A
Accommodation
In Bali and the major business centres in Java, hotels range from five- to one-star and below, catering to every budget and taste. Jakarta and Bali’s luxury hotels are among the best in the world and feature first-class service and facilities. Apart from the international five-star chains such as Hyatt, Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton, there are also high-quality local chains and numerous boutique properties. In Surabaya, Jojga and other cities there are also heritage properties, while in Kalimantan overnights in Dayak longhouses can be arranged.
In provincial and regency capitals there are always two- and three-star hotels where government workers and business travellers stay, but in more remote regions anticipate only the basics, and take heart that you can delight in Indonesian hospitality.
Every area of this vast country has something special to offer, and so the biggest choice you need to make about where to stay (other than price) is what you came to experience. For example, surfers and divers will want to be near the sea and nature-lovers near forests, but there are many beaches and jungles here. We suggest reading the Places chapters first to get a feel for what each region has to offer, and then look at the listings below as a step forward in making your decision.
Prices and Bookings
Throughout Indonesia, advance reservations are recommended during the peak June–August and Christmas–New Year periods. Also be aware that prices are usually higher at these times or surcharges are added. In addition, during Indonesian public holidays and school breaks (June–July), all recreation areas plus Bali and Jogja are crowded with domestic travellers.
Look for better rates during ‘low’ (non-peak) season. In small establishments, it is perfectly acceptable to ask for a discount when they are not fully booked. Many larger hotels have special internet rates. When travelling from island to island within Indonesia, local travel agents can often get the best rates on two- and three-star hotels by booking with hotels they frequently do business with.
There is a government tax of 11 percent, which is charged by all but small establishments, and the larger ones also usually include a 10 percent service tax (in lieu of tipping).
Many of the hotels offer a broad choice. Inexpensive and moderately priced hotels may have rooms without air-conditioning and hot water for budget travellers as well as rooms with all amenities, termed ‘VIP’. Moderately priced and expensive hotels may also have ‘presidential suites’ or private villas. Check with individual hotels for current rates during the time of your visit.
Addresses
It can be difficult for visitors to find addresses in Indonesia, as villages often flow into one another with no apparent boundary demarcations in sight, particularly in Bali. To add to the confusion, many of the street names have changed, but some establishments continue to use the old forms while others have switched to the new.
B
Budgeting for your trip
How much you’ll spend depends largely on whether you are staying in a large city or a tourist destination – where options are greater and prices are higher – or a remote area; how many islands you plan to visit – air fare being a rather large expense – and how ardently you shop.
Accommodation can cost per night from US$15 in budget establishments to US$30-70 for a standard room and all the way up to thousands of dollars for villas and fancy resorts.
Anything imported is expensive, and this is most noticeable in terms of food and drinks. A canned local beer (Bintang) costs about US$1.50, with large bottles containing two servings around US$2.50, but imported beers are roughly double that. Likewise, local wines (such as Bali-produced Hatten) sell for about US$20 per bottle, and the price of imported wines can be at least double, and often much more. Simple Indonesian food can be had for as little as US$2.50 almost anywhere, a moderately priced meal for around US$6 (without drinks), and the sky is the limit for fine dining, averaging US$30–40. Of course, prices in luxury resorts will be much higher.
Taxis are relatively cheap, for example the journey from Jakarta’s airport to town costs about US$15, but local transport is cheaper. The Damri Airport shuttle bus costs around US$3 for the same journey. A Transjakarta bus ticket is US$3.50 one-way.
Admission charges are another consideration and range from a small donation at Balinese temples to US$3 for most museums and up to US$15 for theme parks.
Business Hours
In most places, government offices are generally open from Monday to Thursday, 8am–3pm, and close at 11.30am on Friday. On Saturday, they close at around 2pm. Business offices are open from Monday to Friday, 8 or 9am until 4 or 5pm. A few companies work on Saturday mornings as well. Banks are open 8am–3pm on weekdays, but in Jakarta some have branches in shopping malls that are open at weekends.
Business Travellers
Big hotels in cities and towns have conference rooms and business centres that are internet- and email-friendly, can send and receive faxes, make appointments and handle typing, photocopy and other administrative chores. In larger cities, internet and email are available. Wi-fi ‘hotspots’ are easily found in hotels, cafés and malls.
Business etiquette
The correct protocol is of the utmost importance when doing business in Indonesia. Apprise yourself of the rules by reading books on the subject. Here are a few pointers.
The terms Bapak or Pak (‘Sir’) and Ibu (‘Madam’), are universally applicable in Indonesia and used to address business counterparts. Both men and women shake hands on introduction. If drinks are served, don’t reach for yours until your host has gestured for you to do so. Observe the formalities until your Indonesian counterpart takes the lead to be more relaxed. At first meetings, business may not be discussed at all, paving the way for subsequent consultations.
Meetings usually begin with the conversation centring on social or predictable topics. Specific or personal enquiries are avoided. The best way to air a grievance is to talk politely around the subject until your business partner sees your point of view. Do not be too direct; rather than saying ‘no’ directly, most Indonesians would say ‘belum’, meaning ‘not yet’. Consensus is fundamental to all relationships. Business with Indonesians requires endurance, and most negotiations on deals will take far longer than hoped or planned.
C
Children
All Indonesians love children. Reliable babysitters are available at all major hotels, and even small inn owners are happy to look after youngsters. Many hotels have kids’ clubs and children’s programmes, and shopping malls in large cities often provide pushchairs. Disposable nappies and baby food are scarce outside major cities.
Climate
Indonesia’s climate is fairly even all year round, roughly divided into two seasons, wet and dry. The northeast monsoon brings drenching rain to the western islands roughly between November and April, and the tropical sun and the oceans combine to produce continuously high humidity (75–100 percent) everywhere. The dry season kicks in from May to October when high humidity levels are lessened by the cool dry air blowing in from the Australian land mass in the west. The further east you move, the shorter the rainy season is, making the dry season longer.
