2.5 / EXAMPLE ROUTINES
To show you how different routines can be from person to person, we’ve rounded up our favorite K-beauty bloggers, all with varying skin types and concerns, to share their skincare routines with you! We’ve also included our own routines. Whether you’re looking for a starting point, or you’re seeking out some inspiring ways to change your current skincare lineup, these examples may have just what you need to take your skin to the next level.
Remember that everyone’s skin is unique, so people have varying sensitivities and levels of responsiveness to product formulations and ingredients. Even if your concerns are identical to someone else’s, there’s always a possibility that a product that worked miracles for them won’t be as magical for you. Don’t forget to patch test, introduce one new product at a time, and don’t be afraid to do a little research before splurging on something new!
This section includes example skincare routines from:
FANSERVICED-B
RYANRAROAR
SNOW WHITE & THE ASIAN PEAR
FIFTY SHADES OF SNAIL
HELLO PRETTY BIRD!
MEMORABLE DAYS
THE WANDERLUST PROJECT
THE BEAUTY WOLF
SKIN & TONICS
FANSERVICED-B
Fan-b details my life as an NYC-based K-beauty fangirl with oily, blemished skin. I review Korean skincare and makeup products suitable for my troubled skin, talk about products endorsed by my favorite K-pop stars, post photos from the many brick-and-mortar K-beauty stores popping up in NYC, and share shopping and Korean language resources.
SKIN TYPE
Oily and blemished, all tied firmly to hormones
SKIN CONCERNS
Hormonal acne, also acne, did I mention acne? Not destroying my skin in the process of treating said acne.
HOW I GOT INTO KOREAN BEAUTY PRODUCTS
I got into Korean beauty because the K-pop boybands I like endorse products by popular lines such as Etude House, Nature Republic, and The Saem. I went off in search of endorsement posters in NYC Korean beauty shops like Nature Republic, discovered that snail in beauty products is a thing (initially I was disgusted by this, thinking that the snails were ground up and added to the products), and accidentally fell down the rabbit hole.
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Foam Cleanse
I start my routine with a low-pH cleanser. I use a peanut-sized dot, add some water in order to create foam, and gently rub this onto my face. I often cradle my face in the foam and just think about how much I want to stick my head in the toilet rather than going to work.
MY FAVORITE CLEANSER:
Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 30 Cleansing Foam
LJH’s foaming cleanser takes the cake because it manages to get my skin clean, very-slightly moisturized, and fresh-feeling without making it squeaky and stripped.
2. pH-Adjusting Toner
The point of this step is to just take my skin from a higher pH into a range closer to exfoliation level so that acids and exfoliants can get to work on turning over cells. It’s not glamorous, but it’s necessary. I apply my toner with a Purederm Micro-Fiber Pad (basically a gentle, nice cotton pad) to keep from applying too much product, and to make sure that the application is even across my face. I swipe this all over and let it dry—it takes about thirty seconds to move on to the next step.
MY CURRENT TONER:
COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
This toner lowers my skin’s pH to pave the way for the work of my vitamin C treatment. It’s not terribly exciting, but the ingredient list is straightforward and simple—and it doesn’t include alcohol.
3. Vitamin C/Exfoliation
Vitamin C is a recent addition to my routine. I’ve owned vitamin C serums for months now, but they ended up in my fridge in hopes of staving off oxidation after an initial test of both. Here’s the thing about vitamin C: it will rip through your blemishes, and the necessary waiting time to let it work is a pain. I kind of love the skin destruction effect, since it means that even stubborn cystic acne is forced to have a day of reckoning and die, but there’s a whole lot of drying and purging all at once. Don’t start this immediately before a big event if you have acne because, seriously, your skin will be sent to Heaven whether it wants to go or not.
Vitamin C also has brightening effects and it helps with lightening hyperpigmentation left over from past blemishes. At this point I’m still riding the crazy-purge train, but my skin does look quite bright.
I apply a ton of this since I feel like my time is more valuable than the serum and I’d rather waste serum than time. I give it fifteen minutes to do its thing, spray it with some water micro mist, and then wipe off anything that wants to budge and sometimes I straight-up rinse it off in the sink.
CURRENTLY TESTING:
C20 and C21.5
C20 is an older formula that is slightly stickier and contains alcohol. C21 is newer with no alcohol and no niacinamide. Perhaps due to the alcohol, I actually find that the C20 works better for me, believe it or not. Skincare companies know that alcohol can be drying, but they sometimes choose to include it because it can increase the efficacy of the active ingredients. I’m going to continue testing both to try to determine which wins a place in my routine. It may be that my wild over-application technique will force me to go with the gentler C21.5 version.
