Batik is one of the most prominent expressions of cultural identity in Indonesia. Nowhere in the world has the art of batik evolved into such high standards, fine-tuned over the centuries under the patronage of the Javanese royal courts. Today, the making and wearing of batik remains a source of national pride, a vital and unifying medium found in every conceivable form: sarong, dress, shirt, scarf, table-cover, wall hangings and more.
The Indonesian word batik (from tik, meaning dot) was originally a term used to describe the dye-resist technique; today, the term is used for both the process and the decorated fabric. The value of each piece is determined by the method of creation; the most highly prized and expensive is the labour-intensive batik tulis (literally ‘to write’) using a canting tool. The best pieces are created by small cottage-industry workshops in Java. A cheaper alternative is the block-printed batik, produced using a metal printing stamp called cap. Batik cetak (printed batik) is mass-produced screen-printed fabric imitating traditional designs.
Each area of Java has its own unique style of batik, which communicates ethnic identity and social status, while the folds of the kain panjang (waistcloth) convey one’s gender. Special motifs with symbolic meanings, once reserved for the royal courts of Java, are today worn by all for ceremonies such as weddings, circumcisions, childbirth and burials.
The motifs created on the north coast of Java and Madura are known as pesisir batik. As exemplified by the Cirebon batik, pictured, foreign influence through maritime trade brought changes to the traditional Javanese motifs, resulting in brighter colours and new designs.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Cultural treasures