Orange Ice Cream
Makes: About 1 quart/1 liter
Orange juice makes a wonderful orange curd provided it is concentrated to increase acidity and flavor. You can concentrate it completely in a saucepan, preferably nonstick, but for the purest flavor, the final reduction in the microwave is best.
Ice Cream Base
| unsalted butter | 64 grams | 4½ tablespoons (½ stick plus ½ tablespoon) |
| orange peel (2 to 3 navel oranges, see Scoops) | 12 grams | . |
| orange juice, freshly squeezed and strained (6 oranges) | 644 grams | 2⅔ cups (630 ml) |
| 5 (to 8) large egg yolks | 93 grams | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (89 ml) |
| sugar | 171 grams | ⅔ cup plus 3 tablespoons, divided |
| glucose or reduced corn syrup | 28 grams | 4 teaspoons (20 ml) |
| fine sea salt | . | a pinch |
| heavy cream | 387 grams | 1⅔ cups (394 ml) |
| milk | 136 grams | ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (133 ml) |
| milk for rinsing the peel | 60 grams | ¼ cup (59 ml) |
* About 1 hour ahead, cut the butter into four pieces and set it on the counter at room temperature (65° to 75°F/18° to 24°C).
* Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl containing the orange peel.
1) In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, boil the orange juice, stirring constantly, until reduced to ¾ to 1 cup/177 to 237 ml. Pour it into a 4 cup/1 liter glass measure with a spout that has been lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray, and microwave, stirring every 20 to 30 seconds, for about 10 minutes, until reduced to no less than 150 grams/9 tablespoons/133 ml and no more than 176 grams/⅔ cup/158 ml (about one-quarter of its original weight or volume). Set it aside to cool until no longer hot to the touch.
2) In a medium saucepan, with a silicone spatula, stir together the egg yolks, butter, 133 grams/⅔ cup of the sugar, and the glucose until well blended. Stir in the orange juice and salt. It will be very thick.
3) Heat the mixture on medium-low, stirring constantly, until slightly thicker than heavy cream. It should thickly coat the spatula and will pool slightly when a little is dropped back on its surface.
4) Immediately pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.
5) Whisk the remaining sugar (38 grams/3 tablespoons) into the hot orange curd, and then the cream and milk. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. Set a covered storage container in the freezer.
6) Strain the mixture into a bowl. Transfer the peel to another bowl and add the 60 grams/¼ cup/59 ml of milk for rinsing the peel. Stir the peel and milk together to remove the custard mixture that clings to the peel. Remove and discard the peel, and add the milk to the rest of the custard mixture.
7) Churn the orange custard in a prechilled ice cream maker. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container, and allow the ice cream to firm in the freezer for at least 4 hours before serving.
Store
Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days
Scoops
* Be sure to scrub the orange with a little liquid detergent, rinse well, and dry before removing the peel. When removing the peel, avoid the bitter white pith beneath or scrape it off if necessary.
* When reducing the orange juice, it is important to stir it every 20 to 30 seconds to prevent spattering.
Variations
Tangerine Ice Cream
Tangerines are slightly less tart than oranges but also a little more intense in flavor. Replace the orange juice with an equal weight or volume of tangerine juice. Use navel orange peel rather than tangerine peel, which is very bitter.
Tangelo Ice Cream
Tangelos are a cross between oranges and grapefruits. Substitute an equal weight or volume of tangelo juice and peel, and add an extra 8 grams/2 teaspoons of sugar in Step 5.