Straight from the Earth

LENTIL and POTATO CURRY

For most Americans, the bold taste of curry powder represents the distinctive flavor of Indian cuisine. So you might be surprised to learn that the commercial blends we buy in the supermarket are virtually unknown in India. Instead of packaged spice blends, many households develop their own signature curries from a wide array of seeds and powders. I used commercial curry powder in my early version of this recipe, until I was encouraged by Marabeth Karmally, who makes magical Indian food, to try creating a spice mix from scratch. Who knew it would be so easy and would make this dish extra delicious? Small amounts of seeds and aromatics are slowly sautéed, a technique that coaxes a nuanced complexity of aromas and flavors from the ingredients. The subtle interplay of spices enhances (rather than overwhelms) the vegetables. We included carrots and peas, which is not traditional, because we like adding their slight sweetness and bright color. —MYRA

Serves 4

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, medium dice

4 dried red chile peppers, about 2 in/5 cm long

¹/₄ tsp black mustard seeds

¹/₄ tsp cumin seeds

2 large tomatoes, chopped (peeling optional; see page 125)

¹/₂ cup/90 g split red lentils, rinsed

¹/₂ cup/100 g French green lentils, rinsed

4 cups/960 ml very hot water (about 180°F/82°C)

2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped, seeds and ribs optional

3 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 tbsp finely minced, peeled fresh ginger

1¹/₂ tsp salt

¹/₄ tsp ground turmeric

1 lb/455 g Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potatoes, medium dice

1 large carrot, thinly sliced

1 cup/130 g fresh or frozen peas

Cooked brown basmati rice

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, red chiles, mustard seeds, and cumin seeds and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and has begun to turn golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until they soften and break down, 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside.

Put the red and green lentils and hot water in a large saucepan over high heat. Bring to the start of a simmer, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onion-spice mixture, the jalapeños, garlic, ginger, salt, and turmeric. Cover the pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and simmer, covered, for 9 minutes. Stir in the carrot, cover the pan, and continue cooking until the vegetables are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes more.

Remove the cover and stir in the peas. Cook until the peas are hot, the lentils are just tender, and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. If the liquid has evaporated, add ¹/₂ cup/120 ml of hot water.

Serve hot over brown basmati rice.