An aerial view of the amazing Great Barrier Reef

PARK INFORMATION

NPRSR 13 7468 | Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority www.gbrmpa.gov.au

SIZE

34.8 million ha (World Heritage area)

LOCATION

From just north of Bundaberg to the Torres Strait

PERMITS

Camping permit and fees apply; bookings essential; for details on camping on island national parks, contact NPRSR 13 7468

ACCESS

From various departure points by boat or aeroplane

BEST SEASON

All seasons

VISITOR INFORMATION

Queensland Holidays www.queenslandholidays.com.au | Tourism Tropical North Queensland www.ttnq.org.au

MUST SEE, MUST DO

WATCH loggerhead turtles lay their eggs (December–March) or the eggs hatching (January–April) on the sands of Heron Island

SNORKEL in the reef waters around Michaelmas Cay or Lady Musgrave Island

SCUBA dive with a guide at Cod Hole or Pixie Bommie

LAP UP the luxury at exclusive resorts on Lizard or Orpheus islands

SAIL around the beautiful Whitsunday Islands

FISH in proximity of the reef offshore from Gladstone

WINDSURF in protected bays on Dunk Island

BUSHWALK along scenic trails of Hinchinbrook or Brampton islands

         

The Great Barrier Reef is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Stretching for more than 2300 kilometres along the Queensland coast, it features brilliantly coloured corals living beneath aquamarine waters, a profusion of tropical islands and a wealth of marine creatures and birdlife. Its World Heritage listing and protection within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park aims to ensure its preservation for future generations.

The Great Barrier Reef was designated as a World Heritage area in 1981, and was the first coral reef ecosystem in the world to receive this status. It is the world's largest and most famous coral formation, and is the greatest single tourist attraction in Queensland. Breathtakingly beautiful just below the surface of the water, with a complex ecosystem – over 1500 species of fish coexist with sea turtles, manta rays, sharks, dolphins, dugongs and whales – the reef is one of the world's great tourist destinations, particularly for diving and snorkelling.

Scattered throughout the reef are over 900 islands, many of which are protected as national parks. Geologically, these islands fall into two categories: coral cays or continental islands. Coral cays are formed when coral on a section of reef is exposed above sea level then ground down over thousands of years by winds and waves into sand. Seeds washed ashore or brought by birds begin to grow, and over time the cay begins to stabilise. Two well-known coral cays on the reef are Green Island, just north-east of Cairns, and Heron Island, north-east of Gladstone. Continental islands, by contrast, are formed when rising sea levels submerge mainland coastal ranges, leaving only the peaks exposed. Dunk Island and Hinchinbrook Island are examples of the reef’s continental islands.

The reef's island national parks provide very different experiences for visitors. Some offer luxury resort-style accommodation with a range of recreational activities; others are remote and rugged, with bush camping only (dozens of islands in these national parks permit camping). There are islands that provide important breeding grounds for birds, and islands with strong Aboriginal cultural links. For the purposes of this book, the marine park has been divided into three sections: Southern Reef Islands, Whitsunday Islands, and Tropical North Islands.

Southern Reef Islands

The southern part of the reef stretches from just north of Hervey Bay to the southern reaches of the Coral Sea, north of Yeppoon. Access to the islands in this area is from the major population centres of Gladstone and Yeppoon, east of Rockhampton, and various smaller places along this coast.

CAPRICORNIA CAYS NATIONAL PARK Capricornia Cays National Park protects 16 coral islands, or cays, 60 to 100 kilometres north-east of Gladstone, all with pristine white-sand beaches and superb fringing reefs. Of these, eight are vegetated and open for access to the public; a number of others are restricted to scientific research. North West, Heron and Lady Musgrave islands are the most well known cays in the park. Covering 105 hectares, North West Island is the second largest coral cay in the marine park. Heron Island is an internationally important rookery for green and loggerhead turtles, which breed during spring and summer, laying their eggs in nests they scrape out of the sand above the high-water mark; it is also famed for its superb scuba-diving sites. Lady Musgrave Island, well protected from currents, is ideal for inexperienced snorkellers.