The transitional period between the two seasons alternates between sun-filled days and occasional thunderstorms. Even amid the wet season, temperatures range from 21–33ºC (70–90ºF), except at higher altitudes, which can be much cooler, and warm clothes are required. The heaviest rainfalls are usually in December, January and February. The seas surrounding the eastern islands can be very rough during these months.
Crime and Safety
Sexual assault, food and drink spiking, assault and robbery against foreigners have occurred in Indonesia, including around popular tourist locations in Bali. As with everywhere, watch out for pickpockets in crowded areas, thieves in cheap hotels, and the occasional scam artist. Take the usual precautions. Don’t leave valuables unattended, and be careful of your purse, wallet and backpacks in crowded areas. Don’t lend money if you expect it to be returned. Report any theft immediately to police or security officers. (Without a police report, new passports and travel documents are difficult to obtain.) In some tourist areas, such as Jakarta, Jogja and Bali, there are English-speaking ‘tourist police’ in specially marked uniforms and cars who are trained to handle foreigners’ questions and lend assistance.
Exercise caution by carrying photocopies of your passport, tickets and travel documents, and keep the originals in hotel safes. Tourists may also be exposed to scams and credit card/ATM fraud. There has been an increase in reports of violent crime in Bali, including muggings in the Kuta area. Be aware of your surroundings and conscious of the potential risks of crime.
All narcotics are illegal in Indonesia and prosecution means a long prison term – perhaps even death – and/or huge fines.
In January 2015, the US Government warned of a potential threat against US-associated hotels and banks in Surabaya. Terrorist groups remain active throughout Indonesia despite police disruptions. Police continue to conduct operations against these groups and have stated publicly that terrorist suspects remaining at large may seek to attack Western targets. At the time of writing, some country’s governments’ advice is to reconsider your need to travel to Central Sulawesi, Papua and West Papua provinces, where additional safety and security risks exist.
Indonesia is subject to a range of natural disasters including volcanoes, earthquakes, tsunamis and floods. You should pay close attention to emergency procedures and monitor local warnings.
D
Disabled travellers
There is little awareness in Indonesia for the special needs of the disabled, and anyone looking other than ‘normal’ will certainly draw stares, maybe even laughter, which camouflages embarrassment. Wheelchair ramps and van lifts are not the norm, though large international chains may have facilities. Ask your tour operator in advance for extra assistance.
E
Eating out in Indonesia
The staple for the majority of Indonesians is rice, although in the eastern islands corn, sago, cassava or sweet potatoes dominate, and in smaller towns and villages that’s what you’ll be served. Coconut milk and hot chilli peppers are popular cooking ingredients nationwide. Dishes range from very spicy meat, fish and vegetables, such as the Padang food found everywhere in restaurants called Rumah Makan Padang or Rumah Makan Minang, to those that are quite sweet, for instance Jogja’s speciality, gudeg. Almost all come with steamed white rice (nasi puti). The most popular dishes among visitors are nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goring (fried noodles), sate or satay (grilled meat or chicken on skewers) and gado-gado (cold, steamed vegetables served with a peanut sauce). Nasi campur is a good choice for travellers because it is a complete meal, including rice, a vegetable and a piece of meat, usually chicken.
Chinese restaurants are found in almost every town and offer less spicy food and vegetarian dishes. In the main tourist centres and resorts, many restaurants cater for visitors and serve a wide variety of cuisines, including Western. All cities have American fast-food outlets such as KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken), and larger ones have McDonald’s and Pizza Hut.
Drinks
While the local beer, Bintang, is reasonably priced, imported beers, cocktails and wine (only available in larger cities) are expensive and can equal the price of a meal. Bottled drinking water can be purchased everywhere. The brand is preferred, and in fact the name is synonymous with mineral water. In tourist-centre restaurants, free room-temperature or cold water may be poured from a pitcher at the table (air putih), which has been filled from a large mineral water container in the kitchen, saving you the cost (and environmental waste) of buying bottled water. If in doubt, just ask. In cheaper establishments, air putih may be served hot in a glass or in a thermos, indicating that it has been boiled and is safe to drink.
Hygiene and Etiquette
It is recommended to avoid ice served in warungs (roadside food stalls), since the origin of the water used to make it is unknown; however, in resorts catering to tourists purified water is used in ice-making, so is acceptable. Also be aware that the hygienic standards of warungs and street vendors are usually not what Westerners are accustomed to. Plates and cutlery are not washed with hot water and food may not be refrigerated until cooked. Proceed with caution. If visiting someone’s home, for example in a village, you will almost always be offered a drink and a snack. It is impolite to refuse, so if unsure of cleanliness, stick with coffee or tea (which have been boiled), cooked food or fresh fruit.
Electricity
Electricity is usually 220V to 240V AC in Indonesia. Power failures are common and voltage fluctuates considerably, so using a stabiliser is advised. Wall plugs are the standard Western European variety: two round pins. International hotels may have adaptors for guests to use.
Embassies and consulates
Embassies are found only in Jakarta. In Bali, Medan (Sumatra), Jogja (Java) and Surabaya (Java), a few countries maintain small consular offices. Only addresses in Jakarta and Bali are given here.
Jakarta
(Telephone area code 021)
Australia: Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. 15–16; tel: 2550 5555; www.indonesia.embassy.gov.au.
Canada: Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 29, World Trade Center 6th floor; tel: 2550 7800; www.canadainternational.gc.ca.
New Zealand: Sentral Senayan 2, Floor 10, Jl. Asia Afrika, No. 8; tel: 2995 5800; www.nzembassy.com/indonesia.
Singapore: Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. X-4, No. 2, Kuningan; tel: 2995 0400; www.mfa.gov.sg/jkt.
United Kingdom: Jl. Patra Kuningan Raya Blok L5-6; tel: 2356 5200; www.ukinindonesia.fco.gov.uk.
United States: Jl. Medan Merdeka Selatan, No. 5, Jakarta Pusat; tel: 3435 9000.
Bali
(Telephone area code 0361)
Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Ireland and Papua New Guinea: Jl. Tantular, No. 32, Renon; tel: 241 118; www.dfat.gov.au.
