seeds.ai

Chapter 11: Getting Things Started

Every plant has its beginning. From seed to seed, you will need to take many steps to get the seeds you have chosen for your garden to grow, blossom, and produce seeds for years to come. You can collect seed from the plants you already have in the ground or those you buy or start from seed yourself. Once you have the seeds you want to grow in hand, you will need a variety of techniques to help them produce the dried pods, plumes, and heads of seeds that will produce the next year’s garden. This chapter explores the various methods for getting your seeds off to the right start, beginning with preparing the seed to go into the soil. Then you will learn how to protect them at their early, vulnerable stages and how to move them to where they will finish out their lives and deliver your seed harvest to you.

Seed Scarification

Scarification is altering the seed coat to allow air and water into the seed, which initiates germination. Many perennials and woody plant seeds cannot absorb water through their seed coats. Others have seed coats that do not allow oxygen and other gases to pass through, and the seed produces these gases as it metabolizes its energy stores and required to germinate. Though some seed coats eventually decompose enough to germinate on their own, scarification can speed germination, putting the plant on the gardener’s timeline.

There are several methods of scarification: mechanical filing, abrasion with sandpaper, boiling the seed in water, or chemical degradation with a concentrated sulfuric acid compound, which is generally done by commercial growers on a large scale and not usually required by the home gardener. Scarification should be conducted carefully to avoid damaging the internal tissues of a seed. Each type of seed will have suggested best methods for their individual scarification, and you should always check with the producers or growers to determine which to use. What follows is a brief description of the two scarification methods home gardeners generally use.

Seed Stratification

The seeds that you extract from the fruit of temperate zone fruit trees, as well as many flowers, need to pass through a period of colder temperatures. During this cold period, the seeds complete critical stages of growth needed to germinate. When seeds are planted in the fall and grow outdoors, they are naturally subjected to the cold temperatures that occur during the winter months before they germinate. If you plan to bypass the fall planting and plant inside in the early spring or outside after frost (or even after storing them for a couple years), you will need to artificially reproduce the cold conditions for the seeds. The process for creating these cold conditions is called stratification.

Essentially, you will be fooling your seeds into thinking that it is time for them to germinate but without having to go through the usual lengthy procedure that would have to take place in nature. To do this:

Starting Outdoors

Germination_Of_Seed.ai

Germination of a seed

Depending on the part of the country in which you live, you can set up a seed nursery, either indoors or out. The tropical climate in the southernmost parts of the United States makes it possible to take your seeds from the germination stage to mature plants while being kept entirely outside during that time period. Those in northern climates must start seeds indoors, waiting for frost dangers to pass before making the transplanting transition to the outdoors. Even if you live in the more tropical zones and are able to start your seeds outdoors, bear in mind that some sort of protection from the elements will still be necessary during the crucial germination phase and while the plants are still tender. Germination occurs when the outer covering of the seed cracks open so the embryonic plant that is within the seed can send the root of the plant deeper into the soil. This is also when the upper part of the plant breaks the surface of the soil. Due to the fragility of the new seedlings, it is important that they are not drowned and crushed by a sudden downpour, or burned by a too hot sun.

The United States Department of Agriculture has divided the United States into 11 different climate zones. Using average low winter temperatures as a guide, each zone is 10 degrees Fahrenheit colder or warmer than the one next to it. Each gardening zone of the country has its own criteria for when to plant. While it is possible to deviate from these rules, remember that these guidelines are there to help you to avoid losing any plants due to exposure to temperatures that are too cold or the lingering possibility of frost, especially in the northern regions. Following these zone paradigms will help ensure that all your plants have every chance to grow and develop to the best of their ability.

Table 11: Chart of Gardening Zones for North America

Zone

Fahrenheit

Celsius

Example Cities

1

Below -50

Below -45.6

Fairbanks, AK; Resolute, Northwest Territories (CAN)

2a

-50 to -45

-42.8 to -45.5

Prudhoe Bay, AK; Flin Flon, Manitoba (CAN)

