cup dry white wineArtichauts violets braisés à la citronnelle, roquette et parmesan
BRAISED PURPLE ARTICHOKES WITH LEMONGRASS, ROCKET & PARMESAN
Walking in the countryside of France, you could be forgiven for thinking that this purple thistle was little more than a weed. But you’d be missing something really special. Catherine de Medici, an Italian princess, recognized this plant for the delicacy it is, and was responsible for bringing it to France in the late 16th century.
Preparation time 35 minutes
Cooking time 25 minutes
juice of 1 lemon
16 small purple artichokes or 280g/10oz drained, preserved artichokes
2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
2 lemongrass stalks, halved and bruised
1 lemon, halved
150ml/5fl oz/scant cup dry white wine
1 small red pepper, peeled if desired, deseeded and chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100g/3½oz rocket leaves, to serve
50g/1¾oz Parmesan or a hard cheese such as Comté, shaved, to serve
DIJON MUSTARD DRESSING
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
If using fresh artichokes, fill a large bowl with water and mix in the lemon juice. Remove the outer leaves from the artichokes and cut the tops off. Trim and peel the stalks. Cut in half lengthways and put them immediately in a bowl of water to prevent them from discolouring.
Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Drain the artichokes and add them to the pan. Cook for 3 minutes, turning occasionally with a wooden spoon, until golden brown all over. Add the garlic and lemongrass and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over. Cook for a further 5 minutes. If using preserved artichokes, cook for 1 minute before adding the garlic, lemongrass and lemon juice and then for a further 2 minutes.
Add the wine and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook for 2–3 minutes until slightly reduced, then add the red pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by at least half (to about 2–3 tablespoons). The artichokes should be cooked but still quite firm. Remove the artichokes from the pan and set aside for 15 minutes. If there is any remaining cooking liquid in the pan, drain it into a small bowl and discard the lemongrass.
Meanwhile, you can make the dressing. Add the mustard, oil and balsamic vinegar to the cooking liquid. Season with salt and pepper and whisk to combine.
When the artichokes have cooled, scoop out and discard the chokes, using a small spoon. Be careful not to lose any of the artichoke heart just below the choke. Cut the flesh into quarters, if preferred.
Arrange the artichokes on a plate, top with the rocket and Parmesan shavings, sprinkle with the dressing and serve. This is a delicious, refreshing and colourful dish, and also makes a great accompaniment to grilled meat or fish.
Frisée aux lardons
FRISÉE WITH PANCETTA
The secret with frisée lettuce is to choose one that is really yellow. You need to use all the yellow and only the top section of the light green part. Discard the rest, which can be very bitter. Try keeping the frisée in cold water for 20 minutes before preparing this dish to make it extra firm and crunchy. Delicious with omelette and sautéed potatoes.
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 15 minutes
150g/5½oz pancetta, cut into 1cm/½in dice
2 tbsp sunflower oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup olive oil
1 yellow frisée lettuce, torn into bite-sized pieces
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the pancetta for 1–2 minutes, then refresh in cold water, drain and pat dry. Heat the sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and sauté the pancetta for 8–10 minutes until crispy.
In a small bowl, mix together the the mustard, vinegar and 2 tablespoons water, then whisk in the olive oil until the mixture is quite thick and glossy. Season with salt and pepper.
Put the frisée in a bowl, toss with the vinaigrette and add the crispy pancetta, then serve.
Epinards au beurre et citron
BUTTERED SPINACH WITH LEMON ZEST
Preparation time 15 minutes
Cooking time 35 minutes
zest of 1 lemon, cut into thin strips
1 tbsp caster sugar
30g/1oz butter
1 garlic clove, chopped
500g/1lb 2oz large leaf spinach
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the strips of lemon zest for 4–5 minutes to soften and to get rid of any chemicals, then refresh in cold water, drain and blanch and refresh again. Put the sugar in the pan with enough water to just cover and stir to dissolve. Add the zest and simmer gently over a low heat for 20 minutes until glazed. The lemon strips should be candied, shiny and not sticking to each other. Set aside.
Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium heat – it needs to be hot enough for the spinach to wilt quickly, but not so hot that the butter burns! Add the garlic and spinach and cook for 2 minutes until wilted. Season with salt and pepper, then drain and squeeze off any excess liquid.
Serve hot sprinkled with the candied lemon zest.
Pommes de terre persillées
SAUTÉED POTATOES WITH PARSLEY & GARLIC
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 20 minutes
400g/14oz new potatoes, cut into 5mm/¼-in thick slices
2 tbsp sunflower oil
30g/1oz butter
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
sea salt
Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil and blanch the potatoes for 8 minutes, then drain and pat dry with kitchen towel.
Warm the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the potato slices and cook for 3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Just before they are ready, add the butter and let it melt around them – it will give them an extra crispiness and a nutty flavour. At the last minute, throw in the parsley and garlic and sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately.
Ecrasée de pommes de terre à la coriandre et citron vert
WARM CRUSHED POTATOES WITH CORIANDER & LIME
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 15 minutes
400g/14oz new potatoes
juice and zest of 1 lime
1 small handful of coriander, leaves only, roughly chopped
olive oil, for drizzling
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and boil the potatoes for 8–10 minutes until still slightly firm. Drain, refresh under cold water and peel, then crush slightly with a fork – not too much or you will turn them into mash.
Season with salt and pepper, then add the lime juice and zest and the coriander. Drizzle with a little oil and serve.
