Side Dishes – Those Under-Rated Little Gems

‘Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.’

HARRIET VAN HORNE

My philosophy is fairly simple: your side dish is the little gem your guests discover soon after they’ve tucked into the main meal. I cannot emphasise this enough: side dishes must complement and enhance your main dish.

A variety of these little gems have truly earned their place on Cape Malay tables over the years. You just cannot do justice to an old Cape Malay favourite such as Denningvleis (p. 32) without mashed potato. Neither, for that matter, Fish Cakes (p. 43) without dal and a tomato smoortjie, nor liver without braised onions.

The recipes in this section contain some old classics from my father’s childhood, passed on to me, as well as a few new additions that I am really proud to share. These recipes are a wonderful introduction to cooking for anyone who is a bit of a novice in the kitchen. The recipes are easy to follow, the techniques are fairly simple and the cooking time isn’t lengthy. In fact, the efforts of your time spent preparing these little gems will show almost instantly.

My father would always remind me when I started cooking that ‘the expert in anything was once a beginner’. So if you’re going to give cooking a go, you may as well start here!

Mom’s Mash

A silky smooth mash requires you to cook the potatoes to tender perfection. There is also a nifty trick I’ve discovered that sounds almost absurd but, trust me, you’ll see (and taste) the difference.

It’s important to use a masher when you start mashing your boiled potatoes, but once you start adding the milk, change the utensil to a whisk. You can mix this with an electric mixer, but I find it extremely comforting and cathartic doing this by hand. As you gradually pour in the warm milk and whisk the already softened potatoes, you’ll notice the texture starts changing to a fluffy, feathery light mashed potato. My boys love this little gem so much that they christened it Mom’s Mash (apparently no-one in the whole wide world can make this dish quite like their Mom does!). SERVES 6–8

• 4 C (1 litre) water
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 6 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
• 2 Tbsp (30 ml) butter
• 1⁄4 tsp (1.25 ml) baking powder
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) warm milk
• 1⁄2 tsp (2.5 ml) grated nutmeg for garnish

1. 1.Fill a medium-sized pot with the water, add the salt and boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes over a high heat.
2. 2.Reduce the heat to medium and boil for a further 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
3. 3.Drain the potatoes and place back into the pot.
4. 4.Add the butter and baking powder.
5. 5.Use a masher to pound the potatoes until they have been broken down and are fairly soft.
6. 6.Switch from the masher to a whisk, gradually add the milk and whisk vigorously to get rid of any lumps.
7. 7.Continue to check the consistency of the mixture – it should be smooth and silky and you should be able to form peaks with the whisk.
8. 8.Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with a good sprinkling of freshly grated nutmeg.

Easy-peasy Spuds

My son, Tashreeq, loves these spuds! I often make these with roast chicken and they’re also an ideal accompaniment to any braai (barbecue). Completely hassle free and simple and, like all potato-based dishes, it provides absolute comfort – for little boys and their grandfathers! SERVES 6

For the topping

• 1 C (250 ml) sour cream or crème fraîche
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) chopped fresh chives
• 1⁄4 tsp (1.25 ml) dried tarragon

For the spuds

• 6 large potatoes, washed and rinsed, and lightly pierced with a fork
• Salt to taste
• 1 tsp (5 ml) crushed black pepper
• 1 tsp (5 ml) butter per potato

Preparing the topping

Simply mix everything together in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

1. Preparing the spuds
2. 1.Place the oven rack on the middle shelf in the oven and preheat the oven to 180 °C.
3. 2.Place the potatoes on a baking tray and gently prick or pierce the potatoes before baking to prevent the skins from cracking. Turn down the heat to 180 °C as soon as the spuds are in the oven and bake for 45–60 minutes, or until slightly soft and the skins are golden brown.
4. 3.Remove the baked spuds from the oven.
5. 4.While still on the baking tray, make an incision lengthways and gently squeeze the sides of the potato until it opens up and the starchy white flesh becomes visible.
6. 5.Cut the butter into small cubes and insert into the incision.
7. 6.Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add a spoonful of the topping mixture to each potato.

