The Florida Keys have some of the best fish and shellfish in the world. Many varieties are staples on the menus, including a few Keys specialties: conch, stone crabs, Keys pink shrimp, and Florida lobster. Many chefs in the Keys, who have worked in restaurants around the world, commented to me on the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture of the fish. Their dishes are wonderful because the fish is so fresh. When making these recipes, be sure to buy the very freshest fish available and substitute it in the recipes.
The Florida Keys also provide one of the best sportfishing areas of the world, and the local chefs take advantage by serving some of the more unusual fish species, such as tilefish and cobia. Hawks Cay Resort and Marina on Duck Key is home to many of the charter boats that fish in this famous area. Sportfishermen flock to the Keys to enjoy game fishing. The captains like to cook the fish they catch, too, and they’ve shared their special recipes here.
Knowing how to cook fish is as important as knowing how to buy it. The section entitled “Hints on Cooking Fish” will help you prepare these and your own fish recipes.
You’ll find a recipe here to suit any mood, whether it’s fish on the grill, sautéed with a Key Lime Butter Sauce, or broiled with spicy salsa. Everything you need to enjoy the bounty of the seas is here.
Landlubbers are not left out in the Keys. Meat and poultry are served in a variety of Keys recipes. Charlotte Miller at Hawks Cay Resort braises her pork in sangria and uses it to make delicious sliders or serves it with polenta. Michael’s Stuffed Veal Chops is a special treat, and Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen’s Churrasco Steak with Tijuana Sauce keeps her customers coming back for more. Jennifer Cornell created Sesame Almond Chicken with Mango Banana Chutney by incorporating local flavors. And then there’s jerk chicken that has drifted from Jamaica to the Keys, with its delicious, sweet, and spicy blend of herbs.
Florida lobster is also called spiny lobster or spiny crawfish. This shellfish is easily recognized by the prominent spines on its body and five pairs of legs. Unlike the Maine lobster, it does not have claws. The body is discarded and the large, meaty tail can be boiled, broiled, steamed, deep-fried, or grilled. Lobster season is controlled and runs from August 6 through March 31. Frozen Florida lobster tails are sold all over the United States and will work well in these recipes.
Stone crabs, with their large red and black claws, are a Florida institution. Only the claws are taken from the crabs when they are caught. The bodies are thrown back into the water, where they will grow a new claw within about eighteen months. The claws are cooked either on the fishing boats or as soon as they are brought in from the boats. Fresh stone crab claws cooked to order are best, but this luxury is available only to those who catch them or know someone who does. The claws cannot be reheated. They take on an ammonia taste if they are.
In an interview with me on my South Florida National Public Radio program, Joanne Bass, granddaughter of Joe Weiss, the original owner of the famous Joe’s Stone Crab restaurant on South Beach, related her story of how stone crabs became a Florida treasure. A Harvard professor came to Joe with a bag of live stone crabs and asked if they could be boiled or what he could do with them. Joe decided to throw them in a pot of water and boil them. They were a hit. Later, he developed a method of cooking and chilling the claws. They’re now served throughout the United States and beyond.
Blue crab fishing is popular in the Upper Keys, and many crabs are caught right along Card Sound Road in Key Largo. They can be found in salt and fresh water from Cape Cod to Florida and in abundance in the bays and estuaries of the Gulf of Mexico and Chesapeake Bay. You can buy jumbo lump crabmeat in a can or frozen for the recipes here.
“Pink gold” is what the natives of the Keys call these shrimp. They’re big, juicy Key West pink shrimp. When I first saw them, I asked the girl behind the fish counter why the raw shrimp were pink. The surprised girl said, “I’ve never seen them any other color.” Fresh shrimp play a large role in Keys cooking. Shrimping became an important industry in the Keys in the 1970s. If you don’t have pink shrimp, these recipes will work very well with any type of shrimp.
Conch (pronounced “konk”) is a spiral-shaped gastropod. It lives in a large spiral shell and can be very tough. It needs to be tenderized before use. It can also be eaten raw. One Keys friend tells me that he used to go out fishing with his grandparents and take along all the fixings for a conch salad. They would catch the conch and eat it right there on the boat. Today, because they have been over-fished, it is illegal to fish for conch off the United States coast. As a result, we now get our conch imported and frozen. Those of you on the West Coast will find that the recipes work well with abalone substituted for conch.
There are several schools of thought on whether conch should be tenderized or not. I have eaten raw or marinated conch and it was beautifully tender. I have also eaten cooked conch and couldn’t chew it at all. Much depends on the quality and freshness of the conch. The color of the meat should be white with pink and orange edges. It should not smell fishy. To be on the safe side, ask for the conch to be tenderized when you buy it. There is a machine that does the job in seconds. If tenderizing at home, first cut off the orange fin and foot. Trim off any dark pieces of skin. Then slice the conch in half lengthwise to make it thinner. Place the meat between two pieces of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet or the bottom of a bottle, pound diagonally in one direction and then again in the opposite direction.
Conch is a term used to describe the British who lived in Key West during the time of the Revolutionary War and didn’t want to fight against England. During the War, they fled to English colonies such as the Grand Bahamas and then drifted back to Key West in the 1830s. They were seafarers and conch was their staple food. The shell was used as a horn and as a symbol on their clan standards. Today, natives of long standing adopt the name, but this angers the descendants of the so-called real Conchs. One legend holds that in the days of the buccaneers, unknown ships would hoist a friendly conch shell to the foremast to gain entry to a port. More often than not, they would enter the harbor, raise the Jolly Roger, and sack the settlement.
On April 18, 1982, the United States border patrol set up a roadblock in Florida to prohibit illegal aliens from entering the country. The Keys were treated as a foreign land, and people entering or leaving had to prove United States citizenship. On April 23, 1982, in mock protest, Key West declared its independence from the United States and called itself the Conch Republic.
Grouper is the generic name for 162 known fish species. They are members of the same family as sea bass. White-fleshed and firm, they keep their shape and moisture when cooked. Some of the species have become overfished and can only be caught at certain times of the year.
There are about 150 species of snapper. Hogfish, yellowtail, and mutton are very popular in the Keys. Their delicate flesh doesn’t keep well, even when placed on ice, so the fresher the better. Their fillets are so sweet they don’t need much cooking. The hogfish is a special Keys delicacy. The head actually resembles a pig’s snout, and they are said to grunt in the water.
Dolphin is a light, white fish and, due to its name, is often confused with the mammal of the same name. So, it is now often called by its Hawaiian name, mahimahi. On my first trip to the Keys, I was introduced to this delicious, flaky fish by my next-door neighbor. Every day around five, his boat would return to his dock and he would start to clean his catch. When the pelicans began to congregate, waiting for leftover tidbits, I knew he was back. One day I finally asked him what type of fish he caught. On many evenings after that, I found a beautifully cleaned fillet of dolphin on my doorstep.
Tuna are members of the mackerel family, but their taste is very different. In fact, even among the many species of tuna, the taste can vary considerably. Yellowfin tuna is also called by its Hawaiian name, ahi tuna, and is used widely in raw tuna dishes. Blackfin tuna is the smallest tuna species. Both are delicately flavored and worth searching out; they work well with the recipes here. Yellowfin and blackfin tuna can be found in local markets in the Keys and bought from local fishermen at the end of their fishing day. The dark-meat bonito tuna is strong tasting and I prefer not to use it. Be sure to use tuna that is as fresh as possible. If serving raw tuna, ask for yellowfin sushi-grade tuna.
Cobia is a large fish, weighing from thirty to fifty pounds. It is often mistaken for shark, as it is found near the surface and close to shore. Cobia is a game fish and very good to eat. The meat is firm and white. It is a good fish to smoke. Cobia is served in the Keys when local fishermen show up at restaurants to sell their catch of the day.
One secret to enjoying great fish is to buy the freshest fish possible. The other secret is knowing how to cook it. Overcooked fish can be dry and tasteless. Here are some hints on cooking fish successfully.
Grilling fresh fish brings out its natural flavor. The beautiful Keys weather is perfect for grilling year-round. You can light up the grill and cook outside and watch the sunset. However, grilling has become a year-round sport for everyone, even in the snow. So here are some tips.
Make sure your grill grates are clean. Preheat the grill about 5 minutes before cooking. Oil the fish and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. To tell whether the fish is cooked, press it with a finger. The fish should break into firm flakes.
Whole fish or firm-textured fish such as swordfish or tuna steaks is best for grilling. Fragile fish or thin fillets can fall apart and are difficult to move or turn on the grill. It’s best to leave the skin on and start with the skin side down. Using a grill rack or grill topper is helpful, since it can be moved around on the grill and helps prevent the fish from sticking to the grill grates. If a whole fish is very thick, make a couple of diagonal slashes across the body on both sides so the heat will penetrate better.
1/2-inch fillet, over direct heat: 2 minutes per side
3/4-inch fillet, over direct heat: 2 to 3 minutes per side
1-inch fillet, over direct heat: 4 to 5 minutes per side
Avoid overcooking whole fish and steaks by placing the fish in the center of the grill, over direct heat, and searing them. Turn to sear the second side and then move the fish to the edge or to indirect heat. A general rule of thumb is to cook fish for ten minutes for each inch of thickness, measured in the thickest part of the fish. Remember that the fish will continue to cook in its own heat for a few minutes after it is removed from the grill.
Poaching means to cook fish in a liquid, usually a white wine and water bath, in order to help preserve its moisture. This is an excellent method of cooking fish that will be served cold or at room temperature. The liquid should just cover the fish and be brought only to a simmer. Do not let the liquid boil; it will make the fish rubbery. If you are going to serve the fish cold or at room temperature, then undercook it and remove the pan from the heat. Let the fish cool in the liquid and it will remain juicy and tender.
Be sure to preheat the broiler. I put a baking sheet or pan in to preheat as well. This way the radiant heat from the pan will cook the fish on the bottom and it will not need turning. Broil about 4 to 5 inches from the heat.
Frying is very popular in the Keys. It seals in the juices and creates a tasty outer coating. It’s important to use fresh, clean frying oil. I prefer to fry fish at between 350°F and 375°F. If the oil is not hot enough, the fish will absorb it and become heavy. If the oil is too hot, the outer coating will burn and the inside won’t be done. Fry just a few pieces at a time so they won’t stick together, and you’ll be able to control the cooking. Serve fried fish immediately. If left to sit, the trapped steam that is keeping the fish moist will escape, making the crust soggy. A piece of fish that is 1 to 2 inches thick will fry in 2 to 3 minutes. Larger pieces will take only a few minutes longer.
This method is best for fillets or flatfish. Make sure you use a heavy-bottomed pan so that the heat is evenly distributed. Melt the butter or oil so that it covers the bottom of the pan, and do not use a lid. Sauté the fish until it is a golden color on both sides.
SERVES 4
Chef Charlotte Miller from Tom’s Harbor House at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key mentioned that she grew up in an international house on the college campus where her parents worked. She learned about many exciting ethnic flavors there. For this dish, she makes her own Thai green curry sauce and combines it with sweet Keys pink shrimp. She says you can also buy green curry sauce, found in the ethnic section of many markets, to make this dish. She serves the dish over Steamed Rice with a sweet coconut flavor and with Stir-Fried Broccoli Slaw.
Green curry paste is also available in markets. If using the paste, mix 1 tablespoon paste with 4 ounces canned unsweetened coconut milk.
1 stalk lemongrass, white part only
1/2 bunch cilantro, stems removed
1/2 bunch fresh mint, stems removed
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded
4 ounces unsweetened coconut milk
Or:
1 cup bottled green curry sauce
Blend the lemon grass, cilantro, mint, garlic, ginger, and jalapeño pepper together in a food processor. Add the coconut milk and blend to a smooth sauce.
