3

TRELLISES and OTHER STRUCTURES

PLANT SUPPORTS DON'T have to be purely functional; they can be beautiful too. When you start considering all of the different options you have for supporting your vining vegetable crops, it will really open your eyes to a whole new way of thinking.

One of the things I love the most about growing my vining vegetable crops vertically is that I can get so creative with it. Vertical plant supports add structure and beauty to the vegetable garden and give it a ton of character.

Most gardeners add plant supports to their vegetable gardens as an afterthought, out of pure necessity. Instead, I encourage you to think about how you can incorporate stunning vertical growing structures into your garden design before you even start planting your vegetable plot. Think of them as marvelous pieces of architecture in your garden, rather than necessary components you need to add as the plants grow larger.

When planning your vegetable garden, keep in mind that tall plant supports will cause shady spots in the garden. These shady nooks are excellent spots to plant small crops like lettuce and other leafy greens. Leafy crops and salad greens prefer a shady spot and will suffer when growing in the hot sun. You can also plant early crops, such as radishes and spinach, under tall structures, and they'll be harvested by the time the vining heat-loving crops fill in.

In this chapter, you will find the ideal plant support for any type of vining crop you want to grow. Whether you plan to grow lightweight vines such as pole beans, peas, or cucamelons; heavier crops such as cucumbers, gourds, and mini melons; or even the monster vines of grapes, squash, and hops, you'll find the perfect vertical gardening structure here.

There's a range of projects in this chapter, so if you're looking to build something a little more complex, try building an arbor, an obelisk, or a large trellis. If you're not good with power tools, don't worry; there are several projects here that don't require any complicated tools or special skills.

Vertical gardening structures are not only functional; they can be used to add wonderful pops of color to the garden too. The bright blue obelisks and lattice trellises make this vegetable garden look stunning.

FREESTANDING ARBOR

An arbor is a classic vertical gardening structure that definitely deserves a spot in every garden. Adding an arbor can change the entire feel of your garden, and it will become a main focal point in the landscape. Arbors are fantastic for adding shade and privacy and are often used to create cozy nooks or secluded spaces in the garden.

Arbors are sturdy structures that can be used to grow the largest of the vining crops—squash, grapes, hops, or melons—but would look equally impressive covered by the thick vines of smaller climbers such as pole beans or cucumbers.

This version of the classic arbor design is a great size for any garden. It's large enough to command attention in big gardens, but not so large that it would overwhelm a small space. Put it over a path at the entrance of your yard or garden to welcome guests in, or use it to add shade to a sunny patio. This arbor would also be perfect for framing an area of your garden, or you could put a bench underneath it to create a quaint sitting area.

Just keep in mind that, since arbors are so tall, you will likely need to pull out a ladder each time you want to harvest the crops growing at the very tops of the vines.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
4 × 4 × 10' boards (4)	Drill
2 × 6 × 12' board (1)	9/32" drill bit
2 × 6 × 8' boards (3)	1/2" socket wrench or drill adapter
1 × 2 × 8' boards (9)	Table saw
Carriage bolt 3/8" × 6", galvanized (8)	Miter saw
Washer & nut, galvanized, for bolts (8)	Tape measure
3" screws (4)	Hammer
11/4" finishing nails (64)	Pencil
2" finishing nails (56)	Eye and ear protection
	Work gloves
	Hammer or pneumatic nailer
	Square
	Ladder
	Posthole digger (optional if buried)

CUT LIST:
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Sides, buried 2'	4 × 4 × 10'	4	4 × 4 × 10' board
Design on top structure	2 × 6 × 4'	6	2 × 6 × 8' board
Top of structure	2 × 6 × 6'	2	2 × 6 × 12' board
Vertical support for lattice	1 × 2 × 6'	4	1 × 2 × 8' board
Horizontal lattice pieces	1 × 2 × 191/2"	16	1 × 2 × 8' board
Vertical lattice pieces	1 × 2 × 6'	4	1 × 2 × 8' board

How to Build an Arbor

STEP 1: Measure and cut all of the lumber for the arbor using a miter saw. To cut angles in the decorative top boards, measure 2" down from the top corner of the board and make a mark, then measure 7" in from the bottom corner and make another mark. Draw a line to connect the two marks on the board, and use a table saw (or circular saw) to cut the angle. Secure workpiece to miter gauge. Repeat to cut angles in both ends of the 2 × 6 × 6' boards, and also in all six of the 2 × 6 × 3' boards. Once the angles are cut in the boards, take the six 3' boards and measure 2" in from the bottom of the angle to mark the spot for each of the notches. Cut two 11/2"-wide by 2"-deep notches in each of the eight decorative top boards with a table saw.

