A couple of weeks ago I drove south over the river to meet Ailsa and Rob Latimer at their fish shop in Whitburn. I tried my best to talk while eating a giant crab sandwich and eyeing the huge fish counter. Their range of fish is beautifully fresh. I came home with a bag of squid, some hot smoked salmon, fresh langoustines, some little red mullet and a John Dory.
Red mullet are relatively sustainable, as they grow quickly and mature young in UK waters. They are not overfished here like they are in the Mediterranean. So red and pretty, the flesh has a light, almost gamey flavour.
SERVES 2
• 25g butter
• 2 red mullet, 1 per person, ask the fishmonger to gut them for you
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
• 4 fresh bay leaves
• salt and pepper
Heat a large heavy-based frying pan and melt the butter, swirling it round to cover the pan. Stuff the garlic and bay leaves into the cavity of the fish and season all over with salt and pepper.
Place the fish into the hot pan and cook for 7 minutes on each side, spooning the melted butter over the top of them as they cook. Keep an eye on the temperature; it should be hot but not to the point of burning. Reduce the heat if it starts to smoke or colour too much.
Turn off the heat when they are done and leave to stand for a minute. Serve with bread or salad, or sautéed potatoes are good too. Just make sure you spoon over all the buttery spiced juices.