Bull Canyon Provincial Park is between Williams Lake and Bella Coola.
Steeped in the history of the gold rush and covering an area of over 100,000 square kilometres, the Cariboo region has campgrounds situated off Highway 97 north of Cache Creek to Prince George. This section of road is known as the Gold Rush Trail after the pioneers who travelled it in search of the precious metal. Today, many buildings and historical markers recount the days of this original wagon road built in 1860. Campgrounds are also found on minor roads off this major route. The Cariboo is characterized by rolling hills, grasslands, over 8,000 lakes and numerous rivers stretching from the foothills of the Rockies to the Pacific coast. Recently the area has become known for its many guest ranches and for being “cowboy country,” so go and ride ’em, cowboy!
Bull Canyon Provincial Park is between Williams Lake and Bella Coola.
Location
The people who once walked the land around Big Bar Lake were First Nations hunters, cowboys, cattle rustlers and gold prospectors. According to local legends, their ghosts can often be seen and heard, so be attentive when you stay here. Big Bar Lake is on the southern edge of the Fraser Plateau, a landscape formed millions of years ago by debris left by glaciers. Evidence of the ice age can be seen west of the lake, where gravel eskers remain; much of the topography owes its development to this geological period. To reach Big Bar Lake, drive 8 kilometres north of Clinton on Highway 97 and then take a gravel road west for 34 kilometres to the park itself. The nearest services can be found at 70 Mile House.
Facilities
The 332-hectare park has two campgrounds with a total of 46 spots accommodating every size of recreational vehicle. Lakeside’s 25 sites overlook the lake, and 15 are right on the lakeshore, while the Upper campground’s larger sites are located in the forest above the lake. The facilities are basic (fire pits, picnic tables, drinking water, pit toilets). Reservations are accepted.
Recreational activities
A naturalist’s delight, this area is characterized by forests of lodgepole pine and spruce providing an excellent habitat for wildlife, including mule deer, black bears (which we saw while travelling here), cougars, lynx, marmots and snowshoe hares. Easy access to the lake and a boat launch means boating and fishing are possible. The lake is stocked annually with rainbow trout, some rumoured to be as heavy as 3 kilograms. Big Bar Lake is a gorgeous body of water that is also ideal for swimming: crystal-clear water, quite warm and no reeds. Waterskiing is not permitted and there is a speed limit for boats. A 3.5-kilometre trail provides excellent waterfowl and birdwatching, which is facilitated by a water-control structure built by Ducks Unlimited to encourage nesting. Longer hikes are also possible. There is a children’s playground in the day-use area.
Additional information
Big Bar Lake Provincial Park is in an area of rolling hills originally settled by the Salish First Nation. Today, it’s known as ranch country, and trail rides can be arranged through the numerous guest ranches located in the area. These ranches operate year-round and also offer riding lessons, pack trips, gold-panning excursions and skiing. The fact that snowshoe hares are found around Big Bar Lake should forewarn you that even early in the season, beautiful warm days can turn into clear, cold nights. So act like a cowboy and remember the long johns if you’ll be camping under canvas. We stayed here in 2006 and I swam at 8:00 p.m. when the entire lake was mine. Bliss. Be warned, though, that mosquitoes affect certain areas of the park, but that problem can be avoided by changing locations.
Location
Bowron Lake Provincial Park is famous for its wilderness canoe circuit, which covers over 116 kilometres around 11 different lakes, but there’s also a vehicle-accessible campground anyone can use. The park is located 120 kilometres east of Quesnel and 30 kilometres beyond Wells, reached by taking a 27-kilometre dirt road found at the end of Highway 26. Two resorts and some stores on Bowron Lake offer a selection of services, including food and camping supplies, while a full range can be found in Wells.
Facilities
Twenty-five wooded secluded campsites suitable for vehicles and tents are located near the park entrance and start of the canoe circuit. Facilities are basic (picnic tables, fire pits, drinking water and pit toilets) and reservations are accepted. There are 54 wilderness sites located elsewhere in the 149,207-hectare park for those undertaking the canoe circuit.
