There is a vast and remarkable difference between the taste of conventional factory chicken eggs and that of those purchased at a farmers’ market. Poultry management practices notwithstanding, most industrial eggs spend weeks languishing in cold storage, quite edible of course, but a far cry from what a good egg could be. Eight dollars or so for a dozen truly fresh, flavorful eggs is an indulgence well worth the price. You just have to look at the firm, bright golden yolks to know why, even before you taste them. I think of good eggs the same way I think about good chicken: “Spend more and eat less,” as Michael Pollan puts it. Which means: Eat smaller portions of better stuff and/or enjoy it less frequently. In most parts of Europe, a single egg is considered a perfect portion at breakfast—and not every day of the week, for that matter.
How to Boil an Egg
The rule with boiled eggs is don’t overdo it—greenish, dry-yolked 20-minute eggs are a sad affair. First, have your eggs at room temperature, so they won’t crack when you add them to the boiling water. Find a shallow saucepan just big enough to hold them in one layer. Fill the pan with water (though not so much that it will overflow once the eggs are added), add a generous pinch of salt, and bring the water to a full boil. Carefully lower the eggs into the boiling water, then immediately reduce the heat to a medium simmer to keep them from rattling about. Set the timer the moment the eggs go in. Have a bowl of ice water ready.
The ideal “hard-cooked” large egg has a slightly moist center and is cooked for somewhere between 8 and 10 minutes. I usually aim for exactly 9 minutes, but a bit less for a softer center and a bit longer for a firmer one. (For a soft-boiled egg, or oeuf mollet, great on a spinach salad with bacon, cook the eggs for only 3 to 4 minutes.) When the timer goes off, remove the eggs and plunge them into the cold water bath. To make peeling easier (this is a tip from Julia Child), crack the eggs all over before you submerge them in the water, which will allow water to slip between the eggs and the shells. I also find it best to peel them underwater.
Making Mayonnaise
There is no comparison between the stuff in a jar (or a squeezy tube) and a genuine, properly seasoned handmade mayonnaise.
Why ever would you not make your own mayonnaise? It’s completely baffling to me, since it is so easy to make and so divine. When I taught mayonnaise-making recently, one of the attendees asked, “Why should I do it by hand when it takes mere seconds for me to make mayonnaise with a high-speed immersion blender?” The reason: You actually learn the technique of emulsification when you make mayonnaise by hand. Besides, it’s more fun, and quieter.
2 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon lemon juice or red or white wine vinegar, or to taste
Put the egg yolks and mustard, if using, in a medium heavy bowl. Stir the yolks with a wire whisk until they thicken slightly. Slowly drizzle in the oil a teaspoon at a time while whisking in a circular motion counterclockwise, making sure the oil is thoroughly incorporated each time before adding the next teaspoon. Once the sauce begins to thicken a bit, graduate to adding the oil a tablespoon at a time, remaining vigilant to fully incorporate it each time. This is really important: Failing to do so, or adding too much oil at once, will cause the emulsion to break. (If this happens, start over with a new egg yolk, whisking in the curdled mixture as if it were oil.)
When you’ve added about 1 cup of the oil and the sauce is quite thick, thin it by whisking in a tablespoon or so of cold water. Then gradually whisk in the remaining cup of oil. Add a big pinch of salt, a little freshly ground pepper, and the lemon juice. Let the mayonnaise sit for a few minutes to allow the salt to dissolve. Taste and adjust for salt and acid. The finished mayonnaise should have the texture of softly whipped cream—it shouldn’t be stiff or oily. Thin with more cold water as necessary. Makes about 2½ cups
Notes: For a milder-tasting mayonnaise, use half olive oil and half vegetable oil. You can also make mayonnaise in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment or with a handheld mixer. Or make it in a food processor or with an immersion blender (for the method, see here). Homemade mayonnaise keeps for a week, refrigerated, but a little less if it contains garlic or herbs, which lose their fresh flavor.
French Bistro Oeuf Mayonnaise
The finished mayonnaise has the texture of softly whipped cream.
On a bistro menu, oeuf mayonnaise means “hard-cooked egg with mayonnaise,” and that’s exactly what it is—no more, no less. It’s always served in a rather unadorned fashion, just the halved egg with a spoonful of freshly made mayonnaise and a lettuce leaf. One caveat: Good egg, real mayonnaise. Once upon a time, it was a beloved bistro standard for a bite with a glass of wine or a dependable first course, and there are a few spots in Paris that still serve it—even a club of die-hard oeuf mayonnaise lovers.
Olive Oil–Fried Eggs with Sizzled Garlic
Though I’m inclined to cook scrambled eggs in butter, for a fried egg, it’s got to be olive oil. My preferred method? Put a cast-iron skillet over medium heat and add a tablespoon of olive oil (if you’re cooking more than one egg, use a tablespoon of oil per egg). When the oil is hot, crack the egg and slip it carefully into the pan. Season generously with salt and black pepper and add a pinch of crushed red pepper. Let the egg fry gently so it crisps and browns perfectly on the bottom and the white begins to form bubbles. When the egg is done, but with a still-runny yolk, 3 to 4 minutes, turn off the heat. Tilt the pan, and add a sliced garlic clove or two to the oil collected at the bottom edge. Let it sizzle briefly, just until fragrant but not browned, and then spoon the garlicky oil over the egg. Use a spatula to transfer the egg to a warm plate and drizzle with more of the oil. An egg like this also makes a superior sandwich or egg-on-a-roll.
As for accompaniments, a slice of toast (or Spanish Garlic Toast) is really all you need, though my Sicilian friend Angelo would add a sprinkle of dried oregano and a dash of red wine vinegar to his egg. Fried eggs are good with cooked vegetables too—asparagus, artichokes, and spinach are all great springtime options. During tomato season, thick ripe slices are what you want. And nearly any kind of potato will make a fried egg’s day.