New Brunswick |
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HISTORY
LOCAL CULTURE
LAND & CLIMATE
PARKS & WILDLIFE
INFORMATION
GETTING THERE & AROUND
FREDERICTON
HISTORY
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
UPPER ST JOHN RIVER VALLEY
KING’S LANDING HISTORICAL SETTLEMENT
WOODSTOCK
HARTLAND
FLORENCEVILLE & AROUND
MT CARLETON & THE TOBIQUE VALLEY
GRAND FALLS
EDMUNDSTON
WESTERN FUNDY SHORE
ST STEPHEN
ST ANDREWS BY-THE-SEA
FUNDY ISLES
DEER ISLAND
CAMPOBELLO ISLAND
GRAND MANAN ISLAND
NEW RIVER PROVINCIAL PARK
SAINT JOHN
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
EASTERN FUNDY SHORE
ST MARTINS
FUNDY NATIONAL PARK
ALMA
CAPE ENRAGE & MARY’S POINT
HOPEWELL ROCKS
SOUTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK
MONCTON
SACKVILLE
FORT BEAUSÉJOUR NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
NORTHUMBERLAND SHORE
CAPE JOURIMAIN
SHEDIAC
BOUCTOUCHE
KOUCHIBOUGUAC NATIONAL PARK
THE MIRAMICHI RIVER VALLEY
MIRAMICHI CITY
MIRAMICHI RIVER VALLEY
NORTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK
TRACADIE-SHEILA
CARAQUET
CAMPBELLTON
In the early 20th century, the New Brunswick wilderness was world-famous and fashionable. Wealthy American sportsmen and glamorous Hollywood starlets regularly journeyed north to fish its rivers and hunt in the vast forested interior. US President Franklin Roosevelt made his summer home on Campobello Island, along the southern sea coast. Gradually New Brunswick slipped into relative obscurity; a terra incognita lying between Quebec and Nova Scotia. But the unspoiled wilderness is still there. So are gentle green valleys dotted with farms, colorful fishing villages along the coast, and a maritime culture melding the heritage of the early Acadian and British settlers with strong aboriginal traditions and those of recent immigrants.
The Trans-Canada Hwy cuts a roughly diagonal swath across the province from its northwest corner to the southeastern tip en route to Prince Edward Island. To see New Brunswick, you have to get off the highway and explore its small towns and villages, scenic river valleys, wilderness parks and coastal islands. Troll the art galleries and craft studios for antiques and fine local pottery, make the rounds of the weekend farmers’ markets, and catch some live Maritime music at one of the summer festivals or local pubs.
New Brunswick offers outstanding opportunities for enjoying the great outdoors. Whale-watching around Passamaquoddy Bay and Grand Manan is so good it comes with a sighting guarantee. Sea-kayak outfitters offer a rigorous day out on the waves. The inland lakes and rivers have unlimited opportunities for canoe-tripping. Hike the northern end of the Appalachian mountain range in Mount Carleton Provincial Park, the coastal path around Grand Manan Island, or cycle from B&B to B&B along quiet country roads.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Feel the power of the highest tides in the world from the lighthouse at Cape Enrage
- Browse the streets in the picturesque villages of St-Andrews-by-the-Sea, Gagetown and Sussex
- Dip your canoe paddle in the Chiputneticook and Nictau Lakes
- Breathe in the fresh sea air and unwind on peaceful, isolated Grand Manan Island
- Stretch out on the sandy beach at Kouchibouguac National Park or Parlee Beach
- Live Loyalist and Acadian history at King’s Landing Historical Settlement and Village Historique Acadien
- Taste the first strawberries of the season and other delicacies at weekly farmers’ markets in Fredericton and Dieppe
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HISTORY
What is now New Brunswick was originally the land of the Mi’kmaq and, in the western and southern areas, the Maliseet Aboriginals. Many places still bear their aboriginal names although the Aboriginal people (who today number around 17,000) are now concentrated on small pockets of land.
Following in the wake of explorer Samuel de Champlain, French colonists arrived in the 1600s. The Acadians, as they came to be known, farmed the area around the Bay of Fundy. In 1755 they were expelled by the English, many returning to settle along the Bay of Chaleur. In the years following, the outbreak of the American Revolution brought an influx of British Loyalists from Boston and New York seeking refuge in the wilds of New Brunswick. These refugees settled the valleys of the St John and St Croix Rivers, established the city of Saint John and bolstered the garrison town at Fredericton. The majority of the population still has British roots. Irish ancestry is dominant in Saint John and Miramichi.
Through the 1800s lumbering and shipbuilding boomed and by the start of the 20th century other industries, including fishing, had developed. That era of prosperity ended with the Great Depression. Today, pulp and paper, oil refining and potato farming are the major industries.
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LOCAL CULTURE
The rural/urban split is 50/50 in New Brunswick, and due perhaps to its country roots, New Brunswick has a generally conservative but tolerant culture. A Montreal-bought skirt that’s just a little too short may garner a few raised eyebrows, but they’ll generally keep their opinions to themselves. The church parking lots are generally full on a Sunday morning, but so are the pubs on a Friday night, and there is some overlap in clientele. Country and gospel music are popular in these parts, but every sizable town has a small alternative music and arts scene and a few young people walking around with pink hair and black clothes.
Language
New Brunswick is Canada’s only officially bilingual province, although only about one third of the population speaks both French and English (compared to 17% nationwide). Around 34% of the population is of French ancestry, concentrated around Edmundston, the Acadian Peninsula, along the east coast and Moncton. You will rarely have a problem being understood in English or French.
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LAND & CLIMATE
The province encompasses a varied geography of moist, rocky coastal areas, temperate inland river valleys and a heavily forested and mountainous interior. There are four distinct seasons. Summers are generally mild with occasional hot days. The Fundy shore is prone to fog, particularly in the spring and early summer. The primary tourist season lasts from late June to early September. Many tourist facilities (beaches, organized tours and some accommodations in resort areas) shut down for the remainder of the year.
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PARKS & WILDLIFE
New Brunswick has two national parks. Kouchibouguac National Park encompasses a serene land and seascape of tidal marshes and estuaries, sand dunes, beaches and forest. Fundy National Park is a big chunk of rugged coastline on the Bay of Fundy. There are 12 provincial parks scattered throughout the province. The standouts are Mount Carleton for hiking and paddling; Spednik Lake for multiday canoe-tripping; Sugarloaf for skiing and hiking; and Parlee Beach and New River Beach for swimming. There are also several designated historical sites including colonial forts and homes of prominent people. The Fundy Coast is a major bird migration corridor, with great viewing in spring, summer and fall. Other creatures of interest include black bear, moose and deer, which inhabit rural and wilderness areas, whales in the Bay of Fundy, and Atlantic salmon in the Miramichi River.
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INFORMATION
All of New Brunswick’s English daily newspapers and most of the weeklies, private radio and even the free entertainment tabloids are owned by the province’s most powerful economic and political interest – the Irving family (Click here). The lone independent voices are the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (CBC), owned by the federal government, and the French newspaper L’Acadie Nouvelle. For local news, read the Telegraph Journal, or tune into CBC Radio One (Saint John FM91.3, Fredericton FM99.5, Moncton AM1070). For concert listings and events, pick up the free [here] tabloid in Fredericton, Saint John and Moncton.
NEW BRUNSWICK ITINERARIES
Four Days
One Week
Outdoor Adventures
Canoe maps for the Nepisiquit, Restigouche, Southwest Miramichi, St Croix and Tobique Rivers are available from Service New Brunswick (
506-460-6136; www.snb.ca; $7 each). It also distributes a guide to the New Brunswick Trail ($13) and a snowmobile trail map (free).
If you have a few more days
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GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are tourist information centers at all border crossings and in most towns. These are open from mid-May to mid-October only.
AIR
Air Canada has several daily flights from Halifax, Montreal and Toronto into Moncton, Saint John and Fredericton. Moncton has service from Calgary, Toronto and Ottawa on WestJet; and a daily direct flight from Newark on Continental. Fredericton has a daily direct flight to Boston on Delta and beginning in April 2008 direct service to Gatwick on AirTransat May to October. WestJet also flies into Saint John from Toronto three times a week. Click here for airline contact details.
BOAT
The Bay Ferries’ Princess of Acadia (506-649-7777, 888-249-7245; www.bayferries.com; adult/child 0-5 yrs/child 6-13 yrs/senior $40/5/25/30, car/bicycle $100/20) sails between Saint John and Digby, Nova Scotia, year-round. The three-hour crossing can save a lot of driving.
From Saint John between late June and early September, departure times are 9am and 4:45pm daily with an additional 12:45am crossing on Tuesday and Thursday. From Digby, departure times are 1pm and 8:45pm with an additional 5am sailing on Tuesday and Thursday. During the rest of the year, ferries run once or twice daily in both directions.
Arrive early or call ahead for vehicle reservations (additional fee $5), as the ferry is very busy in July and August. Even with a reservation, arrive an hour before departure. Walk-ons and cyclists should be OK any time. There’s a restaurant and a bar.
For Fundy Isles ferries, see the section dedicated to the islands Click here. Book ahead where possible and/or arrive early.
BUS
Acadian Lines (800-567-5151; www.acadianbus.com) services the major transportation routes in New Brunswick, with service to Nova Scotia, PEI and into Québec as far as Rivière du Loup where they connect with Orléans Express (888-999-3977; www.orleansexpress.com) buses for points west.
Acadian also runs south to Bangor, Maine from Saint John ($44, five hours) with onward service to Boston and New York. For information on the daily bus service between Bangor and Calais, Click here.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
For drivers, the main access points into New Brunswick are through Edmundston, Maine at Calais and Houlton, Nova Scotia, or Prince Edward Island (PEI). If you’re going to PEI, there’s no charge to use the Confederation Bridge eastbound from Cape Jourmain – you pay on the way back. Traffic is generally light, although crossing the Maine border usually means a delay at customs.
TRAIN
VIA Rail (888-842-7245; www.viarail.ca) operates passenger services between Montréal and Halifax six times a week. Main New Brunswick stops are Campbellton, Miramichi and Moncton. Fares from Montréal to Moncton for a coach/sleeper are $197/433 (15½ hours).
REGIONAL DRIVING DISTANCES
- Edmundston to Saint John: 375km
- Fredericton to Miramichi: 180km
- St Andrews to Moncton: 254km
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FREDERICTON
pop 47,600
The St John River curves lazily through the provincial capital, past the edifices of government on the waterfront and the university on the hill above the city. Its grassy banks are mowed and dotted with fountains, walking paths, playing fields, tall elms and willows. This stretch of riverfront parkland is known locally rather quaintly as ‘The Green.’
Fredericton does quaint very well. The small downtown commercial district is a neat grid of redbrick storefronts. Surrounding it are quiet residential streets lined with tall, graceful elms shading beautifully maintained Georgian and Victorian houses and abundant flowerbeds. A canopy of trees spreads over the downtown, pierced here and there by church spires.
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HISTORY
Three hundred years ago, Maliseet and Mi’kmaq Aboriginals lived and fished here. The French followed in 1732 but were eventually burned out by the British, who brought in 2000 Loyalists fleeing the United States after the American Revolution.
Fredericton really came into its own the next year when the British government decided to form a new province by splitting New Brunswick away from Nova Scotia. Lieutenant governor Thomas Carleton visited St Anne’s Point and was impressed with its strategic location on the St John River, suitable for receiving large ships and practically in the center of the new province. In 1785, he not only made it the provincial capital and the base for a British garrison but renamed it Fredericstown in honor of Sir Frederick, Duke of York and the second son of King George III.
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ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The historical city center is built on a flat, broad curve in the riverbank. The Westmorland St Bridge connects the downtown area with the north shore residential areas. Further east, Hwy 8 crosses the river on the Princess Margaret Bridge. Coming into town from the Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 2), take Regent St straight down to the heart of town.
- Dr Everett Chalmers Hospital (506-452-5400; 700 Priestman St)
- Fredericton Medical Clinic (506-458-0200; 1015 Regent St;
6pm-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) - Fredericton Public Library (506-460-2800; 4 Carleton St; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Wed & Fri) Free internet access is first-come, first-served.
- Main Post Office (506-444-8602; 570 Queen St; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) General delivery mail addressed to Fredericton, NB E3B 4Y1, is kept here.
- Police, Ambulance & Fire (911) For emergencies.
- Reid’s News Stand & Cafe (506-454-5333; 435 King St) Carries newspapers and magazines from around the world.
- Visitors Centre (506-460-2129, 888-888-4768; www.fredericton.ca; City Hall, 397 Queen St; 8am-4:15pm Mon-Fri Oct-May, 8am-8pm Jun-Sep) Free city parking passes provided here.
- Westminster Books (506-454-1442; 445 King St) Stocks regional authors.
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SIGHTS
Historic Garrison District
The two-block strip along Queen St between York and Regent Sts, a national historic site, housed British soldiers for nearly 100 years commencing in 1784. It’s now a lively, multiuse area utilizing the site’s fine stone architecture.
At Officers’ Sq (btwn Carleton & Regent Sts), once the military parade ground, see the full-uniform changing of the guard ceremony at 11am and 4pm mid-July to the third week in August, with additional performances Tuesday and Thursday at 7pm. Also in summer the Calithumpians Outdoor Summer Theatre performs daily at 12:15pm weekdays and 2pm weekends. The free historical skits are laced with humor.
York-Sunbury Historical Museum (506-455-6041; Officers’ Sq; adult/student/family $3/1/6; 10am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, 1-4pm Tue-Sat Apr–mid-Dec), on the west side of the square, is in the old officers’ quarters built between 1839 and 1851. The museum has a collection from the city’s past: military pieces used by local regiments and by British and German armies from the Boer War and both world wars; furniture from a Loyalist sitting room and a Victorian bedroom; aboriginal and Acadian artifacts and archaeological finds.
The Soldiers’ Barracks (cnr Queen & Carleton Sts; admission free; Jun-Sep) gives you an idea of how the common soldier lived in the 1820s (lousy food, too much drink). The Guard House (15 Carleton St; admission free; Jul & Aug) from 1828 indicates more of the day-to-day hardships but the conditions for those held in cells were truly nasty. Threaten your kids! The lower section of the barracks is now used as artisan studios.
Beaverbrook Art Gallery
This relatively small but excellent gallery (506-458-8545; www.beaverbrookartgallery.org; 703 Queen St; adult/senior/student/family $8/6/3/18, pay as you wish Thu after 5:30pm; 9am-5:30pm, until 9pm on Thu, noon-5pm Sun Sep-Jun) was one of Lord Beaverbrook’s gifts to the town. The exceptional collection includes works by international heavyweights and is well worth an hour or so. Among others you will see Constable, Dali, Gainsborough and Turner, Canadian artists Tom Thompson, Emily Carr, and Kreighoff as well as changing contemporary exhibits of Atlantic art.
Legislative Assembly
Built in 1880, this government building (506-453-2527; 706 Queen St; admission & tours free; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May; tours every 30min late May-late Aug & by appointment rest of year) is a marvel of craftsmanship and detailing. When the Legislative Assembly is not in session, guides can show you around. When the assembly is in session, visitors are welcome to observe.
Old Government House
This magnificent stone palace (506-453-6440/2505; 51 Woodstock Rd; admission free; 10am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–mid-Jun) was erected for the British governor in 1826. The representative of the queen moved out in 1893 after the province refused to continue paying his expenses, and during most of the 20th century the complex was a Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) headquarters. It now evocatively captures a moment in time with tours led by staff in period costume. New Brunswick’s current lieutenant governor (an artist and playwright) lives on the 3rd floor.
WHAT THE…?
Clippermen’s Barbershop (506-457-6266; 56 Regent St; haircut with/without beer $12/8.50; 9am-5pm Mon-Wed, to 7pm Thu & Fri, to 1:45pm Sat) takes the edge off a new ‘do with a few brewskies. Canada’s only licensed barbershop lets you sip while they clip. Oh what the hell, you know you always wanted a mullet!
Christ Church Cathedral
Built in 1853, this cathedral (off Queen St at Church St; tours free; tours on demand mid-Jun–Aug) is a fine early example of the 19th-century revival of decorated Gothic architecture and has exquisite stained glass. It was modeled after St Mary’s in Snettisham, Norfolk.
Old Burial Ground
The Loyalist cemetery (Brunswick St, at Carleton St; 8am-9pm), dating back to 1784, is an atmospheric, thought-provoking history lesson of its own, revealing large families and kids dying tragically young. The Loyalists arrived from the 13 colonies after the American Revolution of 1776.
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ACTIVITIES
The Small Craft Aquatic Centre (506-460-2260; off Woodstock Rd; mid-May–early Oct), on the St John River beside Old Government House, rents out canoes, kayaks and rowboats at $10 an hour. On offer are weekly passes, guided canoe and kayak tours, one-hour to three-day river ecology trips, and instruction in either canoeing or kayaking.
There are 70 km of recreational trails around town and along the river that either begin or intersect at Adventure Centre Lighthouse (cnr Regent St & St Anne Point Dr). They range from 700m to 10.2km. Pick up a map at City Hall. For bike rentals, Click here.
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TOURS
From July to Labour Day, enthusiastic young people wearing historic costumes lead good, free hour-long Heritage Walking Tours incorporating fun, folklore and history. Tours depart from City Hall at 10am, 2:30pm and 5pm daily. Ultra-popular Haunted Hikes (tours $13; 9:15pm Mon-Sat Jul-Sep) are given by the same, suddenly ghoulish, thespians, departing from the Coach House at Gallery 78, 796a Queen St.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
- Notable Acts Summer Theatre Festival (506-458-7406; www.nbacts.com; end Jul-early Aug) Showcases new and noted playwrights with street and theater presentations.
- Harvest Jazz & Blues Festival (888-622-5837; www.harvestjazzandblues.com; early Sep) Week-long event transforms the downtown area into the ‘New Orleans of the North’ when jazz, blues and Dixieland performers arrive from across North America.
- Silver Wave Film Festival (506-455-1632; www.swfilmfest.com; early Nov) Three days of New Brunswick, Canadian and international films and lectures organized by the NB Filmmaker’s Cooperative.