France: Jl. Mertasari, Gang II, No. 8, Sanur; tel: 285 485.
Germany: Jl. Pantai Karang, No. 17, Sanur; tel: 288 535.
Italy: Lotus Enterprise Bldg, Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran; tel: 701 005.
Spain: Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Br. Lungsiakan, Kedewatan, Ubud; tel: 975 736.
United Kingdom: Jl. Tirta Nadi, No. 20, Sanur; tel: 270-601
United States (Consular): Jl. Hayam Wuruk, No. 310, Denpasar; tel: 233 605; http://surabaya.usconsulate.gov/bali2.html.
Entry regulations
Each adult is permitted to bring a maximum of 1 litre of alcoholic beverages, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 100 grammes of tobacco, and a reasonable quantity of perfume. Prohibited from entry are the following: narcotics, arms and ammunition, pornography and fresh fruit. There is no restriction on import and export of foreign currencies and travellers’ cheques; however, import or export of Indonesian currency exceeding Rp 100,000,000 is prohibited. It is also prohibited to import or export products made from endangered species.
Visas and Passports
All travellers to Indonesia must be in possession of a passport valid for at least six months after arrival and tickets proving onward passage. Some immigration officials will require six blank passport pages, so it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Visitors from countries not approved as either visa-free or eligible for visa-on-arrival must obtain a 30-day tourist visa from their local Indonesian embassy or consulate before entering Indonesia.
Visa-free: Visitors from the following 12 countries automatically receive a 30-day visa permit free upon arrival in Indonesia: Brunei, Chile, Ecuador, Hong Kong SAR, Macau SAR, Malaysia, Morocco, Peru, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.
Visa-on-arrival: Regulations are constantly changing. At press time, 62 countries have been approved for visa-on-arrival (VOA), including Australia, Austria, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Russia, South Africa, Sweden, UK and USA. Visa free entry is only available at 20 international airports, including: Bali (DPS), Jakarta (CGK), Medan (KNO), Surabaya (SUR) and Batam (BTH). and 23 seaports. Currently the fee is US$15 for 7 days or US$35 for 30 days. It is recommended that you check with your local Indonesian embassy or consulate in advance of travelling for current regulations.
The visa-on-arrival can be extended once for a maximum 30 days and cannot be converted into a different visa. The only way to stay longer in Indonesia than your visa allows is to leave the country and come back in again, the nearest place being Singapore. Alternatively, apply for a 60-day visa at an Indonesian embassy or consulate before arriving in Indonesia.
Travel permits
A surat jalan (travel permit) is required for visits to the interior of Papua. After landing in Sentani, hire a car at the airport and go directly to the police station in Jayapura (a 45-minute drive), where travel permits are processed. Have on hand 2–4 passport-sized photos (depending on the number of places you plan to visit), photocopies of your passport, and your embarkation card. (Expatriate residents need a copy of their KITAS instead of the embarkation card.)
When applying for the surat jalan, be certain to list all of the places you plan to visit in the interior – Baliem Valley, Asmat, Wasur, for example – and make photocopies of it. You will have to leave one copy at each area visited, as police checkpoints often ask for it, even in non-restricted areas.
Permits are also required to enter all national parks. In some parks there is an officer on the premises, but in others permits must be obtained prior to arrival. Check locally for regulations before visiting any national park.
Etiquette
Indonesians are remarkably friendly and courteous, but they are also staunchly conservative. Travellers who observe a few basic rules of etiquette will be assured of a warm welcome.
Using the left hand to give or to receive anything is taboo (the left hand is reserved for hygiene acts), as is pointing or crooking a finger to call someone.
Don’t make any offers to purchase unless you intend to buy. When bargaining, start at half the asking price and then work out a compromise. Rp 1,000 can mean the difference of a day’s meal, so avoid quibbling over small sums. Many Indonesians are still very poor, so be prudent and don’t display large sums of money.
Begging is not a tradition. However, a small contribution at a temple, a village or a cultural conservation centre is appropriate and will be appreciated.
Hands on the hips indicates defiance or arrogance, especially when also standing with legs apart.
When sitting, feet should be tucked away, not propped up with the soles facing another person.
When visiting mosques and other places of worship, dress modestly and remove shoes.
F
Festivals
Indonesians love to gather with family and friends to celebrate practically any occasion, and these events promise entertainment for everyone. Many festivals and ceremonies are based on religious or cultural calendars, meaning the dates change every year. Enquire upon arrival if there are any events being held in your area, and you might get lucky.
Cultural festivals
Chinese New Year: Many cities host elaborate festivals to celebrate Chinese New Year (Feb/Mar). In Manado (Sulawesi) the Toa Peh Kong Festival, a large procession including horses, decorated floats and children in Chinese costumes, begins at a Confucian temple if the gods grant permission through a ritual.
Dayak Erau Festival (Kalimantan): Held throughout the region, the best known is in Kutai Kartanegara, a showcase for Dayak cultural arts, dances and handicrafts. Scheduling is based on auspicious dates chosen by traditional leaders.
Pasola (Sumba): A mock-battle, usually held Feb/Mar, at a date determined by the annual migration of nyale sea worms. ‘Warriors’ on horseback try to unseat their opponents, and any blood spilled is believed to fertilise the soil and benefit the next harvest. Held in three areas: West Sumba’s Wanakola and Kodi districts, and Waingapu in East Sumba. On Mandalika beach, Lombok and in Savu similar rituals are held.
Lake Sentani Festival (Papua): Usually in June, local dancers perform on floating dugout canoes; there are drum competitions, lake tours, fireworks, and bark-painting and hair-weaving contests.
Lake Toba Festival (Sumatra): June or July on Samosir island, this festival features Batak art, cultural performances, boat and horse races, and handicrafts exhibitions.
Labuhan (Java): In Jogja, every 25 Aug there is a procession to Parangkusumo beach where offerings are made to Nyi Roro Kidul, Queen of the Southern Sea. Similar ceremonies are held at Gunung Merapi, Gunung Bromo and Gunung Lawu, and throughout the country to give thanks for successful harvests or catches and to ask blessings for the coming season.