Recreational activities
Near the campground, which is on the eastern shore of Bowron Lake, there is a canoe-landing dock, and it is possible to swim, canoe and fish for Dolly Varden, rainbow trout and lake char. Boat and canoe rentals are available nearby, as is a public boat launch (though powerboats are only permitted on Bowron Lake). Wildlife includes moose, deer, caribou, black and grizzly bears, and coyotes. There are bald and golden eagles, ospreys and hawks, as well as a wealth of waterfowl and songbirds. The visitor centre has an informative video about the park that is well worth watching.
Additional information
To be able to fully appreciate the beauty of Bowron Lake Provincial Park, you should spend a week or more here. The park’s reputation grows annually, both within North America and Europe; consequently, it is becoming increasingly difficult to get a canoe-circuit reservation and only a few first-come, first-served spots are offered each day. Advance planning is required if you want to canoe the circuit (in its entirety, or just the west side) and you should make a reservation by phoning 1-800-435-5622. Dogs are not permitted on the canoe circuit. This campground is a delightful place to stay in even if you’re not a canoeing enthusiast, but for those who just want to visit the area, it may be easier to stay at Barkerville, which has two private campgrounds. Wells is a neat little community where canoe-rental companies also operate, delivering canoes and kayaks to Bowron Lake for those interested in paddling the circuit or just spending a day paddling and enjoying the beauty of the area.
Location
Bull Canyon Provincial Park has a particularly beautiful setting on the Fraser Plateau by the Chilcotin River. It is an excellent overnight stop for those travelling between Williams Lake and Bella Coola along Highway 20, as it has the only provincial campground between Williams Lake and Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. This pleasantly treed 123-hectare park is found 6 kilometres west of Alexis Creek. The nearest full range of services is at Williams Lake, 122 kilometres away, but gas and basic food items can be purchased at Alexis Creek.
Facilities
Bull Canyon was given provincial-park status in 1993 and has 20 basic campsites in an open camping area overlooking the azure Chilcotin River. Facilities are rudimentary (drinking water, fire pits, picnic tables, pit toilets). There is one wheelchair-accessible pit toilet but no sani-station, and water is obtained from a pump. The campground is really quiet with only the sound of the river lulling you to sleep, as the road isn’t busy and is a little ways away from the campground.
Recreational activities
The fast-flowing Chilcotin River is suitable for fishing, canoeing and kayaking (as are the lakes in the area), but special fishing restrictions apply. Archaeological sites apparently exist in the park, but when we stayed here in 2006 we couldn’t find them. Although insects often plague this area of the province, the pleasant breeze we had while camping here meant we didn’t have any problems. There is good birdwatching and wildlife viewing, and a wonderful array of wildflowers can be found here at certain times of the year. There is a small, 2-kilometre interpretive trail in the park. This is a good picnic spot even if you don’t want to camp. In the winter, this region experiences very cold temperatures, sometimes as low as –50°C.
Additional information
While staying at another provincial park, I met a retired gentleman from Germany who had been holidaying by RV in BC for the past 10 years, and claimed to have travelled on every road other than Highway 20. The year I talked with him, he was about to undertake that journey. One of the more pleasant aspects of staying in BC provincial parks is having the opportunity to meet people from all over the world, who often give advice on travelling in the province, including which campgrounds are their favourites.
Location
This is one of BC’s newest provincial parks and labelled Category C, which means it is jointly administered with a board from the local community of Likely. As it is co-operated, the facilities it offers and the general “feel” is different from other BC Provincial Parks. The 8-hectare park is located on Quesnel Lake, 6 kilometres from Likely, which is 120 kilometres on a paved road northeast of 150 Mile House. Services are found in Likely. The campground administrator’s house is in the park.
Facilities
Camping exists for 40 parties, with sites varying in size. Besides the basics you’d expect (drinking water, picnic tables, fire pits, pit toilets), there is a sani-station but no showers. Surprisingly, firewood is provided free of charge, which means this is the only campground in BC that I know of to still offer this service!
