Transport

Bangkok

Getting there

By air

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (pronounced ‘su-wa-na-poom’; www.suvarnabhumiairport.com) is about 30km (19 miles) east of Bangkok. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the airport from the city by taxi, depending on traffic conditions. The airport handles all international flights to Bangkok as well as many domestic connections.

Suvarnabhumi has one main passenger terminal with seven concourses, capable of handling 76 flights per hour with ease, according to the Airport Authority of Thailand (AOT). The airport has its fair share of complaints, usually sparse toilet facilities, a congested arrival hall and long walks between gates. But the experience is pretty hassle-free, the main bugbear being rogue taxis.

The airport has a good range of facilities on offer, including foreign-exchange outlets, ATMs, a Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) office, medical centre, internet connection, fitness centre and a wide array of shops and restaurants.

In line with the practice of major airports the world over, the airport tax for international flights out of Suvarnabhumi is now incorporated into the price of your air ticket.

For further information, check the airport website, download AOT application, or phone the following number for assistance:

Airport Call Centre: 0-2132 1888

Don Muang airport

Some low budget carriers use Bangkok’s old Don Muang Airport (tel: 0-2535 1111; www.donmuangairportonline.com) for domestic and international flights. It takes about 45 minutes to get to the airport by taxi.

Note: If making a flight connection between Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang airports, be sure to allow sufficient time as taxi or shuttle bus travel between the two airports could take up to 1.5 hours.

By rail

The State Railway of Thailand (hotline 1690; www.railway.co.th) operates trains that are clean, cheap and reliable, if a little slow. There are three entry points by rail into Thailand. Two are from Malaysia, the more popular of which is the daily train that leaves Butterworth, near Penang in northwest Malaysia, at 1.15pm for Hat Yai (south Thailand) and arrives at Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station at 10.50am the next day. Trains leave Hualamphong Station daily at 2.45pm for the return journey to Malaysia. There is also a short line from Nong Khai, in northeast Thailand, to 3km (2 miles) across the Laos border. This will eventually extend to Vientiane.

By road

Malaysia provides the main road access into Thailand, with crossings near Betong and Sungai Kolok. From Laos, there are four Friendship Bridges, at Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom and Nong Khai, all in northeast Thailand, and at Chiang Khong, in Chiang Rai Province. There is also a land crossing at Huay Kon (in Nan Province). From Cambodia, the most commonly used border crossing is from Poipet, which connects to the Thai town of Aranyaprathet, east of Bangkok.

Getting around

From the airport

The journey from Suvarnabhumi International Airport to the city centre takes 45 minutes in good traffic. Times can more than double during rush hours or rain. If you already have a reservation at a hotel, a representative will have your name or hotel name written on a sign. If you haven’t made prior arrangements, take a taxi, limousine or the Airport Rail Link.

By taxi

Operating 24 hours daily, all taxis officially serving the airport are air-conditioned and metered. When you exit from the Arrival Hall, there is an official taxi booth outside on the 4th floor concourse. Join the queue and tell the person at the desk where you want to go to. A receipt will be issued, with the licence-plate number of the taxi and your destination in Thai written on it. Make sure the driver turns on the meter. At the end of your trip, pay what is on the meter plus the THB50 airport surcharge and the highway toll fees (about THB90 in total to downtown). Depending on traffic, an average fare from the airport to the city centre is around THB450 (including toll fees and airport surcharge).

By limousine

There are two limousine operators stationed at the Arrival Hall.

Airports of Thailand Limousines (AOT) (tel: 0-2134 2323–5) operates a variety of vehicles that can take you to the city centre for about THB1,050. Luxury cars such as a top-end 7-series BMW will cost THB2,300. Rates to Pattaya start at around THB2,700, depending on the vehicle used.

THAI Airways Limousines (mobile tel: 081-652 4444) also operates a premium car service. Prices are similar to those charged by AOT.

By rail

The 28km (18-mile) Suvarnabhumi Airport Rail Link (SARL) connects the airport to the city with two services. The City Line to Phaya Thai calls at eight stations en route – Lat Krabang, Ban Thap Chang, Hua Mak, Ramkhamhaeng, Asoke, Makkasan, Ratchaprarop and Phaya Thai – and takes 30 minutes for the full journey. It links to the Skytrain system at Phaya Thai. The Express Line runs direct to Bangkok City Air Terminal, at Makkasan, where passengers can check in and drop their luggage. Makkasan is linked by walkway to Phetchaburi Metro station. Tickets THB15–45. Journey time 15 mins to Makkasan, 30 mins to Phaya Thai. Both lines run 6am–midnight.

Public transport

Skytrain (BTS)

BTS Tourist Information Centre: tel: 0-2617 7341; hotline: 0-2617 6000; www.bts.co.th.

The Bangkok Transit System’s elevated train service, or Skytrain, is the perfect way of beating the city’s traffic-congested streets. The network’s ambitious plans are eventually to extend into provinces surrounding Bangkok.

It consists of two lines. The Sukhumvit Line runs from Mo Chit station in the north to Bearing in the southeast. The Silom Line runs from National Stadium, near Siam Square, south to Talad Phlu station, across the river in Thonburi. The lines intersect at Siam station.

The Skytrain is fast, frequent and clean, but suffers from overcrowding during peak hours. Accessibility, too, is a problem for the disabled and aged as there aren’t enough escalators or lifts.

Trains operate from 6am to midnight (3 minutes peak; 5 minutes off-peak). Single-trip fares range from THB15–42, depending on distance. There are self-service ticket machines on all station concourses. Tourists may find it more useful to buy the unlimited-ride 1-Day Pass (THB140) and there’s a Rabbit Card to which you can add discounted multi-trip packages running from THB345 for 15 trips to THB900 for 50 trips. The Rabbit Card is valid on the BRT and may eventually extend to the MRT. All are available at station counters.

MRT

Customer Relations Centre: tel: 0-2624 5200.

Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) has 19 stations in Blue Line, stretching 20km (12 miles) between Bang Sue in the northern suburbs of Bangkok to the city’s main railway station, Hualamphong, near Chinatown.

Three of its stations – Silom, Sukhumvit and Chatuchak Park – are interchanges, and passengers can transfer to the Skytrain network at these points.

The Purple Line, with its 16 stations, stretches from northwestern suburb of Nonthaburi to the southern area of Thonburi. The line runs through downtown passing Rattanakosin, Dusit, and Phra Nakhon District. The lines meet at Tao Poon.

Operating from 6am to midnight, the air-conditioned trains run frequently (2–4 minutes peak, 4–6 minutes off-peak). Fares range from THB16-41 for single-trip tokens.

Unlike the Skytrain, coin-sized plastic tokens are used instead of cards. These are dispensed by self-service ticket machines at all stations. Also available at station counters are the unlimited-ride 1-Day Pass (THB120); 3-Day Pass (THB230); 30-Day (THB1,400) and the stored-value Adult Card (THB200; includes THB50 deposit).

