Left to right: Picandou, Fleur Verte

Kölsch and Blonde Ale

STYLE NOTES: Crisp and zippy, with the refreshing prickle of high carbonation, kölsch finds its way into many hands on hot days. Resembling a pilsner in its easy drinkability, it shines in settings that call for a brew with a light touch: at brunch, at the beach, or with an insalata caprese at lunch.

An authentic kölsch comes only from Germany and specifically from the city of Cologne, where it originated as a competitor to Czech pilsner. Brewed anywhere else, it isn’t true kölsch but a kölsch-style beer or blonde ale, the name many brewers use for beers of this style. To many tasters, the differences will be negligible, but a kölsch-style beer, by tradition, should incorporate at least some German hop varieties, while blonde ale is not so restricted.

Pale straw in color, with awesome clarity, kölsch and blonde ale deliver flavor without weight. Everything about them is delicate and dialed back: They have little or no hops aroma, a muted bitterness, and a soft base of sweet, biscuity malt. Some have faintly fruity aromas, like white wine. They are lean and gentle on the palate, and their finish is fresh and dry. Typically under 5 percent alcohol, kölsch and blonde ale make excellent session beers and a good starting point for newcomers to craft beer who aren’t accustomed to the intense flavor of some other styles.

BEERS TO TRY: Alaskan Brewing Summer Ale; Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale; Mission Brewery Blonde Ale; New Belgium Brewing Somersault Ale; Reissdorf Kölsch; Rogue Ales Oregon Golden Ale; Russian River Brewing Aud Blonde; Saint Arnold Brewing Fancy Lawnmower; Samuel Adams East West Kölsch; Ska Brewing True Blonde Ale; Sünner Kölsch.

CHEESE AFFINITIES: Many American craft breweries release their kölsch-style and blonde ales in early summer, with references to warm-weather icons like sandy beaches, porches, and lawn mowers. Accordingly, pair them with the fresh, light cheeses that are so inviting in summer, like ricotta, farmer’s cheese, cottage cheese, feta, fresh goat cheese, mozzarella, and burrata. Even a simple lunch of cottage cheese with tomatoes and cucumbers is an excuse to open a kölsch or blonde ale.

The diminutive Picandou looks like a chalk-white hockey puck and is just the right size for a single serving. A young, rindless goat cheese from France, it has a smooth, soft texture, like natural cream cheese, and a fresh, lemony flavor. Drizzle it with olive oil and bake it just until it quivers, then serve the cheese on a nest of baby greens. Its gentle tang elevates the malty sweetness of a kölsch or blonde ale, and the cheese’s creaminess softens the beer’s carbonation.

California’s small Central Coast Creamery produces Holey Cow, a Baby Swiss with far more character than most cheeses in that uniquely American category. Matured for at least two months, the 10-pound cow’s milk wheels develop dime-sized eyes and a big, buttery aroma with hints of sour cream, salted butter, and custard. Use a cheese plane to shave thin slices for a sandwich or a cheese plate. The flavor is concentrated and sweet, but simple and not too robust for a mild kölsch or blonde ale.

An herb-coated French goat cheese, Fleur Verte (“green flower”) smells like a Provence hillside on a hot summer day. Dried thyme, tarragon, and crushed pink peppercorns coat the exterior, and the scalloped edges on this 5-pound wheel give it a whimsical daisy-like shape. It leaves the creamery when it is only four days old, so Fleur Verte is still moist and delicate when it arrives on American shores. Under its green cloak is a chalk-white interior with a vivid herbaceousness and a lemony finish. Accompany with a salad or grilled vegetables and a chilled kölsch or blonde ale for a perfect summer lunch.

MORE CHEESES TO TRY: Bellwether Farms Crescenza; Calabro Ricotta; Cowgirl Creamery Clabbered Cottage Cheese; Franklin’s Teleme; Mt. Vikos Barrel-Aged Feta; mozzarella; Primo Sale; Redwood Hill Cameo; Vermont Butter & Cheese Fresh Crottin.