Korean Beauty Secrets

The sheer number of product types can be overwhelming and confusing to those new to the Korean skincare approach. If that’s you, there’s no need to be intimidated! In this section, we’ll explore the vast array of product categories and their function. You’ll find that using these products will become intuitive fairly quickly, and that for many of them, you may already be familiar with an equivalent or similar product in your existing routine. Furthermore, there’s no pressure to incorporate every single product category into your routine! Once we move into building your routine, you’ll see that you can incorporate as few or as many of these product types to accommodate your lifestyle, budget, and skincare goals.

This product is exactly what it sounds like—a makeup remover designed specifically for removing point makeup such as lipstick, eyeshadow, eyeliner, and mascara. Korean eye and lip makeup removers tend to be bi-phase formulas, which consist of a watery layer of liquid and an oil- or silicone-based liquid layer, that are designed to be shaken together before applying to a cotton pad for removing makeup.

The aspects of these removers I appreciate most are their affordability—even some the very inexpensive removers perform the same as higher-priced Western equivalents. I also appreciate their efficacy and their mildness. I am a very heavy-eyeliner wearer, and tend to lean on water-resistant eye makeup formulas, so having a remover that quickly and gently removes my eye makeup without a lot of tugging or unpleasant sensations is extremely important

Makeup removal is the first step in what’s often referred to as the “double cleansing” process. Though double cleansing is common in many areas of the world, the concept also happens to be one of many defining characteristics of the Korean skincare approach. Double cleansing is a two-step cleansing process in which the first cleanser is designed to thoroughly remove makeup and sunscreen, and the second cleanser is designed to cleanse the skin of dirt, debris, residue, and in some cases, to exfoliate, once makeup has been removed.

Makeup removing cleansers are the first-step cleanser. An oil cleanser is the go-to standard for this step (and highly effective—it’s a classic for a reason!), though sometimes micellar water, a cream cleanser, a multifunction cleanser, or a balm cleanser is used instead. Let’s take a look at the different types of makeup removing cleansers typically found in the Korean skincare world.

OIL CLEANSERS

Oil cleansers are the most common choice for the first-step cleansing of a double-cleanse routine. These cleansers are oil based, but also contain emulsifying ingredients so they rinse away cleanly. Applied to dry skin, the oil breaks down makeup—even the waterproof stuff. Add a little water, and the cleanser turns into a milky lather that rinses away with no greasy residue.

1. Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil / 2. Innisfree Apple Juicy Cleansing Oil / 3. Whamisa Organic Flower Cleansing Oil / 4. Su:m37 Skin Saver Essential Cleansing Oil / 5. Hera Purifying Cleansing Oil

Balm cleansers are a solid form of an oil cleanser. They have a soft, balmy texture that turns to oil as you rub it into your skin. It breaks down makeup just as an oil cleanser does, and transforms into milky, clean-rinsing lather when water is applied. You also have the option of tissuing this cleanser off in a pinch, but I highly recommend rinsing.

1. Banila Co. Clean It Zero / 2. Su:37 Skin Saver Melting Cleansing Balm / 3. Primera Smooth Cleansing Cream / 4. Skinfood Black Sugar Deep Cleansing Cream

Cream cleansers are a fantastic choice for dry and sensitive skin, since they contain moisturizing ingredients and tend to have a slightly acidic pH. These cleansers have a thick, creamy consistency, not unlike a decadent moisturizer. They remove makeup beautifully when you massage them into dry skin. Add water and the cleanser will emulsify slightly, then rinse away clean. Like the balm cleanser, you can also tissue off this cleanser, but again, I recommend rinsing with water.

If you’re looking for a makeup-removing cleanser you don’t have to rinse away, cleansing water—sometimes referred to as micellar water—is the way to go. Cleansing waters are composed of tiny clusters of surfactant molecules suspended in purified or spring water. Micellar waters have been big in France for a while now, and most skincare enthusiasts are familiar with the Bioderma or La Roche-Posay micellar products. Korean beauty brands have embraced the trend and elevated it by making an array of cleansing waters available, each with its own little twist. Some contain additional anti-inflammatory ingredients, while others contain antioxidants or skin calming extracts.

To use, just apply cleansing water to a clean cotton pad and wipe your makeup away. Because there’s no need for rinsing, it’s ideal for road trips and extended air travel.

Multifunction cleansers remove makeup and cleanse skin in a single step. They tend to have names that contain the phrase “all-in-one,” “three-in-one,” or “dual action.” They usually start off as a viscous gel, then foam into a lather with water and rinse away, taking your dirt and makeup with it. They are generally effective in terms of removing makeup and dirt, though there’s simply no substitute for a double cleanse.