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 pounds peeled shrimp
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the shrimp. Toss for 1 minute. Add the sauce and stir for 2 minutes or until the shrimp turn red.
1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup water
1 cup basmati rice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 scallions, sliced
Bring the coconut milk and water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the rice and boil for 5 minutes. Cover with a lid, and turn the heat down to very low. Steam for 20 minutes. Do not open the lid during this time. Fluff the rice and add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the scallions on top.
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 package broccoli slaw (about 12 ounces)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. Add the broccoli slaw and soy sauce. Stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes. The broccoli will still be slightly crisp. Add salt and pepper to taste.
SERVES 4
When the Green Turtle Inn’s executive chef, Andy Niedenethal, cooked for President Bush, Sr., the president declared Andy’s barbecue “the best in or out of Texas.” That’s high praise from a Texan. Serve up Chef Andy’s barbecued shrimp the next time you have a hankering for barbecue.
He uses fresh Key West pink shrimp. Buy the best-quality shrimp you can find for this recipe.
2 teaspoons canola oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1/4 cup blackened seasoning
6 ounces good lager or beer
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 to 3 drops hot pepper sauce
1/2 pound butter (2 sticks), cut into 2-tablespoon pieces
Cayenne pepper to taste
32 large Key West pink shrimp, heads and shells on
1 loaf Cuban or sourdough bread
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat and add the garlic. Cook for 1 minute or until tender. Add the blackened seasoning and cook for 30 seconds, just enough to toast the seasoning. Deglaze the pan with the beer (add the beer and scrape up the brown bits in the bottom of the pan). Add the Worcestershire and hot pepper sauce. Bring to a boil and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Whisk the butter into the sauce and let it come back to a boil. Remove from the heat and adjust the seasoning, adding cayenne pepper, if needed. Let the sauce cool to room temperature. Reserve.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. When the sauce has cooled, place the shrimp in a baking dish large enough to hold the shrimp in one layer. Whisk the sauce—it will have separated while cooling—and spoon over the shrimp. Let marinate for 20 to 25 minutes.
Place the baking dish in the oven for 5 to 10 minutes depending on the size of the shrimp. The shrimp are done when firm to the touch, bright pink on the outside, and white, not opaque, all the way through. Remove from the oven and place the whole dish on the table or spoon onto separate dishes. Serve with lots of napkins and bread to soak up the sauce.
SERVES 4
Sigmund “Ziggy” Stocki bought a building that was once an outbuilding of a pineapple plantation at MM 83 and turned it into Ziggy’s The Conch restaurant. It became known throughout the Keys for its excellent cuisine and the unusual style of the owner. Ziggy insisted on no menus. Each waiter recited the menu and you had to listen to it all. After Ziggy’s death, his son and wife ran the restaurant. Today it’s owned by former Dolphin football player Jim “Mad Dog” Mandich and Randy Kassewitz, who continue the tradition of great food. Executive Chef Ben Coole gave me this recipe from their menu named for his daughters, Maya and Lina.
Chef Ben suggests you serve the dish over linguine or rice.
1 pound butter, softened
1 teaspoon chopped red onion
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped scallions
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, crushed
24 jumbo shrimp, peeled
1 cup white wine
3 diced pimientos
20 grape tomatoes, cut in half
4 tablespoons crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
4 tablespoons shredded Romano cheese
Mix the butter, onion, parsley, scallions, lemon juice, and garlic together. Heat the garlic butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp, wine, pimientos, and tomatoes. Sauté for 5 minutes or until the shrimp just turn pink. Remove from the heat and sprinkle the Gorgonzola and Romano cheeses on top. Let melt in the heat of skillet. Serve over linguine or rice, dividing the shrimp and sauce among 4 plates.
SERVES 4
Optometrist Jim Boilini’s first love is food. He has been involved in the Key Largo Cook-off for almost thirty years. When a restaurant became available in the center where his office building is located, he couldn’t resist the chance to open his own restaurant. He calls it Doc’s Diner, and he actually cooks there himself one or two evenings a week. I found he had added a touch of New Orleans to his diner with this delicious Shrimp Étouffée.
1 1/4 cups butter, divided use
2/3 cup flour
3/4 cup chopped green bell pepper
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
4 garlic cloves, crushed
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon Cajun seasoning
1/2 cup chopped parsley
2 dashes hot pepper sauce
4 cups water or clam juice
2 cups canned diced tomatoes with juice
2 pounds peeled shrimp
1/2 cup butter
Salt to taste
Melt 3/4 cup butter in a skillet over low heat. Add the flour. Make a light brown roux by stirring constantly until the color is reached, about 10 minutes. Do not let the flour burn. Place the green bell peppers in a microwave for 30 seconds or place in boiling water and drain immediately. Add the onion, green bell pepper, celery, and garlic to the roux. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the black pepper, cayenne pepper, Cajun seasoning, parsley, and hot pepper sauce. Mix well. Add the water or clam juice and tomatoes with juice. Stir well. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, gently, for 15 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup butter and blend in. Serve over rice.
SERVES 4
Sitting on the afterdeck at Louie’s Backyard just feet away from the emerald green and azure blue ocean with a gentle ocean breeze is a special treat in Key West. This charming restaurant sits practically on the southernmost point of the United States. It was the home of Captain James Randall Adams, who made his fortune salvaging goods from wrecked ships. He boasted that everything in the home was salvaged. It was bought and turned into a restaurant in 1971. Phil and Pat Tenney now own it. Chef Doug Shook has been making kitchen magic there for over twenty years. He uses local ingredients to create bright, fresh dishes that are served in this casual, elegant restaurant.
Using sweet, fresh Key West pink shrimp and slow-cooked grits, this southern dish, Shrimp and Grits, is a delicacy at Louie’s Backyard.
2 1/2 cups milk
2 1/2 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup stone-ground grits
4 tablespoons butter
2 cups grated white cheddar cheese
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 cup diced cooked bacon
6 tablespoons butter, divided use
36 shrimp, peeled and deveined (Doug leaves tails on)
3 cups quartered button mushrooms
Juice from 2 lemons (about 4 tablespoons)
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
Bring the milk and water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Add a little salt and pepper to taste. Add the grits and cook over a low flame for about 1 hour, stirring often. Add more warm water if the pan becomes too dry. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter, cheese, and cayenne pepper. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat until brown. Remove, drain on a paper towel, and dice. Pour the grease out of the skillet and add 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. When the butter sizzles, add the bacon, shrimp, and mushrooms. Cook until the shrimp color, about 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle the lemon juice into the skillet and add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter and chopped parsley. Shake the pan until the butter incorporates with the lemon juice.
Spoon the grits onto 4 plates and place the shrimp on top of grits.
Note: you can use mild olive oil and butter instead of all butter. The shrimp takes only minutes to make and should be made last-minute. The grits can be made a few hours ahead and gently heated by adding a little warm water and stirring constantly.
SERVES 4
Andre Mueller’s Marker 88 at MM 88 is one of the Upper Keys’ fixtures. Although he has retired, he keeps a keen eye on the restaurant and stops by often. The Stocky family now own Marker 88 along with several other Upper Keys restaurants. They suggest serving this seafood dish over pasta or rice.
1/4 pound butter (1 stick)
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons sherry
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Pinch dried oregano
Pinch dried thyme
1/2 pound linguine
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tablespoons key lime juice
3 tablespoons bottled buffalo wing sauce
1/2 cup diced tomatoes
1 lobster tail, shell removed and cut into 1-inch pieces
12 peeled shrimp
3 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat
1/4 cup sliced scallions
Allow the butter to soften, cut into large pieces, and place in the bowl of an electric mixer or food processor. With the mixer running, slowly add the wine, sherry, and lemon juice. Mix to a thick cream and add the oregano, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste.
Bring a large saucepan filled with water to boil over high heat. When boiling, add the linguine, and cook for 3 minutes if fresh or 8 minutes if dried. Drain.
Mix the garlic, key lime juice, and wing sauce together in a skillet. Add the tomatoes and butter sauce. Place over medium-high heat. Add the lobster tail and shrimp. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until the shrimp are pink and the lobster cooked through. Do not overcook the shellfish. It will become rubbery. Add the crabmeat and cook for 1 minute to warm the crabmeat. Serve over pasta and sprinkle the scallions on top.
SERVES 4
Elegant yet casual describes The Fish House Encore Restaurant in Key Largo. Doug Prew and CJ Berwick, partners in The Fish House Restaurant next door, opened Encore in response to requests from their patrons for a white-tablecloth restaurant. Encore has the tablecloths, crystal, and a grand piano, but has also kept the Keys’ laid-back tropical ambiance.
“Cracked” means the conch has been tenderized. Ask for it to be tenderized when you buy it or you can easily do this at home. Cut off the orange fin and foot. Slice the conch in half lengthwise to make it thinner. Pound the conch with a meat mallet or the bottom of a bottle. Go diagonally in one direction and then again in the opposite direction.
1 pound conch
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1/4 pound unsalted butter (1 stick), divided use
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Tenderize the conch and place it in the bowl of a food processor. Finely chop the conch. Form the conch into 4 flat cakes. Wrap individually and freeze.
Once the conch is frozen, remove from the wrapping. Place the flour on a plate and coat each cake on both sides with flour. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl and dip the floured conch cakes into the beaten egg. Heat 4 tablespoons butter in a skillet over high heat. Add the conch cakes and brown for 2 minutes. Turn and brown for 2 minutes. Pour off the butter, leaving the conch cakes in the pan. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter, white wine, lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste to the skillet. Cover with a lid and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the conch cakes to 4 plates and pour the pan juices over them. Sprinkle parsley on top.
SERVES 4
The Key Largo Conch House is a family-run restaurant and gift shop. This recipe, a favorite of the Key Largo locals, was created by Laura Dreaver, owner of this Victorian-style Keys restaurant.
When buying conch, ask for it to be tenderized. Most conch comes to the United States frozen and is either sold that way or defrosted in the seafood case. It needs to be tenderized. Most seafood departments will do this for you. If not, remove the orange foot and fin, cut in half lengthwise and pound the conch with a meat bat diagonally in one direction and then again in the opposite direction. This sauce will also go well with shrimp or lobster.
1 1/2 pounds conch, cut into medium-size pieces
Salt and black pepper to taste
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine (Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris)
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons key lime juice
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Season the conch with salt and pepper to taste. Place the flour on a plate and dip the conch pieces to dust lightly with the flour. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the conch. When the conch pieces are lightly browned on one side, about 2 minutes, turn them over and brown the other side, 2 minutes. Remove the conch to a platter.
Add the butter and garlic to the skillet. Cook until the butter starts to turn golden. Add the wine and scrape up the brown bits in the skillet. Add the capers, key lime juice, and pepper. Reduce slightly. While the sauce reduces, mix the cornstarch and water together. Add to the sauce and bring to a boil to thicken.
Divide the conch among 4 plates and spoon the sauce over the conch. Sprinkle parsley on top.
SERVES 4
“Spiny lobsters have to be prepared just right or they will be tough,” Key West Grand Café chef Paul Menta told me. He has two loves: cooking and kiteboarding. When he’s not in the kitchen, he has a kite sailing school and, combining both loves, writes a cooking column for Kite Magazine.
Here are his preparation tips:
Lay the lobster tail flat on a table, hard shell side up.
Feel the high point of the shell. Using a sharp chef’s knife, place it in the middle of the high point and tap it to break the shell, being careful not to touch the lobster meat. Once the shell is broken, squeeze the sides of the lobster to finish opening the shell. The lobster is ready for the stuffing.
