Preparing dried bamboo is a labour of love. It requires overnight soaking and boiling the following day, and the water needs to be changed at least once during the cooking process. It is usually only prepared at home on important occasions, such as Tet (Vietnamese New Year), ancestor days, or to farewell the kitchen god, Ong Tao.

Both fresh and dry bamboo have a musty, earthy flavour and perfume. The fresh variety adds crunch to this dish, and the dry one adds a chewy texture.

60 g dried bamboo

2 chicken carcasses

2 kg duck

4 cm knob of ginger, cut in half

6 spring onions

2 lemongrass stems, white part only, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1½ tablespoons fish sauce

3 cm knob of ginger, extra, cut into thin strips

120 g vacuum-sealed fresh bamboo

600 g rice vermicelli

1 handful Thai basil leaves

1 handful mint sprigs

4 spring onions, extra, cut into thin strips

3 tablespoons fried shallots

ginger dipping sauce to serve (optional)

Soak the dried bamboo in cold water overnight. Drain the bamboo, put it in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Boil for 1 hour, topping up the water as needed. Drain, then repeat the boiling process. The bamboo should now be tender, but still a little chewy. Drain and cool, then cut the bamboo into pieces 4 cm long.

Meanwhile, put the chicken carcasses and duck in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Slowly bring to the boil, removing any scum that rises to the surface. Add the ginger, spring onions, lemongrass, salt and sugar. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Remove the duck and simmer the broth for a further hour. Use a cleaver to cut the duck into bite-sized pieces. Strain the broth through a fine sieve and discard the chicken bones and aromatics. Pour the broth into a clean pan. Bring to the boil, then add the fish sauce and extra ginger.

Meanwhile, put the fresh bamboo in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain and cool, then cut the bamboo into thin slices.

Soak the rice vermicelli in boiling water for 4–5 minutes. Stir to separate the noodles, then drain and refresh under cold water. Use scissors to cut the vermicelli into easyto-manage lengths, then divide it among six deep bowls.

Put the fresh and dried bamboo, basil, mint, spring onion strips and duck pieces on the noodles. Ladle the hot broth into the bowls and sprinkle with the fried shallots. Drizzle with the ginger dipping sauce, if using.