DESSERTS BASED on fresh fruit are increasingly popular with today’s young chefs who like a meal to end on a light note. There are always fresh fruit sorbets on the menu since the sorbet as a dessert has become a universal favorite. Many chefs serve a Champagne or similar type of sorbet as a palate freshener during the meal in the old tradition, but the fruit sorbets are now an established tradition in their own right as desserts. Ice cream is also used imaginatively.
There are still some very rich desserts for self-indulgent moments. A few old favorites like Trifle and Hot Butterscotch Pudding are enduringly popular.
A glass of sweet white wine with desserts rounds out a meal pleasantly. Drink a Barsac, Sauternes, Vouvray, Tokay dessert wine, the sweet wines of the Rhine and Moselle, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise or the sweet California wines such as the Stony Hill Vineyard’s Semillon de Soleil, and of course, Champagne.
NICK GILL, head chef at Hambleton Hall, in Leicestershire, has a special way with sherbets, which he serves freshly made, either singly, or together in smaller quantities with the various fruit colors making an attractive pattern on the plate. They make a subtle and refreshing ending to a meal.
3 cups fresh orange juice, strained
⅓ cup confectioners’ sugar, or to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons orange liqueur, according to taste
Garnish: tangerine or mandarin orange segments
Combine the orange juice, sugar and liqueur in a bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste and add more sugar if liked. Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Or the sherbet can be made in ice-cube trays with the dividers removed. When partly frozen, remove and beat until smooth. Beat the mixture 2 or 3 times during the freezing process.
If the sherbet is not to be served immediately, put it into the freezer or freezer compartment, then transfer to the refrigerator half an hour before serving to restore the soft texture. Scoop into serving dishes and garnish with a tangerine or mandarin section.
MAKES 3 cups.
2 cups fresh lime juice, strained
2½ cups confectioners’ sugar, or to taste
Garnish: thin slices of unpeeled lime
Combine the lime juice and sugar in a bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Taste and add more sugar if liked. Freeze the mixture in an icecream freezer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Or the sherbet can be made in ice-cube trays in the same way as the orange sherbet.
Serve immediately, or put into the freezer or freezer compartment and transfer to the refrigerator half an hour before serving to restore the soft texture. Scoop into serving dishes and garnish with a slice of lime.
MAKES 3 cups.
4 cups hulled and sliced strawberries
½ cup confectioners’ sugar, or to taste
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Garnish: mint leaves and raspberries
Purée the strawberries with 1 cup water in a blender or food processor, then rub the purée through a fine sieve into a bowl to get rid of the seeds. Add the sugar and lemon juice and stir until sugar is dissolved. Taste and add more sugar or lemon juice if liked. Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Or the sherbet can be made in ice-cube trays in the same way as the orange sherbet.
Serve immediately, or put into the freezer or freezing compartment and transfer to the refrigerator half an hour before serving to restore the soft texture. Scoop into serving dishes and garnish with a raspberry and a mint leaf.
MAKES 4 cups.
Nick Gill serves his sherbets with Almond Tuiles, the crisp thin almond cookies that are shaped like curved tiles. They are easy to make. This is Nick’s own recipe.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
⅓ cup superfine sugar
2 large egg whites, lightly beaten
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon almond extract
½ cup blanched almonds, lightly toasted and ground
¼ cup all-purpose flour, sifted
½ cup sliced blanched almonds
Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl until the mixture is light and fluffy. Whisk in the egg whites in 2 batches. Add the vanilla and almond extracts and whisk again until the mixture is lightly combined. Fold in the ground almonds and the flour, then stir in the sliced almonds.
Using one quarter of the batter drop it, a teaspoon at a time, onto a buttered baking sheet, 3 inches apart. Flatten each spoonful into a circle about 2½ inches in diameter. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (375°F.) for 6 to 8 minutes, until the edges are lightly browned.
Remove immediately from the oven; using a metal spatula, take the cookies one by one from the baking sheet and curve them around a rolling pin. Slide off and cool on a rack. Any that cool too much to be easy to curve can be returned to the oven very briefly to soften. Continue in the same way with the rest of the batter.
MAKES about 40.
This is a most delicious sorbet which Simon Hopkinson, the head chef of Hilaire restaurant in London, created to use his favorite white peaches, which are in season only for a short time. He discovered, rather to his amusement, that canned white peaches also produce a beautifully textured and flavored sorbet.
3 large white peaches, peeled pitted
1 cup peach juice, or water
4 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, or to taste
6 tablespoons lemon juice
¼ cup blue plum eau-de-vie (Quetsch), or yellow plum eau-de-vie (Mirabelle) (optional)
Chop the peaches coarse and put them into a food processor or blender with the peach juice or water, sugar, lemon juice, and eau-de-vie if using it, and process to a purée. Taste and add more sugar, if necessary. If using canned peaches, the peach juice in the can will be sweetened; more sugar may be necessary if using fresh peaches. Freeze in an ice cream or sorbet freezer according to manufacturer’s instructions, usually for 15 to 20 minutes.
SERVES 6.
Terry Boswell, chef-patronne of Combe House Hotel in Gittisham, Devon, invented this dessert to use up some leftover meringues. It happened one summer day when there were also lots of fine strawberries and raspberries to be had. It is a really lovely excuse for creating a dish that is anything but plain and leftoverish-dull. It is truly luxurious.
Meringues
4 large egg whites
Pinch of salt
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup superfine sugar
Bombe
2½ cups heavy cream
½teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 cups chopped strawberries ar raspberries
1 tablespoon eau-de-vie de Framboise (optional)
Oil for terrine
To make the meringues beat the egg whites in a large bowl with the salt until they are frothy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until they begin to hold their shape. Gradually add ¼ cup of the sugar, beating until the whites hold stiff peaks. Continue to beat while gradually adding the rest of the sugar until the whites are stiff and shiny. Line a baking sheet with buttered and lightly floured parchment paper and spoon the meringue mixture by tablespoon onto it. Bake in a preheated very slow oven (200°F.), or as low as possible, and bake for 2 hours or until the meringues are crisp and firm. Take meringues out of the oven and let them cool. Crumble into pieces the size of walnuts. Set aside.