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SLEEPING
Fredericton International Hostel (506-450-4417; fredericton@hihostels.ca; 621 Churchill Row; HI members/nonmembers dm $16/20, s $20/24; office 7am-noon & 6-10pm; 
) In a rambling, older residence hall, this hostel welcomes a mix of students and visitors. Often travelers luxuriate in their own room.
Brennan’s B&B (506-455-7346; www.bbcanada.com/3892.html; 221 Church St; r incl breakfast $85-105; 
) There are three tasteful rooms in this sizable, turreted Victorian house. It’s close to the river in the quiet, historic district, a short walk from the main attractions. Wind down on the front porch swing.
Town and Country Motel (506-454-4223; 967 Woodstock Rd; s & d $90, tw $100; ) In a quiet riverside setting, you’ll find sparkling clean and bright modern rooms with kitchenettes and big picture windows framing a gorgeous view of the river. It’s on the walking/cycling path 3km from the city center.
Carriage House Inn (506-452-9924, 800-267-6068; www.bbcanada.com/4658.html; 230 University Ave; s incl breakfast $95-125, d $100-140; wi-fi) This beautifully restored 1875 Victorian mansion near the Green has old-fashioned elegance combined with relaxed comfort. The grand common room is furnished with polished hardwood floors, antiques, comfy sofas, fireplaces and grand piano. The 10 high-ceilinged guest rooms upstairs feature four-poster beds, period wallpapers and original artwork. There is a deep verandah for lounging.
Delta Fredericton (506-457-7000, 888-462-8800; www.deltafredericton.com; 225 Woodstock Rd; r $160-204; 
) Plush digs on the water’s edge at the western end of the riverfront Green. All the amenities of the upscale hotel chain plus a secluded patio bar with a fabulous view of the river and nearby islands.
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EATING
For a small city, Fredericton offers a wide, cosmopolitan cross-section of restaurants and most are in the walkable core.
Boyce Farmers’ Market (506-451-1815; 665 George St; 6am-1pm Sat) This Fredericton institution is great for picking up fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and cheese. Mixed in among the 150 or so stands are some selling handicrafts, homemade desserts and flowers. There is also a restaurant where Frederictonians queue to catch up and people-watch.
Dimitri’s Souvlaki (506-452-8882; 349 King St; lunch $6-10, dinner $13-17; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat) Reliable Dimitri’s has been presenting a broad menu of Greek taverna classics such as brochettes and moussaka since 1988. Enjoy your meal on the rooftop patio.
M&T Deli (506-458-9068; 602 Queen St; lunch under $7; 7:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, 7:30am-3:30pm Fri) A cheerful little spot for breakfast or lunch, with a few tables and big windows overlooking the main street. Daily lunch specials include Jambalaya with cornbread, quiche and salad and a range of wholesome, hefty sandwiches.
El Burrito Loco (506-459-5626; 304 King St; lunch $7-9, dinner $10-18; 11:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat, 4-9pm Sun) Feast your eyes (and your stomach) at this crazy cantina lit by sombreros. The largely authentic, south-of-the-border food, including tamales and enormous burritos, is savory, plentiful and never greasy. The Mexican drinks go down well with the Latin music, too. Don’t miss the homemade gelato.
Caribbean Flavas (506-459-1230; 123 York St; lunch $10-13, dinner $20; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 4-9pm Sat) A bright nook dishing up the tastes and colors of the Caribbean. Great for a casual, flavorful meal. No alcohol.
Chocolaterie and Patisserie Fackleman (506-450-2520; 2785 Woodstock Rd; mains $10-13; 11am-6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 11am-5pm Thu, closed Sun & Mon) Located about 6km from downtown Fredericton on the riverfront trail, this is great destination for cyclists. Have a freshly-made pastry and iced coffee under the trees or a hearty German meal in the homey schnitzel parlor. Open for dinner by reservation only.
Blue Door (506-455-2583; 100 Regent St; mains $8-20; 11:30am-10pm) Primary colors dominate the design inside and out at this local hotspot. Dishes range from coconut curry with mussels and maple baked salmon to pasta incorporating local sausage and mushrooms.
Chez Riz (506-454-9996; 366 Queen St; mains $15-20; 11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Mon-Sat) Delicious Indian and Pakistani cuisine in a darkly stylish, romantically lit cave of a place.
Palate (506-450-7911; 462 Queen St; mains $15-23; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A more formal setting for well-prepared continental dining with contemporary flair and a seasonally changing menu. The Atlantic salmon is superb.
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DRINKING
Fredericton has embraced the coffee culture in several appealing venues. In the evenings, the bars, pubs and rooftop patios clustered around the old Tannery in Piper’s Lane come alive.
Trinitea’s Cup Fine Teas (506-458-8327; 87 Regent St; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-7pm Sun) This pretty pink tea parlor serves traditional English cream teas, soups and sandwiches.
Second Cup (506-455-2326; 440 King St in Kings Place Mall; 6:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) Warm lighting, world beat music and the aroma of fresh roasted coffee beans draw a loyal clientele of office workers, passersby and aspiring novelists toiling away on their laptops.
Dolan’s Pub (506-454-7474; Piper’s Lane; cover charge $5; closed Sun) Dolan’s presents live Celtic/Maritime music Thursday to Saturday nights beginning around 10pm. Pub meals are served daily, too.
Lunar Rogue Pub (506-450-2065; 625 King St; 11-1am) Lunar Rogue has a good beer selection and a fine assortment of single malts. Try Picaroons, the local microbrew and enjoy summer on the patio.
Boom! Nightclub (463-2666; 474 Queen St; 8pm-2am Thu-Sat, 4-7pm & 10pm-2am Sun; $5 cover charge) A hip gay bar and dance club welcoming folks of all stripes.
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ENTERTAINMENT
The Playhouse (506-458-8344; www.theplayhouse.nb.ca; 686 Queen St) stages concerts, theater, ballet and shows throughout the year. On Sundays in summer, catch a New Brunswick-made short film paired with a golden oldie outdoors at the Under the Stars Classic Film Series (Barrack’s Sq; admission free; at dusk/around 9:30pm Sun late Jun-early Sep). Flop on the grass in Officer’s Sq to hear Outdoor Summer Concerts (admission free; 7:30pm Tue, rain date Wed) featuring live local music ranging from highland bagpipes and drums to country and blues. For the scoop on concerts, art gallery openings and other happenings around town, pick up a copy of [here] (www.herenb.com), a free entertainment weekly available all over town.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Fredericton airport is on Hwy 102, 14km southeast of town. Click here for flight details.
Bus
The bus station (506-458-6000; 101 Regent St; 7:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8:30pm Sat & Sun) is very central. Schedules and fares to some destinations include: Moncton ($35, 2¼ hours, two daily); Charlottetown, PEI ($55, 5½ hours, two daily) and Bangor, Maine ($44, 7½ hours, one daily) and Saint John ($22, 1½ hours, two daily).
Car & Motorcycle
Cars with out-of-province license plates are eligible for a free three-day parking pass for downtown Fredericton May to October, available at the Fredericton Tourism Office at 11 Carleton St. In-province visitors can get a one-day pass. Avis, Budget, Hertz and National car rental agencies (Click here) all have desks at the airport and downtown.
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GETTING AROUND
A taxi to the airport costs $16. Bicycle rentals are available at Radical Edge (506-459-3478; 386 Queen St; per hr/day $5/25).
The city has a decent bus system, Fredericton Transit (506-460-2200); tickets cost $1.60 and include free transfers. Service is halved on weekends. Most city bus routes begin at King’s Place Mall, on King St between York and Carleton.
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UPPER ST JOHN RIVER VALLEY
The St John River rises in the US state of Maine, then winds along the western border of the province past forests and beautiful lush farmland, drifts through Fredericton between tree-lined banks and flows around flat islands between rolling hills before emptying into the Bay of Fundy 700km later. The broad river is the province’s dominant feature and for centuries its major thoroughfare. The valley’s soft, eye-pleasing landscape make for scenic touring by car, or by bicycle on the Trans Canada Trail (Click here), which follows the river for most of its length.
Two automobile routes carve through the valley: the quicker Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 2), mostly on the west side of the river, and the more scenic old Hwy 105 on the east side, which meanders through many villages. Branching off from the valley are Hwy 17 (at St Leonard) and Rte 385 (at Perth-Andover), which cut northeast through the Appalachian highlands and lead to rugged Mt Carleton Provincial Park.
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KING’S LANDING HISTORICAL SETTLEMENT
One of the province’s best sites, the worthwhile re-creation of an early 19th-century Loyalist village (506-363-4999; www.kingslanding.nb.ca; adult/family $14/30; 10am-5pm Jun–mid-Oct) is 36km west of Fredericton. A community of 100 costumed staff create a living museum by role-playing in 11 houses, a school, church, store and sawmill typical of those used a century ago, providing a glimpse and taste of pioneer life in the Maritimes. Demonstrations and events are staged throughout the day and horse-drawn carts shunt visitors around. The prosperous Loyalist life reflected here can be tellingly compared to that at the Acadian Historic Village in Caraquet. The King’s Head Inn, a mid-1800s pub, serves traditional food and beverages, with a nice authentic touch – candlelight. The children’s programs make King’s Landing ideal for families, and special events occur regularly. It’s not hard to while away a good half-day or more here.
About 10km south, busy, resort-like Mactaquac Provincial Park (day use per vehicle $5) has swimming, fishing, hiking, picnic sites, camping, boat rentals and a huge campground (506-363-4747; 1256 Hwy 105; mid-May–early Oct; tent/RV sites $23/26).
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WOODSTOCK
Founded by Loyalist settlers in the 1780s, Woodstock is New Brunswick’s oldest incorporated town (1856). Situated where the Meduxnekeag River flows into the St John River, it has a historical core of lovingly preserved Victorian homes and public buildings. Explore on your own armed with a walking tour pamphlet available at the Town Hall (824 Main St) or take a guided tour led by Jeff Dingle (506-328-4853; tour $12; 6:30pm Mon-Fri Jul-Aug) departing from the LP Fisher Public Library. Outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate the 10km hiking/cycling path to and loop trails through the woods of the Meduxnekeag Valley Nature Preserve (www.meduxnekeag.org), starting from the New Brunswick Community College parking lot.
Bennett House B&B (506-325-2608; www.bennetthouse.ca; 698 Main St; s incl breakfast $75, d $85; wi-fi) is a beautifully restored 1878 Victorian home filled with antiques. They also do a three-course gourmet dinner by reservation Thursday to Saturday ($25). Fusion Coffee Company (506-328-6942; 612 Main St; dishes $6-8; 6am-10pm Mon-Thu, 6am-11pm Fri, 8am-11pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; wi-fi) is a coffee house, café and bar worth pulling off the highway for. It serves colorful, healthful fare like quiche, soups, salads, sandwiches, luscious desserts, coffee, a local microbrew and martinis to world beat music.
Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving convenience store (506-328-2245; 371 Connell St).
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HARTLAND
Hartland is a minute village in a pretty setting, and it’s got the granddaddy of New Brunswick’s many wooden covered bridges. The photogenic 390m-long Hartland covered bridge over the St John River was erected in 1897 and is a national historic site. The picnic tables overlooking the river and the bridge at the tourist information center are five-star lunch spots (fixings at the grocery store across the road). Otherwise, the village has a rather forlorn atmosphere.
Rebecca Farm B&B (506-375-1699; www.rebeccafarm.com; 656 Rockland Rd; d incl breakfast $100-130; ) Around 4km from the town center, this scrupulously maintained 19th-century farmhouse sits in the midst of potato fields. Check-in is after 5pm. Your best option for a sit-down meal in town is friendly Kalija’s (506-375-6182; Main St at Prince St; mains $6-10; 8am-7pm in Jul & Aug, 9am-2pm Mon-Sat & closed Sun Sep-Jun).
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FLORENCEVILLE & AROUND
The tidy and green riverside village of Florenceville is ground zero of the global french fry industry – home to McCain Foods frozen foods empire, sustained by the thousands of acres of potato farms that surround it in every direction. Started by the McCain brothers in 1957 and still owned by the family, the company produces one third of the world’s french fry supply at its Florenceville factory and 30 like it worldwide. That adds up to one million pounds of chips churned out every hour and $5.8 billion in annual net sales.
SCENIC DRIVE: LOWER ST JOHN RIVER VALLEY
Start on the north side of the river in Fredericton, and follow Rte 105 south through Maugerville to Jemseg. At Exit 339, pick up Rte 715 South which will take you to the Gagetown ferry landing (admission free; 24hr, year-round). This is the first of a system of eight free cable ferries that crisscross the majestic St John River en route to the city of Saint John. You will never have to wait more that a few minutes for the crossing, which generally takes five to 10 minutes.
When you reach the opposite bank, head north a couple of miles to visit the pretty 18th-century village of Gagetown – well worth a look-see. Front Street is lined with craft studios and shops and a couple of inviting cafés. Stop into the excellent Queen’s County Museum (506-488-2966; 69 Front St; admission $2; 10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Jun) housed in Sir Leonard Tilley’s childhood home, built in 1736. The top-notch staff will show you through the exhibits spanning pre-colonial aboriginal history in the area, 18th-century settler life, and up to WWII. Gagetown Cider Company (506-488-2147; 127 Fox Rd; 1-6pm) offers tours by appointment.
Explore scenic Gagetown Creek by boat. Village Boatique (877-488-1992; 50 Front St) has canoe/kayak rentals for $10/15 per hour, $50/75 per day. Charming Step-Aside Inn (506-488-1808; 58 Front St; stepamau@nbnet.nb.ca; s/d incl breakfast $85/95; ) has bright airy rooms with views of the river. Gagetown Camping (506-488-2567; www.gagetowncamping.com; 1805 Rte 102; unserviced/serviced $18/25; May-Sep) offers tenting and recreational vehicle sites in a field 10km north of the village.
From Gagetown, head south on Rte 102, known locally as ‘the Old River Road,’ denoting its status as the major thoroughfare up the valley in the kinder, simpler era between the decline of the river steamboats and the construction of the modern divided highway. The grand old farmhouses and weathered hay barns dotted at hundred acre intervals along the valley belong to that earlier age. The hilly 42km piece of road between Gagetown and the ferry landing at Evandale (admission free; 24hr, year-round) is especially picturesque, with glorious panoramic views of fields full of wildflowers, white farm houses and clots of green and gold islands set in the intensely blue water of the river.
A hundred years ago, Evandale was a bustling little place, where a dance band would entertain riverboat passengers stopping off for the night at the now abandoned Everleigh Hotel (the big Victorian mansion up from the ferry landing). On the other side of the water, Rte 124 takes you the short distance to the Belleisle ferry (admission free; 24hr, year-round). The ferry deposits you on the rural Kingston Peninsula, where you can cross the peninsula to catch the Gondola Point Ferry (admission free; 24hr, year-round) and head directly into Saint John.
Worth a stop is the Potato World Museum (506-392-1955; www.potatoworld.ca; Rte 110; adult/child $5/3; 10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm May, Jun, Sep & Oct). It’s a cheesy name, but the museum is a tasteful, top-class interactive exposition of the history of the humble potato in these parts and its continuing centrality to the provincial economy. In this area, school kids are still given two weeks off in the autumn to help bring in the harvest. Especially engaging are the archival photographs and recorded oral histories of local elders recounting a hardscrabble life growing up in the New Brunswick potato belt. If all the spud talk leaves you peckish, slip into a potato barrel chair at the on-site Harvest Cafe (lunch $5-7; 11am-2pm Mon-Sat, 12:30-3pm Sun) to sample the creamy potato soup, tangy sliced potato and green bean salad, various wraps and sandwiches and french fries done six different ways. The museum is 2km off Hwy 2 at Exit 152 toward Centreville on Rte 110.
If you are cycling up the valley on the Trans Canada Trail (Click here) or looking for a bed for the night, there are two appealing options in the area. About 22km north of Florenceville is Muniac Park Campground (506-273-3254/278-3650; 11122 Rte 105, Muniac; unserviced sites $15-20, serviced $16-22; May-Sep) with attractive sites tucked under the trees along the edges of a small field and hot showers. It’s cash only. A luxe alternative just outside Florenceville is the Tannaghtyn B&B (506-392-6966/866-399-6966; www.tannaghtyn.ca; 4169 Rte 103 off Rte 110, Connell; r incl breakfast $90-125; wi-fi) set high on a ridge with a spectacular view of the St John River and the green and gold patchwork of farms on the opposite side. Both stylish and cozy, the house is furnished with dramatic Canadian art, comfy sofas, beds made up with linens dried in the fresh country air, and there’s a hot tub under the stars. Besides the Harvest Cafe (see opposite), Florenceville has a half-dozen middle-of-the-road restaurants serving three meals a day.
Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving Mainway (392-6050; 313 Main St) gas station in Florenceville.
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MT CARLETON & THE TOBIQUE VALLEY
From his workshop on the forested banks of the Tobique River at the foot of Mt Carleton, Nictau canoe-maker Bill Miller rhapsodizes that ‘If you telephone heaven, it’s a local call.’ He may be right.
The 17,427-hectare Provincial Park offers visitors a wilderness of mountains, valleys, rivers and wildlife including moose, deer, bear and, potentially, the ‘extinct’ but regularly seen eastern cougar. The main feature of the park is a series of rounded glaciated peaks and ridges, including Mt Carleton, which at 820m is the Maritimes’ highest. This range is an extension of the Appalachian Mountains, which begin in the US state of Georgia and end in Québec. Mt Carleton is little known and relatively unvisited, even in midsummer. It could be the province’s best-kept secret.
Orientation & Information
The park is open from mid-May to October; entry is free. Hunting and logging are prohibited in the park, and all roads are gravel-surfaced. The nearest town is Riley Brook, 30km away, so bring all food and a full tank of gas.
At the entrance to the park is a visitors centre (506-235-0793; www.gnb.ca/0078/Carleton; off Rte 385; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun May-Oct) for maps and information. There is also another office (506-235-6040; dnr.Mt.carleton@gnb.ca; 11 Gagnon St), the park headquarters, in St Quentin.
