toss in the apple and garlic; continue cooking for 2 more minutes, stirring often. Meanwhile, whisk the broth and peanut butter in a small bowl until smooth; set aside.
3. Sprinkle the curry powder and salt over the vegetables, stir well, and tuck in the bay leaf. Pour the broth mixture over the vegetables and bring the mixture to a simmer, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.
4. Return the chicken breasts to the pan, coating them in the sauce. Cover the pan, reduce the heat, and simmer slowly until the breasts are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and serve at once.
Substitute pork chops for the chicken breasts. Use thick-cut pork chops and a wide sauté pan. Increase the broth to 2 cups.
Substitute about 11/2 pounds lean pork sausage or textured soy protein sausage for the chicken. If you’re using soy sausage, do not brown it first in the pan—simply add it to the pan in step 4.
Substitute 11/2 pounds medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined for the chicken breasts (see page 101 for tips on dealing with shrimp). Omit cooking them in step 1; simply add them in step 4 when you would have returned the chicken to the pan.
This stew is made with a genuine curry—that is, a spice mélange you build yourself. The result is a deep, rich taste without a lot of fuss or time.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil
8 skinless chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
11/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup reduced-sodium tomato sauce
1/2 cup creamy natural peanut butter
11/2 cups vegetable broth
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
2 cups cooked white rice
1. Heat a large, deep saucepan over medium heat. Pour in the oil, wait a second or two, then add the chicken thighs—in batches, if necessary. Brown them on both sides, about 2 minutes per side; transfer them to a plate and set aside.
2. Toss the onions into the pan and cook, stirring often, until somewhat softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds, then sprinkle in the ground coriander, dry mustard, cinnamon, cumin, ginger, turmeric, and pepper. Cook until aromatic, about 20 seconds.
3. Pour in the tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Once the sauce comes to a simmer, stir in the peanut butter until it dissolves, then stir in the broth. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the pan. Bring the stew to a simmer, cover, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer slowly until the chicken is cooked through and the stew is thick, about 30 minutes, stirring often to prevent scorching.
4. Just before serving, stir the vinegar and salt, if using, into the stew. To serve, place 1/2 cup of cooked rice in each of 4 soup bowls; top each with 2 chicken thighs and one-quarter of the sauce.
For a hotter Madras-style curry, omit all the dried spices and in their stead add this mixture: 2 teaspoons ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper.
For an even hotter, Vindaloo-inspired curry, omit all the dried spices and in their stead add: 1 teaspoon turmeric, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper.
For a Thai-inspired curry, omit all the dried spices and add 1 to 2 teaspoons red Thai curry paste (see page 12). Also add 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger with the garlic. Add 2 tablespoons fish sauce (see page 9) with the tomato sauce.
To make a creamier stew, stir 1 cup sour cream or yogurt (regular, low-fat, or nonfat) into the stew with the vinegar, once the pot is off the heat.
Oxtails have made a culinary comeback in the past few years—and no wonder: what a sybaritic feast as you suck the juicy meat off the bones! Many cultures, from Dutch to South African, have ways to cook these tender bits, but none uses peanut butter like this traditional stew from the Philippines.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon white rice
2 tablespoons peanut oil
4 pounds oxtail segments
2 large whole shallots (both halves of the bulb from each), minced
4 large garlic cloves, minced
4 medium Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped (see Note)
5 cups beef broth, preferably no-salt-added, nonfat broth
1/4 cup fish sauce (see page 9)
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup creamy natural peanut butter
3/4 pound green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 21/2 cups)
1. Toast the rice in a small nonstick skillet set over low heat until golden and very aromatic, about 3 minutes, shaking the pan constantly to avoid burning the rice. Cool off the heat about 5 minutes, then place in a clean spice grinder or coffee grinder and grind the toasted rice into a powder; this will later be used as a condiment on top of the dish.
2. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. (If it has nonmetal handles, wrap them in aluminum foil to protect them from the oven’s heat later on.) Swirl in the peanut oil, wait a couple of seconds, then add about half the oxtail segments. Brown them on all sides, turning often with metal tongs, about 4 minutes, then transfer them to a large plate and continue cooking the remaining oxtail segments in the same way. Set the browned oxtails aside.
4. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 30 seconds. Add the garlic, cook for 10 seconds, then stir in the tomatoes. Continue cooking just until they begin to break down, about 20 seconds. Pour in the broth and fish sauce. Stir well with a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, then return the oxtails to the pot and tuck in the bay leaves. Bring the sauce to a simmer, cover the pan, and place it in the oven to bake until the oxtail meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
5. Remove the pot from the oven (be careful of escaping steam and hot, slippery handles). Use a slotted spoon to transfer the oxtails to a large platter. Be gentle because they’re tender and you want to keep the meat on the bones. Skim the sauce for any fat (there may be up to 1 cup), then stir in the peanut butter and green beans. Return the oxtails to the pot, cover it again, and place it in the oven for another 30 minutes, until the meat is falling off the bones.
6. To serve, discard the bay leaves. Use a large spoon to lift the oxtails and green beans out of the stew and put them into deep soup bowls. Cover with sauce, then sprinkle about 1/4 teaspoon toasted rice powder over each bowl.
NOTE: For a more aesthetic look, you can seed the tomatoes, too. Cut them into wedges, then use your fingers or a small spoon to dig out the inner membranes and seeds. Discard these and chop the remaining parts of the tomato.
For a hotter stew, add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1 teaspoon chili paste (see page 7) to the pot with the fish sauce, or serve the dish with Tabasco sauce on the side.
Substitute any of the following for the green beans: broccoli florets, cauliflower florets, or asparagus spears, cut into 2-inch segments.
Add 1/2 pound of any greens, stemmed and roughly chopped, to the pot after you’ve skimmed the fat. Consider hearty, flavorful greens such as collard greens, kale, mustard greens, or Swiss chard.
Check the freshness of mussels in two ways: 1) they should smell clean, not fishy or swampy; and 2) any open mussels should close when tapped (discard any that do not). When you get them home, store them in a large bowl in your refrigerator, covered loosely with damp paper towels, for no more than 12 hours. This recipe can easily be doubled or tripled at will.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
2 pounds fresh mussels
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon green Thai curry paste (see page 12)
1/2 cup coconut milk, preferably light coconut milk (see page 8)
2 tablespoons fish sauce (see page 9)
2 tablespoons creamy standard peanut butter
1. Wash the mussels thoroughly, scrubbing off any sand or impurities that cling to their shells. Debeard them by pulling out the wiry filaments that protrude from the openings in their shells; once you do this, the mussels will die, so now work quickly through the recipe to get them cooked.
2. Heat a large nonstick wok or a large, deep saucepan over medium-high heat. Pour in the peanut oil, wait for 5 seconds, then add the onion, ginger, and green Thai curry paste. Sauté for 30 seconds, just until the onion softens a bit.
3. Stir in the coconut milk, fish sauce, and peanut butter until the sauce is smooth. Add the mussels, stir well, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Cover the wok or the saucepan, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook just until the mussels open and expose the inner meat, 3 to 4 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open. Toss well and serve with lots of crusty bread on hand to scoop up the sauce. Make sure you have a bowl to toss the shells in while you eat the dish.
For a sweeter sauce, add 1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar with the fish sauce.
For a hotter sauce, use red Thai curry paste rather than green.
Reduce the mussels to 1 pound and add 1 pound scrubbed clams or 1/2 pound medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined with the remaining mussels (see page 101 for tips on how to deal with the shrimp).
This same sauce works well for soft-shell crabs. Cut four of them into quarters, then add them to the sauce. Cover and cook until tender, about 3 minutes.
There may be no more classic peanut butter dish than this sweet-hot Thai noodle concoction that’s become something of a new American staple. It’s best the moment it’s made, when the flavors are bright and intense, so have the ingredients prepped in advance and be ready to sit down with a good beer the moment the dish comes out of the wok.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
8 ounces dried rice or rice stick noodles
1/3 cup chunky natural peanut butter
1/4 cup fish sauce (see page 9)
2 tablespoons hoisin (see page 9)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (see page 11)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon chili paste (see page 7)
2 tablespoons peanut oil
4 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 pound medium shrimp, about 30 per pound, peeled and deveined (see Note)
1/4 pound bean sprouts (about 11/2 cups)
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
2 tablespoons lime juice
1. Cover the noodles with hot tap water in a large bowl and soak for 10 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse with warm water, and set aside while you make the sauce.
2. Whisk the peanut butter, fish sauce, hoisin, rice vinegar, sugar, and chili paste in a medium bowl until creamy; set aside.