In a large bowl beat the cream with the vanilla and 2 tablespoons of confectioners’ sugar until cream stands in peaks. Toss the strawberries or raspberries in the ½ cup confectioners’ sugar and fold into the whipped cream, with the eau-de-vie if using it. Taste and add more sugar if necessary. Fold in the crumbled meringues gently but thoroughly.
Line a terrine or loaf pan 9 by 5 inches with aluminum foil brushed with oil and pour in the cream mixture, banging the pan on the table so that the mixture drops into the comers. With a spatula, level the top. Cover with foil and freeze.
Two hours before serving, transfer the bombe to the refrigerator to let it soften slightly. Turn it out onto a serving platter and slice. If liked, serve with heavy cream or puréed raspberries, sieved to get rid of the seeds.
SERVES 8 to 10.
Terry Boswell says this bombe invites the cook’s imagination to invent other fillings. Add half a pound of melted chocolate with toasted almonds for example; or experiment with other soft fruits. Cranberry sauce might be interesting.
Lyn Hall, principal of La Petite Cuisine School of Cooking in London, says her soufflé is ideal for holiday entertaining and at any time of the year, as cranberries, which freeze well, are always available. It is also easy to make and can be prepared well ahead of time.
Topping
1¼ cups sweet cider
1 cinnamon stick
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
¾ cup dry red wine
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Grated rind of 1 orange
Sugar
1½ cups cranberries
Soufflé
1 cup cranberries
¼ cup Ruby Port wine
2 tablespoons water
1 cinnamon stick
1¾ cups heavy cream
3 large eggs, separated
½ cup vanilla sugar, or use ½ cup sugar and ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons crème de cassis liqueur
Garnish: ¾ cup heavy cream, whipped
To make the topping, combine all the ingredients in a saucepan, using sugar to taste, and cook over low heat until the cranberries burst. Remove immediately from the heat and leave for 3 hours for the cranberries to absorb the flavor of the liquid.
To make the soufflé, put 1 cup cranberries into a saucepan with the port, water and cinnamon stick. Cook over low heat until berries burst. Drain thoroughly, reserving the liquid. Discard cinnamon stick. Chop berries and set aside in a bowl. Reduce the cooking liquid over moderate heat to 2 tablespoons. Transfer to a cup and set aside.
In a large bowl beat 1¾ cups cream until stiff. Refrigerate. In another bowl beat the egg yolks with ¼ cup of the sugar until lemon-colored and fluffy. In a large bowl beat the egg whites until they stand in peaks. Gradually beat in remaining ¼ cup sugar, and the vanilla extract if not using vanilla sugar, and beat until whites are very stiff and shiny. Fold the egg-yolk mixture into the whites, then gently but thoroughly fold eggs and the chopped cranberries into the whipped cream. Add the crème de cassis and the 2 tablespoons of reduced cranberry liquid to the mixture, then pile it into a 3-cup soufflé mold prepared with a collar. Freeze, uncovered.
Remove from the freezer and put into the refrigerator for about 2 hours before serving, to soften. Pipe or spoon a border of whipped cream on the top of the soufflé. Drain the poached cranberries that have been soaking and spoon on top of the soufflé inside the whipped cream border. Remove the collar and serve.
SERVES 6.
This is a lovely summer dessert created by Shaun Hill, when he was chef-patron of Hill’s restaurant in Stratford-upon-Avon, before joining Gidleigh Park, Chagford, Devon, as head chef. It takes little time and, since it can be made ahead, is useful for entertaining. Any strawberries can be used, but Shaun prefers tiny fraises des bois, wild strawberries, which look very pretty on a plain white plate with the golden ice cream beside them.
1 cup milk
1 cup superfine sugar
6 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons clear honey
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1½ pounds strawberries, preferably wild strawberries
Heat the milk. In a bowl cream the sugar and egg yolks until they form a ribbon. Whisk the warm milk into the egg-yolk mixture and set the bowl over hot water. Cook over low heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat a spoon. Remove from heat, stir in the honey, cream and lemon juice, and pour into an ice-cream freezer. Freeze for 20 minutes.
Arrange the strawberries in a mound on a dessert plate with the honey ice cream beside them. Any imperfect berries may be puréed in a blender or food processor and poured onto the plates as a decorative accent.
SERVES 6.
Michael Collom, head chef at the Priory Hotel at Bath in Avon, has created a novel and attractive way of serving strawberries with vanilla ice cream. It takes little time to do and makes a most elegant dessert.
4 large egg yolks
½ cup superfine sugar
1 tablespoon Kirsch liqueur
6 macaroons
6 scoops of vanilla ice cream
1 pound strawberries, sliced lengthwise
In the top pan of a double boiler set over hot water on low heat whisk the egg yolks, sugar and Kirsch together until the mixture is thick and creamy. Remove from the heat and continue to whisk until it is cold. Set aside.
Crumble the macaroons into the bottoms of 6 shallow flameproof ramekins or small soufflé molds. Put a scoop of ice cream in each mold and surround it with the strawberries. Spoon the egg-yolk mixture on top and glaze quickly under a preheated hot broiler about 4 inches from the source of heat just until the top is lightly browned. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6.
John King, head chef of the Ritz Club, London, has devised a simple and attractive use for fresh peaches and strawberries, turning them into a quite glamorous and very pretty-to-look-at dessert.
3 large ripe peaches
½ pound fresh strawberries, about 2 cups
2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste
¼ cup superfine sugar
1 pint banana ice cream
1 large ripe banana, sliced
2 sprigs of fresh mint
Drop the peaches into briskly boiling water for a few seconds; lift out and slip off the skins. Halve the peaches and remove the pits. Have ready 6 chilled dessert plates. Place a peach half, cut side up, in the center of each dish.
Set aside six of the best strawberries. Put the rest of the strawberries in a blender or food processor with the lemon juice and sugar and reduce to a purée. Pour into a jug.
Place a scoop of ice cream in the hollow of each peach. Put the sliced bananas round the edge of the ice cream. Slice or halve the strawberries and put them round the edge with the banana slices. Place a mint leaf on top of the ice cream. Pour the strawberry purée around the peach onto the plate.
SERVES 6.
Peter Jackson, chef-patron of The Colonial Restaurant on the High Street in Glasgow, Scotland, enjoys brown bread ice cream, so he worked out his own version. It is very rich and good. The bread crumbs add a pleasant crunch to the soft ice cream.
