REFERENCES

Chapter One: History’s Beauty Industry Influences

For detailed historical information on the development of cosmetics and personal-care products, you might find the following sources to be illuminating:
 
Ackerman, Diane. A Natural History of the Senses. Vintage Books, 1991.
Beyer, Lyssa. “The History of ... Deodorant.” The Spectator, www.spectatornews.com, February 8, 2007.
“Cosmetics In The Ancient World.” Cosmeticsinfo.org.
Genders, Roy. A History of Scent. London: Hamish Hamilton, Ltd., 1972.
Laden, Karl. Antiperspirants and Deodorants. Marcel Dekker, 1988.
Riordan, Teresa. Inventing Beauty: A History of the Innovations that Have Made Us Beautiful. Broadway Books, 2004.
Robinson, Julian. The Quest for Human Beauty: An Illustrated History. W. W. Norton, 1998.

Chapter Two: The Chemical Threat to Your Health

1 Cancer Prevention Coalition. Citizen Petition Seeking Labeling of Nitrite-Preserved Hot Dogs for Childhood Cancer Risk. April 25, 1995.
2 Steinman, D. and Epstein, S. S. The Safe Shopper’s Bible. Macmillan, 1995.
3 Davis, D. and Hoel, D. (eds.) Trends in Cancer Mortality in Industrial Countries. New York Academy of Sciences 609: November 21, 1990.
4 National Cancer Institute. U.S. National Institutes of Health. SEER (Surveillance, Epidemiology, and End Results) Cancer Statistics Review, 1975-2005.
5 Natural Resources Defense Council. “Intolerable Risk: Pesticides in our Children’s Food.” February 27, 1989.
6 Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep Report, Carcinogens in Personal Care Products, June 2004.
7 Cancer Prevention Coalition. Citizen Petition Seeking Cancer Warning on Cosmetics Containing DEA. October 22, 1996.
8 National Toxicology Program. “Toxicological and Carcinogenicity Studies on Diethanolamine.” TR 478, December 1997.

Chapter Three: Losing the Winnable Cancer War

1 Kolata, Gina. “Environment and Cancer: The Links Are Elusive.” The New York Times, December 13, 2005.
2 Montague, Peter. “Why We Cannot Prevent Cancer.” Rachel’s Democracy & Health News. Issue #829, October 27, 2005.
3 Davis, D. and Hoel, D. (eds.) Trends in Cancer Mortality in Industrial Countries. New York Academy of Sciences, November 21, 1990.
4 Epstein, S. S., et al. “The Crisis in U.S. and International Cancer Policy.” International Journal of Health Services 32(4):669-707, 2002. Endorsed by more than thirty leading scientists.
5 Lichtenstein, P., et al. “Environmental and Heritable Factors in the Causation of Cancer: Analysis of Cohorts of Twins from Sweden, Denmark and Finland.” New England Journal of Medicine 343(2):78- 85, 2000.
6 Epstein, S. S. “American Cancer Society: The World’s Wealthiest ‘Non-Profit’ Institution.” International Journal of Health Services 29:565-78, 1999.
7 Hall, H. and Williams, G. “Professor vs. Cancer Society.” The Chronicle of Philanthropy. January 28, 1992, pg. 6.
8 Epstein, S. S. The Stop Cancer Before It Starts Campaign. How to Win the Losing War Against Cancer. February 2003. Endorsed by approximately 140 leading cancer experts and representatives of national consumer groups.
9 Doll, R. and Peto, R. The Causes of Cancer: Quantitative Estimates of Avoidable Risks of Cancer in the United States Today. Oxford University Press, 1981.
10 Joint Conference of the International Union of Cancer and the International Agency for Research on Cancer. Remarks by Richard Doll. June 2002.
11 Davis, D. L., et al. “International Trends in Cancer Mortality in France, West Germany, Italy, Japan, England and Wales, and the USA.” Lancet 336(8713):474-81, 1990.