3. Heat a large nonstick wok or a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, wait a couple of seconds, then add the scallions. Stir-fry until slightly softened, about 1 minute; then add the garlic and continue stir-frying until fragrant, about 15 seconds.
4. Add the shrimp and stir-fry until pink, about 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and continue stir-frying for 1 minute. Pour in the prepared peanut butter sauce, then the prepared, drained noodles. Toss and cook until bubbly, about 1 minute; then stir in the cilantro and lime juice just before you dish it up.
NOTE: Peel a shrimp by turning it so the legs face you. Gently pry the legs apart, bending the shell into an arc until it splits between the legs. Grab the extreme end of the tail and gently but firmly pull it free of the meat. Then peel off the shell intact.
The so-called “vein” running down the shrimp is actually its digestive tract, often full of impurities. To remove the vein, use a knife to make a small slit along the convex curve of the shrimp’s “back,” then pull out the vein. If the vein splits, use the tip of the knife to pick out the pieces.
Of course, you can avoid all this mess by asking the fishmonger to peel and devein the shrimp for you.
Hams glazed with all sorts of sweet concoctions are something of a tradition in the South—and so why not with a peanut butter sauce, one that celebrates one of the region’s most famous products?
MAKES 12 SERVINGS
One 10- to 12-pound cooked smoked ham
1 cup apricot jam
1/2 cup creamy natural peanut butter
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup dark rum, such as Myers’s
1/4 cup cognac or brandy
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1. Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 300°F.
2. Remove the skin from the ham and all but a thin layer of fat surrounding the meat. Place the ham in a large roasting pan. If desired, you can place the ham on a rack to lift it out of the fat that inevitably will drip off while it cooks. Bake until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the ham (but not touching the bone) registers 140°F, 2 to 21/2 hours. If you’ve bought a spiralsliced ham, it will cook faster than one that’s not so cut. In any event, cover the ham with foil during the baking if it begins to brown darkly as it cooks.
3. While the ham is baking, place the apricot jam, peanut butter, water, rum, cognac or brandy, lemon juice, dry mustard, ginger, and cloves in a large blender or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Blend or process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the canister or bowl as necessary.
4. When the ham’s temperature reaches 140°F, remove it from the oven and spread the peanut butter glaze over it. If you have a spiral-sliced ham, separate the slices just slightly so that you get the glaze into them a little bit, perhaps 1/2 inch. Return the ham to the oven and continue baking until the internal temperature reaches 150°F, basting the ham with the sauce in the pan every 5 minutes. Do not cover it with foil at this point—you want it to get golden brown. Let the ham stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.
Substitute orange marmalade for the apricot jam.
Omit the brandy and use 1/2 cup rum.
Substitute 1/2 cup Dr Pepper for the rum and brandy.
Add 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper with the spices to the food processor.
Substitute 1/4 cup prepared mustard, preferably a grainy mustard, for the lemon juice and dry mustard.
These tender, light dumplings are made with shrimp and a little peanut sauce, then fried in toasted sesame oil for a crunchy outside that contrasts well with the creamy filling. Serve them with the simple dipping sauce that follows.
MAKES 24 DUMPLINGS (ABOUT 8 APPETIZER OR 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS)
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tablespoons chunky natural peanut butter
1 teaspoon rice vinegar (see page 11)
1/2 teaspoon five spice powder
1/2 pound medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined (see page 101 for tips on how to do this)
24 dumpling wrappers
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil (see page 12)
11/2 cups water
1. Place the scallions, garlic, ginger, peanut butter, rice vinegar, and five spice powder in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse three or four times until well blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, then add the shrimp and pulse several times to chop and blend, until the mixture resembles a very thick, chunky salsa.
2. Fill a custard cup or teacup with water and place it near your work surface. Lay a dumpling wrapper on the work surface. Place about 1 rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of a wrapper. Dip your finger in the water, then run it halfway around the rim of the wrapper. Seal the dumpling, pressing the wet rim against the dry. Starting at the right end and working to the left, crimp the edges closed by folding the sealed edge in 1/4-inch increments over itself, thereby creating the look of a small leather purse. Set aside and continue making the dumplings. (The dumplings can be made in advance—place them on a large baking sheet dusted with cornstarch, seal tightly with plastic wrap, and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.)
3. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil, then place 12 dumplings in the skillet, laying them on their sides. Fry until brown on that side without turning, about 2 minutes. Then pour 3/4 cup water into the skillet, cover, raise the heat to high, and cook for 3 minutes. Uncover the skillet, shake it to make sure the dumplings are not stuck, and continue cooking until the water has completely evaporated and the bottoms are crisp, about 1 more minute. Transfer them to a platter, then make a second batch with the remaining dumplings, following the same method described in this step. When done, serve the dumplings with the Dumpling Dipping Sauce (recipe follows).
3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar (see page 11)
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon chili paste (see page 7)
Mix the ingredients in a small bowl until well combined; serve with the dumplings as a dip.
Peanut butter adds a spiky taste to this traditionally sweet Japanese dish. You can marinate the chicken breasts all day while you’re at work, then pop them under the broiler when you come home for a quick, easy dinner. Have lots of white or brown rice on hand, or serve the glazed breasts with a vinegary salad of lettuce, tomatoes, broccoli florets, and sprouts.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1/2 cup soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup honey (see page 10)
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
2 tablespoons mirin (see page 10)
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 large garlic clove, minced
Eight (4-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1. Whisk the soy sauce, honey, peanut butter, mirin, ginger, and garlic in a shallow glass baking dish until smooth. Add the chicken breasts and toss well to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours, or up to 8 hours, turning occasionally so that the chicken is thoroughly coated in the marinade.
2. Line your broiler pan with aluminum foil to make cleanup easier. Place the pan 4 to 5 inches from the heat source and preheat the broiler for 5 minutes. Place the chicken breasts on the broiler pan and broil until firm to the touch and cooked through, about 10 minutes, turning once. An instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast meat should read 165°F. Transfer the cooked breasts to a serving platter and let stand for 5 minutes before serving to let the juices reincorporate into the meat.
This dish is excellent on the grill, over either direct or indirect heat. If you use direct heat, prepare the grill as suggested by the manufacturer’s instructions, then place the chicken breasts directly over the flame or the coal bed; grill until cooked through and browned, about 8 minutes, turning once. If you use indirect heat, prepare a hot coal bed to one side of the grill or turn on only one section of a gas grill. Place the breasts on the other side of the grill, away from the heat, and close the lid; barbecue for about 15 minutes, turning once.
Substitute an equivalent amount of frozen juice concentrate, such as apple, cranberry, orange, or pineapple, thawed, for the honey.
Here’s a spicy lamb stew, reminiscent of a classic Indian curry, thickened with yogurt and peanut butter—ever so creamy and rich. Frankly, it’s a meal in itself, but you might want to serve it with a cool salad of sliced tomatoes and chopped basil dressed with a little vinaigrette. Have lots of white rice on hand to balance the spicy flavors.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 pound boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 medium onions, halved, each half cut into 3 wedges
2 large garlic cloves, minced
21/2 teaspoons ground ginger
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or less to taste
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 cup dry vermouth, dry white wine, or water
3/4 cup plain yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat free)
1/4 cup creamy natural peanut butter
1/4 cup golden raisins
1. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat, then add the oil followed by the lamb chunks. Cook just until they are browned all over, about 4 minutes, turning often. (You may work in batches, if necessary.) Transfer the lamb to a large platter; set aside.
2. Add the onions to the pot and sauté until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, cook for 10 seconds, then sprinkle in the ginger, coriander, cinnamon, salt, cayenne, and cloves. Stir well, cook about 10 more seconds, then pour in the vermouth, wine, or water to deglaze the pot. Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, then add the meat along with the yogurt, peanut butter, and raisins, stirring until the peanut butter dissolves. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer slowly until the meat is very tender when pierced with a fork, about 40 minutes, stirring often to prevent scorching. Set aside, covered, for 5 minutes off the heat, then serve at once.
You can omit all the dried spices and use one of the curry mixtures on pages 93-94.
Omit the cayenne for a sweeter, milder stew.
Substitute pork stew meat or 1 pound pork loin, cut into 2-inch pieces, for the lamb.
Substitute 1 pound skinless chicken thighs for the lamb—cook just until they are tender, about 20 minutes.
“Satay” actually refers to a culinary technique: skewering bits of meat or vegetables, grilling them, and serving them with a piquant peanut sauce. Truly the street food of Indonesia, it’s served up at all hours by vendors from their kitchens on wheels. At your house, serve it as a main course with steamed green beans, or as an appetizer at your next cocktail party (for ideas about drinks at that party, see our Ultimate Party Drink Book).