STEP 2: Lay two of the 4 × 4 × 10' pieces of wood (the arbor legs) on a flat surface so they are parallel to each other and spaced 4' apart. Place one of the 2 × 6 × 6' boards perpendicular over the top of the legs. Ensure the top of the 6' board sits flush with the tops of the legs, and that it is centered, then use a 9/32" drill bit to drill two holes all the way through both boards on each leg for the carriage bolts. Use a hammer to tap the carriage bolts through each of the pilot holes so they go all the way through both boards. Place one washer and one nut on the end of each bolt, and hand-tighten the nuts. Ensure the boards are square, and then use the socket wrench to tighten each of the bolts. Repeat step to assemble the other half of the arbor frame. Position each half of the arbor frame so that they are 191/2" apart and sit parallel to each other, with the 6' boards on the top facing out. Use a posthole digger to dig holes that are 2' deep for each of the legs of the arbor, and place the arbor legs in the holes. Ensure that the two sides of the frame are completely level and sit at the same depth in the holes. You may need to make adjustments to the placement of the frame pieces, so don't bury the legs of the frame until after you have completed steps 3 and 4.

STEP 3: Starting at one end of the top board, slide a 4' board through the notches over the top board so it sits on the outside of the 4 × 4 frame legs. Ensure that the 4' board sits flush with both legs, and then drive 3" screws through the board to attach it to both legs.

STEP 4: Slide the rest of the 4' boards onto the top of the arbor, and space them so that they're 10" apart (the board on the end should sit on the outside of the arbor legs and be installed as explained in step 3). Secure the center boards to the top of the trellis by toenailing them using a pneumatic nailer or hammer.

STEP 5: Starting with one leg of the arbor, position one of the 1 × 2 × 6' vertical support pieces so that it's 18" down from the top of the leg and sits flush with the outside of the leg, then attach it to the leg using finishing nails. Repeat to install one vertical support piece onto each of the other three legs.

Tip:

To make the arbor more stable, pour concrete into the holes rather than burying the legs of the arbor with soil or gravel.

STEP 6: Starting on one side of the arbor, place one of the 1 × 2 × 191/2" boards horizontal to the legs so that it sits flush with the top of both of the vertical support pieces. Attach each end of the horizontal piece to one of the vertical supports using nails. Repeat to install the remaining horizontal lattice pieces, spacing them 81/2" apart. To install the vertical lattice pieces, position one of the 1 × 2 × 6' boards on the outside of the horizontal lattice pieces, spaced at 6" on center from the vertical support piece. Then attach it at each point where it crosses the horizontal lattice pieces using nails. Install the second vertical lattice piece so that it's 12" on center from the vertical support piece. Repeat step to install lattice on the other side of the arbor.

What Is a Pneumatic Nailer?

You will see a pneumatic nailer listed as one of the tools used for a couple of the projects in this book, and you might be wondering what the heck it is. A pneumatic nailer (also called a nail gun) is a tool that uses compressed air to drive nails into the wood, making the task much faster and easier.

Though you could use a regular hammer for building these projects, since there are a lot of nails required, a pneumatic nailer makes the job go much faster. It's certainly not required, but you might want to check to see if you can borrow one from a friend or neighbor or rent one for the day from a local hardware or home improvement store.

LARGE ARCH TUNNEL

Arches are one of my favorite vertical structures to use in my garden. Not only are they beautiful; they're functional too. Arches can provide a huge amount of growing space for vining crops.

This arch tunnel adds a magnificent architectural element to the garden and is perfect for growing large vining vegetable plants such as pole beans, melons, or squash. Use it to frame the entrance to your yard for dramatic appeal, or arch it over the top of a pathway to create shade and privacy.

The tunnel is made using 4-gauge wire fencing panels (also called cattle panels or livestock fencing), which can be found at any farm supply store. The metal fencing is very thick, and it makes a strong arch that can support large vining crops with ease.

