Mango Ice Cream
Makes: 1 generous quart/1 generous liter
The tropical, bright, and luscious flavor of mango makes for a terrific ice cream. Canned mango pulp from India has far more flavor than the fresh mangoes available in the U.S. It is well worth seeking out the best mango pulp, such as the Ratna brand, which is made from the Alphonso mango, often referred to in India as the “king of mangoes.” The pulp is very smooth and contains sugar, but because of the mango’s high water content I use a cornstarch slurry to ensure that there is not even the slightest iciness. This ice cream deserves the best of everything.
Ice Cream Base
| Alphonso mango pulp, preferably Ratna brand (see Scoops) | 333 grams | 1¼ cups (296 ml) |
| cornstarch | 9 grams | 1 tablespoon |
| milk | 121 grams | ½ cup (118 ml), divided |
| heavy cream | 348 grams | 1½ cups (355 ml) |
| sugar | 150 grams | ¾ cup |
| glucose or reduced corn syrup | 63 grams | 3 tablespoons (45 ml) |
| fine sea salt | . | a pinch |
| 6 (to 9) large egg yolks | 112 grams | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (104 ml) |
| pure vanilla extract | . | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) |
| freshly ground cardamom to taste (optional) |
* Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl.
* Prepare an ice water bath (see instructions).
1) Into a small bowl, weigh or measure the mango pulp. Cover and refrigerate it.
2) In a custard cup or small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and 21 grams/2 tablespoons/30 ml of the milk until smooth, adding the milk slowly as you mix it in. Cover with plastic wrap.
3) In a medium saucepan, with a silicone spatula, stir together the remaining milk (100 grams/6 tablespoons/89 ml), the cream, sugar, glucose, and salt until well blended.
4) In a small bowl, place the egg yolks and whisk them lightly. Set it near the cooktop.
5) Over medium heat, bring the milk mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Lower the heat and cook at a slow boil for 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate some of the water in the mixture. Remove the pan from the heat. Allow the mixture to cool for a few minutes (to about 180°F/82°C).
6) Stir the cornstarch mixture to make sure it is smooth and then whisk it into the hot mixture. Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to a slow boil. Cook for 1 minute, whisking gently. It will thicken slightly.
7) Remove the cornstarch mixture from the heat and gradually whisk about ½ cup/118 ml of the mixture into the egg yolks to temper them. Then use a whisk to stir the egg yolk mixture back into the pot. Check the temperature. If an instant-read thermometer reads 170°F/77°C, there is no need to heat it further. If it is lower, heat the mixture on low, stirring constantly, until thickened a little further. When a finger is run across the back of the spatula, it will leave a well-defined track. An instant-read thermometer should read 170° to 180°F/77° to 82°C.
8) Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer into the bowl and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.
9) Set the bowl in the ice water bath and allow it to cool until no longer warm to the touch, stirring occasionally. Stir in the mango pulp and vanilla. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. (Alternatively, continue cooling it in the ice water bath.) Set a covered storage container in the freezer.
10) Churn the mango custard in a prechilled ice cream maker. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container, and allow the ice cream to firm in the freezer for at least 4 hours before serving.
If desired, sprinkle each serving with a little ground cardamom.
Store
Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days
Scoops
* Many canned brands of mango pulp taste more like peach than mango. The Ratna brand is renowned for its bright orange flesh and intense mango flavor.
Variation
Mango Ginger Ice Cream
My talented colleague and longtime friend Nathan Fong recommended this terrific flavor combination. Chop about 55 grams/¼ cup crystallized ginger into small pieces and add it during churning when the ice cream has reached the consistency of soft serve.