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon superfine sugar
1 vanilla bean
1¼ cups milk
1¼ cups heavy cream, partially whipped
4 to 5 tablespoons fresh brown bread crumbs
1 tablespoon rum
In a large bowl beat the whole eggs, egg yolks and ¼ cup sugar until well blended. Split the vanilla bean and add it to the milk in the top pan of a double boiler set over hot water on very low heat. Cover and let the vanilla infuse for 10 minutes. Do not let the milk boil. If it gets too hot, remove it from the heat. Strain the milk onto the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Return the mixture to the double boiler and cook, stirring, over low heat until the custard coats the back of a spoon, about 7 minutes. Pour it into the bowl and whisk occasionally as it cools. When it is cool, fold in the partially whipped cream. Put into an ice-cream freezer and churn according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Mix the bread crumbs and 1 tablespoon sugar together and put on a baking sheet. Put under a preheated, not very hot broiler to brown slowly. Do not let crumbs burn. Cool the crumb mixture. Stir it into the ice cream with the rum, or use a little vanilla if preferred. Leave it in the freezer to harden.
This is delicious with Kenneth Bell’s Butterscotch Pudding (see Index), served sliced and chilled but without the sauce.
SERVES 6.
When strawberries are at their largest and finest, red-ripe and luscious, Murdo MacSween, head chef at Oakley Court near Windsor, likes to serve them in an orange sabayon which brings out the tart sweetness of their flavor. It is a pretty dessert, and simple to make.
6 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup orange juice
1½ pounds strawberries, large if possible, washed and hulled
6 mint leaves
In the top pan of a double boiler set over hot water beat the egg yolks with the sugar, wine and orange juice and cook over low heat until thick enough to coat a spoon. Pour the sauce onto 6 dessert plates.
Cut the strawberries lengthwise into halves and arrange, cut sides down, on top of the sabayon around the inner rim of the plate. Glaze under a hot broiler. Decorate each plate with a fresh mint leaf.
SERVES 6.
VARIATION: Sam Chalmers, formerly of Le Talbooth restaurant at Dedhatn, in Essex, has an interestingly different version of this, a rather more elaborate one. Instead of wine and orange juice, add 2 tablespoons Grand Mamier to the sabayon. Soak an assortment of sliced fresh fruits in Grand Mamier for 3 to 4 hours, then arrange the fruits on the base of a dessert plate. Pour the sabayon over the fruits, sprinkle with slivered almonds, and glaze under a hot broiler.
SERVES 6.
Baba Hine, of Corse Lawn House at Corse Lawn in Gloucestershire has created a very refreshing summer dessert in which the honey sweetness of the papaya is pleasantly contrasted with the tart sweetness of the fresh lime mousse.
¾ cup fresh lime juice or lemon juice
¾ cup superfine sugar
1 cup heavy cream
3 small papayas, halved, with seeds removed
Strain the lime juice into a bowl. Stir in the sugar and continue to stir until it is dissolved. In another bowl beat the cream until it stands in firm peaks. Gently fold in the lime juice mixture and beat again until it holds a soft peak. Fill the papaya halves with the mixture and refrigerate until ready to serve.
SERVES 6.
Roy Richards is the chef patron of the Manor House restaurant in Pickworth, Lincolnshire. His wife, Veronica, who cooks and more often than not creates the desserts, merits the title of chef-patronne as her desserts, even the more traditional ones, always have a touch of originality because of her creative use of ingredients. I am especially fond of this simple blackberry mousse.
1 envelope unflavored gelatin, 7 grams
1 pound blackberries
¼ cup lemon juice
½ cup sugar
½ cup heavy cream, chilled
4 large egg whites
Pinch of salt
Pinch of cream of tartar
Sprinkle the gelatin over ¼ cup cold water in a small bowl and leave it to soften. Combine the blackberries, lemon juice and sugar in a saucepan, bring to a simmer over moderate heat, and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. Cool slightly, then pour into a blender or food processor and reduce to a purée. Strain through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pushing down hard on the solids. Only the seeds should remain in the sieve; discard them. Return the purée to the saucepan. Stir in the gelatin and warm the mixture just until the gelatin is dissolved. Set aside.
In a bowl beat the cream until it stands in stiff peaks. In a large bowl beat the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until they stand in stiff peaks. Fold the cream and egg whites gently but thoroughly into the blackberry purée. Spoon the mousse into a glass serving bowl and chill in the refrigerator for 4 hours, or until it is set.
To serve, divide the mousse among 6 individual glass dishes.
SERVES 6.
This is a simple-to-make, quick and good dessert, the creation of John Evans, chef-patron of Meadowsweet Hotel and Restaurant at Llanrwst, Gwynedd, North Wales. It is useful for a dinner party as it is made ahead of time.
5 large eggs, separated
½ cup superfine sugar
1 tablespoon rum
1 tablespoons brandy
1¾ cups heavy cream
1 envelope unflavored gelatin, 7 grams
In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until they are thick and creamy. Whisk in the rum and brandy. In another bowl beat the cream until it stands in soft peaks. Fold into the egg-yolk mixture. Pour ¼ cup cold water into a small saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin over it to soften, then heat gently, stirring, until the gelatin has dissolved. Cool slightly and stir into the mixture. In a large bowl beat the egg whites until they stand in firm peaks. Fold the egg whites into the egg-yolk and cream mixture gently but thoroughly. Pour into a large decorative glass dessert bowl and chill in the refrigerator until set.
Serve with brandy snaps. If liked, the mousse may be spooned into individual dessert glasses and chilled.
SERVES 6 to 8.
This simple-to-make dessert lends itself to all manner of attractive presentations. Its creator, Paul Vidic, head chef at Michael’s Nook, a country house hotel in Grasmere in the English Lake District, spoons layers of each mousse alternately into glass dessert dishes. It also looks attractive served in two small molds, one of white chocolate mousse, the other of dark. It is very good served with halved strawberries set upright around the edge of the dish with a whole strawberry in the middle. The flavors marry well.
Dark Chocolate Mousse
4 ounces (squares) semisweet dark baking chocolate
2 eggs, separated
½ cup heavy cream, whipped
Pinch of salt
White Chocolate Mousse
4 ounces (squares) white chocolate
2 eggs, separated
½ cup heavy cream, whipped
Pinch of salt
Melt the two chocolates separately. Place each in the top pan of a double boiler with 2 to 3 tablespoons water, set over hot water on low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the chocolate has melted and is smooth, about 5 minutes or less. Cool. Stir the egg yolks into each chocolate. Fold the cream into the mixture.