Fondant de pommes de terre à l’ail confit
FONDANT POTATOES WITH CONFIT OF GARLIC
Preparation time 15 minutes, plus making the stock
Cooking time 35 minutes
1 tbsp sunflower oil
100g/3½oz butter, chopped
500g/1lb 2oz small waxy potatoes, such as Charlotte or Jersey Royal, peeled
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled and crushed slightly with the flat edge of a knife or your hand
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup vegetable Stock (see page 19) or Chicken Stock (see page 18)
1 rosemary sprig
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Put the oil and butter in a baking dish. Add the potatoes and garlic and bake in the preheated oven for 15–20 minutes or until golden brown all around.
Add the stock and rosemary and bake for a further 15 minutes or until the stock has been absorbed and the potatoes are soft and garlicky. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Gratin de pommes de terre au vieux comté
POTATO GRATIN WITH AGED COMTÉ
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 50 minutes
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup full-fat milk
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup double cream
1 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, cut in half
55g/2oz butter
500g/1lb 2oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree or Maris Piper, thinly sliced
115g/4oz aged Comté cheese or other mature hard cheese, grated
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 140°C/275°F/gas 1. Put the milk, cream, nutmeg and bay leaf in a medium saucepan over a medium heat and season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and discard the bay leaf.
Rub a baking dish all around with the garlic clove, then grease it with the butter. Arrange the sliced potatoes in the dish. Stir half the cheese into the milk mixture and pour it over the potatoes. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top and bake for 45 minutes until melted and lightly coloured.
Preheat the grill to high and grill the gratin for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. Serve immediately.
Grosses frites au sel de mer
LARGE FRENCH FRIES WITH SEA SALT
Preparation time 20 minutes, plus 1–2 hours chilling
Cooking time 45 minutes
800g/1lb 12oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree or Maris Piper, peeled and thickly sliced
1l/35fl oz/4 cups sunflower oil
sea salt
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Cut off both ends of the potatoes, peel them and cut them into large, long chips, about 2cm/¾in thick. Wash them to get rid of any excess starch and drop them into the boiling water for about 6–8 minutes. They should still be quite firm when you take them out. Line a tray with kitchen towel, drain the potatoes carefully, so as not to break them, and put them on the tray. Leave to cool, then chill for 1–2 hours.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a low heat to 140°C/275°F. If you don’t have a thermometer, you can check the temperature by dropping a potato in – if it floats and bubbles, the oil is hot enough. Add the potatoes in 2 or 3 batches, depending on the size of your pan, and fry for 4–6 minutes until firm but with no colour. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on a tray lined with kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining potatoes.
When ready to serve, increase the temperature of the oil to 185°C/360°F. Fry the chips again in batches for 4–6 minutes until they are a lovely golden colour. Serve hot sprinkled with salt.
Purée de pommes de terre à la crème
Preparation time 30 minutes
Cooking time 55 minutes
1kg/2lb 4oz floury potatoes, such as Desiree, Charlotte or Ratte, unpeeled
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup full-fat milk
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
2 garlic cloves, sliced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. Wash the potatoes thoroughly, put in a large saucepan, cover with water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 30–40 minutes or until completely cooked through. Drain quickly and place the potatoes on a baking sheet. Put the potatoes in the preheated oven for 10 minutes, then peel.
While still warm, quickly pass the potatoes through a sieve or mouli. Do not allow them to cool, or the mash will be gluey. Cover and set aside.
Put the milk, cream and garlic in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and pour half the mixture over the potato mixture. Mix well, then add the rest of the liquid little by little. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot.
Salade de pommes de terre nouvelles aux oeufs durs et vinaigrette au Xérès
NEW POTATO SALAD WITH HARD-BOILED EGGS & SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
I find potato salad can be a bit heavy, which is why I love to put plenty of herbs in it. Sorrel and chervil are beautiful herbs but can be tricky to find; market stalls are your best bet. Wild sorrel can be found alongside rivers and in wetlands in the springtime – it looks like an elongated spinach and tastes quite bitter. If you can’t find chervil, use extra chives or some tarragon instead. I like to use vinaigrette rather than mayonnaise, because it keeps potato salad light and refreshing. A great one for picnics.
Preparation time 20 minutes
Cooking time 30 minutes
1kg/2lb 4oz new potatoes
1 fennel bulb, about 5–8cm/ 2–3¼in long
2 eggs
1 tsp vinegar
sherry vinegar, for drizzling
1 small handful of spinach leaves, trimmed
1 small handful of sorrel leaves, trimmed (optional)
1 small handful of mixed lettuce leaves
6 chervil sprigs, finely chopped
2 mint leaves, finely chopped
5 dill sprigs, finely chopped, plus extra to serve
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp roughly chopped chives
4 radishes, finely sliced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
3 tbsp olive oil
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and simmer the potatoes and fennel stalk over a medium heat for 30 minutes until al dente.
Meanwhile, hard-boil the eggs. Fill a small saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add the teaspoon of vinegar to the water, as this will make the eggs easier to shell after cooking. Place each egg in a ladle, then slowly and carefully slide the egg into the water so that you don’t break the shell. Cook for 8 to 9 minutes, drain and place the eggs under running cold water. When cool enough to handle, shell the eggs, cut in quarters and set aside.
Drain the potatoes and fennel stalk and refresh under cold water. Peel the potatoes, then cut the potatoes and the fennel into thick slices. Put them in a bowl and drizzle with some sherry vinegar.
Arrange the spinach, sorrel and lettuce on a large serving dish, leaving a space in the centre for the potatoes and fennel. Sprinkle the chervil, mint, dill, spring onions and chives over the greens, season with salt and drizzle with more sherry vinegar. Put the potatoes and fennel in the centre of the dish and arrange the eggs around them.
To prepare the vinaigrette, put the mustard, vinegar and oil in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine, then pour the dressing over the potato salad.
Sprinkle with extra dill sprigs and the radish slices and serve.
