Spring
ASPARAGUS
If spring had a mascot, I’m sure it would be asparagus. The happy sight of its tender, cheerful shoots sprouting from a just-thawed ground means that spring has officially arrived. I love asparagus’s energetic freshness, as well as its mildly sweet earthiness. And it’s surprisingly versatile. You can grill it—check out my Grilled Asparagus Three Ways—or shave it over a beautiful salad, as in my Raw Asparagus Salad with Pine Nuts, Parmesan and Lemon Herb Yogurt. You can try it fried in Asparagus Sesame Fries with Soy Ginger Aïoli, and it’s equally wonderful poached in my Shrimp and Grits with Butter Poached White Asparagus. If you want to preserve this springtime gem to enjoy later in the year, I’ve also got a Pickled Asparagus recipe for you. The options are limitless!
GRILLED ASPARAGUS THREE WAYS
Asparagus purists, rejoice! I’ve got the hands-down simplest, tastiest and most finger-food-friendly way to nibble on those tender little spears. Simply grill and serve with any one of these three flavourful toppings.
Serves 6
1½ pounds (675 g) asparagus, trimmed
2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Grill the Asparagus
1. Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat.
2. Toss asparagus with oil, season lightly with salt and pepper and grill until fork-tender and nicely charred. Serve asparagus with topping of your choice.
Gribiche
Makes about ½ cup (125 mL)
¼ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise
1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon (5 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) rinsed and chopped capers
1 hard-boiled egg, grated
1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, dill, chives, chervil
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. Stir together mayonnaise, lemon zest, lemon juice, capers, egg and herbs until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Cherry Tomato Basil Salad
Makes about 1½ cups (375 mL)
1½ cups (375 mL) tri-coloured cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tablespoon (15 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
3 large basil leaves, torn
Pinch of red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. Toss together tomatoes, oil, basil and red pepper flakes until well mixed. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow flavours to meld.
Bacon Aïoli
Makes about ¾ cup (175 mL)
½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise
1 tablespoon (15 mL) warm bacon fat
4 slices bacon, fried until crisp and finely chopped
1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon (5 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. Whisk together mayonnaise and bacon fat. Whisk in bacon, lemon zest, lemon juice, mustard and garlic until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
RAW ASPARAGUS SALAD with PINE NUTS, PARMESAN and LEMON HERB YOGURT
This is one of my favourite ways to enjoy asparagus when it’s at the peak of its season—raw and simply dressed in this fresh and easy salad.
Serves 4
Lemon Herb Yogurt
½ cup (125 mL) plain Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon (5 mL) thyme leaves
2 tablespoons (30 mL) flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped chives
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Raw Asparagus Salad
1 pound (450 g) asparagus, trimmed
4 cups (1 L) frisée leaves
2 tablespoons (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
To Serve
¼ cup (60 mL) shaved Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons (30 mL) toasted pine nuts
1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped chives
Make the Lemon Herb Yogurt
1. Place yogurt, lemon juice, lemon zest, thyme, parsley and chives in a blender and process until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Prepare the Raw Asparagus Salad
2. Using a vegetable peeler, slice asparagus spears lengthwise into thin ribbons. Place in a large bowl and add frisée, olive oil and lemon juice. Toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Spoon Lemon Herb Yogurt onto a chilled serving dish. Top with asparagus-frisée mixture, then with Parmesan, pine nuts and chives.
ASPARAGUS SOUP with MORELS and LEMON CRÈME FRAÎCHE
I consider this an understated, deeply elegant starter. The mellow sweetness of leeks softly cooked in butter, balanced with tender asparagus—so fresh and bright—finished with luxurious and earthy morel mushrooms. And the lemon crème fraîche? Just a little rich touch to bring it all together. If you can’t find morels, feel free to use whatever is available at your grocery store or local market, or leave them out altogether.
Serves 6
Asparagus Soup
2 tablespoons (30 mL) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil
1 large leek, white and light green parts only, halved and thinly sliced
½ cup (125 mL) sliced shallots
2 pounds (900 g) asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths
4 cups (1 L) vegetable or chicken stock
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
2 cups (500 mL) baby spinach
Morels
2 tablespoons (30 mL) unsalted butter
1 cup (250 mL) morel mushrooms, washed well, dried and trimmed
2 sprigs thyme
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped chives
Lemon Crème Fraîche
¼ cup (60 mL) crème fraîche or sour cream
½ teaspoon (2 mL) lemon juice
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) grated lemon zest
To Serve
1 cup (250 mL) cooked spring peas, if desired
Make the Asparagus Soup
1. Melt butter with olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and shallots and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus and stock and simmer until asparagus is tender, about 5 minutes. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in spinach and remove from heat.
2. Working in batches, purée soup in a blender. Strain back into the pan and keep warm.
Prepare the Morels
3. In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, combine butter, morels and thyme. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and remove sprigs of thyme. Stir in chives.
Make the Lemon Crème Fraîche
4. In a small bowl, stir together crème fraîche, lemon juice and lemon zest.
5. To serve, divide warm soup among bowls. Top with morels, a dollop of Lemon Crème Fraîche and peas, if using.
ASPARAGUS SESAME FRIES with SOY GINGER AÏOLI
Here’s a fun and unexpected way to enjoy asparagus, especially when you want to shake things up and yet another salad just won’t do. No one can resist a crispy little fry, much less one served with this zippy dipping sauce.
Serves 4
Soy Ginger Aïoli
½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise
2 teaspoons (10 mL) soy sauce
1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated peeled fresh ginger
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced cilantro
Asparagus Sesame Fries
2 large egg whites, lightly beaten
¼ cup (60 mL) black sesame seeds
¼ cup (60 mL) white sesame seeds
1 pound (450 g) asparagus, trimmed
Vegetable oil, for frying
Kosher salt, if desired
Thinly sliced green onion, for garnish
Cilantro leaves, for garnish
Make the Soy Ginger Aïoli
1. Whisk together mayonnaise, soy sauce, ginger and cilantro until combined. Cover and refrigerate aïoli until ready to serve.
Make the Asparagus Sesame Fries
2. Place egg whites in a long, narrow dish. In another long, narrow dish, stir together black and white sesame seeds.
3. Working in batches, dip asparagus spears first in egg white, then in sesame seed mixture to coat. Set coated spears aside on a baking sheet.
4. In a large skillet heat 1 inch (2.5 cm) vegetable oil to 350°F (180°C). Working in batches, fry asparagus spears until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, then transfer to paper towel to drain. Season lightly with salt, if using.
5. Serve asparagus fries warm, garnished with green onion and cilantro leaves, and with Soy Ginger Aïoli alongside.
SHRIMP and GRITS with BUTTER POACHED WHITE ASPARAGUS
Shrimp and grits are a classic pair. Here’s my take on this iconic dish, using creamy white asparagus to highlight both the texture of the grits and the sweetness of the shrimp. If you have the time, it’s worth seeking out Anson Mills grits for this recipe—the quality and flavour of all their products are truly special.