It may be more convenient to whip all the egg whites together with a pinch of salt and fold half into each chocolate mixture instead of beating them separately. When the whites stand in firm peaks, fold half into each mixture and spoon the batters in alternate layers into 6 chilled dessert glasses. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
Decorate according to personal taste with strawberries, crystallized violets, chopped crystallized gingerroot, or rosettes of whipped cream; or if preferred, leave plain.
SERVES 6.
George Perry-Smith of the Riverside Restaurant at Helford, Cornwall, has created a deceptively simple dessert which turns out to be exquisitely flavored. It makes the peach season worth waiting for.
6 large peaches
2¼ cups water
¾ cup sugar
3 large lemons
3 tablespoons brandy
Drop the peaches into boiling water for 1 minute, plunge them into cold water, and remove the skins. In a saucepan combine 2¼ cups water and sugar. Trim the ends of the lemons and cut them into very thin slices. Remove any seeds. Add lemons to the saucepan with the sugar and water and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the peaches and simmer until they are tender, about 10 minutes. The time will vary so test with a toothpick after 5 minutes. Lift peaches out as soon as they are done. Continue to cook the lemon slices until they are translucent, about 30 minutes. Cool. Stir in the brandy, then pour the syrup over the peaches and chill in the refrigerator.
SERVES 6.
Joyce Molyneux, chef-patronne of the Carved Angel restaurant in Dartmouth, Devon, often finds herself with an excess of fresh fruit. This simplest of recipes is an excellent way of turning it into a light, refreshing dessert.
1 pound fruits—apples, pears and peaches
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 cup sweet white wine such as Sauternes
1 envelope unflavored gelatin, 7 grams
1 tablespoon lemon juice, or to taste
Garnish: mint sprigs
Peel and core the apples and pears and cut into 8 lengthwise slices. Drop the peaches into briskly boiling water for a few seconds, lift out, and slip off the skins. Cut into halves, remove the pits, and cut each peach half into 4 lengthwise slices.
In a medium-size saucepan combine the sugar, water and wine and simmer just until the sugar has dissolved. Add the fruits and poach, uncovered, until fruits are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Lift out the fruits with a slotted spoon into a bowl.
Measure the liquid and reduce it, if necessary, to 2 cups over moderately high heat. Pour ¼ cup water into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it. When the gelatin has softened, stir it into the syrup and cook, stirring, until the gelatin has dissolved. Taste and add the lemon juice, adding more if necessary. Pour half of the jelly mixture into 3 or 4 dessert dishes and chill in the refrigerator until it is set. Arrange the fruits on top of the jelly and pour in the rest of the jelly. Refrigerate until set. Garnish with mint sprigs.
SERVES 3 or 4.
VARIATIONS: The jelly can be flavored with other wines or liqueurs. If preferred, a single fruit may be used, for example, pears in red wine and Port wine jelly. The jelly may be unmolded and served with yogurt, cream, or ice cream and sweet biscuits, or served plain garnished with a sprig of mint.
Willie MacPherson, when he was head chef at the Feathers Hotel, Woodstock, Oxfordshire, delighted me by having Strawberry Omelet on the menu. Dessert omelets are not often served on menus with food as innovative and modem as Willie’s. It is an essential part of his cooking philosophy to unite the good things of the past with the best of the new. I had forgotten how luscious a strawberry omelet can be.
1 cup strawberries
¼ cup Grand Marnier or Curaçao or other orange liqueur
1½ teaspoons superfine sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon whipped cream
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon butter
Confectioners’ sugar
Put half of the strawberries, half of the orange liqueur and ½ teaspoon sugar in a small saucepan and cook over low heat for a few minutes, just until the strawberries have softened. Transfer to a blender or food processor and purée. Scrape out the purée into the saucepan and set aside.
Cut the other half of the strawberries into quarters and put into another small saucepan with the rest of the liqueur, and cook over low heat until the strawberries have softened. Set aside.
In a bowl combine the whole egg, egg yolk, cream, remaining sugar and the salt and mix well. Heat the butter in an omelet pan and pour in the egg mixture, tilting the pan rapidly back and forth and stirring the egg with the back of a fork to spread the mixture evenly. As soon as it begins to set, in about 4 seconds, spoon in the quartered strawberry mixture and fold the omelet in half. Slide it off onto a buttered ovenproof dish, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar, and brown it quickly under a preheated broiler.
While the omelet is cooking, warm the strawberry purée and pour it onto a plate. Lift the omelet onto the plate, using a fish slice. Serve immediately.
SERVES 1.
Jean Norton is a distinguished prizewinning woman chef whom I met when she was chef-patronne of Rookery Hall near Nantwich in Cheshire. She is one of the few women appointed a Master Chef member of the British Chapter of the Institute of Master Chefs. This is one of her own recipes.
4 pancakes, 6 inches across (follow Crêpe recipe, see Index, but add 1 teaspoon superfine sugar; or use any crêpe or pancake recipe)
2 large ripe mangoes
1 tablespoon brandy
3 large egg whites
1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
Oil
1 cup thin-sliced fresh fruits such as strawberries, kiwi fruit, fresh figs, etc.
Confectioners’ sugar
Make the pancakes and set them aside. Peel the mangoes. Using the point of a small sharp knife, locate the mango seed. Set the mango on its side and cut down each side to remove the flesh. Do the same with the second mango. Cut off any flesh around the pit. In a blender or food processor purée mangoes, chopped, with the brandy. Pour into a sauceboat and chill.
In a large bowl beat the egg whites until they stand in firm peaks. Fold in the tablespoon of confectioners’ sugar. Lightly brush a baking sheet with oil and lay the 4 pancakes on it. Make a layer of the sliced fresh fruit to cover one side of each pancake. Top with the meringue and fold over lightly. Bake in a preheated hot oven (425°F) for 10 minutes, or until the meringue is firm and golden.
Carefully lift out pancakes onto 4 dessert plates. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and serve with the mango purée.
SERVES 4.