Even though this cleanser is designed to reduce face washing, which in theory seems like it could be gentler on the skin, multifunction cleansers are often harsher and more stripping than other face cleansers, and can leave skin feeling tight and dry after washing. Most multifunction cleansers have a fairly high pH, so they aren’t a great choice for those with sensitive or dehydrated skin. Someone with a strong moisture barrier and an urgent need to shave ninety seconds off of their cleansing routine may enjoy a multifunction cleanser.

Facial wipes are not a new concept, but the selections offered by Korean beauty brands tend to be gentler, less drying, and more luxurious than the wipes we’re used to seeing. Sometimes people get apologetic about using facial wipes to remove makeup, but really—no need to apologize! Sometimes we’re in a car, on a plane, or we’re just exhausted, and a makeup removing wipe is exponentially better than not removing makeup at all.

The goal of your second cleanse is to thoroughly remove any remaining dirt, oil, and residue that may be left behind on your face after you’ve removed your makeup. Second cleansers can take the form of a rich foam, a solid soap, or an exfoliating cleanser. Although there are many options available for this step, it’s important to select a cleanser with a proper pH. Cleansers with a high pH can disrupt your skin’s slightly acidic, protective barrier and raise your skin’s pH over time, leaving it prone to acne, irritation, dehydration, and sensitivity. People with especially hardy moisture barriers may be able to tolerate a slightly higher pH than others.

Your face should never feel tight or dry after your second cleanse—it should feel clean, soft, and ready for the rest of your skincare ritual.

FOAMING CLEANSERS

Foaming cleansers are extremely seductive with their rich, voluminous lather and their soft, creamy consistency. They almost always smell like heaven. I once had a foaming cleanser that smelled and felt so wonderful that I actually daydreamed about going home and washing my face with it while I was at work. Unfortunately, many foaming cleansers—including the one I daydreamed about all day—have a very high pH (8.0–10.00), and are not great for long term use. The good news is, there are quite a few foaming cleansers available that have a great pH range; you just have to look for them. When choosing a foaming cleanser, the ideal pH range is between 5.0–6.0. People with oily skin that is not dehydrated or sensitive may be able to tolerate some of the higher pH foaming cleansers, but lower is still better as a general rule.

SOLID CLEANSERS

Solid cleansers are exactly what they sound like—cleansing bars and face soaps all fall into this category. I used to turn my nose up at all solid cleansers, thinking they weren’t luxurious or gentle enough to use on my face. Most solid cleansers have a pH that’s far too high for daily facial use. Soap, because of the way it’s produced, is an alkaline product. But there are a few Korean brands that offer a class of solid cleansers that are moisturizing, luxurious, effective, and have either a neutral or slightly acidic pH that’s ideal for the face. These solid cleansers are not true soaps, yet they produce a milky lather, and are very effective at removing dirt while being gentle and non-drying on the skin. My favorite solid cleansers are so effective that they can actually be used to remove makeup for my first cleanse as well, making them ideal for travel. I’m finding that many of them are more luxurious than my favorite foaming cleansers were!

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1. Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick / 2. Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 30 Cleansing Foam / 3. Too Cool For School Foamneza Foaming Cleanser / 4. Whamisa Organic Flowers Foam Cleansing Cream / 5. VDL Beauty Cleansing Foam (Sensitive)

EXFOLIATING CLEANSERS

Exfoliating cleansers remove dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion. They also help with reducing the appearance of pore size as well as preventing blackheads. Some exfoliating cleansers are manual exfoliators, meaning they contain sugar or cellulose granules that physically remove the dead skin, while others use acids or enzymes to break down the bonds that adhere dead skin cells to newer cells. Manual exfoliators tend to have the word “polish” or “scrub” in the product name, while chemical exfoliators use words such as “peeling” or “enzyme.” They can come in a range of forms including gel, powder, or a foaming liquid. They’re not intended for daily use; two–three times a week is frequent enough to keep your complexion bright and fresh, but not so frequent that you risk over exfoliating and damaging your skin.

We’ve all heard of a facial toner, but it’s important to know that a typical Korean toner is vastly different in terms of function and ingredients from a Western-style toner. Western toners are designed to provide an additional cleansing function and tend to have astringent properties. A Korean toner, sometimes referred to as a “skin” or “booster,” is designed to add moisture to the skin that might be stripped away during the cleansing process, and to increase the penetration of the skincare products that follow.

Some brands have separate toners and boosters, in which case the booster is applied first to prepare the skin for more products, followed by the toner, which is designed to soften the skin. However, in many skincare lines, the toner and booster are the same product.