Activities
CANOEING
The Mt Carleton area boasts superb wilderness canoeing. In the park itself, the Nictau and Nipisiguit chains of lakes offer easy day-tripping through a landscape of tree-clad mountains. For experienced canoeists, the shallow and swift Little Tobique River rises at Big Nictau Lake, winding in tight curls through dense woods until it joins the Tobique itself at Nictau. The more remote Nepisiguit River flows out of the Nepisiguit Lakes through the wilderness until it empties into the Bay of Chaleur at Bathurst, over 100 kilometers away.
The lower reaches of the Tobique, from Nictau, through minute Riley Brook and down to Plaster Rock is a straight, easy paddle through forest and meadow that gives way to farmland as the valley broadens, with a couple of waterfront campgrounds along the way. The easy 10km between Nictau and the Bear’s Lair landing in Riley Brook makes for a relaxing afternoon paddle.
Don McAskill at Bear’s Lair (506-356-8351; www.bearslairhunting.com; 3349 Rte 385, Riley Brook) has boats for $40 a day and can provide expert knowledge on canoeing in these parts. He also offers a shuttle service between your put-in and take-out point (eg boat delivery to Mt Carleton Provincial Park and transport of your vehicle down to Riley Brook is $40). In the park, Guildo Martel (506-235-2499) rents canoes and kayaks for the day on the edge of Big Nictau Lake at Armstrong Campground.
Fiddles on the Tobique (506-356-8549; late Jun) is a weekend festival held annually in Nictau and Riley Brook. It is a magical idea: a round of community hall suppers, jam sessions and concerts culminating in a Sunday afternoon floating concert down the Tobique River from Nictau to Riley Brook. Upwards of 800 canoes and kayaks join the flotilla each year – some stocked with musicians, some just with paddlers – and 8000 spectators line the river banks to watch. By some accounts, the event has been damaged by its own popularity, devolving into a boisterous booze cruise. Others call it a grand party and good fun.
On land, Bill Miller (506-356-2409; www.millercanoes.com; 4160 Rte 385, Nictau) welcomes visitors to his cluttered canoe-making workshop in Nictau (pop 16), where he and his father and grandfather before him have handcrafted wooden canoes since 1922. Also worth a stop is the Tobique Salmon Barrier (admission free; 9am-5pm), signposted from the road at Nictau, located at the confluence of the Little Tobique and Campbell Rivers. There is a spectacular view from the Department of Fisheries office situated on a bluff overlooking the water. From here, officers keep a 24-hour watch on the Atlantic salmon, which are trucked up by road from below the Mactaquac Dam at Fredericton and held here until spawning time, in order to protect their dwindling numbers from poachers.
WORTH THE TRIP: FALLS BROOK CENTRE
Tucked into the gorgeous rolling green hills of Carleton County, Falls Brook Centre (506-375-8143; www.fallsbrookcentre.ca; 125 South Knowlesville Rd, Knowlesville; admission $2; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) is a little piece of hippie heaven with a back-to-the-land philosophy that is coming back in fashion. The knowledgeable staff oversee demonstration projects devoted to organic agriculture, wind and solar power, biodiesel production and straw-bale construction. You can tour the site, hike 10km of forest trails and enjoy the view atop Skedaddle Ridge (named for the American Civil War draft-dodgers who settled here), or sign up for a weekend workshop (a calendar of events is on the website). If you’d like to stay longer, the center is one of 13 farms throughout the province that participates in the Willing Workers on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.ca) program, which lets you try on the rural lifestyle for one to four weeks. Falls Brook also coordinates the six-month New Brunswick Organic Farm Apprenticeship Program at 11 farms throughout the province.
HIKING
The best way to explore Mt Carleton is on foot. The park has a 62km network of trails, most of them are loops winding to the handful of rocky knobs that are the peaks. The International Appalachian Trail (IAT; Click here) passes through here.
The easiest peak to climb is Mt Bailey; a 7.5km loop trail to the 564m hillock begins near the day-use area. Most hikers can walk this route in three hours. The highest peak is reached via the Mt Carleton Trail, a 10km route that skirts over the 820m knob, where there’s a fire tower. Plan on three to four hours for the trek and pack your parka; the wind above the tree line can be brutal.
The most scenic hike is the Sagamook Trail, a 6km loop to a 777m peak with superlative vistas of Nictau Lake and the highlands area to the north of it; allow three hours for this trek. The Mountain Head Trail connects the Mt Carleton and Sagamook Trails, making a long transit of the range possible.
All hikers intending to follow any long trails must register at the visitors center or park headquarters before hitting the trail. Outside the camping season (mid-May to mid-September), you should call ahead to make sure the main gate will be open, as the Mt Carleton trailhead is 13.5km from the park entrance. Otherwise park your car at the entrance and walk in – the Mt Bailey trailhead is only 2.5km from the gate.
Sleeping & Eating
There is camping available in the park, and lodging, a general store, gas station and restaur- ant in Riley Brook. With so few sites available, the park campground can occasionally fill up. Reservations are suggested, by sending an email to the park office (Click here) in St Quentin. Williams Brook and Franquelin Campgrounds and the backcountry Headwaters campsite in the park were all closed at the time of research due to government budget cuts.
Armstrong Brook Campground (tent & RV sites Sun-Thu $11, Fri & Sat $11-14; mid-May–Sep) This is a 89-site campground nestled among the pines on the north side of Nictau Lake, 3km from the park entrance. It has toilets, showers and a kitchen shelter, but no sites with hookups. RV drivers often have their noisy generators running, so tenters should check out the eight tent-only sites along Armstrong Brook on the north side of the campground.
Bear’s Lair (506-356-8351; www.bearslairhunting.com; 3349 Rte 385, Riley Brook; r $60; May-Dec; ) If any place in the province captures the essence of life in the north woods, this is it. A grand log hunting lodge set on the banks on the Tobique River, it is busiest during fall hunting season, but is also a supremely relaxing base for hikers, canoeists and wildlife enthusiasts. The high-ceilinged main lodge is adorned with numerous taxidermied specimens and photographs of happy hunters and fishers with the one that didn’t get away. There is also a pool table, big screen TV, floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, a few dining tables and huge picture windows framing a serene view of the river slipping by just a few meters away. The cozy log-walled guest rooms are spick and span and nicely accented with plaid fabrics. A long, deep verandah invites lounging after dinner. The lodge offers meals (great homemade pie for dessert), canoe/kayak rentals and guided hunting trips.
The town of Plaster Rock, situated 54km downriver toward the Trans-Canada Hwy (Rye 385), also has several serviceable motels and a couple of casual restaurants.
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GRAND FALLS
With a drop of around 25m and a 1.6km-long gorge with walls as high as 80m, the falls merit a stop in this one-street town. The Grand Falls are best in spring or after heavy rain. In summer, much of the water is diverted for generating hydroelectricity, yet the gorge appeals any time.
In the middle of town, overlooking the falls, the Malabeam Reception Centre (877-475-7769; 25 Madawaska Rd; admission free; 10am-6pm May, Jun & Sep, 9am-9pm Jul & Aug) doubles as a tourist office. Among the displays is a scale model of the gorge showing its extensive trail system.
A 253-step stairway down into the gorge begins at La Rochelle (877-475-7769; 1 Chapel St; adult/family $4/8; Jun-early Sep), across the bridge from the Malabeam Reception Centre and left on Victoria St. Boats maneuver for 45-minute trips (adult/family $11/27) up the gorge. These run up to eight times a day but only in midsummer when water levels are low (it’s too dangerous when the river is in full flood). Buy the boat ticket at La Rochelle first, as it includes the stairway to the base of the gorge.
There are dramatically situated tent and RV sites at the Falls and Gorge Campground (877-475-7769; 1 Chapel St; unserviced/serviced $17/24; Jun-early Sep). Maple Tourist Home (506-473-1763, 888-840-8222; www.bbcanada.com/4029.html; 142 Main St; d incl breakfast $70-90) is the white, two-story house with the green shutters, offering three attractive rooms in the center of town. Le Grand Salut (506-473-3876; 155 Broadway Blvd; breakfast $5, mains $8-15; 6am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7am-9pm Sun), a popular, two-tiered spot with an inviting deck out front, serves up salads, pastas, brochettes and steaks.
The Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving gas station (506-473-5704; 315 Broadway), right in the center of town. Hwy 108 (known locally as the Renous Hwy) cuts across the province through Plaster Rock to the east coast, slicing through forest for nearly its entirety. It is most tedious, but fast. Watch out for deer and moose.
WORLD CLASS (POND) HOCKEY
Every February, the small forest town of Plaster Rock (pop 1200; 84 km from Mt Carleton) hosts the World Pond Hockey Tournament (506-356-6166; www.worldpondhockey.com; Rte 109, Plaster Rock; admission free; 2nd week in Feb). Twenty rinks are plowed on Roulston Lake, which is ringed by tall evergreens, hot chocolate stands and straw-bale seating for the 8000-odd spectators drawn to the four-day event. The tournament is wildly popular, with 120 amateur four-person teams traveling in from all 13 Canadian provinces and territories, 35 American states to date, and 15 countries as far flung as England, Egypt and the Cayman Islands. Anyone can register to play, but they will have to defeat the Boston Danglers, who scrambled over squads like the Skateful Dead, the Raggedy Ass River Boys and the Boiled Owls to put a lock on the championship trophy several years running.
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EDMUNDSTON
Working-class Edmundston, with a large paper mill, a utilitarian town center and a mainly bilingual French citizenry, doesn’t bother much with tourism. Nevertheless, it makes a convenient stopover for those traveling east from Quebec. The first port of call for most folks is the Provincial Tourist Office (506-735-2747; Hwy 2; 10am-6pm mid-May–early Oct, 8am-9pm Jul & Aug) about 20km north at the Québec border. Halfway between the border and Edmundston in the small community of St Jacques is the New Brunswick Botanical Garden (506-737-5383; off Rte 2; admission $4.75; 9am-6pm Jun-Sep, to 8pm Jul & Aug). Here there are 80,000 plants to brighten your day, all accompanied by classical music! Kids might prefer the insectarium. Edmundston is the eastern terminus of the Petis Témis Interprovincial Linear Park (506-739-1992), a 134km cycling/hiking trail between Edmundston and Rivière-du-Loup, Quebec. It follows an old railbed along the Madawaska River and the shores of Lake Témiscouata, passing by several small villages and campgrounds along the way.
In summer, simple institutional rooms are available at University of Moncton (506-737-5016; www.cuslm.ca in French; 171 Boul Hébert; s/d $26/36; mid-Jun–late Aug). Le Fief Inn (506-735-0400; fax 506-735-0402; 87 Church St; d $100; Jun-Oct) is a welcoming, friendly B&B in a central, substantial heritage house with free movies or books from the expansive in-house library. Several motels line the Hwy and old Hwy 2 (Boul Acadie). For eats, head to Bel Air (506-735-3329; 174 Victoria St, cnr Boul Hébert; mains $6-14; 24hr). A city landmark since the 1950s, this is a total classic right down to the seasoned, uniformed waitresses. The you-name-it menu includes more-than- acceptable Italian, Chinese, seafood and basic Canadian fare.
The bus terminal (506-739-8309; 169 Victoria) is across the street from the Bel Air restaurant.
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WESTERN FUNDY SHORE
Almost the entire southern edge of New Brunswick is presided over by the ever-present, constantly rising and falling, always impressive waters of the Bay of Fundy.
The resort town of St Andrews, the serene Fundy Isles, fine seaside scenery and rich history make this easily one of the most appealing regions of the province. Whale-watching is a thrilling area activity. Most commonly seen are the fin, humpback and minke, and less so, the increasingly rare right whale. Porpoises and dolphins are plentiful. And let’s not overlook the seafood – it’s bountiful and delicious.
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ST STEPHEN
Right on the US border across the river from Calais, Maine, St Stephen is a busy entry point with small town charm and one tasty attraction. It is home to Ganong, a family-run chocolate business operating since 1873, whose products are known around eastern Canada. The five-cent chocolate nut bar was invented by the Ganong brothers in 1910, and they are also credited with developing the heart-shaped box of chocolates seen every- where on Valentine’s Day.
The tourist office (506-466-7390; cnr Milltown Blvd & King St; 10am-6pm Jun & Sep, 8am-9pm Jul & Aug) is in the former train station. The old choc- olate factory on the town’s main street is now the Chocolate Museum (506-466-7848; www.chocolatemuseum.ca; 73 Milltown Blvd; adult/child/family $5/3/15; 9:30am-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Jul-early Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Mar-Jun, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Sep-Nov), with tasteful (and tasty) interactive displays of everything from antique chocolate boxes to manufacturing equipment. The adjacent shop (open daily year-round) sells boxes of Ganong hand-dipped chocolates and is free to visit; it also has Pal O’Mine, a very sweet little bar. The museum also offers a guided heritage walking tour of St Stephen from mid-May through to mid-October (adult/child/family $10/6/25). Once a year, during Chocolate Fest (506-465-5616; www.chocolate-fest.ca; 1st week Aug), the town celebrates all things chocolate with a parade, tours of the factory with unlimited sampling of the goods, and games for the kids.
Sleeping & Eating
Blair House (506-466-2233, 888-972-5247; www.blairhouseinn.nb.ca; 38 Prince William St; s incl breakfast $75-100, d $80-109; ) There are five very comfortable rooms complemented by a quiet garden at this fabulous Victorian home. You can walk the main street easily from here. There are also a few run-down motels on the outskirts of town if you are desperate.
Carman’s Diner (506-466-3528; 164 King St; mains $4-12; 7am-10pm) Home cooking is served up at this 1960s throwback with counter stools and jukeboxes (that sometimes work) at the tables.
Getting There & Away
The Red Rooster Country Store doubles as a bus stop (506-466-2121; Hwy 1 at 5 Old Bay Rd, 4km east of town). There’s a bus service to Saint John ($22) leaving at 4pm daily and 8am Monday to Friday, which connects to Moncton ($44) and Halifax ($69). To Bangor ($30), the bus leaves daily at 4pm. In Bangor, immediate connections are available to Boston and New York.
Across the border in Calais, Maine, West’s Coastal Connection (800-596-2823) buses connect to Bangor. They leave from the Angelhom restaurant, but call to confirm the location as this changes. In Bangor, buses use the Greyhound terminal and connect to Bangor airport. Greyhound passes cannot be used from Calais.
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ST ANDREWS BY-THE-SEA
St Andrews is a genteel summer resort town. Blessed with a fine climate and picturesque beauty, it also has a colorful history. Founded by Loyalists in 1783, it’s one of the oldest towns in the province. Busy with holidaymakers and summer residents in July and August, the rest of the year there are more seagulls than people.
Orientation & Information
Water St, the main street, is lined with restaurants, souvenir and craft shops and some places to stay. King St is its main cross street. The main tourist office (506-529-3555; www.townofstandrews.ca; 46 Reed Ave; 8am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm mid-May–Jun & Sep-early Oct) has free walking-tour brochures that include a map and brief description of 34 noteworthy places, and free internet access.
Sights
Huntsman Aquarium Museum (506-529-1202; www.huntsmanmarine.ca/aquapreview.htm; 1 Lower Campus Rd; adult/child $7.50/5; 10am-5pm mid-May–late Sep), 2km northwest of the blockhouse, is part of the independent not-for-profit Huntsman Marine Science Research Centre. The aquarium features most specimens found in local waters, including seals (feedings at 11am and 4pm) and sharks. Kids love the touch pool. The research center also offers week-long summer field courses for amateur enthusiasts (both students and adults).
Minister’s Island Historic Site (506-529-5081; adult/child $5/2.50; May-Oct) was used as a summer retreat by William Cornelius van Horne, builder of the Canadian Pacific Railway. His former cottage of 50 rooms and the unusual bathhouse with its tidal swimming pool can be visited at low tide when you can drive on the hard-packed sea floor. A few hours later it’s 3m under water. Be careful! Two-hour visits, by tour only, run once or twice a day, depending on the tides. You must use your own vehicle.
Extensive, multihued Kingsbrae Garden (506-529-3335, 866-566-8687; 220 King St; adult/senior & student/family $9.50/8/23, plus $2 per person for a personal guided tour by reservation or by chance; 9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Oct) is considered one of the best horticultural displays in Canada.
St Croix Island Viewpoint (Hwy 127 N, 9km off Hwy 1; admission free; 24hr), 8km from town, overlooks the tiny island in the St Croix River where in 1604 French explorer Samuel de Champlain spent his first winter in North America.
Sunbury Shores Arts & Nature Centre (506-529-3386; www.sunburyshores.org; 139 Water St; admission free; 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri & noon-4pm Sat year-round, plus noon-4pm Sun May-Sep) is a nonprofit educational and cultural center offering courses in painting, weaving, pottery and other crafts for a day, weekend or week, as well as natural science seminars. Various changing exhibits run through summer.
WORTH THE TRIP: CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES
Tucked away on New Brunswick’s southeast border with the USA state of Maine is a little-known but spectacular chain of wilderness lakes. Stretching for 180km along the international border, the forest-ringed Chiputneticook Lakes offer canoeing enthusiasts the chance to slip away into the wild for a few weeks. The nonprofit St Croix International Waterway Commission (506-466-7550; www.stcroix.org; 5 Rte 1, St Stephen) maintains a network of backcountry campsites on the islands and lake shores along the chain and publishes a detailed map of the waterway ($9). It includes the St Croix River, a popular three- to four-day paddling route beginning south of the lakes. There are a couple of fishing lodges on Palfrey Lake accessible via Rte 630. Day-trippers can use the scenic lake-shore campsites at Spednik Lake Provincial Park (free; maintained by volunteers) where there is a hiking trail through the woods, primitive toilets and fire rings. Bring your own water. Take Rte 3 north from St Stephen then bear left on Rte 630 to reach the park gate. Canoe rentals are available in Saint John and Fredericton. Note: the lakes are not patrolled by the park service, and paddlers should be experienced and well-equipped.