One thing to keep in mind is that the fencing panels are very large (16 feet long), so plan accordingly when you go to pick them up. I learned this the hard way when we showed up with a pickup truck to haul away the fencing, only to find out the panel pieces wouldn't fit in the truck bed. We had to return later with a long trailer in order to bring them home.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
16' × 50" 4-gauge wire fencing pieces (3)	Hammer
9” heavy-duty metal landscape stakes (24) or tall fence post stakes (12)	Work gloves
	Eye protection

Note: The panel fencing pieces are heavy and very awkward to handle alone, so make sure you ask a friend to help you with this project.

How to Build a Large Arch Tunnel

STEP 1: Lay one of the fencing pieces on its side. Position one person at each end of the panel, and slowly walk toward each other to bend the panel into an arch shape. Stop when the ends of the panels are about 6' apart.

STEP 2: Slowly turn the arch so that it's standing up, then lift it into the garden and position it in the location where you want it.

STEP 3: Secure the bottom of the arch in the ground using four metal landscaping stakes on each side of the arch. Facing the tab of each stake toward the fencing, hammer the stakes into the ground at a slight angle. Once the landscaping stakes have been driven all the way into the ground, the metal tab of each stake should overlap the bottom piece of the fencing panel, ensuring that the panel is completely secured to the ground. Repeat steps 1 through 3 with the remaining two panels.

Note:

To stabilize the arches better, you could use 2' or 3' metal garden posts instead of landscaping stakes on the outside of the arches, and attach the fencing to the stakes using zip ties.

LARGE TEEPEE FORT

If you have kids, you know first-hand that it can be challenging to get them to eat their vegetables. Creating a special space for children in the garden is a wonderful way to get them interested in gardening, and also gets them excited about eating their vegetables. A large teepee fort is a fun place for kids to hide out, play, and grab a snack fresh from the vine whenever they want.

Pole beans are phenomenal for growing on a teepee fort. The fast-growing vines will quickly cover the teepee, and kids can easily pluck beans from the vine. To add more variety to the mix, you could interplant the pole beans with cucamelons or peas, which are also popular with the kiddos.

I used heavy-duty garden stakes for this project because I like how sturdy they are, and they will last a long time. These 8-foot-tall, heavy-duty garden stakes can be purchased at any garden center or home improvement store. Alternatively, you could use bamboo or even large tree branches if these materials are readily available to you. Just make sure they are 8 to 10 feet tall and sturdy enough to be driven into the ground.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
8' heavy-duty garden stakes (8)	Wire cutters
50' garden training wire	Ladder
	Work gloves
	Eye protection

How to Build a Large Teepee Fort

STEP 1: Space the poles about 11/2' apart in a circle, leaving a 3'-wide space for the door, and angling the poles in slightly at the top toward the center of the circle. Then drive each one into the ground to secure it in place.

STEP 2: Standing on a ladder, gather the tops of all the poles together in the center of the circle, and secure them together 8 to 10" from the top of the poles using the garden training wire. Weave the wire in and out of the poles as you work your way around the grouping to ensure the tops of all the poles are secured together.

STEP 3: Run the rest of the wire around the entire outside of the teepee (leaving the space for the door open), wrapping it once around every couple of poles to secure it. Space the wire 10 to 12" apart as you work your way down the teepee. This will give the vines extra support and a place to grab on to as they grow so they can completely cover the teepee.

SMALL ARCH TRELLIS

By now you know that growing vining crops vertically is a huge space-saver. But guess what—using an arch trellis is a double space-saver! The best part about growing vines on a small arch like this is that you can grow shorter crops such as lettuce, carrots, or herbs underneath it, giving you twice the space in your garden!

This small arch trellis is an ideal size for any garden and is perfect for growing cucumbers, cucamelons, or other smaller vining crops. The rebar pieces make the arch very strong, so it will have no problem supporting the weight of a vine full of mature cucumbers or mini melons.

Another benefit of growing vining crops on this small arch is that the vegetables will hang down, making them easy to see. The arch is also tall enough that you won't have to bend over too far to harvest.

Once the fencing has been secured onto the rebar frame, the arch is portable too. Simply pull the rebar pieces out of the ground, move the arch to the new spot, and push the rebar back into the ground.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
10' pieces of 3/8" rebar (2)	Wire cutters
28" 16-gauge metal garden fencing	Scissors
8" cable zip ties (12)	Work gloves (rebar is messy, so I recommend using gloves whenever you're handling it)
	Eye protection

Note: It is difficult to get the two rebar arch pieces into the exact same shape, so get them as close as you can. They don’t need to be exactly the same, since they will be spaced apart in the garden.