Recreational activities
One of the major attractions here is Quesnel Lake, which is huge, and there is a boat launch in the park. Be prepared: because of the size, the lake can get quite windy. The campground provides access to short and multi-day canoe and kayaking trips. Whitewater kayaking on the adjacent Cariboo and Quesnel rivers is also an option. A good sandy beach and public dock provide excellent swimming opportunities, and fishing for rainbow trout, char and kokanee is good in the park. Some small trails can be taken along the creek and beach but these may be inaccessible if the water is too high. There is also a playground, a baseball diamond and grassy playing areas.
Additional information
I have not visited this campground, which is more than a little out of the way, but in researching it I found that the area was once a rendezvous point for trappers and fur traders, first included on Hudson’s Bay Company maps in 1832. Gold was discovered in 1858 in Cedar Creek, which runs through the park, and there is a small outdoor mining museum with old mining machinery and mock mine shafts. If you are looking for an out-of-the-way location for a while, this could be just the spot.
Location
In June 2013, this campground was closed for the season due to flooding, so if it is on your agenda, check the BC Parks website before setting out (env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks). The scenery at this 100-hectare park is quite lovely. Mount Bowman, which can be seen to the north, is, at 2,243 metres, the highest mountain in the Marble Range. Downing Provincial Park almost completely encircles Kelly Lake and is located 18 kilometres southwest of Clinton off Highway 97 on a paved road. Services are available in the quaint town of Clinton and include restaurants, a post office, a grocery store, a pub, a bakery, gas station and an ice cream store.
Facilities
There are 18 campsites on an open grassy area next to the lake, with limited space for RVs. Facilities are restricted to the basics (drinking water, picnic tables, fire pits, pit toilets), and there’s a 20-metre walk from the parking lot to the camping area. There is no sani-station and only limited wheelchair accessibility.
Recreational activities
Things to do here include fishing for rainbow trout, hiking, swimming and sunbathing on the small beach. There is a boat launch at Kelly Lake and canoeing and kayaking are possible. The nearby community of Clinton has a small museum and excellent ice cream shop and is a pleasant place to while away a few hours. The town also boasts the largest log building in BC, which is a combination hotel, pub and restaurant. It offers a really good breakfast and is a pleasant place to play pool in the evening should you decide to escape from your tent for a while.
Additional information
Located on Shuswap First Nation land, Downing Park was donated to the province by C.S. Downing in 1970, and his family still owns the adjoining property. BC Rail runs along one side of the lake, so you may be lulled to sleep by the sound of trains. If you don’t have time to stay here, this site is an ideal spot to rest, picnic and bathe, and is particularly inviting to travellers who have taken the unpaved road between Pavilion, north of Lillooet, to Clinton. Drivers should be warned that the unpaved road between Downing Park and Pavilion is at times very steep and has hairpin bends that can be nerve-racking, but Pavilion has a beautiful little church well worth a photograph.
Location
The Green Lake area was recognized as bountiful by Canada’s indigenous population many years ago; today, campers of every age continue to appreciate its bounty. Green Lake Provincial Park is situated among groves of aspen and lodgepole pine, 15 kilometres northeast of 70 Mile House off a paved road and adjacent to the 14-kilometre lake from which it takes its name. Three campgrounds are available on both sides of the lake. Information about the exact location of the campgrounds is available at the road junction 10 kilometres east of 70 Mile House. Services are available at 70 Mile House, and a store and restaurant are located at Emerald Bay.
Facilities
Each of Green Lake’s three campgrounds has something different to offer. The most popular, Arrowhead, is fairly open and relatively small, with just 16 spots, all situated on the beachfront. (Probably the best family swimming is to be found here.) The second camping area is Emerald Bay. Like Arrowhead, Emerald Bay is situated on North Green Lake Road, but it has 51 sites, several of them on the water’s edge. Sunset View, on South Green Lake Road, has 54 sites and is usually the last campground to fill up. All campsites are relatively private and situated amongst aspen trees. There is a nearby sani-station (with adjacent flush toilets) and the pit toilets at Emerald Bay and Sunset View campgrounds are wheelchair-accessible. Reservations are accepted at the Sunset View and Emerald Bay campgrounds.