I never did find out why this dessert is named for Joan Sutherland, the singer, as I was too busy enjoying it, as I always enjoy the cooking of Francis Coulson, chef-patron of Sharrow Bay hotel, Lake Ullswater, in Cumbria’s Lake District.
4 large egg yolks
½ cup superfine sugar
1¼ cups milk heated with a vanilla bean, or add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 envelope unflavored gelatin, 7 grams
1 tablespoon Curaçao liqueur
1¼ cups heavy cream, whipped
4 tablespoons apricot jam
2 tablespoons apricot brandy
Garnish: whipped cream and halved apricots (optional)
In the top pan of a double boiler beat the egg yolks and sugar together until they form a ribbon. Remove the vanilla bean from the hot but not boiling milk and pour the milk slowly into the egg and sugar mixture, stirring constantly. If using vanilla extract instead of the vanilla bean, stir it in. Set the double boiler over hot water on low heat and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the custard has thickened and coats the back of the spoon, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat. Sprinkle the gelatin over ¼ cup cold water to soften, then stir it into the hot custard and continue to stir until gelatin is dissolved. Let the custard cool, then stir in the Curaçao. Taste and add a little more liqueur if necessary. When the custard is cold, fold in the whipped cream.
In a small bowl mix together the apricot jam and apricot brandy until smooth. Pour into the bottom of a 1-quart soufflé mold or glass dessert bowl. Spoon the custard on top and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator until set, 3 to 4 hours.
When ready to serve, decorate with rosettes of whipped cream and halved apricots, if liked. Glaze, if liked, with a little warmed and strained apricot jam.
SERVES 4 to 6.
Allan Holland, chef-patron of Mallory Court at Bishop Tachbrook near Leamington Spa in Warwickshire, has transformed an ancient English dessert, burnt cream, into something excitingly special. The unctuous custard contrasts with the deliciously tart fruit.
6 tangerines, peeled and sectioned
2½ cups heavy cream
8 large egg yolks
¼ cup superfine sugar
2½ tablespoons Mandarin Napoleon liqueur, ar any tangerine liqueur
Light broom sugar
Peel the tangerine segments and remove seeds, if any. Divide the segments among 6 small soufflé molds, about 1-cup size.
Rinse a heavy saucepan with cold water and leave wet. Pour in the cream and heat to just below simmering point. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until they form a ribbon. Pour the hot cream slowly onto the egg-yolk and sugar mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Gradually stir in the liqueur. Pour the mixture into the top pan of a double boiler and set over simmering water on very low heat. Cook the custard, stirring constantly, until it is thick enough to coat a spoon. Pour the custard into the molds and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
An hour before serving sprinkle a layer of soft brown sugar, about ¼ inch thick, over the custards. Put the molds under a preheated broiler just long enough to caramelize the sugar, only a few minutes. Set in a cool place but do not refrigerate.
SERVES 6.
This is a deliciously fresh-tasting dessert created by Sheena Buchanan-Smith, chef-patronne of the Isle of Eriskay Hotel at Ledaig, Strathclyde, in Scotland, to take advantage of an abundance of fresh rhubarb. I have found that it also works well with frozen rhubarb when fresh is not available.
1 pound fresh rhubarb, cut into ½-inch pieces, or 1 pound frozen chopped rhubarb, thawed
⅓cup sugar
1 cup chilled heavy cream
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
Put the rhubarb, fresh or frozen, into a saucepan with just enough water to prevent it burning. Add the sugar, cover, and simmer over low heat for about 8 minutes, or until rhubarb is soft. Cool and spoon into a 1-quart gratin dish. In a chilled bowl beat the cream until it holds firm peaks. Spread the cream over the rhubarb and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, preferably longer.
Sift the brown sugar over the cream and set under a preheated broiler, about 4 inches from the source of heat, for about 2 minutes, until the sugar is just melted. Serve the dessert immediately, or chilled.
SERVES 6.
Christopher Pitman, head chef of the George of Stamford in Lincolnshire, has an interestingly different version of the traditional English trifle. The addition of black coffee sounds very odd, but it works well.
1 day-old sponge cake, cut into 1-inch cubes, about ¾ pound
2 pounds blackberries, strawberries or raspberries, according to taste and the season
4 tablespoons apricot or other jam
½ cup strong black coffee
½ cup medium-dry sherry wine
Custard
4 large eggs
⅓ cup superfine sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Garnish: 2 cups whipped cream, seasonal fruits
Put the cake cubes into a large glass bowl. Cover with the fruit. In a small saucepan mix the jam with the black coffee and sherry and heat, stirring, just long enough to make a smooth mixture. Cool and pour over the cake and fruit. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Make the custard. In the top pan of a double boiler beat the eggs lightly. Beat in the sugar and salt. In a small saucepan heat the milk with the cream to just under a boil. Cool slightly and gradually pour into the egg mixture in the double boiler set over hot, not boiling, water on very low heat. Stir in the vanilla. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats the spoon, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Pour it over the trifle and refrigerate until the custard has set. Garnish with whipped cream and seasonal fruits.
SERVES 6 to 8.
This simple, old-fashioned dessert was developed by Ken Stott, head chef at Kildrummy Castle Hotel in Grampian, Scotland, from a traditional recipe. Scots chefs never lose their old favorites, but constantly and subtly update them so they fit happily into modern menus. This one is a delight.
1 recipe Short-Crust Pastry (see Index)
Raw rice for weighting the shell
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
4 large eggs, separated
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, cut into bits
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
Pinch of cream of tartar
¼ cup superfine sugar
On a lightly floured surface roll out the dough to about 1/8-inch thickness and fit it into a 9-inch pie plate. Crimp the edge with the fingers, prick the bottom of the shell with a fork, and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Line the shell with wax paper, fill with the rice, and bake in a preheated hot oven (425°F.) for 15 minutes. Remove the paper and rice and bake the shell for 10 minutes longer, or until the pastry is golden. Let it cool on a rack.
In a saucepan mix together the sugar and flour. Whisk in 1/4 cup water and the milk. Simmer over low heat, stirring, for 5 minutes, or until the mixture is smooth and thick. Off the heat whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time, then the butter and the vanilla. Cool the mixture, stirring from time to time, and pour it into the pie shell.
In a bowl beat the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until they stand in firm peaks. Pipe or spoon the meringue onto the filling, covering it completely. Bake in a preheated slow oven (300°F.) for 20 minutes, or until the meringue is golden brown. Serve with cream or ice cream or by itself.