4. Nutritious First Essence
I apply the first essence with a Purederm Micro-Fiber Pad to keep from applying too much product and to make sure that the application is even across my face. I swipe this all over and let it dry—it takes about 1 minute to move on to the next step.
Here’s my feeling about oily, blemish-prone skin: once you’re done with acids and prescription steps, treat it like a queen. If you’re using all of that acid stuff on it, it may need some love, water, and oil to look good in the present and glow. Make the parts of your skin that don’t have blemishes gorgeous right now by giving them nice things.
MY FAVORITE FIRST ESSENCE:
Goodal Waterest Tone Up First Essence
What I like about this first essence is that it not only contains fermented green tea, but also fermented oils. My skin has gotten vastly happier since I’ve incorporated Goodal products containing fermented oils into the start of my routine; it delivers small quantities of the rich stuff early and deeply, which is necessary since even a bit of straight oil later in my routine can make my skin grouchy and too oily looking.
5. Hydration Booster
This step is pretty specific to the Goodal line. I like the Goodal Water Oil a lot because it delivers water-based moisture and fermented oils into my skin, and also adds a moisture-grabbing gum to the surface of my skin before I apply essences.
Two pumps cover my face and dry in about two minutes, leaving my skin not exactly sticky, but sort of thirsty for the next steps. I use this to make sure that my skin is soft and fluffy even if I’m hitting it hard with a lot of exfoliants—it’s super in winter, especially to prevent cold-related tightness.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Goodal Waterest Lasting Water Oil
6. Hydrating Mist
At any point in my skincare routine when I feel like my skin is anything but dewy, I apply a hydrating micro mist. The idea is that dry skin has a harder time absorbing the things you add to your face. There’s a lot of talk about applying the first post cleansing step quickly after turning from the basin in order to avoid moisture loss: using the micro-mist is a way to fake that moisturized look whenever you want.
I used to groan at mists because I thought they were fussy and annoying, but once I tried micro-mists, I saw the light. Without having to even touch your face, you can have a nutrient-rich layer of water sandwiched between your skincare layers. Sounds nice, eh? I like to apply this right after the water oil. One quick spray all over my face gets me glowing.
MY CURRENT MIST:
Clio Micro Fine Collagen Mist
This is a pretty standard micro mist with the addition of plant collagen. I’m not certain that I really need the collagen and I’d like something lighter in the future, so I’m looking to try a few other varieties to see what delivers more than just water without adding weight to my layers.
7., 8., and 9. Essences & Serums
Essences and serums are my favorite steps of all, I feel like this is where I get to slap things together like a mad chef in the kitchen. Here is where I try to target certain concerns. This is also where my skin benefits most from the genius of Korean skincare science. I like to layer just about anything related to acne treatment and healing in this step, one after the other, from lightest to heaviest in terms of thickness. This is kind of excessive, but I have a ridiculous amount of great products that my skin loves, so I go a bit wild.
THE PRODUCT I MUST USE EVERY DAY:
Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 90 Essence
It’s been one year since I fell in love with LJH’s tea tree essence and my affection for it has not waned. It’s packed with good stuff for blemished skin and calms existing spots like no other. Since publishing my reviews of this essence I’ve heard from many people who have become addicted to this fairly light, not very moisturizing, non-astringent essence due to its magical calming properties.
10. Moisturizing Cream + Ampoules
I always try to wear a moisturizer—my hope is that by the end of my routine, my skin is balanced and happy, and still able to handle a light cream. Since I pack fermented oil and plant collagen into the early stages of my routine, I don’t always need much at the end, depending on the condition of my skin and the weather. I take an almond-sized amount of cream, add one drop of ampoule, mix it together in my palm, and slather it on.
THE PRODUCTS I USE MOST OFTEN:
SN Plant Stem Cell Cream + 1 drop of Soy Bio+ Ampoule
The SN cream is miraculously good at controlling oil and providing just a bit of moisture. I mix one drop of Soy Bio+’s divine fermented soybean extract ampoule into my cream to give my skin a glow without oiliness.
11. Sunscreen
My skin gets two rounds of exfoliation, once in the morning and once at night, so it’s essential that I protect all that new skin I’m exposing by applying sunscreen at the end of my morning routine. I very much prefer sunscreens that feel like proper skincare to the heavier versions made commonly outside of Asia.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++ (Japanese)
This sunscreen in stupidly awesome—it protects at the highest level possible, PA++++, and it actually feels good on my skin. From the moment I tried it, I was absolutely in love—it’s the sunscreen for people who thought they hated sunscreen.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Oil Cleanse
I start my evening routine with an oil cleanser. I’ve tested tons of first-step cleansers, but I really prefer oil to get all of my makeup and sunscreen off efficiently and without leaving any residue. A good first-step cleanser is important because sometimes I come home and feel like my makeup has been infiltrated by NYC’s foul, sticky, black dust.