Serves 4
Grits
2 cups (500 mL) whole milk
2 cups (500 mL) water
1 teaspoon (5 mL) kosher salt
1 cup (250 mL) stone-ground grits
½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (30 mL) thinly sliced garlic scapes or green onions
⅛ teaspoon (0.5 mL) cracked black pepper
Butter Poached Asparagus
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter
6 spears thick white asparagus, trimmed
Shrimp
1 pound (450 g) extra-large shrimp (size 16–20), peeled and deveined
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons (30 mL) sliced chives
To Serve
Lemon wedges
Chopped chives
Make the Grits
1. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, bring milk, water and salt to a boil, then gradually whisk in grits until blended. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until grits are tender, about 45 minutes, stirring frequently.
2. Stir in Parmesan, butter, garlic scapes and black pepper. Keep grits warm until ready to serve.
Poach the Asparagus
3. While grits are cooking, add butter to boiling salted water and cook asparagus for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Allow asparagus to rest in poaching liquid for 3 to 4 minutes, then thinly slice on the diagonal.
Prepare the Shrimp
4. Pat shrimp dry with paper towel and season lightly with salt and pepper.
5. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter. Working in batches if necessary, sauté shrimp until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Stir in asparagus and chives. Season well with salt and pepper.
6. To serve, spoon hot grits into a warmed serving bowl and top with shrimp and asparagus mixture. Garnish with lemon wedges and chives and serve immediately.
PICKLED ASPARAGUS
At harvest time, when there’s too much of a good thing, there’s a simple solution to avoid waste—pickle it! Here’s a great way to preserve all those wonderful bundles of asparagus when they appear en masse at the farmers’ market.
Makes two 24-ounce (750 mL) jars
2 pounds (900 g) thin to medium-thick asparagus
8 dill sprigs
2 cups (500 mL) white wine vinegar
4 cloves garlic, slivered
¼ cup (60 mL) salt
2 tablespoons (30 mL) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) black peppercorns
1 tablespoon (15 mL) mustard seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) whole allspice
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) coriander seeds
1. Cut bottoms off asparagus so they fit upright in two 24-ounce (750 mL) containers or jars, with the asparagus tips at least ½ inch (1 cm) below lid. Place asparagus and dill in the jars.
2. In a large saucepan, combine vinegar, garlic, salt, sugar, peppercorns, mustard seeds, red pepper flakes, allspice and coriander seeds. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring to dissolve salt and sugar. Remove from heat and let stand until brine is lukewarm.
3. Pour brine over asparagus. Cover and refrigerate overnight to allow flavours to meld. Keep refrigerated for up to 1 month.
MORELS
Do you find mushrooms as magical as I do? I mean, just look at the magnificent morel, with its lacy, honeycombed cap and distinctly wild nature. Can you imagine the first brave souls to come upon them in a forest and decide to eat them? I’m sure it didn’t take long to discover how delicious they are, their nutty, earthy flavour enhanced by a quick fry in a little butter and finished with a touch of cream. Served with a fresh pasta, as in my Pappardelle with Morels and Fava Beans in Cream Sauce, or simply with scrambled eggs, these are one of my favourite mushrooms. I’m so grateful to today’s dedicated foragers, whose hard work provides us with baskets of these beauties every spring.
MOREL MUSHROOM PANZANELLA SALAD
Chefs and mushroom enthusiasts prize the distinctive morel. They are so popular partly because of their very short season, and also because they’re incredibly delicious. Here’s my version of a springtime Italian bread salad to showcase the beautiful morel.
Serves 4
Sautéed Morels
4 tablespoons (60 mL) unsalted butter, divided
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
4 shallots, cut lengthwise into quarters
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
3 cups (750 mL) morel mushrooms, washed well, dried and trimmed
½ cup (125 mL) fiddleheads, blanched
Sourdough Croutons
3 tablespoons (45 mL) unsalted butter
2 cups (500 mL) torn sourdough bread
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Grainy Mustard Dressing
Makes 1¼ cups (300 mL)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons (30 mL) whole-grain mustard (I like Kozlik’s Triple Crunch Mustard)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) honey
¼ cup (60 mL) white wine vinegar
½ cup (125 mL) canola oil
¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
To Serve
2 cups (500 mL) watercress, washed and trimmed
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Sauté the Morels
2. Melt 2 tablespoons (30 mL) butter with olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallots and toss to coat with butter and oil. Cover and slowly cook shallots, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until softened.
3. Turn heat up to medium-high and begin to caramelize the shallots, stirring constantly, about 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Remove shallots from the pan and set aside.
4. Return sauté pan to medium-high heat and add remaining 2 tablespoons (30 mL) butter. Add morels and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until softened. Add caramelized shallots and blanched fiddleheads. Sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes, until everything is warm. Remove from heat and keep warm.
Make the Sourdough Croutons
5. Melt butter in a small pan over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until golden brown and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.
6. Put the torn bread in a bowl and pour brown butter over them, tossing to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper and toss again. Spread bread on the baking sheet and bake until croutons are toasted and golden, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Make the Grainy Mustard Dressing
7. While croutons are baking, whisk together Dijon mustard, whole-grain mustard, honey and vinegar until well combined. Slowly whisk in canola oil, then olive oil, until emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Assemble the Salad
8. Transfer warm morel mixture to a large bowl. Add Sourdough Croutons and watercress. Dress with ½ cup (125 mL) Grainy Mustard Dressing. Mix well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
PAPPARDELLE with MORELS and FAVA BEANS in CREAM SAUCE
If you’re a fan of morel mushrooms, you’ll want to try this creamy pasta dish. Foraged morels, pancetta, cream, Parmesan and perfect fava beans—a combination that is as decadent as it is delicious. This could quite possibly be one of the best recipes in this book!
Serves 6
1½ cups (375 mL) shelled fava beans (about 2 pounds/900 g pods)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
¼ cup (60 mL) finely diced pancetta (about 2 ounces/55 g)
2 shallots, finely diced
2 cups (500 mL) well-cleaned and thinly sliced morel mushrooms
1½ cups (375 mL) heavy (35%) cream
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1 pound (450 g) pappardelle
1 cup (250 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons (30 mL) finely chopped chives
1. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook fava beans for 1 minute. Using a large slotted spoon, remove beans to a colander set over a large bowl. Reserve the blanching water to cook the pasta.
2. Rinse fava beans under cold running water until cool. Using your fingers or a paring knife, carefully tear open the outer hull of each bean. Gently squeeze the fava beans into a small bowl.
3. In a large sauté pan, melt butter with olive oil over medium heat. Add pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add shallots and morels, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid released from the mushrooms has been reabsorbed, 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Reduce heat to medium and add fava beans, cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat and adjust seasoning as needed.
5. Return the blanching water to a boil. Add pappardelle and cook according to package directions until al dente. Drain pasta and add to sauce. Turn the heat to medium-high, add Parmesan and chives, and gently toss noodles with the sauce until heated through. Serve immediately.
