Herring have a long historical connection with the Northeast of England and my great grandfather used to have two beautiful fishing boats in Amble harbour. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing saw the fish run out and the industry decline but these versatile, if unfashionable, fish are still caught in the North Sea today. The rollmop, essentially a pickled herring, has been a staple in Northern Europe since medieval times, probably being more popular in the Baltic areas of Northern Europe than over here. The ones in this recipe are sharp with vinegar and flavoured with spices and dill so the fish tastes fresh, soft and delicious.
SERVES 8
• 4 herrings, ask your fishmonger to fillet them or you can try it yourself, you will still need to check for bones when you get them home
• 60g salt
• 500ml cold water
• 500ml white wine vinegar
• 12 coriander seeds
• 12 black peppercorns
• 6 bay leaves
• 2 tbsp caster sugar
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• 1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
• 3 sprigs of dill
EQUIPMENT
• small pliers or tweezers
• large plastic Tupperware container
• cocktail sticks
• 1 large Kilner jar
Alternatives
mackerel
To start you need to take the fillets off each of the fish as carefully as you can, then remove any bones left in the fillets, running your fingers along the centre of the fillet to feel where they are and pulling them out with some small pliers or tweezers. Dry each of the fillets with kitchen roll, then place them into a plastic Tupperware-type container. Dissolve the salt into the cold water and pour this brine over the herring fillets, then leave for 2–3 hours.
To make the pickling mixture, place the vinegar, coriander seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves, sugar, mustard seeds and shallot in a large pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes. Leave to cool.
When the fillets are ready to come out of the brine, dry them carefully with kitchen roll. You will need a large, sterilized Kilner jar (see page 280) or something similar that seals tightly. Roll up each of the fillets, skin-side out, from tail to head and pack them into your container tightly so they stay rolled. You can secure them with cocktail sticks to make this job easier. Place the dill in and between the fish as you pack them into the jar.
Pour over the pickling marinade, adding all of the spices, and seal the jar. Store them in the fridge for at least 3 days before eating. They will keep for a month or more, and are best between 5–10 days. The longer you leave them, the softer the fish becomes and the more pickled they will taste. Serve with brown bread and soured cream or as part of a picky lunch.