Taxis

Taxis are abundant in Bangkok. They are metered, air-conditioned, inexpensive, and comfortably seat 3 to 4 people.

Taxis are best hailed along the streets, as those parked outside hotels hustle for a non-metered fair. Metered taxis are recognisable by the sign on their roofs, with an illuminated red light above the dashboard indicating whether they are free or not.

The flag-fall charge is THB35; after the first 1km (0.5 mile), the meter goes up by THB5–8.5 every kilometre, depending on distance travelled. If stuck in traffic, a small per-minute surcharge kicks in. If your journey crosses town, ask the driver to take the expressway. Using the network of elevated two-lane roads can reduce travel time by half. The toll fare of THB20–50 is given to the driver at the payment booth, not at the end of the trip.

Before starting any journey, check whether the meter has been reset and turned on. Generally, drivers are far better than their reputations in this regard, but will try it on occasionally. This happens particularly if there is heavy rain, when it is sometimes wise to negotiate anyway, as traffic moves more slowly and the meter keeps ticking. Fares, however, can be negotiated for longer distances outside Bangkok: for instance, Pattaya (THB1,200); Ko Samet (THB1,500) or Hua Hin (THB1,500-B2,500).

Drivers don’t speak much English. They should know the locations of major hotels. Otherwise, it’s a good idea to have a destination written in Thai on a piece of paper. Thai drivers can usually understand street addresses written in capital Roman letters.

If you arrange for a pick-up, there is a THB20 surcharge.

Siam Taxi: hotline: tel: 1661

Tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks are the brightly coloured three-wheeled taxis whose name comes from the incessant noise their two-stroke engines make. Few tuk-tuk drivers speak English, so make sure your destination is written down in Thai. Unless you bargain hard, tuk-tuk fares are rarely lower than those of metered taxis.

Expect to pay THB30–50 for short journeys of a few blocks or around 15 minutes or less, and THB50–100 for longer journeys. A THB100 ride should get you a half-hour ride across most parts of downtown. Be sure to negotiate the fare beforehand.

Motorcycle taxis

Motorcycle-taxi stands (with young men in fluorescent orange vests) are clustered at the entrance of most soi (small sidestreets) and beside any busy intersection or building entrance. The drivers are experts at weaving through Bangkok’s heavy traffic and may cut travel time in half, but they can be reckless.

Hire only a driver who provides a passenger helmet. Fares must be negotiated beforehand, and they are rarely lower than taxi fares for the same distance travelled. Hold on tight and keep your knees tucked in because drivers tend to weave precariously in and out of traffic. If the driver is going too fast, ask him to slow down: cha-cha khap/kha.

Thai women usually ride side-saddle and it’s common see entire families on one motorbike.

A short distance, such as the length of a street, will cost THB10–20, with longer rides at THB50–100. During rush hours (8–10am and 4–6pm), prices are higher.

Buses

Bus transport in Bangkok is very cheap but can be arduous, time-consuming and confusing. Municipal and private operators all come under the charge of the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: 1348; www.bmta.co.th). With little English signage on show and few conductors or drivers speaking English, boarding the right bus is an exercise in frustration. Most bus maps are out of date, so stick to Bangkok’s alternative transport options. The Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system uses dedicated lanes, but is limited to one route from Chong Nonsi BTS station to Wong Wian Yai on the Thonburi side of the river.

Boats

The most common waterborne transport is the Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: 0-2449 3000; www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com), which travels from Tha Nonthaburi pier in the north and ends at Ratburana in the south. Boats run every 15 minutes on the main services from 6am–7pm, and they stop at different piers according to the coloured flag on top of the boat: blue, green-yellow, yellow, orange and no flag. The first two offer restricted commuter services. Otherwise, yellow-flag boats are fastest and do not stop at many piers, while the orange-flag and no-flag boats stop at most of the marked river piers. If unsure, check before boarding. Fares cost from THB10–40 and are paid to the conductor on board or at some pier counters.

The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat (tel: 0-2024 1342; www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com) operates daily from 9.30am to 4pm and costs THB150 per day for unlimited trips. After 3.30pm, you can also use the ticket on the regular express boats. A useful commentary is provided on board, along with a small guidebook and a bottle of water. The route begins at Tha Sathorn (Central Pier) and travels upriver to Tha Phra Arthit, stopping at 10 major piers along the way. Boats leave every 30 minutes.

Cross-river ferries are used for getting from one side of the river to the other. They can be boarded close to the jetties that also service the Chao Phraya River Express. Costing THB3.50 per journey, the cross-river ferries operate daily between 5am and 10pm or later.

The longtail canal boat taxis ply the narrow inner canals of Bangkok and are used for carrying passengers from the centre of town to the outlying districts. Many of the piers are located near traffic bridges and tickets cost THB5–15, depending on the distance, with services operating roughly every 10 minutes until 6 to 7pm.

Renting Longtail Boats

Rental cars

Driving in Bangkok has some frustrations, but with adjustments and jai yen (a cool heart), the experience is generally comfortable. The potential problems include: drivers cutting in front of you with little warning, narrow and busy side streets, rare use of signalling and motorbikes everywhere, so use of wing mirrors needs to be constant. It might sound scary, but drivers generally stick to their lane, at least, and if you’re used to city driving, there should be little to worry about.

An international driver’s licence is necessary to drive a car. A small car can be hired for around THB800 a day, check that insurance is included.

Avis, 13 Sathorn Soi 1 Sathorn Thai Road; tel: 0-2251 2011; and Suvarnabhami Airport (arrival hall); Reservation Centre, tel: 0-2251 1131–2; www.avisthailand.com.

Hertz, Sukon Court Sathorn, 46 North Sathorn Road; tel: 0- 2790 6194; www.hertzthailand.com.

Trips out of Bangkok

By road

Thailand has a good road system, with over 50,000km (31,000 miles) of motorways and more being built every year. Road signs are usually in both Thai and English and you should have no difficulty following a map. An international driver’s licence is required.

Unfortunately, driving on a narrow but busy road can be a terrifying experience, with right-of-way determined by size. It is not unusual for a bus to overtake a truck despite the fact that the oncoming lane is filled with vehicles. Another option is to hire a car or a van with driver for trips outside of Bangkok. Try Thai Car Hire (www.thaicarhire.com) or Krungthai Car Rent (tel: 0-2291 8888; www.krungthai.co.th). Rates start around THB1,500 per day.

You can get to several places outside the city, such as Pattaya and Hua Hin, by simply flagging a taxi along a Bangkok street or booking one beforehand (for more information, click here). Be sure to negotiate a flat rate before boarding; don’t use the meter.

By air

Thai Airways International (THAI) services a domestic network, with as many as 14 daily services to popular destinations such as Chiang Mai, Ko Samui and Phuket.

Bangkok Airways has several daily flights from Bangkok to Ko Samui, and to places including Krabi, Phuket and Trat. From Ko Samui, destinations include Krabi, Pattaya and Phuket. Among low-cost airlines, AirAsia has the widest portfolio, connecting with overseas and domestic destinations, including Hat Yai, Narathiwat and Surat Thani.