NEW POTATOES
When I was growing up, I especially looked forward to Sunday suppers in the spring. Whether we were having a roast leg of lamb or a maple-glazed ham, there would always be boiled new potatoes slathered in butter and herbs. To me there is nothing better than Salt-Baked New Potatoes with Arugula Butter. I could eat them every day. New potatoes have a wonderful sweetness and a fluffy texture that I think are perfect with absolutely everything, especially bacon, eggs, cheese and herbs. They’re a great choice for hashes, like my Kielbasa Potato Hash with Sunny-Side-Up Eggs, and salads, especially the Warm Potato Salad with Bacon and Triple Crunch Mustard Vinaigrette, when you want to add a little extra colour and texture in the mix.
SALT-BAKED NEW POTATOES with ARUGULA BUTTER
The reason new potatoes are so tasty is their delicate, paper-thin skin, which makes the potato taste sweeter, unlike the earthiness of a thicker-skinned potato. To complement the sweetness, I like to serve these with arugula butter, which has wonderful peppery notes. Salt baking is a fantastic way to prepare these potatoes because it helps keep their flesh nice and fluffy.
Serves 4
1 cup (250 mL) kosher salt
1½ pounds (675 g) small new potatoes, scrubbed and patted dry
½ cup (125 mL) coarsely chopped packed arugula
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. Sprinkle salt in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet and set potatoes on top. Bake until fork-tender, about 45 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle or a small food processor, mash or process arugula with butter until smooth.
4. Brush off any excess salt sticking to the potatoes. Toss potatoes in arugula butter while still warm. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
KIELBASA POTATO HASH with SUNNY-SIDE-UP EGGS
A hash is a classic and comforting dish consisting of diced or chopped meat, potatoes and spices all mixed together and fried. On Sunday mornings at home, I like to make this breakfast hash using kielbasa sausage and topped with a runny sunny-side-up egg. It’s a delicious way to start the day!
Serves 4
1 pound (450 g) mini new potatoes
2 teaspoons (10 mL) canola oil
¼ pound (115 g) kielbasa, cut into ¼-inch (5 mm) rounds
2 tablespoons (30 mL) unsalted butter, divided
4 spring onions, halved lengthwise
4 large eggs
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. In a saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, let cool for 5 minutes, then cut in half.
2. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). In a medium skillet over medium heat, add oil and kielbasa and cook until sausage is golden brown, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer kielbasa to a large ovenproof plate and keep warm in the oven.
3. Melt 1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter in the skillet over medium heat. Arrange reserved potatoes in a single layer cut side down, in batches if necessary, and cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Transfer to plate with kielbasa and keep warm.
4. In the skillet, arrange spring onions cut side down and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Transfer to plate with kielbasa-potato mixture and keep warm.
5. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter in skillet. Break in eggs, season with salt and pepper, and cook just until white has set, about 3 minutes for sunny-side-up.
6. To serve, divide kielbasa-potato mixture and spring onions among warmed plates. Top with fried eggs and serve immediately.
WARM POTATO SALAD with BACON and TRIPLE CRUNCH MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
This is potato salad 2.0, and it’s a wonderful one to serve once the weather turns warm in the spring. The cooked potatoes are tossed with a vinaigrette, soaking up all the goodness and flavours of the mustard, vinegar and bacon.
Serves 6
2 pounds (900 g) tri-coloured mini potatoes
6 slices bacon
¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil
2 tablespoons (30 mL) apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) whole-grain mustard (I like Kozlik’s Triple Crunch Mustard)
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
¼ cup (60 mL) mixed chopped herbs, such as dill, chervil and chives, for garnish
1. In a saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a bowl.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium heat, fry bacon until crisp, about 15 minutes. Transfer to paper towel to drain.
3. Whisk together oil, vinegar and mustard until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Break crispy bacon crosswise into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces and add to potatoes. Add vinaigrette and toss until well coated. Spoon potato salad onto a serving plate and garnish with chopped herbs.
PEAS AND FAVA BEANS
Peas and fava beans are two ingredients that benefit from a little elbow grease. In spring, you’ll often see a group of us in the restaurant kitchen, huddled around a bushel of spring peas or fava beans, picking, splitting and sorting them. The reward for all that work is the sweet, bright green pop of a freshly picked pea or fava bean. In my mind, the best way to celebrate their delicate flavour is to pair them simply with other crisp and fresh-tasting elements. Ricotta, lemon and mint help make fava beans the star in my Ricotta and Fava Bean Crostini, while fresh sweet peas get a buttery, herby boost in my Little Gem and Sweet Pea Sauté.
LITTLE GEM and SWEET PEA SAUTÉ
We don’t often think about cooking lettuce, which is a shame, since the gentle heat works wonders to enhance the naturally delicate flavours of these beautiful spring ingredients. I highly recommend you give it a try! This is a perfect side dish to the Sockeye Salmon Poached in a Spring Vegetable Nage.
Serves 4
8 slices bacon
4 Little Gem lettuces, halved lengthwise
½ cup (125 mL) chicken stock or water
1 cup (250 mL) sweet peas
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter
2 teaspoons (10 mL) finely chopped tarragon
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
1. In a skillet over medium heat, fry bacon until crispy, then transfer to paper towel to drain. Remove all but 2 tablespoons (30 mL) bacon fat from skillet. Add lettuces cut side down and cook until golden, about 5 minutes, turning only once. Place lettuces cut side up on a serving platter.
2. Add stock, peas and butter to the skillet. Cook until peas are tender, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in tarragon and season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. Spoon buttered peas over the lettuce and garnish with bacon slices.
RICOTTA and FAVA BEAN CROSTINI
Yes, fava beans do need a little attention—with a first cook in salted water, followed by a second going over to remove their tough outer jackets—but a little patience, and ideally a pair of helping hands, pays off, and the results are so worth it. One or two crostini would make an easy, fresh lunch alongside a bowl of soup, while a platter full would be a wonderful casual dinner starter for a larger group, glasses of crisp white wine in hand.
Makes 8 crostini
Crostini
8 slices crusty baguette (cut ¾ inch/2 cm on the diagonal)
2 cloves garlic, cut in half
2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil
Fava Topping
1½ cups (375 mL) shelled fava beans (from about 2 pounds/900 g pods)
3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil, divided
¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped green onions
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
½ teaspoon (2 mL) grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons (30 mL) coarsely chopped mint
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Ricotta Topping
1 cup (250 mL) ricotta cheese
¼ cup (60 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Toast the Crostini
1. Set oven to broil or preheat a grill to medium-high heat.
2. Rub slices of baguette with garlic cloves and brush lightly with olive oil on both sides. Lightly toast under a hot broiler or on a hot grill. Set aside.
Make the Fava Topping
3. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook fava beans until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and let cool, then carefully peel off the tough outer skin from each bean.
4. Heat 1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add green onions and sauté for 1 minute, until wilted. Stir in fava beans and cook for 2 minutes or until warmed through.
5. Transfer the fava mixture to a medium bowl. Add remaining 2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest and mint, then toss until combined. Mash slightly with the back of a fork. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Make the Ricotta Topping
6. Stir ricotta and Parmesan together in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Arrange toasts on a serving platter. Spread each slice with ricotta, then spoon fava mixture on top. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and serve immediately.
