Roaming street vendors peddle these spring rolls from their carts in Ho Chi Minh City. The dish is a legacy of the migration of ethnic Chinese to southern Vietnam, many of whom settled in the Cholon (literally ‘big market’) district. Traditionally, the Chinese use wheat-based wrappers, but the Vietnamese have adapted the recipe to suit local tastes and use rice-paper wrappers.

Lap cheong sausage is a dry Chinese pork sausage that has a slightly sweet taste with a hint of cassia. It is readily available in Asian supermarkets. Jicama hails from Central America. It made its way to the Philippines on Spanish ships and from there it reached Vietnam and its neighbours. The starchy root can absorb a variety of flavours and is mainly used for its crunchy texture, which is similar to that of water chestnuts or nashi pears.

48 dried shrimp

3 lap cheong sausages

8 eggs oil, for frying

3 garlic cloves, chopped

24 rice-paper wrappers

1 butter lettuce, leaves separated

1 jicama, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 handful Thai basil leaves

hoisin dipping sauce to serve

Cover the dried shrimp with warm water and set aside while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

Cook the lap cheong sausages in a frying pan, turning, for 5–6 minutes, then drain well on paper towel. Cool slightly, then cut on an angle into 3 mm slices.

Break 2 eggs into a small bowl and whisk to combine. Heat a little oil in a non-stick frying pan. Pour the egg into the pan and gently stir for 5 seconds, spreading the egg over the base of the pan, then cook until set. Remove from the pan and repeat with the remaining eggs. Cool the omelettes, then cut into 5 mm strips.

Drain the shrimp, reserving the soaking liquid to make the dipping sauce. Heat a little oil in a pan and fry the garlic until fragrant. Add the drained shrimp and cook for 3–4 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Dip a rice-paper wrapper in warm water for 1 second. Do not soak the wrapper as it will become too soft and tear when rolled. Place the wrapper on a flat surface. Wait for 20 seconds, then place a lettuce leaf, some omelette strips, jicama, basil, sausage and 2 dried shrimp on the bottom third of the wrapper. Bring the bottom of the wrapper up over the filling, then fold in the sides and roll up. Set aside, seam-side down, while you prepare the remaining spring rolls.

Serve the spring rolls with the dipping sauce.