MY FAVORITE CLEANSER:
Leejiham Dr’s Care Cleansing Oil
The thing that’s fantastic about this oil is that it efficiently removes makeup without leaving anything behind; other cleansing oils add moisture, but this one just banishes all the gross stuff, while adding nothing in its place. It’s basically relief in a bottle.
2. Foam Cleanse
I continue with a low-pH cleanser. As far as cleansers go, I’m looking for something with a pH level that’s lower than tap water. I use a peanut-sized dot, add some water in order to create foam, and gently rub this onto my face.
MY FAVORITE CLEANSER:
Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 30 Cleansing Foam
3. Makeup Remover
I try to get all of my makeup off by using oil, but it doesn’t always play well with my contacts. I don’t sweat it and just use a two-layer silicone makeup remover to wipe off all traces of my tarantula-lashes after I’m finished with my cleaning routine.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Laneige Lip and Eye Makeup Cleanser Waterproof
This product is so great that even I, a product junkie, happily settled down with it after trying a deluxe sample. To use it, just shake it up, apply it to a cotton pad, and swipe it away. Everything comes off without a problem—and without disturbing my contacts.
2. pH-Adjusting Toner
Same as the the pH-adjusting step from my morning routine—preparing my skin for exfoliation is equally as important in the evening.
MY CURRENT TONER:
COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
5. BHA
My skin desperately needs BHAs—otherwise knows as salicylic acid—in order to function without having a meltdown. BHAs exfoliate the surface of skin, go in and unblock clogged pores, and are anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. After adding the right BHA to my routine, along with fermented oil skincare products, my pores begin giving up all the nasty, gritty clogs that had been hiding in there forever. Yuck. But awesome.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Stridex Maximum Strength (North American)
I never considered using Stridex until hearing about it from other skincare fans—it always seemed way too “high school jock boy drying his face with alcohol” to me. It turns out it is exactly what my face needed: a straight shot of serious 2% salicylic acid (with no alcohol) that isn’t excessively drying to my skin and adds no residue.
6. Prescription Medication
Prescription medication is something I added to my routine about nine months ago, and it’s been good, but it’s still not enough to overcome the war of hormones going on inside. I use it consistently, to clear my pores of old grime and create a net that catches anything that’s caused by my envioronment. I apply two to three pumps of this, carefully avoiding my eyes and mouth and then make sure it gets a solid forty-five minutes to do its thing in peace.
THE PRESCRIPTION I USE:
Pocketderm: 0.04% Tretinoin, 1% Clindamycin, 7% Azelaic Acid
Tretinoin is like a skin-cell life coach, clindamycin is an antibiotic, and azelaic acid helps to heal acne caused by bacteria. I like the Pocketderm service because I’m lazy and this just gets mailed to me; if prescription acne medication were any more difficult to get, I’d probably just skip it.
7. Either Fall Asleep or Continue with Essence
Forty-five minutes is a long time to wait at night for my prescription medication to work. Since Pocketderm’s formula contains moisturizers, I’m a-okay with collapsing into my pillow and going to sleep after I apply it. If I’m feeling more awake, or if I started my routine earlier, I’ll continue with the one essential essence in my stash. My skin likes it a whole lot more if I stay up late to pamper it, but ultimately the needs of my brain come before the needs of my brain’s container.
MY FAVORITE ESSENCE:
Leejiham (LJH) Tea Tree 90 Essence
8. Cream or Sleeping Pack with Optional Ampoule
Nighttime is fun because it’s when I can bust out some lovely products that would result in oil-related disasters if I use them during the day. Sometimes I pick a cream and at other times a sleeping pack. What’s the difference? Uhhh…the name?
THE CREAMS & PACKS I USE:
Migabee Beevenom and Honey Cream
The Migabee cream is great even during the day, but it lacks the oil-controlling properties of my favorite for-daytime wear, so it’s a special treat at bedtime.
Laneige Water Sleeping Pack
The Laneige Sleeping Pack is a bit sticky on my face at bedtime, but I wake up with the most incredibly soft, smooth skin.
THE AMPOULES I USE:
Su:m 37 Losec Therapy
Leejiham (LJH) Propolis Ampoule
I like to use rich ampoules at bedtime. One drop turns my face into a glorious, goopy mess, but helps my skin heal faster and look better in the morning.