SOCKEYE SALMON POACHED in a SPRING VEGETABLE NAGE
To my mind, this is the ideal springtime weekend lunch. You’ve come home from the market to prepare a little edible celebration, inviting a few friends over to join in. This recipe is elegant enough for company and easily serves a small group, yet it’s simple to prepare and satisfyingly light enough that you can go about the rest of your day with ease. Serve with Little Gem and Sweet Pea Sauté, set out a crunchy baguette with some sweet butter on the table, and you’re all set. If you’ve never tried sea beans (also known as sea asparagus), I highly recommend you do so here. This unique vegetable is salty like the sea and a wonderful addition to the dish.
Serves 4
1 side sockeye salmon (about 3 pounds/1.35 kg), skin and pin bones removed
6 cups (1.5 L) water
2 cups (500 mL) dry white wine
4 spring onions, sliced in half
1 lemon, thinly sliced
4 bay leaves
4 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs dill
1 tablespoon (15 mL) tarragon leaves
½ cup (125 mL) chopped asparagus
½ cup (125 mL) chopped green beans
¼ cup (60 mL) chopped sea beans
¼ cup (60 mL) sweet peas
1 teaspoon (5 mL) kosher salt
1. Place salmon in a large, deep skillet and add water, white wine, onions, lemon, bay leaves, thyme, dill, tarragon, asparagus, green beans, sea beans, sweet peas and salt. Salmon should be submerged in poaching liquid. Add more water if necessary.
2. Set skillet over medium-low heat and bring to a gentle simmer. Poach, uncovered, until internal temperature reaches 130°F (55°C) and flesh flakes easily with a fork, about 20 minutes.
3. Serve salmon in bowls, with vegetable nage and poached vegetables spooned over top.
RADISHES
Radishes freshly picked from the garden hold a special spot in my heart. They are just about the quickest and easiest vegetables to grow in the spring, and I always feel unreasonably accomplished when they arrive! I’ll keep a bright pink and white handful standing in icy cold water on the kitchen counter, tender leaves and all. The thing is to have a stick of sweet butter nearby, with a small bowl of crunchy Maldon sea salt; some bread, of course, would be good here too. The refreshing zing of a crunchy, cold peppery radish, a smear of good butter, and a pinch of salt is the perfect snack. Not only wonderful raw, they’re delicious served warm in my Honey-Roasted Radishes with Dill and Wild Onion Flowers.
HONEY-ROASTED RADISHES with DILL and WILD ONION FLOWERS
Radishes are generally eaten raw, but when rethinking how to prepare this spring staple, I decided to break from tradition and roast them in honey. What happens to radishes when they’re cooked? Their characteristic peppery bite mellows, and they get sweeter and juicier. These are perfectly delicious on their own, or try mixing them with other roasted vegetables such as carrots, fennel or potatoes.
Serves 4
3 tablespoons (45 mL) honey
1 tablespoon (15 mL) unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon (15 mL) apple cider vinegar
½ teaspoon (2 mL) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (2 mL) cracked black pepper
2 cups (500 mL) red garden radishes, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped dill
8 onion flowers, for garnish, if desired
1. Position a rack in the centre of the oven and set a 12-inch (30 cm) cast-iron pan on the rack. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
2. In a medium bowl, combine the honey, butter, cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Add the radishes and toss until coated. Transfer to the hot pan and spread in a single layer. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the radishes are crisp-tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Remove from the oven. Top with chopped dill and garnish with the onion flowers, if using.
RADISH SANDWICHES with RAMP BUTTER
This is a classic French way of serving radishes, simple and yet so good. The watery, crisp bite of the radishes contrasted with the creamy richness of the ramp butter and the crackly dry crunch of the salt is a match made in heaven.
Serves 6 to 8
Ramp Butter
Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)
½ pound (225 g) ramps, bulbs removed (about 20 ramps)
1 pound (450 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 teaspoons (10 mL) honey
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Radish Sandwiches
1 baguette, cut in half horizontally
2 cloves garlic, cut in half
2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil
12 radishes, very thinly sliced
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Basil seedlings or leaves, for garnish
Maldon sea salt and cracked black pepper
Make the Ramp Butter
1. Blanch ramps in boiling salted water for 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain and squeeze out excess water. Spread ramps on paper towel and pat dry.
2. Coarsely chop ramps and place in a food processor along with the butter, honey and lemon zest and juice. Process until butter is smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.
Assemble the Radish Sandwiches
3. Set oven to broil or preheat a grill to medium-high heat.
4. Rub cut sides of baguette with garlic cloves and brush lightly with olive oil. Lightly toast under a hot broiler or on a hot grill.
5. Toss radishes with salt and pepper to taste in a medium bowl. Spread Ramp Butter on each half of baguette. Top bottom half of baguette with radish slices and basil; season with sea salt and pepper. Top with other half of baguette, cut on the diagonal into small sandwiches and serve.
RHUBARB
We had two huge rhubarb plants in our backyard when I was growing up. Every spring we’d watch as their fans grew up and out, and we’d dip the early pink stalks in sugar and crunch on them like the best sour candy. Nowadays, for the restaurant, we make a gorgeous rhubarb shrub for one of our signature drinks, Ruby’s Ginny Rhubarb Fizz. We also channel that sweet-tart flavour into killer jams, including my Gingered Rhubarb Jam, or a vinaigrette, which I show you how to make in my Chicken Leg Confit with Frisée and Spring Onion Salad with Rhubarb Vinaigrette. If you catch me in the kitchen, though, don’t be surprised if you see me snacking on some extra rhubarb bits with a bowl of sugar nearby.
GINGERED RHUBARB JAM
This gingered rhubarb jam is so versatile. I love serving it with cheese, but it’s also great on top of a big bowl of ice cream or a nice piece of grilled fish. The ginger helps balance the natural tartness of the rhubarb in this well-rounded and delicious preserve.
Makes 3 cups (750 mL)
4 cups (1 L) rhubarb cut into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 mL) grated peeled fresh ginger
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest
1½ teaspoons (7 mL) pure vanilla extract
1. In a large, heavy skillet, combine rhubarb, sugar, ginger, lemon juice, lemon zest and vanilla. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook, stirring often, for about 8 minutes or until the juices thicken slightly and the rhubarb is falling apart.
2. Serve warm, or let cool and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
RUBY’S GINNY RHUBARB FIZZ
When it’s rhubarb season, our talented chefs at Ruby Watchco switch into high gear. Pies, tarts, cakes, relishes, chutneys, compotes, sauces, vinaigrettes, sorbets and, yes, shrubs! A shrub is a fruit syrup, a way of preserving fruits that are in season with vinegar and other flavourings. Making shrubs at home is an excellent way of enjoying the bountiful harvest of any fruit. In addition to drinks, you can use shrubs in salad dressings and jams or as a glaze on meats. One of the most popular cocktails on our menu is this rhubarb fizz. Now you can make it at home! Be sure to make lots of this lovely pink rhubarb syrup, so you can sip this drink throughout the spring.