Chapter Four: You Lost Your “Right to Know”

1 Epstein, S. S. and Grundy, R. D. “The Regulation of the Safety of Cosmetics.” Chapter Two, Volume Two. The Legislation of Product Safety: Consumer Health and Product Hazards. Cambridge: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Press, 1974.
2 Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry. Toxicological Profile for 1,4-Dioxane. July 2006.
3 Parisian, S. FDA: Inside and Out. Front Royal, VA: Fast Horse Press, 2001.
4 Environmental Working Group. www.cosmeticdatabase.com/research/fdapetition.php. 2004.

Chapter Five: Products Targeting Infants and Children

1 Greenpeace International and WWF-UK. “A Present for Life: Hazardous Chemicals in Umbilical Cord Blood.” September 2005.
2 Gray, T. J. and Butterworth, K. R. “Testicular Atrophy Produced by Phthalate Esters.” Archives of Toxicology Supplement 4:452- 5, 1980.
3 A Present for Life, pg. 35.
4 Environmental Working Group. “Body Burden—The Pollution in Newborns.” www.ewg.org. July 2005.
5 Diskin, Colleen. “Slew of Pollutants Found in Babies.” North Jersey Record, July 13, 2005.
6 Vandenberg, L. N., et al. “The Human Exposure to bisphenol a (BPA).” Reproductive Toxicology 24(2):139-77, 2007.
7 Richter, C. A., et al. “In Vivo Effects of Bisphenol A in Laboratory Rodent Studies.” Reproductive Toxicology 24(2):199-224, 2007.
8 Darbre, P. D., et al. “Estrogenic Activity of Benzylparaben.” Journal of Applied Toxicology 23:43-51, 2003.
9 Routledge, E. J., et al. “Some Alkyl Hydroxy Benzoate Preservatives (Parabens) Are Estrogenic.” Toxicology & Applied Pharmacology 153:12-19, 1998.
10 Oishi, S. “Effects of Propyl Paraben on the Male Reproductive System.” Food and Chemical Toxicology 40(12):1807-13, 2002.
11 Darbre, P. D., et al. “Concentrations of Parabens in Human Breast Tumors.” Journal of Applied Toxicology 24:5-13, 2004.
12 , Office of Cosmetics and Colors, FDA. www.cfsan.fda. gov/~dms/cos-para.html. March 20, 2006.
13 Pitman, S. “Ageing Claims Put Parabens Back Under the Spotlight.” www.cosmeticsdesign.com. August 29, 2005.
14 Veldhoen, N., et al. “The Bacterial Agent Triclosan Modulates Thyroid Hormone-Associated Gene Expression and Disrupts Postembryonic Anuran Development.” Aquatic Toxicology 80:217-27, 2006.
15 Levy, S. B. “Anti-Bacterial Household Products: Cause for Concern.” Emerging Infectious Diseases 7:512-515, 2001.
16 Foran, C. M., et al. “Developmental Evaluation of a Potential Non-Steroidal Estrogen: Triclosan.” Marine Environmental Research 50:153-6, 2000.
17 Lynch, B. S., et al. “Toxicology Review and Risk Assessment of Resorcinol: Thyroid Effects.” Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 36:198-220, 2002.
18 Jobling, S., et al. “Inhibition of Testicular Growth in Rainbow Trout Exposed to Alkylphenolic Chemicals.” Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry 15:194-202, 1996.
19 White, R. S., et al. “Environmentally Persistent Alkylphenolic Compounds Are Estrogenic.” Endocrinology 135:175-82, 1994.
20 Acevedo, R., et al. “The Contribution of Hepatic Steroid Metabolism to Serum Estradiol and Estriol Concentrations in Nonylphenol Treated MMTVneu Mice and Its Potential Effects on Breast Cancer Incidence and Latency.” Journal of Applied Toxicology 25:339- 53, 2005.
