A parsnip’s flavor is beguiling. A touch of carrot, a hint of chestnut, a whiff of winter squash, and its own unique aroma. The ancient Romans revered the parsnip, and so do I. It’s a great vegetable to keep in supply throughout the colder months, useful for soups, gratins, or stews—not to mention mashed parsnips.
The best time to eat parsnips is late fall, winter, and early spring, when they are at their sweetest. Browned in a roasting pan is the easiest and perhaps best way to cook them, but there are dozens of others. Their innate sweetness can also be used to advantage in modern desserts. My friend Ignacio uses parsnip puree (a little salt too) to make ice cream at his restaurant Estela in New York City. The result is remarkable. You can also use parsnips to replace pumpkin for a praiseworthy (and, I think, more seductive) Thanksgiving pie.
Pan-Roasted Parsnips with Coriander
These parsnips are browned on the top of the stove in a wide cast-iron skillet, which concentrates their sweetness as they cook. They can be cooked several hours in advance and reheated before serving.
Salt
2 pounds parsnips, not too large
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
½ teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
Pinch of cayenne
1 small bunch cilantro
Sea salt for finishing
1 lime, halved
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Peel the parsnips, quarter lengthwise, and remove the tough cores, then cut into 3-inch batons. Add to the boiling water and simmer for 5 minutes, or until cooked through but still firm. Drain and spread on a baking sheet to cool.
Set a wide cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and melt the butter in it. Add the onion and cook until softened and beginning to color, 5 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and add the ground coriander and cayenne. Add the parsnips and cook, stirring every few minutes with a wooden spoon, until they are browned here and there and fork-tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish.
Roughly chop the cilantro, both leaves and tender stems, and scatter over the parsnips. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and squeeze the lime juice over the top. Makes 4 to 6 servings
Parsnip Soup
Make a soup by adding some chicken or vegetable broth once the parsnips have browned. Simmer for a few minutes, then puree. Garnish as above, with chopped cilantro and lime juice.
Parsnips with Turmeric and Feta
These baked parsnips are savory and belly-warming, and colorful to boot. It’s an unusual combination of ingredients that works quite wonderfully.
Salt and pepper
3 pounds parsnips
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 cups heavy cream
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
Small pinch of cayenne
4 ounces feta, crumbled
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Peel the parsnips and quarter lengthwise. With a paring knife, remove the tough central cores. Cut the parsnips into 3-inch batons. Parboil for 2 minutes, then drain and spread out on a baking sheet to cool briefly.
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Use the softened butter to butter a 9-by-12-inch earthenware baking dish. Arrange the parsnips in the dish.
Whisk together the cream, turmeric, and cumin. Season with salt and pepper and the cayenne. Pour the cream mixture over the parsnips and sprinkle with the feta. Bake the parsnips for about 30 minutes, until bubbling and nicely browned. Makes 4 to 6 servings
Use a paring knife to remove the tough cores of large parsnips.
Parsnip Mash with Sesame Oil
Parsnips are good mashed, and unlike mashed potatoes, they don’t require a lot of butter and cream. I often veer toward sesame oil and dried red chiles to offset their sweetness. Like mashed winter squash, parsnip mash is a perfect side dish for nearly any kind of cold-weather meal. For a more Italianate mash, substitute olive oil for the sesame oil and crushed red pepper for the whole chiles. Add lemon juice to taste.
Peel 2 pounds medium parsnips and quarter lengthwise. With a paring knife, remove the tough central cores. Cut into rough 1-inch chunks and transfer to a saucepan. Add water just to cover and a good pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes, until the parsnips are very tender. Drain and keep warm.
Put 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil in a small skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add 2 dried red chile peppers and 2 smashed garlic cloves and let them sizzle for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Pour over the parsnips and mash roughly with the back of a large spoon. Adjust the salt to taste, transfer to a warm serving dish, and sprinkle with scallions. Makes 4 servings