Camping is permitted – but not on the beaches – only on North West, Lady Musgrave and Masthead islands; restrictions apply and booking is essential year-round. Visitors must be self-sufficient, bringing in all their supplies, including water and a fuel stove. Resort accommodation is also available at Heron Island. The Capricornia Cays are accessible by charter or private boat from Gladstone.

KEPPEL BAY ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Keppel Bay Islands National Park protects 15 of the 18 islands that lie in Keppel Bay, 15 kilometres offshore from Yeppoon. A notable exception is the largest island of the group, Great Keppel, which is well known for its tourist attractions. Two of the islands, Barren and Peak, have restricted access due to their scientific value. Visit North Keppel to see its dense stands of weeping cabbage palms and wonderful birdlife. Walk to the Keppel Bay Lookout for magnificent views or go snorkelling at Mazie Bay.

Bush camping is permitted on seven of the Keppel Bay islands; of these, only two (North Keppel and Humpy) provide toilets, water and showers. Visitors must be self-sufficient, bringing in all supplies, including water and a fuel stove. Access to the islands is by charter or private boat from Rossyln Bay or Great Keppel Island. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

Islands of the Whitsunday Coast

Off the central Queensland coast from south of Mackay to Bowen are hundreds of islands, many grouped together and protected under national park status. The main access is by boat from Mackay in the south and Shute Harbour or Airlie Beach in the north. Airports are at Mackay, Proserpine and Hamilton Island.

SOUTH CUMBERLAND ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK This national park comprises a number of islands lying 60 kilometres north-east of Mackay, their hilly terrain providing a real wilderness experience for nature lovers. Scawfell Island, the largest in the group, has steep, granite cliffs backed by eucalypt woodlands, and contains the park’s only picnic facilities. Refuge Bay, on the island's north side, has a safe anchorage and fishing is permitted.

Bookings are essential to bush camp on Scawfell. Visitors must be self-sufficient, taking fresh water and a fuel stove with them. Insect repellent is also an essential item. The park is accessed by private or charter boat, with the nearest boat launch at Seaforth, 45 kilometres north of Mackay. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

NEWRY ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Newry Islands National Park comprises eight islands lying just offshore from Seaforth (45 kilometres north of Mackay). These continental islands are wild, rocky landscapes dominated by open forests of ironbark, bloodwood and blue gum, interspersed with pockets of rainforest. Wildlife includes koalas, echidnas, possums, and green turtles that nest on Rabbit Island in summer. Birdlife is prolific: look for pied imperial-pigeons, noisy pittas and orangefooted scrubfowl in the rainforest, and brahminy kites, ospreys and white-bellied sea-eagles soaring on the thermals above the exposed headlands. The seagrass beds around the islands provide habitat for dugong.

Bush camping is available on Rabbit and Outer Newry islands, while a campsite with some facilities – shelter and composting toilets – can be found on Newry Island’s old resort site. Visitors must be self-sufficient, taking drinking water, a fuel stove and insect repellent. Bookings are required year-round. Access is by private boat from Victor Creek, 4 kilometres west of Seaforth. Swimming is not recommended as saltwater crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present from October to May.

BRAMPTON ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Brampton Islands National Park is at the base of the world-renowned Whitsunday Island Passage, 32 kilometres north-east of Mackay. Its namesake, mountainous Brampton Island, boasts lush rainforest, sandy beaches, azure waters and coral gardens. Get your bearings by walking to Brampton Peak for views over nearby islands and the mainland. The 8.4-kilometre walking circuit around Brampton Island leads through open eucalypt forest, dense vine thickets, dry rainforest, native grasslands, coastal scrub and mangroves.