Although most Korean toners are of the hydrating variety, there are exceptions. There are a handful of brands that offer low pH, AHA- or BHA-based toners, which provide light exfoliation and adjust the skin’s pH after cleansing. Many people who use an acid-based toner will also follow up with a hydrating toner or booster.

1. Missha Time Revolution: The First Treatment Essence Intensive / 2. COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner / 3. Hanyul Rice Balancing Skin Softner / 4. Iope Bio-Essence Intensive Conditioning

An essence is a lightly hydrating liquid containing skin-beneficial ingredients, usually targeted toward specific skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, dullness, aging, or acne. Its texture can range from that of a watery toner to a thicker, more serum-like consistency. Though an essence and a serum can often be very similar, serums generally have a higher concentration of beneficial ingredients. An ampoule is used to describe a product that’s more densely concentrated than a serum, but sometimes the terms “serum” and “ampoule” are used interchangeably.

It’s not uncommon to have an essence, serum, and an ampoule in a routine, or more than one of any one of the individual product types, in order to target multiple skin troubles.

5. Hanyul White Chrysanthemum Powder Serum / 6. C20 Pure Viramin C21.5 Advanced Serum / 7. Leejiham Tea Tree 90 Essence / 8. Missha Time Revolution: Night Repair Science Activator Borabit Ampoule

An emulsion, sometimes referred to as a lotion, is a moisturizing treatment. It is lighter than a cream, but designed to hydrate and moisturize skin, and contains many of the same active and beneficial ingredients found in an essence, though it’s generally less concentrated.

For people with oily skin or who live in a humid climate, this might be the only moisturizer in their skincare routine. Those with dry skin types may opt to apply a more occlusive cream over the emulsion, particularly in the evening.

Face oils have gained a lot of popularity in the Korean beauty landscape, just as they have across the Americas in recent years. The difference is that Korean brands tend to offer oil blends designed for specific skin concerns. These oils are combined with complimentary ingredients that help increase absorbency and further treat skin concerns. For many, the essence step is where a face oil would typically fit into a Korean skincare routine, although many prefer to use a face oil in place of the emulsion step.

1. Isoi Moisture Face Oil / 2. Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Essential Oil / 3. Banila Co. Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Essence Oil / 4. Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil / 5. The History of Whoo Wild Ginseng AmpouleOil

Creams are meant to provide moisture. For some people, especially those with dry skin, they are an extra moisturizing step in addition to an emulsion or face oil. They are generally thicker than emulsions, often have occlusive properties, and usually come packaged in a jar rather than a pump bottle or tube. Many people skip this step, particularly those with oily skin or people who live in more humid climates, opting to use an emulsion or face oil as their only moisturizer. Those of us with mature or dry skin will find this step indispensable!

However, it’s important to note that not all moisturizing creams are heavy or occlusive. In fact, one of the great advantages Korean skincare brings to people with oily skin types is the vast number of products that cater to them. There is a huge array of moisturizing creams that are composed primarily of humectant ingredients, which provide hydration without being heavy or smothering.

6. Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream / 7. Banila Co. Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Cream / 8. Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream / 9. It’s Skin Prestige Creme Ginseng D’escargot Cream / 10. Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream

If you’re an eye cream fan, you’ll be happy to know that there is a vast selection of Korean eye creams available. Eye creams aren’t a necessary step for many—your regular facial products should perform just as well in your eye area as they do on the rest of your face. However, there are cases where having a separate eye cream is extremely beneficial. You should consider a product specifically made for your eye area if:

• The skin in your eye area has a significantly different moisturizing need than the rest of your face.

• The skin around your eyes tends to be drier than the rest of your face, then it makes sense to use a richer cream in that area. Conversely, if your facial cream is too rich for your eye area or you’re experiencing milia seeds from your regular facial moisturizer, it’s smart to use a lighter cream or gel for your eyes.

• You’re not ready for an anti-aging ingredient such as retinol on your face, but your eyes are in need of some extra wrinkle-fighting power.

• You want to treat an issue that you have only around your eyes, such as dullness, darkness, or puffiness.

1. Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Renovating Eye Cream / 2. The History of Whoo Hwanyu Eye Cream /3. Missha MISA Geumsul Vitalizing Eye Cream / 4. Innisfree Perfect 9 Repair Eye Cream

A spot treatment can be a number of things—acne treatment, whitening serum, wrinkle filler, etc. Many acne treatments fall into this category. There are spot treatments for other skin concerns as well, such as lighteners that contain ingredients designed to fade stubborn hyperpigmentation spots, and there are even spot treatments that address the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

The qualities that define a spot treatment can be a bit nebulous, but some good qualifiers include:

5. Ciracle Pimple Solution Pink Powder / 6. Mizon Acence Blemish Spot Solution Serum / 7. Laneige Time Freeze Wrinkle Filler / 8. Lirikos Marine White Perfection Spot Stick

Sun protection is simply the most effective, repeatedly proven defense we have against dark spots, skin damage, fine lines, and wrinkles. I can’t emphasize enough how essential a stand-alone sunscreen is when it comes to keeping skin healthy and in slowing the effects of aging! I specify “stand-alone” for a reason. Many people use a daytime moisturizer or foundation with built-in sun protection, but the unfortunate truth is that those products are not supplying anyone with adequate UV protection. The reason for this is that we need to use ¼ teaspoon of sunscreen on our face in order to obtain the amount of sun protection advertised on the product label—¼ teaspoon is a lot! It’s about the diameter of a cherry—and most people aren’t using that much moisturizer or (we can hope) foundation.

The good news is that Korean skincare brands offer a wide variety of amazing stand-alone sunscreen formulas. Forget about the thick, white, pasty sunblocks you slather on for a day at the beach—Korean sunscreen formulas feel weightless, absorb quickly, and wear extremely well underneath makeup.

When choosing a Korean sunscreen, look for a formula that offers a high SPF (that’s the UVB protection) and a high PA rating (that’s the UVA protection). The PA rating is a measurement of UVA protection, used for any sunscreen manufactured and sold in Asian countries. The PA rating system originated in Japan, and is based on the widely used PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, a system of measuring UVA protection used in European countries.

The PA system ranges from PA+ to PA++++, and each level corresponds with a range of PPD measurements. Here’s how the PA system equates with the PPD system:

Note: As of 2015, Korean sunscreens only go up to PA+++, as the PA++++ criterion was newly introduced in Japan at the end of 2012 and has not yet expanded out of the country.

1. TonyMoly My Sunny Clear Sun Spray SPF50 PA+++ / 2. Hera Sun Mate Leports SPF50 PA+++ /3. Missha All-Around Safe Block Soft Finish Sun Milk SPF50 PA+++ / 4. Dr.G Brightening Up Sun Cream SPF42 PA+++ / 5. Goodal Mild Protect Natural Filter Sun Cream SPF50 PA+++

Sheet masks are thin sheets of material soaked in a treatment essence or serum designed to infuse the skin with an immediate burst of hydration, and they may also target specific skin concerns. They’re applied to the face, and have holes cut out for the eyes, nose, and mouth. Sheet masks can do a number of things—some of them are moisturizing, some are exfoliating, some are brightening, and some are nourishing. They also possess the unfailing ability to make anyone look like an axe murderer for the fifteen to twenty minute duration they’re being worn, but I consider this a selling point. Most sheet masks are meant to be applied after the toner/booster step, and for some people, they replace the essence/serum step altogether.

The essences the sheet masks are soaked in are truly what make or break a particular mask. All sheet masks contain a plentiful helping of humectants, which is why the hydrating effects tend to be so instant and dramatic. The most popular humectants used in sheet mask essences are glycerin, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol, though some of the nicer masks may use hyaluronic acid, honey, or aloe. In addition to the humectant ingredients, the essences also contain penetration enhancers to help the skin absorb the product, as well as additional ingredients designed to target specific skin conditions. Popular skin-beneficial ingredients include niacinamide, green tea, ginseng, and snail secretion filtrate, but in the world of sheet masks, anything is possible.

Sheet masks are available in a few different materials, and each of the varying materials performs a little differently.

FIBER/PULP

Fiber masks and pulp masks are the most prevalent sheet masks. They’re typically one continuous piece of material and made from cotton, paper, or some kind of synthetic cellulose. These types of sheet masks are abundantly available, come in an endless array of “flavors,” and generally do an effective job replenishing hydration levels in the skin, provided the essence they’re soaking in is plentiful and formulated well.

HYDRO GEL

Hydro gels are quickly gaining popularity in the sheet mask scene. These sheet masks usually come in two parts—one for the top half of the face and another for the bottom half. The warmth of your skin helps the mask adhere closely to the contours of your face, making for a close fit, though sliding is still often an issue.

The hydro gel mask is not soaked in essence; instead, the essence is actually mixed in with the gelatin during production. For this reason, evaporation isn’t much of a problem. These masks feel extremely cool and soothing during wear. Hydro gel masks are generally priced a bit higher than fiber and pulp masks.