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
11/2 pounds sirloin steak, cut into 16 strips (about 1/4 inch thick) against the grain (see Note)
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup creamy natural peanut butter
6 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup rice vinegar (see page 11)
2 teaspoons sugar
Sixteen 10-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 20 minutes
1. Place the steak strips in a large bowl. Pour in 1 tablespoon peanut oil, then add the ground cinnamon, ground coriander, ground ginger, dry mustard, garlic powder, and ground black pepper. Toss well, cover, and place in the refrigerator to marinate at least 1 hour or up to 10 hours.
2. Whisk the peanut butter, soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and the remaining 1/4 cup peanut oil in a medium bowl until smooth; set aside as the dipping sauce for the satay.
3. Take one of the sirloin strips and thread it onto one of the skewers by weaving the skewer back and forth through the meat, starting at one short end and finishing at the other, thereby piercing the piece of meat three or four times with the skewer to keep it solidly attached. Keep the meat close to one end of the skewer so that the other end becomes a long handle for the satay. Set on a platter and repeat with all the skewers and steak strips.
4. Prepare the barbecue grill or preheat the broiler with the broiler pan about 4 inches from the heat source. You may want to wrap the exposed, long handles of the skewers in aluminum foil to protect them from the heat.
5. Grill or broil the meat about 3 minutes, turning once, until medium-rare, juicy, still soft, and very fragrant. (The meat should feel like the lax skin between your thumb and index finger when pressed.) Unwrap the skewers if you’ve guarded them with aluminum foil and serve with the prepared peanut dipping sauce on the side.
NOTE: Cutting meat against the grain is fairly easy once you get the hang of it. Lay the steak on a clean cutting board and run your fingers across it, pressing down a bit. You’ll eventually see which way the fibers are running, usually at an angle in the steak. Cut the steak at a 90-degree angle to these fibers so the pieces stay together in strips.
Of course, you can use chicken strips, peeled and deveined medium shrimp (about 30 per pound—see page 101 for tips on dealing with shrimp), pork loin strips, or even pieces of firm tofu or seitan to make satay. Thread them on the skewers as indicated. You can probably fit 3 shrimp per skewer; bend them open, so they’re uncurved, as it were, as straight as possible, as you thread them onto the skewers; this way, they’ll stay elongated as they cook.
Heat up the dipping sauce by whisking 1/2 to 1 teaspoon chili paste into the peanut dipping sauce.
Serve these skewers over Cucumber Noodles (page 72) for a wonderful lunch or easy dinner.
Peanuts have long been a part of African cooking, thanks mostly to Spanish and Portuguese traders. This vegetarian soup takes advantage of the traditional chile and clove blends that dominate Senegalese cooking.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 medium onions, roughly chopped
1 large sweet potato (about 1 pound), preferably a white sweet potato, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch cubes
2 carrots, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or less to taste
4 cups vegetable broth, preferably no-salt broth
1 cup creamy natural peanut butter
1. Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Pour in the oil, wait a second or two, then add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and golden, about 2 minutes. Add the sweet potato chunks, carrots, and garlic; cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.
2. Sprinkle in the ginger, cloves, salt, if using, and cayenne; cook for 10 seconds, then pour in the vegetable broth. Bring the mixture to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Stir in the peanut butter until smooth. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the sweet potato chunks are tender and the soup is quite thick, about 30 minutes, stirring often to prevent scorching. Cool for 5 minutes off the heat before serving.
Stir 1/2 pound collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, kale, or Swiss chard, all stemmed and roughly chopped, into the soup with the peanut butter.
Serve the stew with African flatbread, Indian na’an, or even flour tortillas—use them to scoop up the stew as you eat it.
Serve the stew accompanied by a cooling mixture of plain yogurt and diced cucumbers.
Szechwan restaurants in New York City have recently started a foodie fad for sizzling-sweet chicken dishes made with zucchini and chili sauce. But they would have an even bigger trend on their hands if they just used peanut butter! Szechwan peppercorns, actually a citrus product, are now banned in the U.S., but you can still find holdout bags in Asian markets if you look carefully. If you can’t find them, sprinkle 1 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorn oil on the dish just before it comes out of the wok.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
3 tablespoons chunky natural peanut butter
3 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons black vinegar (see page 7), or 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons chili paste (see page 7)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
3 scallions, finely chopped
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 11/2-inch pieces
2 small zucchini, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns
2 cups cooked white or brown rice
1. Whisk the peanut butter, soy saucé, black vinegar, chili paste, and sugar in a small bowl until smooth; set aside.
2. Heat a large nonstick wok or nonstick saute pan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, then add the chicken. Stir-fry until almost cooked through and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.
