Brawn is sold alongside pâté at local wet markets. It is particularly popular during Tet, when families like to prepare food in advance to avoid cooking during the first two days of the New Year celebrations.

2 tablespoons sugar

1 pig’s ear

1 pig’s tongue

1 pig’s cheek

1½ tablespoons fish sauce

2 star anise

6 dried wood ear mushrooms

oil, for frying

1 teaspoon white peppercorns, crushed

fish sauce, extra, to serve

Sprinkle the sugar over the base of a dry saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the sugar starts to colour, then rotate the pan so that the sugar colours evenly. When the sugar is dark golden, add 2 tablespoons water, standing away from the pan to avoid being splattered by the hot caramel. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Put the pig’s ear, tongue and cheek in a bowl. Combine the caramel sauce with 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce and the star anise. Pour over the meat and marinate for 30 minutes.

Put the marinated meat in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and weigh down with a plate to submerge the meat. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Cool slightly, then remove the meat. Strain the stock into a clean saucepan. Reduce over medium heat while you prepare the meat.

Meanwhile, soak the dried mushrooms in warm water for 20 minutes. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water. Remove the stems and cut the caps into thin strips.

Peel the thick skin from the pig’s tongue. Remove any fat and gristle from the meat and cut into 3 cm thick pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the meat and cook for 3–4 minutes, tossing occasionally. Add the mushrooms and white pepper and toss to combine. Pour in enough of the stock to cover the meat, then cook until the stock is reduced and sticky.

Stir in the remaining fish sauce and transfer the meat and stock to a shallow bowl. Refrigerate until the brawn has set to a jelly-like consistency. Slice and serve the chilled brawn with fish sauce.