21 Mylchreest, E., et al. “Disruption of Androgen-Regulated Male Reproductive Development by di(n-butyl) Phthalate During Late Gestation in Rats Is Different from Flutamide.” Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology 156:81-95, 1999.
22 Blount, B. C., et al. “Levels of Seven Urinary Phthalate Metabolites as a Human Reference Population.” Environmental Health Perspectives 108(10):979-82, October 2000.
23 Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Second National Report on Human Exposure to Environmental Chemicals, 2003.
24 Duty, S. M., et al. “The Relationship Between Environmental Exposures to Phthalates and DNA Damage in Human Sperm Using the Natural Comet Assay.” Environmental Health Perspectives 111(9):1164-9, July 2003.
25 Swan, S., et al. “Decrease in Anogenital Distance Among Male Infants with Prenatal Phthalate Exposure.” Environmental Health Perspectives 113(8):1056-61, 2005.
26 Cone, Marla. “Study Finds Genital Abnormalities in Boys.” Los Angeles Times, May 27, 2005.
27 Houlihan, J., et al. “Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA.” Environmental Working Group, July 8, 2002.
28 Eriksson, E., et al. “Household Chemicals and Personal Care Products as Sources for Xenobiotic Organic Compounds in Grey Wastewater.” Water SA 29(2):135-46, 2003.
29 Duty, S. M., et al. “Personal Care Product Use Predicts Urinary Concentrations of Some Phthalate Monoesters.” Environmental Health Perspectives 113:1530-5, 2005.
30 Hauser, R., et al. “Altered Semen Quality in Relation to Concentrations of Phthalate Monoester and Oxidative Metabolites.” Epidemiology 17:682-91, 2006.
31 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Compendium, 2007.
32 Markey, C. M., et al. “Long Term Effects of Fetal Exposure to Low Doses of the Xenoestrogen Bisphenol-A in the Female Mouse Genital Tract.” Biology of Reproduction 72:1344-51, 2005.
33 Von Saal, F. S. and Hughes, C. “An Extensive New Literature Concerning Low-Dose Effects of Bisphenol-A Shows the Need for a New Risk Assessment.” Environmental Health Perspectives 113:926-33, 2005.
34 Ho S-M., et al. “Developmental Exposure to Estradiol and Bisphenol A Increases Susceptibility to Prostate Carcinogenesis and Epigenetically Regulates Phosphodiesterase Type 4 Variant 4.” Cancer Research 66:5624-32, 2006.
35 Durando, M., et al. “Prenatal Bisphenol A Exposure Induces Preneoplastic Lesions in the Mammary Gland in Wistar Rats.” Environmental Health Perspectives 115(1):80-6, 2007.
36 Von Saal, F. S., and Welshons, W. V. “Large Effects from Small Exposures. II. The Importance of Positive Controls in Low-Dose Research on Bisphenol A.” Environmental Research. 100:50-76, 2006.
37 Henley, D. V., et al. “Prepubertal Gynecomastia Linked to Lavender and Tea Tree Oils.” New England Journal of Medicine 356(5):479-85, 2007.
38 Darbre, P. D. “Aluminum, Antiperspirants and Breast Cancer.” Journal of Inorganic Biochemistry 99(9):1912-9, September 2005.
39 Martin, M. B. “Estrogen-Like Activity of Metals in Mcf-7 Breast Cancer Cells.” Endocrinology 144(6):2425-36, 2003.
40 Graves, A. B., et al. “The Association Between Aluminum-Containing Products and Alzheimer’s Disease.” Journal of Clinical Epidemiology 43:35-44, 1990.
41 Food and Drug Administration. Antiperspirant Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use; Final Monograph. Federal Register 68, No. 110, June 9, 2003/Rules and Regulations.