How to Build a Small Arch Trellis

STEP 1: Carefully bend each of the 3/8" rebar pieces into arches. The rebar will bend pretty easily, but take your time bending it because if you force it, the rebar could kink. You are aiming for an arch with 4' of space.

STEP 2: Install the arch pieces in the garden by driving the ends of the rebar into the ground. Space the ends of each arch 4' apart and the arches themselves 28" apart.

STEP 3: Lay the garden fencing over the top of the arch to measure how long the piece should be cut. Use wire cutters to cut the fencing to size.

STEP 4: Secure the fencing to the rebar arches using the zip ties, spacing the zip ties every 6 to 10" along the entire length of the rebar. Cut the extra tabs off the zip ties using scissors, if desired.

Using Garden Fencing for Trellising Large Vegetables

If you're using a trellis made out of garden fencing, chicken wire, or a similar type of material that has small holes in it, you'll need to keep an eye on your squash, melons, and cucumbers.

Baby vegetables can easily grow through the holes, and they sometimes get stuck in the fencing as they grow larger. So be sure to watch out for all of the new vegetables as they start to grow, and move them out of the holes before they grow large enough to become stuck in the fencing.

Don't worry; if you do find one that's become wedged in the fencing, you can still harvest it. Simply take a sharp knife and cut the fruit in half so that you will be able to remove it from the fencing. You can still enjoy your harvest; this just means you'll have to eat that one right away.

CLASSIC OBELISK

Traditionally found in formal gardens, obelisks are fancy plant supports that have four sides and a pyramid-shaped top. In ancient times, obelisks were impressive structures made of stone. But these days, garden obelisks are usually made out of wood or metal.

Obelisks are stunning in the garden, and I am a bit obsessed with them. They are fabulous and elegant features that add lots of interest as well as structure to the garden, and they can be very artistic too. Garden obelisks can be found in a wide range of shapes and sizes, and they look just as good without anything growing on them as they do covered with vining crops.

This version of the classic obelisk is 6 feet tall and extremely sturdy. Set it in a level spot, or sink it a few inches into the ground to ensure that it's stable, and then use it to grow vining crops such as cucamelons, cucumbers, small gourds, or mini melons.

Let the wood age naturally to give the classic obelisk a more rustic feel, or paint the wood to keep the formal look and add extra color to the vegetable garden. To make it even more classic, you could always add a decorative finial on the top.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
2 × 2 × 8' boards (4)	Drill
1 × 2 × 8' boards (5)	Table saw
#8 × 11/4" screws (44)	Ladder
#8 × 2" screws (4)	Eye and ear protection
Wood post cap (1)	Work gloves
	Tape measure
	Pencil

CUT LIST:
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Legs	2 × 2 × 6'	4	2 × 2 board
Bottom horizontal bands (outside)*	1 × 2 × 221/2"	2	1 × 2 board
Bottom horizontal bands (inside)*	1 × 2 × 21"	2	1 × 2 board
Second horizontal bands (outside)*	1 × 2 × 17"	2	1 × 2 board
Second horizontal bands (inside)*	1 × 2 × 151/2"	2	1 × 2 board
Third horizontal bands (outside)*	1 × 2 × 12"	2	1 × 2 board
Third horizontal bands (inside)*	1 × 2 × 101/2"	2	1 × 2 board
Fourth horizontal bands (outside)*	1 × 2 × 7"	2	1 × 2 board
Fourth horizontal bands (inside)*	1 × 2 × 51/4"	2	1 × 2 board
Center decorative pieces	1 × 2 × 4'	4	1 × 2 board

ANGLE ON DECORATIVE PIECE:	ANGLE ON BANDS:
45 degrees on top	11.5 degrees

* All measurements are prior to the angle—they are the longest point of the wood piece.

How to Build a Classic Obelisk

STEP 1: Measure and cut the wood for the obelisk using a miter saw, and then cut 11.5-degree angles at both ends of each of the bands. Use a miter saw to cut two 45-degree angles at one end of each of the four vertical decorative pieces, creating a point.

STEP 2: Lay two of the 2 × 2 leg pieces down on a flat surface. Angle them so that the tops of the two leg pieces are spaced 1” apart and the bottoms are spaced 211/2” apart. Position one of the 21” bands 11” up from the bottom of the legs, and lay it across the 2 × 2s. Ensure that the band is straight and that the angled ends of in the band are flush with the outsides of each of the legs. Predrill pilot holes through each end of the band into of the legs. Drive one 11/4” screw into each of the pilot holes to secure the band to both of the legs. Position one of the 151/2” bands 161/2” up from the top of the first band, and repeat the steps to secure the band to the legs. Repeat again to secure one of the 101/2” bands and then one of the 51/4” bands to the legs, each spaced 161/2” apart. Repeat step 2 to assemble the other half of the obelisk.