The restored wooden Blockhouse Historic Site (506-529-4270; Joe’s Point Rd; admission free; 9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm early Sep) is the only one left of several that were built here for protection in the war of 1812. The park is at the northwest end of Water St. If the tide is out, there’s a path that extends from the blockhouse out across the tidal flats. Centennial Park, opposite the blockhouse, has a picnic pavilion.
Sheriff Andrew House (506-529-5080; cnr King & Queen Sts; admission by donation; 9:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun Jul-Sep), now a restored middle-class home dating from 1820, has been redecorated in period style and is attended by costumed guides.
Atlantic Salmon Interpretive Centre (506-529-1384; www.asf.ca; Chamcook Lake No. 1 Rd off Rte 127; adult/student/child $5/4/3; 9am-5pm) has an in-stream aquarium, guided tours and displays devoted to the life and trials of the endangered wild Atlantic salmon, once so plentiful in provincial rivers and bays.
Activities
Eastern Outdoors (506-529-4662; www.easternout doors.com; 165 Water St; mountain bike rentals per hr/day $7/25, kayak rentals per ½ day/day $25/35 mid-May–Oct) is a St Andrews-based outfitter that offers sea-kayak trips ranging from three hours ($50) to five-day camping expeditions ($80 per day).
The 800m Twin Meadows Walking Trail, a boardwalk and footpath through fields and woodlands, begins opposite No 165 Joe’s Point Rd beyond the blockhouse.
Tours
Several companies offering boat trips and whale-watching cruises have offices at the Adventure Destinations complex by the wharf at the foot of King St. They’re open from mid-June to early September. The $50 cruises do take in the lovely coast, sea birds are commonplace and seeing whales is the norm. The ideal waters for watching these beasts are further out in the bay, however, so if you’re heading for the Fundy Isles, do your trip there.
Sleeping
Kiwanis Oceanfront Camping (877-393-7070; www.kiwanisoceanfrontcamping.com; 550 Water St; tent/RV sites $19/23; mid-May–mid-Oct) At the far east end of town on Indian Point, this is mainly a gravel parking area for trailers, although some grassy spots do exist.
Picket Fence Motel (506-529-8985; www.picketfencenb.com; 102 Reed Ave; s/d $75/$85; ) Neat, simple, motel rooms within walking distance of the main drag.
Mulberry B&B (506-529-4948; www.mulberrybb.com; 96 Water St; s/d incl breakfast $90/110; May-Oct; ) You can’t lose at this delightful central place from 1820, offering three comfortable rooms with ceiling fans. There are ocean views from the garden. No tax, check or cash only.
Treadwell Inn (506-529-1011, 888-529-1011; www.treadwellinn.com; 129 Water St; r $145-250; ) Big, handsome rooms in an 1820 ship chandler’s house fronted by an inviting seaside garden; some with ocean views.
Fairmont Algonquin Hotel (506-529-8823, 888-270-1189; www.fairmont.com/algonquin; 184 Adolphus St; r $159-459; ) The doyenne of New Brunswick hotels, this venerable 1889 seaside resort, with its elegant verandah, gardens, rooftop terrace, golf course and tennis courts, is worth a look even if you’re not spending the night. Note the doormen dressed in kilts. There are a couple of places for a drink, be it high tea or gin.
Eating & Drinking
In keeping with its genteel atmosphere, St Andrews has embraced the custom of afternoon cream tea. Sadly, these days, there is nowhere in town to hear live music. Cocktails are available at the Fairmont Algonquin Hotel. Food-wise, there are several nice choices.
Sweet Harvest Market (506-529-6249; 182 Water St; all items under $11; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) In view, behind the counter, staff create wholesome soups, salads, sandwiches and sweets that are way beyond standard and chowder that is truly outstanding. The coffee’s good too.
Treadwell Snug and Oyster Bar (506-529-1011; 129 Water St; lunch $8-12, dinner $20-27; 11:30am-3pm lunch, 5:30-9pm dinner) A stylish bistro with big open views of the water. Pesto pizza, smoked meat sandwiches and crepes for lunch; crab cakes, salmon and steak for dinner.
The Garden Cafe (506-529-3335; 220 King St; lunch $9-12, cream tea $12, plus admission to Kingsbrae Garden; 10am-6pm Jul-Aug, 10am-5pm mid-May–Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, tea from 2:30pm) At Kingsbrae Garden, the terrace café serves high tea and sandwiches and salads for lunch with a glass of wine or local ale.
Elaine’s Chowderhouse (506-529-4496; 24 Lower King St; mains $9-15; 11:45am-9pm Wed-Sun) A casual eatery dishing up fish chowder, mussels in pesto cream, and other seafood delicacies.
Gables (529-3440; 143 Water St; lunch $10, dinner $15-20; 8am-11pm Jul-Aug, 11am-9pm Sep & Jun) Seafood and views of the ocean through a wall of glass dominate this comfortable place. To enter, head down the alley onto a gardenlike patio on the water’s edge.
Getting There & Around
Acadian Lines buses depart from HMS Transportation (506-529-3371; www.hmstrans.com; 260 Water St) at 7am Monday to Friday and 4pm daily for Saint John ($22). It goes the other way toward Bangor, Maine, daily at 3:30pm ($30). HMS Transportation also rents cars ($60 per day with 200 free kilometers; you must arrange your own collision insurance coverage).
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FUNDY ISLES
The thinly populated, unspoiled Fundy Isles are ideal for a tranquil, nature-based escape. With grand scenery, colorful fishing wharves tucked into coves, supreme whale-watching, uncluttered walking trails and steaming dishes of seafood, everyday stresses fade away and blood pressure eases. The three main islands each have a distinct personality. They offer a memorable, gradually absorbed peace. Out of the summer season, all are nearly devoid of visitors and most services are shut.
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DEER ISLAND
Deer Island, the closest of the three main Fundy Isles, is a modest fishing settlement with a lived-in look. The 16km-by-5km island has been inhabited since 1770, and 1000 people live here year-round. It’s well-forested and deer are still plentiful. Lobster is the main catch and there are half a dozen wharves around the island.
Orientation & Information
Deer Island can be easily explored on a day trip. Narrow, winding roads run south down each side toward Campobello Island and the ferry (drive defensively). There’s a summertime tourist information kiosk (www.deerisland.nb.ca; daily in summer) at the ferry landing.
Sights & Activities
At Lamberts Cove is a huge lobster pound used to hold live lobster (it could well be the world’s largest). Another massive pound squirms at Northern Harbor.
At the other end of the island is the 16-hectare Deer Island Point Park where Old Sow, the world’s second-largest natural tidal whirlpool, is seen offshore a few hours before high tide. Whales pass occasionally.
At the end of Cranberry Head Rd is a deserted beach. Most land on the island is privately owned, so there are no hiking trails.
Tours
Whales usually arrive in mid-June and stay until October. There are several companies offering tours:
- Seascape Sea Kayak Tours (506-747-1884, 866-747-1884; 40 NW Harbour Branch Rd, Richardson; www.seascapekayaktours.com; half-/full-day trips $59/115) Guided paddling excursions around Deer Island and Passamaquoddy Bay. Multiday island-jumping camping trips also available.
- Lambert’s Outer Island Tours (506-747-2426, 866-694-2537; www.outerislandtours.com; tours $50) Offers whale-watching tours at 10am, 1pm and 4pm in July and August. Tours leave from Lord’s Cove, 2km from the ferry wharf. Cash or cheque only and reservations are required.
Sleeping & Eating
45th Parallel Motel & Restaurant (506-747-2231; www.45thparallel.ca; 941 Hwy 772, Fairhaven; mains $9-14; 7:30am-9pm Jul-Aug, 11am-7pm May-Jun & Sep, weekends only Oct-Apr; ) The specialty is seafood at this small, rustic, country classic with a homey feel and great food. Ask to see Herman, the monster lobster. The motel rooms are a fine bargain, too, with singles at $40 and doubles for $52.
Deer Island Point Park (506-747-2423; www.deerislandpointpark.com; 195 Deer Island Point Rd; tent sites $16; Jun-Sep) Set up your tent on the high bluff and spend an evening watching the Old Sow whirlpool. The campground is directly above the Campobello ferry landing.
Getting There & Away
A free government-run ferry (25 minutes) runs to Deer Island from Letete, which is 14.5km south of St George on Hwy 172 via Back Bay. The ferries run year-round every half hour from 7am to 7pm, and hourly from 7pm to 10pm. Get in line early on a busy day.
East Coast Ferries (506-747-2159, 877-747-2159; end Jun–mid-Sep), a private company, links Deer Island Point to Eastport, Maine, an attractive seaside town. It leaves for Eastport every hour on the hour from 9am to 6pm; it costs $10 per car and driver, plus $2 for each additional passenger.
For service to Campobello, Click here.
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CAMPOBELLO ISLAND
The atmosphere on Campobello is remarkably different from that on Deer Island. It’s a gentler and more prosperous island, with straight roads and better facilities. The wealthy have long been enjoying Campobello as a summer retreat. Due to its accessibility and proximity to New England, it feels as much a part of the USA as of Canada, and most of the tourists here are Americans.
Like many moneyed families, the Roosevelts bought property in this peaceful coastal area at the end of the 1800s and it is for this that the island is best known. The southern half of Campobello is almost all park and a golf course occupies still more.
Orientation & Information
There isn’t even a gas station on the island; to fill their tanks, the 1200 residents of Campobello must cross the bridge to Lubec, Maine. They generally use the same bridge to go elsewhere in New Brunswick, as the Deer Island ferry only runs in summer. For further information try the tourist office (506-752-7043; www.campobelloislandtourism.com; 9am-7pm Jul & Aug,10am-6pm late May-Jun & Sep-early Oct) It has a currency exchange and it’s 500m from the bridge.
Sights & Activities
The southernmost green area is the 1200-hectare Roosevelt Campobello International Park (506-752-2922; www.fdr.net; Hwy 774; admission free; 10am-6pm late May-Oct), the site of the Roosevelt mansion and a visitors center. There are free guided tours of the 34-room ‘cottage’ where Franklin D Roosevelt grew up (between 1905 and 1921) and which he visited periodically throughout his time as US president (1933–45).
Adjacent Hubbard House (admission free), built in 1898, is open to visitors. The grounds around all of these buildings are open all the time, and you can peek through the windows when the doors are closed. The park is just 2.5km from the Lubec bridge, and from the Roosevelt mansion’s front porch you can look directly across to Eastport, Maine. You’d hardly know you were in Canada.
Unlike the manicured museum area, most of the international park has been left in its natural state to preserve the flora and fauna that Roosevelt appreciated so much. A couple of gravel roads meander through it, leading to beaches and 7.5km of nature trails. It’s a surprisingly wild, little-visited part of Campobello Island. Deer, moose and coyote call it home and seals can sometimes be seen offshore on the ledges near Lower Duck Pond, 6km from the visitors center. Look for eagles, ospreys and loons.
Along the international park’s northern boundary is Herring Cove Provincial Park (admission free). This park has another 10km of walking trails as well as a campground and a picnic area on an arching 1.5km beach. It makes a fine, picturesque place for lunch.
Ten kilometers north of Roosevelt Park, Wilson’s Beach has a large pier with fish for sale, and a sardine-processing plant with an adjacent store. There are various services and shops here in the island’s biggest community.
Four kilometers north of Wilson’s Beach is East Quoddy Head Lighthouse. Whales browse offshore and many people sit along the rocky shoreline with a pair of binoculars enjoying the sea breezes.
Tours
Island Cruises (506-752-1107, 888-249-4400; 62 Harbour Head Rd, Wilson’s Beach; adult/child $45/28; mid-Jun–Oct) offers 2½-hour whale-watching cruises.
Sleeping & Eating
Herring Cove Provincial Park (506-752-7010; fax 506-752-7012; www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca; 136 Herring Cove Rd; tent/RV sites $22/24; mid-May–early Oct) This 76-site park on the east side of the island, 3km from the Deer Island ferry, has some nice secluded sites in a forest setting, plus has a sandy beach and ample hiking.
Pollock Cove Cottages (506-752-2300; 2455 Rte 774, Wilson’s Beach; senewman@nbnet.nb.ca; r $75-175; ) Simple, clean one- and two-bedroom cottages with million-dollar views.
Lupine Lodge (506-752-2555; www.lupinelodge.com; 610 Hwy 774; s & d $85-200; Jun-Oct; ) With an appealing log-cabin-by-the-sea vibe, this upscale 1915 lodge is popular with families and sunset lovers. The wood-paneled dining room (lunch $8 to $14, dinner $15 to $20, three-course lobster dinner $35; 8am to 9pm) is the island’s fanciest. The specialty is seafood – fresh fish, scallops and lobster – but steaks are offered too.
Owen House B&B (506-752-2977; 11 Welshpool St, Welshpool; www.owenhouse.ca; d incl breakfast with shared bathroom $107-112, with private bathroom $121-210) A classic seaside vacation home of yesteryear, complete with antique spool beds made up with quilts, cozy reading nooks and lots of windows on the ocean.
Sweet Time Bakery (506-752-2470; 1001 Rte 774, Welshpool; mains $5-13; 8am-9pm) Follow your nose for fresh-baked goodies, soups, sandwiches and seafood platters.
Family Fisheries Restaurant (506-752-2470; Hwy 774, Wilson’s Beach; mains $5-20; 11:30am-8:30pm Apr-May, 11:30am-10pm Jun-Oct) Complete with its own fish market, the specialty is seafood, especially fish and chips and lip-smacking chowders. This very casual spot also has sandwiches and burgers.
Getting There & Away
East Coast Ferries (506-747-2159, 877-747-2159) connects Deer Island to Campobello Island, costing $13 per car and driver plus $2 per additional passenger. The ferry departs every half hour between 8:30am and 6:30pm (6pm in June and September). It’s a scenic 25-minute trip from Deer Island past numerous islands, arriving at Welshpool, halfway up the 16km-long island.
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GRAND MANAN ISLAND
Cue the Maritime fiddle music. As the ferry from the mainland rounds the northern tip of Grand Manan Island (pop 2700), Swallowtail Lighthouse looms into view, poised atop a rocky, moss-covered cliff. Brightly painted fishing boats bob in the harbor. Up from the ferry dock, the tidy village of North Head spreads out along the shore; a scattering of clapboard houses and shops surrounded by well-tended flower gardens and tall leafy trees.
Grand Manan is a peaceful, unspoiled place. There are no fast-food restaurants, no trendy coffee houses or nightclubs, no traffic lights and no traffic. Just a ruggedly beautiful coastline of high cliffs and sandy coves interspersed with spruce forest and fields of tall grass. Along the eastern shore and joined by a meandering coastal road sit a string of pretty and prosperous fishing villages. There is plenty of fresh sea air and that rare and precious commodity in the modern world: silence, broken only by the rhythmic ocean surf. Some people make it a day trip, but lingering is recommended.
Orientation & Information
The ferry disembarks at the village of North Head at the north end of the island. The main road, Rte 776, runs 28.5km down the length of the island along the eastern shore. It connects all of Grand Manan’s settlements en route to the lighthouse perched atop a bluff at South Head. You can drive from end to end in about 45 minutes. The western side of Grand Manan is uninhabited and more or less impenetrable: a sheer rock wall rising out the sea, backed by dense forest and bog, broken only at Dark Harbour where a steep road drops down to the water’s edge. A hiking trail provides access to this wilderness.
For further information on the area try the tourist information office (506-662-3442, 888-525-1655; www.grandmananNB.com; 130 Rte 776, North Head; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat).
Sights
White-washed Swallowtail Lighthouse (1860) is the island’s signature vista, cleaving to a rocky promontory about a kilometer north of the ferry wharf. Access is via steep stairs and a slightly swaying suspension bridge. Since the light was automated in 1986, the site has been left to the elements. Nevertheless, the grassy bluff is a stupendous setting for a picnic. It has a wrap-around view of the horizon and seals raiding the heart-shaped fishing weirs below.
All of the approximately 30 weirs dotting the waters around Grand Manan are named, some dating back to the 19th century. They bear labels such as ‘Ruin,’ ‘Winner,’ ‘Outside Chance’ and ‘Spite,’ evoking the heartbreak of relying on an indifferent sea for a living. A tear made by a marauding seal in a net can free an entire catch of herring in a single night.
Grand Manan Historical Museum (506-662-3524; www.grandmananmuseum.ca; 1141 Rte 776, Grand Harbour; adult/students & seniors $5/$3; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun mid-Jun to 30 Sep) makes a good destination on a foggy day. Its diverse collection of local artifacts provides a quick primer on island history. Here you can see a display on shipwreck lore and the original kerosene lamp from nearby Gannet Rock lighthouse (1904). There is also a room stuffed with 200-plus taxidermied birds (including the now extinct passenger pigeon).
Seal Cove is the island’s prettiest village. Much of its charm comes from the fishing boats, wharves and herring smoking sheds clustered around the tidal creek mouth. For a century, smoked herring was king on Grand Manan. A thousand men and women worked splitting, stringing and drying fish in 300 smokehouses up and down the island. The last smokehouse shut down in 1996. Although herring is still big business around here, it is now processed at a modern cannery. Today, the sheds house an informal Sardine Museum (no phone; Seal Cove; admission by donation; ‘open most days’). On display are the world’s largest sardine can (alleged) and an authentically smelly exhibit on the smoking process.
Activities
Sea Watch Tours (506-662-8552, 877-662-8552; www.seawwatchtours.com; Seal Cove fisherman’s wharf; adult/12-18yr/child $48/$38/$28; daily) and Whales-n-Sails Adventures (506-662-1999, 888-994-4044; www.whales-n-sails.com; North Head fisherman’s wharf; adult/child under 12 incl lunch $60/$40; daily at 11:30am & 4pm) both offer exhilarating whale-watching tours aboard a converted lobster boat and a sailboat, respectively. Reservations are essential.
With 338 species of birds, Grand Manan also attracts hard-core birders. Sea Watch Tours (adult/child under 11 $55/$35, or to go ashore $75; daily except Sun, 15 Jun-15 Aug) runs six-hour bird-watching pilgrimages to Machias/Seal Island. Atlantic puffins return in their thousands each year to hatch their young on this isolated slab of rock. Reservations essential.