Serves 1
Rhubarb Shrub
Makes about 1 cup (250 mL), enough for 8 cocktails
4 cups (1 L) rhubarb chopped into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces
2 strips lemon zest
2-inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
2½ cups (625 mL) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 mL) white vinegar
Ruby’s Ginny Rhubarb Fizz
1 ounce (30 mL) Rhubarb Shrub
2 ounces (60 mL) gin
Soda water
Lemon wedge
Make the Rhubarb Shrub
1. Combine rhubarb, lemon zest, ginger, sugar and vinegar in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer very gently for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is soft.
2. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a large bowl. Pour rhubarb through the sieve and leave to drain, without pressing on the fruit. Carefully pour syrup into a clean bottle, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 month.
Prepare the Cocktail
3. In a rocks glass, stir together Rhubarb Shrub and gin. Add ice, top with soda water and squeeze in a lemon wedge. Stir again and enjoy!
CHICKEN LEG CONFIT with FRISÉE and SPRING ONION SALAD with RHUBARB VINAIGRETTE
This fun play on classic duck confit instead uses chicken and skips the salt curing. The chicken is poached low and slow in olive oil flavoured with spring onions, rhubarb, lemon and thyme—a wonderfully fresh spring combination. The result is an incredibly tender and flavourful dish.
Serves 4
Rhubarb Vinaigrette
Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)
1 cup (250 mL) olive oil
½ cup (125 mL) diced rhubarb
2 cloves garlic, minced
Grated zest of 1 orange
½ cup (125 mL) freshly squeezed orange juice
½ cup (125 mL) rice vinegar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) honey
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Chicken Leg Confit
½ cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons (45 mL) honey
2 to 4 spring onions, cut in half crosswise and tops cut into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces
2 stalks rhubarb, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
4 sprigs thyme
1 serrano chili, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
4 chicken legs
Frisée and Spring Onion Salad
Leaves from 2 heads frisée, cleaned and dried
½ cup (125 mL) Pickled Spring Onions, halved or quartered
½ cup (125 mL) toasted almonds, chopped
1 bunch green onions, finely chopped
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Make the Rhubarb Vinaigrette
1. In a skillet, heat 2 teaspoons (10 mL) oil over medium-high heat. Add rhubarb and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in garlic, orange zest and juice and simmer for a few minutes. Pour rhubarb mixture into a blender and add rice vinegar and honey. With the blender running, add remaining oil in a steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Vinaigrette can be stored in a mason jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Prepare the Chicken Leg Confit
2. In a medium bowl, combine olive oil, honey, onions, rhubarb, lemon zest and juice, thyme, chili, bay leaves, salt and pepper; stir together well. Add chicken thighs and mix around until all the chicken is coated. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or overnight.
3. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
4. Pour chicken and the marinade into a small baking dish and arrange so chicken is in a single layer. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until chicken is cooked through. Let chicken rest, covered with foil, for 10 minutes or so.
Make the Frisée and Spring Onion Salad
5. While chicken is resting, toss frisée, pickled onions, almonds and green onions in a large bowl. Dress salad with ½ cup (125 mL) Rhubarb Vinaigrette and season to taste with salt and pepper.
6. Serve Chicken Leg Confit with pan juices and Frisée and Spring Onion Salad.
SPRING GREENS AND HERBS
Most spring greens are a bit shy. What I mean by that is, for example, tender pea shoots or delicate, buttery lettuces are sweet, young versions of the “grown-up” greens they will become later in the season. What I love about these ingredients—spring dandelion and garlic scapes come to mind—is that in their early stages, they contain all their vibrant, direct flavour without all the bitterness that often comes with maturity. I particularly love the earthy freshness of these greens in my Pasta with Dandelion Greens, Chorizo and Manchego. You’ll see these young greens and herbs, like chervil, dill and parsley, appear in local markets only as the spring season gets under way, so it’s well worth seeking them out for a special treat.
DANDELION CAESAR SALAD with CRISPY ANCHOVY CROUTONS and GARLIC CONFIT DRESSING
Dandelion greens are a member of the sunflower family and are considered a bitter green. They can be used anytime you are making something that calls for a hearty green like kale or chard. The richness of this salad comes from the garlic confit dressing. The salad is then topped with crispy white anchovies, making it an incredible Caesar. To save you a little time, make the dressing up to a week ahead.
Serves 4
Garlic Confit
2 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled (at least 14 cloves)
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 cup (250 mL) olive oil
Garlic Confit Dressing
Makes 1 cup (250 mL)
10 confit garlic cloves
¾ cup (175 mL) garlic-infused or regular olive oil
¼ cup (60 mL) sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dark brown sugar
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Aïoli
Makes about ½ cup (125 mL)
3 to 4 confit garlic cloves
Kosher salt
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) Dijon mustard
¼ cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons (45 mL) canola oil
Cracked black pepper
Crispy Anchovy Croutons
4 cups (1 L) canola oil, for frying
1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
12 white anchovy fillets, drained
Salad
4 cups (1 L) dandelion greens, washed and trimmed
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Parmesan cheese
Prepare the Garlic Confit
1. In a small saucepan, combine garlic cloves, thyme, bay leaves and olive oil. Make sure the olive oil completely covers the garlic. Cook over as low a heat as possible for 30 to 40 minutes, until garlic cloves are golden brown and very tender. Allow garlic and oil to cool to room temperature.
Make the Garlic Confit Dressing
2. In a blender or food processor, combine confit garlic cloves, oil, vinegar, lemon juice and sugar. Blend or pulse until dressing is emulsified. Season well with salt and pepper. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Make the Aïoli
3. Mince confit garlic cloves, then mash to a paste with a pinch of salt using the side of a large, heavy knife.
4. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks, lemon juice and mustard in a bowl. Combine olive and canola oils and add, a few drops at a time, to yolk mixture, whisking constantly, until all oil is incorporated and mixture is emulsified. Whisk in garlic paste and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill, covered, until ready to use.
Prepare the Crispy Anchovy Croutons
5. In a large, deep saucepan, heat 2 inches (5 cm) oil to 350°F (180°C).
6. In a bowl, mix together flour, salt and pepper. Dredge half of anchovies in flour mixture, tossing to coat well. Transfer to a sieve and shake to remove excess flour. Fry, stirring frequently to separate, until golden, about 3 minutes, then transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towel to drain. Repeat with remaining anchovies.
Assemble the Salad
7. In a large bowl, toss the dandelion greens with ½ cup (125 mL) Garlic Confit Dressing. Season with salt and pepper.
8. Place a large spoonful of aïoli on each salad plate and use the back of the spoon to spread aïoli into a large circle. Divide dressed greens among plates, placing them in the middle of the aïoli. Shave Parmesan over each salad and garnish with Crispy Anchovy Croutons.
PASTA with DANDELION GREENS, CHORIZO and MANCHEGO
This is one of my favourite go-to pastas—it’s so quick and easy to make. Dandelion greens pair so wonderfully with chorizo, chilies, garlic and lots of cheese. I love using chorizo sausage here, but if you can’t get your hands on any, Italian sausage or bacon would be amazing too.
