Eggplant is cooked and cherished throughout Asia, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East, and no wonder: it has wonderful versatility, whether miso-glazed, crumbed and fried, or smoked over hot embers and pounded to a creamy paste. It has long been admired by vegetarians, who are lured by its substantial “meaty” texture, its ability to both absorb and contribute flavor, its mushroom-like qualities. And many an erstwhile carnivore has subsisted on eggplant sandwiches, cutlets, and pasta sauces during times of scarcity or impoverishment.
At the height of the season, eggplants arrive at the market in all shapes, sizes, and hues. Some are pear-shaped, fat, shiny, and black; others are snakelike, a foot long and deep purple or shocking bright fuchsia. There are eggplant skins with magenta and white striations (one such variety is called Graffiti). Some are pale violet, some pale green, some mustard yellow. Some are truly egg-shaped and ivory white. And there are tiny round pumpkin-colored ones no bigger than an inch in diameter, used for curries or pickles.
The large purple-black generic eggplant stocked at most supermarkets will get the job done, but smaller ones will likely be sweeter and contain fewer seeds. In any case, with whatever type of eggplant you choose, unblemished, firm, and shiny is what you want; this signifies freshness.
Japanese Eggplant with Miso
Japanese eggplants are long and slender. I like them split down the middle and smeared with a nutty, salty miso glaze, then baked until soft and nicely browned. The flavors play well together, like old friends.
4 small Japanese eggplants
Salt
1 tablespoon white miso
1 tablespoon red miso
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon mirin
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon sugar
2 large egg yolks
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Toasted sesame seeds for garnish
Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Split the eggplants lengthwise in half, leaving the stems attached. Sprinkle the cut sides lightly with salt and place cut side up on a baking sheet.
In a small bowl, stir together the white miso, red miso, sake, mirin, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, sugar, and egg yolks. The mixture will have the consistency of a thick batter. Spread it generously over the entire surface of the cut sides of the eggplants.
Place the pan on the top rack of the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the eggplants are tender and the miso coating has begun to bubble and brown. If necessary, run the eggplants under the broiler for a minute or two. Garnish with the scallions and toasted sesame seeds. Makes 4 to 6 servings
Italian Grilled Eggplant
While this is one of the simplest, most direct of recipes, it couldn’t be more satisfying. The catch, if there is one, is that you want eggplants that are firm and on the smaller side, as these will have sweeter flesh and be less likely to have big fully formed seeds. Look for them at farmers’ markets and Asian produce stands.
Making this dish is just a matter of painting eggplant slices (not too thick, not too thin) with olive oil, seasoning them with salt and pepper, and grilling them over coals until golden. The fire beneath them should be brisk so the slices really sear and brown beautifully. Alternatively, use a stovetop grill pan. The heat should be such that it takes no more than 2 minutes per side. Serve these as a first course with a squeeze of lemon and finely chopped basil and parsley.
Fried Eggplant “Sandwich”
To make these sandwiched treats, peel an eggplant and slice into ½-inch rounds. Season the slices with salt and pepper, then coat them lightly in flour, dip in beaten egg, and coat in bread crumbs. Fry them gently in ½ inch of olive oil, turning once. Remove and drain briefly on paper towels.
Tuck a bit of mozzarella between pairs of fried slices and place on a baking sheet. Pop the sandwiches into a hot oven for a few minutes to melt the cheese. Sprinkle with salt and crushed red pepper. Eat the sandwiches while hot, holding them in a napkin. Or, for a fancier rendition, spoon some Fast Fresh Tomato Sauce onto each plate, set a sandwich on top, and sprinkle with grated Parmesan and chopped basil.
Smoky Turkish Eggplant
I call this Turkish delight (though I’m also a fan of leokum, the famous Turkish sweet). Start by placing eggplants directly over a gas flame or hot coals and mercilessly charring the skin all over. This traditional technique guarantees creamy, slightly smoky eggplant flesh, perfect when paired with tahini, garlic, and yogurt for a savory spread. Olive oil, cumin, cayenne, and lemon will take care of the rest. Serve with pita or crudités.
3 medium eggplants (about 2 pounds)
Salt
½ cup plain yogurt
¼ cup tahini
2 tablespoons lemon juice
4 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste with a pinch of salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped mint
Warm pitas, for serving
Pierce the eggplants in several places with a fork or skewer. Place each one directly on a stovetop burner turned to high (or cook over a bed of hot coals) and allow the skin to blister and char, turning the eggplants with tongs, until the entire surface is blackened and they are completely soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Set aside until cool enough to handle.
Slice the eggplants lengthwise in half and lay cut side down on the cutting board. With a paring knife or your fingers, carefully remove and discard the burnt skin. Do not rinse the eggplant flesh—a few bits of remaining char are fine. Salt the flesh lightly, transfer to a colander, and let drain for 5 to 10 minutes, then squeeze gently to get rid of extraneous juices.
Transfer the eggplant to a food processor or blender. Add ½ teaspoon salt, the yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and cayenne and blitz to obtain a creamy puree. (Or, for a more rustic spread, first chop the eggplant and then beat the mixture with a sturdy whisk instead.) Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the mixture to a shallow serving bowl. Just before serving, stir together the cumin and olive oil and drizzle over the surface of the spread. Sprinkle with the paprika, parsley, and mint. Serve with warm pitas, cut into triangles. Makes about 3 cups