Madura Bull Races (Java): Races are held from Sep to Nov in East Java and in Madura showcasing the strength and speed of prized bulls. In Oct in Pamekasan, the Sapi Sono Festival is held to name the most ‘beautiful’ buffalo in the region.
Waisak Day (Java): Thousands of Buddhists from throughout Asia join a procession from Mendut temple to Borobudur to meditate in honour of the Day of Enlightenment (June/July), the biggest day on the Buddhist calendar.
Easter (Flores): Laruntuka’s Easter celebrations draw devotees by the hundreds from nearby islands. On Good Friday, the ceremony begins with a procession through town led by shrouded bearers of Christ’s coffin and the bathing of a Virgin Mary statue in a tradition dating back to Portuguese ancestors.
Sports festivals
Many sporting events are held during school holidays (June/July), at the height of the tourist season.
Raja Ampat Marine Festival (Papua): Promotes the beauty of culture, adventure and nature, held in Waisai in May. Activities include underwater orientation and photo competitions, parades, dragon-boat races and beach sports.
Indonesian Surfing Championship (Seminyak, Bali): June events include Pro, Junior, Women’s, Master and Longboard competitions. Local and international surfers participate in a one-week championship competition and surfing film festival (www.isctour.com).
Bali International Triathlon: Held every June, Olympic and sprint-distance events, team relays and fun runs. Balinese bicycle blessing ceremony; post-race live music and beach party (www.balitriathlon.com).
Tour de Singkrak (Sumatra): An annual cycle race that draws participants from throughout Asia and Europe begins in Padang and traverses 743.5km (462 miles), ending at Lake Singakaral. Held in June or July.
International Kite Festival (Bali): Part of the Sanur Village Festival (June/July). Teams from Indonesia and abroad fly enormous kites up to 10 metres (33ft) long – taking as many as five men to launch – and compete in various divisions, including traditional Balinese and contemporary kite designs.
Darwin–Ambon Yacht Race: Held annually since 2007 (July–August) and attracting over 100 boats, the Darwin–Ambon Yacht Race (www.darwinambonrace.com.au) also inspires other marine festivals en route, such as Sail Banda and Sail Wakatobi, with game-fishing competitions, beach sports, diving tournaments and conferences.
August celebrations
Beginning the first week in August in every village, town and city, competitions and games are held in celebration of Indonesia’s Independence Day on 17 Aug, and visitors are always welcome. Two spectacular ones are:
Sanur Village Festival (Bali): An annual celebration held in July–August, drawing hundreds of locals and tourists to its many events. A four-day feast of contests includes water sports and an international kite-flying competition, music, dance and food, food, food. A great opportunity to mingle with the local people, hear some great music and eat some really good food (www.gotosanur.com).
Baliem Valley Festival (Papua): Fabulous mock battles held in August between tribes accompanied by traditional dance, music and art exhibitions and a pig feast.
G
Gay and lesbian travellers
Although homosexuals are broadly accepted in Indonesia, overt displays of affection are not. Such behaviour is considered distasteful – whether exhibited by homosexuals or heterosexuals. Indonesians, however, are wont to show open affection among one’s own sex rather than between the sexes. It is common, for instance, to see two men hugging or holding hands, or girls walking with hands intertwined.
In Java and Bali there are gay communities and establishments that cater for them. Utopia, the Asian Gay & Lesbian Resources Centre (www.utopia-asia.com), has excellent information on gay travel in Indonesia as well as other Asian countries.
Health and medical care
The health risks when travelling in a tropical country such as Indonesia depend greatly on how you choose to travel and where you are going to go. Nonetheless, you should not travel to Indonesia without comprehensive medical insurance.
Yellow fever vaccinations are required if arriving within six days of leaving or passing through an infected area. Check with your home physician regarding vaccinations for other ailments like typhoid, cholera and hepatitis A and B.
Diarrhoea and stomach upsets may be a problem, often a reaction to a change in food and environment. Tablets such as Lomotil and Imodium are invaluable, but offer only a temporary solution, best taken only when toilet facilities are lacking. A fever accompanying cramps and diarrhoea may require doctor-prescribed antibiotics.
Probably more stomach upsets are due to dehydration than anything else, as most people simply don’t drink enough water. Drink more than you think you need, particularly if taking part in outdoor activities. Take precautions against the sun and the heat. Wear a hat as protection. Tanning oils and creams are expensive in Indonesia and difficult to find outside the big cities. Bring them from home.
Malaria is carried by night-biting mosquitoes. Prophylactics are increasingly questionable; strains are developing in Southeast Asia that are resistant to most medications; some, like Larium, can cause dizziness, stomach upset, even hallucinations. Before consulting a physician, first determine if you will be travelling in a malaria-infected area (not all of Indonesia is). Upon arrival, minimise contact with mosquitoes by using repellent; and as mosquitoes are most active around dawn and dusk, wear long-sleeved shirts and long trousers during those times. Sleep under a mosquito net in infected areas. All bites, cuts and abrasions can easily become infected in the tropics; treat them immediately.
Dengue fever, carried by daytime mosquitoes, is far more prevalent in Indonesia than malaria. There is no prophylactic; take the precautions described above if travelling in an infected area.
All water must be made safe before consumption. Bottled purified water is readily available in even the smallest villages, but if caught in a bind, bringing water to a rolling boil for 20 minutes is an effective method of sterilisation. All fruit should be peeled before eaten; avoid raw vegetables.
AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at city apotik (pharmacies), supermarkets and mini-marts.
Most drugs are available at pharmacies (apotik) in major cities without prescription, but if you need special medication, bring adequate supplies with you. International-standard medical treatment and specialist care is available in Jakarta and Bali at hospitals and clinics.
Jakarta
The following clinics are of international standard and are popular with expatriates living in Indonesia. Both have staff who can handle problems in English.