SERVES 6.
This is a fine, old-fashioned English dessert to which Kenneth Bell, chef-patron of Thornbury Castle, Thornbury, near Bristol, has given his own inimitable touch. It is a wonderful hot pudding. If fresh dates are available, they add to both texture and flavor.
Pudding
¾ cup sugar
4 tablespoons butter
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½teaspoon baking powder
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup milk, warm
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup chopped dates or raisins tossed in flour
Sauce
¼ pound (1 stick) butter
½ cup dark brown sugar
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup dark rum (optional)
In a bowl beat the sugar and butter together until the mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, vanilla, baking powder and flour, stirring to mix. Pour in the warm milk and add the baking soda. Fold in the dates or raisins, or fresh dates, pitted and chopped, if available. Butter a nonstick cake pan, 9 by 5 inches, and pour in the pudding mixture. Let it stand for 1 hour. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (350°F.) for 1 hour, or until a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.
While the pudding is baking, make the sauce. In a small saucepan melt the butter and stir in the dark brown sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, add the cream and continue to cook, stirring, until well blended. Stir in the rum, if using, as it greatly improves the sauce.
Turn the pudding out onto a serving dish and cut into 8 to 10 slices. Arrange the slices on dessert plates and pour some of the sauce over them. Serve the rest of the sauce separately. If liked, the pudding may be cut into more generous slices to serve 6.
SERVES 6 to 10.
John Martin Grimsey, the young head chef of the White Hart Hotel at Coggeshall in Essex, describes this as a rather rich dessert made with the minimum of effort, and ideal for a dinner party as one can prepare it at least 24 hours beforehand. I endorse all of that except that I’d change rather rich to very rich and add that the cake should delight all chocolate lovers, that it keeps well, and that it goes a long way. Serve it in thin slices, as it is most satisfying.
8 ounces (squares) semisweet baking chocolate
2 large eggs
¼ cup sugar
¼ pound (1 stick) butter, melted and cooled
½ pound graham crackers, crushed (3 cups)
½ pound shelled mixed nuts (walnuts, pecans, cashews, almonds, filberts), chopped
½ cup chopped candied cherries
¾ cup dark rum
Garnish: Whipped cream, candied cherries and nuts
Break the chocolate into bits and put it with 4 tablespoons water into the top pan of a double boiler set over hot water on low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the chocolate has melted and is smooth, about 4 minutes.
In a bowl cream the eggs and sugar until they are light and fluffy. Stir in the butter, then the melted chocolate, the cracker crumbs, nuts, cherries and rum. Leave the mixture to set in a cool place or in the refrigerator for 12 hours to let the flavor develop.
Unmold the cake on a serving dish. The easiest way to do this is to put the bowl in a shallow dish of warm water for a few minutes. Garnish the cake with rosettes of whipped cream, candied cherries and nuts.
SERVES 8 to 10.
This is not a difficult dessert to make but it does take time. It is richly flavored with a delicious sauce. It is worth the effort for a special occasion. Mark Napper, a young Englishman, created the cake when he was head chef at Cromlix House, in Dunblane, Central Region, Scotland.
Cake
2 large eggs
¼ cup superfine sugar
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons Clarified Butter (see Index)
Pastry Cream Fillings
2½ cups milk
6 large egg yolks
½ cup superfine sugar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ pound (1 stick) butter, cut into bits and softened at room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 teaspoons instant espresso coffee powder dissofoed in 1 tablespoon hot water
Chocolate Cream Filling
½ cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons dark rum
12 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped fine
2 tablespoons butter, cut into bits and softened at room temperature
2 tablespoons dark rum to brush on cake layers
Coffee Custard Sauce
2½ cups milk
3 tablespoons ground espresso beans
6 large egg yolks
½cup superfine sugar
Make the cake: Line the bottom of a buttered loaf pan, 9 by 5 by 3 inches, with buttered wax paper. Dust the pan with flour, shaking out excess flour. In a bowl beat the eggs and sugar together until the mixture is light and fluffy. Set the bowl over a saucepan of hot water and let it warm, stirring from time to time. In a blender or food processor beat the mixture until it is very light and increased in volume. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and sift the flour and cocoa over it. Fold in the butter, a tablespoon at a time, until the mixture forms a smooth batter. Spoon the batter into the pan and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (350°F.) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes, then invert the cake onto the rack. Remove the wax paper and let the cake cool, then chill in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 hours, or overnight if convenient.
Make the pastry creams: In a saucepan scald the milk. In a bowl whisk the egg yolks until they are combined, then whisk in the sugar and the flour, then pour in the scalded milk, whisking constantly. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until it has thickened. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Strain into a bowl and stir in the butter and vanilla. Divide the custard evenly between 2 bowls. Stir the dissolved espresso coffee powder into one bowl, mixing thoroughly. Cover both bowls and chill in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.
Make the chocolate cream: In a saucepan combine the cream and the rum, bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and stir until the mixture is smooth. Cool slightly and stir in the butter, mixing well. Chill until the mixture has thickened and holds its shape in a spoon.
Make the coffee custard sauce: Combine the milk and the ground espresso in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, whisking the mixture. Remove from the heat and let the mixture stand for 5 minutes. In a large bowl beat the egg yolks, adding the sugar a little at a time, until the mixture is thick. Gradually whisk in the milk. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and cook it over low heat, stirring constantly, until it is lightly thickened. Do not let it boil. Strain the custard into a bowl and chill it, covered, for at least 1 hour.
Using a serrated knife, slice the cake carefully into 4 layers, brushing each layer on both sides with some of the rum. Clean the loaf pan and butter the bottom and sides of it lightly. Put the bottom layer of the cake, cut side up, in the pan and spread it with the plain pastry cream. Cover with another layer of cake and spread with the coffee-flavored pastry cream. Top with a third layer and spread with the chocolate cream. Top with the last layer, cut side down. Cover the pan and chill the cake in the refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight.
Invert the cake on a serving plate and use a hot knife to slice it. Pour the coffee custard sauce on 6 plates and top with a slice of cake. Decorate with chocolate leaves, if liked.
SERVES 6, or 8 if cut into thinner slices.