Seventy kilometers of hiking trails crisscross and circle the island. Grab the comprehensive guide to the Heritage Trails and Footpaths on Grand Manan ($5), available at most island shops. Stay well away from the cliff edges! Unstable, undercut ground can give away beneath your feet. For an easy hike, try the shoreline path from Long Pond to Red Point (1.6km/one hour round-trip; suitable for children). The Flock of Sheep trail to Southern Head (2.5km/two hours round-trip; signposted from road) is a moderately strenuous outing. Alternatively, Adventure High (506-662-3563; www.adventurehigh.com; 83 Rte 776, North Head; half-day/full day $55/$99, moonlight paddle/sunset tour $50/$39, child under 13 half-price; daily May-Oct) runs sea kayaking tours.
The Grand Manan Historical Museum presents weekly lectures on local history and culture and runs art courses some weekends. Notices for church dinners and blueberry teas are posted on bulletin boards in local shops.
Sleeping
Anchorage Provincial Park (506-662-7022; Rte 776 btwn Grand Harbour & Seal Cove; tent/RV sites $22/25; mid-May–mid-Sep) Family-friendly camping in a large field surrounded by tall evergreens, located 16km from the ferry. There’s a kitchen shelter for rainy days, a playground, laundromat and long pebbly beach. Get down by the trees to block the wind. Anchorage adjoins some marshes, which comprise a migratory bird sanctuary, and there are several short hiking trails.
Hole-in-the-Wall Campground (506-662-3152, 866-662-4489; www.grandmanancamping.com; 42 Old Airport Rd, North Head; camping $23-28, cabins $35; 23 May-11 Nov). These spectacular cliff-top campsites are secluded among the rocks and trees, with fire pits, picnic tables and breathtaking views. Choose an inland site if you sleepwalk or suffer from vertigo. Showers and laundry facilities are available, as well as a couple of spotless simple cabins, furnished with bunk beds and a microwave. It’s a kilometer from the ferry dock.
McLaughlin’s Wharf Inn (506-662-8760; 1863 Rte 776, Seal Cove; s incl breakfast with shared bathroom $79, d $89; May-Sep). Housed in the old general store, there are bright, airy and clean modern rooms above the restaurant built right on the wharf. Great meals and very convenient for early morning puffin-watching departures.
Stone Cottage (506-662-3265; 56 Whale Cove Rd, North Head; low season/high season $85/125; year-round) A charming two-bedroom stone cottage set alongside organic vegetable gardens (help yourself) with a view of the cove from the front terrace. Perfect for a private getaway with a kitchen, cozy sitting/dining room warmed by a wood stove, wide-planked wood floors and TV.
Compass Rose (506-662-8570, off-season 613-471-1772; www.compassroseinn.com; 65 Rte 776, North Head; r incl breakfast $89-129; 1 Jun-30 Sep) Cheerful, comfortable guest rooms with a seashore motif and harbor views. Within walking distance of the ferry dock, it has one of the island’s most atmospheric restaurants attached.
Inn at Whale Cove (506-662-3181; www.holidayjunction.com; Whistle Rd, North Head; s/d from $105/$120; May-Oct) ‘Serving rusticators since 1910,’ including writer Willa Cather, who wrote several of her novels here in the 1920s and ’30s. The main lodge (built in 1816) and half a dozen vine-covered and shingled cottages retain the charm of that earlier era. They are fitted with polished pine floors and stone fireplaces, antiques, chintz curtains and well-stocked bookshelves. Some have kitchens.
Eating
The never abundant options are nearly nonexistent in the off-season (from October to early June). That said, there is some fine eating on Grand Manan. Reservations are essential for dinner due to limited table-space island-wide.
Harrington Cove Cottages (506-662-3868; 2232 Rte 776, Harrington Cove; scones & tea $4; 2-3:30pm, May-Sep). Tea on the verandah facing the water is a cherished afternoon tradition. Oven-warm scones are served with homemade rosehip, gooseberry and raspberry jam and pots of hot tea and or rhubarb punch. Credit cards not accepted.
North Head Bakery (506-662-8862; 199 Rte 776, North Head; lunch $5 6:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, May-Oct) Scrumptious Danish pastries, fruit pies and artisanal breads made with organic flour make this cheerful red and white bakery the first stop for many folks just off the ferry. Sit at the lunch counter with a coffee and sandwich and watch the parade.
Area 38 (506-662-3856; Ferry Wharf Rd, North Head; mains $5-12; 6:30am-9pm Mon-Thu, 6:30am-10pm Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm Sun) Open at dawn to feed fishing crews, this eatery adheres to a food-is-just-fuel philosophy, with an equally utilitarian decor that’s about as cozy as the hold of an oil tanker. Nevertheless, it is one of the few spots open for lunch and year-round, serving filling burgers, sandwiches, fish and chips, lifeless salads and ice cream, with a couple of pool tables and televised sports.
Inn at Whale Cove (506-662-3181; Whistle Rd, North Head; mains $15-22; 6pm-8:30pm late Jun–mid-Oct, weekends May-Jun) Absolutely wonderful food in a relaxed country setting on the cove. The menu changes daily, but includes mouth-watering meals such as curried squash soup or crab cakes followed by salmon crusted with walnut arugula pesto or lobster and spinach risotto with hazelnut creme caramel to-die-for for dessert. Come early and have a cocktail by the fire in the cozy old-fashioned parlor.
Also highly recommended for dinner:
- McLaughlin’s Wharf Inn (506-662-8760; 1863 Rte 776, Seal Cove; mains $14-22; dinner only from 6pm)
- Keyser’s Kafé (506-662-8182; 9 Ferry Wharf Rd, North Head; $7-14; 4-10pm)
- Compass Rose (506-662-8570; 65 Rte 776, North Head; mains $20-30; tea 2-4pm, dinner 6-9pm).
Getting There and Away
The only way to get on and off the island from Black’s Harbour on the mainland to North Head on Grand Manan is by the government ferry (506-662-3724; www.coastaltransport.ca; ticket office at North Head ferry terminal; adult/child $10.35/$5.10, automobiles $30.90, bicycles $3.50; 7 departures daily). Service is first-come-first-served at Black’s Harbour; plan on arriving at least 45 minutes before departure. In July and August especially there can be long queues for vehicles to board, but cyclists and pedestrians can walk on at any time. No ticket is required for the trip over; book and pay for your return trip in North Head the day before you plan to leave for the mainland. The crossing takes an hour and a half. Watch for harbor porpoises and whales en route.
The ferry dock is within walking distance of several hotels, restaurants, shops and tour operators. To explore the whole of the island, you should bring your own car, as there is no rental company on Grand Manan. Alternatively, Leighton Spicer (506-662-4904) drives the island’s only taxi and meets most ferries, and Adventure High (506-662-3563; www.adventurehigh.com; 83 Rte 776, North Head; 8am-9pm) rents bicycles for $16/$22/$99 a half-day/day/week.
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NEW RIVER PROVINCIAL PARK
Just off Hwy 1, about 35km west of Saint John on the way to St Stephen, this large park (506-755-4042) has one of the best beaches along the Fundy Shore, a wide stretch of sand bordered on one side by the rugged coastline of Barnaby Head. During camping season the park charges a $5 fee per vehicle for day use, which includes parking at the beach and Barnaby Head trailhead.
You can spend an enjoyable few hours hiking Barnaby Head along a 6km network of nature trails. The Chittick’s Beach Trail leads through coastal forest and past four coves, where you can check the catch in a herring weir or examine tidal pools for marine life. Extending from this loop is the 2.5km Barnaby Head Trail, which hugs the shoreline most of the way and rises to the edge of a cliff 15m above the Bay of Fundy.
The park’s campground (506-755-4042; newriver@gnb.ca; 78 New River Beach Rd; tent/RV sites $22/24; late May-early Oct) is across the road from the beach and features 100 secluded sites, both rustic and with hookups, in a wooded setting. Drawbacks are the gravel emplacements and traffic noise.
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SAINT JOHN
pop 69,660
Saint John is the economic engine room of the province, a gritty port city with a dynamism missing from the demure capital. The setting is spectacular – a ring of rocky bluffs, sheer cliffs, coves and peninsulas surrounding a deep natural harbor where the mighty St John and Kennebecasis Rivers empty into the Bay of Fundy. It can take a bit of imagination to appreciate this natural beauty, obscured as it is by the smoke stacks of a pulp mill, oil refinery and garden variety urban blight. The city is surrounded by an ugly scurf of industrial detritus and a tangle of concrete overpasses. But those who push their way through all this to the historic core are rewarded with beautifully preserved redbrick and sandstone 19th-century architecture and glimpses of the sea down steep, narrow side streets.
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HISTORY
The Maliseet Aboriginal people were here when the British and French began squabbling about furs. Though Samuel de Champlain landed in 1604, the area remained pretty much a wilderness until 1783, when about 7000 people loyal to Britain arrived from republican America. The Loyalists turned a fort site into Canada’s first legal city, incorporated in 1785. Between 1844 and 1848, some 35,000 Irish immigrants arrived, fleeing the famine in Ireland, and enough stayed that today they comprise the city’s largest ethnic group.
By the mid-19th century Saint John had become a prosperous industrial town, important particularly for its wooden shipbuilding. In 1877, two-thirds of the city, including most of the mercantile district, was reduced to ashes by fire. It was soon rebuilt. Today, a large percentage of the population works in heavy industry, at the Irving pulp mill, the Irving refinery, the new Irving liquefied natural gas (LNG) terminal, the Irving gas stations and convenience stores, the Irving home renovation business or the Moosehead brewery.
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ORIENTATION
Downtown (known as Uptown) Saint John sits on a square hilly peninsula between the mouth of the St John River and Courtenay Bay. Kings Sq marks the nucleus of town, and its pathways duplicate the pattern of the Union Jack. Water St borders the redeveloped waterfront area with Market Sq.
The district south of Kings Sq is known as the South End with Queens Sq at its heart. On Courtenay Bay, to the east, are the dry dock and much heavy industry. North of town is Rockwood Park, a recreational area.
West over the Harbour Bridge (50¢ toll) is Saint John West. Many of the street names in this section of the city are identical to those of Saint John proper, and to avoid confusion, they end in a west designation, such as Charlotte St W. Saint John West has the ferries to Digby, Nova Scotia.
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INFORMATION
- Main Post Office (506-672-6704; 41 Church Ave West, Postal Station B, E2M 4X6; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) In Saint John West, send general delivery mail here.
- Police, Fire & Ambulance (911) For emergencies.
- Saint John Library (506-643-7220; 1 Market Sq; 9am-5pm Mon & Sat, 10am-5pm Tue & Wed, 10am-9pm Thu & Fri) Free internet access.
- Saint John Regional Hospital (506-648-6000; 400 University Ave; 24hr) Emergency room.
- Visitor & Convention Bureau (506-658-2990, 888-364-4444; www.tourismsaintjohn.com; Market Sq; 9:30am-8pm mid-Jun–Aug, to 6pm Sep–mid-Jun) Knowledgeable, friendly staff. Ask for the self-guided walking-tour pamphlets.
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SIGHTS
New Brunswick Museum
This is a quality museum (506-643-2300; www.gnb.ca/0130; 1 Market Sq; adult/student/family $6/3.25/13; 9am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 9pm Thu, 10am-5pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun, closed Mon Nov–mid-May) with a varied collection. There’s a captivating section on marine wildlife with an outstanding section on whales including a life-sized specimen. There are also hands-on exhibits, models of old sailing ships and an original copy of The Night Before Christmas written in author Clement Clarke Moore’s own hand, which was sent to his godfather Jonathan Odell’s family in New Brunswick.
Reversing Falls
The Bay of Fundy tides and their effects Click here are a predominant regional characteristic. The falls here are part of that and are one of the best-known sites in the province. However, ‘reversing falls’ is a bit of a misnomer. When the high Bay of Fundy tides rise, the current in the river reverses, causing the water to flow upstream. When the tides go down, the water flows in the normal way. Generally, it looks like rapids. Reversing Falls Visitors Centre (506-658-2937; 200 Bridge Rd; 8am-7pm mid-May–early Oct), next to the bridge over the falls, can supply a Reversing Falls Tide Table brochure that explains where in the cycle you are.
Loyalist House & Burial Ground
Dating from 1810, Loyalist House (506-652-3590; 120 Union St; adult/child/family $3/1/7; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Jun, 10am-5pm daily Jul-Aug) is the city’s oldest unchanged building. The Georgian-style place is now a museum, depicting the Loyalist period and contains some fine carpentry.
The mood-inducing cemetery, with fading tombstones from as early as 1784, is just off Kings Sq, in a park-style setting in the center of town.
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ACTIVITIES
Beginning on a boardwalk at Market Sq (behind the Hilton Hotel), Harbour Passage is a red-paved walk and cycle trail that leads around the harbor, up Bennett St and down Douglas Ave to the Reversing Falls bridge and lookout. Informative plaques line the route and it’s about an hour’s walk one-way.
For those with vehicles and an appreciation of nature, Irving Nature Park (506-653-7367; west end of Sand Cove Rd; admission free; 8am-dusk early May-early Nov) is a must for its rugged, unspoiled coastal topography. It’s also a remarkable place for bird-watching, with hundreds of species regularly reported. Seals may be seen on the rocks offshore. Seven trails of varying lengths lead around beaches, cliffs, woods, mudflats, marsh and rocks. Good footwear is recommended. It’s well worth the 5km drive southwest from downtown to get here. Take Hwy 1 west from town and turn south at Exit 107, Bleury St. Then turn right on Sand Cove Rd and continue for 2km to the entrance.
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TOURS
Many have asked, but whale-watching is not an attraction in Saint John, save for the very occasional, very wayward minke.
- Saint John Transit Commission (506-658-2855) Runs 2½-hour bus tours (adult/child $16/5) around the city mid-June to early October. Departures and tickets from Reversing Falls Visitors Centre, Barbour’s General Store at Market Sq and Rockwood Park Campground. Two tours daily. At 9:30am the bus leaves Reversing Falls and takes 15 minutes to get to each of the other two stops. The trip is reversed from 12:30pm to 1pm.
- Words, Walks & Workshops (506-672-8601; walks free-$5; 7pm Tue Jun-Sep) For nearly 30 years David Goss, travel and outdoor columnist, has led themed walks throughout city and nature. The walks have so much flair that locals as well as visitors frequent the fun. Departure locations and hours vary; check with the visitors center.
- Gibson Creek Canoeing (506-672-8964; www.gibsoncreek.ca) Guided canoe trips through the numerous inter-tidal marshes and peaceful rivers close to the city. It offers half-day/day outings ($55/100) as well as interpretive natural history tours (half-/full day $75/125) and customized inn-to-inn canoe-tripping with a yoga option. It also rents canoes for $50 a day.
- Reversing Falls Jet Boat Rides (506-634-8987; Fallsview Ave; www.jetboatrides.com; Jun–mid-Oct) offers two types of boat trips. One is a leisurely one hour sightseeing tour (adult/child $32/25) to the Reversing Falls and around the harbor. The other is a 20-minute ‘thrill ride’ ($33) through the white-water at Reversing Falls. Count on getting soaked. For extremists, there is also an open, plastic, bubble-cage for one that bobs through the turbulence ($106) – it was nice knowing you.
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SLEEPING
Saint John motels sit primarily along Manawagonish Rd, 7km west of the downtown. There are also a couple of upscale chain hotels uptown (downtown).
Rockwood Park (506-652-4050; www.tourismsaintjohn.com; Lake Drive South; tent/RV sites $15/20; mid-May–early Oct) A couple of kilometers north of the downtown area is huge Rockwood Park, with small lakes, a woodland crisscrossed by walking paths, and a campground in a small open field. Bus 6 to Mt Pleasant from Kings Sq comes within a few blocks Monday to Saturday.
Sir James Dunn Residence (506-648-5755; www.unbsj.ca/hfs; off Sandy Point Rd near Rockwood Park; s/d $29/42, students $21/32; ) The simple rooms of Sir James Dunn Residence at the University of New Brunswick Saint John Campus, 6km north of the city center (take bus 15 from Kings Sq), are available from May to September.
Chipman Hill Suites (506-693-1171; www.chipmanhill.com; 9 Chipman Hill; ste $70-130; wi-fi) What a great concept! Chipman has taken 10 historic properties around downtown, renovated them into mini-apartments with kitchens while leaving all the character, and rents them out by the day, week or month. Size and features determine price, but all are a steal.
Homeport (506-672-7255, 888-678-7678; www.homeport.nb.ca; 60 Douglas Ave; r incl breakfast $90-175; ) Perched above grand, historic Douglas Ave, Homeport mansion offers a range of well-appointed rooms, afternoon tea in the traditional parlor, a great-start morning meal and a flowering garden.
Mahogany Manor (506-636-8000, 800-796-7755; www.sjnow.com/mm; 220 Germain St; d incl breakfast $95-110; ) On the loveliest street in Saint John, this gay-friendly, antique-filled, early 20th-century home is a wonderful place to temporarily call home. The upbeat owners know more about the city than you’ll absorb, even which meal to order at which restaurant!
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EATING
Old City Market (506-658-2820; 47 Charlotte St; 7:30am-6pm Mon-Thu, 7:30am-7pm Fri, 7:30am-5pm Sat) Wedged between North and South Market Sts is this sense-stunning, bustling market, which has been home to wheeling and dealing since 1876. Apart from the fresh produce stalls and bakeries, there are numerous counters selling a range of delectable prepared meals and foods, even lobster. Locals head to the lunch counter at Slocum and Ferris (lunch under $6).
Thai Hut at Quality Convenience (506-634-1827; 38 King St; mains $7-14; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat & Sun) You’ll know it by the mannequin dressed like a hula dancer on the sidewalk out front. At the back of this convenience store/DVD rental library, put your order in for tasty pad Thai and green curries you can take-away or eat at tables under the fake palm trees.