Recreational activities
Boredom should not be a problem here, as there are numerous activities to entertain every age group. The lake has moderately good fishing for rainbow trout and is restocked annually. There are two boat launches (one at Sunset View, the other at the Little Arrowhead picnic site) and waterskiing is allowed, but boats and skiers should keep well away from the swimming areas. The use of powerboats means canoeing and kayaking is not popular, and the winds here can be quite strong. There are children’s playgrounds at both Emerald Bay and Sunset View, and hiking trails leading from the park. The shallow west area of the lake attracts numerous waterfowl and migratory birds and is a magnet for ornithologists. Horseshoe pits are located at each campground, but you have to bring your own horseshoes.
Additional information
Green Lake is 14 kilometres long and averages 1.5 kilometres in width. It has minimum outflow, which enables a high buildup of algae and other microorganisms. This, along with the composition of the water gives the lake its greenish tinge. BC Parks suggests using the park in the spring, when large rainbow trout spawning in the creeks attract large numbers of bald eagles, and in the fall, when the aspens turn fantastic shades of red and orange, each occurrence being quite beautiful for those with an appreciative eye.
Location
Horsefly Lake is a delightful 148-hectare provincial park set amongst an assortment of trees including western hemlock, redcedar, various types of spruce and subalpine fir. It is accessed by turning off Highway 97 at 150 Mile House and travelling 52 kilometres on paved road to Horsefly, then 13 kilometres along a good gravel road. Services at Horsefly include a café, grocery store and gas station.
Facilities
Horsefly Lake has 23 private vehicle-accessible sites in a coniferous forest, and seven walk-in tenting sites along the lakeshore. Up until recently, there were just the basic facilities (pit toilets, drinking water, picnic tables, fire pits) but coin-operated showers and laundry facilities were installed recently. One of the pit toilets is wheelchair-accessible. Reservations are accepted.
Recreational activities
There is a short hike up to a lookout above the lake, and other park trails lead to Viewland Mountain and Eureka Park; details are available at the information board at the park entrance. Anglers visit the park to fish for rainbow trout in Horsefly Lake and in the smaller adjacent lakes. There’s a boat launch so canoeing and boating are also possible, and the beach has a change room and roped-off area for swimmers. Just outside the community of Horsefly there are spawning channels for salmon, with a system of dikes for walking and viewing. The best viewing is in mid-September when the salmon are spawning, and there are often festivals that month to celebrate the return of the sockeye. There is also a horseshoe pit and basketball hoop in the day-use area.
Additional information
This area was once a centre for gold mining. The first gold in the Cariboo was discovered here in 1859, and even today some people are drawn to the area in search of gold. Horsefly was originally called Harper’s Camp after one of the early settlers, but was renamed by later pioneers when they discovered one of the area’s drawbacks. Seriously, don’t be put off by the name. Recent information supplied by the park’s administration notes that there are few biting flies in the park, and when I visited one June there were none (there were also no other campers). The park covers a considerable area, most of which is semi-wilderness and inaccessible to the visitor. More recent visits have shown this provincial park and the area to be loved by fishers.
Location
Lac la Hache means “axe lake,” and numerous stories have been advanced to explain how this name came to be. According to one, the name is based on the shape of the lake; another story holds that it gained its name when a trapper lost his axe through the frozen lake when trying to reach into the water. To local First Nations people, the lake is known as Kumatakwa, which means “chief” or “queen of the waters.” Whichever name you prefer, this is a wonderful provincial park. It’s situated 13 kilometres north of the community of Lac la Hache on Highway 97. Services can be found in Lac la Hache, and there is a small store opposite the campground, which has been open whenever I have visited or driven past.
Facilities
There are 83 campsites here and good facilities, including wheelchair-accessible flush toilets, tap water and a sani-station. All sites are large, relatively private and set in open Douglas fir and aspen woodlands. Some sites are close to the road, however, and it is possible there to hear the traffic from busy Highway 97. You can reserve campsites at this park, but when I visited in August 2013, spaces were readily available and park staff said reservations are not really necessary.