Potato Bake

This dish, also known as potato gratin, is a firm favourite in our household and possibly the essential accompaniment to our weekend braais (barbecues). Both potato and vegetable bakes are rich and creamy comfort food – a must-have for family gatherings! SERVES 6–8

• A knob of butter for greasing
• 1 clove garlic, crushed
• 6–8 medium potatoes, peeled, rinsed and thinly sliced
• 1⁄2 tsp (2.5 ml) salt
• 1 tsp (5 ml) dried Italian herbs or thyme
• 1 C (250 ml) fresh cream or cooking cream
• 1 C (250 ml) grated Cheddar cheese
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. 1.Place the oven rack on the middle shelf in the oven and preheat the oven to 180 °C.
2. 2.Use a medium-sized, rectangular ovenproof dish and generously grease the dish with the knob of butter.
3. 3.Sprinkle the garlic in the dish, add the potato slices and sprinkle with salt and herbs. Give it a good mix with your hands and pat it down evenly to smooth out the layers of potato.
4. 4.Pour the cream over the potatoes and ensure that all the potatoes are well coated.
5. 5.Sprinkle the grated Cheddar cheese generously on top of the potato and cream mixture.
6. 6.Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes.
7. 7.Uncover the potato bake and sprinkle the grated Parmesan, if using, over the top. Bake, uncovered, for a further 15 minutes.
8. 8.Remove from the oven. The cheese should now be melted and the top should be golden. Serve hot.

Warm Tomato Relish (Gesmore Tamatie)

Whenever I made this warm tomato relish, my father would call out from where he was sitting: ‘Don’t forget to add a green chilli.’ It’s an essential ingredient to this humble little side dish. The tomato relish really does need that hint of heat to cut through the acidity of the tomatoes and sweetness of the sugar. It must be slow-cooked and, by Cape Malay decree, must accompany frikkadelle or Fish Cakes (p. 43) or fried fish. Use fresh, very ripe tomatoes for this dish. SERVES 4–6

• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) vegetable, canola or sunflower oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 green chilli, halved lengthways
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 4 large tomatoes, chopped
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) sugar

1. 1.Heat the oil over medium heat, add the onion and sauté for 8–10 minutes until translucent and slightly golden.
2. 2.Add the chilli and salt to the fried onions and cook for 1–2 minutes, stirring continuously.
3. 3.Add the chopped tomatoes and continue to cook, covered, over a medium heat for at least 25 minutes.
4. 4.Add the sugar and reduce the heat to a low setting. Allow this to simmer and all the ingredients to amalgamate for a further 10 minutes.
5. 5.Give the tomato relish a good stir, check for seasoning at this stage and adjust to individual taste.
6. 6.Serve hot.

Rice

Rice is a Cape Malay staple and this little gem accompanies almost every traditional Cape Malay dish. The idea of a Cape Malay favourite such as Denningvleis (p. 32) without sweet yellow rice or Fish Cakes (p. 43) without gesmore rys is simply unheard of.

My biggest challenge when I started cooking was to cook white or fragrant rice. Back then it was extremely frustrating and disheartening because every attempt ended up in a big ball of mush. Before I knew it I developed a fear of cooking any rice dish that involved white rice. So I steered clear of cooking dishes like akni or Biryani (pp. 134–135) and wouldn’t even attempt something less traditional like a paella or Spanish rice. But this fear has long since passed and, to echo an ancient Chinese proverb: ‘Without rice, even the cleverest housewife cannot cook’.

Here’s to rice in all its glorious forms.

Here’s how to attain my version of perfectly cooked rice:

• I hardly soak or rinse the rice before I cook it. The only time I rinse and soak rice is if I am making a rice-based dish.
• Use a pot that is big enough to accommodate the rice once it starts expanding. Bring the rice, water and salt to the boil, then lower the heat to medium and allow the rice to simmer gently.
• Use the correct ratio of water to rice – this is easy to work out because you can follow the instructions on the packaging of the rice you’ve bought.
• Cook rice without a lid, otherwise the starch starts foaming and it becomes a really messy affair.
• Rinse the rice in a colander under running tepid or lukewarm water until the boiling water is rinsed out and there are no traces of starch left behind.
• The final stage is to allow the rice to rest in the colander. This allows any excess water to drain.
• If you’re heating rice in a microwave oven, make sure that the rice is covered with either a lid or plastic wrap. This locks in the heat, distributes it evenly and allows the rice to become fluffier.
• If you’re using a pot to heat the rice before serving, then you will require patience when using this method. Ideally the rice should be warmed over a medium heat. My recommendation is to warm the rice over a medium to low heat, possibly add 1–2 Tbsp (15–30 ml) water and allow to cook for about 20 minutes.
• For rice dishes such as savoury rice, pilaf, biryani or akni I simply cook the rice with a measured amount of water, allow it to come to a simmer and then turn off the heat. Ensure that the pot is covered because the steam inside will finish off the cooking process. Allow the rice to rest, as it will slowly start absorbing the water, leaving very little moisture behind.
• Finally, if you have achieved beautifully cooked rice, then any accompanying dish served with it will be elevated in taste and flavour.

White Parboiled Rice

My grandmother only cooked parboiled rice and so I grew up eating only this type of rice. The only brand she used was Tastic Rice and it was cooked until the rice was fluffy and light. Today our family still prefers parboiled rice with our bredies, smoortjies and even our curries. Parboiled rice is perfect for savoury rice dishes and paella.

• 1 C (250 ml) white parboiled rice
• 4 C (1 litre) water
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt

1. 1.Place the rice in a medium-sized pot. Add the water and salt and bring to the boil.
2. 2.Cook, uncovered, over high heat for 30–45 minutes until the rice has plumped up and has almost doubled in size.
3. 3.Remove from the heat and transfer to a colander or strainer.
4. 4.Rinse under tepid water until all the starch and boiling water have disappeared.
5. 5.Set aside in the colander for another 10 minutes as this allows further moisture to evaporate and the final traces of water to drain.
6. 6.Transfer the rice to a serving bowl, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and heat in the microwave oven on high for 5–7 minutes before serving.

Plain White Basmati or Jasmine Rice

Basmati rice is ideal for curries, Biryanis (pp. 134–135) and aknis. It holds the sauce of a curry really well and its flavour often balances out the spiciness. In rice-based dishes such as biryani and akni, it lifts the flavours of the aromatics and meat even more and provides all the moisture that can easily be lost when cooking these kinds of dishes with parboiled or brown rice.

Jasmine rice is served with Thai and Chinese dishes and goes well with stir-fries. In the Cape Malay Quarter it’s often served with curries or bredies or any of the Cape Malay dishes that have a fair amount of gravy. Jasmine rice holds the sauce really well and seems to enhance the flavour of any dish.

• 1 C (250 ml) white basmati or jasmine rice
• 4 C (1 litre) water
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt

1. 1.Place the rice in a medium-sized pot. Add the water and salt and bring to the boil.
2. 2.Cook, uncovered, over a high heat for about 20 minutes.
3. 3.Remove from the heat and transfer to a colander.
4. 4.Rinse under tepid water until all the starch and boiling water have disappeared.
5. 5.Set aside in the colander for another 10 minutes as this allows further moisture to evaporate and the final traces of water to drain.
6. 6.Transfer the rice to a serving bowl, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and heat in the microwave oven on high for 5 minutes before serving.

Braised Rice (Gesmore Rys)

This braised rice dish almost always accompanies fried fish or Fish Cakes (p. 43). The flavour of this rice is derived from the braised onions and the addition of aromatics such as cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. The fragrant rice is finished off with a few knobs of butter to add richness to its already aromatic taste.