Taco Pica (506-633-8492; 96 Germain St; mains $10-17; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat) A fusion of authentic Guatemalan and Mexican fare is served in this colorful cantina. An economical introduction to the cuisine is pepian ($9), a simple but spicy beef stew that is as good as you’ll find in any Guatemalan household.
Nougatine et Chocolat (506-634-7758; 124 Prince William St; mains $10-20; 7am-5:30pm Tue-Sat, 10:30am-5pm Sun) Fine salads, pot pies and almost too pretty to eat delicate French pastries in a polished, European-styled café.
Billy’s Seafood Co. (506-672-3474; 49 Charlotte St; 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, Fri & Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 4-9pm; mains $16-30) Since we are on the east coast after all…his popular casual restaurant at the top of the City Market does seafood with flair.
Thandi (506-648-2377; 33 Canterbury St; mains $18-30; 11am-close Mon-Fri, 4pm-close Sat & Sun) A+ for atmosphere – exposed brick, heavy timbers and warm lighting with a stylish backlit bar downstairs and cozy fireplaces upstairs. The food is good, too – try the lamb korma, vegetarian tofu stir-fry or scallop and mussel risotto.
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DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Saint Johners get their caffeine fix at Java Moose (506-657-7283; 84 Prince William St; 7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; wi-fi) a home-grown coffee house with an urban chic/north woods vibe. There isn’t much of a nightclub scene here, but pub culture and live music thrive in a handful of atmospheric waterfront bars in the uptown core. You can make the rounds starting with O’Leary’s (506-634-7135; 46 Princess St; 11:30am-11pm Tue, 11:30-1:30am Wed-Fri, 11-1:30am Sat), a local institution; then move onto Elwoods (506-657-3001; 112 Prince William St; 11:30am-late) and Tapps Brewpub (506-634-1957; 78 King St; 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11-2am Fri & Sat, 4-10pm Sun). All have live music several nights a week and a wide selection of local microbrews and imported beers. For weekly goings on, pick up the free [here] entertainment paper, available around town. For a quiet tipple in sophisticated surroundings, duck into cozy Happinez Wine Bar (506-634-7340; 42 Princess St; 4pm-1am Fri, 5pm-1am Sat, 4pm-midnight Wed & Thu) or sleek Sebastian’s (506-693-2005; 43 Princess St; 5-10pm Mon-Tue, 5-11pm Wed & Thu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat) martini bar next door.
Incongruously located in a strip mall in the suburbs, Sessions Cafe (506-847-1321; 140G Hampton Rd, Sobey’s Plaza, Rothesay; 7:30am-11pm Thu-Sat, to 6:30pm Sun, early closing the rest of the week) is the best place in town to hear live Canadian folk and blues on weekends, with a Maritime Jam session on Thursday night. The shows often sell out, so reserve a ticket ($10 to $15) and a table for dinner beforehand.
Imperial Theatre (506-674-4100; 24 Kings Sq S; box office 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat) Now restored to its original 1913 splendor, the Imperial is the city’s premier venue for performances ranging from classical music to live theater. Call for schedule and ticket information.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
The airport is east of town on Loch Lomond Rd toward St Martins. Click here for flight info.
SCENIC DRIVE: KENNEBECASIS RIVER VALLEY
On a Saturday in summer, do what loads of Saint Johners do and take the Gondola Point Ferry (signposted off Hwy 1 at Exit 141; admission free) to the bucolic Kingston Peninsula, then follow Rte 845 east to the Kingston Farmers’ Market (Rte 845, Kingston; 8am-1pm Sat). Sample the fresh fruits and vegetables and various ethnic foods on offer or stop for lunch at the restored 1810 Carter House Tea Room (506-832-2902; 874 Rte 845; cakes & tea $4-8; 9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat) which is, of course, haunted – by a ghost who likes to tidy up and rearrange the books. Leave the city folk behind, continuing on Rte 845 into the bustling community of Hampton, where you pick up Rte 121, which follows the north side of the Kennebecasis River through farm country and the villages of Norton and Apohaqui into Sussex (pop.4200).
If you stick around ‘til evening, keep up the 1950s time-trip with a double-bill at the Sussex Drive-In (506-433-3134; Rte 2; adult/child $8/4; show time at dusk Fri-Sun, May-Sep). You can bed down at the attached Town & Country Campark (tent/RV site $26/28). Two other appealing options, both in rambling 19th-century houses, are Maple Shade Tourist Home (506-433-8300; 43 Church St; www.maple-shade.ca; r incl breakfast with shared bathroom $55-65; ) and Jonah’s Place B&B (506-433-6978, 866-448-8800; www.jonahplace.com; 977 Main St; r incl breakfast $60-115; wi-fi).
The classy and cozy Broadway Cafe (506-433-5414; 73 Broad St; mains lunch $8, dinner $18-35; 10am-3pm Mon-Tue, 10am-9pm Wed-Sat) is the place to eat in town.
Gasthof Old Bavarian (506-433-4735; 1130 Knightville Rd; mains $10-24; 12pm-10pm Fri-Sun Jun-Sep, 12-8pm the rest of the year, closed Jan) is the place for a truly memorable meal in the countryside. On a country road in a quiet valley settled by German and Dutch farmers, this place could have been transported beer steins and all from the Black Forest. The decor is Bavarian hunting lodge, with a low timbered ceilings, heavy wooden furniture and cheerful blue and white checked table cloths. The plates of schnitzel and sausages made on the family farm are plain beautiful, decorated with purple cabbage, fresh-picked greens and creamy white dumplings, with hearty flavors to match. Despite being more-or-less in the middle of nowhere, this place is always packed for dinner, so reservations are recommended. It’s cash only. To get there, pick up the Sussex and Area Regional Map at the tourist information center or ask a local.
Hang a left out of Gashof’s back onto the Knightville Rd, then left again onto Country View Rd at Anagance Ridge, then right onto Rte 890 into Petitcodiac. This stretch of road affords breathtaking vistas of rolling green countryside that’ll make you want to sell up, move here and raise chickens. If you can work up an appetite, stroll through the greenhouses and have a healthy organic lunch or tea and cake at Cornhill Nursery and Cedar Cafe (506-756-3635; 2700 Rte 890; lunch $7-10; 10am-4pm Jun-Sep). From Petitcodiac you can rejoin Hwy 1, heading east to Moncton or west back to Fundy Park and Saint John. The views of the valley from Hwy 1 between Hampton and Sussex are also lovely.
Boat
There’s a daily ferry service between Saint John and Digby, Nova Scotia (for more information, Click here).
Bus
The bus station (506-648-3500; 300 Union St; 7:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun) is a five-minute walk from town. There are Acadian Lines services to Fredericton ($20, 1½ hours) and Moncton ($26, two hours), with one morning and one afternoon trip in each direction. There’s a direct service to Bangor, Maine ($28, 3½ hours) on Friday and Saturday.
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GETTING AROUND
To/From the Airport
City bus 22 links the airport and Kings Sq. Diamond Taxi (506-648-8888) operates an airport shuttle costing $15. It leaves approximately 1½ hours before all flights, and runs to and from the Delta Brunswick on Brunswick Sq. A taxi costs around $28.
Bus
Saint John Transit (506-658-4700) charges $2.25. The most important route is the east–west bus service, which is either bus 1 or 2 eastbound to McAllister Dr and bus 3 or 4 westbound to Saint John West near the ferry terminal. It stops at Kings Sq in the city center. Another frequent service is bus 15 or 16 to the university.
Car & Motorcycle
Discount Car Rentals (506-633-4440; 622 Rothesay Ave) is opposite the Park Plaza Motel. Avis, Budget, Hertz and National all have car-rental desks at the airport.
Parking meters in Saint John cost $1 an hour from 8am to 6pm weekdays only. You can park free at meters on weekends, holidays and in the evening. Park free any time on back streets such as Leinster and Princess Sts, east of Kings Sq. The city parking lot (11 Sydney St) is free on weekends.
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EASTERN FUNDY SHORE
Much of the rugged, unspoiled Eastern Fundy Shore from Saint John to Hopewell Cape remains essentially untouched. Indeed, hikers, cyclists, kayakers and all nature lovers will be enchanted by this marvelous coast, edged by dramatic cliffs and tides. It’s not possible to drive directly along the coastline from St Martins to Fundy National Park; a detour inland by Sussex is necessary, unless you’re prepared to hike.
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ST MARTINS
A 40km drive east of Saint John, St Martins is a lovely, quintessential postcard village with a river, two covered bridges, fishing boats and red cliffs. Once a somnolent wooden shipbuilding center, it now draws vacationers to the coastal recreational parkway, opened in 1998. River Valley Adventures (506-833-2331, 888-871-4244; www.rivervalleyadventures.com; 404-B Main St) runs guided sea-kayaking and hiking tours along the coast, ranging from two hours to five days. It also rents mountain bikes ($8/35 an hour/day).
Sleeping & Eating
Minihorse Farm B&B (506-833-6240; 280 West Quaco Rd; www.stayatminihorsefarm.com; r incl breakfast $60; ) Count on simple, homey rooms and a warm welcome at this old farmhouse by the sea. Yes, there are miniature horses to pet.
St Martin’s Country Inn (506-833-4534, 800-566-5257; www.stmartinscountryinn.com; 303 Main St; r $95-165; ) The towering mansion overlooking the bay is the most deluxe place in town and also offers delectable meals in its delightful, caught-in-time dining room.
Seaside Restaurant (506-833-2394; 81 Macs Beach; mains $8-13; 9:30am-8pm) Right on the beach, near the caves just east of the covered bridge, the resort-style Seaside serves fish and chips, scallops, seafood casseroles and more. Now you know you are on holiday.
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FUNDY NATIONAL PARK
This national park (506-887-6000; www.pc.gc.ca/fundy; daily permit adult/child/family $7/3.50/17.50) is one of the country’s most popular. Highlights are the world’s highest tides, the irregularly eroded sandstone cliffs and the wide beach at low tide that makes exploring the shore for small marine life and debris such a treat. The park features an extensive network of hiking trails.
Information
- Headquarters Visitors Centre (506-887-6000; 10am-6pm mid-Jun–early Sep, 9am-4pm early Sep–mid-Jun) At the south entrance.
- Wolfe Lake Information Centre (506-432-6026; Hwy 114; 10am-6pm late Jun-early Sep) North entrance.
Activities
CYCLING
Mountain biking is permitted on six trails: Goose River, Marven Lake, Black Hole, East Branch, Bennett Brook (partially open) and Maple Grove. Surprisingly, at last report there were no bicycle rentals in Fundy National Park or in nearby Alma. Contact the visitors centers to find current information on this.
HIKING
Fundy features 120km of walking trails where it’s possible to enjoy anything from a short stroll to a three-day trek. Several trails require hikers to ford rivers, so be prepared.
The most popular backpacking route is the Fundy Circuit, a three-day trek of 48km through the heart of the park. Hikers generally spend their first night at Marven Lake and their second at Bruin Lake, returning via the Upper Salmon River. First, stop at the visitors center to reserve your wilderness campsites ($10 per night; call ahead for reservations).
Another overnight trek is the Goose River Trail. It joins the Fundy Trail, accessible by road from St Martins. This undeveloped three-day trek is one of the most difficult in the province. While you can cycle to Goose River, the trail beyond can only be done on foot.
Enjoyable day hikes in Fundy National Park include the Coppermine Trail, a 4.4km loop which goes to an old mine site; and the Third Vault Falls Trail, a challenging one-way hike of 3.7km to the park’s tallest falls. On a lighter note, the three-hour, ranger-led Fundy Night Life Hike (adult/child/family $12/8/33) at 8pm Saturday in July and August is great, if spooky, fun. Book well in advance.
SKIING
In the winter, 25km of park trails are groomed for fantastic cross-country skiing, with additional snowshoeing tracks through the forest.
SWIMMING
The ocean is pretty bracing here; luckily, there’s a heated saltwater swimming pool (506-887-6014; adult/child $3/1.50; 11am-6:30pm late Jun-early Sep) not far from the park’s southern entrance.
Sleeping
The park has five campgrounds and 13 wilderness sites. Camping reservations (800-414-6765, 877-737-3783; reservation fee $7.50) must be made at least three days in advance. The park entry fee is extra and is paid upon arrival.
Wolfe Lake Campground (campsites $13) Just an open field at the northwest entrance to the park, Wolfe Lake has no showers. However, it has the advantages of a covered cooking area and few other campers.
In the interior are the two large Chignecto Campgrounds (tent/RV sites $25/32). The 131-site Headquarters Campground (tent/RV sites $23/32) is near the visitors center. Along the coast, 8km southwest of the visitors center, is Point Wolfe Campground (tent sites $25) and its 181 sites with sea breezes and cooler temperatures.
To reserve a backcountry site ($10), call either of the visitors centers.
Fundy Highlands Inn & Chalets (506-887-2930, 800-883-8639; www.fundyhighlandchalets.com; 8714 Hwy 114; cabins $85-105; May-Oct) Simple but charming little cabins, all with decks, kitchenettes and superlative views.
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ALMA
The tiny village of Alma is a supply center for the park. It has accommodations, restaurants, a small gas station, grocery store, liquor outlet and laundromat. Most facilities close in winter, when it becomes a ghost town. Down on the beach is a statue of Molly Kool, the first female sea captain on the continent.
SCENIC DRIVE: FUNDY TRAIL PARKWAY
The parkway (506-833-2019; www.fundytrailparkway.com; adult/child/family $3/2/10; 6am-8pm mid-May–Oct) traverses a rugged section of what has been called the only remaining coastal wilderness between Florida and Newfoundland. The 11km-long parkway to Big Salmon River put an end to the unspoiled wilderness part. There is now a lovely stretch of pavement with numerous viewpoints, picnic areas and parking lots. Eventually, it will extend to Fundy National Park. Nova Scotia is visible across the bay. There is also a separate 16km-long very steep and hilly hiking/biking trail.
At Big Salmon River is a superfluous interpretive center (8am-8pm mid-May–mid-Oct) with exhibits and a 10-minute video presentation. A suspension bridge leads to a vast wilderness hiking area beyond the end of the road. Hikers can make it from Big Salmon River to Goose River in Fundy National Park in three to five days. At last report, no permits or permissions were required to do so. But beyond Big Salmon River, be prepared for wilderness, rocky scree and even a rope ladder or two. Some beach sections are usable only at low tide and the cliffs are unsafe to climb. Call Alonzo Leger (506-386-2867) for more information.
Fresh Air Adventure (506-887-2249, 800-545-0020; www.freshairadventure.com; 16 Fundy View Dr; late May–mid-Sep) offers myriad kayaking tours in and around Fundy, from two-hour trips to multiday excursions.
Captains Inn B&B (506-887-2017; www.captainsinn.ca; 8602 Main St; s incl breakfast $72-80, d $80-95; year-round) is a comely blue-and-white B&B that’s central and bright.
Tides Restaurant (506-887-2313; 8601 Hwy 114; mains $12-21; 11:30am-8:30pm mid-May–Oct) is the formal dining room at the seaside Parkland Village Inn. It prepares top-rate seafood but the ribs aren’t far behind. The casual take-out patio has fish and chips and cold beer.
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CAPE ENRAGE & MARY’S POINT
From Alma, old Rte 915 yields two sensational, yet relatively isolated, promontories high over the bay.
See the lighthouse at the windblown, suitably named Cape Enrage (506-887-2273, 888-280-7273; www.capenrage.org; off Rte 905; admission $3 donation; 8:30am-6pm May-Sep) and wander along the beach. The site was restored and is still expertly run by local high school students and volunteer mentors from the area. The locals also offer kayaking (full/half-day $78/52) along the shore and rappelling (2hr $50) off the steep rock faces, and operate the Keeper’s Lunchroom in the original lighthouse keeper’s house, where you can have a steaming bowl of chowder ($6.50) and enjoy the wonderful view.
At Mary’s Point, 22km east, is the Shepody Bay Shorebird Reserve (Mary’s Point Rd, off Hwy 915; admission free). From mid-July to mid-August literally hundreds of thousands of shorebirds, primarily sandpipers, gather here. Nature trails and boardwalks lead through the dikes and marsh. The interpretive center is open from late June to early September, but you can use the 6.5km of trails any time.
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HOPEWELL ROCKS
At Hopewell Cape, where the Petitcodiac River empties into Shepody Bay, are the Hopewell Rocks (877-734-3429; off Hwy 114; adult/child/family $8/5.75/20, shuttle extra $2; 9am-5pm mid-May–late Jun & mid-Aug–early Oct, 8am-8pm late Jun–mid-Aug). The ‘rocks’ are unusual erosion formations known as ‘flowerpots,’ rising several stories from the ocean floor.
With a crowded parking lot the size of Fredericton, you have to fight to feel the nature. However, an exploratory walk along the beach at low tide is still worthwhile. Check the tide tables beforehand at any tourist office. You can’t hit the beach at high tide, but the rock towers are visible from the trails that wind through the woods above.
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SOUTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK
The southeastern corner of New Brunswick Province is a flat coastal plain sliced by tidal rivers and salt marshes. Moncton, known as ‘Hub City,’ is a major crossroads with two well-known attractions where nature appears to defy gravity. Southeast, toward Nova Scotia, are significant historical and bird life attractions.
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MONCTON
pop 61,045
Moncton is like that fun-loving friend you’d love to fix up with the cute German exchange student in your office. You think they’d have some good times together, but you are concerned that your European friend might be put off by Moncton’s dowdy strip mall wardrobe and well, let’s face it, unmemorable physical features. So, you emphasize the town’s vivacious personality, appreciation of music and fine food and the fact that he speaks two languages.
A few square blocks along Main St in the city center have been prettied up with redbricked sidewalks and planters full of flowers. There are some great restaurants, bars and a bustling Acadian farmers’ market. Apart from that, there is little to detain the visitor.