Recreational activities
Small trails lead around the park, which allow you to see and walk remnants of the historic Cariboo Wagon Road. There is an adventure playground and a self-guided interpretive trail. There is a boat launch, and the lake is popular for waterskiing, boating and fishing. Rainbow trout, kokanee and burbot can be caught here. There is a pebbly beach and excellent swimming to be had in fairly weed-free water. A change house and showers are located near the beach, which is on the other side of the highway from the campground but connected to it by a tunnel since 2004. Three kilometres north of the campground is the Cariboo Nature Park, which is an excellent location for birdwatching. Lac la Hache also claims to be BC’s longest town. Unfortunately, with the exception of some small cafés and restaurants, I find there is little in the town to attract visitors.
Additional information
I am sentimentally attached to this park, as it was the first BC provincial park I ever stayed in over 20 years ago. That time, and on the rare occasions I have had the opportunity to visit again, I have been impressed by the friendly and informative camp hosts. The lack of other provincial parks on Highway 97 coupled with this one’s good family facilities make it a popular location. The small store is a magnet for children walking to and from the lake, and during the early evening pop and candy seem to be the store’s most popular wares. Swimmer’s itch can be a problem here in July and August, and the dreaded mosquito is often around in the evenings.
Location
Looking for somewhere to camp with children? Then look no further than Ten Mile Lake Provincial Park. Situated in an area of pine and aspen forest 11 kilometres north of Quesnel on Highway 97, the park’s large campground is popular with both RVers and tenters, and it is particularly appealing for those with little ones to entertain. Services are available in Quesnel, and a small store in the park sells chips, pop, ice cream, bread, milk and other supplies.
Facilities
Ten Mile Lake has two campgrounds with a total of 107 campsites offering excellent facilities: Lakeside (61 spots) is near the lakeshore and Touring (46 slightly larger spots) is set among pine trees. Both campgrounds offer flush toilets and a pressurized water system, but Lakeside also has pay-to-use showers (coin-operated: $1.00 for four minutes) and wheelchair-accessible flush toilets. There are a number of pull-through sites and a sani-station near the park’s entrance. Reservations are accepted
Recreational activities
As is common among the larger provincial parks, a variety of leisure pursuits for both old and young are available, but 260-hectare Ten Mile Lake is particularly attractive for those with children. There is a playground and horseshoe pits, and a gently sloping beach gives swimmers easy access to the lake. There is a boat launch, and fishers can cast their lines for rainbow trout. An extensive 10-kilometre network of trails leads explorers through mixed forest; the trail to a huge beaver dam and lodge is only half a kilometre long and well worth the effort. Mountain bikes can be ridden on a number of other trails. Ducks Unlimited has placed nesting boxes in the area to encourage avian wildlife. When I visited the park, I discovered musical jam sessions taking place in the pavilion. Ten Mile Lake also has park hosts, who welcome campers, answer questions and give advice.
Additional information
At the start of the 1900s, Ten Mile Lake was a milepost for the Pacific Great Eastern Railway, evidence of which can still be seen in the day-use area. This campground is a delight, as there are numerous activities within the park itself, as well as in the immediate vicinity. The town of Quesnel, named after Jules Maurice Quesnelle, a member of Simon Fraser’s exploration party, is only a short distance away. It is rich in pioneer gold-rush history and has a museum, historical markers and, for those less interested in the past, a couple of golf courses. When we stayed here in 2004, we met Gord, the wonderful park administrator, who told me that in the summertime, he works from 5:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. When we returned two years later, he was still there offering his brilliant service. I last visited in 2013 and could not find Gord, but it was late in the season.
Location
Do not expect to explore much of Ts’yl-os (pronounced “sigh-loss”) when you visit, as this provincial park, approximately 200 kilometres from Williams Lake, is roughly the size of Prince Edward Island (233,240 hectares) and, for the most part, is a vast undeveloped wilderness. There are huge mountains, glaciers, clear blue lakes, waterfalls and meadows, many of which are inaccessible to the common camper. Ts’yl-os is accessed either from Highway 20 at Hanceville by driving 150 kilometres of rough gravel road, or from Tatla Lake via a 60-kilometre slightly better rough gravel road (which is the only option for those without a four-wheel-drive vehicle). Both routes take 4–6 hours from Williams Lake, and BC Parks actually recommends using four-wheel-drive vehicles in the park. Limited services are available at Tatla Lake.