3. Add the zucchini and continue cooking, stirring and tossing constantly, just until the zucchini starts to soften, about 1 minute. Pour in the prepared peanut sauce and the Szechwan peppercorns, if using. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is bubbling and thick; the meat should be completely coated in this brown glaze. Place 1/2 cup cooked rice in each of 4 bowls, divide the stir-fry among them, and serve at once.
Substitute 1 pound medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined (see page 101 for tips on how to do this), or 1 pound sirloin steak, sliced into 1/4-inchthick strips against the grain (see page 111), for the chicken.
Substitute 2 small cucumbers, fleshy parts cut into matchsticks, seeds and pulp discarded, for the zucchini.
Omit the rice and serve the stir-fry over steamed, wilted mustard greens, turnip greens, or spinach.
Since they were traded to Asia over three centuries ago, peanuts have become a boon to local cuisines, but perhaps no more so than to Thai cuisine, known for both its popping heat from chiles and the subtle sweetness of sauces that tame the burn.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch pieces
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon red Thai curry paste (see page 12)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced
1 small red onion, minced (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup coconut milk, preferably light coconut milk (see page 8)
6 tablespoons chunky natural peanut butter
1/4 cup fish sauce (see page 9)
3 tablespoons lime juice
2 cups cooked jasmine rice
1. Place the chicken pieces in a large bowl; toss with the garlic, ginger, and red curry paste. Cover and refrigerate to marinate, at least 1 hour but no more than 10 hours.
2. Heat a large nonstick wok or a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Pour in the oil, then add the chicken and all of the spice marinade it’s been sitting in. Stir-fry just until the chicken browns slightly, just until it loses its raw, pink look, a little less than 2 minutes. Be careful: the volatilized chili oils from the curry paste can burn your eyes and nose. Transfer the chicken to a large plate and set aside.
3. Add the scallions, bell pepper, and onion to the wok or sauté pan; stir-fry until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add the red pepper flakes and stir-fry until aromatic, about 10 seconds. Sprinkle the sugar over the vegetables in the pan, then pour in the coconut milk and bring the sauce to a simmer.
4. Return the chicken to the sauce, then stir in the peanut butter until the sauce is silky and smooth. Stir in the fish sauce and lime juice, bring to a full boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until thick and glistening, about 2 minutes. Serve at once, each portion over 1/2 cup cooked jasmine rice.
Forgo the tortillas and make these Southeast Asian wraps the traditional way: with lettuce leaves. Separate and wash the leaves, then pat them dry and store them surrounded by paper towels in sealed plastic bags in your crisper for up to 48 hours, until you’re ready to make the dish. You can also make the filling up to a day in advance; store it, covered, in the refrigerator but microwave it warm before serving. Simply offer it alongside the lettuce leaves so everyone can roll their own little bundles.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon peanut oil
6 scallions, white and green parts chopped separately and set aside
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 pound lean ground beef
1/4 cup crunchy standard peanut butter
1/4 cup lime juice
3 tablespoons fish sauce (see page 9)
1 teaspoon chili paste (see page 7)
5 radishes, roughly chopped
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
1/4 cup packed fresh mint leaves, chopped
2 large heads Boston lettuce, leaves washed and separated (about 32 leaves)
1. Heat a large nonstick skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Pour in the peanut oil, wait for a few seconds, then add the chopped white parts of the scallion. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, just to soften, then add 1 tablespoon of the ginger and the garlic. Stir-fry for 15 seconds before crumbling in the ground beef. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the meat is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer this mixture to a large bowl and cool for 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the peanut butter, lime juice, fish sauce, chili paste, and the remaining 2 teaspoons minced ginger in a small bowl until smooth.
3. Once the meat mixture has cooled slightly, stir in the prepared peanut butter sauce as well as the radishes, cilantro, and mint.
4. To serve, place about 2 tablespoons of this filling in a lettuce leaf, then roll it closed and enjoy.
Omit the Boston lettuce and use at least 4 heads Belgian endive; spoon a teaspoon or so of the mixture into each of the spears for an elegant appetizer.
Use the filling as a dip much like a Brazilian peccadillo. Use tortilla chips to scoop it up.