History
Moncton was originally on a Mi’kmaq portage route from Shediac. In the 1740s the first Acadians settled, to be followed in 1766 by Protestant German immigrants from Pennsylvania. In the mid-1800s, it became a major shipbuilding center, but falling demand for wooden ships led to the closure of Moncton’s shipyards in the early 1860s. Later, it became a rail center and during WWII the city served as a transportation hub and training facility for pilots from many Allied countries. Moncton is now the fastest growing city in the Maritimes with an economy built on transportation and call centers drawn to set up here by the bilingual workforce.
WORTH A STOP
Where Scenic Rte 915 east from Alma skirts the bay at Waterside, pull off the road for a taste of sweet blueberry wine and a panoramic sea view at Waterside Farms Cottage Winery (506-887-2058; www.watersidewinery.ca; 2008 Rte 915, Waterside; 10am-6pm Jun-Sep, 11am-5pm Wed-Sun in winter).
Orientation & Information
- Moncton Public Library (506-869-6000; 644 Main St; 9am-8:30pm Tue-Thu, 9am-5pm Fri & Sat) Free internet access.
- St George St After Hours Medical Clinic (506-856-6122; 404 St George St; 5:30-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat, Sun & holidays) No appointment is required to see a doctor. Adjacent to Jean Coutu Pharmacy.
- Visitors Information Centre (506-853-3590, 800-363-4558; www.gomoncton.com; Bore Park, Main St E; 9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-4:30pm late May & Sep-early Oct, 9am-7pm Jun) From November to mid-May, find the office at City Hall, 2nd fl, 655 Main St.
Sights
At Magnetic Hill (506-858-8841; cnr Mountain Rd & Hwy 2; entry per car $5; 8am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep), incredibly one of Canada’s best-known (though not best-loved) attractions, gravity appears to work in reverse. Start at the bottom of the hill in a car and you’ll drift upward. You figure it out. After hours and out of season, it’s free. It’s a goofy novelty, worth the head-scratching laugh, but all the money-generating, spin-off hoopla now surrounding the hill is nothing special. Family-oriented attractions include a zoo and water park.
Tidal Bore Park (east end of Main St; admission free; 24hr) The tourist literature talks up the twice-daily return of the waters of the tidal Petitcodiac River. In theory, the tide comes in as one solid wave, unfurled like a carpet across the muddy riverbed in one dramatic gesture. As the tide advances up the narrowing bay it starts to build up on itself, pushed from behind by the powerful tides in the Bay of Fundy, the world’s highest. The height of this oncoming rush can allegedly vary from just a few centimeters to about 1m. In reality, it usually just looks like a big mud seep, and well…boring. The spoiler is the causeway that was built across the Petitcodiac in the 1980s, which the government pledged, in 2007, to remove.
Dieppe Farmers’ Market (506-382-5750; cnr Acadie Ave & Gauvin Rd, Dieppe; 7am-1pm Sat) A great place to get a taste – literally – of New Brunswick’s vibrant Acadian culture is the weekly market. Stalls overflow with locally-made cheeses, cottage wines and homemade preserves as well as Acadian dishes such as tortière, chicken fricot and rabbit pie. Nibble sweet pastries such as plogues and guaffres while browsing the craft stalls. To get there from downtown, head 2km east on Main St, which becomes Champlain, to Acadie Ave. Look for the yellow roof.
Tours
Roads to Sea (506-850-7623; www.roadstosea.com; May-Oct) offers 3½-hour bus tours ($75) to Hopewell Rocks, an eight-hour guided trip that takes in the Rocks, Fundy National Park, Cape Enrage and a few covered bridges and lighthouses ($130), as well as a 1½-hour tour of the Moncton sights ($40).
Sleeping
Reservations are a good idea as the city is a major conference destination and often gets packed solid.
C’mon Inn (506-854-8155, 506-530-0905; 47 Fleet St; monctonhostel@yahoo.ca; dm $24, s/d $30) Moncton’s only hostel is housed in a rambling Victorian two blocks from the bus station. The five-bunk dorm rooms and private singles and doubles with shared bathroom are nothing fancy, but they are clean and comfortable. There is a kitchen for guest use and lots of space for lounging on the verandahs.
Bonaccord House B&B (506-388-1535; www.bb canada.com/4135.html; 250 Bonaccord St; s/d incl breakfast $45/58, ste with kitchen $75; ) This place is a bargain – within walking distance of the center, a pleasant and well-maintained Victorian with some charm to boot. There is a cozy fireplace in the living room and morning coffee is served on the verandah.
Auberge au Bois Dormant (506-855-6767, 866-856-6767; www.auberge-auboisdormant.com; 67 John St; s incl breakfast $85-110, d $95-120; wi-fi) A gracious Victorian renovated with crisp modern flair. Some rooms have private balconies. This gay-friendly establishment is on a quiet, tree-lined residential street and puts on a three-course breakfast spread.
Eating & Drinking
Cafe Archibald (506-853-8819; 221 Mountain Rd; main dish $7-9; 10:30am-11pm Sun-Thu, 10:30am-midnight Fri & Sat) At this stylish bistro, crepes are the house specialty, whipped up in the open stainless steel kitchen and served at redwood and zebra print banquettes or on the inviting screened-in porch. Alternatively, feast on the wild mushroom and basil pizza with a leafy salad.
Pump House (506-855-233; 5 Orange Lane; mains $7-13; 11-1am) The Pump is where the locals unwind and you can get a good burger, steak-based meal or wood-fired pizza. Of the brews made on the premises, the Muddy River stout is tasty, or try the beer sample tray.
Bogart’s (506-855-5335; 589 Main St; lunch $7-12, dinner $19-25; 11:30am-whenever) A local favorite, this chic eatery has a menu running the gamut from escargot with white and garlic cream to maple-glazed salmon or seasoned crab cakes with zesty corn relish and rice pilaf. Thoughtfully included are wine suggestions to accompany each dish. The decor is a smart and snappy mix of tomato orange, dark chocolate brown wood and fresh creamy linens. Settle in for live after dinner music on summer weekends.
Calactus (506-388-4833; 125 Church St; mains $10-13; 11am-10pm) Shangri-la for vegetarians! Enjoy the freedom to order anything off the Mexican, Indian, Middle eastern-influenced menu. Try the mushroom cannelloni – pasta filled with portobello mushrooms and tofu cream smothered in tomato, feta and gouda cheese, baked and served with a salad. The natural wood, warm earth colors and burbling fountain create a soothing atmosphere.
Windjammer (506-877-7137; 750 Main St; mains $22-60; 5:30-10pm) If you are going to put on your heels and push out the boat for one gourmet meal in New Brunswick, this is the place to do it. A polished tone is set by the dark wood paneling and intimately lit dining alcoves set with white linen and china. Chef Stefan Mueller collects accolades for his fine cuisine created with local ingredients. Start with the brandy-kissed lobster bisque with citrus cream and move onto a chateaubriand of bison or beef with Bouctouche cheese and blueberry port cordial or a filet of Atlantic salmon glazed with ginger-infused molasses. The table d’hôte is $55 per person.
Also recommended are Pastalli (506-383-1050; 613 Main St; mains $9-18; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, 4-11pm Sun) for Italian with pizzazz; the rambling Old Triangle Irish Alehouse (506-384-7474; 751 Main St; mains $8-10; 11-2am) dishing up hearty pub fare, 32 beers on tap and live music most nights; and Hynes Family Restaurant (506-382-3432; 495 Mountain Rd; mains $8-10; 6:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 7am-10pm Sun), a nothing-fancy Moncton institution since 1939.
The free [here] tabloid has the rundown on Moncton’s vibrant (read: raucous) nightlife. Central Main St and side streets have several bars with a young crowd, live bands and dancing. You can also sip a glass of wine during the interval at the grand Capitol Theatre (506-856-4379; 811 Main St), a 1922 vaudeville house that has been restored to its original glory. It is the venue for concerts and live theater throughout the year.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Greater Moncton airport is about 6km east of Champlain Place Shopping Centre via Champlain St. For flight info Click here.
BUS
Acadian Lines stops at the bus station (506-859-5060; 961 Main St; 7:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8:30pm Sat & Sun), right in the heart of town. Buses go to Fredericton ($35, two hours, three daily), Saint John ($26, three daily), PEI ($30, three hours, three daily) and Halifax ($44, four hours, three daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
If you need wheels, Avis, Budget, Hertz and National all have car rental desks at the airport, or try Discount Car Rentals (506-857-2323; 566 Paul St; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat).
Parking can be a hassle in Moncton: the parking meters ($1 per hour) and ‘no parking’ signs extend far out from downtown. The municipal parking lot at Moncton Market on Westmorland St charges $1/7 per hour/day and is free on Saturday, Sunday and evenings after 6pm. Highfield Sq Mall on Main St provides free parking for its clients, and who’s to say you aren’t one?
TRAIN
The train station (506-857-9830, 800-561-3952; 1240 Main St; 9am-6pm) is right in the heart of town. With VIA Rail, the Ocean goes through northern New Brunswick, including Miramichi and Campbellton, and into Québec, on its way to Montréal. It leaves at 5:40pm daily except Tuesday (from $113). The train to Halifax departs daily at 11:40am, except Wednesday (from $40).
Getting Around
The airport is served by bus 20 Champlain from Champlain Place nine times on weekdays. A taxi to the center of town costs about $14.
Codiac Transit (506-857-2008) is the local bus system running daily, except Sunday. Single tickets are $2.
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SACKVILLE
Sackville is a small university town that’s in the right place for a pit stop – for birds and people. The Sackville Waterfowl Park, across the road from the university off East Main St, is on a major bird migration route. Boardwalks with interpretive signs rise over portions of it. The Wildlife Service (506-364-5044; 17 Waterfowl Lane, off E Main St; admission free; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) has information and a wetlands display at one of the entrances. Enthusiasts should also see the Tantramar Wetlands Centre (506-364-4257; www.weted.com; 223 Main St, behind the high school; admission free; 8am-4pm, Mon-Fri) with its walking trail and educational office.
Mel’s Tea Room (506-536-1251; 17 Bridge St; mains $4-10; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun) has been operating in the center of town since 1919, now with the charm of a 1950s diner, including a jukebox and prices to match.
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FORT BEAUSÉJOUR NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
Right by the Nova Scotia border, this national historic site (506-536-0720; www.pc.gc.ca/fortbeausejour; 1.5km west of the visitors center; adult/child/family $3.50/1.75/8.75; interpretive center 9am-5pm Jun–mid-Oct) preserves the remains of a French fort built in 1751 to hold the British back. It didn’t work. Later it was used as a stronghold during the American Revolution and the War of 1812. Only earthworks and stone foundations remain, but the view is excellent, vividly illustrating why these crossroads of the Maritimes were fortified by two empires.
To find out more, visit the New Brunswick Visitor Centre (506-364-4090; 158 Aulac Rd; 9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm mid-May–early Oct), off Hwy 2 in Aulac, at the junction of roads leading to all three Maritime provinces.
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NORTHUMBERLAND SHORE
New Brunswick’s Northumberland Shore stretches from the Confederation Bridge to Kouchibouguac National Park, dotted with fishing villages and summer cottages. Shediac, on lobster lovers’ itineraries, is a popular resort town in a strip of summer seaside and beach playgrounds. A good part of the population along this coast is French-speaking, and Bouctouche is an Acadian stronghold. Further north, Kouchibouguac National Park protects a large swath of scenic coastal ecosystems.
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CAPE JOURIMAIN
Near the bridge to PEI, the Cape Jourimain Nature Centre (866-538-2220; Rte 16; admission free; 8am-8pm May-Oct) sits in a 675-hectare national wildlife area that protects this undeveloped shoreline and its migratory birds. Seventeen kilometers of trails wind through salt marshes, dunes, woods and beach. A four-story lookout provides views of the surroundings and Confederation Bridge.
There’s a New Brunswick Visitor Centre (506-538-2133; Hwy 16; 8am-9pm Jul & Aug, 9am-6pm mid-May–Jun & Sep-early Oct) by the bridge.
For information on crossing the Confederation Bridge into PEI, Click here.
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SHEDIAC
Shediac, a self-proclaimed lobster capital, is a busy summer beach town and home of the annual July lobster fest. You can even enjoy it on pizza! The many white lights sprinkled around town all summer lend a festive air.
It seems on any hot weekend that half the province is flaked out on the sand at Parlee Beach, turning the color of cooked lobster. South at Cap Pelé are vast stretches of more sandy shorelines. Terrific Aboiteau Beach is over 5km of unsupervised sand, while others have all amenities and lifeguards.
Shediac Bay Cruises (506-532-2175, 888-894-2002; Pointe-du-Chene wharf) has a unique concept. They take passengers out on the water, pull up lobster traps, then show you how to cook and eat ’em – all for $65.
Shediac is ringed with shanty-town-like RV campgrounds whose only appeal is their proximity to Parlee Beach. More attractive lodgings (albeit more costly) are found at Auberge Belcourt Inn B&B (506-532-6098; 310 Main St; r $85-115; Mar-Nov; ) and Auberge Gabriele Inn (506-532-8007, 877-982-7222; www.aubergegabriele.nb.ca; 296 Main St; r $89-149; ).
Tops for dining out are Green House on Main (506-533-7097; 406A Main St; mains $10-20; 11am-10pm) offering imaginative French food in a restored Victorian house, Paturel’s Shore House (506-532-4774; Rte 133; mains $18-23; 4-10pm) for fresh seafood and Captain Dan’s (506-533-2855; mains $13-22; 11:30am-2am Fri, Sat & Tue, 11:30am-midnight Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu) at the busy Pointe de Chine wharf for more casual fare. The best pizza for miles around comes from the takeaway at Shediac Pizza (506-532-2203; 581 Main St; pizzas $3-10; 11am-late) Cash only.
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BOUCTOUCHE
This small, surprisingly busy waterside town is an Acadian cultural focal point with several unique attractions. The visitor information centre (506-743-8811; Hwy 134; 9am-5pm Jun-Sep) at the town’s south entrance features a boardwalk out over the salt marsh.
Sights & Activities
Le Pays de la Sagouine (800-561-9188; www.sagouine.com; 57 Acadie St; adult/child/student/senior/family $15/9/11/14/36; 9:30am-5:30pm last week of Jun-first week Sep) offers daily programs in French and English. Sitting on a small island in the Bouctouche River, it consists of a reconstructed historical fishing village. It hosts live music and theatrical shows focused on Acadian history and culture. In July and August there’s a supper theater at 7pm Monday to Saturday ($48.50).
Irving Eco Centre (506-743-2600; www.irvingecocenter.com/main.htm; 1932 Hwy 475; admission free; interpretive center 10am-8pm Jul & Aug, noon-5pm Mon-Thu, noon-6pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-May–Jun & Sep-Oct), on the coast 9km northeast of Bouctouche, protects and makes accessible ‘La Dune de Bouctouche,’ a beautiful, long sandspit jutting into the strait. The interpretive center has displays on the flora and fauna, but the highlight is the boardwalk that snakes above the sea grass along the dunes for 2km. The peninsula itself is 12km long, taking four to six hours to hike over the loose sand and back. There are several naturalist-led tours daily. There’s a 12km hiking/cycling trail through mixed forest to Bouctouche town, which begins at the Eco Centre parking lot ($4).
KC Irving (1899–1992), founder of the Irving empire, was from Bouctouche, and there’s a large bronze statue of him in the town park.
Sleeping & Eating
Two nice choices for the night are Aux P’tits Oiseaux (506-743-8196; oiseau@nbnet.nb.ca; 124 Chemin Du Couvent; s incl breakfast with shared bathroom $55-60, d $60-65; ), a cheerful white clapboard house with red and white striped awnings visible from Rte 475; and Bellevue Sur Mer (506-743-6575; bellebb@nbnet.nb.ca; 539 Rte 475; r incl breakfast $75-100; May-Oct), an 1860 farmhouse done up in a sunny French country style with toile, white linens and antiques. The screened-in porch offers a lovely view of the bay.
For a plate of fried clams or a traditional Acadian dinner, grab a seat on the outdoor patio at Restaurant La Sagouine (506-743-6606; 43 Boul Irving; mains $8-17; 6am-10pm summer, 6am-7pm winter).
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KOUCHIBOUGUAC NATIONAL PARK
Beaches, lagoons and offshore sand dunes extending for 25km make this park. The sands invite strolling, bird-watching and clam-digging. The park also encompasses acres of forest and salt marshes, crisscrossed or skirted by biking paths, hiking trails and groomed cross-country ski tracks. Kouchibouguac (koosh-e-boo-gwack), a Mi’kmaq word meaning ‘river of long tides,’ also has populations of moose, deer and black bear. For more information try the visitors centre (506-876-2443; www.pc.gc.ca/kouchibouguac; 186 Hwy 117; daily park admission adult/child/family $7/3.50/17.30, season pass child/adult $18/35; 8am-8pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm mid-May–mid-Oct).
Activities
CYCLING & KAYAKING
Kouchibouguac has 60km of bikeways – crushed gravel paths that wind through the heart of the park’s backcountry. Ryan’s Rental Centre(506-876-3733), near the South Kouchibouguac campground, rents out bicycles at $6/28 per hour/day and canoes/kayaks at $30/50 per day. From Ryan’s it’s possible to cycle a 23km loop and never be on the park road. The calm, shallow water between the shore and the dunes, which run for 25km north and south, makes for a serene morning paddle.
HIKING
The park has 10 trails, mostly short and flat. The excellent Bog Trail (1.9km) is a boardwalk beyond the observation tower, and only the first few hundred meters are crushed gravel. The Cedars Trail (1.3km) is less used. The Osprey Trail (5.1km) is a loop trail through the forest. Kelly’s Beach Boardwalk (600m one way) floats above the grass coved dunes. When you reach the beach, turn right and hike 6km to the end of the dune. Take drinking water.
SWIMMING
For swimming, the lagoon area is shallow, warm and safe for children, while adults will find the deep water on the ocean side invigorating.
Sleeping & Eating
Kouchibouguac has two drive-in campgrounds and three primitive camping areas totaling 359 sites. The camping season is from mid-May to mid-October and the park is very busy throughout July and August, especially on weekends. Camping reservations (877-737-3783; www.pccamping.ca; reservation fee $8) are taken for 60% of the sites. Otherwise, get on the lengthy ‘roll call’ waiting list – it can take two or three days to get a site. The park entry fee is extra.