9. Eye Cream
I can’t believe that I use an eye cream. Urgh, what have I become?! That’s not very punk rock! I should just be able to use one of the ten million stupid creams I own, but of course, I need an eye cream. A good, non-comedogenic eye cream means the difference of five to ten years in terms of my appearance. I have what’s called an “eye smile” in Korea, or what researchers call a Duchenne smile, meaning that my eyes squint when I smile. And I smile a lot because I walk around most of the day cracking (mostly inappropriate) jokes, even if I’m the only one in the room. The only downside to an eye smile is that it means my face is constantly creasing from all that smiling.
My goal is to have people who have been corresponding with me by email look at my face when we meet and assume that I couldn’t possibly be the person they’ve been talking to, because I look like I’m only old enough to be my own assistant. Most of the time, it works. Thank you, eye cream, for making things awkward at work a few times per year.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Purebess Galactomyces Eye Cream 80
This stuff is what changed my mind about eye cream—it’s dirt cheap, poses no problems for my skin, and it gently hydrates my delicate eye skin without making it greasy. It’s my pick for the K-beauty product that could make anyone a believer.
10. Blemish Patches
I consider blemish patches to be essential tools for any blemish-sufferer. Despite our best attempts, sometimes bad things happen. By bad things I, of course, mean blemishes. Blemish patches, depending on their quality level, can protect your skin from your picky fingers, keep blemishes open so that they can gently drain their inner garbage, encourage blemishes to come to a head, and encourage whitehead blemishes to open without causing them trauma. They’re really great wound care and something I think should be given out in high school health classes because they’re so game-changing.
HIGH-END BLEMISH PATCHES I USE:
COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch
The COSRX patches are the right balance between sticky and removable, and they are true hydrocolloid bandage patches. Upon waking up, if I’ve put the COSRX patches on the right blemishes, there will be moisture trapped right in the patch and a flattened blemish head left behind.
BUDGET-FRIENDLY BLEMISH PATCHES I USE:
A’Pieu Nonco Tea Tree Spot Patch
The A’Pieu patches are less dramatic, but they’re about one-tenth the cost, but I think they do more than one-tenth the work, and are therefore worth mentioning! They are rather thin discs that do most of the functions of the COSRX patches —except extract liquid from blemishes.
SPECIAL CARE
Sheet Masks
I am very much not in the one-a-day sheet mask club. I find that most of the ingredients in my other products are superior to those in the sheet masks, so I save them for occasions when I need a hydration jolt.
MY FAVORITES:
Enesti Aloe Multi Care Mask
The Enesti is a basic-as-hell sheet mask that’s just really good at delivering moisture while being super comfortable to wear; I often use these when traveling because the mask fabric is thick and cozy, somehow lulling me to sleep easily.
Mediental Snail Aquaring SOS Mask
The Mediental mask is a two-step mask: the creamy pre treatment essence is applied first, followed by application of an essence-soaked sheet mask. What makes this mask exceptional is the zero-irritation or pain that results from this mask.
Physical Exfoliation
Given my regular and serious chemical exfoliation on a daily basis, I am very careful about not over-exfoliating my skin using physical means like brushes and scrubs. About once per week, I use a peeling gel/treatment that doesn’t really peel my face, but rather clears skin build-up, and takes away dead skin flakes.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Be the Skin Non-Stimulus Face Polisher
I’m a big fan of gommage or peeling gels, and this one takes the cake—it exfoliates fantastically, removes excess oil, smells pretty good. It’s so addictive that I have to stop myself from using it too often, for fear that I’ll overexfoliate and thin-out my skin.
Repairing Treatment
Sometimes, whether it’s due to overdrying from acids and prescriptions or, say, a runny nose, our faces get chapped and dry far beyond the normal bounds. Thankfully, there’s a cream for that.
THE PRODUCT I USE:
Laneige Multiberry Yogurt Pack
This repair pack is meant to be a twenty-five-minute wash-off mask treatment, but I’ve certainly used it as an overnight mask on truly distressed skin. It heals even chapped-to-the-point-of-bleeding skin and it doesn’t cause me to break out. It’s like a lovely, less repulsive version of Vaseline.
RYANRAROAR
I share with readers everything about beauty and my personal take on it. My blog shows you what’s new, what’s exciting, as well as products I have tried, loved, and reviewed from an Asian perspective.
SKIN TYPE
Combination skin type that is acne-prone and speckled with post-acne-marks and scars. My T-zone is oilier and have issues with blackheads and shine.
SKIN CONCERNS
Recurring pimples, clogged pores, shiny T-zone, post-acne marks and scars, and dark circles.
THE K-BEAUTY PHILOSOPHY THAT RESONATES WITH ME
The inspiration for many Korean beauty products stems from ancient literature that has been passed down through the generations. This literature identifies various ingredients and their skincare benefits. I buy into the wisdom and ideals that have worked so beautifully since the Joseon period. This wisdom, coupled with the latest technology and innovations, has proved to be a winning combo.
I also like that each product can perform beautifully on its own, or in harmony with an entire skincare line. This encourages users to be creative and customize a routine using only the products that work best for them. After all, every skin type is unique.
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Cleanse
Choosing the right type of cleanser is important, as it will ensure minimal irritation and disruption to your skin’s natural balance.
MY PREFERRED CLEANSERS:
COSRX Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Cleanser
TonyMoly Aquaporin Moisture Foam Cleanser
2. Tone
I especially love using the COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner because of its daily mild exfoliating action. It aids in cell renewal and promotes clearer skin.
MY FAVORITE TONER:
COSRX AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
3. Treat (Ampoule + Serum/Essence)
Ampoules are especially important as they contain a higher percentage of active ingredients that deliver the needed effect. I really like CNP Laboratory Mugener Ampule, which calms skin redness and spots.
Serums and essence are like your daily maintenance tools for keeping your skin in tip-top condition. When my skin looks dull and lifeless, the Naruko Rose & Botanic HA Aqua Cubic Complex EX always seems to whip it back into shape.
MY PREFERRED AMPOULE:
CNP Laboratory Mugener Ampule
MY PREFERRED SERUM/ESSENCE:
Naruko Rose & Botanic HA Aqua Cubic Complex EX
4. Eye Care
If you keep your eye area moist and healthy, your eyes will always sparkle! This is because wrinkles and fine lines look less harsh when the skin surface is moist. For that reason, I love using the TonyMoly Floria Whitening Eye Serum; it comes with a metal-tip applicator that provides an immediate, cooling, and soothing effect.
MY FAVORITE EYE TREATMENT:
TonyMoly Floria Whitening Eye Serum
5. Moisturize
Since I have a combination/acne-prone skin type, I always go for moisturizers with a light and fast-absorbing texture. The snail cream from TonyMoly is especially refreshing, its gel-creme form absorbs quickly and provides a plethora of benefits such as healing, redness reduction, and hydration. On days my skin is feeling dry or flaky, I will mix in a few drops of facial oil to amp up the moisture.
MY FAVORITE MOISTURIZER:
TonyMoly Intense Care Gold 24K Snail Cream
6. Sun Protection
The single most important product everyone needs is sunscreen. For my combination/acne-prone skin type, I go for something light and refreshing.
MY PREFERRED SUNSCREENS:
Dr.Wu UV Protective Cream with Tinosorb M (Tinted) SPF50 PA+++
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF50+ PA++++ (Japanese)
7. Base Makeup
When I have a breakout, I count on the calming and oil-controlling benefits of TonyMoly Tony Lab AC Control BB Cream to bring in additional acne-fighting help, it also conceals imperfections.
MY BASE MAKEUP PICK:
TonyMoly Tony Lab AC Control BB Cream SPF30 PA++
8. Mist
I carry a small bottle of facial mist with me so that I can freshen up my skin any time of the day. Face mist offers an immediate cooling and hydrating effect, and the fact that it works well over the makeup is awesome.
MY FACIAL MIST PICKS:
Innisfree Green Tea Mineral Mist
CremorLab T.E.N Cremor Mineral Water
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Pre-cleanse (Remove Makeup)
Because I wear lighter makeup, I simply use a cleansing wipe for this step. I especially like the Bifesta Cleansing Express Bright Up Cleansing Sheet because each piece is soaked with sufficient cleansing liquid that effortlessly removes all traces of makeup. No scrubbing at all!
MY PREFERRED MAKEUP REMOVER:
Bifesta Cleansing Express Bright Up Cleansing Sheet (Japanese)
2. Cleanse
As is the case with my morning cleanse, it is important that my evening cleanse will prevent irritation and/or disruption to my skin’s natural balance.
MY PREFERRED CLEANSERS:
COSRX Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Cleanser
TonyMoly Aquaporin Moisture Foam Cleanser
3. Exfoliate
Exfoliate regularly to remove dead skin cells, and to prevent blackheads and pimples from forming. Do not scrub if you have pimples that are inflamed, as it will irritate the skin! Generally, I exfoliate twice a week. However, if I have a chemical peel or microdermabrasion done, I will skip the home exfoliation. I use the Kiehl’s Epidermal Re-Texturizing Micro-Dermabrasion to give my skin a deep exfoliation and prep it for the next-step skincare.
MY PREFERRED EXFOLIATOR:
Kiehl’s Epidermal Re-Texturizing Micro-Dermabrasion (U.S. American)
4. Tone
I especially love using the COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner because of its daily, mild-exfoliating action. It aids in cell renewal and promotes clearer skin.
MY FAVORITE TONER:
COSRX AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
5. Mask
If your skin is normal and you want to do a hydrating mask every day, go for it. But if your skin is oily or acne-prone, stick to doing a mask two or three times a week to prevent overburdening your reactive skin. Always stick to the recommended duration and never overdo it. I simply love doing the Mamonde Lotus Micro Mud Mask because, unlike most mud or clay masks, it does not over-dry skin, and it offers sebum-regulating and pore-purifying benefits at the same time.
MY PREFERRED MASK:
Mamonde Lotus Micro Mud Mask
6. Treat (Ampoule + Serum/Essence)
I use the same ampoule and serum in my evening routine to keep my skin in its ideal state.
MY PREFERRED AMPOULE:
CNP Laboratory Mugener Ampule
MY PREFERRED SERUM/ESSENCE:
Naruko Rose & Botanic HA Aqua Cubic Complex EX
7. Eye Care
I never skip eye care in the evening—keeping my eye area nourished while I sleep is essential if I want to wake up to youthful, sparkling eyes.
MY FAVORITE EYE TREATMENT:
TonyMoly Floria Whitening Eye Serum
8. Moisturize
My evening moisturizer choice is the same as the one I use in my morning routine. It provides the same refreshing hydrating benefits at night as it does during the day.
MY FAVORITE MOISTURIZER:
TonyMoly Intense Care Gold 24K Snail Cream
9. Targeted Treatment
Choose a spot treatment that does not dry skin, or risk making the spot even angrier. I rely on Clinique Acne Solution Spot Healing Gel to clear up the inflammation and prevent scarring.
MY PREFERRED SPOT TREATMENT:
Clinique Acne Solution Spot Healing Gel (U.S. American)
10. Sleeping Mask
A sleeping mask offers an entire night of treatment and moisture that is important even for acne sufferers. The trick is to choose one that is light and refreshing, and not the heavier, nourishing type, which is better for drier or mature skin. Because of its ability to heal and comfort pimples, I enjoy using the Missha Super Aqua Cell Renew Snail Sleeping Mask once a week.
MY FAVORITE SLEEPING MASK:
Missha Super Aqua Cell Renew Snail Sleeping Mask
11. Lip Care
The skin on the lips is significantly thinner than the skin on the rest of your face. Nourishing the lips is important, especially if you wear lots of lip makeup. The makeup removal process can have a detrimental effect on the lips, and the constant wiping and tugging the cotton balls can cause unwanted wrinkles. To combat this, use a nourishing lip-care product every night to condition the lips. I swear by the Rosebud Perfume Co. Menthol and Eucalyptus Balm. It has a thick texture to coat my lips in a protective film, which prevents moisture from evaporating as I sleep the night away in an air-conditioned room.
MY PREFERRED LIP TREATMENT:
Rosebud Perfume Co. Menthol and Eucalyptus Balm (U.S. American)
SNOW WHITE & THE ASIAN PEAR
snowwhiteandthepear.blogspot.com
I’m a melanin-challenged Canadian girl who learned to embrace her natural skin tone through discovering the world of Asian beauty products. I have typical can’t-tan-just-burn skin, and I live in the desert, so it can be a challenge to keep skin healthy and glowing instead of looking like sun-scorched, desiccated leather. At the time I started my blog, Asian product reviews were hard to find, and now here we are: full of Hanbang, science, and snails.
SKIN TYPE
Dehydrated, combination skin—oily with dry cheeks
SKIN CONCERNS
Congested pores, acne-prone, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, aging
CLIMATE
Arid with high winds, high temperatures, and large amounts of dust/dirt in the air. Frequent haboobs (dust/sandstorms) and herds of migrating tumbleweeds.