You can book and pay online with these airlines.

AirAsia: tel: 0-2215 9999; www.airasia.com.

Bangkok Airways: tel: 1771; www.bangkokair.com.

Nok Air: tel: 1318; www.nokair.com.

Orient Thai: tel: 02-900-5251; www.flyorientthai.com.

Thai Airways International: tel: 0-2356 1111; www.thaiair.com.

Thai Smile: tel: 1181; www.thaismileair.com.

By bus

Air-conditioned buses service many destinations in Thailand. VIP coaches with extra legroom are the best for overnight journeys. The Transport Company Ltd (www.transport.co.th), known locally as Bor Kor Sor (BKS), operates government-run buses. You can purchase bus tickets directly at BKS stations around the country or at a travel agency. Private buses, which are usually more expensive, depart either from BKS terminals or their own stations. In Bangkok, many leave from Thanon Khao San.

Bangkok BKS terminals are found at the following locations:

Eastern (Ekamai) Bus Terminal: Th. Sukhumvit opposite Soi 63; tel: 0-2391 2504.

Southern Bus Terminal: Th. Boromrat Chonnani, Thonburi; tel: 0-2434 7192

Central, Northeast and Northern (Mo Chit) Bus Terminal: Th. Khampaengphet 2; Central, tel: 0-2249 4484; Northeast, tel: 0-2936 2852; Northern, tel: 0-2936 3660.

By train

State Railway of Thailand (tel: 1690; www.railway.co.th) operates three principal routes – north, northeast and south – from Hualamphong Railway Station at Th. Rama 4; tel: 0-2220 4334. Express and rapid services on the main lines offer first-class air-conditioned or second-class fan-cooled carriages with sleeping cabins or berths. In addition to the above, some trains depart from Bangkok Noi Station, tel: 0-2411 3102, in Thonburi.

Eastern seaboard

Ko Si Chang

Getting there

By taxi

In Bangkok, a taxi can be booked to make the 100km (62-mile) journey to Si Racha, the jump-off point for the island of Ko Si Chang. The ride should take about 1–1.5 hours. Make sure to negotiate a flat rate before boarding; it should cost around THB1,300–1,600. Songthaew (pick-up trucks) on the pier can be negotiated for the return journey to Bangkok or for the onward journey to Pattaya (costing roughly THB400–550).

By bus

Air-conditioned buses leave every 40 minutes, from 5am to 9pm daily, from Bangkok’s Ekamai Bus Terminal for Si Racha bus station (THB98). The journey takes around 1.5 hours. You can take a tuk-tuk (THB40) from the bus station to Jarin pier.

By boat

Ferries to Ko Si Chang leave from Jarin pier every hour from 7am to 8pm daily. The journey takes around 40 minutes and costs THB50 one way. Ferries return to the mainland every hour from 8am to 6pm. Alternatively, private speedboats can also be hired at the pier for around THB1,000 one way.

Getting around

The easiest way to explore the island is on the local three-wheel motorcycle called samlor. Drivers can be hired for a 3- to 4-hour tour of the island for about THB250. Agree on the number of places you want to stop at first. A single journey to anywhere on the island costs around THB30.

Motorcycles can also be rented (THB250–300 per day) if you wish to explore on your own.

Pattaya

Getting there

By air

U-Tapao Airport in Sattahip, about 1 hour east of Pattaya, caters largely to chartered flights from Europe as well as domestic flights. Bangkok Airways has once-a-day connections to both Phuket and Ko Samui.

By taxi

Most hotels in Pattaya can arrange private transfers from Bangkok. Or you can book a taxi in Bangkok for the 147km (91-mile) trip to Pattaya. The ride takes 1.5–2 hours and costs around THB1,200 (including toll fees). Be sure to agree on the rate before boarding the taxi. There is also a limousine service direct from Suvarnabhumi International Airport direct to Pattaya (from THB2,600).

By bus

Air-conditioned buses leave every 40 minutes daily (5am–11pm) from Bangkok’s Ekamai Bus Terminal to Pattaya (THB120). The journey takes around 2 hours.

By minivan

Shared minivans leave Suvarnabhumi Airport thrice daily: 9am, noon and 7pm (THB300 per person).

Getting around

The easiest way to get around Pattaya is by songthaew trucks that run along Thanon Pattaya 2 and Thanon Hat Pattaya (Beach Road). The fare starts at THB10, but for longer rides towards Naklua and Jomtien, the fare goes up to THB50. Motorcycle taxis are common, but be sure to agree on the rate first. Motorcycles (THB200–700 per day) or cars (THB800–2,500 per day) can be rented from private operators or Avis at the Dusit hotel (tel: 0-3836 1627). There is also the Pattaya Beach Bus, which runs between Pattaya and Jomtien. Tickets cost THB20.

Ko Samet

Getting there

By taxi

Taxis in Bangkok can be booked for the 200km (124-mile) journey to Ban Phe pier in Rayong province. The ride will take approximately 3 hours and will cost THB1,900–2,300. Be sure to bargain the rate before boarding. Near the 7-11 store opposite Ban Phe pier, taxis await passengers for rides back to Bangkok, Pattaya (THB500–1,000) or on to Trat (THB1,500), the jump-off point for Ko Chang.

By bus

Air-conditioned buses leave every hour (5am–9pm) from Ekamai Bus Terminal in Bangkok for Ban Phe pier in Rayong. The journey takes around 3–3.5 hours and the fare is THB175 one way.

By minivan

Private tour companies in Bangkok operate tourist minivans departing from Thanon Khao San, Victory Monument and designated tour agents and hotels in Bangkok to Ban Phe pier for about THB250–300 per person. Return trips can be arranged with resorts and tour counters on Ko Samet or at travel agents near Ban Phe pier. Typically, operators will try to cram the van full before leaving (11 pax), which may well add a considerable delay to your journey.

By boat

Fishing boats leave Ban Phe pier, across from the bus station, every hour or when there are enough passengers. Decide which beach you will be staying at before picking your boat. The journey to the main Na Dan pier on Ko Samet takes around 30 minutes and costs THB50 one way. Some boats continue on to Ao Wong Deuan, but there are also direct boats from Ban Phe to Ao Wong Deuan, the 40-minute ride costing THB60. If there are a few of you, consider hiring a speedboat as it is much faster. Expect to pay about THB1,000 to Hat Sai Kaew or Ao Phai, and about THB1,200 to Ao Wong Deuan.

Getting around

With Ko Samet only 6km (4 miles) from north to south, walking to most places is relatively easy. The island has little in the way of paved roads and songthaew trucks are the only transportation option. These trucks shuttle visitors from Na Dan pier to the beaches for THB10–50, depending on distance. Motorcycles are available for hire (THB100–300 per day) but this is quite pointless with little more than one dirt track running down the centre of the island.

