Day Trippin’
You may tire of the urban landscape and want to head to a place where the population is of a much lower density. If you do so, I strongly recommend you plan to leave very early in the day as you will find the extra time before sundown enjoyable. Consider the following sights, which are just an easy train ride or two from Tokyo. While I note the terminal stations on the lines, you may find it more convenient start at a station closer to you on the same line.
NOTE: Weekends at these locations will be more crowded than during the week.
Mount Takao / Takaosan 高尾山
This location is actually still in Tokyo. Mount Takao is in the far Western part of Tokyo where one finds mountains, forests, and wild monkeys, as well as temples and shrines. The local train station is Takaosanguchi Station, which was designed by Kuma Kengo. Once there, you can avoid much of the climb by riding a funicular that takes you to the trail that goes to the Shingon Buddhist temple Yakuōin. You can keep walking past Yakuōin to the top, and if it is a clear day, enjoy the view of Mount Fuji in the distance. Close to the station is the Takao 599 Museum, which has displays about the mountain.
To get there
Start at the Keiō Shinjuku Station and take the Keiō Takao Line to Takaosanguchi Station.
Takao 599 Museum:
http://www.takao599museum.jp/?lang=en
Keio Line, Mount Takao Area:
https://www.keio.co.jp/english/sightseeing/takao.html
Nikkō 日光
Nikkō is such a famous tourist spot among the Japanese that I strongly warn you against going on weekends or holidays. During the slower weekdays the place is still packed with visitors. Just across the river from the town are numerous temples and Shintō shrines. The most famous of these is the large Nikkō Tōshōgū, which includes the grave of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tōshōgū is well-known for the polychrome carvings that cover the buildings.
To get there
There are several routes from Tokyo with different prices and different schedules that will put you into one of two stations in Nikkō. Nikkō is quite a distance from Tokyo, so keep that in mind when deciding on which train line to take.
• Tōbu Asakusa Station to Tōbu-Nikkō Station, two trains each hour. You can take a local or express train.
• Shinjuku or Ikebukuro to Tōbu-Nikkō Station, a limited express runs four times a day. A JR Pass can be used for part of the cost.
• Utsunomiya Station to JR Nikkō Station. The JR Pass can be used.
Nikkō Tourist Association:
https://www.visitnikko.jp/en/
Shōnan 湘南
A famous historical resort and beach area also known for its surfing. The two main places in the Shōnan area I suggest you consider are Enoshima and Kamakura.
To get there
• JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station to Kamakura Station
• JR Shōnan Shinjuku Line from Shinjuku to Kamakura Station
• Odakyu Railways from Shinjuku Station to Fujisawa Station, take the Limited Express Romancecar. This is a longer trip but cheapest if you get the reasonably priced Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass, which also allows you to use some local transportation.
Transfer to the Enoshima Electric Railway Enoden train. The Enoden is a trolley that winds through neighborhoods to Enoshima Station, then along the coast to end at Kamakura station.
https://www.odakyu.jp/english/passes/enoshima_kamakura/
Enoshima 江の島
Part of the city of Fujisawa includes a lovely island just off the Shōnan coast. Before the causeway to the island was complete, you would need to take a boat out or walk at low tide. The entire island is dedicated to Benten, who according to legend caused the island to rise from the bay in the 6th century. She did this so she could take up residence there, and to deal with a five-headed dragon that had been terrorizing the locals. The dragon promised to cease its evil, then faced the island and transformed into a nearby hill. The island and its temples have been the subject of many woodblock prints. The island has many restaurants, both as you first step foot on it and later as you reach the upper portion. Expect to use stairs, lots of them—more stairs than it seems at first. If you have trouble with stairs, there is a series of escalators that you can use for a fee.
Enoshima Shrine (in Japanese):
http://www.enoshimajinja.or.jp
Fujisawa City Tourist Association:
https://www.discover-fujisawa.jp
Kamakura 鎌倉
Located in Kanagawa Prefecture, Kamakura is famous as the capital of the Kamakura shōguns from 1185 to 1333. Political power resided here until the revolt of Emperor Go-Daigo resulted in the rise of the Ashikaga shōguns in Kyoto. During the Kamakura period the emperor was reduced to a ceremonial role while the samurai held the real power from this city.
Kamakura is famous for temples, shrines, and the huge statue of the Buddha. Portions of the city are scattered over a series of hills, making a stroll through it much like an easy hike in the country. The landscape stretches from the bay to the hills, with many different walking routes to choose from. Be sure to pick up a map at the train station or tourism office when you arrive.
Official Visitor Guide Visit Kamakura:
https://www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/visitkamakura/en/
Kawagoe 川越
Often referred to as Ko-Edo “Little Edo” due to the number of old buildings in the town. Once you are there, grab a map at the station and plan where you want to start. There is the Ko-Edo Loop Bus that goes to three local stations—you can buy either a ticket for one ride or an all-day pass. From the JR Kawagoe Station you can also take the Koedo Famous Locations Loop Bus. Tickets for this bus are day passes. The area was famous for growing sweet potatoes and there are many foods here that incorporate the tuber as an ingredient. Each October on the third Saturday and Sunday, the Kawagoe Matsuri is held. This is a lively festival where twenty-nine large two-story floats are paraded through town. When they meet at several locations, they have competitions with music.
To get there
• JR Kawagoe Line from Shinjuku, local to Kawagoe Station
• Seibu Shinjuku Line from Seibu Shinjuku, Limited Express to Hon-Kawagoe Station
• Tōbu Tōjō Line from Ikebukuro, Express to Kawagoe Station or Kawagoeshi Station
Koedo Kawagoe Tourist Association:
Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum / Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 江戸東京たてもの園
This is a branch of the Edo-Tokyo Museum that I covered in the Ryōgoku chapter. This museum consists of a series of buildings ranging from rural to urban. These are not replicas: rather they are entire buildings that were relocated here to become part of the collection. Several of these structures were used for reference when Studio Ghibli staff were designing the village in Spirited Away. The museum’s mascot is Edomaru, a green caterpillar that was designed by Miyazaki Hayao.
To get there
Take the JR Chūō line to Musashi-Koganei Station, then take a bus. The bus stops are #2 and #3. Get off at Koganei-Kōen Nishiguchi, which is next to Koganei Park. You can’t miss the park as it is heavily forested and very large. Just keep an eye out for the museum once you enter the park. You won’t see it for a while, so enjoy the walk.
Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum:
http://www.tatemonoen.jp/english/
The Railway Museum / Tetsudō Hakubutsukan 鉄道博物館
A massive four-story museum devoted to rail travel in Japan. The museum is so large that it contains a functioning railway turntable, numerous engines, and passenger carriages. It also has a library, hands-on exhibits, a museum shop, and—my favorite—an ekiben stand. Ekiben are a type of bentō sold at train stations that you can eat on trains.
To get there
From either Tokyo or Ueno Station, take the Ueno-Tokyo Line to Ōmiya Station and transfer to the New Shuttle line to the museum.
Main page (Japanese):
http://www.railway-museum.jp
Museum Guide English: