2.4 / BUILDING YOUR ROUTINE

Building your customized Korean skincare routine shouldn’t be intimidating—it should be fun! Once you know what you’re looking for and what you want to avoid, the process is very enjoyable. The best way to start building your routine is by assessing your skin type and identifying your skincare concerns. If you have a clear idea of what your skincare goals are, you’ll cut out a lot of guesswork when it comes to selecting products that will help you achieve your best complexion.

Additionally, it’s important to keep in mind that everyone’s skin is different. People may have different ingredient sensitivities, and there may be outside factors that impact the efficacy of certain skincare products such as climate, air quality, or lifestyle differences. As you build your routine and introduce new products, pay close attention to how your skin looks and feels. Even if a product is highly praised and well-loved by many, there’s always a chance it might not be right for you.

Your routine should be customized for your needs and lifestyle. The most effective skincare routine is a consistent routine, so if an elaborate eight- to twelve-step skincare routine doesn’t sound like something that fits your lifestyle, don’t worry! You can create an effective routine with just a handful of the right products. On the other hand, if you have the discipline, desire, and the need for a more elaborate routine, you’ll be able to find products that address all of your skin concerns.

INTRODUCING NEW PRODUCTS

PATCH TESTING

When trying any new skincare product, there’s always a risk that you could react negatively to an ingredient. To prevent a full-blown catastrophe, be sure to patch test new products before you incorporate them into your routine. To test, apply the new product to your test area, and watch it over the next twenty-four to forty-eight hours to see how your skin reacts. The best places to test are behind your ear or on the underside of your forearm.

Some people will react fairly immediately to a product, while others take a bit longer to show negative effects. With so many variables at play, it’s wise to patch test for at least a couple of days before committing a product to your entire face.

ONE PRODUCT AT A TIME

It’s also best to introduce only one new product at a time. If you introduce multiple new products at once and have a bad reaction, you’ll have no way of knowing which product is the culprit! Try to space your new product introductions apart by at least a week.

COMMON QUESTIONS

Do all my products need to be from the same skincare line?

They can be, but they don’t have to be. If you’re just beginning your Korean skincare journey, using a single line can be an easy and straightforward way to familiarize yourself with the steps in your new routine. Using the same line for all your products is also a safe choice because the formulations have been designed to work well with one another, and can be especially beneficial if you’ve chosen a line to address a single skin concern, such as evening your skin tone. All of the products in that line will contain ingredients that address that particular issue, and work in synergy with one another.

However, if you have multiple skin issues you’d like to address, your best solutions won’t all come from the same skincare line. Unless you have very few skin concerns, you’ll need to shop different lines to assemble an optimal routine for your skincare goals. Also, as you progress in your skincare journey, you’re going to find a variety of product formulations that work really well for you, and chances are they will not only be from separate lines, but different brands as well. Assembling a routine composed of all the “best in show” products for your skin is incredibly effective and satisfying, but it will be nearly impossible to make that happen if you restrict yourself to a single skincare line indefinitely.

How long will it take to know if a product is effective?

Your facial skin renews itself over the course of a month. You might be able to see some of the more basic effects a product has on your skin within a couple of days, such as the amount of moisture it provides or whether there are any short term brightening, soothing, or anti-inflammatory improvements. But you won’t be able to get a solid idea of what a product’s long term impact will be until about four weeks into its usage.

The exception, of course, is if you have a bad reaction to a product, such as irritation, contact dermatitis—really, anything negative that happens suddenly after starting a new product. If this happens, you should stop using that product immediately.

Is it possible to use too many products?

It is! And you’ll know when you’ve overdone it. Pay attention to how your face looks and feels, especially when you’re working on assembling a new skincare routine. If your face is consistently too sticky, too oily, too dry, too anything—you’re probably using too many products, or too much of one particular thing. The exception to this rule is if you find your skin is suddenly too perfect. In that case, everything is fine and you should carry on with what you’re doing.

LAYERING & ORDER OF APPLICATION

When beginning a Korean skincare routine for the first time, figuring out the order in which products should be applied can be overwhelming. In this section, we’ll be exploring some basic guidelines to help steer you through your product application. Here are some core general guidelines for determining the order of your application:

1. Apply your products in order from the lightest weight to the heaviest. This allows for maximum absorption of each of the products, and ensures that your thinner, water-rich layers are safely tucked beneath your smoothing emollient and occlusive products.

2. Sometimes brands will prescribe a product order that deviates slightly from the lightest-to-heaviest approach. In this instance, it’s best to follow the brand’s recommendations.

3. If you’re using a pH-dependent product such as a low-pH acid toner, an AHA, BHA, or a vitamin C serum, it’s best to apply those at the beginning of your routine, just after cleansing. These products function best when skin is at its natural, slightly acidic pH, and applying other products first could interfere with their performance.

The following are examples of application order for morning and evening routines. Your own routine may differ, but these provide a good starting point for determining the sequence of your regemin.

Morning Routine Layering Examples
SIMPLE STEP 1: CLEANSE STEP 2: HYDRATING TONER STEP 3: ESSENCE STEP 4: EMULSION or OIL STEP 5: SUNSCREEN	INTERMEDIATE STEP 1: CLEANSE STEP 2: HYDRATING TONER STEP 3: ESSENCE STEP 4: SERUM STEP 5: EMULSION or OIL STEP 6: SUNSCREEN
ADVANCED NORMAL / DRY STEP 1: CLEANSE STEP 2: LOW PH TONER STEP 3: VITAMIN C* STEP 4: HYDRATING TONER STEP 5: ESSENCE STEP 6: EMULSION or FACE OIL STEP 7: CREAM STEP 8: SUNSCREEN	ADVANCED OILY / COMBINATION STEP 1: CLEANSE STEP 2: LOW PH TONER STEP 3: BHA SERUM* STEP 4: VITAMIN C* STEP 5: HYDRATING TONER STEP 6: ESSENCE STEP 7: EMULSION or OIL STEP 8: SUNSCREEN

* Optional wait time of ten to fifteen minutes for pH-dependent products to maximize efficacy. If using both vitamin C and BHA, you can apply both before beginning your wait time. Always wear daytime sunscreen when using pH-dependent products!

Evening Routine Layering Examples
SIMPLE STEP 1: MAKEUP REMOVAL CLEANSE STEP 2: FACIAL CLEANSE STEP 3: HYDRATING TONER STEP 4: ESSENCE STEP 5: EMULSION or OIL	INTERMEDIATE STEP 1: MAKEUP REMOVAL CLEANSE STEP 2: FACIAL CLEANSE STEP 3: HYDRATING TONER STEP 4: SHEET MASK STEP 5: SERUM STEP 6: EMULSION or OIL STEP 7: SLEEPING PACK
ADVANCED NORMAL / DRY STEP 1: MAKEUP REMOVAL CLEANSE STEP 2: FACIAL CLEANSE STEP 3: LOW PH TONER STEP 4: AHA or BHA SERUM* STEP 5: HYDRATING TONER STEP 6: SHEET MASK STEP 7: AMPOULE / SERUM STEP 8: CREAM STEP 9: SLEEPING PACK STEP 10: SPOT TREATMENT	ADVANCED OILY / COMBINATION STEP 1: MAKEUP REMOVAL CLEANSE STEP 2: FACIAL CLEANSE STEP 3: LOW PH TONER STEP 4: AHA or BHA SERUM* STEP 5: HYDRATING TONER STEP 6: SHEET MASK STEP 7: AMPOULE / SERUM STEP 8: EMULSION or OIL STEP 9: SLEEPING PACK STEP 10: SPOT TREATMENT

* Optional wait time of ten to fifteen minutes for pH-dependent products to maximize efficacy. If using both AHA and BHA, you can apply both before beginning your wait time.

SKINCARE PRODUCT SHOPPING CHEAT SHEETS

The most important part of product selection is in choosing products that address your skincare goals. Whether you’re shopping online or in-person, it can be helpful to have a quick reference of what you’re looking for to help you determine how effective a product will be for your need. In the pages that follow, you’ll find a series of cheat sheets for various skin types and concerns. Use these as a reference as you shop for your new Korean skincare products, and let the fun begin!

BY SKIN TYPE

GOALS:	What you should be aiming for
PRODUCTS:	Which product types will help you get there
AVOID:	What will hinder your progress
KEYWORDS:	Words to look for in product names and descriptions

Normal Skin
GOALS:	Keeping your skin healthy and slowing the onset of aging by maintaining hydration levels, loading up with antioxidants, and protecting yourself against UV damage.
PRODUCTS:	Refreshing hydrating toners and first essences, antioxidant-rich serums or ampoules, light emulsions or face oils.
AVOID:	Products designed for skin concerns you don’t have. When in doubt, products made for combination skin are usually a good choice for those with normal skin as well.
KEYWORDS:	Combination, balancing, nutrition, aqua, hydrating

Dry Skin
GOALS:	Dry skin loves humectants, so layer them on, then seal them in with a veil of occlusive or emollient moisture. It’s okay to be indulgent! Dry skin is one of the best skin types to have if you enjoy a decadent skincare routine.
PRODUCTS:	Humectant-rich hydrating toners, face oils, emulsions, and moisturizing creams with emollient and occlusive properties.
AVOID:	Alkaline/high-pH cleansers and products made for oily skin. These products are easy to spot, and usually contain the words pore, sebum, oil-free, or tightening
KEYWORDS:	Aqua, bomb (e.g., water bomb), nutrition, rejuvenate, rich, moisture