There is a resort on Brampton, with all the trimmings; otherwise at low tide you can walk across to the national park campsite on Carlisle Island, where there are picnic tables, a shelter shed and toilets. You must book ahead and take fresh water, a fuel stove and insect repellent. Access to the two islands in the national park is by charter or private boat. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

SMITH ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Smith Islands National Park, north of Brampton, protects a group of 16 continental islands, of which Goldsmith Island is the largest. It offers a back-to-nature camping experience set in a landscape of sandy beaches and rocky headlands. There is bush camping with toilets and picnic tables only so campers must be self-sufficient and take fresh water, a fuel stove for cooking and insect repellent. Bookings are essential. Goldsmith Island is 30 kilometres north-east of Seaforth and access is by private or charter boat. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

REPULSE ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK The small group of islands that make up Repulse Islands National Park can only be accessed by private boat. Just off Cape Conway, South Repulse Island has a small camping area in a sheltered bay at West Beach with good anchorage. Campers must be self-sufficient and take fresh water, a fuel stove for cooking and insect repellent. Swimming is not recommended as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present in the sea from October to May.

LINDEMAN ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK The Lindeman Islands are, strictly speaking, the most southerly group of islands in the Whitsundays. Lindeman Island gained national prominence in 1992 as the site of the first Club Med resort in Australia, although this resort closed in January 2012. It has six marked walking trails, which take you through rainforest, open forest, grasslands and wetlands. There is self-sufficient camping on Lindeman and Shaw islands, bookings are essential. Access is by private or charter boat or by aircraft. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

MOLLE ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Of the inshore islands protected in Molle Islands National Park, South Molle Island is the best known. It has numerous inlets and splendid views of the Whitsunday Passage, plus great wildflowers in spring and early summer. See the stone quarry on the island once used by the Ngaro people for making tools and weapons. Enjoy bushwalking, snorkelling, scuba-diving, windsurfing and sailing.

On South Molle you can stay at the resort or bush camp at Sandy or Paddle bays. You can also camp on North Molle, Long, Tancred, Planton and Denman islands. Campers must be self-sufficient and take water, a fuel stove and insect repellent. Access is by private or commercial boat from Shute Harbour or Abel Point Marina in Airlie Beach; arrange your passage before booking your campsite. Swimming is not recommended, as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are also present from October to May.

WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Scattered throughout the Whitsunday Passage, 26 of the Whitsunday islands are protected within the national park. The waters around these islands are favoured by migrating humpback whales as a calving ground between May and September each year. Do not miss Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island, world-renowned for its intensely white silica sands and crystal-clear waters.

Some of the campsites available on Whitsunday, Hook and Henning islands have spectacular views over nearby islands. All offer toilets and all but one have picnic tables, but facilities are otherwise basic; campers must be totally self-sufficient and take water, a fuel stove and insect repellent.

The Whitsunday Island group is accessible from Airlie Beach or Shute Harbour by private boat or commercial tours; arrange your passage before booking your campsite. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

The stunningly clear, blue waters and pristine white sand welcome you to Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island

GLOUCESTER ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Lying offshore between Airlie Beach and Bowen, Gloucester Island National Park protects the most remote islands in the Whitsundays. These islands offer secluded beaches, pristine rainforests and a wilderness camping experience.

There are two campsites at Gloucester Island, the largest of which offers toilets and picnic tables. Visitors may also camp at Armit Island and Saddleback Island, which have few facilities and no toilets. Campers must be self-sufficient, bringing in all supplies including water and a fuel stove. Insect repellent is also recommended. Access is by private boat only from Airlie Beach or the nearby hamlet of Dingo Beach. Swimming is not recommended as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present in the sea from October to May.

Tropical North Islands

The islands in this region lie offshore from just south of Townsville to Cape York. They are generally accessible from the main population centres of Townsville and Cairns, both of which have major airports. Cairns has an international airport and services a range of tours to the outer reef.

MAGNETIC ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Captain Cook gave Magnetic Island its evocative name on his 1770 voyage after believing the island's landmass had affected his compass. Now just over half of the island's 5184 hectares are protected by the national park. Here rugged mountains covered with open eucalypt woodlands sweep down to rocky granite headlands dotted with hoop pines and native kapok. Wildlife includes koalas, allied rock-wallabies, turtles and a wide variety of birds. Look for the shell middens, stone tools and art sites of the Wulgurukaba people, who lived on the island and nearby mainland for thousands of years. Walk to the World War II forts for spectacular views.