Ko Chang

Getting there

By air

Bangkok Airways operates three daily flights from Bangkok to Trat airport. The journey takes less than an hour. From the airport take a 20-minute taxi or songthaew ride to Laem Ngop pier. Larger hotels will arrange transportation (by minivan from the airport and boat to Ko Chang) for around THB200–250 per person for shared transfers and considerably more for private transfers (THB750 and up).

By taxi

Travelling by road from Bangkok is not the best way of getting to Ko Chang because of the 300km (190-mile) distance. You can arrange for a taxi in Bangkok to make the 5-hour ride to Laem Ngop pier in Trat Province for a flat rate of THB3,000. Make sure you agree on the rate beforehand to avoid confusion at the end of the journey. For the return journey to Bangkok, private taxis are available near Laem Ngop pier for around the same price.

By bus

Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Ekamai Bus Terminal for Trat every 90 minutes between 6am and 11.30pm. Tickets cost THB230–290 one way, depending on the route. In addition there are five daily bus departures from Northeastern (Mo Chit) Bus Terminal between 6am and 11pm. The ride takes around 6 hours. From Trat bus station take a songthaew truck to Laem Ngop pier, about 17km (11 miles) away.

By minivan

Private tour companies in Bangkok operate tourist minivans departing from Thanon Khao San, Victory Monument and designated tour agents and hotels in Bangkok to Laem Ngop pier in Trat for about THB500–600 per person. Return trips can be arranged with resorts and tour counters on Ko Chang or at travel agents near Laem Ngop pier. Typically, operators will try to cram the van full before leaving (11 pax), adding considerable delay to your journey.

By boat

Passenger and car ferries leave from three different piers in Laem Ngop. The journey on the passenger ferry to Tha Dan Kao pier on Ko Chang (which most people use) takes 50 minutes and costs THB80 one way, THB120 return. During the peak season from Nov to Apr, boats depart hourly from 6am to 5pm; at other times of the year, departures are once every two hours. Larger car ferries depart from other points on Laem Ngop, and they accept non-vehicular passengers as well.

Getting Around

With one paved road that runs almost all round the island, songthaews are the only way of getting around. From Tha Dan Kao pier in Ko Chang, expect to pay THB30 to Hat Sai Khao, THB50 to Ao Khlong Phrao and Hat Kai Bae, THB70 to Hat Tha Nam. Motorcycles (THB250–300 per day) and cars (THB1,000–2,000 per day) can be rented, but be careful as there are steep hills on both sides of the island.

Northern Gulf Coast

Petchaburi

Getting there

By taxi

A taxi in Bangkok can be booked for the 120km (75-mile) ride to Petchaburi. The ride will take 2 hours and cost THB800–1,100. Be sure to agree on the rate before boarding.

By bus

Express buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal every two hours between 11am and 5pm, stopping at Petchaburi and Cha-am before heading to Hua Hin. The journey to Petchaburi takes around 2 hours (THB112).

By train

There are 12 departures on the Southern Line from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station between 8.05am and 10.50pm daily. Trains take around 4 hours (depending on the service) to get to Petchaburi. Ticket prices vary, depending on the choice of train and class of travel.

Getting around

Samlor (three-wheel motorcycles) and songthaew trucks are Petchaburi’s principal mode of public transport. Rates for trips around town average between THB10 and THB20. Motorcycle taxis are common, with fares ranging from THB20–30 for a short journey. If you prefer to get around on your own, motorcycles (THB250 per day) and bicycles (THB120) can be rented at the Rabieng Rim Nam Guesthouse (tel: 0-3242 5707).

Cha-am

Getting there

By taxi

A taxi in Bangkok can be booked for the ride to Cha-am, 178km (111 miles) away. The cost is about THB1,000–1,300, and it will take about 3 hours to get there. Resorts in Cha-am can also arrange for car or minivan transfers. Limousines can be arranged at Bangkok International Airport to Cha-am. Depending on the car used, it will cost between THB2,800 and THB5,000.

By bus

Buses leave from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes daily between 6.30am and 5.30pm, stopping at Petchaburi and then at Cha-am. Travel time is approximately 3 hours to Cha-am; the one-way ticket price is THB142. The airport shuttles to Hua Hin will stop at Cha-am if you tell the driver beforehand.

By train

There are 2 departures on the Southern Line from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station at 9.20am and 3.35pm daily. Trains take around 4 hours to get to Cha-am. Ticket prices vary, depending on the choice of train and class of travel.

Getting around

Cha-am is best suited for those with their own transport. Motorcycles, bicycles and cars can be rented from numerous resorts. Along the beach road you can take a two-seater samlor for around THB30, while vendors also rent three-person bikes for THB60 an hour. Motorcycle taxis are common, with fares ranging from THB20–30 for a short ride.

Hua Hin and Pranburi

Getting there

By taxi

A taxi from Bangkok to Hua Hin, 203km (126 miles) away, will take approximately 3 hours. Expect to pay between THB1,500 and B2,300 and make sure you agree on the rate beforehand. Limousines can be arranged at Bangkok International Airport to Hua Hin for THB2,800 to THB5,000, depending on the type of car and location of the drop-off. Pranburi, for instance, is 23km (14 miles) south of Hua Hin and transfers will cost more. Resorts in Hua Hin and Pranburi can also arrange for transfers by car or minivan. Make enquiries at the time of booking.

By bus

Buses leave from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal every 30 minutes between 6.30am and 5.30pm, making stops at Petchaburi and Cha-am first before arriving at Hua Hin. Journey time is roughly 3 hours to Hua Hin. One-way tickets cost THB160. There are also six shuttle buses between 7.30am and 7.30pm from Suvarnabhumi airport to Hua Hin, priced THB350.

By train

There are 12 daily departures on the Southern Line from Bangkok’s main Hualamphong Station between 8.05am and 10.50pm. Trains take from 3.5 hours (depending on the service) to get to Hua Hin, which has a quaint colonial-style station. Ticket prices vary, depending on the choice of train and class of travel.

Getting around

Samlor (three-wheel motorcycles) and songthaew trucks are Hua Hin’s principal mode of public transportation. Rates for short rides around town average between THB10 and THB20, while a ride to resorts located in Pranburi cost between THB40 and THB50. Motorcycle taxis are common, with fares ranging from THB20–30 for a short journey.

For independent travel, motorcycles and cars can be hired by visiting the various stands and shops all over town.

Ko Samui, Ko Phangan and Ko Tao

Ko Samui

Getting there

By air

Bangkok Airways owns the airport at Ko Samui and enjoyed a long monopoly on flights; although that has now ended, ticket prices are still among the highest in the country. From Bangkok, there are some 20 daily flights to Ko Samui operated by Bangkok Airways and Thai Airways (flight time is 70 minutes). Bangkok Airways also connects Ko Samui with Phuket, Krabi, U-Tapao (Pattaya), Trat (Ko Chang), Chiang Mai and Sukhothai.

Bangkok Airways also flies from Ko Samui direct to several regional cities, including Luang Prabang, Phnom Penh, Singapore and Hong Kong.