Chapter Six: Products Targeting Women

1 Environmental Health Network. “Phthalates Found in Perfume—Analysis of One Perfume—Calvin Klein’s Eternity.” http://users.lmi.net/wilworks/FDApetition/analysis.htm. 1998.
2 Cancer Prevention Coalition and Environmental Health Network. Press Release. “Cupid’s Arrow or Poison Dart.” February 7, 2000.
3 FDA correspondence to Cancer Prevention Coalition. www.preventcancer.com.
4 Environmental Working Group. “Investigation Finds More Than 400 Cosmetic Products on U.S. Shelves Unsafe When Used as Directed Based on Industry Ingredient Assessments.” Ewg.org. Sept. 25, 2007.
5 Steinman, D. and Epstein, S. S. The Safe Shopper’s Bible. Macmillan, 1995.
6 Nielsen, N. and Menne, T. “The Glostrup Allergy Study, Denmark.” Acta Dermato-Venereologica 72:456-60, 1992.
7 Marks, J. G., et al. “North American Contact Dermatitis Group.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 38:911-8, 1998.
8 Kennedy, Edward M. The Food Allergen Consumer Protection Act, S. 2499, 2002.
9 Bridges, B. “Fragrance: Emerging Health and Environmental Concerns.” Flavour and Fragrance Journal 17:361-71, 2002.
10 Harlow B. L., et al. “Perineal Exposure to Talc and Ovarian Cancer Risk.” Obstet Gynecol 80(1): 19-26, 1992.
11 Westerhof, W. and Kooyers, T. J. “Hydroquinone and Its Analogues in Dermatology—A Potential Health Risk.” The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 4(2):55-9, June 2005.
12 Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. “A Poison Kiss: The Problem of Lead in Lipstick.” www.safecosmetics.org. October 2007.
13 Malkan, Stacy. Not Just a Pretty Face. New Society Publishers, 2007, pg. 10.
14 Geehr, Edward C. “Is Your Lipstick Leaded?” www.lifescript. com. November 11, 2007.
15 National Environmental Trust. Toxic Chemicals Widespread in Consumer Products. www.net.org. July 2004.

Chapter Seven: Products Targeting Beauty and Nail Salons

1 Georgia State Board of Cosmetology. Cosmetology School Curriculum. www.rules.sos.state.ga.us/cgi-bin/page. cgi?g=Georgia_State_Board_of_Cosmetology.
2 “Common Dreams. The Beauty Industry’s Ugly Secret.” www.commondreams.org. September 20, 2006.
3 “Hairspray Linked to Birth Defect.” BBC News. November 21, 2008.
4 Kronoveter, K. J. Health Hazard Evaluation Determination Report No. HHE-76-82-361, Hair Zoo, Penfield, New York, National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), 1977.
5 The Danish Case on Injury Following the Use of Hair Dyes. http://www.forbrugerradet.dk. December 4, 2005.
6 National Cancer Institute. SEER Cancer Statistics Review, 1975-2005.
7 IARC Monograph. Occupational Exposures of Hairdressers and Barbers and Personal Use of Hair Colourants; Some Hair Dyes, Cosmetic Colourants, Industrial Dyestuffs and Aromatic Amines. 57:43-118, 1993.
8 European Commission, Health and Consumer Protection. Scientific Committee on Consumer Products. Memorandum on Hair Dye Substances and Their Skin Sensitizing Properties. December 19, 2006.
9 Mikami, K. “New York Hairstylist Takes Technique Straight to the Bank.” The Japan Times, April 14, 2007.
10 Kolar, G. G. and Miller, A. “Hair Straighteners,” in Cosmetics Science and Technology, Volume 2, 2nd ed., ed. M. S. Balsam and E. Sagarin. New York: Wiley Interscience, 1972, p. 251.
11 Gorman, A., et al. “Glossed Over: Health Hazards Associated with Toxic Exposures in Nail Salons.” A Report by Women’s Voices for the Earth. www.womenandenvironment.org. February 2007.
12 Savitz, J., et al. “Spontaneous Abortions Among Cosmetologists.” Epidemiology. 5(2):147-55, 1994.
13 Sole-Smith, Virginia. “The High Price of Beauty.” The Nation, October 8, 2007.
14 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Compendium, 2007.
15 Blount, B. C., et al. “Levels of Seven Urinary Phthalate Metabolites in a Human Reference Population.” Environmental Health Perspectives 108(10):979-82, October 2000.
16 Personal communication with George Schaeffer, President & CEO, OPI Products, Inc.
17 Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. “Nail Polishes to Become a Little Safer.” Press Release. www.safecosmetics.org. August 30, 2006.
18 Women’s Voice for the Earth. “Leading Nail Polish Manufacturer Removes Toxic Ingredients.” www.womenandenvironment. org, March 29, 2007.
19 Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep Report. Ewg.org/reports/skindeep/. June 2004.
20 Steinman, D. and Epstein, S. S. The Safe Shopper’s Bible. Macmillan, 1995.

