This dish is prepared using carp at roadside stops in the Mekong Delta. Along Vietnam’s almost 3000-kilometre coastline, it is made with mackerel. The version below, which uses galangal and coconut milk, is typical of the southern beach town of Nha Trang.

3–4 mackerel fillets, 2–3 cm thick

3 red Asian shallots, finely diced

2½ tablespoons fish sauce

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ tablespoons sugar

oil, for frying

150 ml coconut milk

3 cm knob of galangal, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 long red chilli, cut into 5 mm rings

pinch of freshly ground black pepper, extra

4 spring onions, sliced

½ handful coriander sprigs

Combine the mackerel with the shallots, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce and the pepper and set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the sugar and 1½ tablespoons water in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and then cook until the sugar is a rich golden colour. Pour in 250 ml of water, standing away from the pan. When the spluttering has stopped, stir until the caramel sauce is smooth.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (Gas 4). Heat a little oil in a frying pan and brown the mackerel on both sides. Add the caramel sauce, coconut milk, galangal, chilli and remaining fish sauce. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat.

Transfer the fish and sauce to a clay pot or casserole dish, cover and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and bake for a further 4–5 minutes.

Serve the fish in the clay pot, sprinkled with the extra pepper, spring onions and coriander.