Cote-a-Fabien (campsites $15; first-come first served only) On the north side of Kouchibouguac River, this is the best choice for those seeking a bit of peace and privacy. There is water and vault toilets, but no showers. Some sites are on the shore, others nestled among the trees, with a dozen walk-in sites (100 meters, wheel barrows provided for luggage) for those who want a car-free environment. The Osprey hiking trail starts from here.
The three primitive campgrounds have only vault toilets. Sipu and Petit-Large have water pumps. All cost $10 per person per night. Note that Pointe-a-Maxime is the most difficult to get to (access by water only), but this does not translate into remote seclusion. There is a constant stream of passing motorized boat traffic from the fishing wharf nearby.
There are a couple of snack bars and a restaurant in the park, but you should stock up on groceries in nearby St-Louis de Kent.
South Kouchibouguac (with electricity/without in summer $30/26) This is the largest campground, 13km inside the park near the beaches in a large open field ringed by trees, with sites for tents and RVs, showers and a kitchen shelter.
Getting There & Away
It is difficult to get to and around the park without a car or bicycle. The distance from the park gate to the campgrounds and beaches is at least 10km. The nearest bus stop is in Rexton, 16km south of the park, where Acadian Bus Lines stops at the Irving convenience store (506-523-6292; 126 Main St). There is one bus a day heading south to Moncton ($13), and one a day heading north to Miramichi City ($18).
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THE MIRAMICHI RIVER VALLEY
In New Brunswick, the word Miramichi connotes both the city and the river, but even more: an intangible, captivating mystique. The spell the region casts emanates partially from the Acadian and Irish mix of folklore, legends, superstitions and tales of ghosts. It also seeps from the dense forests and wilderness of the area and from the character of the residents who wrestle a livelihood from these natural resources. The fabled river adds its serpentine cross-country course, crystal tributaries and world-renowned salmon fishing. The region produces some wonderful rootsy music and inspires artists including noted writer David Adams Richards, whose work skillfully mines the temper of the region.
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MIRAMICHI CITY
The city of Miramichi is an amalgam of Chatham and Newcastle and the villages of Douglastown, Loggieville, Nelson and several others along a 12km stretch of the Miramichi River near its mouth. Miramichi City, with its Irish background, is an English-speaking enclave in the middle of a predominantly French-speaking region. The tourist information centre (506-623-2152; Jun-Aug) is downtown at Ritchie’s Wharf, a riverfront boardwalk park with playgrounds, eateries and a lighthouse.
Though surrounded by two paper mills and sawmills, central Newcastle is pleasant. In the central square is a statue to Lord Beaverbrook (1879–1964), one of the most powerful press barons in British history and a major benefactor of his home province (Click here). His ashes lie under the statue presented as a memorial to him by the town. Beaverbrook’s boyhood home Beaverbrook House (506-624-5474; 518 King George Hwy; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun mid-Jun–Aug), (built 1879) is now a museum.
Miramichi City is a mill town, not a tourist center, but traditional folk music enthusiasts might want to pay a visit for the Irish Festival (www.canadasirishfest.com; mid-Jul) and the Miramichi Folksong Festival (www.miramichifolksongfestival.com; early Aug) the oldest of its kind in North America.
Sleeping & Eating
Enclosure Campground (506-622-8638, 800-363-1733; 8 Enclosure Rd; tent/RV sites $21/27; May-Oct) Southwest of Newcastle off Hwy 8 is another of Lord Beaverbrook’s gifts, a former provincial park called The Enclosure. This riverside park includes a nice wooded area with spacious quasi-wilderness sites for tenters.
Governor’s Mansion (506-622-3036, 877-647-2642; www.governorsmansion.ca; 62 St Patrick’s St, Nelson; r incl breakfast & shared bathroom $49-99, d with private bathroom $79-99) On the south side of the river overlooking Beaubears Island is the elegant Victorian Governor’s Mansion (1860), onetime home of the first Irish lieutenant governor of the province.
For eats, head to Kingsway Restaurant (506-622-1138; 367 King George Hwy, Miramichi; mains $10-15; 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun), which has been serving up meatloaf with mashed, two veg and gravy since 1960. For something a bit different, such as a lobster and mozzarella tart, choose Saddler’s Cafe (506-773-4214; 1729 Water St, Chatham; mains lunch $7-10, dinner $11-16; 11:30am-3pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat).
Getting There & Away
The bus station (506-622-0445; 60 Pleasant St; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-3pm Sat & Sun) is in downtown Newcastle. Daily buses leave for Fredericton ($19, 2½ hours), Saint John ($38, five hours) and Campbellton ($23, three hours).
The VIA Rail station (800-561-3952; on Station St at George St) is in Newcastle. Trains from Montréal and Halifax stop here.
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MIRAMICHI RIVER VALLEY
The Miramichi is actually a complex web of rivers and tributaries draining much of central New Brunswick. The main branch, the 217km-long Southwest Miramichi River, flows from near Hartland through forest to Miramichi City where it meets the other main fork, the Northwest Miramichi. For over 100 years, the entire system has inspired reverent awe for its tranquil beauty and incredible Atlantic salmon fly-fishing. Famous business tycoons, international politicians, sports and entertainment stars and Prince Charles have all wet lines here. Even Marilyn Monroe is said to have dipped her legs. The legendary fishery has had some ups and downs with over-fishing, poaching and unknown causes (perhaps global warming) affecting stocks, but they now seem back at sustainable levels. The tourist office (506-365-7787; www.doaktown.com) is in the Salmon Museum.
Sights
On the Esk River, Metepenagiag First Nation Heritage Park (506-836-6118, 800-570-1344; 2202 Hwy 420, Redbank; www.metepenagiag.com; admission $10; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) offers interpretive tours of Mi’kmaq culture and history on a 3000-year old archeological site.
Historic Doaktown is the river valley’s main center and its unofficial fishing capital. Get a hands-on education at the Atlantic Salmon Museum (506-365-7787, 866-725-6662; www.atlanticsalmonmuseum.com; 263 Main St; adult/family $5/12; 9am-5pm Jun–mid-Oct).
WORTH THE TRIP: LITTLE BIG BEAR SAFARI
Time was, when you wanted to see a bear in New Brunswick, you went to the dump after dark. In these days of efficiently managed – and gated – waste disposal sites, you have to do your wildlife viewing elsewhere. You could wander in the woods waving a peanut butter sandwich (not recommended) – or sneak a peek from the viewing tower in the woods at Little Big Bear Safari (506-775-2354; 4120 Rte 480, Acadieville; adult/child/family $45/15/99; around 6pm), 15 minutes drive from Kouchibouguac National Park. You are accompanied by a guide. Note that children must be old enough to sit quietly for the whole two hour observation period.
Activities
Sport fishing remains the main activity, but is tightly controlled for conservation. Licenses are required and all anglers must employ a registered guide. A three-day license for nonresidents is $40. All fish over 63cm must be released. For more, see www.gnb.ca/0078/fw/angling/summary.asp. Salmon fishing on the Miramichi is primarily hook and release, a conservation measure in place to preserve the precious and endangered species. Most of the salmon served up in the province is, in fact, salmon farmed in the Bay of Fundy.
WW Doak & Sons (506-365-7828; www.doak.com; 331 Main St) is one of Canada’s best fly-fishing shops. It sells a staggering number of flies annually, some made on the premises. A wander through here will certainly get an angler pumped.
Despite the presence of the king of freshwaters, there are other pastimes to enjoy. The Miramichi Trail, a walking and cycling path along an abandoned rail line, is now partially complete, with 75km of the projected 200km useable. At McNamee, the pedestrian Priceville Suspension Bridge spans the river. It’s a popular put-in spot for canoeists and kayakers spending half a day paddling downriver to Doaktown. Several outfitters in Doaktown and Blackville offer equipment rentals, shuttle services and guided trips for leisurely canoe, kayak or even tubing trips along the river.
Sleeping & Eating
Beautiful rustic lodges and camps abound, many replicating the halcyon days of the 1930s and ’40s. Check out www.doak.com for links to more accommodations and fishing outfitters.
O’Donnell’s Cottages & Expeditions (506-365-7636, 800-563-8724; www.odonnellscottages.com; 439 Storeytown Rd; r $85-160) Cozy log cabins on the riverbank, with a variety of outdoor activities on offer.
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NORTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK
The North Shore, as it is known to New Brunswickers, is the heartland of Acadian culture in the province. The region was settled 250 years ago by French farmers and fishers, starting from scratch again after the upheaval of the Expulsion, frequently intermarrying with the original Mi’kmaq inhabitants. The coastal road north from Miramichi City, around the Acadian Peninsula and along the Bay of Chaleur to Campbellton passes through small fishing settlements and peaceful ocean vistas. At Sugarloaf Provincial Park, the Appalachian Mountain Range comes down to the edge of the sea. Behind it, stretching hundreds of miles into the interior of the province is a vast, trackless wilderness of rivers and dense forest, rarely explored.
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TRACADIE-SHEILA
Unmasking a little known but gripping story, the Historical Museum of Tracadie (506-393-6366; 399-222 Rue du Couvent; adult/child $3/1; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun) focuses on the leprosy colony, based here from 1868 to as late as 1965. It’s the only place in Canada providing details on a leprosarium. The nearby cemetery has the graves of 60 victims of Hansen’s Disease (leprosy).
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CARAQUET
The oldest of the Acadian villages, Caraquet, was founded in 1757 by refugees from forcibly abandoned homesteads further south. It’s now the lively center of the peninsula’s French community. Caraquet’s colorful, bustling fishing port, off Boul St Pierre Est, has an assortment of moored vessels splashing at the dock. East and west Boul St Pierre are divided at Rue le Portage.
The tourist office (506-726-2676; 51 Boul St Pierre Est; 9am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep) and all of the local tour operators are found at the Callefour de la Mer complex, with its Day Adventure Centre, restaurant and views down on the waterfront near the fishing harbor.
Sights & Activities
Acadian Historic Village (506-726-2600, 877-721-2200; www.villagehistoriqueacadien.com; 14311 Hwy 11; adult/child/senior/family $15/9/13/36; 10am-6pm early Jun-Sep), 15km west of Caraquet, is a major historic reconstruction set up like a village of old, with 33 original buildings relocated to the site and animators in period costumes reflecting life from 1780 to 1880.
A good three to four hours is required to see the site, and you’ll want to eat. For that, there are four choices: two snack bars; Dugas House, serving sit-down Acadian dishes; and the dining room at Château Albert, with a menu from 1910.
The village has a program for kids ($30), which provides them with a costume and seven hours of supervised historical activities.
Sea of Adventure (800-704-3966; Jul & Aug) offers three-hour whale-watching tours (adult/child $64/41) in rigid-hulled Hurricane zodiacs seating 12 passengers.
Festivals & Events
The largest annual Acadian cultural festival, Festival Acadien (506-727-2787; www.ville.caraquet.nb.ca in French) is held here the first two weeks of August. It draws 100,000 visitors; over 200 performers including singers, musicians, actors, dancers from Acadia and other French regions (some from overseas) entertain. Especially picturesque is the annual blessing of the fleet, when a flotilla of fishing vessels cruises the harbor with ribbons and flags streaming from their rigging. The culminating Tintamarre Parade is a real blowout.
Sleeping & Eating
Maison Touristique Dugas (506-727-3195; www.maisontouristiquedugas.ca; 683 Boul St Pierre Ouest; campsites $20-25, r with shared bathroom with/without breakfast $50/55, d with private bathroom & cooking facilities $70, cabins d $70) Accommodations of all kinds are available at this green property a few miles west of Caraquet. The rambling, antique-filled 1926 house holds 11 rooms with shared bathrooms. There are five minuscule (bed butts up against the fridge) but bright and clean cabins with private bathrooms and cooking facilities in the backyard, a small field for RVs beyond that, and a quiet, tree-shaded campground for tenters.
SCENIC DRIVE: THE ACADIAN PENINSULA
Take a run out to the very northeastern tip of the province – a chain of low, flat islands pointing across the Gulf of St Lawrence to Labrador. Rte 113 cuts across salt marsh and scrub arriving first in Shippagan, home of the province’s largest fishing fleet, where crab is king. Visit the sea creatures at the Aquarium & Marine Centre (506-336-3013; 100 Aquarium St; adult/family $7/14; 10am-6pm mid-May–Sep). Kids will love the touch tanks full of sea creatures, and the seals (fed at 11am and 4pm). Stop for fried chicken or a crab roll at the insanely busy Ô Maboule Bistro Bar (506-336-004; 121 16th St; mains $5-13; 11am-10pm) overlooking the marina on the north edge of town. Hop the bridge to Lamèque, a tidy fishing village that has hosted the Lamèque International Baroque Festival (506-344-5846, 800-320-2276; www.festivalbaroque.com; last week Jul) for over 30 years. B&B aux Peupliers (506-344-5145; 66 Du Pecher St North; kanuth@nb.sympatico.ca; d with shared bathroom incl breakfast $75-100; ) offers charming accommodation in a heritage home furnished with antiques. Rte 113 continues north to Miscou Island. Stop to walk the boardwalk trail over a blueberry bog before the road dead-ends at the lighthouse.
Château Albert (Acadian Historic Village; www.villagehistoriqueacadien.com/chateauanglais.htm; d $70-125) For complete immersion in the Acadian Historic Village, spend the night in early 20th-century style – no TV, no phone – but a charming, quiet room restored to its original 1909 splendor (with a modern bath). The original Albert stood on the main street in Caraquet until it was destroyed by fire in 1955. Packages are available including dinner in the period dining room downstairs and a tool around in a model T Ford.
Hotel Paulin (506-727-9981, 866-727-9981; www.hotelpaulin.com; 143 Boul St Pierre West; d from $120, incl breakfast & a 4-course dinner for 2 from $195) Scrimp elsewhere and splurge on a night at the exquisite Hotel Paulin. This seaside resort hotel overlooking the bay was built in 1891 and has been run by the Paulin family since 1907. The rooms are sunny and polished, done up in crisp white linens, lace and antiques. If you are staying elsewhere, make reservations for dinner; the hotel has earned a reputation for fine cuisine. An example: Fiddlehead (a green, immature fern) soup followed by Acadian chicken fricot with herb dumplings (table d’ hôte $45).
Alternatively, dine on traditional country fare on the verandah at La Chocolatière (506-727-3727; 144 Boul St-Pierre West; mains $10-25; 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat & Sun) across the street. For a stylish bistro meal, stop into Café Phare (506-727-9469; 186 Boul St-Pierre; mains $7-11; 7:30am-9pm Jul & Aug, 7:30am-4pm Wed-Fri & 8:30am-4pm Sat & Sun in winter), an arty café serving soups, salads and sandwiches. A crisp avocado, dark chocolate and cream color scheme is accented by original artwork.
Getting There & Away
Public transportation around this part of the province is very limited as Acadian Lines buses don’t pass this way. Local residents wishing to connect with the bus or train in Miramichi or Bathurst use a couple of van shuttles. Ask for details at the tourist office.
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CAMPBELLTON
Campbellton is a pleasant but unremarkable mill town on the Quebec border. There are really only two reasons to come here: transiting to or from Quebec; or to hike, ski and camp at Sugarloaf Provincial Park. The lengthy Restigouche River, which winds through northern New Brunswick and then forms the border with Québec, empties to the sea here. The Bay of Chaleur is on one side and dramatic rolling hills surround the town on the remaining sides. Across the border is Matapédia and Hwy 132 leading to Mont Joli, 148km into Québec.
Dominated by Sugarloaf Mountain, which rises nearly 400m above sea level and looks vaguely like one of its other namesakes in Rio, Sugarloaf Provincial Park (506-789-2366; 596 Val d’Amours Rd; admission free) is off Hwy 11 at Exit 415. From the base, it’s just a half-hour walk to the top – well worth the extensive views of the town and part of the Restigouche River. Another trail leads around the bottom of the hill.
The last naval engagement of the Seven Years’ War was fought in the waters off this coast in 1760. The Battle of Restigouche marked the conclusion of the long struggle for Canada by Britain and France. The helpful provincial tourist office (506-789-2367; 56 Salmon Blvd; 10am-6pm mid-May–Jun & Sep-early Oct, 8am-9pm Jul & Aug) is next to City Centre Mall.
Sugarloaf Provincial Park (506-789-2366; 596 Val d’Amours Rd; tent sites $20, RV sites $22-25; mid-May–early Oct) has 76 campsites in a pleasant wooded setting 4km from downtown Campbellton. You can also crash comfortably at Campbellton Lighthouse Hostel (506-759-7044; campbellton@hihostels.ca; 1 Ritchie St; dm members/nonmembers $16/20; mid-Jun–Aug; ) This clean, recently renovated hostel is in a converted lighthouse by the Restigouche River, near the provincial tourist office and Acadian bus stop. Alternatively, Maison McKenzie House B&B (506-753-3133; www.bbcanada.com/4384.html; 31 Andrew St; r incl breakfast with shared bathroom $65-90; ) is a homey 1910 house handy to downtown.
Upper Deck (506-753-2225; 13 Prince William St; mains $13-20; 11am-9pm Tue-Thu, 11am-9:30pm Fri, 10am-9:30pm Sat, 10am-8:30pm Sun) serves up hearty meals.
Getting There & Away
The Acadian bus stop is at the Pik-Quik convenience store (506-753-3100; Water St, near Prince William St). The bus departs daily at 11am for Fredericton ($35, 3½ hours) and Moncton ($35, six hours). Twice a day (once in the morning and once in the afternoon), an Orléans Express bus leaves for Gaspé ($55) and Québec City ($66, seven hours).
The VIA Rail station (800-561-3952; 113 Roseberry St; 5:45-10:30am Wed-Mon & 5:45-10pm Thu-Tue) is conveniently central. There’s one train daily, except Wednesday, going south to Moncton ($60, four hours) and Halifax ($83, nine hours), and one daily, except Tuesday, heading the other way to Montréal ($125, 11 hours).