SOS Medika (AEA International Clinic): Jl. Puri Sakti, No. 10, Cipete, Jakarta; tel: 021-750 6001 (24-hour emergency).
MMC (Metropolitan Medical Center): Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. C 20–21; tel: 021-520 3435; www.rsmmc.co.id.
Bali
Bali International Medical Centre (BIMC): Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, No. 100X, Kuta; tel: 0361-761 263; www.bimcbali.com. Provides 24-hour general medical treatment and emergency evacuation, under supervision by Australian, English, American, New Zealand, Japanese and Indonesian medical personnel.
International SOS Medika, Bali Clinic: Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, No. 505X, Kuta, tel: 0361-720 100; www.internationalsos.com. Provides international-standard medical care, including specialist and ambulance services. Routine care, including dental and psychological, and emergency care 24 hours a day.
I
Internet
Most internet cafés have now become Wi-fi-friendly ‘hotspots’, handy if you have a laptop or smartphone. Wi-fi is also available in most hotels. For those with no laptop, large hotels usually have business centres where guests can log on; if not, ask at the front desk for directions to the nearest internet café.
M
Media
The Jakarta Post is the major English-language newspaper. In addition, a few international newspapers – English-language and others – are available at the newsstands of large hotels and major airports. Tempo magazine is published in Indonesian and in English and is a good source of political and business news.
Television is available everywhere, even in the most remote locations. Larger hotels have cable TV, so in addition to Indonesian channels, they receive CNN, MTV, at least one sports and one movie channel.
Money
Rupiah (Rp) come in banknote denominations of 100,000; 50,000; 20,000; 10,000; 5,000; 2,000 and 1,000. Coins come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100 and 50 rupiah.
Change is often not available in smaller shops. Carry a variety of coins and small notes, especially when travelling outside cities.
Changing money
Bring only new notes (no coins), as practically no one will change dirty or marred bank notes. The best exchange rate is usually obtained at money-changers, found at the airports of all major cities. Hotels usually offer a lower rate, and banks often offer even worse rates.
Particularly in Bali, where illegal money-changers know every scam in the book, stick to those advertising themselves as ‘Authorised’. Count your money before leaving the counter and get a receipt. It is advisable to convert most of your money in the cities before moving towards the interior. Leftover rupiah notes are easily changed back into foreign currency at departure.
Credit cards
MasterCard and Visa are accepted in most large hotels and shops, but don’t count on using them in the hinterland. Diner’s Club and American Express are less prevalent. Don’t be surprised if an additional 3–5 percent ‘handling charge’ is added to the bill; this is an accepted practice.
ATMs
ATMs are found everywhere in the larger cities. Look for those affiliated with your international ATM network.
Tipping
Major hotels add a 10 percent service charge to bills. If it is not included in upmarket restaurants, a tip of 5–10 percent is appropriate if the service has been satisfactory.
In small-town eateries, tipping is not expected. Airport and hotel porterage is Rp 5,000 per piece. Tipping taxi and hired-car drivers is not mandatory, but rounding up the fare to the nearest Rp 1,000 is standard. However, if you are travelling with a hired-car driver and/or a guide, a tip is a good idea.
P
Photography
Most Indonesians love to be photographed, especially if they have children, but it’s still nice to ask before shooting. Practically everyone understands ‘Foto?’ Just point at the camera and, if you get a nod or a smile, click away. Older people may be shy; if they indicate ‘no’, politely move on. It isn’t polite to photograph people praying.
Digital-photo shops are abundant in cities; convenient for downloading photos from camera to USB devices.
Postal services
There are post offices in every major town and village. Hours are generally as follows: from Monday to Thursday 8am–2pm; Friday 8am–noon; and Saturday 8am–1pm.
S
Smoking
Large cities are making an effort to ban smoking in public places. Look for smoking rooms in airports, and enquire if smoking is permitted in special sections of restaurants and hotels.
T
Telecommunications
The telephone service is rapidly being modernised and overhauled throughout the country, meaning telephone numbers and area codes change frequently. If a number listed in this guide doesn’t work, it has probably been upgraded.
Establishments such as hotels may have several telephone numbers, which may come in five to eight digits. Thus, listings never seem to match. Major hotels offer International Direct Dial (IDD). Dial 001, 007, 008 and 017 for an international line. Indonesia’s cellular phone system is GSM. Prepaid SIM cards that can be inserted into your phone allow you to make local and international calls at lower prices than landline calls. These can be purchased in varying amounts at many kiosks and supermarkets in Indonesia’s towns and cities.
Area codes
Indonesia: 62
Java
Bandung: 022
Jakarta: 021
Yogyakarta (Jogja): 0274
Surakarta (Solo): 0271
Semarang: 024
Surabaya: 031
Malang: 0341
Sumatra
Medan: 061
Banda Aceh: 0651
Prapat, Samosir: 0625
Padang: 0751
Bukittinggi: 0752
Palembang: 0711
Bengkulu: 0736
Bandar Lampung: 0721
Batam: 0778
Bintan: 0770
Bali
Denpasar, Badung, Tabanan: 0361
Gianyar, Ubud: 0361
Kuta, Sanur, Nusa Dua: 0361
Buleleng, Singaraja, Lovina: 0362
Amlapura (Karangasem): 0363
Candidasa: 0363
Jembrana: 0365
Semarapura (Klungkung): 0366
Bangli, Kintamani: 0366
Bedugul: 0368
Lombok: 0370
Sumbawa
Sumbawa Besar: 0371
Bima: 0374
Flores
Labuhanbajo: 0385
Maumere: 0382
Ende: 0381
Sumba: 0387
Timor: 0380
Kalimantan
Balikpapan: 0542
Samarinda: 0541
Banjarmasin: 0511
Palangkaraya: 0536
Pontianak: 0561
Sulawesi
Makassar (Ujung Padang): 0411
Rantepao: 0423
Palu: 0451
Manado: 0431
Maluku
Ambon: 0911
Bandaneira: 0910
Ternate, Tidore: 0921
Papua
Jayapura: 0967
Wamena: 0969
Biak: 0981
Note: The telecommunications system in Jakarta has reached its limit for 6- and 7-digit numbers. All new telephone numbers have 8 digits. Therefore, it’s not unusual for some businesses to have 6-, 7- and 8-digit numbers if they have added new telephone lines over the years.
