In Hanoi, the legendary Ly Van Phuc Street, also simply and somewhat unimaginatively known as ‘Chicken Street’, specialises in this dish. Rows of stalls on each side of the street keep the barbecues burning late into the night, plying hungry revellers with tasty chicken washed down with cheap beer.

12 chicken wings

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped

teaspoon five-spice powder

1 teaspoon brown sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon annatto oil

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 teaspoons soy sauce

Separate the chicken wings at the joint so that the chicken cooks evenly.

Prepare the marinade by combining all the remaining ingredients. Place the chicken wings on a baking tray and pour over the marinade. Refrigerate for 1 hour, turning occasionally.

Heat a charcoal grill or barbecue and cook the chicken for 3–4 minutes on each side, until the skin is crisp and char lines appear.