4 spiny lobster tails
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped shallot
2 tablespoons key lime juice
2 teaspoons sugar
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Open the lobster tail on the hard shell side. Pull apart. Mix the olive oil and cilantro to make a paste. Add the shallot. Divide the stuffing into 4 portions and fill each lobster tail opening. Close up the shell so you can only see the crack in it. Place the lobsters on a baking tray and bake for about 13 to 15 minutes.
Mix the key lime juice and sugar together. Remove the lobsters from the oven and take the meat out of the shell along with the stuffing. Place on plates and spoon the sugar mixture over them.
SERVES 4
Florida lobsters are a Keys treasure. The season starts with a two-day sport mini season. It’s always the last Wednesday and Thursday of July, and people head out at midnight on the Tuesday before to be the first to catch their lobsters. It’s a chance for noncommercial fishermen to bag a few lobsters under strict rules during the two days. The actual season runs from August 6 through March 31. The Key Largo Fisheries sells out daily of every Florida lobster that comes in. Dottie Hill, who started the fisheries with her husband, Jack, gave me her favorite lobster tail recipe.
1/2 cup herb bread stuffing mix
1/4 cup water
2 teaspoons butter
3/4 cup jumbo lump crabmeat
4 Florida lobster tails
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sprinkling of garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 tablespoons melted butter
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Mix the stuffing mix, water, and butter together in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high for 30 seconds. Stir and add the crab. Mix well. Place the lobster tails, hard shell down in a baking pan. With scissors, remove the thin shell facing you by cutting along each side. Season the meat with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with garlic powder. Spoon the stuffing mixture onto the tail, pressing it in place. Sprinkle the thyme and caraway seeds over the stuffing. Pour the melted butter over the stuffing. Bake for 10 minutes. Check to see if the bread crumbs are starting to burn. If so, cover the tails with foil and continue to bake for 10 more minutes. The lobster should be white, not translucent.
SERVES 4
A & B Lobster House has a prime spot with stunning views overlooking the Key West Bight, a part of Key West Harbor. You can reach it by walking along the Harbor Walk. Founded in 1947 by two men whose last names were Alonzo and Berlin, it’s still getting accolades today. Chef Phil Heimer won best appetizer at the Master Chef Competition for his lobster escargot. I’ve adapted his recipe for home cooking.
1 8-ounce sheet frozen puff pastry (about 8 × 9 inches)
2 eggs
1/2 pound butter (two sticks), divided use
4 large garlic cloves, crushed
8 small shallots, chopped
1/4 pound sliced shiitake mushrooms
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup sliced cremini mushrooms (or button mushrooms)
4 ounces clam juice
4 ounces lemon juice
4 ounces white wine
12 ounces Maine lobster meat, cut into small pieces
1 pound escargot (snails)
2 cups heavy cream
3 cups diced tomatoes
Defrost the puff pastry until it is pliable. Preheat the oven to 400°F. When the pastry is ready, gently roll out the sheet to measure 10 × 12 inches. Cut 4 circles about 5 inches in diameter. Cut a hole out of the center of each circle about 3 inches in diameter, making a center circle and outside ring. Place the ring and the center circles on an ungreased baking tray. Break up the eggs and brush them over the pastry. Bake for 10 minutes or until the pastry is puffed and golden. Place on 4 plates.
Heat 8 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and shal-lots. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Add both kinds of mushrooms and sauté until tender. Add the parsley, clam juice, lemon juice, and white wine. Cook until reduced by half and then add the lobster meat and escargot. Cook for 1 minute, add the cream, and reduce until slightly thick. Add the remaining 8 tablespoons butter and stir to melt into the sauce. Add the diced tomatoes. Spoon the sauce into the center of each of the pastry rings and place the cooked puff pastry circle on the top.
Note: Shrimp works well in this recipe as a substitute for the lobster.
Escargot (snails) can be found precooked in a can.
SERVES 2
Sitting on the terrace of Salute Restaurant in Key West, I couldn’t help but think this is certainly a special corner of paradise. Richard Hatch, who also owns Blue Heaven, transformed a little-known restaurant into a delightful indoor and open-air treasure. The restaurant sits right on the beach, with views of the beach, the water, and lots of people watching. Richard suggested I try his mussels made with white wine and a touch of garlic.
4 pounds mussels*
2 tablespoons butter, divided use
4 medium garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine (Chablis)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Rinse the mussels under cold water. Tap any open ones. If they do not close, discard them.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat and add the garlic. Sauté the garlic until it just starts to brown. Add the wine and black pepper to taste. Add the mussels and cover the saucepan tightly. Raise the heat to high, bring the liquid to a boil, and let boil for about 3 minutes. The wine will boil up over the mussels and they will open. As soon as they are open, take the pan off the heat. Whisk in the second tablespoon of butter to thicken the sauce. Sprinkle parsley on top. Serve the mussels and broth in large soup bowls. Discard any mussels that do not open when cooked.
Note: Figure about 2 pounds mussels per person. Store the mussels in the refrigerator. The commercially raised mussels available today are cleaner than they used to be. Just wash them in cold water before using. Scrape off the beard or thin hairs along the shell. This is how the mussel attaches itself to rocks.
*Salute uses Rhode Island green mussels. The secret is to use really fresh mussels of the best quality you can find.
SERVES 4
Sitting on the terrace of the Alma Restaurant at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key, I was sipping a cool glass of white wine and looking out at the ocean. It was only natural that I decided to order a bowl of fresh mussels as the perfect accompaniment. I was happily surprised by a mussel dish with new flavors. Chef Tony Glitz served me his Latin-inspired mussels cooked with chorizo and garlic. What a treat!
Chorizo is a pork sausage made with smoked paprika. There are many varieties. Any type of smoked sausage can be used.
4 pounds mussels
1 cup diced chorizo sausage
4 medium garlic cloves, crushed
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups fish broth or bottled clam juice
8 red grape tomatoes
8 yellow grape tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lemon cut into 4 wedges
Potato sticks (optional garnish)
Rinse the mussels under cold water. Tap any open ones. If they do not close, discard them. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mussels, chorizo, garlic, and butter. When the mussels start to open (about 3 minutes), add the fish broth and tomatoes. Sauté for 2 more minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Divide the mussels and sauce among 4 large soup bowls. Discard any that do not open. Add a lemon wedge to each plate. Garnish with potato sticks.
2 large russet potatoes
Oil for frying
Kosher salt to taste
Peel the potatoes and cut into julienne sticks about 2 inches long and 1/4 inch thick. Place them in a bowl with ice-cold water to cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels. Heat the oil in a deep fryer or large saucepan over high heat to 360°F. Fry the potatoes for about 3 minutes or until they are golden. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with kosher salt. Serve alongside the mussels as a garnish.
SERVES 4
“When I’ve had a long day and want something quick and easy for dinner, I make these mussels and scallops,” Dottie Hill from the Key Largo Fisheries told me. She’s right. This one-pot dish is easy and fast. By the time your rice is cooked, the dish will be ready. Dottie says the recipe is equally good using all scallops, mussels, or shrimp instead of the combination.
Dottie suggests serving this dish over rice.
1 pound mussels
2 lemons
1/2 cup butter
6 tablespoons bottled, chopped garlic
2 cups white wine
1/4 cup drained capers
1 pound scallops
4 scallions, sliced
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Rinse the mussels under cold water. Tap any open ones. If they do not close, discard them. Slice one lemon and juice the second one. You should have about 1/4 cup of juice. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the butter, garlic, and wine. Reduce by half. Add the lemon juice, lemon slices, capers, and mussels. Stir until the mussels open, about 2 to 3 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and add the scallops and scallions. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Mix the cornstarch and water together. Add to the sauce and stir until the sauce thickens slightly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve over rice, discarding any mussels that don’t open.
SERVES 4
Sheila Sands is a fifth-generation Conch. Her family were sponge fishermen in Key West for generations. She told me they would make a fish boil with the fish her father brought home from a day on the water. “Most islanders have two jobs and no time to cook elaborate dinners,” she mentioned, “and this dish is quick and easy.” The recipe changed with the ingredients available. Sometimes it was made with rice and other times with potatoes. She mentioned that it was difficult to get and keep potatoes, so her family usually used rice.
Old sour sauce is passed on the side. It’s used in Key West as a condiment. It can be found in some specialty stores, or follow the recipe below.
1 1/2 pounds firm white fish fillets (grouper, mahimahi, cod, or other thick white fish)
1/2 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter
4 cups water
1 cup diced onion
1 cup diced green bell pepper
2 or 3 bird peppers* (the heat is up to you)
1/4 cup long-grain white rice
Wash the fish and squeeze the lemon juice over the fillets. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Add the butter, water, onion, green bell pepper, bird peppers, and rice to a large saucepan. Bring the water to a boil over high heat and cook for 8 minutes. Add the fish and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover with a lid and simmer gently for 6 to 7 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. The flesh will flake easily. Do not boil the water or the fish will become tough. Serve old sour sauce at the table to sprinkle over the fish.
2 cups lime juice
1 tablespoon salt
2 bird peppers* (optional)
Combine the ingredients and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks. Use as a condiment on fish or chicken.
*These are small hot peppers, less than 1 inch long and very hot. Any type of hot pepper or hot pepper sauce can be used instead.
SERVES 4
This seafood stew looks as pretty as it tastes. Chef Wolfgang Birk from Alma Restaurant at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key created this dish from the seafood bounty of the waters surrounding them. His creative recipes are as attractive as they are delicious.
Make the sauce and rice first and then complete the recipe. Hot chili paste can be substituted for the red curry paste. Use it sparingly depending on the type of paste. Boniato is a type of white-fleshed sweet potato. Other types of sweet potato can be used. Chayote looks like a green gnarled pear and is a member of the squash family. Squash can be substituted.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 cups sliced shallots
1 cup sliced lemongrass
9 whole, peeled garlic cloves
3/4 tablespoon red curry paste
3 cups canned coconut milk
Salt
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, lemon-grass, and garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the red curry paste and stir into the vegetables. Add the coconut milk. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat to medium, and cover with a lid. Simmer for 15 minutes. Pour into a blender jar and blend to puree the ingredients. Strain and set aside.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup jasmine rice
2 cinnamon sticks
4 cups water
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the rice and sauté for 1 minute. Add the cinnamon sticks and water. Bring to a simmer, lower the heat to medium, and cover with a lid. Cook for 15 minutes. Check to see if more water is needed. Cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and add salt and pepper to taste.
2 cups boniato cubes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups chayote cubes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup carrot cubes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Add the vegetables and bring the water back to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 pound swordfish
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound Florida or spiny lobster
1/2 pound peeled shrimp
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup fat-free, low-sodium chicken broth
8 scallions cut into 1/8-inch pieces
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the swordfish and sauté for 4 minutes. Turn and sauté for 3 minutes for a 3/4-inch-thick fish. Remove to a plate and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the lobster from the shell and add to the skillet. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and continue to sauté the seafood, turning it over a few times as it cooks. Sauté for 2 minutes or until the shrimp and lobster turn pink. Remove to the plate with the swordfish and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Raise the heat to high and add the wine. Reduce the wine by half. Add the chicken broth and continue to reduce the liquid by half. Add the lemongrass sauce to the skillet and simmer for 2 minutes.
Place the rice in 4 large soup dishes or on a large dinner plate. Add the vegetables and seafood to the dishes, and pour the sauce over them.
SERVES 4
Chef Charlotte Miller from Tom’s Harbor House at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key loves to go fishing on the boats from the marina behind her restaurant. She also loves to cook the fish she catches. Hogfish is a very delicate fish. The fillets are thin and become rubbery if overcooked. Chef Charlotte cooks her hogfish fillets on one side only. This way they develop a crisp crust and remain creamy inside.