If you haven’t made arrangements with your hotel for an airport pick-up, you can take a taxi. The driver will quote THB500 for a ride to Chaweng. Private minivans also take passengers to the different beaches, though they usually wait until the van is full before leaving. Typical minivan fares are THB130 to Bo Phut, Chaweng, THB150to Maenam, and THB200 to Nathon and Lamai.

By bus

Private tour companies along Bangkok’s Thanon Khao San run bus services from there to Surat Thani (the jump-off point for Ko Samui). The ride takes about 8 to 9hours and costs THB500 to THB1000, depending on the type of bus and whether the ferry ticket to Ko Samui is included. Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal as well, from 7am to 8.30pm. The cost and duration are about the same as that of private companies.

Much quicker is the Lomprayah VIP bus (tel: 0-2629 2569; www.lomprayah.com) from Bangkok (departs 6am or 9pm) or Hua Hin (departs 8.30am or 11.30am) to Chumphon, which connects with the Lomprayah catamaran (departs 1.20pm or 7am) to Ko Samui (via Ko Tao and Ko Phangan). The entire trip to the island takes about 10.5 hours during the day or just over 14 hours overnight. A one-way ticket costs THB1,400 to THB1,450, including catamaran.

By train

There are a dozen daily train departures to Surat Thani from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station, running from 8.05am to 10.50pm. The journey takes approximately 9 to 12 hours (depending on the train service). The station is in Phunpin, which is 13km (8 miles) from Surat Thani Town.

By boat

If you don’t fly direct to Ko Samui, most land transport will deposit you at Surat Thani. Here, several companies operate passenger and car ferries to Ko Samui from Don Sak, Ban Don and Pak Nam Tapi piers. Boats leave approximately every 1 to 2 hours’ from 5am to 7pm, and take around 1.5 to 2.5 hours (depending on the boat). There is also a slow 6.5-hour night ferry from Ban Don pier. Depending on the operator, tickets cost THB120 to THB350. Most ferries arrive at Ko Samui’s main pier at Na Thon, which is around 40 minutes by songthaew to Chaweng beach. Some ferries carry on to Ko Phangan from Na Thon pier.

Getting around

Songthaew trucks are the island’s principal mode of public transport. Drivers always try to overcharge so make sure you hand over the correct fare. A journey down the length of Chaweng beach is THB20, from Na Thon to Chaweng THB60, with generally journey costing no more than THB60. Late at night they operate more like taxis and the fare should be agreed on beforehand.

Metered taxis are becoming prevalent on the island but drivers rarely turn on the meter, preferring to quote extortionate rates for relatively short distances.

Motorcycle taxis are cheaper, with fares ranging from THB20 to THB30 for a short journey, and THB150 to THB200 for a longer ride from, say, Chaweng to Na Thon.

A variety of motorcycles, from mopeds to choppers (THB200–1,000), as well as jeeps (THB1,000–2,000), can be hired at all the main beaches. Motorcycle accidents are frequent, so make sure you wear a helmet.

Ko Phangan

Getting there

By air

It is possible to fly from Bangkok to Ko Samui and then take a ferry to Ko Phangan. A slightly cheaper, though more time-consuming option, is to fly to the mainland Surat Thani Airport, transfer to a connecting bus to the pier and then connect by ferry to Ko Phangan.

By bus and train

Surat Thani is the jump-off point for Ko Phangan, so the bus and train transportation is the same as Ko Samui’s (for more information, click here).

By boat

From Surat Thani, there are six daily ferries departing from either Don Sak, Ban Don or Pak Nam Tapi piers to Thong Sala pier on Ko Phangan. The boats take around 2–3 hours. A night ferry from Ban Don takes about 7 hours. Tickets cost B380–700 (depending on the service).

From Ko Samui, there are four daily ferries from Na Thon pier to Thong Sala pier on Ko Phangan. The ride takes 30–90 minutes and tickets cost from THB150. Additionally there are several daily ferries and speedboats from MaeNam and Bangrak (Big Buddha) beaches in Ko Samui bound for Hat Rin on Ko Phangan. Lomprayah (for more information, click here) also have quick catamaran services.

Getting around

Songthaew trucks traverse the main roads, with the average fare around THB50 from Thong Sala town to anywhere on the island, except Ban Khai (THB30) or further-flung places such as Ao Thong Nai Pan (THB80). Motorcycle-taxi fares range from THB20–30 for a short journey, to THB150–200 from Thong Sala to Hat Rin. Note: songthaews don’t move until they are full, so if you wish to charter one, expect to pay about THB250 or more for a trip.

Motorcycles (THB150–500) and jeeps (THB800–1,500) can be hired at the island’s main centres. The roads are tricky and accidents common, so exercise caution. Rent from reputable place as bike scams, in which you have to pay for non-existent scratches and repairs, are still a too often thing on the island.

Ko Tao

Getting there

By bus, train and air

Surat Thani is the jump-off point for Ko Tao, so the plane, bus and train transportation is the same as Ko Phangan’s.

Alternatively, you can use Chumphon as a base to get to Ko Tao. Buses travel regularly from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal to Chumphon (7 hours), where you can take a ferry to Ko Tao. There are also regular train departures to Chumphon from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station.

By boat

From Chumphon, the boat ride to Ko Tao takes about 1.5–3 hours. There are at least five daily boat departures from the pier at Pak Nam port in Chumphon to Ban Mae pier on Ko Tao. The night boat takes about 6 hours. Depending on the operator, tickets cost around THB350 to THB700 one way.

From Surat Thani, the boat to Ban Mae pier on Ko Tao takes about 6.5 hours (once daily); the night boat takes about 9 hours. From Ko Phangan, it takes about 1.5 hours (5 times daily); and from Ko Samui the ride takes 2–3 hours (5 times daily). These varying travel times reflect the different type of boats used, ranging from catamarans and speedboats to ferries.

Getting around

Songthaew trucks run along the island’s main road from Hat Sai Ree to Ao Chalok Ban Kao in the south. The average fare from the main village of Mae Hat to either Hat Sai Ree or Ao Chalok Ban Kao is THB150; travel to further beaches such as Ao Leuk will cost around THB200. Motorcycle taxis run the same routes for around the same price and they can also access some of the dirt tracks. Rates rise considerably later at night. Motorcycles (THB150–500 per day) and jeeps (THB800–1,500 per day) can be hired, but most of the island’s tracks are still not sealed so caution is advised. Depending on sea conditions, longtail boats carry passengers to the island’s less-accessible beaches, with fares from Mae Hat to Ao Chalok Ban Kao costing THB150; to Ko Nang Yuan THB100; and to Ao Tanote THB300. Some boats will only leave with a minimum number of people; otherwise the boat can be chartered.

Northern Andaman Coast

Ranong and Surroundings

Getting there

By air

Ranong Airport is situated 24km (15 miles) north of Ranong Town. Ranong is not the most lucrative route in the country, and several airlines that started scheduled flights to the town have later stopped. Alternatively, travellers can fly into Phuket, Krabi (for more information, click here) or Surat Thani and then take a bus journey to Ranong.