Time zones
Indonesia is divided into three time zones following provincial boundaries:
Waktu Indonesia Barat (WIB, Western Indonesia Standard Time): Sumatra, Java, western half of Kalimantan. UTC +7 of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
Waktu Indonesia Tengah (WITA, Central Indonesia Standard Time): Eastern half of Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Bali, Nusa Tenggara. UTC +8.
Waktu Indonesia Timur (WIT, Eastern Indonesia Standard Time): Papua, Maluku. UTC +9.
Daylight saving time is never observed in Indonesia.
During non-daylight saving time in other countries:
At noon in Western Indonesia (WIB), it’s 0.00 (midnight) the previous day in New York (ie New York is 12 hours behind Jakarta) and 5am on the same day in London (ie London is 7 hours behind Jakarta).
At noon in Central Indonesia (WITA), it’s 11pm the previous day in New York (ie New York is 13 hours behind Denpasar) and 4am the same day in London (ie London is 8 hours behind Denpasar).
At noon in Eastern Indonesia (WIT), it’s 10pm on the previous day in New York (ie New York is 14 hours behind Jayapura) and 3am on the same day in London (ie London is 9 hours behind Jayapura.
Toilets
Most places catering to tourists have at least one Western toilet. In shopping malls, there is often an attendant who collects a small fee (from Rp 500 up to 5,000) to pay for keeping toilets clean. Otherwise, and in remote areas, ‘squat’ toilets are the norm. Toilet tissue is often not available, as most Indonesians clean themselves with the water that’s provided. If you prefer not to go native, bring your own tissue and dispose of it in the bin next to the toilet, if there is one.
Tourist Information
While there is plenty of information about Indonesia on the web, much of it is conflicting and a lot of it is just plain wrong. Unfortunately, most of the provincial government tourist information websites are either in Bahasa Indonesia only or have not been updated in several years. Also shown below are current websites in English for reliable tourist information, usually posted by local tourism promotion boards comprising tourist-related businesses or travel agencies. Some of them also display languages other than English.
Note that the provincial tourist information offices are difficult to reach by telephone and they close at odd hours, ie for lunch, at weekends and during public holidays. The best bet is to drop by their offices before noon on a weekday.
Java
Jakarta
Ministry of Culture and Tourism: Gedung Sapta Pesona, Jl. Medan Merdeka Barat, No. 17; tel: 021-383 8565; www.indonesia.travel.
Jakarta City Government Tourism and Culture Office: Jl. Kuningan Barat, No. 2; tel: 021-520 5455, 520 5454.
PHKA (Forest Protection & Nature Conservation): Manggala Wanabakti Building Blok I, 8th Floor, Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto; tel: 021-573- 4818. Information about permits for Indonesia’s national parks.
Visitor Information Centre: Jakarta Theatre Bldg (across from Sarinah), Jl. M.H. Thamrin; tel: 021-315 4094.
Bandung
For useful tourist information about Bandung, visit www.visitbandung.net.
Banten Tourism Office: Jl. Syech Nawawi, Palima Serang,; tel: 0254-267 060.
West Java Provincial Tourist Office: Jl. R.E. Martadinata, No. 209, Bandung; tel: 022-727 1385, 727 3209.
Cirebon
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Brigien Darsono, No. 5; tel: 0231-208 856.
Solo
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Wisata Menanggal; tel: 031-853 1814/1816/1820/1821.
Surabaya
Tourist Information Centre: Balai Pemuda, Jl. Gubernur Suryo, No. 15; tel: 031-5340 4444.
Tourist Information Centre: House of Sampoerna, Taman Sampoerna, No. 6; tel: 031-353 9000; www.houseofsampoerna.museum; Tue–Sun 9am–10pm.
For useful information about East Java, visit:
Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta Tourism Office: Jl Malioboro, No. 56; tel: 0274-587 486.
For Jogja tourism information, visit www.yogyes.com.
Sumatra
Bandar Lampung
Lampung Tourism Office: Jl. Jend. Sudirman, No. 2, Bandar Lampung; tel: 0721-261 430.
Bengkulu
Bengkulu Tourism Office: Jl. P. Tendean, No. 17, Bengkulu; tel: 0736-21272.
Medan
North Sumatra Tourism Office: Jl. Jend. A. Yani, No. 107, Medan; tel: 061-453 8101.
Padang
West Sumatra Tourism Office: Jl. Khatib Sulaiman, No. 7, Padang; tel: 0751-705 5711.
Palembang
South Sumatra Tourism Office: Jl. Demang Lebar Daun, Kav. IX, Palembang; tel: 0711-356 661, 311 345, 357 348.
Riau
Riau Tourism Office: Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 200, Pekanbaru; tel: 0761-31452, 40356.
For useful Sumatra tourist information, also visit: www.medanku.com.
Bali
Denpasar
Denpasar Government Tourist Office: Jl. Surapati, No. 7, Denpasar; tel: 0361-231 422.
Kuta
Indonesia Tourist Information Center: Jl. Raya Kuta, No. 2, Kuta; tel: 0361-766 181, 0361-766 184; www.indonesiatic.com
Legian
Bali Tourist Information: Century Plaza, Jl. Bensari, No. 7, Legian; tel: 0361-754 092.
Legian Tourist Information: Jl. Legian, No. 37; tel: 0361-755 424.
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. S. Parman Niti Mandala, Renon; tel: 0361-222 387.
Singaraja
Singaraja Tourist Information Office: Jl. Gajah Mada, No. 117; tel: 0362 25141.
Ubud
Ubud Tourist Information Service: Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud; tel: 0361-973 285.
Helpful tourist information can also be found at www.balicalendar.com, www.bali-tourism-board.com, www.karangasemtourism.com, www.godivingbali.com.