STEP 3: To attach the two sides of the obelisk together, stand both sides up and position them so that they are leaning into each other (the bands should be facing out). Angle the two pieces so that the tops are spaced 1” apart and the bottoms are spaced 211/2” apart. Position one of the 221/2” outside bands so that it sits parallel to the bottom bands on both halves of the obelisk, and the ends of each band are lined up with the ends of the bands that are already attached to the obelisk. The outside band should overlap the legs by 3/4” to line up with the inside bands. Predrill pilot holes through each end of the outside band into both of the legs, and drive one 11/4” screw into each hole to attach the band to both legs.

STEP 4: Working from the top of the obelisk to the bottom, follow the instructions in step 3 to attach the remaining three outside bands to the obelisk, starting with the 7” band at the top, then the 12” band, and finally the 17” band. Carefully flip the obelisk over and repeat steps 3 and 4 to secure the fourth side.

STEP 5: Stand the obelisk on its feet and place the cap over the top of all four 2 × 2s. Predrill pilot holes through the top cap and into each of the 2 × 2s, then drive a 2” screw into each pilot hole to secure the top cap to the obelisk.

STEP 6: Starting with one side of the obelisk, position one of the vertical decorative pieces so that it is centered between the legs on the inside of the horizontal bands. The flat end of the decorative piece should be lined up with the bottom edge of the longest horizontal band (the bottom band), and the pointed end of the decorative piece should be facing up. Ensure the decorative piece is centered and straight, then predrill pilot holes through each of the three horizontal bands into the vertical decorative piece, and drive one 11/4" screw into each of the pilot holes to attach the vertical decorative piece to the frame. Repeat step to attach the remaining three decorative pieces to the frame.

CONTEMPORARY OBELISK

Obelisks are one of my favorite vertical gardening structures. Not only are they great to use for growing vining crops; they add a unique and decorative touch to the garden too. Though I adore the classic obelisk design, I wanted to come up with a fresh design for modern garden spaces. So for this project, I put my own contemporary spin on the classic obelisk form.

The silver metal pipes and steel hardware give this obelisk a sleek, industrial feel that I love. Silver looks terrific against bare wood, but it would really pop if the legs of the obelisk were painted or stained using a darker color. To make this contemporary obelisk your own, add a fancy finial on top, or use a decorative cap rather than the simple wood one that I use here.

This small obelisk looked amazing covered by pea vines in my garden. Other small vining crops, such as cucumbers or miniature melons, would work equally well growing on this snazzy obelisk.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
2 × 2 × 8' boards (2)	Circular saw or handsaw
10' electrical metallic tubing (EMT) conduit (1)	Drill
5' EMT conduit (you will only need 21/2' of it, so buy a shorter length if you can) (1)	1/8” drill bit for pilot holes
	Pipe cutter
1/2" 2-hole EMT straps (20)	Tape measure
#8 × 3/8" sheet metal screws (40)	Pencil
2" screws (4)	Eye and ear protection
Wood post cap (1)	Work gloves

CUT LIST:
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Legs	2 × 2 × 4'	4	2 × 2 board
Crossbar	171/2"	2	EMT conduit
Crossbar	15"	2	EMT conduit
Crossbar	121/2"	2	EMT conduit
Crossbar	153/4"	2	EMT conduit
Crossbar	131/2"	2	EMT conduit

Note: Before you begin assembling your obelisk, take a moment to pop one pipe strap onto each end of all ten pipe pieces (the end of the pipe should be flush with the outside edge of the pipe strap). This will keep the pipes from rolling away as you work, and will also make assembly a little faster.

How to Build a Contemporary Obelisk

STEP 1: Lay two of the 2 × 2 pieces of wood on a flat surface. Angle them so that the tops of the two pieces are spaced 1" apart and the bottoms are spaced 18" apart. Position one of the 171/2" EMT pieces 6" up from the bottom of the 2 × 2s, and lay it across the 2 × 2s. Ensure that the pipe straps are centered on each 2 × 2, then predrill pilot holes into the wood through each hole in the pipe straps. Drive one sheet metal screw into each pilot hole to secure the conduit to both of the 2 × 2s. Ensure the screws are tight enough to firmly hold the pipe in place.