By road

All the air-conditioned buses that travel daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal to Phuket and Krabi pass the Ranong bus station just off Highway 4. The 600km (373-mile) journey takes around 9–10 hours. It is also possible to get to Ranong from either Phuket or Krabi, some 300km (185 miles) away by bus (the ride takes about 4–5 hours) or Surat Thani (3 hours). Alternatively, take a train to Chumphon and a bus to Ranong (2 hours).

Getting around

Ranong

Songthaew trucks and motorcycle taxis are the primary mode of transport on Ranong. These run frequently from Thanon Ruangrat in the town centre to locations near the town and to Laem Son National Park, 60km (37 miles) south of Ranong.

Ko Chang and Ko Phayam

The islands of Ko Chang and Ko Phayam can be reached by boats departing from the Ranong port area. Timetables frequently change and getting a straight answer is difficult. One solution is to pre-arrange a boat pick-up with your chosen resort; the trip is THB200 and takes just under 3 hours (despite claims of 1–2 hours). A quicker speedboat service occasionally operates, which takes only 40 minutes, but tickets cost as much as THB500. Note: boats only make the trip if there is enough demand. The only form of transport on Ko Chang and Ko Phayam is motorcycle taxis.

Surin Islands

The closest mainland base to the Surin Islands is Khura Buri pier, about 110km (68 miles) south of Ranong Town. Boats depart daily at 9am and take between 4 and 5 hours to reach the islands. It is also possible to take a boat from Amphoe Kapoe pier in Ranong Town. Trips leave daily during the November to April high season and take around 7 hours to get there. Note: most people who travel to the Surin Islands are divers on live-aboard boats.

Khao Lak and Similan Islands

Getting there

By air and road

Khao Lak is situated just off Highway 4, some 780km (485 miles) south of Bangkok and 80km (50 miles) north of Phuket. The easiest way to get there is to fly to Phuket (for more information, click here) and take one of the airport minibuses (THB2,200) or taxis (THB1,300) from there. The journey time from Phuket airport to Khao Lak is just over an hour. By regular bus it takes around two hours and costs THB80.

Getting around

Khao Lak

Motorcycle taxis and songthaew are the primary mode of transport along Khao Lak’s several beaches. Songthaews can be hailed from the road, and fares range from THB20 to THB50 for anywhere within Khao Lak. They can also be chartered like taxis, but make sure that you agree on the price before you get in.

Alternatively, motorcycles and cars can be hired. Inquire at your hotel reception desk for more information.

Similan Islands

The easiest departure point for the Similan Islands is Khao Lak, but Phuket is also a jump-off point for a large number of Similan-bound diving and snorkelling excursions. Boats only operate from Nov–Apr, after which time the waters are deemed too rough and dangerous to cross.

Thap Lamu pier, located about 8km (5 miles) south of Khao Lak, is where boats depart on the 3-hour journey to the Similan Islands. Most tours from Phuket travel by road to Thap Lamu pier and then make the connection to the islands by boat.

Ao Phang Ngaand Khao Sok National Park

Getting there

By air and road

Phang Nga is 790km (490 miles) south of Bangkok and 90km (55 miles) north of Phuket. The easiest and the most common ways to get to Phang Nga are to fly first to either Phuket (for more information, click here) or Krabi (for more information, click here) and from there take an airport minibus (THB3000) or taxi (THB1,500–2,000). Phang Nga is midway between Phuket and Krabi on Highway 4. If you’re travelling alone it’s worth trying to find travelling companions to share a taxi with at the airport.

Getting around

Motorcycle taxis and songthaew trucks are the primary mode of transport in Phang Nga. But the town is also small enough to get around on foot.

Tours of Phang Nga Bay and Khao Sok National Park are best handled by travel agencies in Phang Nga. Generally, however, more people tend to visit these places from their base in Khao Lak, Phuket or Krabi. Enquire with travel agents at these places for more information.

Phuket

Getting there

By air

Phuket International Airport (http://phuketairportthai.com; tel: 0-7632 7230/6) is located in the north of the island. Though most visitors to Phuket stop off in Bangkok first for a few days, many also fly directly to Phuket from Hong Kong (Dragonair, Thai Airways, Air Asia, Hong Kong Express), Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, Malindo Air, Bangkok Airways), Shanghai (Shanghai Airlines, Junyao, Spring), Sydney (Jetstar) and Singapore (Singapore Airlines, Jetstar Asia, Tiger Airways, Air Asia). Internally, Thai Airways offers daily flights from Bangkok, while Bangkok Airways flies daily from Bangkok and Ko Samui. Several budget airlines fly to Phuket from Bangkok, including Orient Thai Airlines, AirAsia and Nok Air (for more information, click here).

By road

Air-conditioned buses from the Southern Bus Terminal in Bangkok make the 14-hour overnight trip to Phuket. But with so many cheap flights there, this uncomfortable option is even less appealing. Air-conditioned buses depart daily for nearby Krabi, Phang Nga, Ranong, Surat Thani, Satun, Hat Yai and Trang from Bus Terminal 2, in Phuket Town (Th. Thepkrasattri; tel: 0-7621 1977).

By boat

Boats from Krabi and Ko Phi Phi to Phuket normally drop passengers off at Rassada pier in Phuket Town. It takes roughly 2.5 hours from Ko Phi Phi and 3 hours from Krabi. Boats from Ko Lanta travel via Krabi or Ko Phi Phi. Between May and October, boats may stop operating due to wet weather.

The islands south of Phuket, such as Ko Bon, Ko Hae, Ko Kaeo (Buddha Island) and Ko Racha, can be visited by chartering a longtail boat from Rawai beach, and, except for Ko Racha, can be reached in 10–20 minutes. Visitors to further-flung Ko Racha usually join a day trip on a larger, quicker boat from Chalong pier. Depending on sea conditions, transfer time is 45–60 minutes to Ko Racha. The Racha resort on the island can also arrange both the land transfer from the airport and the boat trip for hotel guests – albeit at inflated rates.

Getting around

From the airport

Travelling to Phuket Town or Patong from the airport generally takes about 30 minutes. Even during the high season, traffic flows freely. If you plan to drive, Hertz and Avis (for more information, click here) both have car-rental counters at the airport.

Taxi: In the Arrival Hall, airport taxis and limousines can be hired at set rates displayed on a board. After paying the fare, a coupon is issued that is then given to the driver. Prices are THB200–400 for the nearby northern beaches, rising to THB550 to THB750 for different locations in Patong. Trips to hotels on Kata and Karon have a flat fare of THB650. Alternatively, there are red and yellow metered taxis outside the airport (you may need to insist that they turn on the meter). The price is around THB400 to Phuket Town.

Minivans: Shared minivans (around THB100 to Phuket Town, THB150 to Patong) have ticket counters in the arrival hall. If you are part of a large group, book a quicker 8-seater minibus. The fares are around THB900 to Phuket Town, THB1,200–1,500 to Patong and THB1,300 to Kata and Karon. Tickets are sold next to the limousine booths.