Any type of delicate white fish fillet, such as flounder, can be used. A general rule for cooking fish is about 8 minutes per inch of thickness. This amount of time will prevent overcooking. The fish will continue to cook slightly after it is removed from the heat.
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter, divided use
1 1/2 pounds hogfish fillets
Juice from 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons chopped chives
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup sliced shallots
2 cups diced tomatoes, about 1/4 inch
1/4 cup white wine
1 tablespoon mango puree* (optional)
Heat 1/4 cup butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the hogfish and sauté for 4 minutes. Remove to a plate, drizzle the lemon juice over the fillets, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the chopped chives. Cover with foil to keep warm.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the same skillet. Add the garlic and shallots. Sauté for 1 minute. Add the white wine. Cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook for 2 minutes or until the liquid is absorbed. Stir in the mango puree. Add salt and pepper to taste. Divide the hogfish among 4 plates and spoon the tomatoes over the top and on the side.
*Mango puree can be found frozen in some markets. Pureed pineapple or ripe peaches can be used instead.
SERVES 4
I first met Dottie Hill while researching my book, Keys Cuisine. Her Baked Hog Snapper (also known as hogfish) was delicious. I recently talked with her at her Key Largo Fisheries. She said, “I’ve changed the recipe to speed it up by using a microwave oven. I’m too busy to wait for the oven.” Here’s her new method.
2 pounds hog snapper or any white fish fillets
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 sliced green bell pepper
2 sliced tomatoes
1 medium onion, sliced
1/2 cup white wine, divided use
4 slices Provolone cheese
Place the fish fillets in one layer in a microwave-safe baking dish. Test to make sure the dish fits into your microwave oven. Mix the oil and garlic together. Drizzle over the fish. Sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Place the green pepper, tomatoes, and onion over the fish. Pour 1/4 cup white wine into the dish. Microwave on high for 5 minutes. Remove and pour or spoon out the white wine. Add the remaining 1/4 cup white wine and cover the fish with the Provolone slices. Microwave for 2 more minutes or until the cheese melts. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4
Kaiyo restaurant in Islamorada is a little gem serving what they call Florida-infused Asian cuisine. This light and simple hogfish dish was created by Chef Michael Ledwith. He told me his sous chef, Jean, is the king of savory chutneys and sauces.
Yuzu is an Asian citrus fruit. It’s tart and tastes like a mixture of grapefruit and orange flavors. If you can’t find yuzu, two tablespoons lime juice mixed with 1/2 tablespoon honey will work well as a substitute.
Any type of delicate white fish fillet, such as flounder, can be used. A general rule for cooking fish is about 8 minutes per inch of thickness. This amount of time will prevent overcooking. The fish will continue to cook slightly after it is removed from the heat.
2 pounds hogfish fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 egg
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
1/2 cup macadamia nuts (lightly toasted and chopped)
1 cup canola oil
1/2 cup mango chutney
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons yuzu juice (or lime juice)
1/2 tablespoon honey
Wash and pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Mix the egg and milk together in a bowl. Place the flour on a plate and dip the fish in the flour, making sure both sides are covered. Then dip in the egg and milk mixture. Mix the bread crumbs and macadamia nuts together on another plate. Coat the fish with the bread crumbs, pressing the crumbs into the flesh.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over high heat or heat in a deep fryer to 350°F. Carefully place the fish in the hot oil and cook for about 3 to 5 minutes or until the fish is golden. Remove and place on paper towels to drain. Mix together the mango chutney, mayonnaise, yuzu, and honey. Divide the fish among 4 dinner plates and serve with the sauce.
SERVES 4
Perched overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Lazy Days Restaurant is the perfect spot for casual dining with great views of the ocean. The owner, Lupe Ledesma, is there making sure each guest has a great meal. He and his family came to the Keys from Mexico and operate several restaurants successfully. Lazy Days draws a large, appreciative crowd from Islamorada and farther afield for a good reason. Lupe will cook your catch any way you like it. His Key Lime Butter Sauce served over fish or chicken had me wanting to lick my plate.
1 cup water
1/4 cup dry white wine (Chablis)
1 tablespoon key lime juice
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Freshly ground white pepper to taste
1/4 pound butter (1 stick)
3 teaspoons water
3 teaspoons cornstarch
2 eggs
2 tablespoons water
1 cup flour
2 cups panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
2 pounds white fish fillet (hogfish, grouper, yellowtail snapper, sole)
1 cup diced tomatoes
1 cup sliced scallions
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons parsley
Place the water, wine, and key lime juice in a large saucepan over high heat and reduce by half, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic powder. Add pepper to taste. Cut the butter into pats about the size of 1 tablespoon. Reduce the heat to low. Add one pat butter and whisk until the butter is incorporated. Add another pat and continue until all of the butter is used. Mix the water and cornstarch together and add to the sauce. Raise the heat to medium and stir until the sauce thickens and a few bubbles appear. Set aside while the fish cooks.
Mix the eggs and water together in a small bowl. Place the flour on a plate and dip the fish fillets into flour, coating both sides. Dip the fish into the egg wash. Place the bread crumbs on a second plate and coat the fish with bread crumbs, making sure both sides are coated. Heat 4 tablespoons of the Key Lime Butter Sauce over medium-high heat in a skillet large enough to hold the fish in one layer. Add the fish and sauté for 4 minutes. It should be golden. Turn the fish and sauté for 4 minutes for 1-inch-thick fillets. Sauté 2 minutes longer for thicker fish or 2 minutes less for thinner fish. The fish is cooked when the flesh is opaque, not translucent.
Place the fish on 4 dinner plates. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Sprinkle the tomatoes, scallions, Parmesan cheese, and parsley over the fish.
SERVES 4
While riding their bikes in Key West, John Correa and his wife, Judy, saw a FOR RENT sign in the middle of a beautiful bougainvillea bush at the corner of Southard and Francis Streets. He thought it was a perfect spot for a restaurant. The owner, however, only wanted to rent to someone who made great food. John had to cook for his lease. He had been a chef in the South of France near Marseilles and felt that the Keys climate and native fish suited his style of cooking. His Hogfish with Red Pepper Zabaglione has become his signature dish. He obviously passed the test, because Café Sole opened and has been a success ever since.
Any type of delicate white fish fillet, such as flounder, can be used. A general rule for cooking fish is about 8 minutes per inch of thickness. This amount of time will prevent overcooking. The fish will continue to cook slightly after it is removed from the heat.
2 red peppers
4 tablespoons dry white wine
4 egg yolks
3/4 pound melted butter
Splash lime juice
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon powdered garlic
1 teaspoon dried onion
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon dried parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter
4 8-ounce hogfish fillets (tilapia, sole, or sea bass can be used)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast the red peppers under a broiler or on a grill and turn to make sure all sides are blackened. Remove and place in a bowl. Cover with foil and let the peppers steam. Remove the seeds and skin and coarsely chop.
Meanwhile, place the bottom of a double boiler or saucepan half filled with water over medium-high heat. Add the wine and egg yolks to the top of a double boiler. Place over the hot water. Whisk the mixture until it starts to thicken. If the sauce starts to break down or curdle, add 1 or 2 tablespoons boiling water to stabilize it. Slowly add the butter, whisking constantly. When all of the butter has been incorporated, add a splash of lime juice and mix in the roasted red pepper.
Reset the oven to 350°F. Mix the bread crumbs, cumin, garlic powder, onion, sugar, and parsley together on a plate. Add salt and pepper to taste. Rinse the fish and press into the bread crumbs, making sure both sides are covered. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and add the fish. Sauté for 1 to 2 minutes and turn. Sauté the second side for about 1 to 2 minutes. Can be made a half hour ahead to this point. If finishing immediately, place the skillet in the oven for 3 to 4 minutes to finish cooking. If made in advance, preheat the oven to 350°F before needed and place the skillet in the oven for 7 to 8 minutes.
Divide the sauce among 4 plates. Place the fish over the sauce.
I make a quick sauce in the blender. It takes only seconds and is almost always successful.
Place the wine and egg yolks in a blender. Melt the butter until it is foaming but not burning. With the motor running, very slowly pour the butter into the blender. Watch the mixture to be sure it is thickening. Stop pouring and let the machine run for a few seconds if it looks too thin. Add a splash of lime juice and continue to blend. Remove the sauce to a bowl and fold in the roasted red pepper.
The sauce should be made last minute. If made an hour ahead, gently rewarm it over warm water, whisking constantly. Be careful, or it may break down or curdle.
SERVES 4
“We only buy fresh, whole fish and cut it ourselves. That way we know we are getting the best fish,” Doug Prew, co-owner of The Fish House in Islamorada, told me. He has a fish cutter who does nothing but cut fish all day. They sell out of hundreds of pounds through their restaurants and fish market. Doug’s partner, CJ Berwick, gave me the recipe for this best-selling dish.
4 6- to 8-ounce fish fillets (hogfish, snapper, sole, or other delicate white fish)
2 tablespoons canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup white wine
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 tablespoons butter
Preheat the broiler. Place the fish on a baking tray. Spoon the oil over the fish and add salt and pepper to taste. Broil 5 inches from the heat for 5 minutes. Turn the fish over and broil for 3 minutes for a 1-inch-thick fish. Broil 2 minutes longer for thicker fish or 2 minutes less for thinner fish. While the fish broils, heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the garlic and cream and reduce the sauce by half. Add the basil, black pepper, and butter to the skillet. Stir to melt the butter. Remove the fish to 4 dinner plates and spoon the sauce over the fish.
SERVES 4
Riding on his bicycle to meet me at his 915 Duvall bistro and wine bar, Stuart Kemp fit right into the easy lifestyle of Key West. He’s the chef/owner of this charming restaurant located in a 1906 vintage Victorian house. He says the Keys have some of the best fish he’s ever prepared, which is saying a lot for a transplanted Englishman.
In the summer, Kemp serves his Key West Snapper on its own. In the winter he turns it into a heartier dish with his Parsnip Puree (p.203).
2 cups water
1 tablespoon salt
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
For mayonnaise dressing:
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 cups shaved fennel, fennel leaves reserved for garnish
1 cup cored and thinly sliced Granny Smith apple
1/4 cup flour
4 6-ounce hog snapper (also called hogfish) fillets (any type of snapper or light white fish can be used)
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 tablespoons fennel leaves
Mix the water and salt in a small bowl and add the onion. Marinate for 10 minutes; rinse and drain.
To make the mayonnaise, place the egg yolk in a small bowl and whisk in the Dijon mustard. Add salt and pepper to taste. When the yolk is creamy, slowly add the oil, a little at a time, whisking constantly until the sauce thickens. Whisk in the lemon juice. Place the drained onion, shaved fennel, and apple in a bowl. Spoon half the mayonnaise into the bowl and toss to coat the ingredients. Add more mayonnaise if needed. Store the remaining mayonnaise for another time. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the flour on a dish and coat both sides of the fish with flour. Shake off any excess flour. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fish, skin side down. Brown for 1 minute. Turn over and brown for another minute. Place the fish, skin side down, on a baking tray. Place in the oven for 15 minutes to finish cooking. It’s done when the fish starts to flake.
Divide the salad among 4 plates. Place a fish fillet over each salad, garnish with fennel leaves, and serve.
SERVES 4
The Beach Grill at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key is a great place to enjoy great food while relaxing with your toes in the sand. Chef Henry Christian serves this dish two ways. Make the sauce and serve with the fish or serve the fish with a tomato-cucumber salsa. Both options are given. Influenced by his Italian background, Chef Henry serves the sauce over pasta.