• 2 Tbsp (30 ml) vegetable, canola or sunflower oil
• 2 medium onions, thinly sliced
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 3 cardamom pods, slightly bruised
• 3 C (750 ml) cooked parboiled rice
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 2 tsp (10 ml) butter

1. 1.Heat the oil in a medium-sized pot over a high heat. Add the onions, cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods.
2. 2.Braise the onions for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently to ensure that the onions are well coated with oil and develop a golden colour and crisp texture.
3. 3.Turn the heat down to medium and fry for a further 5–10 minutes.
4. 4.Add the cooked rice, salt and butter.
5. 5.Cook, covered, over a medium heat for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to a lower setting and steam the rice for another 10 minutes.
6. 6.Give this a good stir and do a taste test before serving as the rice may need more salt.

Sweet Yellow Rice

Sweet yellow rice, also referred to as almond yellow rice, is a traditional Cape Malay rice dish commonly served with bobotie, Sunday roasts and frikkadelle (meatballs). The sweetness of the rice is really what appeals to everyone, and even if the rice is made without the almonds or sultanas it will never be prepared without a really good addition of sugar! The butter gives a glossy appearance and provides a lovely rich flavour.

• 2 C (500 ml) water
• 1 C (250 ml) long-grain rice
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 1⁄2 tsp (2.5 ml) turmeric
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 2 cardamom pods, slightly bruised
• 50 g butter
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) sultanas
• 2 Tbsp (30 ml) white sugar
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) toasted flaked almonds

1. 1.Place the water in a medium-sized pot or saucepan and bring to the boil over a high heat.
2. 2.Add the rice, salt, turmeric, cinnamon sticks and cardamom pods and cook, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender.
3. 3.Drain the rice in a colander under tepid running water. This stops the rice cooking any further and keeps the grains separate.
4. 4.You can use the same pot for the rest of the cooking process. Over a medium heat, melt 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of the butter to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
5. 5.Add half of the cooked rice as the first layer.
6. 6.Sprinkle 1⁄4 C (60 ml) of the sultanas on top of the rice and add 1 Tbsp (15 ml) of the sugar.
7. 7.Place the remaining rice on top of this layer along with the rest of the sultanas and sugar. Dot with the remaining butter to give the rice an even glossier finish. Finally garnish with the toasted flaked almonds.
8. 8.Finish off by steaming the rice over medium/low heat for about 10 minutes, folding lightly before serving. You can do a taste test at this point and add more sugar if you prefer it sweeter.

Cape Malay Roti

My mom taught me how to make roti and when it came to roti ingredients, she refused to skimp on the butter used for this recipe. As a little girl, I would happily sit in the centre of the kitchen floor, munching on a warm roti while watching her fry up the rest. My lips and cheeks would be covered in roti flakes and my little hands would glisten with traces of the ghee! SERVES 6–8, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE

For the oil and butter mixture (ghee)

• 150 g butter
• 3⁄4 C (180 ml) vegetable, canola or sunflower oil

For the dough

• 3 C (750 ml) cake flour
• 1⁄2 C (125 ml) self-raising flour
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 3 Tbsp (45 ml) butter, at room temperature
• 1 C (250 ml) boiling water, cooled slightly

Preparing the ghee

Place the butter in a bowl and melt in the microwave oven. Once melted, stir in the oil and then set aside.

Preparing the dough

Step 1

1. 1.Place the flours, salt, butter and warm water into a mixing bowl and use the handle or back of a wooden spoon to mix the ingredients together.
2. 2.The flour will cool the water and make it easier for you to work with using your hands to mix and knead the dough.
3. 3.You should have a very sticky dough. In fact, it is ideal to have the dough moist because you can always add additional flour to get it to the consistency that you require.
4. 4.Knead the dough to form a fairly soft and pliable texture.
5. 5.Use a pastry brush to grease a bowl with the ghee before placing the warm dough in the bowl.
6. 6.Cover this with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 20–30 minutes.