STEP 2: Position one of the 15" pipes 6" up from the 171/2" pipe. Repeat step 1 to attach the pipe to the 2 × 2s. Then repeat step 1 again to attach one of the 121/2" pipes 6" up from the 15" pipe. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to assemble the other half of the obelisk.

STEP 3: To attach the two sides of the obelisk together, stand them up and position them so that they are facing in opposite directions (the pipes should be facing out). Angle the two pieces so that the tops are 1" apart and the bottoms are 18" apart. Position one 131/2" pipe so it's centered on the 2 × 2s between the top two pipes. Predrill the pilot holes and secure the pipe to the 2 × 2s using the sheet metal screws. Then position the 153/4" pipe so it's centered between the bottom two pipes, and attach it to the 2 × 2s. Flip the obelisk over and repeat step 3 to secure the other side.

STEP 4: To attach the top cap, stand the obelisk on its feet and place the cap over the top of all four 2 × 2s. Predrill pilot holes through the top cap and into the 2 × 2s, then drive a 2" screw into each pilot hole to secure the top cap to the obelisk.

LARGE TRELLIS

Trellises come in lots of different shapes and sizes and are easy to find for sale at any garden center or home improvement store. But for the handy DIYer, it's just as easy to build your own. If you're looking for a classy trellis that will hold loads of vertical crops, then this one is for you.

The inspiration for this project came out of the need for filling a large space in my garden. I have a 10-foot-long raised bed that is right next to the side of the house. The huge blank wall above the bed was boring to look at, and I wanted to utilize that wasted space to grow more food. A dainty trellis wouldn't do—I needed something more substantial to cover the area—so this large trellis was designed to take up space.

This sturdy trellis would make a wonderful support for tall vines such as pole beans, cucamelons, or cucumbers. It's perfect to use as a screen to hide an unattractive fence or shed, or to cover a boring blank wall like mine; it could even double as a privacy wall next to a patio or sitting area in the garden. To cover even more space, build a few of these trellises and then line them up side by side to quickly cover an expansive area of the garden.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
2 × 2 × 8' boards (6)	Drill
1 × 2 × 8' boards (5)	Miter saw
#8 × 11/4" screws (5)	Pencil
#8 × 2” screws (5)	Tape measure
11/4” finishing nails (48)	Work gloves
	Hammer or pneumatic nailer
	Rubber mallet
	Level
	Eye and ear protection

CUT LIST:
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Vertical frame pieces	2 × 2 × 7'	5	2 × 2 board
Top of trellis frame	2 × 2 × 4'	1	2 × 2 board
Bottom of trellis frame	1 × 2 × 4'	1	1 × 2 board
Inside diamonds	1 × 2 × 153/4" at longest point	12	1 × 2 board
Outside edge diamonds	1 × 2 × 141/4" at longest point	12	1 × 2 board

How to Build a Large Trellis

STEP 1: Measure the length for each of the pieces of the diamond pattern. Set the appropriate angle on the miter saw, and cut the opposite corners of each angle piece at 31.6 degrees.

STEP 2: Lay the frame pieces of the trellis frame down on a flat surface. The five 7' pieces should be laid parallel to each other with a 10" space between the inside boards, and a 101/2" space between the outside boards. Place the 2 × 2 × 4' board perpendicular to the top of the 7' boards. Ensure the frame is square, predrill pilot holes in the top frame piece, and attach the boards together using 2" screws. Lay the 1 × 2 × 4' board perpendicularly across the 7' boards, 2' from the bottom of the trellis. Predrill pilot holes, and attach the 4' board to the frame using the 11/4" screws.

STEP 3: Leave the assembled frame flat on the ground, and lay out the diamond pattern over the top of the frame. Use the 153/4" angle pieces to create the pattern on the outside edges of each side of the frame, and use the 141/4" pieces to create the diamond pattern at the top and in the middle of the frame.

STEP 4: Use a hammer or a pneumatic nailer to attach the diamond pattern to the frame, ensuring that it is secure at every point where each of the pattern pieces crosses the trellis frame.

STEP 5: To install the trellis in the garden, use a shovel to dig a hole at least 1' deep for each leg. Set the legs of the trellis in the holes and ensure that the trellis is level before burying the legs with dirt. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the top of the trellis until it is level, if necessary.

