Two Super-Simple Italian Pastas

Spaghettata di mezzanotte, midnight spaghetti, is a marvelous thing. You (or you and a companion or two) have been out on the town, or working late, and suddenly you’re famished. The idea is to make a simple delicious pasta at home out of practically nothing. Just ingredients you would always have on hand—like garlic, anchovies, cheese, and olive oil. A little hot pepper. And that’s it. It’s utterly satisfying—a perfect there’s-nothing-in-the-cupboard meal at any time of day. There’s something kind of great (isn’t there?) about not caving and ordering in a so-so pizza.

Bare-cupboard delights: Cacio e Pepe (left) and Aglio-Olio-Peperoncino (right).

Pasta Aglio-Olio-Peperoncino

Couldn’t be simpler: extra virgin olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper. Boil ½ pound spaghetti in generously salted water until al dente. Don’t trust the timing on the package; e.g., if it says “8 minutes,” set the timer for 6. You can always cook it more, but you can’t cook it less. (And a plate of overcooked spaghetti is so sad.) While the pasta is cooking, put 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat, then add 4 minced garlic cloves and a good pinch of crushed red pepper. Cook very briefly (don’t let the garlic brown), just until fragrant, and turn off the heat. Drain the pasta when it’s al dente, reserving ½ cup or so of the cooking water. Add the spaghetti to the seasoned oil, along with a good splash of the pasta water, and toss with tongs until well coated. Sprinkle with a little sea salt and serve. Makes 2 servings

Gilding the Lily

Add chopped capers, a couple of chopped anchovy fillets, and some grated lemon zest to the oil along with the garlic. Crisp bread crumbs make a nice topping, and grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese is an option as well.

Pasta Cacio e Pepe

Cacio e pepe (literally, “cheese and pepper”) has lately achieved mythic status, which is a bit surprising considering it’s so basic. You can get it in any restaurant in Rome, but it’s really a home dish. The trick is getting the pasta to finish cooking properly in the creamy sauce, which is just pasta water, butter, and cheese. The more peppery, the better.

Cook ½ pound linguine extra al dente (this is crucial) in well-salted water. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat and add ½ teaspoon coarsely crushed black pepper. Drain the pasta and add to the pan, along with ½ cup of pasta water and a good pinch of salt. Stir constantly, keeping the liquid at a rapid simmer; the pasta will begin to wilt in the sauce and absorb liquid. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring, until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Turn off the heat, add 2 cups grated pecorino, and stir until the pasta is coated with the creamy sauce. Adjust the seasoning to taste. makes 2 servings