Camping is not permitted on the island but a wide range of private accommodation is available both on the island and in Townsville. Magnetic is only 8 kilometres offshore from Townsville and can be reached by daily passenger and car ferry services or by private boat. Bicycles, motorbikes and small cars can be hired on the island. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

ORPHEUS ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Located just 23 kilometres south-east of Lucinda (near Ingham), most of the small, narrow Orpheus Island is protected by national park; it is also home to an exclusive resort and a research station operated by James Cook University. A popular boating destination, the island boasts a magnificent fringing coral reef that is great for snorkelling and diving – around the island's north-east tip is especially good. Large coral bommies can be seen at Little Pioneer Bay, Cattle Bay and around Yanks Jetty.

There are three campsites on the island, two of which have composting toilets and picnic tables, but few other facilities. Visitors must be self-sufficient and bring all supplies, including water and a fuel stove. Access is by charter or private boat from Taylors Beach or Lucinda. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

HINCHINBROOK ISLAND NATIONAL PARK This place is a wonderland of mountains, tropical vegetation, waterfalls, mangrove-fringed shores and sandy beaches. Lying just 8 kilometres offshore and running adjacent to the coast between Cardwell and Lucinda, Hinchinbrook is a mecca for bushwalkers; they come to experience the world-famous Thorsborne Trail. Named after local naturalists Margaret and Arthur Thorsborne, the trail is a challenging, 32-kilometre ungraded track along the island's east coast that takes at least three days to complete. Bush campsites, water and toilets are available along the trail. The number of walkers allowed on the track at any one time is limited to 40 people (in groups no bigger than six), so bookings are required at least 12 months in advance for holidays; April to September are the best months for walking. The island also attracts anglers keen to fish from its pristine beaches. Mackerel, trevally and fingermark are found in Shepherd Bay.

The Haven and the twin campsites at Macushla are the two main camping areas on Hinchinbrook; both have toilets, picnic tables and barbecues. A large number of smaller campsites for self-sufficient campers are dotted across the island. Access is by water taxi or private boat from Cardwell and Lucinda. At the time of writing the park was still recovering from the effects of Cyclone Yasi in February 2011; not all facilities may be available, and the resort at the northern end of the island may be closed. Swimming is not recommended as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present in the sea from October to May.

Sailing is a popular activity in the Tropical North Islands and the best way to meet the locals

FAMILY ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK This national park protects a chain of islands offshore between Tully Heads and Mission Beach. The largest and most northerly of the group is Dunk Island, renowned for its relaxed atmosphere, hilly rainforest interior and abundant birdlife, with over 100 species of birds recorded. An ideal place for families, there is plenty to do here: parasailing, waterskiing, sailing, snorkelling, birdwatching and bushwalking – there are 13 kilometres of tracks, although at the time of printing many of these tracks were closed after the effects of Cyclone Yasi in February 2011. Naturalist E.J. Banfield, the island’s first settler, made Dunk famous with his 1908 book The Confessions of a Beachcomber, and lived here until his death in 1923.

At the time of writing, the campsite on Dunk Island was being rebuilt after its destruction by Yasi; the more basic campsites on Wheeler and Coombe islands remain operational. Access is by private boat or water taxi from Wongaling and South Mission Beach. Beware of marine stingers in the sea from October to May.

FITZROY ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Fitzroy Island, only 25 kilometres east of Cairns, is a low-key destination with white coral beaches scattered with granite boulders, and magnificent flora and fauna. Known to the Gungandji people as Gabar or Gabarra, the island has had a chequered past. Captain Cook named it in 1770 after the British prime minister of the day. A century later the island was used as a quarantine station for Chinese immigrants bound for the Palmer River goldfields; a number of unmarked graves from this time bear witness to the harsh conditions. The island has also supported a bêche-demer fishing trade and an Aboriginal mission. Now a national park, visitors come here to enjoy the spectacular views, walking trails, wildlife-watching and snorkelling – at Welcome Bay, Nudey Beach, the Playground or Sharkfin Bay.

Camping on Fitzroy Island is permitted only in the resort camping area. Alternatively you can stay at the resort at Welcome Bay. Access is by daily ferry services or private boat from Cairns. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

GREEN ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Green Island is one of the most accessible islands on the Great Barrier Reef. Located just north-east of Cairns, it is a true coral cay covered with lush tropical vegetation, formed over thousands of years by the build-up of sand and coral sediments. It is part of the traditional sea country of the Gungandji people, who used this 12-hectare island as an initiation ground for young men.

