Pear Ice Cream
Makes: About 5 cups/1.2 liters
Joël Robuchon was a culinary genius, so when years ago I discovered his pear and star anise clafoutis (a crustless custard tart) in his book Simply French, I knew it would be really special. It was, in fact, even more wonderful than I had imagined, so it stayed in my memory and reappeared when I was thinking about potential ice cream flavors. I dedicate this recipe to Chef Robuchon’s memory.
Fresh Pear Purée and Syrup
Makes: 400 grams/1½ cups/355 ml of purée; 60 grams/¾ cup/177 ml of syrup
| 3 large or 2 medium firm ripe Bartlett pears (1½ pounds/680 grams), peeled, cored, and cubed (see Scoops) | 567 grams cubes | 3 cups cubes |
| sugar | 100 grams | ½ cup |
| fine sea salt | . | a pinch |
| lemon juice, freshly squeezed and strained | 8 grams | ½ tablespoon (7.5 ml) |
* Have ready a medium or fine-mesh strainer suspended over a 2 cup/473 ml glass measure with a spout.
1) In a medium bowl, place the pear cubes, sugar, salt, and lemon juice. Toss to mix well. Allow it to sit for a minimum of 30 minutes. Transfer the pear cubes and the syrup to a colander suspended over a bowl to capture the syrup. The pears will have released their juices to yield about 60 grams/¾ cup/177 ml of syrup.
2) Into a medium saucepan, pour the syrup and cover it.
3) In a food processor, purée the pears. Press it through the strainer to remove any little fibers. You should have about 400 grams/1½ cups/355 ml of purée. Cover the purée and refrigerate it.
The pear purée keeps in an airtight container for 2 days refrigerated or 6 months frozen.
Ice Cream Base
| 6 whole star anise, including any seeds (see Scoops) | about 6 grams | . |
| sugar | 25 grams | 2 tablespoons |
| cornstarch | 12 grams | 4 teaspoons |
| milk | 121 grams | ½ cup (118 ml), divided |
| 6 (to 9) large egg yolks | 112 grams | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (104 ml) |
| crème fraîche or heavy cream | 348 grams | 1½ cups (355 ml) |
| 1 vanilla bean, cut in half lengthwise | . | OR 2 teaspoons (10 ml) pure vanilla extract |
| Fresh Pear Syrup | 60 grams | ¾ cup (177 ml) |
| glucose or reduced corn syrup | 84 grams | ¼ cup (59 ml) |
| Fresh Pear Purée | 400 grams | 1½ cups (355 ml) |
| Aftelier pear essence (optional) | . | 3 to 4 drops, to taste |
| Poire Williams (pear eau-de-vie, optional) | 28 grams | 2 tablespoons (30 ml) |
* Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl.
* Prepare an ice water bath (see instructions).
1) In a small coffee mill or a mortar and pestle, grind the star anise (including any seeds) together with the sugar to a fine powder. Cover and set it aside.
2) In a custard cup or small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and 21 grams/2 tablespoons/30 ml of the milk until smooth, adding the milk slowly as you mix it in. Cover with plastic wrap.
3) In a small bowl, place the egg yolks, and whisk them lightly. Set it near the cooktop.
4) In a 2 cup/473 ml or larger glass measure with a spout, whisk together the remaining milk (100 grams/6 tablespoons/89 ml) and the crème fraîche. With a small knife, scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the milk mixture. (Store the vanilla bean pod for another use.) Heat in the microwave until hot, stirring every 20 to 30 seconds. (Or combine the mixture in a medium saucepan and heat on the cooktop, stirring with a silicone spatula.) Cover and set it aside.
5) In the medium saucepan containing the pear syrup, add the glucose. Over medium heat, bring the syrup and glucose to a boil, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula. Lower the heat and continue boiling until it reduces and just begins to caramelize to a light golden amber. An instant-read thermometer should read 244°F/118°C.
6) Remove the pan from the heat and immediately but gradually add the hot milk mixture. Stir until uniform in color.
7) Stir the cornstarch mixture to make sure it is smooth and then whisk it into the hot milk mixture. Return the pan to the heat and bring the mixture to a slow boil. Cook for 1 minute, whisking gently. It will thicken slightly.
8) Remove the cornstarch mixture from the heat and gradually whisk about ½ cup/118 ml of the mixture into the egg yolks to temper them. Then use a whisk to stir the egg yolk mixture back into the pot. Check the temperature. If an instant-read thermometer reads 170°F/77°C, there is no need to heat it further. If it is lower, heat the mixture on low, stirring constantly until thickened a little further. When a finger is run across the back of the spatula, it will leave a well-defined track. An instant-read thermometer should read 170° to 180°F/77° to 82°C.
9) Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer into the bowl and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.
10) Set the bowl in the ice water bath and allow it to cool until no longer warm to the touch, stirring occasionally. Stir in the pear purée, the vanilla extract (if not using the vanilla bean seeds), and the star anise mixture. If desired, add the pear essence by the droplet. It is very powerful, so add just a drop at a time. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. (Alternatively, cool in an ice water bath.) Set a covered storage container in the freezer.
11) Churn the pear custard in a prechilled ice cream maker. If adding the eau-de-vie, add it during churning when the ice cream has reached the consistency of soft serve and begins to ball up around the dasher. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container, and allow the ice cream to firm in the freezer for at least 4 hours before serving.
Store
Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days
Scoops
* Bartlett pears from California are available beginning in June, but the most flavorful Bartlett pears come from Washington State in the fall.
* Star anise has the best flavor when no older than 3 months.