A good broth—from meat or vegetables, fish bones, or kelp—is something you must make from scratch. Chicken broth from a can, vegetable stock from a carton, or concentrated bouillon from a cube are convenient, but all of these are enhanced with “natural flavors” and not a little MSG-dosed dried onion and garlic. No commercial variety compares to homemade.
A broth can be as simple as water simmered briefly with garlic and herbs (see Provençal Garlic Soup). On the other end of the spectrum, you might brown meaty bones with vegetables for a rich three-hour “dark” stock. And then there’s everything in between—a quick broth made from shrimp shells, corncobs, dried mushrooms, or Parmesan rinds, or an easy two-hour chicken stock made from raw chicken backs and necks.
Take advantage of small-scale broth opportunities too—deglazing the bottom of the roasting pan for a cupful of concentrated chicken broth, saving the “liquor” from cooked greens or garbanzo beans, or hoarding any other tasty liquids until needed to intensify a sauce, soup, or stew. An ill-considered collection of scraps will not result in a flavorful broth. But used judiciously, the carcass of that roasted chicken or the mushroom stems you might have otherwise discarded can be used to make a small pot of good broth.
All-Purpose Vegetable Broth
Put 1 halved small onion, 3 or 4 scallions, 3 sliced garlic cloves, 1 chopped celery stalk, 1 chopped carrot, 1 peeled and chopped parsnip (optional), a bay leaf, 2 thyme sprigs, and 7 cups water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Skim any rising foam. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Strain. Refrigerate the broth for up to 3 days or freeze for future use. Makes 6 cups
Porcini Mushroom Broth
Put ½ cup crumbled dried porcini or other dried wild mushrooms, 1 sliced small onion, 6 chopped scallions, 1 chopped celery stalk, 1 chopped carrot, a bay leaf, and 4 cups water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain. The broth can be refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for future use. Makes 3 cups
Blond Chicken Broth
Put 3 pounds meaty chicken bones (a combination of wings, backs, and necks), 2 quartered medium onions, 2 chopped carrots, 1 chopped celery stalk, a bay leaf, 2 thyme sprigs, 2 parsley sprigs, 5 black peppercorns, and 6 quarts water in a large soup pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Skim off and discard any foam that has risen to the surface. Simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours, skimming frequently. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve and cool to room temperature. Skim the fat from the surface and use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for future use (the fat will rise to surface and congeal). Makes 4 quarts
Dark Chicken Broth
This dark broth will be slightly jelled after chilling and a rich brown color. Follow the instructions for Blond Chicken Broth, but first roast the chicken, onions, carrot, and celery in a roasting pan in a 400-degree oven until quite well browned and caramelized. Transfer the roasted ingredients to a large soup pot and cover with 6 quarts water. Add 1 tablespoon tomato paste to the roasting pan, along with a little hot water, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon to dissolve any flavorful brown bits. Add these deglazed juices to the soup pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, skim, and then simmer for 2 hours, skimming often. Makes 4 quarts
Note: For a richer dark broth, substitute meaty beef shanks or turkey legs for the chicken.
Fish (or Shrimp) Broth
Put 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, 2 pounds meaty halibut bones or fish heads, rinsed of blood (or shells from 2 pounds shrimp), 1 chopped medium leek, 2 thyme sprigs, and a bay leaf in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium-high heat. Let sizzle for a few minutes, stirring; take care not to let the mixture brown. Add 7 cups water and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to just under a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the broth steep for 30 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve. It can be refrigerated for several hours, but it is best used the same day. Makes 6 cups
Dashi
Put ½ ounce kombu (kelp) in a nonreactive saucepan, add 4 cups cold water, and let soak for at least 15 minutes. Put the pan on the stove over medium-high heat. When the water is just about to simmer, turn off the heat and add ½ cup katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes). Let steep for 10 minutes, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve. (The dashi can be prepared up to a day in advance.) Makes 4 cups
Note: Dashi can be used for simmering vegetables or for making miso soup.