I have always admired the versatility of prunes in cooking, since they are equally at home with braised pork, in a pâté or, as here, in a tart. Pierre Chevillard, head chef at Chewton Glen Hotel in Hampshire, created this delicious tart.
1 recipe sweet Short-Crust Pastry (see Index)
1 pound pitted prunes
2 cups heavy cream
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup superfine sugar
½ cup apricot jam
Make the pastry and roll it out on a lightly floured surface into a round about 1/8 inch thick. Fit it into 10-inch flan pan with a removable rim and trim the edge. Prick the shell with a fork and chill it for 30 minutes.
Put the prunes into a saucepan with water barely to cover. Cover, and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Cool the prunes, drain thoroughly, and arrange them in the flan shell. In a bowl combine the cream, eggs and sugar, whisking to mix well. Put the flan ring on a baking sheet and pour the custard over the prunes. Bake in a preheated moderate oven (350°F.) for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the custard is set. Cool the tart at room temperature, then carefully remove the rim.
Slide the tart from the baking sheet onto a serving plate. Melt the apricot jam in a small saucepan over low heat just until it begins to bubble. Rub the jam through a sieve to get rid of any bits of skin and brush it over the tart.
SERVES 6.
VARIATION: John Armstrong, head chef of Martin’s Restaurant in London, has an interesting version of Prune Tart—Prune and Almond Tart, Flavored with Armagnac. The pastry is made in the same way as for Glazed Prune Tart, using an 8-inch flan pan. Soak ½ pound pitted prunes in warm water for 15 minutes; lift out and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the prunes on the pastry. In a bowl whisk together 2 eggs, 5 tablespoons heavy cream, 4 tablespoons superfine sugar, 3 tablespoons fine-ground almonds and 2 tablespoons Armagnac, or other brandy if Armagnac is not available. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan; when it is cool whisk it into the egg and cream mixture. Pour the mixture over the prunes and bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (400°F.) for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the custard is set. Sprinkle the tart with 2 tablespoons Armagnac and serve warm.
SERVES 6.
Passion fruit has an exquisite flavor. Nick Gill, head chef at Hambleton Hall hotel at Oakham, has worked out a simple and delicious soufflé recipe using the fruit. The presentation of the dish is charming.
Butter, flour and sugar for the soufflé molds
12 ripe passion fruit
¾ cup fresh orange juice
8 large eggs, separated
1½ cups vanilla sugar, or use plain sugar and add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to the egg whites
Grated rind of 1 lemon
Pinch of salt
Confectioners’ sugar
Butter, flour and dust with sugar six 1-cup or slightly larger individual soufflé molds. Set aside.
Halve six of the passion fruit and scoop the contents into a bowl. Add the orange juice, stir to mix, and strain the mixture to remove the passion fruit seeds. Beat the egg yolks with ¾ cup of the sugar, the grated lemon rind and the passion-fruit and orange-juice mixture in the top pan of a double boiler set over hot water on very low heat, until the mixture is light and frothy. In a large bowl beat the egg whites with the salt until they stand in firm peaks. Whisk in remaining ¾ cup sugar. Mix half of the egg whites into the egg-yolk mixture, off the heat, then gently but thoroughly fold in remaining egg whites. Spoon the mixture into the prepared soufflé molds and smooth the tops with a spatula. Cook in a preheated hot oven (425°F.) for about 8 minutes, or until the soufflés are well risen and lightly set. Remove from the oven and dust with confectioners’ sugar.
Serve immediately with the remaining 6 passion fruit, tops sliced off, and put into 6 small egg cups. The passion fruit should be spooned into the soufflé after the first spoonful has been eaten. If liked, serve with Almond Tuiles (see Index).
SERVES 6.
VARIATION: Hot Passion Fruit Soufflé. Michael Croft, head chef of the Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath, Avon, has a slightly simpler passion fruit soufflé recipe, conveniently scaled down for one, though it can easily be doubled.
2 egg yolks
½cup superfine sugar
4 egg whites
1 cup passion fruit pulp, sieved to remove seeds
Confectioners’ sugar
In a bowl beat the egg yolks with half of the sugar until light and fluffy. In another bowl beat the whites, adding the rest of the sugar bit by bit until they stand in firm, shiny peaks. Add 3 tablespoons of the passion fruit pulp to the yolks, mix well, then stir in one quarter of the egg whites. Fold in the rest of the egg whites gently but thoroughly. Have ready a 1-cup soufflé mold, buttered and sprinkled with sugar. Pour in the soufflé mixture and bake in a preheated hot oven (425°F.) for about 10 minutes, or until the soufflé is puffed and lightly browned.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately with a sauce of the rest of the passion fruit pulp, warmed, and sweetened if necessary.
SERVES 1.
NOTE: Passion fruit are frequently available fresh. They are also available canned as passion fruit pulp in specialty food shops. The canned pulp is sweetened so this should be taken in consideration and the amount of sugar reduced.
John McGeever, head chef of Congham Hall, a country house hotel at Grimston, near King’s Lynn in Norfolk, loves to create new and attractive dishes. This one is developed from the traditional Crème Brûlée, or Burnt Cream, which originated a very long time ago at Trinity College, Cambridge, in England where it is a specialty. Glayva is a Scottish liqueur, based on whisky. If it is not available, use any liqueur based on Scotch.
4 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1¼ cups heavy cream
¼ cup Glayva (liqueur based on Scotch whisky) or other Scotch-based liqueur
2 tablespoons brown sugar, approximately
In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch. In a small saucepan heat the cream to just under boiling and whisk it into the egg mixture. Stir in the liqueur, return the mixture to the saucepan and simmer, stirring, over low heat until it is thick. Pour it into four ½-cup ramekins or small soufflé molds. Cool and refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes.
Sprinkle with the brown sugar and glaze under a preheated very hot broiler.
SERVES 4.
Melvin Jordan, head chef at Pool Court in Pool-in-Wharfedale, West Yorkshire, devised this delicious way of serving strawberries. The medley of flavors is unusual and delicious.
½ cup sugar
¼ cup brandy
4 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup fresh orange juice
10 green peppercorns
1 pound strawberries, hulled and washed
Vanilla ice cream, preferably homemade
In a small heavy saucepan caramelize the sugar to a light golden color. Off the heat add the brandy, taking care to step back as it will flare up. When the flames die down, stir in the lemon and orange juices and the green peppercorns. Stir over low heat to dissolve the caramel, 5 to 10 minutes. When ready to serve, add the strawberries and cook for 1 minute.