Chapter Eight: Products Targeting Sun Worshippers

1 Taylor, Steve. Two Fingers To Sunscreen? An Essential Guide for the Effective Use of Sunscreens. www.sunblaster.co.nz/downloads/Full_txt_c.pdf. 2002.
2 Garland, C. F., et al. “Could Sunscreens Increase Melanoma Risk?” American Journal of Public Health 82(4):614-5, 1992.
3 National Cancer Institute. SEER Cancer Statistics Review, 1975-2005.
4 Environmental Working Group. Skin Deep Report. June 2004.
5 Hanson, K. M., et al. “Sunscreen Enhancement of UV-Induced Reactive Oxygen Species in the Skin.” Free Radical Biology and Medicine 41:1205-12, 2006.
6 Schlumpf, M., et al. “In Vitro and in Vivo Estrogenicity of UV Screens.” Environmental Health Perspectives 109(3):239-44, 2001.
7 Kadry, A. M., et al. “Pharmacokinetics of Benzophenone-3 After Oral Exposure in Male Rats.” Journal of Applied Toxicology 15:97-102, 1995.
8 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Compendium, 2007.
9 Bowles, Jennifer. “UCR Scientist Finds Key to Sex Alterations in Fish.” San Bernardino Press-Enterprise, November 15, 2005.
10 Hany, J. and Nagel, R. “Nachweis von UV-Filtersubtanzen in Muttermilch. (Detection of Sunscreen Agents in Human Breast Milk).” Deutche Lebensmittel-Rundschau 91(11):341-5, 1995.
11 Calafat, A. M., et al. “Concentrations of the Sunscreen Agent, Benzophenone-3, in Residents of the U.S.: National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey 2003-2004.” Environmental Health Perspectives (available online March 21, 2008).
12 Environmental Working Group. EWG Statement on Latest FDA Proposed Sunscreen Safety Standards. www.ewg.org. August 23, 2007. (Cites skin penetration studies: Cross 2007; Garner 2006; Gottbrath 2003; Mavon 2007.)
13 International Center for Technology Assessment (CTA). “Consumer, Health, and Environmental Groups Launch First-Ever Legal Challenge on Risks of Nanotechnology.” May 16, 2006.
14 Howard, C. V. “Nanoparticles and Toxicity.” Press Releases April 12, 2003, and May 11, 2003.
15 Inoue, K. “Effects of Airway Exposure to Nanoparticles on Lung Inflammation by Bacterial Endotoxin in Mice.” Environmental Health Perspectives 114(9):1325-30, 2006.
16 “Nanoparticles in Sun Creams Can Stress Brain Cells.” Nature.com. June 16, 2006.
17 Friends of the Earth. “Nanomaterials, Sunscreens and Cosmetics: Small Ingredients, Big Risks.” May 16, 2006.
18 The Royal Society & The Royal Academy of Engineering. “Nanoscience and Nanotechnologies: Opportunities and Uncertainties.” www.nanotec.org.uk. July 2004.
19 Lu, Y-P, et al. “Topical Applications of Caffeine or (-)-Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG) Inhibit Carcinogenesis and Selectively Increase Apoptosis in UVB-Induced Skin Tumors in Mice.” Proceedings, National Academy of Sciences 99(19):12455-60, 2002.
20 Laszlo, J. A., Compton, D. L. and Willis, R. A. “Sunscreen Active Derived from Soybean Oil and Ferulic Acid: Synthesis and Applications.” Proceedings of the 6th International Symposium on the Role of Soy in Preventing and Treating Chronic Disease, Chicago, Illinois. 2005. Page 51.
21 Juliano, Claudia, et al. “Antioxidant Activity of Gamma-oryzanol: Mechanism of Action and its Effect on Oxidative Stability of Pharmaceutical Oils.” International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 299(1- 2):146-54. 2005.