Black grouper is a large fish native to the Florida Keys. It’s a tasty, firm white fish. Any type of firm white fish can be used.
Grouper is so popular that certain types have become a restricted catch and can only be fished at certain times.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup chopped shallots
2 cups coarsely chopped yellow tomatoes
1 cup coarsely chopped Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves or 2 teaspoons dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a medium-size skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer until all of the juice from the tomatoes evaporates, about 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the amount of water in the tomatoes. Add the Parmesan cheese, lower the heat, and gently cook for 25 minutes. The cheese will blend into the sauce. Add the oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Spoon over grilled fish.
1 cucumber, peeled and seeds removed
1 large yellow tomato
1 large red tomato
1/4 cup key lime juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Cut the cucumber and tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice. Place in a bowl and add the key lime juice and salt and pepper to taste. Toss well and serve over the fish.
1 1/2 pounds black grouper fillets
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Brush the fish with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Place on a hot grill, close the lid, and grill for 10 minutes. If using a grill without a lid, turn the fish over after 5 minutes. The fish should flake easily and will be creamy on the inside. Serve with the sauce or the salsa.
SERVES 4
Martin Busam came to Key West from the Black Forest in Germany and found he wanted to adapt his cooking style to fit with Key West ingredients and the warm sunny climate. He opened Martin’s on Duval. He calls his food German Island Cuisine and says, “People are surprised by my Champagne Kraut, but I just say it’s fitting for the bubbly, Key West lifestyle.”
Grouper is so popular that certain types have become a restricted catch and can only be fished at certain times. Any type of meaty fish can be used for this recipe.
The base of the Dijon topping is a hollandaise sauce. I make a quick sauce in the blender. It takes only seconds and is almost always successful. The recipe is below.
4 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, sliced (about 3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups canned sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
1 cup champagne or enough to bind kraut
3 tablespoons dry white wine
2 egg yolks
1/2 pound soft butter (2 sticks)
Splash lemon juice
1/2 tablespoon fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons butter
4 6-ounce grouper fillets
Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the flour and blend well. Add the sauerkraut and cook to warm through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the champagne and mix well to bind the ingredients together.
Meanwhile, place the bottom of a double boiler or saucepan half filled with water over medium-high heat. Add the wine and egg yolks to the top of a double boiler. Place over hot water. Whisk the mixture until it starts to thicken. If the sauce starts to break down or curdle, add 1 or 2 tablespoons boiling water to stabilize it. Slowly add the 1/2 pound soft butter, whisking constantly. When all of the butter has been incorporated, add a splash of lemon juice. Add the bread crumbs and Dijon mustard. Mix well.
Preheat the broiler. Place the flour on a plate and add salt and pepper to taste. Place the fish in the flour and turn to coat both sides. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet large enough to hold the fish in one layer over medium-high heat. Add the fish and sauté for 5 minutes. Turn and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes. Spoon the Dijon sauce over the fish. Place under the broiler for 1 minute or until the crust begins to brown. Serve with the champagne kraut.
Place the wine and egg yolks in a blender. Melt the butter until it is foaming but not burning. With the motor running, very slowly pour the butter into the blender. Watch the mixture to be sure it is thickening. Stop pouring and let the machine run for a few seconds if it looks too thin. Add a splash of lemon juice and continue to blend.
The sauce should be made last minute. If made an hour ahead, gently rewarm it over warm water, whisking constantly. Be careful, or it may break down or curdle.
SERVES 4
Tom’s Harbor House Restaurant at Hawks Cay Resort overlooks one of the Keys’ best sportfishing marinas. Chef Charlotte Miller buys her fish for the restaurant right outside her door. She uses wreck grouper for this dish, so named because they are often found in deep water around shipwrecks and reefs. It’s a very large fish with a white flesh and sweet flavor. She says any type of grouper, mahimahi, or thick sea bass can be used.
Grouper is so popular that certain types have become a restricted catch and can only be fished at certain times.
1 cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1/4 cup flour
1 1/2 pounds grouper fillets
1/4 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
Oil to reach 1 inch in a skillet
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup mango or pineapple cubes
Mix the mayonnaise and horseradish together in a bowl. Place the flour on a plate and dip the grouper into the flour and then into the mayonnaise mixture, making sure all sides are coated. Place the bread crumbs on a second plate and dip the fish into them, coating all sides. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the grouper. Cook for 5 minutes, turn, and cook for 5 minutes for 1-inch fillets. The fish should be golden. Remove to 4 dinner plates and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Puree the mango or pineapple in a food processor. Spoon the puree on the side.
SERVES 4
A back injury kept Captain Bill Whitney on shore for a short stint. It turned into an interesting time for him. He worked as a chef at Cheeca Lodge and while there cooked for the first President Bush, who was a frequent visitor to the Keys and liked to go backcountry fishing. Captain Bill made this grouper recipe and served it to the president. He says President Bush thought it was the best grouper he’d ever had. After making it, I can see why. The grouper is lightly dusted with blackened seasoning, and fresh salmon is sandwiched between two grouper fillets. The result is a creamy salmon center and just a hint of the blackened seasoning with a surprise hint of fennel. Here’s the dish he served to President Bush.
Grouper is so popular that certain types have become a restricted catch and can only be fished at certain times. Any type of meaty fish can be used for this recipe.
Captain Bill made the dish by cutting the grouper into round medallions and flattening them. Fresh salmon is sandwiched between two grouper medallions. He then places the stuffed medallion in 5 1/2-inch rings and places them in the refrigerator so the medallions will keep their shape. You can make the recipe without the forms. Simply cut the grouper fillet and salmon the same size. The result is delicious, if not round.
1 3/4 pounds grouper fillets (or meaty fish such as mahimahi or cod)
3/4 pound salmon fillets
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons blackened seasoning
2 tablespoons butter
Cut 8 4-inch-round medallions out of the grouper. Cover them with plastic wrap and pound them flat to about 5 1/2-inch circles. Cut 4 5-inch medallions out of the salmon fillet to fit over the grouper. Sprinkle fennel seeds over the salmon and salt and pepper to taste. Sandwich each salmon piece between 2 grouper medallions. You will now have 4 salmon-stuffed medallions. Sprinkle the blackened seasoning over the grouper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, covered.
Melt the butter in a large skillet and carefully add the medallions. Sauté for 4 minutes. Turn over and sauté for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and serve on 4 plates.
SERVES 4
Charter captain Jim Perry fishes out of Hawks Cay Resort and Marina. He loves to fish and cook. When the fish is large and thick, he bakes it in a very hot oven. He says, “The key to moist, baked fish for this recipe is the sour cream.”
1 3/4 pounds fish fillets (grouper, mahimahi, cod, or other thick white fish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup chopped Vidalia or red onion
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 egg
1 cup plain bread crumbs
Preheat the oven to 475°F. Grease a large baking tray. Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Mix the sour cream, onion, garlic, and egg together in a bowl. Place the bread crumbs on a plate. Dip the fish in the sour cream mixture and then in the bread crumbs and back in the sour cream mixture. Place on a baking tray. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Divide into 4 portions and serve on 4 plates.
SERVES 4
Charter fishing boats Tailwalker and Tailwalker 2 are located within some of the best Keys fishing grounds at Hawks Cay Resort and Marina. Numerous reefs and wrecks form feeding grounds nearby. Charter captain Scott Walker, owner of the Tailwalker boats, has been fishing at Hawks Cay Resort and Marina for more than thirty years. He fishes only for varieties he can eat. “I like to grill large fish like tuna and wahoo,” he told me.
1 3/4 pounds thick white fish fillets (grouper, mahimahi, cod, or other thick white fish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup bottled Italian dressing
1/4 cup bottled teriyaki sauce
Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Mix the Italian dressing and teriyaki sauce together in a saucepan. Add the fish and marinate for 5 minutes, turning once during that time. Remove the fish from marinade, leaving the sauce in the pan. Preheat the grill. Place the fish over direct heat. Grill for 3 minutes. Turn and grill for 3 minutes. While fish the cooks, heat the sauce in the pan for 3 minutes. Divide the fish into 4 portions and place on 4 plates. Spoon the sauce on top.
What could be better than eating fresh grilled fish while sitting by the ocean with palm trees overhead and a light breeze? The Beach Grill at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key serves up grilled fish just that way. Here are three different sauces for grilled fish that you can enjoy at home.
(For tips on grilling fish, see p. 103)
EACH RECIPE SERVES 4
Grilling locally caught fish is a treat. I know it’s really fresh when all I can smell is the sea rather than the fish. Grouper is locally caught in the Keys, and the Beach Grill can pick up their grouper right at the Hawks Cay Resort Marina.
Grouper is so popular that certain types have become a restricted catch and can only be fished at certain times. Any type of meaty fish can be used for this recipe.
Grilling pineapple slices caramelizes them. The sweet pineapple, fresh mint, and a touch of coconut rum make this a pineapple salsa that sparkles with flavor.
Flavored rums can be bought in small bottles or splits at many liquor stores. These are great for the small amounts needed in recipes.
1 1/2 pounds grouper or other fish fillet
2 tablespoons jerk seasoning
4 1/2-inch slices fresh pineapple
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons coconut rum
Olive oil spray
Sprinkle the fish with jerk seasoning, pressing it into the flesh. Set aside.
Preheat the grill. Place the pineapple slices over direct heat. Grill for 3 minutes or until the slices show grill marks and begin to caramelize. Turn and grill for 3 minutes. Remove to a chopping board and cut into about 1/4-inch dice. Place in a bowl and add the mint and coconut rum. Toss well.
Spray the fish with olive oil spray and place over direct heat. Grill for 3 minutes, turn, and grill for 3 minutes for 3/4-inch-thick fillets. Divide into 4 portions on 4 plates, spoon salsa on top of the fillets, and serve.
Chef Tony Glitz says swordfish grills up just like steak. He prefers it medium-rare. A balsamic glaze finishes the dish.
Balsamic glaze can be found in some supermarkets. Or, use Chef Tony’s recipe here to make your own.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups sliced red onion
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar, divided use
1 1/2 pounds swordfish steaks
2 tablespoons golden raisins
1 tablespoon honey
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Mix the olive oil, red onion, and 1/4 cup vinegar together in a bowl or self-seal plastic bag. Add the swordfish and marinate for 15 minutes, turning once during that time. Meanwhile, pour the remaining 1/4 cup vinegar, raisins, and honey in a saucepan. Stir to combine. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the liquid for 3 to 4 minutes. Strain and set the glaze aside.
Preheat a grill. Remove the swordfish from the marinade and place over direct heat. Grill for 3 minutes, turn, and grill for 2 minutes for 3/4-inch-thick steaks. Divide into 4 portions and place on plates. Drizzle the glaze over the top and sprinkle with parsley.
Cobia is a local fish that Chef Tony enjoys when it occasionally comes in. It’s a firm white fish with great flavor. Chef Tony suggests using any firm white fish, such as mahimahi or cod. He also prefers Roma tomatoes for the best flavor.
1 1/2 cups diced Roma tomatoes
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 pounds firm white fish fillets (cobia, mahimahi, cod)
Place the tomatoes, basil, and garlic in a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to combine. Set aside.
Brush the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over the fish. Preheat the grill. Place the fish over direct heat for 3 minutes. Turn and grill for 3 minutes for 3/4-inch-thick fillets. Divide the fish into 4 portions and place on 4 plates. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the tomato sauce on top.
SERVES 4
Doug Prew and CJ Berwick, owners of The Fish House, were surprised to find that many of their guests were looking for a white-tablecloth restaurant. In response, they opened The Fish House Encore Restaurant and Sushi Bar next to their Fish House restaurant. They wanted to make sure that their more upscale venue still had a laid-back Keys atmosphere. It’s been a great success. This is one of their popular dishes. Key lime sauce flavors fish that’s coated with bread crumbs and topped with tomatoes and Parmesan cheese.
