Moreton Island is almost entirely made up of sand, making it a haven for 4WD adventures
PARK INFORMATION
NPRSR 13 7468
SIZE
18 500 ha
LOCATION
40 km north-east of Brisbane
ACCESS
From Brisbane to Scarborough or Whyte Island near Lytton then via barge or ferry; from Pinkenba via launch; bookings essential; 4WD only on the island
PERMITS
Camping and 4WD permit required; fees apply; camping bookings essential
BEST SEASON
All seasons
VISITOR INFORMATION
Wynnum Manly (07) 3348 3524 | Brisbane (07) 3006 6290 | www.visitbrisbane.com.au
MUST SEE, MUST DO
LEARN about the island's history at the Cape Moreton Lighthouse complex
CLIMB Mount Tempest, the highest sand dune in Australia
TAKE a dip in Blue Lagoon
Regarded as the jewel of Moreton Bay's sandy islands, Moreton Island is a haven for 4WD adventurers wanting a wilderness experience that is still within easy reach of Brisbane. Here, only a two-hour barge trip from the mainland, are long sandy beaches, clear freshwater lagoons, wildflower heaths and some of the highest sand dunes in the world.
A look at the past
James Cook named 'Cape Morton' during his 1770 voyage along the east coast, thinking it was part of the mainland. In 1799, Matthew Flinders discovered that it was in fact an island, and dubbed it Moreton Island – a misspelling of Cook's original name. In 1823 two escaped convicts from New South Wales, Pamphlet and Finnegan, landed on Moreton when their open boat was wrecked offshore. Adopted by the local Quandamooka people, they were rescued on the mainland by John Oxley later the same year, when he first explored Moreton Bay and the Brisbane River.
A pilot station was set up at Bulwer in 1848, operating until its closure in 1909. Cape Moreton Lighthouse, at the island's northern tip, was built in 1857, the oldest lighthouse in Queensland and still in use today. During World War II the army established forts at Cowan Cowan and Toompani Beach, but little remains of these apart from some concrete bunkers. In the 1950s a whaling station was established, operating from 1951 to 1962. Tangalooma resort now occupies the site. In 1933, the waters surrounding Moreton and North and South Stradbroke islands were gazetted as Moreton Bay Marine Park. Moreton Island National Park was declared in 1986, taking over the Mount Tempest National Park and expanding it; today it protects some 90 per cent of the island.
Aboriginal culture
The Ngugi people, a clan belonging to the Quandamooka group, were the original inhabitants of Moreton Island, which they called Moorgumpin. Shell middens and other artefacts scattered around Moreton's coastline are evidence that the Ngugi lived here for at least 2000 years. They depended on the abundant marine life for food, eating fish, shellfish, dugong and turtle. Due to the limited development on the island, the Indigenous heritage has been well preserved and up to 330 cultural sites, including shell middens, bone fragments and stone quarries, have been recorded here.
Natural features
Apart from a few rocky headlands in the Cape Moreton area, Moreton Island is made up almost entirely of sand. Mount Tempest (280 metres) in the centre of the island is the highest sand dune in Australia. On the island's north-eastern side are several freshwater lakes, including Blue Lagoon – a window lake, formed when the water table lies at ground level. There are also some perched lakes.
Most of the 38-kilometre-long island is national park and has some lovely beaches, heathlands and wildflowers. The waters surrounding the island are protected within Moreton Bay Marine Park, so some restrictions on recreational use apply.
Native plants
The island's vegetation consists mainly of coastal heath and open forests of scribbly gum and pink bloodwood, with areas of mangrove, sedge and melaleuca swamps. The heathlands are dominated by wallum banksia, and grasstrees are dotted amid the dunes. Wildflowers appear in springtime.
Wildlife
About 190 species of birds have been recorded on Moreton Island; the bird population increases dramatically between September and April when flocks of waders visit the island, congregating in large numbers on the southern beaches, particularly around Mirapool, and on the intertidal seagrass flats offshore. Eastern curlews, little terns and grey-tailed tattlers are some of the less common species. Resident wading birds include the pied oystercatcher and red-capped plover. Lake Jabiru is frequented by black-necked storks, while the heathlands around Blue Lagoon are favoured by honeyeaters.
Nesting loggerhead and green turtles occasionally come ashore in summer. Listen for frogs in the swamplands – home to the vulnerable wallum sedge frog – and look for migrating humpback whales offshore in late winter and spring. A herd of dugong live in Moreton Bay, feeding on the seagrass beds and they are sometimes seen surfacing close to shore.
Camping and accommodation
There are five campsites on the island, all of which have extensive facilities including water and showers. Camping is also allowed at five specific camping zones located along the eastern and western beaches. Open fires are permitted in all but two of the campsites and camping areas, but gas or fuel stoves are preferred. If you do wish to light a fire, use existing sites and bring your own firewood – penalties apply for foraging in the park. Campers must be self-reliant, bringing all supplies with them; nearest supplies are available at Kooringal and Bulwer. There are a few holiday flats and houses for rent at Kooringal, Cowan Cowan and Bulwer; Tangalooma, halfway down the western side of the island, is a popular tourist resort.
Things to do
Being a sand island with no sealed roads, getting around is limited to walking and four-wheel driving. Normal traffic rules apply on the beach and designated tracks; vehicles must be registered and have a current Moreton Island Recreation Area Vehicle Access Permit.
BUSHWALKING There are many sandy walks around the island including the Mount Tempest Track (2.5 km return; 2 hours, difficult), which is a challenging, steep hike involving plenty of steps, but the panoramic views from the summit are worth the effort. Rous Battery Track (19.6 km return, 7 hours, medium difficulty), in the south of the island, leads to the ruins of an old World War II fort that once stood amid the dunes.
Telegraph Road Track (16 km return, 6 hours, difficult) winds through a variety of island environments, including open eucalypt forest and heathland, which offer good birdwatching and great wildflower displays in spring. If you just want to stretch your legs, try the Blue Lagoon Track (500 metres return, 20 minutes, easy), to the window lake’s pristine waters.
FISHING The catch off the island's beaches and headlands includes flathead, dart, bream, sand whiting, trevally and tailor. Crabs are seasonal. Size and bag limits apply; call DAFF 13 7468 or visit its website (www.daff.qld.gov.au) for details.
WATERSPORTS Blue Lagoon is ideal for swimming. North of Tangalooma, some 15 wrecks (purposely scuttled by harbour authorities) provide a good underwater environment for snorkelling and diving. North of Cape Moreton, Flinders Reef and Smith Rock are popular diving spots, with beautiful coral formations and a variety of fish.