BIO CELLULOSE

Bio cellulose masks are the latest material to burst onto the sheet mask scene. Bio cellulose is a material used in biomedicine as artificial skin to heal burns and treat wounds, and is now being utilized by the cosmetic industry. What makes it a unique material is its ability to hold 100 times its dry weight in fluid, which is a great quality for a product designed to hold essence against the skin for an extended period of time. These masks are made of a single sheet, which adheres closely and evenly to the skin. Additionally, the material is 100 percent biodegradable. Bio cellulose sheet masks are priced similarly to hydro gels.

1. Soo Ae Hanbang Sanghwang Essence Mask / 2. Whamisa Organic Sea Kelp Facial Sheet Mask / 3. Freeset Donkey Milk Skin Gel Mask Pack Aqua

A sleeping pack, also called a sleeping mask, is an overnight skin treatment that comes in a tub or a tube. It’s designed to be applied on the face as your last skincare step in the evening in order to provide hydration and other skincare benefits while you sleep. It can be used in addition to or in lieu of a nighttime moisturizing cream, depending on your needs.

The frequency of use varies depending on your preferences—some people find it beneficial to use a sleeping pack every night, while others only reach for it a few times a week. If you’re a side sleeper and worried about covering your pillow in greasy face products—don’t be. Most sleeping packs absorb completely in the same way a moisturizer does. Additionally, there are so many different textures, thicknesses, and absorbency rates in sleeping pack products, if you’re not happy with the first one you try, it’s worth it to keep experimenting. There’s bound to be an option that you’ll fall in love with.

4. Laneige Water Sleeping Mask / 5. Isoi Bulgarian Rose Intensive Lifting Corest Mask / 6. Innisfree Green Tea Sleeping Pack / 7. Leejuham (LJH) Probiotics Sleeping Cream

Skin finishers are a relatively new category of product in the skincare world, and their function blurs the line a bit between skincare and makeup. They are light in texture, and usually have some sort of opalescent quality imparted by the micronized pearl particles they contain. As a skincare product, skin finishers contain ingredients that help form a thin barrier over your other products, helping to maintain moisture throughout the day and maximize their skincare benefits. Skin finisher formulas also tend to include plant extracts with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, or other skin-benefiting properties. As a makeup product, the micronized pearl has a luminizing effect on the skin, and the finisher also acts as a primer to help keep your makeup in place throughout the day.

Wash-off masks are another item that you’re probably already familiar with. If you’re a fan of these types of treatments, you’ll be excited to learn that there’s a huge range of spectacular products in this category offered by Korean beauty brands! They vary in both texture and function, ranging from simple moisturizing masks, to exfoliating treatments, to brightening masks. The application method is the same as the one you already know: apply the mask treatment to clean skin, leave it on for the period of time specified on the packaging, then rinse away, and continue the rest of your skincare routine.

1. Sulwhasoo Luminature Essential Finisher / 2. Missha Geumsul Giyun Vitalizing Finisher / 3. Mamonde Gold Honey Pack / 4. Laneige Multiberry Yogurt Pack

A massage cream, sometimes called a massage mask or massage pack, is a rich cream or balm that provides an intensive moisturizing treatment for the face. This product is designed for people who are suffering from fatigued, lackluster, or dull skin. They are massaged generously but gently onto clean skin for anywhere from two to five minutes. Methods for removal vary widely depending on the product: some products are to be tissued off, some rinse with water, and others are not to be removed at all, but are simply pressed into the skin. One thing all massage packs do have in common is that they are all very decadent, and they are an especially luxurious treat for dry skin.

5. Missha MISA Yei Hyun Glowing Massage / 6. O Hui Clear Science Tender Massage Cream / 7. Innisfree Orchid Massage Cream / 8. Skinfood Royal Honey Hydro Massage Gel / 9. Lirikos Marine Revital Massage Cream

Facial mists are watery sprays fortified with plant extracts and hydrating ingredients. They come in bottles or cans, and are meant to be used as a supplemental hydrator throughout the day. They’re very useful in both warm and cold weather. On hot summer days, they’re a refreshing burst of cool relief after spending time in the sun. In cold weather, they offer hydration after spending time in the dry air caused by central heating systems. The formulas for facial mists are light, watery, and non-greasy, which makes them compatible with all skin types, and they are light enough that they can be sprayed over makeup.

1. Amorepacific Time Response Skin Renewal Mist / 2. Whamisa Organic Flowers Olive Leaf Mist /3. Mizon Snail Repair Hydro Mist / 4. Nature Republic Bee Venom Mist Essence / 5. The History of Whoo Soo Yeon Mist