Airport bus: Tickets for the airport bus can be bought on boarding or from booths in the arrival hall. At the time of writing, the bus only travels to Phuket Town, with several stops along the main route only (www.airportbusphuket.com). It takes around 75 minutes. The full fare is THB100.

Taxis and Tuk-tuks

Public transport in Phuket is notoriously poor. There are few metered taxis and those that have meters will never use them. Taxi fares have to be negotiated, except for taxis boarded from taxi stands at major shopping centres and some beaches, where prices are fixed.

Tuk-tuks are plentiful, but prices are among the highest in Thailand, costing nearly as much as taxis. Agree on a price before getting in a tuk-tuk, and be aware that it will be more expensive at night and during rainy spells. Unlike those in Bangkok, Phuket’s tuk-tuks have four wheels instead of three and are painted bright red. These converted open-air vans have two benches in the back, and are not very comfortable on long journeys. Expect to pay from THB300 for a trip between Phuket Town and Patong, and about THB200–250 between Patong and Kata or Karon, although it ultimately comes down to what you can negotiate in the end.

Motorcycle taxis are a cheaper but more dangerous way to travel, with at least one death per week resulting from road collisions occurring during the high season.

Songthaew

Small, blue public buses called songthaew shuttle passengers from the market on Th. Ranong in Phuket Town to the main beaches. They leave every half-hour between 6am and 6pm (return journeys end at 4pm). The songthaew to Rawai and Nai Harn depart from Th. Bangkok. There are no songthaew connections between beaches. Songthaews move very slowly and stop frequently to cram in as many local passengers as possible, but the fare is only THB30–40.

Rented cars

Driving in Phuket can certainly be challenging. Motorists frequently resist giving way, and exceed the speed limit. It is not uncommon to see trucks overtaking on blind corners. As a result, road accidents are shockingly common, most involving motorcyclists. An alarming number of people also drink and drive, in part because of limited public transport.

The roads outside the centre of town are less busy, making driving almost pleasurable. Note, however, that scenic roads during the day become pitch black and hazardous to navigate come nightfall.

Standard car rental ranges from THB700 to THB2,500 a day. Use a reputable company because many of the independent beachfront businesses will not provide insurance.

Avis, Phuket Airport; tel: 08-9969 8674; www.avisworld.com.

Budget, Phuket Airport (also opposite the airport and in Patong); tel: 0-7632 7744; www.budget.co.th.

Europcar, Phuket Airport; tel: 08-1904 6521; www.europcar.com

Krabi and surroundings

Krabi Town and beaches

Getting There

By Air

Krabi International Airport (tel: 0-7563 6541/2; www.krabiairportonline.com) is about 18km (11 miles) east of Krabi Town. Although most visitors to Krabi and its surrounding islands stop off in Bangkok first, several airlines have international routes, such as Air Asia (www.airasia.com) from, Kuala Lumpur; Juneao Airlines (www.juneyaoair.com) and NewGen Airlines (www.newgenairways.com ) from mainland China; Tigerair (www.tigerair.com) from Singapore; Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com) from Doha; and Ural Airlines (www.uralairlines.com) from Beijing and Yekaterinburg. Domestically, airlines flying from Bangkok to Krabi are Bangkok Airways (also from Ko Samui), Air Asia (also from Chiang Mai) and Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com).

If you haven’t made arrangements with your hotel for pick-up at the airport, use one of the airport taxis. Fares are about THB400 to Krabi Town and approximately THB650 to THB750 to Krabi’s beaches. Travel time from Krabi Airport to the town centre takes around 30 minutes, with Ao Nang beach taking slightly less time. Pay the posted fare at the counter in the Arrival Hall and avoid the touts that hover outside the terminal. Minivans from the airport are slower but cost only THB150 to Krabi Town. There is also a shuttle bus that will take you to the bus station for THB80 and to Krabi Town for THB90.

By bus and taxi

Air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal daily for Krabi on the 12-hour overnight journey. Tickets range in price, as do levels of comfort. There are also direct buses from Phuket (3.5 hours), Hat Yai (6 hours) and Ko Samui (2.5 hours via Surat Thani on the mainland). Travel agents in any of these areas will advise on buying tickets. Note: in Krabi Town, the public buses terminate at Talat Kao, about 5km (3 miles) north of town, while private tour buses end up at Andaman Wave Master station in the town centre. Local buses and taxis run from both stations to the beaches and the pier.

Taking a taxi from Phuket, Hat Yai or Ko Samui is quicker. From Phuket Airport, for instance, a taxi to Krabi will cost THB2,500–3,000 and make the trip in 2.5 hours. If you can get a cheap air ticket to Phuket (for more information, click here), you could fly to Phuket and then take a taxi to Krabi.

By boat

During the high season, it’s possible to take a boat from Phuket via Ko Phi Phi to Krabi. The journey from Ko Phi Phi is approximately 2 hours; from Phuket it’s just under 3 hours. Boats from Phuket and Ko Phi Phi arrive at Krabi Passenger Pier on Th. Tharua. Enquire with travel agents at either of these destinations as there are boats of varying quality and speeds available.

Getting around

Non-metered taxis, motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks can be hired from Krabi Town and the beaches. The drivers in town often speak limited English, although those who operate around the beaches are more than adept at negotiating prices. Expect to pay between THB200 and THB400 for a short half-hour ride in a taxi or tuk-tuk (both charge about the same rates). Local bus services are provided by songthaew – converted pick-up trucks with two wooden benches in the back.

Krabi Town and the beach road are full of car-rental companies, many offering cheap deals but often without the security of full insurance. Check on this before renting. Budget (www.budget.co.th; tel: 0-7570 1455) is one of several options at Krabi Airport. Motorcycles are available for hire along Ao Nang beach road but be sure to wear a safety helmet.

Railay Bay

Longtail boats make the 45-minute trip from Krabi Town (or 15 minutes from Ao Nang) to the Railay beaches throughout the day. They charge a fixed rate of THB100 (THB60 from Ao Nang) per person each way, but only leave once they have six people. Prices rise after 7pm. There is a stone walkway from the boat at Railay beach, which will be partially under water at low tide, so prepare for a short (and possibly slippery) wade. You can also hire boats for the day at a negotiated rate.

Ko Phi Phi

Getting there

Although Ko Phi Phi is, administratively speaking, within Krabi Province, it is located about the same distance from both mainland Krabi and Phuket, roughly 2 hours by boat. Advance Aviation runs helicopter trips, including transfers to Ko Phi Phi, from Phuket (www.advanceaviation.co.th). The price is around THB78,000 per hour, but the machine holds six people.

Ferries from Krabi depart from the Passenger Ferry Terminal on Th. Tharua in Krabi Town; those in Phuket leave from Phuket Town’s Rassada Pier. All boats land on Ao Ton Sai on the larger island of Ko Phi Phi Don. Tickets can be purchased at travel agents in both Phuket and Krabi, but ask around as they charge vastly different fees for the same boats. If you’ve booked accommodation on Ko Phi Phi, get your hotel to arrange the boat transfers for you. There is now an entry fee, of about THB20, for people staying on Phi Phi, payable on disembarkation.