HOW I FOUND THE WAY OF THE SNAIL
More than anything else, it was moving from Canada to a desert that catalyzed my Korean skincare journey. Predictably, it was a disaster. It was another planet! How did I wind up on the set of Arrakis?! Lightning inside of dust storms. Cacti and mesquite. Summer for more than ten months out of the year. The sun sears the earth, and anyone on it, with a palpable force of heat akin to standing next to a wood stove on a cold night, but with an eye-scalding brightness that makes your retinas beg for mercy even in the cold depths of January. In five years, my face looked twenty years older, but my skin hated sunscreen with the burning passion of a thousand pores. That’s when I discovered BB creams, and then Korean skincare (and snails), which solved my skin issues. At the time, my skin was oily, yet dry all at once, pebbled by clogged pores and littered with dry flakes. Customization is a wonderful, wonderful thing.
The Korean skincare approach has allowed me the flexibility to address my skin’s diverse needs and petulant moods. I can have it all: anti-acne alongside anti-aging, hydration without heaviness, and a routine as simple, or complex, as I need at that moment.
MY SKINCARE ROUTINE
My routine is an ever-shifting, ever-rotating, expanding-and-contracting lineup of Western and Asian skincare, with an overwhelmingly Korean-product population. The beauty of the multi-step and customized approach is about finding the right product for the task, no matter what the product’s origins are, but I can’t deny that Korea has it all down to an art.
I have some core products that are staples in my routine, but my routine is primarily based around step/function, rather than specific products. I add in or swap various products depending on how my skin feels, and many of the products featured in the photos are simply what I am using now, and will be replaced with others as I use them up.
My routine, no matter how flexible and transient it may be, can be boiled down to these basic steps, in this order:
1. Cleansers
2. Actives
3. Hydrators
4. Occlusives
5. Treatments/Sun Protection
I might use only a single product from each step, or many, depending on my skin’s condition at the moment. Listening to your skin is the best advice I can give to someone contemplating how to build their routine; identify your skin’s needs and then select products that fit those needs.
1. Cleansers
As someone with clog-prone skin in a dusty environment, I need to thoroughly cleanse and rinse my skin to keep breakouts at bay. I double-cleanse with an oil-type makeup-removing cleanser, followed by a low-pH foaming cleanser to remove residue.
MAKEUP REMOVING CLEANSER:
(PM) Leejiham Dr’s Care Cleansing Oil
Used as a first cleanser and also as a massage oil to clear my pores.
CLEANSING WATER:
(AM) Bioderma Crealine H2O Solution Micellaire (French)
Although cleansing waters haven’t proved effective as a makeup removing-cleanser for me, I love them for a gentle AM cleanse when my skin doesn’t need a full-foaming cleanser.
FACIAL CLEANSER:
(AM/PM) Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
Used daily as a primary cleanser, or as a second cleanser after removing makeup and sunscreen. Low-pH, gentle, and suffused with rose oil and petals.
2. Actives
Actives are where skincare magic happens in earnest. I use a pH-adjusting toner to prep my skin, and then a lineup of heavy-hitters which can include vitamin C serums, BHA exfoliants, AHA exfoliants, and acne treatments. I use vitamin C for anti-aging and fading pigmentation, BHA for clearing my pores, and AHA for fading pigmentation, improving skin texture, and keeping those pesky dry patches away.
PH-ADJUSTING TONER:
(AM/PM) Mizon AHA/BHA Daily Clean Toner
A staple for me and the most gentle pH-adjusting toner I have used. It lets me skip the wait-time between cleansing and actives, preventing my skin from drying out between those steps.
VITAMIN C SERUM:
(AM) OST C20 Original Pure Vitamin C20 Serum
BHA EXFOLIANT:
(AM/PM) COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
This treatment is so gentle that I can use it daily if I feel like my skin needs it.
AHA EXFOLIANT:
(PM) Mizon 8% AHA Peeling Serum
Used one to three times a week, as needed.
ACNE TREATMENT:
(AM/PM) COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol
Used as an acne treatment, this product contains a small amount of BHA and AHA, and a large amount of propolis.
3. Hydrators
As a desert dweller, replenishing the water in my skin is a top priority. Ensuring I have hydrated my skin before adding products containing oil keeps my skin balanced throughout the day. I use a bevy of mists, hydrating toners, essences, serums, ampoules, and sheet masks (even at times in the AM) to restore my skin’s balance.
HYDRATING TONER:
(AM/PM) Mizon Mela Defense White Boosting Toner
Used only if I want to wipe off leftover residue from my actives step, including exfoliated dead skin. If I can feel balled-up, dead skin under my fingers, I like to wipe that off before I apply other products.
MIST:
(AM/PM) Mizon Snail Repair Hydro Mist
Used if my skin feels a bit dry after actives, to cool my face, or throughout the day to boost hydration without disrupting my sunscreen or makeup. I even mist the puff from my makeup cushions before picking up product for extra hydration during application.