Step 2

1. 1.Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and roll it to resemble a thick log (4–5 cm thick should do). Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into 6–8 even portions.
2. 2.In the meantime, rub a little oil onto your hands. Take the dough balls and very lightly coat them with ghee, using your hands. This assists with keeping the dough balls moist.

Step 3

1. 1.Use a rolling pin and roll out one of the dough balls into a thin circle. Try and get the layer of dough rolled out as thinly as possible.
2. 2.Dip the pastry brush into the ghee and spread it generously over the flat layer of dough.

Step 4

1. 1.Take the one end of the dough and roll it up to form a thin rope.
2. 2.Simply take the ends of the dough rope and ever so gently lift and tap it on the surface you are working on. Stretch it a little as you are tapping it against the work surface, thus making it more pliable.
3. 3.Lay the dough rope back onto the working surface.

Step 5

1. 1.We’re getting ready now to form the S-shape of the roti. Roll up the ends of the dough rope, one side clockwise and the other anti-clockwise. Once they meet to form the ‘S’, fold one half of the ‘S’ (either top or bottom) flat on top of the other.
2. 2.The dough should now resemble a moist and round spiralling disc. Place this on a glass plate and repeat with the rest of the dough balls, using the same method as before.
3. 3.Cover the raw roti balls with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 1 hour before frying.

Step 6

1. 1.Heat a pan or roti skillet over high to medium heat and brush the surface with ghee.
2. 2.Roll out the roti discs to about 20 cm in diameter or to the size of a smallish dinner plate.
3. 3.Place the roti in the pan and brush lightly with ghee, then flip it over after 2–3 minutes. Repeat this step once or twice or until the roti is golden and partially crispy. Remember to brush lightly with ghee every time you flip the roti.

Step 7

1. 1.Remove from the pan and lay the roti on a flat surface. Bring the edges together with your palms like you’re gently scrunching or wrinkling the roti to fluff it up.
2. 2.Place on a serving plate and serve with hot curry.

Indian Tomato, Onion and Chilli Salad

This tomato and onion relish is not as tart as the Cape Malay one. It’s a perfect accompaniment to curries, akni or Biryani (pp. 134–135). I often add a teaspoon of chaat masala, which adds another dimension to the flavour of the salad. SERVES 4–6

• 2 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1 large red onion, finely chopped
• 1 green chilli, finely chopped
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1⁄2 tsp (2.5 ml) sugar
• 1⁄4 tsp (1.25 ml) freshly ground black pepper
• 1⁄4 tsp (1.25 ml) salt
• 1 tsp (5 ml) chaat masala (optional)
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) roughly chopped fresh coriander

1. 1.Place all the ingredients in a glass bowl and toss together.
2. 2.Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.
3. 3.Do a taste test and adjust seasoning before serving.

Cape Malay Tomato and Onion Salad

I grew up eating uiwe en tamatie slaai (onion and tomato salad) with bredies, curries, akni and Biryani (pp. 134–135). This salad was also always served at weddings and certain Aunties would be commissioned to prepare it. It’s popular, traditional and reminds almost all of us of home! SERVES 4–6

• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 tsp (5 ml) salt
• 1 large ripe tomato, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, finely chopped
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) sugar
• 3 Tbsp (45 ml) brown or white vinegar
• 1 Tbsp (15 ml) finely chopped fresh coriander

1. 1.Place the onion in a colander and add the salt. Gently rub and massage the salt into the onion for about 1 minute.
2. 2.Rinse the onion under cold water and place in a bowl.
3. 3.To this add 2 C (500 ml) boiling water and set aside for a few minutes.
4. 4.Place all the remaining ingredients in a serving bowl and give them a good stir.
5. 5.Drain the onion in a colander and squeeze out any excess water. Add the onion to the rest of the ingredients and mix well.
6. 6.Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.
7. 7.Do a taste test and adjust seasoning before serving.