Serves 4 to 6
4 tablespoons (60 mL) olive oil, divided
2 fresh chorizo sausages, meat removed from casings
2 small red chilies, seeded and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 pound (450 g) pasta, whichever shape you desire
2 cups (500 mL) dandelion greens, washed and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped flat-leaf parsley
Grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
¾ cup (175 mL) grated Manchego cheese
1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons (30 mL) oil. Add chorizo and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the meat is cooked, stirring often. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 mL) oil and lower the heat to medium-low. When the oil is warm, add chilies and garlic and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta according to package directions until al dente.
3. Drain pasta and add to warm chorizo mixture. Add dandelion greens, parsley and lemon zest and juice. Mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve pasta immediately, topped with grated Manchego.
CHICKEN BREASTS with MORELS, ASPARAGUS and LEMON HERB DRESSING
This really is a delicious, quick meal: the chicken will be tender and sautés quickly. Then there’s the lemon, tarragon and butter all swirled together into a wonderful dressing, with your favourite spring vegetables. A perfect spring dinner! If you can’t find morels, chanterelle or oyster mushrooms would be perfect alternatives.
Serves 4
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 2-inch (5 cm) lengths
½ cup (125 mL) sweet peas
½ cup (125 mL) shelled fava beans
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, butterflied
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons (30 mL) unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely diced
1 cup (250 mL) morel mushrooms, washed well, dried and cut in half
2 to 4 radishes, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons (30 mL) coarsely chopped tarragon
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
Lemon wedges, for garnish, if desired
1. In a saucepan of boiling salted water, blanch asparagus for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain asparagus, pat dry with paper towel and transfer to a small bowl. Blanch and cool the peas the same way, and add to asparagus. Lastly, blanch and cool the fava beans the same way. Using your fingers or a paring knife, carefully tear open the outer hull of each bean. Gently squeeze out the fava beans and add to asparagus and peas.
2. Season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 chicken breasts and sauté until golden brown and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to serving plates and cover with foil. Add remaining 1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil to pan if needed and repeat with remaining chicken breasts.
3. In the same skillet over medium heat, add butter, shallots and morels. Sauté until morels are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in blanched asparagus, peas and fava beans and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Remove from heat and toss in radishes, tarragon and lemon juice. Spoon over chicken, and garnish with lemon wedges, if using.
SPRING ONIONS AND RAMPS
Every spring, a few weeks after the last snow has cleared and the sun has encouraged all sorts of new growth, we’ll pack up the dogs and head out to pick ramps. We love gathering these intensely garlicky wild leeks, as they’re a sure sign that spring has arrived. After cleaning and trimming them, the real fun begins—cooking them in as many ways as we can. I might preserve them into Pickled Ramps or whip up a pesto for my Primavera Pizza with Ramp Pesto. Of course, if you don’t have wild ramps available in your neck of the woods, spring onions make a great substitute. They have a softer onion flavour but are just as versatile. When eaten raw, both have an unmistakable, pleasantly pungent kick; grilling and frying help to tame that bite into a mellow, crowd-friendly flavour.
PICKLED SPRING ONIONS
This quick little pickle is a great way to preserve that extra bunch of fresh spring onions lurking in your crisper. They add a bright zip to salads and dressings, keep well for weeks and only take minutes to make.
Makes two 1-pint (500 mL) jars
2 cups (500 mL) spring onions or pearl onions, peeled
¾ cup (175 mL) rice vinegar
½ cup (125 mL) water
¼ cup (60 mL) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) kosher salt
1 clove garlic, halved
1 teaspoon (5 mL) fresh thyme leaves
½ teaspoon (2 mL) black peppercorns
1. Divide onions between two 1-pint (500 mL) mason jars.
2. In a saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until sugar and salt dissolve. Add garlic, thyme and peppercorns, reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes.
3. Pour the pickling liquid over the onions and cover the jars with lids. Let cool to room temperature then refrigerate overnight. These will keep in the refrigerator for 3 weeks.
PRIMAVERA PIZZA with RAMP PESTO
I love to fire up the wood-burning oven at home for an impromptu pizza party with friends. In the spring everyone asks for this classic springtime combination of morels, fiddleheads, ramp pesto and a beautiful creamy buffalo mozzarella. This pizza is a wonderful celebration of spring produce and a real crowd-pleaser. If morels aren’t available, any type of mushroom will work.
Makes 6 individual pizzas
Basil Ramp Pesto
Makes about 3 cups (750 mL)
½ cup (125 mL) toasted walnuts
3 cups (750 mL) packed fresh basil leaves
4 to 6 ramps, cleaned well (or 1 bunch of green onions)
¾ to 1 cup (175 to 250 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup (250 mL) grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
Pizza Dough
1 cup (250 mL) lukewarm water
1 tablespoon (15 mL) honey
4 teaspoons (22 mL) active dry yeast
2½ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
Morel and Fiddlehead Topping
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 mL) unsalted butter
2 small shallots, thinly sliced
½ pound (225 g) morel mushrooms, washed well, dried and cut in half lengthwise
½ pound (225 g) fiddleheads, washed and dried
1 teaspoon (5 mL) chopped thyme
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
For Assembly
Cornmeal, for dusting
Olive oil, for brushing
1 ball (8 ounces/225 g) buffalo mozzarella
Make the Basil Ramp Pesto
1. In a food processor, chop walnuts for 30 seconds or until finely chopped. Add basil leaves and ramps. With processor running, slowly pour oil through the feed tube and process until pesto is thoroughly puréed. Add the pecorino and process for a just a second to mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store pesto in the refrigerator with a thin film of olive oil on top until ready to use.
Make the Pizza Dough
2. In a medium bowl, stir together water, honey and yeast and let rest until mixture is frothy, about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, stir together flour, oil and salt, then pour in yeast mixture and knead into a smooth dough, about 3 to 4 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at warm room temperature until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
3. While dough rises, place a pizza stone in the bottom of a cold oven and preheat oven to 500°F (260°C).
Prepare the Morel and Fiddlehead Topping
4. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil and butter until butter starts to bubble. Add shallots and morels and cook until morels have softened, about 2 minutes. Add fiddleheads and thyme and cook for 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from heat.
Assemble and Bake the Pizzas
5. Punch down dough and divide into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball. On a lightly floured surface, roll out 1 ball of dough into a 10-inch (25 cm) circle, ¼ inch (5 mm) thick. Sprinkle cornmeal onto pizza peel (or underside of a baking sheet) and place dough on the peel. Shake the peel to test that the dough will easily slide onto the pizza stone.
6. Brush rim of pizza with olive oil. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 mL) Basil Ramp Pesto evenly over the pizza. Sprinkle morels and fiddleheads over pesto. Rip mozzarella into pieces with your hands and distribute evenly. Slide pizza onto the hot stone and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the crust is golden and crisp and the cheese is bubbly. Let rest for a minute before slicing, and repeat with the remaining dough.