UPCYCLED GARDEN TOOL FAN TRELLIS

A fan trellis is a timeless and classic design that adds form and function to the garden. There's a wide variety of materials that can be used to build a fan trellis, but what better material to use than gardening tools? This upcycled garden tool fan trellis puts a fun spin on the classic fan trellis design. Not only would it be an adorable addition to any garden; it's a great conversation starter too.

This project gives rusty or broken old gardening tools new life. You can use any type of long-handled garden tools that you want. Use old hoes, rakes, shovels … whatever you have available to you. Inexpensive old garden tools are easy to find at yard sales, antique markets, or even your local thrift store.

Using round wood extension poles, which can be found at any home improvement store, as the crossbars mimics the shape of the handles on the garden tools. It won't take long for the wood to age and blend right in with the aged look of the garden tool handles. Even better, you could use the broken handles of other old garden tools as the crossbars instead.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
Old wooden long-handled garden tools of your choice (3)	Tape measure
1/4"× 3" machine screws (9)	Drill
60" wood extension poles (or upcycled handles from old garden tools) (2)	1/4" drill bit (for drilling bolt holes)
	Circular saw or handsaw
	Pliers
	Pencil
	Eye and ear protection
	Work gloves

CUT LIST: *
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Top crossbar	34"	1	Wood extension pole
Center crossbar	281/2"	1	Wood extension pole
Bottom crossbar	23"	1	Wood extension pole

* Depending on the types of gardening tools you use, you may need to make your crossbars longer or shorter. I cut mine to allow a 3" overlap on each side of the trellis.

How to Build an Upcycled Garden Tool Fan Trellis

STEP 1: Before cutting the extension poles for the crossbars, lay out your trellis pattern on the ground. Space the tools evenly, and then measure the space between them to determine the exact length of your crossbars. Cut the crossbars.

STEP 2: After cutting the crossbars, lay out your trellis pattern again, putting the garden tools over the top of the crossbars. Mark the three spots on each tool handle where it overlaps one of the crossbars. This is where you will drill the pilot holes for the bolts.

STEP 3: Drill pilot holes at each point that you marked in step 2. Each hole should be drilled all the way through both the tool handle and the crossbar.

STEP 4: Drive the bolts through the pilot holes so they go all the way through both the tool handle and the crossbar. At this point, the trellis will be very loosely attached together.

STEP 5: Carefully turn the trellis over, and hand-tighten one nut onto the end of each of the bolts. Ensure the trellis is straight, and then use the pliers to tighten each of the bolts until the trellis is completely secure.

PIPE FAN TRELLIS

A pipe fan trellis may sound complicated, but this design is extremely easy to build using common materials that can be found at any home improvement store. It's also a very inexpensive project, which is fantastic, especially if you need to build several trellises for your garden.

If you're looking for a versatile trellis, this one is the perfect size for use along the side of a house, shed, or fence, or it could be added to a raised garden bed. The size is just right for vining crops such as peas and cucumbers and is equally useful for supporting your tomato plants.

This simple fan trellis design looks great as is, or it could be painted to give it even more character. Stain or paint the wood crossbars using a bold, dark color for a striking contrast against the silver pipes. Or spray the entire trellis with bright paint to add a fun pop of color to your garden.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
10'-long 1/2" EMT conduit (2)	Saw
1 × 2 × 8' board (1)	Tape measure
1/2" 2-hole EMT straps (15)	Pipe cutter
#8 × 3/8" sheet metal screws (30)	Drill and drill bit
	Pencil
	Eye and ear protection
	Work gloves

CUT LIST:
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Long vertical bars	5'	2	EMT conduit
Short vertical bars	40"	3	EMT conduit
Top crossbar	1 × 2 × 3'	1	1 × 2 board
Middle crossbar	1 × 2 × 21/2'	1	1 × 2 board
Bottom crossbar	1 × 2 × 2'	1	1 × 2 board

Cutting Metal Pipes

Don't be intimidated by the thought of cutting metal pipes or worried that you'll have to buy an expensive piece of equipment to get the job done. A simple pipe-cutting tool is inexpensive to buy and will work great for any of the projects in this book.

Clamp the pipe onto a workbench or table to hold it in place for easier cutting. Support the end of the pipe with a sawhorse (or have a friend hold it for you) while you make the cuts.

How to Build a Pipe Fan Trellis

STEP 1: Measure the lengths of pipe, and then use the pipe cutter to cut them to size. EMT conduit is fairly thick, so you may need to clamp the pipe down to your table or workbench to hold it in place in order to cut it.