Facilities
There are 16 campsites at the Nu Chugh Beniz site on the east side of Chilko (reached by driving in from Hanceville), and 8 “rustic” ones at the Gwa Da Ts’ih at the north end of the lake (reached by driving in from Tatla Lake). Campers staying at Nu Chugh Beniz have access to gas, propane, laundry and Internet access at the Nemiah Valley Tl’ebayi Community Centre while those staying at Gwa Da Ts’ih are close to commercial lodges, where they may find meals and basic supplies. BC Parks informed me that Gwa Da Ts’ih may be closed during the salmon season because of the threat of bears (mid-August to mid-September). Reservations aren’t accepted, and despite its away-from-it-all location, the campgrounds do get full.
Recreational activities
The most popular recreational activity here is fishing. At 50 kilometres long, Chilko Lake is the largest natural high-elevation freshwater lake in North America and has lake and rainbow trout and Dolly Varden. Other activities include hiking and wildlife viewing. BC Parks does not recommend canoeing, as the lake is frequently prone to rough conditions. For those who really want to get a feel of the place, a five-day hiking trail leads through the Yohetta Valley, Spectrum Pass and Tchaikazan Valley. (To make arrangements to undertake this route, contact Ts’yl-os Park Lodge at 1-800-487-9567.) The lodge offers a number of excursions including horseback riding, flyfishing and hunting trips.
Additional information
The park takes its name from the mountain, Mount Tatlow, which stands over 3,000 metres high. Legend tells how a man, his wife and six children watch over the people of the Tsilhqot’in First Nation and intervene when necessary. A number of private lodges operate in the area for those who want to experience the park in relative luxury.
Location
It is not just people who are attracted to this area. In salmon-spawning season, grizzly bears can often be seen fishing in the numerous streams that flow through Tweedsmuir, so be careful. When we visited, there were numerous “Beware of Bears” signs and posters with instructions for safe camping. Tweedsmuir, one of the largest parks in the province at 506,000 hectares, is named after the 15th Governor General of Canada, John Buchan, Baron Tweedsmuir of Elsfield, who travelled in the area in 1937 and was impressed by its beauty. The park is divided into north and south regions, but only the south is accessible by road. The southern section is located on Highway 20, approximately 400 kilometres west of Williams Lake and 50 kilometres east of Bella Coola (which can be reached from Vancouver Island by taking the ferry from Port Hardy). Services are found in Bella Coola. There is also a small lodge in the park.
Facilities
There are two campgrounds accessible from Highway 20: Atnarko is 28 kilometres from the eastern entrance of the park and has 24 sites set amidst a grove of old-growth Douglas fir, while the Fisheries campground is located near to Stuie, 44 kilometres from the park’s eastern entrance, and has 12 high-density open sites. Facilities at both sites are basic (picnic tables, fire pits, pit toilets, pump water). There is a sani-station near Atnarko.
Recreational activities
As one would expect in a provincial park of this size, there is a wealth of things to see and do. The park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including deer, moose, caribou, black and grizzly bears, wolves and cougars. Rainbow trout, cutthroat trout and Dolly Varden are found in the park’s many lakes and streams, while the Atnarko and Dean rivers are spawning grounds for trout and salmon. Water sports including swimming (although the water is very cold), canoeing and kayaking. There are a number of canoe circuit trips ranging in length form one to five days. The area is known as one of BC’s most outstanding for alpine hiking, and numerous trails take backpacking enthusiasts into the spectacular mountain scenery. Rustic wilderness campsites exist along these trails. For the less energetic, a number of less arduous day hikes are also available. The park is also popular for horseback riding.
Additional information
With some superb scenery and varied terrain, the South Tweedsmuir area definitely is worthy of more than an overnight stop. The area is a real delight for those who enjoy backcountry exploration. Details of all the facilities and activities available can be obtained from the park’s headquarters near the Atnarko River campground. Tweedsmuir’s two vehicle-accessible campgrounds are very much adult-oriented but ideal if you’re a serious outdoorsperson.