PEAMEAL on a BUN with SPRING ONION PICKLE RELISH and HONEY MUSTARD AÏOLI
Peameal on a bun brings back memories of Saturdays shopping at the St. Lawrence Market in Toronto, where your first stop is to buy a peameal sandwich before you start your morning shop. The aïoli on this sandwich is an incredible condiment. I love how the sweetness of the honey and the sharpness of the mustard combine to create this rich and creamy aïoli, a wonderful accompaniment to a variety of sandwiches and snacks.
Serves 4
Honey Mustard Aïoli
Makes 1 cup (250 mL)
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) salt
1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise
2 tablespoons (30 mL) whole-grain mustard (I like Kozlik’s Triple Crunch Mustard)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice
1 tablespoon (15 mL) honey
Spring Onion Pickle Relish
Makes 1 cup (250 mL)
6 slices maple bacon, diced
½ cup (125 mL) finely diced celery heart
¼ cup (60 mL) finely diced spring onions or green onions
1 small red chili, seeded and chopped
¼ cup (60 mL) finely diced dill pickle
2 tablespoons (30 mL) white wine vinegar
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped celery leaves
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped flat-leaf parsley
Peameal Sandwiches
¼ cup (60 mL) honey
¼ cup (60 mL) Dijon mustard
1 pound (450 g) peameal bacon, thickly sliced into 16 slices
4 kaiser rolls
4 butter lettuce leaves
Make the Honey Mustard Aïoli
1. In a small bowl, stir together garlic, salt, mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice and honey. Keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Make the Spring Onion Pickle Relish
2. In a sauté pan over medium heat, cook maple bacon until crisp. Add celery hearts, spring onions and chili; toss together. Then add pickles and vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and stir in celery leaves and parsley.
Prepare the Sandwiches
3. In a small bowl, whisk together honey and mustard. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 4 slices bacon and brush tops with honey mustard glaze to coat well. Turn and brush with more glaze. Cook bacon until golden brown and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove bacon to a plate and repeat with remaining bacon.
4. Cut rolls in half. Spread 1 tablespoon (15 mL) Honey Mustard Aïoli on the bottom half of the roll. Layer each sandwich with a lettuce leaf and 4 slices peameal bacon. Finish each sandwich with a large spoonful of Spring Onion Pickle Relish.
T-BONE STEAK with SPRING ONION CHIMICHURRI
This steak is truly one of my favourites. Cooked to medium-rare perfection and served with bright, sharp chimichurri, there’s no better way to eat steak in the spring! I always have a jar of this incredible chimichurri sauce in my fridge at home and at Ruby Watchco. It is one of the quickest sauces you can make, it’s packed with flavour and goes so well on absolutely everything.
Serves 4
Spring Onion Chimichurri
Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)
1 cup (250 mL) flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 cup (250 mL) cilantro
½ cup (125 mL) red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon (5 mL) smoked paprika
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced serrano chili
1 sprig thyme, leaves only
2 small spring onions
4 cloves garlic, peeled
½ cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon (2 mL) kosher salt
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) cracked black pepper
T-Bone Steak
1 T-bone steak (about 2 pounds/900 g and 1½ to 2 inches/4 to 5 cm thick)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) canola oil
Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup (250 mL) shishito peppers
2 sprigs rosemary
2 sprigs thyme
Flaky sea salt
Make the Spring Onion Chimichurri
1. Combine parsley, cilantro, vinegar, paprika, chili, thyme, spring onions and garlic in a small food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add olive oil, season with salt and pepper and mix well with a spoon. Sauce can be stored tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Prepare the T-Bone Steak
2. Remove steak from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
3. In a large cast-iron pan, heat canola oil until shimmering. Season each side of steak with salt and pepper.
4. Place steak in the hot pan and sear on one side for about 3 minutes, then flip it over and sear on other side for 3 minutes more. Transfer the pan to the oven and continue to cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 125°F (50°C).
5. Return pan to stove over high heat. Add butter, garlic, shishito peppers, rosemary and thyme. Baste steaks with melted butter for about 1 minute on each side.
6. When steak is cooked to your liking—130 to 135°F (55 to 58°C) for medium-rare, 140°F (60°C) for medium—remove it to a warm serving plate and let rest for about 10 minutes. Set aside pan with peppers and garlic.
7. Cut the steaks off the bone, then slice the meat across the grain. Top with shishito peppers, garlic and Spring Onion Chimichurri. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and serve.
PICKLED RAMPS
Ramps are intensely vibrant, with an incredible flavour profile—garlic, sweet onions and leeks all wrapped into one. Their growing season is very short, so I needed to figure out a way to hold on to those special flavours for as long as I could. Pickling was one of my first attempts at preserving ramps, and I’ve been using this recipe ever since. I have been known to add these to my Caesars, other salads and salsas. Highly recommended!
Makes two 1-quart (1 L) jars
1 pound (450 g) ramps
4 tablespoons (60 mL) kosher salt, divided
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1 cup (250 mL) white wine vinegar
1 cup (250 mL) white wine
1 cup (250 mL) water
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon (5 mL) mustard seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) coriander seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) fennel seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) pink peppercorns
1 teaspoon (5 mL) black peppercorns
1 teaspoon (5 mL) red pepper flakes
1. Trim root ends off ramps and cut off leaves, saving them for another use (like Ramp Butter). Rinse bulbs well under cool running water.
2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons (30 mL) salt. Drop in ramps and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, until tender. Transfer to a bowl of ice water until cool. Drain ramps well, then divide them between two 1-quart (1 L) mason jars.
3. In a saucepan, combine sugar, vinegar, white wine, water and remaining 2 tablespoons (30 mL) salt. Bring to a boil. Add bay leaves, mustard seeds, coriander, fennel, pink and black peppercorns and red pepper flakes.
4. Pour hot vinegar mixture over the ramps and let cool. Once cool, seal tightly and transfer to the refrigerator to pickle overnight. Use within 3 weeks.
STRAWBERRIES
When I think about strawberry season, it makes me very happy. I’ve spent my share of sunny afternoons at pick-your-own farms snacking my way through juicy handfuls, still warm and perfumed, each berry the perfect sweet mouthful. At the first sight of local strawberries in the farmers’ markets—tiny and fragrant, bright red all the way through—I start imagining all the different ways to enjoy them. The simplest, and best, of course, is in a giant bowl topped with whipped cream. But I also love serving them in my Lemon-Strawberry Doughnuts with Vanilla Cream or incorporated in my Strawberry Ice Cream Sandwiches. I love baking with them, especially in my sweet-tart Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp with Pecan Crumble.
LEMON-STRAWBERRY DOUGHNUTS with VANILLA CREAM
I just love the phrase “It’s time to make the doughnuts!” So let’s make the doughnuts. Yes, they may take a bit of time, but they are so worth the wait. You can make the vanilla pastry cream a couple of days ahead to speed up preparation. I always keep a big batch of pastry cream handy in my refrigerator during strawberry season, ready to make a whole slew of quick and delicious desserts.