2b

-45 to -40

-40.0 to -42.7

Unalakleet, AK; Pinecreek, MN

3a

-40 to -35

-37.3 to -39.9

International Falls, MN; St. Michael, AK

3b

-35 to -30

-34.5 to -37.2

Tomahawk, WI; Sidney, MT

4a

-30 to -25

-31.7 to -34.4

Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN; Lewistown, MT

4b

-25 to -20

-28.9 to -31.6

Northwood, IA; Nebraska

5a

-20 to -15

-26.2 to -28.8

Des Moines, IA; Illinois

5b

-15 to -10

-23.4 to -26.1

Columbia, MO; Mansfield, PA

6a

-10 to -5

-20.6 to -23.3

St. Louis, MO; Lebanon, PA

6b

-5 to 0

-17.8 to -20.5

McMinnville, TN; Branson, MO

7a

0 to 5

-15.0 to -17.7

Oklahoma City, OK; South Boston, VA

7b

5 to 10

-12.3 to -14.9

Little Rock, AR; Griffin, GA

8a

10 to 15

-9.5 to -12.2

Tifton, GA; Dallas, TX

8b

15 to 20

-6.7 to -9.4

Austin, TX; Gainesville, FL

9a

20 to 25

-3.9 to -6.6

Houston, TX; St. Augustine, FL

9b

25 to 30

-1.2 to -3.8

Brownsville, TX; Fort Pierce, FL

10a

30 to 35

1.6 to -1.1

Naples, FL; Victorville, CA

10b

35 to 40

4.4 to 1.7

Miami, FL; Coral Gables, FL

11

above 40

above 4.5

Honolulu, HI; Mazatlan, Mexico

While it is definitely an advantage to be able to start your seeds outdoors and to not have to sacrifice space inside, each situation has its own pros and cons. Practically every type of seed will benefit from a close watch at this stage no matter if they are started indoors or out. Plants that are started outdoors must be carefully attended to and checked periodically for any signs of distress. Temperature fluctuations can be deadly, and an unexpected thunderstorm or freeze can wreak havoc on young plants. Because they are outside, they are more susceptible to disease, insect invasion, and nightly critter raids. In order to protect your precious flats and containers against the unpredictable rigors of the outdoors, you must have a place to keep them that will offer shelter and protection.

Getting the Inside Edge

It would be wonderful to have ample space in a perfectly climate controlled environment to successfully produce a crop of perfect seeds that would become perfect plants. If you are lucky to have a sun porch, which is a room off the main part of the house that is enclosed by glass, or any room that is well lit by large windows and doors, you have the means to set up a temporary indoor greenhouse. However, unless you have a specific area of your house or garage that can be dedicated to your efforts, the reality is that for the time it takes, you will have to sacrifice a certain amount of precious indoor space.

Placing flats and containers on windowsills has always been the method of starting seeds and plants. For those with young children, pets, or even clumsy spouses or roommates, this situation could present problems like accidental spills. One misplaced elbow or bump of a tail and your seeds and their containers and soil will become nothing more than a mess of organic matter to throw on the compost heap. There is no way to locate and separate out tiny seeds that get knocked over and mixed up with others.

There is a more suitable (and safer) way to start plants indoors, if you have the room. Small tables, or even makeshift tables composed of pieces of plywood stretched across two sawhorses, can be placed in front of those windowsills to provide a better way to get the same light with more space. This also gives you a slightly more secure location, eliminating some of the concern about the animals or kids knocking over the various containers. As long as you keep in mind that it is only a temporary and seasonal thing, it should not put too much of a crimp in the household routine.

Seeing Things in the Right Light

While some seeds demand bright light for germination, others do better if they are covered or kept in the dark until they have popped through the surface of the soil. Most vegetable seeds have been shown to perform just as well either way, but some flower seeds need darkness to germinate. If you are germinating several varieties of seeds in one place at the same time, you can use sheets of newspaper to cover the flats of seeds that need darkness during the daylight hours, or for the hours that you are administering artificial light. This allows all the flats to reach the transplanting stage and be ready to go outdoors at approximately the same time.

In the same respect, because they are living, breathing organisms, plants need their rest. Because photosynthesis only occurs during daylight hours, a plant’s metabolic systems slow down during the hours of darkness. However, when it is dark, plants are still growing, and the leaves are producing carbohydrates, which are the main ingredient in the growth process. Ideally, for most plants requiring light for germination, aim to expose the flats to approximately 16 hours of light, natural or otherwise, during a 24-hour period. If you are starting out in early spring, the shorter daylight hours and the implications from this guideline necessitate providing as much natural daylight as is possible and even possibly supplementing with a few hours of fluorescent light, if you have the equipment to do so.