A national park since 1937, Green Island is surrounded by exceptionally beautiful fringing reefs, making diving and snorkelling here a real treat. There are also glass-bottomed boats and an underwater observatory for reef viewing. You are likely to see giant clams, stingrays, and endangered green and hawksbill turtles; back on shore are over 60 species of birds.

Camping is not allowed on Green Island but for those wanting to stay there is a small luxury resort. Daily ferry services operate the 50-minute journey from Cairns to the island. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

MICHAELMAS AND UPOLU CAYS NATIONAL PARK A little north of Green Island, but a world away in every other respect, is a group of small sand islands. Covered only by grasses and ground-hugging plants, these provide one of the most important seabird breeding sites in the Great Barrier Reef. Birds that nest here in summer include common noddies, eastern reef egrets, ruddy turnstones and numerous tern species – sooty, crested, black-naped, little and roseate. Camping is not permitted. Michaelmas Cay can be accessed by charter or private boat for day trips from Cairns. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

HOPE ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK Another important nesting site for birds is protected in the two coral cays that make up this national park off the coast halfway between Cairns and Cooktown, opposite the mouth of the Daintree River. Over 25 species of seabirds and woodland birds have been recorded here, including white-bellied sea-eagles, ospreys, beach stone-curlews, pied imperial-pigeons, kingfishers and bar-shouldered doves. Part of the sea country of the Kuku Yalanji people, the Hope Islands were christened with a European name by Captain Cook when the Endeavour struck a nearby reef. Yet it seems to have been a shocking misnomer, as a century later two schooners also grounded on the reefs around the island, both of them sinking.

While camping is not permitted on West Hope Island, East Hope Island has a campsite with toilets, picnic tables and fireplaces. Visitors must be self-sufficient and carry all supplies, including water and a fuel stove. Access is by charter or private boat from Cooktown. Swimming is not recommended as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present in the sea from October to May.

THREE ISLANDS GROUP NATIONAL PARK In an odd equation, eight wooded islands spread across three groups and 28 kilometres of water make up the Three Islands Group National Park. North of Cooktown and south of Cape Flattery, these islands are important seabird nesting sites. Bush camping is permitted only on the western island of the Two Islands subgroup, and campers must be self-sufficient, bringing in all supplies, including water and a fuel stove. Camping is not permitted during the seabird nesting season, between September and March. Swimming is not recommended here, as estuarine crocodiles live in these waters and box jellyfish are present from October to May.

LIZARD ISLAND NATIONAL PARK Lizard Island, north-east of Cape Flattery and the northernmost island on the Barrier Reef that offers accommodation, was named by Cook in 1770 after the sand monitors he saw on the island. There are in fact 11 species of lizards in the grasslands that dominate the island's vegetation, as well as geckos, skinks, snakes and more than 40 species of birds. The island is a sacred place for the traditional owners, the Dingaal people.

Lizard is one of six islands protected in Lizard Island National Park, the only continental island group close to the outer barrier of the reef. Lizard Island is world-renowned for its scuba-diving sites such as Cod Hole and Pixie Bommie. Other pursuits are snorkelling amid the giant clam gardens in Watsons Bay, picnicking at the day-visitor site overlooking Watsons Bay, and walking to Cooks Look for great views.

Accommodation options on this remote and rugged island include a small, luxurious resort with bungalow-style lodgings, or bush camping for self-sufficient campers. Water is available but must be boiled before drinking. Access to the island is by plane from Cairns and Cooktown, or by charter or private boat. Beware of marine stingers from October to May.

NATIONAL PARKS IN THE FAR NORTH The small, rugged islands that make up the Turtle Group National Park, just west of Lizard Island, and the Flinders Group National Park, further to the north-west in Princess Charlotte Bay, are suitable for selfsufficient wilderness campers only. All supplies must be carried in, including water and a fuel stove. Access to both of these island parks is by charter or private boat.