Some Basic Etiquette

In the spring of 2018, the year thirty million tourists visited Japan, I started seeing articles on “kankō kōgai,” or “tourism pollution.” The large increase in the number of tourists is having a negative effect on the lives of the residents of many highly popular locations. Some of this is due to rude and disrespectful behavior, but some is just the result of not knowing what is offensive or objectionable. I hope this section helps you adjust your behavior so you are not part of the problem. In other words: people live here. Be polite, and don’t lower the quality of life for locals. Observe the Japanese around you and take them as your model.

As this section only covers some basic tips, I strongly recommend a copy of Amy’s Guide to Best Behavior in Japan for a broader guide to etiquette.

Noise

It is often important to be quiet. When you return from your trip you may be surprised how noisy things seem at home. If you are strolling in a residential area, keep your voice down. If you need to speak to your travel mate, don’t do it from several feet away or raise your voice. This is especially true in the early morning or late at night.

Physical contact

Avoid touching unless your Japanese acquaintance initiates it. Expect to bow slightly rather than shake hands in many instances. In situations where contact is unavoidable, such as crowded trains, you don’t need to apologize for being pressed against someone, as it is understood this is unavoidable. Be sure to remove any backpacks before boarding trains. Hold them in front of you or place them on an overhead rack.

Shoes off

There will be situations where you will have to remove your shoes, such as in some restaurants and traditional hotels. Be sure you pack socks without holes or stains. Never step on tatami mats with footwear, even slippers. Some restaurants will have raised tatami seating areas, or whole rooms with the floor covered in tatami.

Walking

• On crowded sidewalks walk on the left. This may differ from where you are from, so expect to remind yourself to shift to the left.

• If you need to use your phone in busy areas, move to the curb and do so standing.

• Don’t eat and walk. It is considered crude and there are few trash receptacles on the streets.

• Smoking is banned on busy sidewalks in much of Tokyo, with the exception of designated locations.

• If you hear the bell or squeaking brakes of a bicycle behind you, move to the side and let them pass.

• If you are using GPS navigation in a smartphone or tablet while walking, raise your device to eye level to get your bearings, then move the phone back down and continue on.

• Watch your step. There are many small rises and irregularities on sidewalks and other locations.

Roji

The word roji is usually translated as “alley,” but in reality they are more complex than the English word indicates. Some roji are public, either commercial areas or passageways to places that may be worth exploring. Some are private; these are usually very narrow and only give access to dwellings. Think of them as you would an apartment building lobby. However, I have seen narrow roji (some listed in this book) leading to small neighborhood shrines that are acceptable to pass through. Just remember to be quiet as you do so.

Photos

I tend to avoid photos where the faces of people are clearly visible. This is especially important if you plan to post pictures online. The Japanese tend to be rather private about many things. If you do post photos, obscure any visible faces and license plate numbers before doing so. Also, don’t block paths when taking pictures. Make sure people don’t have to stop and wait for you to hit the shutter.

Visiting Shintō shrines and Buddhist temples

Even if you do not plan to worship at a shrine or temple, the following etiquette will help you be respectful of the community. There are regional variants in behavior at shrines and temples, but your sincerity is more important than observing strict rules. For behavior at the temizuya and at shrine buildings, I used the instructions on the Meiji Jingū website as the model.

Entering the grounds

When approaching and leaving a shrine or temple, bow once at the gate facing the shrine. Not all Japanese do this, so don’t worry if you forget. If there is a heavy wooden bar on the ground at the gate, do not step on it. Treat the area past the gate as sacred, as you would treat a holy building. As much as possible do not walk on the middle of the path leading to the shrine or temple. This portion is reserved for the kami and buddhas. Shintō tradition says you should not visit a shrine if you are sick, have an open wound, or are in mourning.

Purification

Most shrines, and some temples, have a temizuya or chōzuya, a place to ritually purify yourself with water. The practice is considered respectful and is not a religious act of worship. To do this, pick up a ladle in your right hand and fill it with enough water for the following process. Be sure none of the water spills back into the basin. Pour some of the water over your left hand to rinse it, then transfer the ladle to your left and do the same to your right hand. Return the ladle to your right hand and pour some water into your left to use for lightly rinsing your mouth. Politely spit the water on the ground (do not drink it). Finally, hold the ladle vertically so the remaining water flows down the handle, then return it to its place. Often there will be a sign at the chōzuya showing how this is done.

For those who wish to perform a small act of individual worship, the following covers the basics.

Paying your respects at a shrine

• Toss one or more coins into the offering box. Many people use a five-yen coin, as the Japanese for five yen “go en” (五円) is a homophone with goen (御縁), “go” being a respectful prefix and “en” meaning relationship.

• If there is a bell, there will be a rope hanging in front of the offering box. Ring the bell two or three times.

• Bow twice.

• Clap twice, then keep your hands together.

• Make a wish, or pay your respects and thank the kami.

• Bow once before leaving.

Paying your respects at a Buddhist temple

• Bow slightly.

• If there is one, ring the gong one, two, or three times.

• Toss a coin in the offering box.

• Bow slightly. Do not clap but put your hands together in a prayerful pose.

• If you have a Buddhist rosary, hold it while you pray.

• Pay your respects and thank the Buddha.

• Bow slightly before leaving.

General shrine and temple behavior

• Be respectful of worshippers. Do not block walkways or converse loudly.

• While it is OK to dress casually when visiting shrines and temples, leave the shorts and revealing tops at home.

• You may be required to remove your shoes when entering some buildings. There will either be shelves where you can leave them or plastic bags you can carry them in.

• Some temples and shrines do not allow photography as they have had trouble with photographers interfering with worshipers. Look for signs.

• At shrines and temples you will see ema. These are small wooden plaques that people buy and write a prayer on. It is OK to read these if you get curious. You can also buy them as souvenirs.

Bathhouses (sentō) and hot springs (onsen)

If you plan on visiting a sentō or onsen, here are some procedures you should follow:

• You will need shampoo, soap, and towels for sentō. You can bring your own or obtain them for a fee on site.

• Expect to take your shoes off soon after entering.

• Go to the proper side: look for the kanji 男 for male and 女 for female.

• Strip in the changing room, place your clothing in a locker, and enter the bath area with your small towel and locker key. Be modest in your nudity, cover your crotch.

• Sit facing the wall at a faucet and wash first. Do a good job, and rinse well so you don’t take any suds into the bath itself. Be sure to not splash water on others. Do not take your towel into the bath. You can place it on the rim so it does not touch the water.

• Think of the bath as a hot tub rather than a place to wash. In fact the hot tub is simply a Western adaptation of the Japanese bath. If there is more than one bath, be careful which one you get into. Different baths may be very hot or cold, so test the water first.

• If you use a sauna on site, rinse before soaking in the bath.

• Be aware there is a thing called denkiburo “electricity bath” 電気風呂 that has a small current running through it. Some folks like it, some don’t. If you have a pacemaker or heart condition, avoid these.

• When you are done there may be vending machines and a place to rest a little before heading out.

NOTE: If you have an open wound or are menstruating, you should avoid public baths.