The following seeds germinate better in darkness:

These seeds can germinate in either lightness or darkness:

Until the seeds have broken the surface of the soil mix, the soil should be misted at least once every day with distilled water until it feels moist to the touch. Once the seeds have sprouted and have begun to grow, they should be slowly and gently watered each day. Be careful not to overwater, as this is an easy mistake to make and one of the quickest ways to potentially cause the germinating seeds to grow moldy or rot before they have a chance to push through the soil.

Other Indoor Alternatives

If space limitations or the habits of your family and pets do not allow you to put your flats and containers in front of the windows, there are countless alternatives. Any place that will accommodate as many tables or sawhorses as it takes to hold the containers will suffice. As long as you have a way to hang a fluorescent light or two over those same tables in the basement or any other out of the way spot, you can make room for your trays of newly planted seeds that will hopefully germinate into healthy seedlings, which is the term for the first young plants that sprout. Some clever gardeners have been known to clear off shelves in the pantry for their flats of sprouting seeds or to keep them in the bathtub of a rarely used guest bathroom. Gardeners know only too well that necessity is the mother of invention.

Image213339.tif

Tray of seedlings

Scientifically speaking, the term “room temperature” refers to a range of temperatures from 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit, as determined by the United States Metric Association. The majority of American homes in the winter and cooler months fall in the lower half of this range. These temperatures are warm enough for most seeds to germinate and mature far enough to be transplanted. Seeds generally prefer warm conditions to germinate, so if you are planning to start seeds indoors, the warmer the temperature, the better (74 to 77 degrees). If you keep a very cool home, the germination process can be helped along considerably if the soil temperature of your flats is artificially raised to be higher than the temperature in which you yourself feel comfortable. If possible, keep a space heater close by the flats and containers to bring the air temperature up because this will shorten the length of time it takes for the seeds to sprout. It is important to remember to provide the proper amount of light, consistent temperatures, good ventilation, and adequate moisture (particularly if using artificial heating processes), which will give your seeds the conditions they need to germinate and flourish.

Once they have sprouted and the dangers you are avoiding by growing them indoors (freezing, harsh weather, or predators) have passed, your plants are going to be ready to transplant outdoors. The next chapter covers that process in depth, but generally, you will be ready to do so within two to three weeks.

Part of the appeal of gardening is that it is such a basic, primal activity. You do not really need a lot of fancy equipment to garden. Some of the most elementary items used in gardening have been around a long time, and they serve their purpose just fine. In that regard, greenhouses, cold frames, and garden cloches are all simplistic, yet highly effective, tools for the gardener who needs to offer some extra protection to his or her plants at any specific time.

Gardeners in the northern zones (from zones 5 to 1) will find more use for cold frames and cloches than those that garden in the zones 6 to 11. This is not to say that southern gardeners cannot enjoy the benefits of using them, but it is more likely that a gardener in Iowa would need a cold frame more than someone in Florida. A greenhouse, on the other hand, is an item that any serious gardener in any zone would love to have.

If you ask a serious gardener what is at the top of his or her gardening wish list, the most likely answer you will get is some sort of a greenhouse. Whether you have an enormous garden or just a small collection of containers on a patio, as a gardener, you might still dream of being able to walk up and down and putter among those tables of every type of plant imaginable. A greenhouse gives the gardener ultimate control over the plants that he or she can grow. The climate in a greenhouse can be artificially controlled to bring the temperature up to the tropical conditions necessary for year-round orchid cultivation, or it can be brought down to the cool temperatures that are desired for seed germination and seedling maintenance. In many instances, the only way some gardeners can enjoy their hobby is within the confines of a greenhouse. This is especially true for those who do not have access to any other environment or those who prefer to garden indoors.

Greenhouses can be as small as a 3-foot by 3-foot plastic terrarium, able to hold just a few specimens, or they can be full size glass structures, tall enough and with enough room within to support trees and shrubs. There is a wide diversity among the available types of greenhouses. Regardless the size, greenhouses are a suitable alternative to starting your seeds outdoors. In addition to simulating the appropriate climate for germination, you can lengthen the growing season and get a head start by starting seedlings inside a greenhouse well before they would be able to be started outdoors. This is exceptionally useful in regions with short growing seasons and can even increase the variety of plants a gardener can grow. Say, for example, a plant takes 28 warm-weather weeks to produce a fruit, but you only get 24 warm weather weeks in your region. Starting in a greenhouse and transplanting in about the fifth week will give you the right conditions to get fruit from the plant that would otherwise give you none.

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