4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick) at room temperature, divided use
1 tablespoon flour
2 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup key lime juice
1/4 cup white wine
2 pounds mahimahi or yellowtail snapper fillets (any white fish fillets can be used)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
1/2 cup canola oil
2 cups diced tomatoes
1/2 cup sliced scallions
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat. When the butter melts, add the flour and stir until the flour is absorbed by the butter without lumps. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil to thicken. Remove from the heat and add the key lime juice, white wine, and remaining butter. Stir to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Place the flour on a plate and dip the fish in the flour, making sure both sides are coated. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl and dip the fish in the egg. Place the bread crumbs on a second plate and dip the fish in bread crumbs to cover. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fish and sauté for 2 minutes. Turn and sauté for 2 minutes or until golden. Place the skillet in the oven for 6 minutes for 1-inch-thick fillets. Cook for 8 minutes for thicker fillets. Remove from the oven and divide among 4 plates. Sprinkle each fillet with tomatoes, scallions, and Parmesan cheese. Spoon the key lime sauce over the fish and sprinkle parsley on top.
SERVES 4
Little Palm Island is a gem off the shore of Torch Key and is accessible only by boat or seaplane. It’s at MM 28.5 and is a dreamy hideaway. Chef Luis Pous, executive chef for the restaurant, creates what he calls “modern tropical cuisine” using flavors from South America and the Caribbean, with French influences. Here is a sample that is simple to make and scrumptious to eat.
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
2 tablespoons lime juice, divided use
4 fresh pineapple slices, core removed
1/2 cup diced red onion
1/2 jalapeño pepper, seeded, ribs removed, and diced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 pounds snapper fillets
4 teaspoons fresh tarragon leaves
Mix 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon lime juice together and brush on the pineapple slices. Sauté the pineapple for 2 minutes in a skillet over medium-high heat. Turn and sauté for 2 minutes. They should be golden brown. Dice the pineapple and place in a bowl. Add the onion, jalapeño pepper, cilantro, remaining olive oil, and remaining lime juice. Toss well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss again.
Preheat the broiler. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the snapper fillets. Sauté for 2 minutes. Turn and sauté for another minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and the tarragon leaves. Place under the broiler for 2 minutes. The fish is cooked when it flakes easily. Place the fillets on 4 plates and spoon the salsa on top.
SERVES 4
Captain Bill Whitney met me at the Hawks Cay Resort and Marina with a big smile. He had just come back from a very successful day of fishing. He loves to fish and loves to cook. He’s been a charter captain out of Hawks Cay Resort Marina since 1981. He likes this location. He has access to Florida Bay and the Everglades National Park and the crystal-clear oceanside flats. Snapper, Spanish mackerel, pompano, and grouper are some of the popular fish he brings in. Here’s his quick snapper recipe.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 3/4 pounds mangrove or yellowtail snapper (tilapia, sole, or other white fish fillets)
1/4 cup flour
2 eggs
1/4 pound butter, divided use
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Sprinkle salt and pepper to taste over the fish. Place the flour on a plate and dip the fish in the flour, making sure both sides are covered. Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl and dip the floured fish in the egg. Heat 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fish and sauté for 2 minutes. Turn and sauté for 2 minutes. Place on a baking tray in the oven for 2 to 3 minutes. Meanwhile, add the remaining 4 tablespoons butter and lemon juice to the skillet. Cook until the butter foams. Remove from the heat and add the parsley. Remove the fish from the oven and divide among 4 plates. Drizzle the lemon sauce over the top.
SERVES 4
The Lorelei Restaurant and Cabana Bar in Islamorada provides a great spot to celebrate the sunset in true Keys fashion with drinks, a snack, and the nightly music of a local band. There’s always a lively party at sunset. The Cabana Bar sits practically in the water facing west. Yellowtail snapper is their specialty. Rick Jamison, general manager, told me this Parmesan-Crusted Yellowtail often sells out.
1 cup chopped fresh pineapple
1/4 cup chopped red bell pepper
1/2 cup chopped red onion
1 tablespoon apple cider
1/2 tablespoon honey
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 egg
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup fine cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon bottled minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 pounds yellowtail snapper fillets (white fish fillets, such as tilapia, can be substituted)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 tablespoons canola oil
Place the pineapple, red bell pepper, and red onion in a bowl. Toss to combine. Add the apple cider, honey, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss well. Set aside.
Lightly beat the egg in a bowl. Mix the Parmesan cheese, cornmeal, garlic, and cayenne pepper together in a second bowl. Dip the yellowtail snapper into the egg and then into the Parmesan mixture, making sure both sides are covered. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fillets and sauté for 4 minutes per side for 3/4-inch-thick fillets. Divide the fillets among 4 plates and spoon the relish on the side.
SERVES 4
Tall, lanky, and with a ready smile, Captain Scott Walker is a well-known charter fishing captain. He works out of Hawks Cay Resort and Marina and owns the Tailwalker and Tailwalker 2 charter boats. His fishing show on Versus television is one of the station’s most popular shows.
Here’s a recipe he gave me while tying up the Tailwalker after a successful day of fishing.
1 3/4 pounds fish fillets (mutton snapper, grouper, or other thick white fish)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter
1 Vidalia onion, sliced into rings (red onion can be used) (about 3 cups)
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon garlic salt
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Butter a large baking dish. Add the onion rings in one layer. Place the fish fillet over the rings. Mix the mayonnaise, Parmesan cheese, garlic salt, and Worcestershire sauce together to form a paste. Spoon over the fish to about 1/2 inch thick. Bake for 25 minutes. Turn on the broiler and place the baking dish under the broiler for about 1 to 2 minutes or until a brown crust forms. Divide into 4 portions and serve on 4 plates.
SERVES 4
Bananas, mangoes, and papayas, are all grown in the Keys area. Andre Mueller created his Snapper Rangoon based on these local ingredients and combines them with any type of white fish — snapper, yellowtail, or mahimahi. It became one of his signature dishes.
Andre Mueller came to the Keys in the 1960s and founded his restaurant, Marker 88, in 1978. It quickly became one of the top restaurants in the Upper Keys. Although he sold the restaurant in 2003, he still comes in often to see how it is doing. Snapper Rangoon remains on the menu.
2 pounds snapper or other white fish fillets
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 eggs
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons clarified butter (see glossary) or 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Sprinkle the fish with the lime juice, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper. Combine the eggs, milk, and oil in a bowl. In a second bowl combine the flour and cinnamon. Dip the fish in the flour, then in the egg mixture. Heat the clarified butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and sauté the fish on one side only for 2 minutes. Place the fillets on a baking sheet, browned side up, and bake for 8 minutes. While the fish bakes, make the sauce. Remove from oven. Place the fish on a warmed serving platter or individual dishes and spoon the sauce over the top.
4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick)
1/2 cup each diced banana, pineapple, papaya, and mango
1/2 tablespoon red currant jelly
Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat and add the diced fruit. Turn the fruit carefully with a fork to keep it from breaking up. Cream the jelly with a spoon to
SERVES 4
Charter captain Jim Perry docked at Hawks Cay Resort and Marina with a boatload of fish. One large fish I had never seen before. It was an African pompano. He explained that it was not African but an excellent eating fish high in omega-3 fatty acids.
I watched him skillfully fillet a beautiful mutton snapper. “It’s one of the best eating fish that swims,” he told me. Here’s his recipe.
1 3/4 pounds mutton snapper fillets (any white fish fillet will work)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 egg
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup plain bread crumbs
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon jerk seasoning
Canola oil for frying
Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper to taste. Mix the egg and milk together in a bowl. Place the flour on a plate. Mix the bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, and jerk seasoning together on a second plate. Dip the fillets into the flour, making sure both sides are coated. Dip the fillets in the egg wash and then in the bread crumb mixture. Heat the oil in a deep fryer or saucepan to 350°F over high heat. Fry the fish for about 2 minutes or until golden. Divide into 4 portions and place on 4 plates.
SERVES 4
Dorothy and George Hertel bought the Islamorada Fish Company in 1984. They first opened a fish market selling the wonderful fresh fish abundantly available and then opened a small café/restaurant. At one time you could sit by the water and watch the sponge boats go by. The Hertels have since sold the company and retired. It’s now been expanded into a large complex overlooking the bay in Islamorada, with many smaller outlets throughout the United States. The restaurant is a lively, fun place to dine. Here is their Dolphin Chardonnay recipe.
3 tablespoons butter, divided use
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/4 cup chardonnay wine
3/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 chicken bouillon cube
2 cups sliced button mushrooms
2 cups diced tomatoes
4 8-ounce mahimahi fillets
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Make a roux by adding flour and stirring until smooth without lumps. Set aside.
Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a second skillet over medium-high heat and add the shallots. Sauté until soft, not brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a simmer. Add the cream, salt and pepper to taste, and bouillon cube. Add the mushrooms and tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and stir in the roux to thicken the sauce.
Add the fish to the sauce. Sauté 3 minutes per side, stirring the sauce as the fish cooks. Serve the fish on a plate and spoon some sauce over each portion.
SERVES 4
Fishing captain Matt Bellinger pulled into the dock at the Hawks Cay Resort and Marina after a very successful day of fishing. He’s a flats and backcountry fishing expert. This exciting type of fishing requires an experienced guide and a specialized boat designed for shallow waters and to protect the sensitive ecological systems. Captain Matt loves to cook and has friends over often. He makes his Keys Sunshine Salsa for them. They always ask for his recipe. He says, “No one can make it like mine,” but he gave me his recipe anyway. I took up the challenge and it tastes great. It’s perfect for serving over fish and on its own with chips.
Captain Matt serves his salsa over whatever fish he’s caught that day. Snook is one of his favorites. It is a fish protected by the Florida Keys and has a five-month-long season — September 1 – December 1 and March 1 – May 1. He also serves his salsa with grouper and mahimahi.
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes with juice (about 3 cups)
2 tablespoons key lime juice
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
5 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups diced sweet onion (Vidalia or red onion)
1 cup sliced scallions
2 tablespoons seeded, chopped jalapeño pepper
Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Stir to combine the ingredients, breaking the whole tomatoes with the edge of a spoon. Reduce by about 1/3.
1 tablespoon blackened seasoning
1 3/4 pounds fish fillets
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
Sprinkle the blackened seasoning over the fillets. Heat the oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fish and sauté for 2 minutes and add the salsa. Continue to sauté for 4 to 5 minutes for 3/4-inch-thick fillets. Divide the fish into 4 portions and place on 4 plates. Serve the fish with the sauce spooned on top.
SERVES 4
Hawks Cay Resort and Marina is home to some of the top fishing guides in the Keys. Fishing captain Josh Ardis likes to grill the fish he catches. He gave me a simple tip for grilling fresh fish. Place the fillets skin side down over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes. He says the lower the heat the better. He uses a grill with a cover.
4 6- to 8-ounce fish fillets with skin on
1 tablespoon key lime juice
1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preheat the grill to medium-low. Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towel. Sprinkle the meat side with the key lime juice, Old Bay seasoning, and salt and pepper to taste. Place on clean grill grates, skin side down, over medium-low heat. Cover the grill and cook for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the size of the fillet. If there is no grill cover, grill for 7 minutes and turn over for 3 minutes. The fish is done when the flesh flakes easily. Remove from the grill and serve.
SERVES 4
“Cook tuna all the way through and use it in many dishes” was the advice given to me by Chef Charlotte Miller from Tom’s Harbor House at Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key. Her tuna is moist and flavorful, and here’s how she makes it and her tuna puttanesca.