Oily Skin
GOALS:	Hydration is extremely important, but some heavier products can make oily skin worse. Focus on primarily humectent moisturizers so your face will stay hydrated without feeling greasy.
PRODUCTS:	Refreshing, hydrating toners, light emulsions, and gel-based creams. Pore serums and clay or charcoal-based masks are also great choices.
AVOID:	Heavier face oils and richer, more occlusive creams
KEYWORDS:	Balancing, oil-free, pore

Combination Skin
GOALS:	Humectants to the rescue again—they provide beneficial moisture to all skin types. Seal in the humectant moisture with an emollient face oil or emulsion on the dry areas of your face.
PRODUCTS:	Refreshing, hydrating toners and first essences, antioxidant-rich serums or ampoules, light emulsions or face oils
AVOID:	Products that are either far too occlusive for your oily areas or not moisturizing enough for dry areas. If your dry and oily zones areas are very different, it’s okay to use different products for parts of your face.
KEYWORDS:	Combination, balancing, aqua, and hydrating

BY SKIN CONCERN

TIPS:	Hints for approaching your concern
INGREDIENTS:	Which ingredients will help address skin concerns
KEYWORDS:	Words to look for in product names and descriptions

Acne
TIPS:	Using an entire line of anti-acne products can be harsh on the skin. Start with an essence or serum designed for acne while keeping the rest of your routine optimized for other skin concerns.
INGREDIENTS
TREAT & PREVENT ACTIVE ACNE:	Azealic acid, bee venom, betaine salicylate, charcoal, clay, ginkgo biloba, glycolic acid, l-ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, niacinamide, retinoids, tea tree oil
SOOTHE INFLAMMATION & REDNESS:	Adenosine, aloe vera, bee venom, donkey milk, ginkgo biloba, honey, nelumbo nucifera, propolis, snail secretion filtrate, willow bark extract, yogurt, zinc oxide
TREAT & PREVENT MARKS AND SCARS:	Arbutin, astragalus membranaceus root, azealic acid, betaine salicylate, centella asiatica, chrysanthellum indicum, glycolic acid, l-ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, licorice root, morus alba/mulberry extract, nelumbo nucifera, niacinamide, snail secretion filtrate, retinoids
KEYWORDS:	Trouble, blemish, pore, clear, BHA, spot, tea tree

Dullness, Hyperpigmentation, & Uneven Tone
TIPS:	Before investing in an entire routine focused on only perfecting skin tone or on brightening dullness, try a single essence, serum, or ampoule geared toward that concern. You may find that one product does the trick, allowing you to focus on other concerns for remaining products in your lineup.
INGREDIENTS:	Arbutin, astragalus membranaceus root, azealic acid, betaine salicylate, centella asiatica, chrysanthellum indicum, glycolic acid, l-ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, licorice root, morus alba/mulberry extract, nelumbo nucifera, niacinamide, snail secretion filtrate, retinoids
KEYWORDS:	Bright, white, mela, snow

Dehydration
TIPS:	Dehydration is the result of a damaged moisture barrier. The best way to repair and strengthen your skin’s protective barrier is to keep it well-moisturized with humectents sealed beneath a layer of emollient and occlusive products rich in fatty acids. It’s especially important for dehydrated skin to cleanse with products that have a lower pH of 5.0—6.0.
INGREDIENTS:	Aloe vera, animal-based oils, ceramide, cocoa butter, donkey milk, goat milk, honey, lactobacillus, mango seed butter, plant-based carrier oils (e.g., argan, olive, sesame, etc.), shea butter, squalane
KEYWORDS:	Nutrition, healing, repair, rich, EX

Wrinkles & Fine Lines
TIPS:	There is a very short list of ingredients that can actually reduce wrinkles long term. To delay the onset of future lines, wear sunscreen daily, keep skin hydrated, and nourish your skin with antioxidants.
INGREDIENTS
REDUCE EXISTING FINE LINES & WRINKLES:	Azealic acid, glycolic acid, l-ascorbic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, niacinamide, retinoids
PREVENT FINE LINES & WRINKLES:	All moisturizing ingredients, all UV filters, niacinamide, retinoids, antioxidant extracts
TEMPORARILY REDUCE WRINKLE APPEARANCE:	Caffiene, collagen, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, syn-ake
KEYWORDS:	Anti-aging, defense, future, lifting, refine, renew, renovate, repair, rejuvenate

Sensitivity
TIPS:	No two sensitive skins are alike. Your individual sensitives to specific ingredients or environmental conditions will differ greatly from someone else’s, even if their symptoms are similar to yours.
INGREDIENTS:	Aloe vera, (betaine, ceramide, chamomile, chrysanthellum indicum, cnidium officinale, cocoa butter, cucumber, donkey milk, goat milk, green tea, honey, lactobacillus, mango seed butter, oatmeal, plant-based carrier oils (e.g., argan, olive, sesame, etc.), propolis, shea butter, squalane, willow bark extract, yeast (sacchromyces) ferment
KEYWORDS:	Sensitive, gentle, calming, soothing