We took a trip to Istanbul a few years ago and just ate, drank, smelt interesting and delicious things the entire time. Grilled mackerel fillets folded in fresh bread from a man fishing and grilling by the river; sitting on the harbour on the Asian side eating sticky baklava watching huge cruise ships; hot, sweet milk flavoured with orchid root after a complicated ferry trip up the Bosphorus; amazing sesame flatbreads, grilled lamb, smoky aubergines and spiced yoghurt dips with grilled chicken and cooling yoghurt drinks on plastic stools in the spice market…