Pistachio Ice Cream
Makes: About 5 cups/1.2 liters
Pistachio nuts and paste vary widely in quality, so the flavor can be very elusive. It is, therefore, only worth making with the best pistachio paste from Sicily. The pistachios are blanched so the color of the ice cream will be a lovely pale green. The oil contained in the pistachios contributes to the ice cream’s voluptuous creaminess.
My favorite pistachio paste is from Agrimontana, which is made from 100% Sicilian pistachios. If using another product, if no percentage is listed on the label, it is likely to be lower, so add it to taste.
Ice Cream Base
| 100% pistachio paste (see Scoops) | 112 grams | ½ cup |
| 6 (to 9) large egg yolks | 112 grams | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (104 ml) |
| milk | 242 grams | 1 cup (237 ml) |
| heavy cream | 464 grams | 2 cups (473 ml), divided |
| sugar | 150 grams | ¾ cup |
| glucose or reduced corn syrup | 42 grams | 2 tablespoons (30 ml) |
| fine sea salt | . | a pinch |
* Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl containing the pistachio paste.
1) In a medium saucepan, with a silicone spatula, stir together the egg yolks, milk, and 116 grams/½ cup/118 ml of the cream until well blended. Stir in the sugar, glucose, and salt until the sugar has dissolved.
2) Heat the mixture on medium-low, stirring constantly, until slightly thicker than heavy cream; when a finger is run across the back of the spatula, it will leave a well-defined track. An instant read thermometer should read 170° to 180°F/77° to 82°C.
3) Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the mixture into the strainer, scraping up the thickened mixture that has settled on the bottom of the pan. Press it through the strainer and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl. Wipe out the strainer and set it on top of another medium bowl.
4) Whisk the pistachio paste into the custard mixture until well blended. Then press it through the strainer and scrape any mixture clinging to the underside into the bowl.
5) Pour the remaining cream (348 grams/1½ cups/355 ml) through the strainer and stir it into the custard mixture. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of 8 hours or until no warmer than 43°F/6°C. (Alternatively, cool in an ice water bath.) Set a covered storage container in the freezer.
6) Churn the pistachio custard in a prechilled ice cream maker. Transfer the ice cream to the chilled container. Press a piece of plastic wrap on top, cover it, and allow it to firm in the freezer for about 4 hours before serving.
Store
Covered storage container: frozen, 3 days
Scoops
* Be sure to stir the pistachio paste before weighing or measuring it to integrate the oil that separates and comes to the top.
* For extra texture and flavor, add about 75 grams/½ cup of unsalted pistachio nuts, chopped medium-coarse, during churning when the ice cream has reached the consistency of soft serve and begins to ball up around the dasher.