Chapter Nine: Products Targeting Youth Seekers

1 “The Future of Cosmeceuticals: An Interview with Albert Kligman.” Dermatologic Surgery 31(7, part 2):890-1, July 1005.
2 Thornfeldt, C. “Cosmeceuticals Containing Herbs: Fact, Fiction and Future.” Dermatologic Surgery 31:873-881, 2005.
3 Hilton, L. “An Update on Latest in Cosmeceuticals: Biologically Active Skincare.” Cosmetic Surgery Times November-December 2004.
4 Lupo, Mary. “Cosmeceutical Peptides.” Dermatologic Surgery 31:832-6, 2005.
5 Bailly, J. “Is This Any Way to Treat a Face?” O, The Oprah Magazine , March 2007.
6 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Compendium, 2007.
7 Food and Drug Administration. “Skin Peelers.” Human Health Services News. May 21, 1992.
8 Food and Drug Administration. “AHAs and UV Sensitivity. Results of New FDA Sponsored Studies.” Office of Cosmetics and Color Fact Sheet. March 2, 2000.
9 Food and Drug Administration. Guidance for Industry: Labeling for Topically Applied Cosmetic Products Containing AHAs as Ingredients. December 2, 2002.
10 Centurion, S. A., et al. “Cosmeceuticals.” www.emedicine. com. February 4, 2004.
11 “Skin Whitening Agents.” Medidermlab.com.
12 Seigel, J. “Fat Chance.” Op-Ed. The New York Times. August 15, 2005.
13 Draelos, Z. D. “Cosmeceutical Peptides: Generic vs. Brand.” Dermatology Times. February 1, 2005.
14 Pitman, S. “Janson Beckett Unveils Peptide-Based Anti-Wrinkle Product.” www.cosmeticsdesign.com. December 7, 2005.
15 Q-Med. Uppsala, Sweden. May 6, 2002.
16 11th Congress of the EADV, Prague, Czech Republic. October 4, 2002.
17 PR Leap. “Allure Magazine Awards L’Oreal Paris Skin Genesis as a Best Beauty Breakthrough for 2007.” September 26, 2007.
18 Consumer Reports. www.consumerreports.org.
19 Chiu, A. E., et al. “Double-Blinded Placebo-Controlled Trial of Green Tea Extracts in the Clinical and Histologic Appearance of Photoaging Skin.” Dermatologic Surgery 31(7, Part 2):855-60, 2005.
20 Bauza, E., et al. “Date Palm Kernel Extract Exhibits Anti-aging Properties and Significantly Reduces Skin Wrinkles.” International Journal of Tissue Reactions 24(4):131-6, 2002.
21 Stinchfield, Kate. “Skip the Botox.” Time, November 13, 2007.