Note: many people do Ko Phi Phi as a day trip from Phuket or Krabi; packages with round-trip transfers, lunch and snorkelling cost anything from THB1,200 to THB1,800, depending on the type of boat used.

Between the months of May and October, ferries may not run due to bad weather, in which case private transfers can be arranged through travel agents.

Getting around

There are no roads on Ko Phi Phi, so the main way to get around is on foot. Distances between some of the main beaches are short and pathways flat. Longtail boats will make the journey from the Laem Thong beach at the north of the island to Ton Sai in the south for about THB400 or more, but may be reluctant to make the 1-hour journey back once darkness falls. Shorter rides to closer beaches will cost from THB50 to THB100.

Ko Lanta

Getting there

It is not possible to fly directly to Ko Lanta. You will have to get to Krabi (for more information, click here) first and then make the transfer by boat (some airlines will include a boat transfer in the ticket price). Ferries from Krabi depart from the Passenger Ferry Terminal, located 3km (2 miles) west of the town centre on Th. Tharua. Boats leave at 11am daily and dock at Ban Sala Dan pier on the northern tip of Ko Lanta. The journey takes around 2 hours, but note that boats do not operate during the May–Oct monsoon season. Alternatively, if you have booked accommodation on Ko Lanta, get your hotel to arrange the land and boat transfers.

There are two direct ferries from Phuket to Ko Lanta at 8.30am and 1.30 pm from Rassada Pier. Otherwise, you can catch the ferry to Ko Phi Phi from Phuket’s Rassada Pier (8.30am, 9 am, 11am 1.30pm, and 3pm) and then take a connecting ferry (11.30am and 3pm) to Ko Lanta.

Getting around

The road surfaces on Ko Lanta have undergone development works recently and are much improved, although island transportation remains difficult as there are no taxis available. Some guesthouses and higher-end resorts offer transfer services to the beaches and to Sala Dan village where there are motorcycle taxis, which here are very like small tuk-tuks.

Jeeps can be hired from rental agencies in Ban Sala Dan, and the majority of guesthouses can arrange motorbike rental for you. Be aware, though, that neither of these options is likely to include adequate, or in the case of motorbikes, any form of insurance. Safety helmets are strongly advised.

Some of the more upmarket resorts on Ko Lanta will arrange boat transfers directly to the beach they are located on for guests, dispensing with the need for any road travel.

Trang, Satun and Songkhala

Trang Town and beaches

Getting there

By air

Trang Airport (tel: 0-7557 2229) is located about 4km (2 miles) south of Trang Town. There are daily flights between Bangkok and Trang on Nok Air, AirAsia, and Thai Lion Air. From the airport, tuk-tuks cost around THB150 to Trang Town, and World Travel (tel: 0-7521 4010/1) operates minivans to Trang Town (THB500) or to Trang’s beaches (THB1,000). Alternatively, resorts also arrange airport transportation for guests.

It is also possible to fly to Krabi, where there are more air connections (for more information, click here) and then take the taxi to either Trang Town or directly to its beaches for THB1,800–2,300. The ride will take about 75 minutes.

By train, bus and taxi

There are two overnight trains daily between Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station and Trang, taking about 15 hours. Buses leave Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal for Trang daily, taking about 12 hours. The bus terminal in Trang is at Th. Huay Yot. Ticket prices vary, depending on type of bus.

In addition, there are bus connections from nearby destinations such as Phuket (4 hours), Krabi (2.5 hours) and Hat Yai (4 hours).

Getting around

Motorcycle taxi and tuk-tuk trips within Trang Town cost between THB20–THB30 for short rides. Taxis and minivans to Trang’s beaches will cost between THB300–400.

The jump-off point for Ko Hai and Ko Muk is Pak Meng pier, while the pier at Ban Chao Mai serves Ko Kradan, Ko Libong and Ko Sukorn; from these piers daily boats serve the islands. Or you can charter a longtail boat; be sure to negotiate the price (THB200–400, depending on distance). Most island resorts will arrange transfers if you have booked a room with them.

Satun and Ko Tarutao National Park

Getting there

Getting to Satun isn’t easy. The closest airport to Satun Town is in Hat Yai (for more information, click here), 130km (80 miles) away on the east coast. From Hat Yai, there are buses and taxis that make the trip to Satun Town. Or travel by road from Trang, 140km (87 miles) away.

From Bangkok’s Hualamphong Station, there are five trains a day to Hat Yai, from where you can travel by road to Satun. The train journey alone will take 14 to 18 hours, and all are essentially overnight services. From Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal there are several air-conditioned buses every day bound for Satun, taking at least 13 hours to cover the 973km (605 miles).

Getting around

Downtown Satun Town is compact enough to walk to most destinations. Motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks are also available, and should cost THB20–30 between any point in town. For information on getting to Ko Tarutao National Park.

Ko Tarutao N P

Boats to Ko Tarutao National Park leave from Pak Bara, 60km (40 miles) north of Satun Town. Although in Satun Province, Pak Bara is more easily accessible from Hat Yai and Trang than from Satun Town; both Hat Yai and Trang have direct bus services to the pier. From Satun Town you can hire a songthaew to take you to Pak Bara. At Pak Bara pier are numerous touts and agencies selling tickets to the islands. A round-trip ticket costs THB1200 and allows ticket-holders to disembark at any of the islands. There are few daily boats leaving Pak Bara, at 11.30am, 12.30pm, 1.30pm and at 3.30pm. The trip to Ko Tarutao takes around 1 hour and Ko Adang or Ko Lipe 3 to 4 hours.

Songkhla and Hat Yai

Getting there

Hat Yai Airport (http://hatyaiairportthai.com ; tel: 0- 7425 1007 12) is located 12km (8 miles) from the city and is a major hub for both international and domestic flights. It is serviced by several airlines, including AirAsia, Nok Air, Tiger Air, Thai Smile Airways , and Thai Airways.

From Bangkok, there are five trains a day to Hat Yai, 900km (560 miles) away. Travel time is 14 to 18 hours, depending on the type of train, so it is best to book a sleeper on the overnight train. Several air-conditioned buses depart daily from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal on the 14-hour trip to Hat Yai.

Hat Yai is less than 50km (30 miles) from the Malaysian border, and it’s possible to travel between the two countries. There are countless tourist buses that run between Hat Yai and major cities in Malaysia, including Penang and Kuala Lumpur, and even as far as Singapore. Contact any of the travel agents in downtown Hat Yai for details and tickets. There are also local buses, taxis and a daily train that make the hour-long trip to Padang Besar, the nearest town on the Malaysian side of the border.

Getting around

There are plenty of motorcycle taxis and songthaews within Hat Yai and Songkhla. The latter is approximately 25km (16 miles) east of Hat Yai, and can easily be reached by either bus, minivan or taxi.