Serve the strawberries and their sauce poured over ice cream in glass dessert dishes.
SERVES 4.
This was a favorite dessert of Raymond Baudon during the time he was head chef at Johnstounburn House Hotel, at Humbie near Edinburgh in Scotland. The pancakes can be made ahead of time, which makes this a quick dessert to put together for family or friends.
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup Cognac or other brandy
4 large ripe pears, peeled, cored and diced
¼ pound (1 stick) butter
8 Crêpes (pancakes) (see Index)
Garnish: fresh fruit, sliced thin
In a large bowl whip the cream with ¼ cup of the sugar and the brandy. Sauté the pears in the butter in a heavy skillet until the fruit is golden but not soft. Sprinkle with the rest of the sugar and cook for a few minutes longer. Divide the pear mixture among the pancakes and top with the whipped cream. Fold or roll the pancakes, transfer to a heated serving dish, and serve garnished with thin-sliced fruits. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4.
This is one of the uncomplicated, pleasing desserts created by Brian Prideaux-Brune at the family home, now a restaurant with rooms, Plumber Manor at Sturminster Newton, Dorset.
6 large egg whites
Pinch of salt
1½ cups superfine sugar
1 cup slivered almonds
2½ cups heavy cream
2 cups halved and pitted grapes
In a large bowl beat the egg whites with the salt until they stand in firm peaks. Fold in the sugar and the almonds. Line 2 baking sheets with oiled wax paper and spread the egg-white mixture evenly over them. Bake in a preheated slow oven (275°F.) for 1¼ hours. Cool.
Beat the cream in a large bowl with a little sugar until it stands in peaks. Fold in the grapes. Lift one of the meringues onto a large flat dish. Spread the cream and grape filling over it and top with the second meringue. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve, then slice and serve.
SERVES 6 to 8.
VARIATION: Nigel Lambert, head chef at the Elms in Abberley near Worcester, describes his cooking as English country with modern influences. He likes good, fresh, honest cooking and tries to make it original and interesting at the same time, as he has done with this traditional English dessert—English Sticky Meringue with Soft Summer Fruits. Make the meringue in the same way as in Almond Meringue with Grapes, only make it into one large circle like a cake. It may need a little longer cooking. When done it should be crispy, lightly brown on the outside, and a little soft and sticky inside. For the filling whip 2 cups heavy cream until the cream stands in peaks and spread it onto the cooled meringue base. Top with 2 pounds mixed summer fruits such as raspberries, strawberries or loganberries.
SERVES 6 to 8.
Robert Gardiner, head chef of Ardsheal House, at Kentallen of Appin, Argyll in Scotland’s Highlands loves the fine quality of the summer fruits of his country, especially the big, luscious raspberries. He developed this soufflé to take advantage of their goodness in summer. He freezes a supply so that he can make his favorite soufflé long after the season is over.
Butter and superfine sugar for the soufflé molds
2 cups raspberries
1 tablespoon lemon juice
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 large egg yolks
8 egg whites
Pinch of salt
Heavy cream (optional)
Butter eight ½-cup soufflé molds generously, making sure the rims of the molds are well coated. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. Repeat this process, then coat the insides of the molds with sugar. Refrigerate until ready to use.
In a blender or food processor combine the raspberries, lemon juice and ½ cup confectioners’ sugar and process until smooth. Add the egg yolks and blend for 30 seconds longer. Scrape the purée into a large bowl. Set aside.
In another bowl beat the egg whites with the salt until they stand in soft peaks. Add 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating constantly. Beat for about 30 seconds longer after the sugar has been added, or until the whites are stiff and shiny. Mix one quarter of the egg whites into the raspberry purée, then fold the raspberry mixture gently but thoroughly into the egg whites. Spoon the soufflé mixture into the prepared molds and arrange on a baking tray. Bake in a preheated hot oven (425°F.) for 8 to 9 minutes, or until they are puffed and lightly set. Serve immediately with the heavy cream, if liked.
SERVES 8.
Another Scot, Campbell Cameron, head chef of Culloden House at Invemess, Scotland, created this dish using the native drink, Scotch, and marmalade, also credited to Scotland. It makes a very luscious hot dessert.
1 cup milk
¼ cup sugar
1 small egg yolk
1½ tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons marmalade
2 large eggs, separated
4 tablespoons Scotch whisky
½ cup heavy cream
Confectioners’ sugar
Pour the milk into a small saucepan and bring it to just under a boil. In a bowl cream together the sugar and the egg yolk until it makes a ribbon. Stir in the flour and mix well. Pour in the milk, stirring constantly. Transfer the contents to the saucepan and simmer, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Stir in the marmalade, egg yolks and 2 tablespoons whisky. Beat the egg whites until they stand in firm peaks. Fold gently but thoroughly into the egg-yolk and milk mixture and spoon into four 1-cup soufflé molds. If liked, the molds may be buttered and sprinkled lightly with sugar before being filled. Bake the soufflés in a preheated moderately hot oven (400°F.) for 13 minutes, or until lightly set and well risen.
Serve with a sauce made from ½ cup lightly whipped heavy cream flavored with 2 tablespoons Scotch whisky and confectioners’ sugar to taste, if liked. Serve the soufflés hot as soon as they are cooked.
SERVES 4.
NOTE: I prefer the hot soufflé without the sauce, but I have found that when chilled the soufflé makes a most pleasant dessert with the cream and whisky sauce, even though it falls and loses its looks.
This is a very Scottish recipe, reflecting Murdo MacSween’s feeling for his native Scotland, but it is not just traditional; it has the special MacSween touch and is very much his creation. He is now head chef at Oakley Court near Windsor, in Berkshire.
1⅓ cups oatmeal
2 cups heavy cream, whipped
4 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons golden syrup, or corn syrup if golden syrup is not available
4 tablespoons Scotch whisky
Sprinkle the oatmeal onto a baking sheet and toast in a preheated moderate oven (350°F.) for 5 to 10 minutes, or until lightly colored. In a bowl combine the oatmeal and all the rest of the ingredients, mixing gently but thoroughly. Spoon the mixture into 6 dessert dishes and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving. The oatmeal will expand and the mixture be very thick.
SERVES 6.