Chapter Ten: Products Targeting Everyone

1 Natural Resources Defense Council. “Protect Your Family from the Hidden Hazards in Air Fresheners.” www.nrdc.org/health/home/airfresheners.asp. September 2007.
2 Blount, B. C., et al. “Levels of Seven Urinary Phthalate Metabolites as Human Reference Population.” Environmental Health Perspectives 108(10):979-82, October 2000.
3 Houlihan, J., et al. Environmental Working Group. Not Too Pretty Report, 2002.
4 DiGangi, J., et al. “Pretty Nasty: Phthalates in European Cosmetic Products.” Health Care Without Harm, Swedish Society for Nature Conservation, Women’s Environmental Network. November 2002.
5 Eui-Sun Yoo, et al. “Phthalates in Cosmetics in Korea.” Citizens’ Institute for Environmental Studies and Seoul Branch of the Korean Federation for Environmental Movement. April 2003.
6 Swan, S., et al. “Decrease in Anogenital Distance Among Male Infants with Prenatal Phthalate Exposure.” Environmental Health Perspectives 113(8):1056-61, August 2005.
7 Duty, S. M., et al. “Phthalate Exposure and Human Semen Parameters.” Epidemiology 14(3):269-77, May 2003.
8 Duty, S. M., et al. “The Relationship Between Environmental Exposures to Phthalates and DNA Damage in Human Sperm Using the Natural Comet Assay.” Environmental Health Perspectives 111(9):1164-9, July 2003.
9 National Toxicology Program. 11th Report. Pp. 118-22. 2004.
10 Cone, Marla. “Testing Finds Traces of Carcinogen in Bath Products.” Los Angeles Times, February 9, 2007.
11 National Toxicology Program 11th Report. Pp. 40-1. 2004.
12 Williams, A. C. and Barry, B. W. “Penetration Enhancers.” Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews 56:603-18, 2004.
13 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Compendium, 2007.
14 Nielsen, G. D., et al. “Effects of Industrial Detergents on the Barrier Function of Human Skin.” International Journal of Occupational and Environmental Health 6(2):138-42, April-June 2000.
15 Nielsen, J. B. “Effects of Four Detergents on the in-vitro Barrier Function of Human Skin.” International Journal of Occupational and Environmental Health 6(2):143-7, April-June 2000.
16 Darbre, P. D. “Metalloestrogens: An Emerging Class of Inorganic Xenoestrogens with Potential to Add to the Oestrogenic Burden of the Human Breast.” Journal of Applied Toxicology 26(3):191-7, 2006.
17 Smith, Michael. “Antiperspirants Linked to Breast Cancer.” MedPage Today, March 1, 2006.
18 Routledge, E. J., et al. “Some Alkyl Hydroxy Benzoate Preservatives (Parabens) Are Estrogenic.” Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology 153:12-19, 1998.
19 Jacob, S., et al. “Focus on T.R.U.E. Test Allergen #8: Parabens.” Skin & Aging 15(3):31-6, March 2007.
20 El Hussein, S., et al. “Assessment of Principal Parabens Used in Cosmetics After Their Passage Through Human Epidermis-Dermis Layers (ex-vivo study).” Experimental Dermatology 16(10):830-6, October 2007.
21 Nakazawa, H., et al. “Analysis of Chlorobenzenes, Para-hydroxybenzoic Acid Esters and Herbicide in Human Subjects.” A report of the Research Fund of Health and Welfare of Japan. Tokyo: Ministry of Health and Welfare, 1999.
22 American Environmental Safety Institute. “Judge Enters Institute’s Settlement Regarding Lead in Crest Toothpaste.” www.ems.org. August 17, 2005.
23 Associated Press. “FDA Says Avoid Toothpaste Made In China.” June 1, 2007.
24 Glaser, A. “The Ubiquitous Triclosan: A Common Anti-Bacterial Agent Exposed.” Pesticides and You 24(3):12-24, 2004.
25 Foran, C. M., et al. “Developmental Evaluation of a Potential Non-Steroidal Estrogen: Triclosan.” Marine Environmental Research 50:153-6, 2000.
26 National Toxicology Program 11th Report. Pp. 111-54. 2004.
27 Lasley, B., et al. “Triclocarban Enhances Testosterone Action: A New Type of Endocrine Disrupter?” Endocrinology (online), November 29, 2007.

Chapter Eleven: Reforming the Cosmetics and Personal-Care Products Industry

1 Von Woedtke, T., et al. “Aspects of the Antimicrobial Efficacy of Grapefruit Seed Extract and Its Relation to Preservative Substances Contained.” Pharmazie 54(6):452-6, June 1999.
2 Epstein, S. S. Testimony on Corporate Criminal Liability. Hearings Before the Subcommittee on Crime of the House Committee of the Judiciary (HR 4973). December 1979.
3 Seventh Amendment to the Cosmetics Directive of the European Union. October 31, 2001.
4 Epstein, S. S. What’s In Your Milk? An Exposé of Industry and Government Cover-Up on the Dangers of the Genetically Engineered (rBGH) Milk You’re Drinking. Trafford Publishing, 2006.
5 Reuters. “EU Bans 22 Hair Dye Substances to Ensure Safety.” July 20, 2006.
6 Epstein, S. S. “REACH: An Unprecedented European Initiative for Regulating Industrial Chemicals.” International Journal of Health Services 35(1):1-38, 2005.