1 1/2 pounds fresh tuna steaks (blackfin if possible)
Zest from 4 lemons
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 1/2 cups canola oil
Add the lemon zest, thyme, and oil to a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Preheat oven to 300°F. Place the tuna in a small casserole dish and cover with the lemon oil. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and let cool in the oil. The tuna may be slightly rose color when sliced. Use here and also for Salade Niçoise (p. 178) and Tuna Tacos (p. 193). The tuna will keep for several days in the refrigerator.
1 1/2 pounds Charlotte’s cooked tuna
1/2 pound linguine
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup sliced onion
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 cups bottled marinara sauce
1/4 cup drained capers
1/2 cup black olives
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
Flake the tuna with a fork and set aside. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook for 8 minutes for dry pasta and 3 minutes for fresh pasta. Drain and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil and salt and pepper to taste.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion and garlic. Sauté for 1 minute. Add the marinara sauce and heat for 2 minutes. Add the tuna, capers, and olives and toss to warm through, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the linguine to the skillet and toss with the sauce. Divide among 4 plates and sprinkle the basil on top.
SERVES 4
Jose Palomino opened his Spanish Gardens restaurant in Islamorada based on his motto: simplicity, high-quality, and clean food. He uses organic ingredients, fresh fish, grass-fed beef, and the best quality rice and condiments imported from Spain. He’s there to greet everyone, and his enthusiasm for his cuisine is contagious.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
2 large sweet onions, thinly sliced (about 6 cups)
1/4 cup lemon juice
Pinch coarse sea salt
2 pounds yellowfin (ahi) tuna
1/2 cup brandy
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/3 cups bottled roasted red peppers, sliced
Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and gently sauté for 15 to 20 minutes until golden.
Meanwhile, place the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil, lemon juice, and coarse salt in a self-seal plastic bag. Add the tuna and marinate for 10 minutes, turning once during that time.
When the onions are golden, add the brandy and flambé.* If using a gas stove, tip the skillet to light the brandy and immediately remove the skillet from the heat. If using an electric stove, heat the brandy for a few seconds and remove the skillet from the heat. Add a lighted match to the skillet and flambé. Remove the match.
When ready to serve, remove the tuna from the marinade. Heat a heavy-bottomed (cast-iron, if possible) skillet over high heat. The skillet must be very hot. Add the tuna and sear for 1 minute on each side for rare tuna. Season with salt and pepper to taste. For medium-rare, remove the skillet from the heat and cover with a lid. Let sit for 1 minute or longer if desired.
Place the tuna on 4 plates and spoon the onions on top. Arrange the roasted pepper over onions.
* Always have a lid nearby as a safety precaution.
SERVES 4
Morada Bay Beach Café sits on the beach in Islamorada on the bay side facing west. You can soak up the sun or watch the sunset while dining outside. Chef David Peck does a lot of grilling on the open grills there. He makes his own barbecue sauce with local tomatoes and mangoes and serves it over fish or chicken.
4 ripe plantains
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons dark rum
4 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 small ripe mango
1 tablespoon butter or canola oil
2 tablespoons sliced yellow onion
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup rice vinegar
2 medium tomatoes, diced (about 2 cups)
1 3/4 pounds swordfish
Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat. Peel the plantains, cut them in half, and place them in boiling water. Boil until soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from the water and place in a bowl. Add the brown sugar, rum, and butter and mash with a fork. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Remove the flesh from the mango. Stand the mango on the thick end. Cut in half lengthwise, down the side of the pit. Scoop out the flesh with a spoon. Repeat with the second half. Cut the mango into small pieces.
Heat the butter or oil in a skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion and garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add the brown sugar and vinegar. Cook until the sugar dissolves. Add the mango and tomatoes. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. The timing will vary depending on the texture of the tomatoes. The sauce should be thick (barbecue sauce consistency). Cool slightly and place in a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth. Set aside. Can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator.
Heat the grill and place the swordfish over medium heat on clean grates. Grill for 3 minutes and give the fish a quarter turn to create cross marks on the flesh. Grill for 3 minutes. Turn the fish over and baste with the mango barbecue sauce. Cook for 4 minutes for a 1-inch-thick fish; cook for 2 minutes less for a thinner fish.
Spoon the plantain mash onto 4 plates. Divide the swordfish into 4 portions and place on the mash. Spoon some sauce over the fish and serve the remaining sauce on the side for dipping.
SERVES 4
Pierre’s Restaurant combines fine dining with an easy, elegant style. Chef Christopher Gerlach spent summers in the Keys. One winter weekend he came for a short visit and decided to stay. Perhaps it was the thirty-degree weather he left behind in Pennsylvania that helped him make the decision.
Golden Tilefish are found in tropical waters and are not a commercially caught fish. Their meat is firm, white, and mild flavored. You can use tilapia, grouper, or snapper for this recipe. Israeli couscous is a small, round pasta about the size of orzo or rice-shaped pasta. It has a nutty flavor and crunchy texture.
1/2 cup Israeli couscous
4 ears corn
6 tablespoons butter, divided use
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
4 6-ounce tilefish fillets
1/2 red bell pepper, diced
2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to boil over high heat. Add the couscous and boil for 8 to 10 minutes until the couscous is cooked al dente. Drain.
Place the corn on a baking tray and brush with 2 tablespoons butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast in the oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut the kernels from the cobs. Set aside 1/2 cup corn. Place the remaining corn in a food processor or blender and puree with the chicken broth.
Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fish and sear until golden, about 1 minute. Turn and sear the second side for about 1 minute. Transfer to a baking tray and place in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes to finish cooking. The fish is cooked when the flesh flakes easily.
While the fish is in the oven, add the sauce to the fish skillet along with the red bell pepper and jalapeño pepper. Add the couscous and salt and pepper to taste. Finish with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, by adding it to the pan and stirring to incorporate it into the sauce.
Place the fish on 4 plates and spoon the sauce around the fish. Spoon the arugula and spinach salad beside fish.
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cups arugula
2 cups washed, ready-to-eat baby spinach
Add the olive oil, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste to a bowl. Wash and dry the arugula and add to the bowl with the spinach. Toss well.
When I tasted these sliders at Hawks Cay Resort’s Tom’s Harbor House on Duck Key, I knew I had to have the recipe. Chef Charlotte Miller happily gave it to me and also mentioned two other ways to use the pulled pork. Here’s her recipe along with the alternatives.
3 to 4 pounds pork butt
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 carrots, large dice
2 medium onions, large dice
3 oranges
1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
1 bottle red wine
1 cup sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°. Cut the pork butt into 6 pieces. Heat the oil in a large oven-proof casserole. Add the pork and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots and onions. Hold the oranges over the casserole and zest. Remove the orange peel and pith and add the whole oranges to the pot. Add the cinnamon stick and star anise. Add the wine and sugar and stir to mix in the sugar. Bring the wine to a simmer, cover, and place in the oven. Roast, covered, for 2 hours. Remove the pork from the casserole to a cutting board and shred. Discard any visible fat as you shred the pork. Reserve the cooking liquid if you plan to make the terrine or to rewarm the pulled pork.
SERVES 4
1 1/2 cups bottled mojo sauce
2 red onions, sliced (about 2 cups)
1 1/2 pounds pulled pork
12 minislider or burger rolls
Heat the mojo in a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion. Sauté for 15 minutes. The sauce will be absorbed by the onion. Divide the pulled pork among the 12 minirolls. Top the pork with the onions. Serve 3 sliders per person.
SERVES 6 TO 8 AS AN APPETIZER
3/4 pound pulled pork
1 cup cooking liquid
Place the pulled pork in a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. Measure 1 cup cooking liquid and skim the fat from the top. Pour over the pork. Place plastic wrap or foil over the pork and press down. Place a heavy can or other weight on top. Refrigerate overnight.
To serve: Remove from the refrigerator, run a knife around the edge of the pan, and turn over onto a plate. Slice the terrine and serve with cornichons (gherkins), crackers, and grainy mustard.
SERVES 4
2 1/2 cups water
1 cup quick-cooking polenta
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 1/2 pounds pulled pork
1/2 cup cooking liquid
Bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the polenta, stir, and bring to a boil. Cover with a lid and lower the heat to medium. Boil for 2 to 3 minutes or until the polenta is thick. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon onto 4 plates and place the pulled pork on top. Spoon about 2 tablespoons cooking liquid per person over the pork.
SERVES 40
There have been Spottswoods living in Key West for many generations. Mary Spottswood’s husband, John, was a fifth-generation Conch. Their children and grandchildren live in Key West and are thriving there. Their line goes back to the Maloney and Barthlum families, involved in sponging, boating, politics, and real estate. Mary loved to cook and her daughter-in-law, Elena Spottswood, told me that Mary often made dinner and brought it to their home. The whole family loved her food.
Mary learned how to bake ham from Manda Johnson, who worked for the Spottswood family. Everyone looked forward to Manda’s ham at the Spottwood parties. Manda used to cook the ham in a brown paper bag. For safety’s sake, Mary used foil.
1 20-pound smoked ham with bone
1 cup honey
2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 quart apple juice
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup maple syrup
1 cup mustard
Preheat the oven to 225°F. Line a roasting pan with foil and place the ham in it, fat side up. Spoon the honey over the ham, sprinkle with the ground cloves, and pour the apple juice over it. Loosely wrap the foil around the ham, forming a tent. Place the ham in the oven and bake for about 8 hours or overnight. Remove the skin and fat and score the meat in a diamond pattern. Spoon a little more honey over the top of the ham and add some more ground cloves. Let cook uncovered for 1 hour until it turns brown and a meat thermometer registers 160°F.
Combine the brown sugar, maple syrup, and mustard in a heavy-bottomed pan. Heat over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the sauce is thick.
To serve, remove the ham from the pan and drain off all of the juices. Place on a serving platter and spoon some sauce over the ham. Slice the ham and serve the rest of the sauce on the side for dipping.
SERVES 4
Jennifer Cornell went to culinary school in Vermont and interned in St. Croix in the United States Virgin Islands, where she learned about native foods and fruits. Using this background, she started her catering company, Small Chef at Large in Key West. It became so popular that she opened The White Street Bistro. I met her in the restaurant kitchen when she was preparing food for a wedding. She told me that this recipe is always a hit at any party. Here it is.
4 8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/2 cup panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
1/2 cup crushed almonds (crush slivered almonds in food processor)
3 tablespoons black sesame seeds
3 tablespoons white sesame seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
Rinse the chicken. Combine the bread crumbs, almonds, and sesame seeds in a bowl. Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Place one chicken breast in the bowl and press the mixture hard into the breast on both sides so it is well coated. Repeat with the other three breasts. Refrigerate while making the chutney.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the oil in an oven-proof skillet over medium heat. Add the chicken and sauté until nicely browned on both sides, about 1 1/2 minutes per side. Place in the oven for 15 minutes. A meat thermometer should read 165°F. Remove from the oven and place on 4 plates. Spoon 2 or 3 tablespoons chutney on top.
1/2 small red bell pepper, small dice
1/2 small yellow onion, small dice
1 tablespoon diced jalapeño (seeds and ribs removed)
1 large mango, small dice
1 banana, sliced into
1/4-inch rounds
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1/2 tablespoon crushed garlic
1/2 cup of mango juice or orange juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until thick, 30–45 minutes.
SERVES 4
The Key Largo Conch House is a charming Bahamas Victorian-style restaurant surrounded by a veranda. Walking up the stairs you’re greeted by Romeo, their African gray parrot. The Dreaver family own and run the restaurant and make it a very warm and friendly place.