STEP 2: Measure and cut the wood for the horizontal crossbars.

STEP 3: Measure and mark the places on the wood crossbars where the pipes will cross.

STEP 4: Starting in the center of the trellis, line up one of the 40" pipes vertically over the marks you made on the crossbars. Pop a pipe strap onto the pipe, centering it over the crossbar. Drill pilot holes into the wood through the holes in the pipe strap. Drive sheet metal screws into the pilot holes to secure the pipe onto the crossbar.

STEP 5: Repeat step 4 with the remaining pipes, securing each of the pipe straps tightly to ensure the trellis is completely secure.

Tip:

For the three shortest pipes, start with securing the pipe strap at the bottom of the trellis, and work your way up. The bottom of each of the three shorter pipes should sit flush over the bottom crossbar.

COPPER TRELLIS

Copper is a wonderful material to work with, and it looks gorgeous in the garden too. This trellis was designed to take up lots of space and add privacy to a backyard sitting area or patio. I designed this trellis to look beautiful not only when it's covered in vines but also while standing on its own during the off-season.

The copper pipe frame creates a sturdy base, and this trellis is big enough to handle larger crops such as pole beans, cucumbers, or squash. Once you build the frame, you could leave it as is, or add a pattern to it as I did here. Follow the instructions to use my pattern design, or use your creativity to come up with your own design.

Keep in mind that copper will naturally develop a patina as it ages, so your shiny copper trellis will eventually turn brown, and then green, over time. Of course, this isn't a bad thing. Patinated copper is the look everyone is striving for these days—meaning your DIY copper trellis will eventually make your neighbors green with patina envy.

MATERIALS:	TOOLS:
10' long 1/2" copper pipes (3)	Pipe cutter
1/2" copper 90-degree elbow connectors (2)	Super glue (Gorilla Glue® is recommended)
1/2" copper tee connectors (7)	Cable-cutting tool
50' 6AWG solid bare copper wire	Pliers
18-gauge copper wire	Wire cutters
Zip ties (optional)	Tape measure
	Work gloves
	Eye protection

CUT LIST (PIPES FOR FRAME):
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Vertical bars	16"	6	Copper pipe
Legs	2'	3	Copper pipe
Top and middle horizontal bars	4'	3	Copper pipe
Bottom horizontal bars	233/4"	2	Copper pipe
CUT LIST (WIRE FOR PATTERN): *
PART	DIMENSIONS	PIECES	MATERIAL
Ovals	50"	8	Bare copper wire
Long lines	20"	9	Bare copper wire
Short lines	10"	2	Bare copper wire

* If you decide you want to design your own pattern, then the lengths and sizes of bare wire will vary. You will need less bare wire for a simpler pattern, but you may need more bare wire depending on how intricate your pattern design is. Sketch out your design ideas on paper before cutting any of the bare wire.

How to Build a Copper Trellis

STEP 1: Use a pipe cutter to cut the copper pipes to size. Copper is a very soft metal, and it's fairly easy to cut the pipe without any extra help. However, you may find it easier to clamp the pipe to a table or workbench to hold it in place as you're cutting it.

STEP 2: Lay the pipes for the frame flat on the ground, and assemble all the pipes together using the pipe connectors. The connectors will slide easily onto the ends of the pipes, and most of them will fit very loosely.

STEP 3: To tightly secure the frame together, glue the connectors onto each of the pipes. After adding the glue to the end of the pipe, press the pipe firmly into the connector to ensure a tight hold. Allow the glue to dry completely before moving the frame.

STEP 4: Cut the bare wire pieces using a cable-cutting tool, then lay out the pattern and mark the frame for placement. To attach the straight pieces to the frame, use pliers to create a 1" bend at each end of each of the 20" straight bare wire pieces so the bends line up with the frame. To create the oval pieces, wrap the bare wire around a five-gallon bucket or similar object to make smoother bends. Use zip ties to temporarily attach your entire pattern to the frame before moving on to step 5. This will make it easier to wrap the pieces with wire and glue the pattern onto the frame.

STEP 5: Attach the entire design to the frame using the 18-gauge wire at each point where the pattern touches the frame. Once your pattern is fully secured with the copper wire, dab some glue over the copper wire and the bare wire to adhere your design securely on the frame. Allow the glue to dry completely before moving the trellis.