Chapter Twelve: Two Healthy Trends in Your Future

1 Dweck, A. C. “Natural Ingredients for Coloring and Styling.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 24:287-302, 2002.
2 ECOCERT. Standards for Ecological and Organic Cosmetics. January 2003.
3 Poliakoff, M., et al. “Green Chemistry: Science and Politics of Change.” Science 297:807-10, 2002.
4 Villa, C., et al. “Eco-friendly Methodologies for the Synthesis of Some Aromatic Esters, Well Known Cosmetic Ingredients.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 27:11-16, 2005.
5 Wilson, M. P., et al. “Green Chemistry in California: A Framework for Leadership in Chemicals Policy and Innovation.” California Policy Research Center, University of California, Berkeley. March 14, 2006.
6 “Cosmetics Made from Food.” http://web-japan.org/trends/fashion. January 18, 2005.
7 “Global Organic Cosmetic Market Booms.” www.cosmeticsdesign. com. June 1, 2005.
8 Leading Cosmetic Players Make Gains in the Stagnant Market. www.cosmeticsdesign.com. August 25, 2005.
9 NPI Center. Natural Cosmetics Boom in EU, Though Debates Continue Over Which Brands are Actually Organic, Sept. 19, 2006.
10 Health. “Organic Deodorant: Does it Work?” May 2005.
11 Lloyd, T. “Blueprint for a Cosmetic Empire: NSBrands Enter a Hot Japanese Market.” www.japaninc.com. September 2004.
12 Laszlo, J., et al. “Sunscreen Active Derived from Soybean Oil and Ferulic Acid: Synthesis and Applications.” Proceedings of the 6th International Symposium on the Role of Soy in Preventing and Treating Chronic Disease, Chicago, Illinois, p. 51, November 2, 2005.
13 Laszlo, J, et al. “Pack-bed Reactor Synthesis of Feruloylated Monoacyl- and Diacyl Glycerols: Clean Production of a “Green” Sunscreen.” Green Chemistry 5:382-6, 2003.
14 Robinson, B. C. Deputy Administration Agricultural Marketing Service. USDA Memorandum. “Certification of Agricultural Products That Meet NOP Standards.” August 23, 2005.
15 Organic Consumers Association. “Carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane Found in Leading ‘Organic’ Brand Personal Care Products.” www.organicconsumers.org, March 14, 2008.

Appendix Three: Industry Trade Associations and What They Conceal from You

1 CTFA. Annual Report, 2007.
2 Parisian, S. FDA: Inside & Out. Front Royal, Virginia: Fast Horse Press. 2001.
3 CTFA Technical Guidelines: Safety Testing Guidelines. 1991.
4 CTFA Labeling Manual. A Guide to Labeling and Advertising Cosmetics and OTC Drugs, Second Edition. 1997.
5 CTFA. International Regulatory Resource Manual. 2001.
6 CTFA. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Compendium 2007.
7 Pitman, S. “CTFA Targets Misinformation to Counteract Lobby Groups.” www.cosmeticsdesign.com. July 20, 2007.
8 Directive (2003/15/EC) of the European Parliament and of the Council, Relating to Consumer Products, February 27, 2003.
9 The Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP), September 25, 2001.
10 Kondo, A. Manager, Regulatory Affairs. Estée Lauder Japan, 2005.
11 Environmental Health Network, Petition 99P-1340, to the Food and Drug Administration requesting the Commissioner to take administrative action and declare “Eternity Eau de Parfum by Calvin Klein Cosmetics Company Misbranded.” May 7, 1999.
12 Vey, M. (Scientific Director, International Fragrance Association). Letter to the Editor. Contact Dermatitis 48:56-8, 2003.
13 Epstein, S. S. E-mails, 8/26/03, 9/22/03, 9/30/03, and 10/1/03 to Dr. M. Vey, President of the IFRA.