Nusa Tenggara
Flores
Flores DMO Marketing Office: Jl. Batursari 20SB, Sanur; tel: 0361 27 1145
Useful tourist information websites: http://floresexotictours.blogspot.com, www.florestourism.com, www.komodonationalpark.org.
Sumbawa
Tourist Information Office: Jl. Sukarno-Hatta, Raba, Bima; tel: 0374-44331.
Tourist Information Office: Jl. Akasia, No. 2, Dompu; tel: 0373-21177.
Tourist Information Office: Jl. Bungur, No. 1, Sumbawa Besar; tel: 0371-261-658.
Timor
Tourist Office: Jl. Raya El Tari, No. 2, Kupang; tel: 0380-833104, 833650.
Kupang Klub House: Jl. Hati Mulia, No. 2/6, Kupang; tel: 0380-840 244; www.kupangklubhouse.com, online information directory for Kupang and East Nusa Tenggara.
Other useful websites for East Nusa Tenggara tourist information: www.alordiver.com, www.lavalontouristinfo.com.
Kalimantan
Useful tourist information websites include www.kalimantantours.com and www.extremeborneo.com.
Banjarmasin
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Pramuka, No. 4, Banjarmasin; tel: 0511-274 252.
Palangkaraya
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Tjilik Riwut, Km 5, Palangkaraya 73112; tel: 0536-323 1110.
Pontianak
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Letjen. Sutoyo, Km 17, Pontianak; tel: 0561-736 172.
Samarinda
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Sudirman, No. 22, Samarinda; tel: 0541-736 850, 747 241.
Sulawesi
Bau-Bau
Buton Tourist Office: tel: 0402-23588.
Kendari
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Lakidende, No. 9; tel: 0401-21764.
Makassar
Provincial Tourist Office: Jl. Jend. Sudirman, No. 23, Makassar; tel: 0411-872 366, 878 912; Mon–Fri 8am–4pm.
There is also a Tourist Information Centre inside Benteng Rotterdam organised by the Indonesia Tour Guide Association.
Manado
Tourism Office: Jl. Diponegoro 111, Manadoi; tel: 0431-851 723.
North Sulawesi Tourism Organisation; tel: 0431-824 445.
Useful tourist information websites for North Sulawesi: www.north-sulawesi.com, www.north-sulawesi.org, www.divenorthsulawesi.com.
Palu
Provincial Tourist Services: Jl. Dewi Sartika, No. 91; tel: 0451-455 260.
Rantepao
Government Tourist Office: Jl. A. Yani, No. 62; tel: 0423-21277.
Tourist Information: Toraja Decouverte, Jl. Pahlawan, No. 7 (behind Modern Foto); email: torajainfo@gmail.com. Organises tours, hiking, rafting, and car/motorbike rental.
Maluku
Tourism Information Centre: Jl. Bhayangkara, Tobelo, Ambon; www.halmaherautara.com.
Papua
Tourist Office: Jl. Raya Abepura, Dinas, Otonom Kotaraja, Jayapura; tel: 0967-583001, -586551
Tour Operators and Travel Agents
Java
Jakarta
Sahabat Museum (Friends of the Museum): contact Mr Ade Purnama; mobile tel: 081-949 682; email: adep@cbn.net.id, sahabatmuseum@yahoogroups.com. An expert historian, Mr Ade conducts tours of museums and other historical sites in Jakarta as well as elsewhere in Java. A popular walking tour is in Old Batavia, stopping to eat in restaurants with traditional menus.
Karash Adventure & Training: Jl. Gabus Raya, No. 37, Pasar Minggu, Jakarta; tel: 021-7884 3830. Specialises in introducing Indonesia’s nature and culture to travellers who want to go off the beaten path. Organises trekking, mountain climbing and team-building for businesses and families.
Panorama Tours: Head Office, Panorama Building, 3rd Floor, Jl. Tomang Raya, No. 63; tel: 021-2556 5199; www.panorama-tours.com. Incoming tour operator in Jakarta with several branches in Java and Bali. Specialises in Java-overland-to-Bali tours with multilingual guides. Also does ticketing and hotel reservations.
West Java
Ndeso Adventure Consultant (www.exploredesa.com) is a volcano- and eco-adventure specialist committed to responsible travel principles and excellent customer service. Experienced guides lead volcano-climbing and walking expeditions and adventure trips throughout Java, which can include tailored trips to active Gunung Bromo and Gunung Semeru in the magnificent Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, as well as to Gunung Kerinci and Gunung Ijen, where sulphur miners carry heavy loads from the odiferous crater surrounded by rainforests, coffee plantations and breathtaking scenery. Their itineraries also include 12- and 21-day volcano explorations in Java and active volcanoes from Central to East Java.
Visits to Ujung Kulon National Park and Krakatau can be arranged with these Jakarta-based tour companies specialising in these areas.
Ujung Kulon Tours & Travel: Jl. Angkasa Kav.B-6, Kermayoran, Jakarta; tel: 021- 6586 7912; www.ujungkulon-tour.com.
Ujung Kulon Ecotourism Information Centre: Jl. Raya Labuan, Km 10, Carita, Pandeglang; tel: 0253-880 609; www.ujungkulonecotourism.com.
East Java
East Java overland tours
For 1–7-night East Java Discovery excursions contact: Aneka Kartika Tours & Travel Services: Jl. Manyar Kertoarjo V-50, Surabaya; tel: 031-592 9000; www.aneka-tours.co.id.
Baluran National Park
For tourist information, mountain and savannah hiking, birdwatching treks and excursions to Baluran beaches, contact Rosa’s Ecolodge (www.rosasecolodge.com). Guides speak Dutch and English. Proceeds help to finance environmental education for villagers.
Gunung Ijen
For information on Gunung Ijen, its 54-hectare (133-acre) sulphuric crater lake, and clove, cocoa and coffee plantations (which helped the Dutch to corner the world’s coffee market in the 19th and 20th centuries), contact the Banyuwangi Tourism Office (tel: 0333-424 172) . Ijen Villa and Resort (tel: 0333-773 3338, www.ijendiscovery.com).