The jerk seasoning for this recipe is very good; however, you can shorten it by using a store-bought jerk seasoning and adding the sugar, olive oil, soy sauce, and vinegar.
1 tablespoon thyme
Cayenne pepper to taste
3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons dried sage
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup soy sauce
3/4 cup white vinegar
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons key lime juice
2 tablespoons chopped serrano or jalapeño pepper
1 cup chopped onion
3 scallions, sliced
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Mix the thyme, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, sage, salt, black pepper, garlic, and sugar together in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, soy sauce, vinegar, orange juice, and key lime juice and mix until well blended. Add the serrano or jalapeño pepper and scallions and mix together well. Add the chicken breasts and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Preheat a barbecue or stove-top grill. Remove the chicken from the marinade and grill for 5 minutes. Turn and grill for 5 minutes. A meat thermometer should read 165°F. Divide among 4 plates. Serve with linguine.
3/4 pound linguine
1/4 cup butter
1 cup heavy cream
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook for 3 minutes for fresh pasta or 8 minutes for dried pasta.
While the linguine cooks, melt the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the cream and garlic. Stir in the Parmesan cheese, parsley, and pepper and stir until smooth. Toss with the hot linguine and serve.
SERVES 4
As corporate chef at Morton’s Steakhouse in Chicago, Michael Wilson learned a lot about beef; however, he got tired of the cold weather and fled to Key West. He met Melanie there and made her this stuffed veal chop when they first started dating. She’s now his wife and partner in Michael’s Key West. I guess his expertise paid off.
1 cup fine bread crumbs
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons garlic powder
4 eggs
4 10-ounce veal chops (center cut)
8 thin slices of prosciutto di Parma
4 large basil leaves
4 ounces fresh mozzarella, sliced or shredded (about 1 cup)
4 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste White pepper to taste
4 tablespoons butter, divided use
12 medium-size button mushrooms, quartered
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 cup sweet marsala wine
1/2 cup beef stock
Mix the bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, and garlic powder together on a plate. Beat the eggs in a bowl and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Make pockets in the veal. Cut slits on the side, entering from the fat side and cutting to the bone. Place 4 slices of prosciutto di Parma on a countertop. Place the remaining 4 slices flat over the first slices. Lay one basil leaf and 1 ounce fresh mozzarella on each pair of prosciutto di Parma slices. Roll up the slices. Stuff 1 prosciutto di Parma roll into the pocket of each veal chop. Dip the chops into the beaten egg and then into the bread crumb mixture, making sure the chops are coated on both sides. Press the mixture into the meat.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet over high heat. Sauté the stuffed veal chops in the oil until golden brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Place the veal chops on a baking tray and roast in the oven for 12 minutes. A meat thermometer should read 135°F when done.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons butter over high heat and add the mushrooms. Sauté until they are soft, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the mushrooms and stir to combine. Add the sweet marsala wine and reduce by half. Add the beef stock, bring to a simmer, and reduce the mixture by half again. Remove from the heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to finish the sauce. Place the veal chop on a bed of spinach sautéed with prosciutto di Parma and spoon the sauce over the top.
1 10-ounce bag washed, ready-to-eat spinach (about 8 cups)
4 slices prosciutto di Parma, cut into small pieces
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook until wilted. Drain in a colander. Add the prosciutto to the skillet and sauté for 30 seconds. Return the spinach to skillet and sauté for 2 minutes. Divide the spinach among 4 plates and place the veal chops on top.
SERVES 4
Chef Jean Pierre and Diane Lejeune from the celebrated Gourmet Diner in North Miami Beach are retired, but they still cook for family and friends at their Islamorada home, where spectacular views of sunsets over the bay provide a treat for their guests.
Jean Pierre makes his grilled fillet and baked potatoes on the barbecue in his outdoor kitchen. He uses beef loin butt. It’s the top of the fillet and very tender. He says any tender beef, such as skirt or flank steak can be used, however. He serves it plain or with bordelaise sauce. His secret to baked potatoes on the grill is to microwave them first and then crisp them up on the grill.
2 tablespoons butter
6 large shallots, finely chopped
1/2 bottle red wine, Bordeaux or California burgundy
1 10 1/4-ounce can beef gravy
2 pounds beef fillet (beef loin butt, tenderloin, skirt, or flank)
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and sauté until soft, not brown. Raise the heat to high and add the wine. Reduce the wine by half. Add the beef gravy and stir to heat through.
Preheat the barbecue. Brush the beef on all sides with olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Place the beef over direct heat on the grill and cook for 10 minutes. Turn and cook for 5 minutes for medium-rare. A meat thermometer should read 145°F.
Carve and serve with the sauce spooned on top.
4 8-ounce russet potatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup coarse sea salt
1/4 pound butter
1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup chopped chives
Wash the potatoes; do not peel them. Prick a few holes in the potatoes with a fork to let the steam escape. Place on a plate in a microwave oven. Microwave on high for 10 minutes.* Rub the potatoes with olive oil and roll in the sea salt. Wrap each potato in foil and place on the grill for 15 minutes, turning several times. Serve the potatoes and pass the butter, sour cream, and chives.
*Microwave ovens differ and the timing may not be exact. The potato will be mostly cooked and then finished on the grill. Before serving the potatoes, test with a knife. It should slide easily into the potato.
1 pound zucchini
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
Cut the zucchini into 1/4-inch strips lengthwise, making sure the strips are all the same thickness. Mix the oil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. Add the zucchini and toss to coat with the sauce.
Place the strips over direct heat on the grill. As soon as one side has grill marks, turn over and grill the second side just until they are marked. Remove and sprinkle with the paprika.
SERVES 4
You can have a delicious tour of the flavors of Latin America when dining at Alma in the Hawks Cay Resort and Marina on Duck Key. The menu offers an array of dishes from across the Caribbean and South America.
Chef Tony Glitz gives a modern touch to many traditional Latin dishes. He turns traditional Moros y Cristianos—black beans and rice—into two dishes: asmine rice topped with candied tomatoes and a black bean salsa.
Chimichurri sauce is another Latin tradition. It usually contains parsley, cilantro, garlic, vinegar, oil, and hot pepper flakes. Chef Tony adds avocado to his.
Chef Tony suggests serving these dishes together or using the side dishes with other meats or fish. The chimichurri sauce will go with any cooked meat, and the black bean salsa can be used as a side dish for chicken, shrimp, or fish.
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided use
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 1/2 pounds skirt steak
1 cup sliced onion
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place 1/2 cup olive oil, cilantro, and garlic in a self-seal bag or bowl. Add the steak and marinate for 30 minutes. Drain and place on a hot grill or stove-top grill for about 3 minutes; turn and cook for 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. A meat thermometer should read 145°F for rare. Slice against the grain on the diagonal.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and gently sauté for about 15 to 20 minutes. They should be transparent and golden. Lower the heat if they begin to burn.
8 plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 225°F. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise and place on a baking tray, cut side up. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Bake for 4 hours.
1 cup jasmine rice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and bring back to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes. Drain and add salt and pepper to taste. Form the rice into 4 balls with an ice-cream scoop and place on 4 dinner plates. Place 4 candied tomato halves on each scoop.
1 cup cilantro
1 cup parsley
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 medium garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup diced red bell pepper
1/2 cup diced white onion
1 small ripe avocado, diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or several drops hot pepper sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chop the cilantro, parsley, oregano, and garlic in a food processor. Remove to a bowl and add the red bell pepper, onion, and avocado. Toss together. Add the vinegar, olive oil, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well.
1/2 cup chopped white onion
1/2 cup red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 cup green bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 cup yellow bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar*
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 cups canned black beans, rinsed and drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place all of the ingredients in a bowl and toss well.
To finish: Place the black bean salsa in the middle of the plate. Place the steak on the beans. Spoon the caramelized onions over the steak and spoon the chimichurri sauce over the onions. Place the rice on the plate and top with the tomatoes.
* Any type of vinegar can be used.
SERVES 4
Step into Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen and enter old Key Largo. Jack MacFarland opened it in 1976 in honor of his mom and her recipes. It hasn’t changed much since. That’s why the locals call it Keys Classic or Keys Easy. The interior walls are filled with license plates given to them by guests from around the world. This is one of those local treasures — a hometown café serving top-quality food. Angie Wittke started working in the kitchen and now owns the restaurant. She proudly told me that they use only Certified Angus Beef.
Chimichurri sauce is a traditional Latin dish. It usually contains parsley, cilantro, garlic, vinegar, oil, and hot pepper flakes. It can be found ready-made in most markets.
Mojo is a sauce used as a marinade or condiment in many Latin dishes. It usually contains olive oil, a lot of garlic, onion, cumin, vinegar, and sour orange or lime juice. It’s sold in many supermarkets in the sauce or ethnic section.
1 cup bottled chimichurri sauce
2 cups mojo
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup Cajun seasoning
2 pounds Certified Angus Beef skirt steak
Mix the chimichurri sauce, mojo, onion, and Cajun seasoning together in a self-seal plastic bag or bowl. Add the steak and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
1 1/3 cups diced tomatoes
2/3 cup diced tomatillos
2 tablespoons seeded, chopped jalapeño peppers
4 tablespoons chopped onion
4 tablespoons cilantro
Heat a saucepan over low heat and add the tomatoes, tomatillos, and jalapeño peppers. Cook, stirring or shaking the pan until the tomatoes are dry, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the onion and cilantro.
3/4 cup long-grain white rice
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
2 bacon rashers
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and let roll in the boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain and place in a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste.
While the rice cooks, heat a skillet over medium-high heat and add the bacon. Cook the bacon until crisp. Remove the bacon and pour off the fat. Break the bacon into small pieces and return to the skillet with the garlic. Add the black beans, lower the heat to medium, continue to simmer, and toss about for 2 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and salt and pepper to taste.
Preheat a grill or stove-top grill. Remove the steak from the marinade and place on clean grill grates over direct heat for 3 minutes. Turn and grill for 3 minutes. Remove to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice against the grain. Divide among 4 plates, spoon some Tijuana sauce on top, and pass the rest around. Spoon the rice onto the 4 plates and top rice with the black beans.
SERVES 4
Jim “Mad Dog” Mandrich played for the Miami Dolphins in 1972, the year they were undefeated — the only undefeated pro-football team in history. He came to the Keys and bought Ziggy’s in Islamorada, one of his favorite restaurants, and changed the name to Ziggy and Mad Dog. It’s another winner for him. Executive Chef Ben Coole says this Stuffed Fillet is a popular weekend special in the restaurant.
1 1/2 pounds beef fillet, center cut
2 ounces cream cheese
2 ounces Stilton cheese*
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons canola oil, divided use
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup diced onion
1 leek, diced, white part only
1 cup diced red bell pepper
1 cup diced yellow bell pepper
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons brandy
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Make a pocket in the fillet along the side. The pocket should reach almost to the other side of the fillet. Mix the cream cheese, Stilton cheese, and basil together in a food processor. Stuff the mixture into the pocket and tie a string around in 2 places to secure the filling. Place the fillet on a rack in a roasting pan and brush with 1 tablespoon oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Place in the upper third of the preheated oven. Roast for 30 minutes. A meat thermometer should read 145°F for rare. Remove and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving.
While the fillet roasts, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, leek, and red and yellow peppers. Sauté for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and brown sugar and continue to sauté for 5 minutes. Add the brandy and flambé. (If using a gas stove, tip the pan to ignite the brandy. If using an electric stove, remove from heat and add a lighted match. Remove the match when the flames stop.) Remove the string, divide the beef into 4 portions, and spoon the vegetables and juices over the meat.
*Roquefort cheese can be used instead.