Makes about 12 doughnuts
Vanilla Pastry Cream
Makes about 1 cup (250 mL)
½ cup (125 mL) heavy (35%) cream
½ cup (125 mL) whole milk
4 tablespoons (60 mL) granulated sugar, divided
Pinch of salt
3 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons (30 mL) cornstarch
2 tablespoons (30 mL) water
1 teaspoon (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons (30 mL) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
Doughnuts
2¾ cups (675 mL) bread flour, divided
1 packet (¼ ounce/7 g) instant yeast
3 tablespoons (45 mL) granulated sugar, plus ¼ cup (60 mL) for dusting
½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt
1 cup (250 mL) whole milk, warmed to 115°F (46°C)
1½ teaspoons (7 mL) pure vanilla extract
3 large egg yolks
¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Vegetable oil, for frying
To Serve
2 cups (500 mL) sliced hulled strawberries
Grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon (2 mL) pure vanilla extract
Icing sugar, for dusting
Make the Vanilla Pastry Cream
1. In a medium saucepan, combine cream, milk, 2 tablespoons (30 mL) sugar and salt. Warm gently over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
2. In a heatproof bowl, whisk egg yolks with remaining 2 tablespoons (30 mL) sugar until just mixed. In a small bowl, stir together cornstarch and water, then whisk cornstarch mixture into yolks. Slowly whisk about half of the warm cream mixture into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Scrape yolk mixture back into remaining cream mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until custard is thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and butter until melted.
3. Pour pastry cream through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl. Press a piece of plastic wrap on top of the custard and let cool. Refrigerate until ready to use. The pastry cream can be kept in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3 days.
Make the Doughnuts
4. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, stir together 2 cups (500 mL) flour, yeast, 3 tablespoons (45 mL) sugar and salt. Add warm milk, vanilla and egg yolks. Mix on slow speed until smooth. Add remaining ¾ cup (175 mL) flour and the butter and mix on slow speed until incorporated. Continue to mix on medium speed until dough is soft, smooth and slightly sticky.
5. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rise for 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 12 hours.
6. Dust a work surface with flour and turn out the dough. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll dough out to about ¼-inch (5 mm) thickness. Using a 3-inch (8 cm) round cutter, cut out 12 circles and place on a lightly floured baking sheet. Reroll the scraps and continue cutting out circles until you’ve used all the dough. Cover rounds with plastic wrap and let rise for about 30 minutes.
7. While doughnuts rise, in a large, deep pot, heat at least 2 inches (5 cm) oil to 360°F (185°C). Set a wire rack over paper towel.
8. Using a spatula, carefully lower a few doughnuts into the oil; do not crowd the pot. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning a few times, until doughnuts are a light golden brown and cooked through. Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and drain on the wire rack. Return oil to 360°F (185°C) and repeat with remaining doughnuts. Let cool slightly before tossing in the remaining ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar. Let cool completely.
Prepare the Strawberries
9. While the doughnuts are cooling, toss strawberries with lemon zest and vanilla. Let strawberries sit for 15 minutes to allow flavours to develop.
Assemble the Doughnuts
10. Cut doughnuts in half crosswise. Spoon Vanilla Pastry Cream on the bottom half of each doughnut, then place a layer of sliced strawberries on top of the pastry cream. Top with the other half of the doughnut and sprinkle with icing sugar.
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM SANDWICHES
I have to thank June, my mother-in-law, for the best shortbread recipe. It’s simple to prepare and the perfect cookie to hug a big scoop of strawberry ice cream.
Makes 6 ice cream sandwiches
Strawberry Ice Cream
Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L)
2 cups (500 mL) strawberries, hulled and quartered
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar, divided
4 large egg yolks
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) kosher salt
1½ cups (375 mL) whole milk
1½ cups (375 mL) heavy (35%) cream
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped out
June’s Shortbread Cookies
Makes 12 cookies
1 cup (250 mL) cold unsalted butter
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons (105 mL) granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
½ cup (125 mL) cornstarch
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) salt
Make the Strawberry Ice Cream
1. In a medium bowl, combine strawberries, lemon juice and ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar. Toss until the sugar begins to dissolve. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes while you prepare the custard.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks, the remaining ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar and salt until eggs look pale yellow and are well combined with the sugar. In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring milk, cream and vanilla seeds to a simmer. Whisking constantly, add a few ladles of the hot milk mixture to the yolk mixture. Whisk yolk mixture into remaining milk mixture. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until custard has thickened enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, 4 to 6 minutes. Strain mixture into a bowl and set over another large bowl filled with ice water. Stir occasionally to cool, about 30 minutes.
3. Coarsely pulse half the strawberries and their juices in a food processor. Stir the chunky purée and remaining strawberries into the custard. Place in the refrigerator to continue to chill for at least 2 hours. You want the custard to be ice cold before churning.
4. Pour cold custard mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions until ice cream looks like thick soft serve. Scrape into an airtight container and freeze until hard, about 4 hours.
Make June’s Shortbread Cookies
5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
6. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together butter and sugar until creamed, about 2 minutes. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, cornstarch and salt. Add flour mixture to creamed butter. Mix on low speed until dough starts to come together. Dump onto a flour-dusted surface and shape into a flat disc about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes, until firm but still pliable.
7. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough out to ½-inch (1 cm) thickness. Cut out cookies with a 2½-inch (6 cm) round cutter. Place cookies on an ungreased baking sheet and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges begin to brown. Transfer to wire racks and allow to cool completely.
Assemble the Ice Cream Sandwiches
8. Sandwich a generous scoop of Strawberry Ice Cream between two of June’s Shortbread Cookies and gently press together. These can be made ahead of time, wrapped in parchment paper and kept in the freezer until ready to eat. They will keep in the freezer for about 2 weeks.
STRAWBERRY RHUBARB CRISP with PECAN CRUMBLE
This is not a complicated recipe at all, I know, but I love its simplicity, and I make this crisp at home all the time when this fruit combination is in season. Sweet, juicy strawberries and lip-puckering rhubarb topped with a buttery pecan crumble, this is a wonderfully comforting dessert and the perfect treat to lead us into summer! Serve warm with vanilla ice cream, or your own homemade Strawberry Ice Cream.
Serves 6 to 8
4 cups (1 L) strawberries, hulled and halved
4 cups (1 L) rhubarb cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
1 to 1¼ cups (250 to 300 mL) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) cornstarch
2 teaspoons (10 mL) pure vanilla extract
1 cup (250 mL) dark brown sugar
½ cup (125 mL) graham cracker crumbs
½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour
½ cup (125 mL) old-fashioned rolled oats
¼ cup (60 mL) pecans, toasted and chopped
½ teaspoon (2 mL) salt
¾ cup (175 mL) unsalted butter, cut into small dice
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
2. In a large bowl, combine strawberries, rhubarb, granulated sugar, cornstarch and vanilla. Stir together well, then let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. Pour mixture into an 11- × 9-inch (2.5 L) baking dish.
3. In a large bowl, combine brown sugar, graham cracker crumbs, flour, oats, pecans and salt. Add butter and 2 tablespoons (30 mL) water and mix everything together with your hands, creating a crumbly texture with a few large clumps.
4. Spread pecan crumble topping over fruit. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown.