Bali
By letting travel agents arrange logistics for you, you get more time for having fun. They can organise car hire, guides, tours, airline tickets and hotel reservations. Most hotels have a travel desk or can suggest an agency nearby. Some of the large full-service agencies are:
Asian Trails: Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, No. 260, Sanur; tel: 0361-285 771; www.asiantrails.com.
Bagus Discovery: Jl. By-Pass I Gusti Ngurah Rai, No. 300B, Denpasar, tel: 0361-751 223, www.bagus-discovery.com.
Golden Kris Tours: Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, No. 7, Sanur, tel: 0361-289 225; www.goldenkrisbali.com.
KCBJ Tours & Travel Services: Jl. Raya Kuta, No. 127, Kuta; tel: 0361-751 517; www.kcbtours.com.
Pacto: Jl. Bypass, Sanur; tel: 0361-288 247; www.pactoltd.com.
Sutra Tours: Jl. Sekarangi, No. 14, By-Pass Prof. Dr IB Mantra, Kesambi, Denpasar, tel: 0361-466665; www.sutatour.com.
Vayatour: Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, No. 143, Sanur; tel: 0361-285 555.
Walking tours (Ubud)
There are three Ubud-based walking tour groups, and all are recommended.
Bali Bird Walks: www.balibirdwalk.com.
Keep Walking Tours: www.balispirit.com/tours.
Ubud Herb Walks: www.baliherbalwalk.com.
Cycling tours
A range of interesting outdoor activities are available, allowing visitors to enjoy the ‘real Bali’ via cycling through villages or walking through rice fields. For guided cycling geared to suit capabilities, contact I Wayan Kertayasa at Bali Sport (www.balicycling.com), member of both the Bali and the Indonesia Cycling federations.
Lombok
Perama Travel Club: Jl. Pejanggik, No. 66, Mataram; tel: 0370-635 928; www.peramatour.com. Organises tours, sightseeing trips, ferry tickets, surfing, snorkelling and diving trips. It has branches in Senggigi, Gili Terawangan and Labuan Lombok, six offices in Bali, and one each in Jakarta, Surabaya and Balikpapan (East Kalimantan), the Netherlands and Germany.
Kalimantan
Ateng Tour: Jl. Gajah Mada, No. 201, Pontianak; tel: 0561-732-683. Offers tours to West Kalimantan Dayak country near Singkawang and Sambas, and a Serimbu rapids adventure with local boats. Other itineraries include expeditions to Mount Kelam and Gunung Palung National Park, as well as to Mulu Caves in Sarawak.
Bagus Travel: Jl. Sulawesi, No. 17, Banjarmasin 70115; tel: 0511-59979. Well-thought-out South Kalimantan itineraries ranging from city tours and three-day diamond-mining, bamboo-rafting or trekking trips, to 10-day Dayak expeditions. There is also an itinerary for Tanjung Puting National Park.
De’Gigant Tours: Jl. Martadinata Rauda 1, No. 21 RT 11, Samarinda; tel: +62 (0)81-258 46578; www.borneotourgigant.com. A full-service tour operator specialising in adventure tours throughout Kalimantan. Its website has the most complete information on the island available.
Sulawesi
Wira Tours & Travel: Jl. Gunung Lokon, No. 25, Makassar; tel: 0411-312-298; www.sulawesi-celebes.com. With 20 years’ experience in cultural and adventure travel in Sulawesi, this is an excellent resource for customised group or individual tours.
Safari Tours & Travel: Jl. Sam Ratulangi, No. 176, Sulawesi Utara; tel: 0431-857-637; A complete service tour operator and travel agency focusing on North Sulawesi, offers diving, trekking, horse riding, rafting and cultural tours.
Conservation and Marine Expeditions
Operation Wallacea (www.opwall.com) runs 2–10-week research conservation expeditions, July–Aug, for students and volunteers. Participants stay in villages and/or forest base camps, and do jungle training and data collecting – a great way to see a lot of wildlife and experience local community living.
The company also conducts marine biology research expeditions from Hoga island. Volunteers stay in rustic beach bungalows and dive/snorkel every day to help marine biologists collect data.
Papua
Raja Ampat
For further information about Raja Ampat’s diverse species, visit the websites of World Wildlife Fund (www.worldwildlife.org), which also occasionally conducts tours, Conservation International (www.conservation.org) and The Nature Conservancy (TNC) (www.nature.org) or visit the TNC field office at Jl. Gunung Merapi, No. 38, Sorong; tel: 0951-323 437.
W
Weights and measures
Indonesia follows the metric system.
What to bring
Travel as lightly as possible, as there are many good buys to be found in Indonesia and never enough luggage space for them. Essentials are insect repellent, sunscreen, prescription medicines and perhaps an extra set of spectacles. Always hand-carry medicines, as checked-in luggage can get delayed or lost. Make sure all luggage is locked.
What to wear
Indonesians are concerned with how they present themselves, and are particularly mindful of modesty. As most Indonesians are Muslim, it is polite for women to keep their knees, midriffs and armpits covered.Strappy vests, halter tops, shorts and miniskirts are frowned upon, as are swimsuits anywhere other than on the beach or at the pool.
As the weather is hot and humid year-round, bring all-cotton clothing or the synthetic quick-dry variety for sale in camping stores throughout the world. Sandals or footwear that can be slipped off easily are a good idea, especially if planning to visit mosques or homes, as shoes are always removed before entering. Hiking boots may be required for trekking.
For formal occasions, men wear batik shirts and tailored trousers; women, modest dresses or ethnic outfits.
Women travellers
It is highly unusual for a young woman to travel alone in Indonesia, and solo females may have to put up with being pestered by gregarious Indonesian men; young local women almost always move around in company. However, you will be quite safe as long as you dress and behave modestly; women with bare legs and minimal tops are considered disrespectful.
Take the usual precautions: don’t walk down dark alleys or on beaches alone at night. In Bali and Jakarta, be wary of gigolos and ‘cowboys’ offering free rides.