David Tanis Market Cooking

I know I’m not the only one who grew up on waterlogged canned beets, which definitely predisposes a person to dislike the vegetable. The vacuum-packed, shelf-stable cooked beets are not much better, flavor-wise. But oh, the joy of just-pulled garden beets! Sweet and earthy, there really is no comparison. It’s a shame they don’t sell already-cooked beets at farmers’ markets here as they do in France, a great convenience. Here we just have to roast them to perfection at home. A little water in a covered roasting pan essentially steams them, so you can peel off the skins with ease. You’ll know they’re done just as you do with potatoes, when a paring knife slips in easily. There’s nothing wrong with boiling (peeled) beets in salted water, but roasting them skin-on imparts a more robust flavor. I find it very convenient to roast and peel a half dozen beets to keep on hand in the fridge, to use one way or another throughout the week. When tomatoes are out of season, beets are a natural addition to green salads—and a salad of sweet beets and ripe tomatoes is a winning combination.

Now consider the myriad beet possibilities: sliced yellow beets in a mustard-infused vinaigrette; ice-cold beet-enhanced gazpacho or a cool glass of creamy pink borscht; hot roasted beets dressed up like baked potatoes. Or a steaming bowl of beet-stained vegetables bobbing in a rich beef broth.

Spicy Beet Gazpacho

A perfect chilled soup for a summer’s night, made with raw beets, tomato, and cucumber.

Refreshing and fortifying just like traditional gazpacho, a pitcher of beet gazpacho can be perfect for hot summer nights. You might wonder whether to call it a chilled soup or a vegetable smoothie. Spicy and nutritious, it may resemble cold borscht, but to me it’s got Spanish written all over it.

Put everything but the herbs (and lime wedges) in a blender and blend at high speed to make a smooth puree. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then whizz once more. Strain the soup and ladle into bowls. Sprinkle with chopped herbs and serve with lime wedges. Makes 4 to 6 servings

Beets Roasted in Their Skin

I sometimes like to treat beets like baked potatoes, roasting them whole, skin on, and serving them hot with “all the fixings.”

Choose small to medium-sized beets and wash them well. Trim them, but leave a bit of root and stem so they look as natural as possible. Put them in a pie pan with ½ inch of water and a thyme sprig, cover tightly with foil, and pop them into a hot oven. They’ll take at least an hour at 375 degrees, sometimes a bit longer. Serve the beets with their skin on, split top to bottom. Lavish them with butter, crème fraîche, and snipped chives, and finish with some fleur de sel and a twist of the pepper mill. You can upgrade the presentation with a dab of caviar or trout roe for a special occasion.

Yellow Beet Salad with Mustard Seeds

When roasting beets, always throw in a few extra so you’ll have enough for several days of salads.

If you’re beet-phobic because you fear the inevitable crimson stains, try golden yellow beets instead. Yellow beets, nearing orange on the color spectrum, are slightly milder than red ones and make a beautiful winter salad. First cook your beets (see Beets Roasted in Their Skin, opposite). While they’re in the oven, make a vinaigrette with Dijon mustard, grated horseradish, lemon juice, and a mild vegetable oil.

Cool, peel, and slice the beets. Season with salt and toss with the dressing to coat well. Roast a teaspoon of black mustard seeds or kalonji (nigella) seeds in a tiny bit of oil in a small pan over medium-high heat. When the seeds begin to pop, pour the contents of the pan over the dressed beets. Serve at room temperature, with a spoonful of thick yogurt on the side if you wish.