ESSENCE/SERUM:
(AM/PM) Leejiham Tea Tree 90 Essence
Uses the tea tree extract, which is much gentler than the oil; this lovely anti-acne serum is a staple of my lineup that I use it twice a day.
(AM/PM) Sooryehan Hyo Biyeon Concentrated Brightening Essence
Currently the “product undergoing testing” in my lineup. Begone, hyperpigmentation!
SHEET MASK:
(AM/PM) Varies, used daily or sometimes twice a day. I am particularly fond of hanbang (traditional Korean herbal medicine) products and sheet masks are no exception; the Mediental and Evercos masks are two of my favorites! Daily sheet masks are not for everyone, but I need all the sustained moisture I can get.
4. Occlusives
As someone with dehydrated skin, as opposed to dry skin, I apply occlusive products very sparingly. Occlusives act as a barrier, sealing hydration into the skin, and are often rich, oily, or heavy in silicones. I also use them only in the areas I need, because overloading my skin with rich products leads to clogged pores and breakouts.
LIGHT CREAM:
(AM/PM) Mizon Multi Function Formula Snail Recovery Gel Cream
Used if it’s a hot day, during the summer, or any time I feel I need something ultra light on my skin instead of a traditional cream. This product was my first ever Korean skincare purchase, and four years and many tubes later, it is still a staple.
MEDIUM CREAM:
(AM/PM) Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Used in all seasons when I want something robust enough to keep my skin supple and moisturized for hours. It’s also my current favorite product.
HEAVY CREAM:
(AM/PM) Buyonghwa Princess Jeonghyo Wild Cream
Used only in winter, or when my skin is feeling very dry.
FACIAL OIL:
(PM) Hankook Cosmetics The Prestige Gold Oil Essence
Used only when I feel I need to boost my cream with the added richness of an oil.
4. Sun Protection (AM)
I work indoors in front of two large windows. Therefore, sunscreen is a must whether I am inside or outside, but my skin will not tolerate chemical UV filters. I rely on physical sunscreens, and I am still searching for that One True Love. I wear a lower-rated sunscreen indoors, and boost up the protection if I go outside. Working from home has its perks; if I need to give my skin a break from sunscreen, I can close the blinds and work from the sunless comfort of my bat cave.
INDOOR SUNSCREEN:
IOPE UV Shield Sun Mild Clinic SPF25 PA++
Used on days I do not need a strong protection from outdoor exposure.
OUTDOOR SUNSCREEN:
Sunkiller Baby Milk SPF45 PA+++
Used on days I go outside during the day; cannot be worn under makeup and has a strong white cast.
5. Treatments (PM)
SPOT TREATMENT:
Mizon Acence Blemish Out Pink Spot
Used on developing blemishes that I want to hasten along in deciding whether they are going to disappear or come to a head.
3M Nexcare Blemish Clear Cover Hydrocolloid Bandages
A staple in my lineup. When applied to an open blemish, they safely, gently, and hygienically drain it, leaving it flattened and partially healed in a fraction of the normal time.
LIP TREATMENT:
Aritaum Ginger Sugar Overnight Lip Mask
Used when my lips feel dry. I developed the habit of licking my lips before sneezing because they would split when I did, which was quite painful! Now my lips are supple and soft when I wake up.
CLAY MASK:
Innisfree Jeju Volcanic Pore Clay Mask
Used one to two times a month. Clay masks can be quite drying, so I use this primarily to kickstart loosening clogged pores before an oil massage.
FIFTY SHADES OF SNAIL
Blogger and Fashionista.com K-beauty correspondent, Jude Chao writes a beauty blog dedicated to helping readers of all ages, skin types, and budgets achieve beautiful skin through Asian skincare rituals and routines. With extensive product reviews, industry features, ingredient analyses, and skincare tips, tricks, and tutorials, Fifty Shades of Snail aims to help both skincare newbies and hardcore addicts discover the best products for their needs.
SKIN TYPE
Normal/balanced, nonreactive
SKIN CONCERNS
Brightening, firming, minimizing effects of photoaging. The vast majority of my routine aims to repair past sun damage and prevent future sun damage.
WHY I LOVE K-BEAUTY
My love for K-beauty is more than skin deep. I never achieved truly great results with Western products, nor was I ever particularly attracted to them. The Korean aesthetic and the beauty standards that Korean brands target are much more closely aligned with my personal tastes, and I find the ritualistic nature of the Korean skincare regimen meditative and soothing. In fact, although Korean skincare products have improved my skin by leaps and bounds in the two years since I started on this journey, the Korean skincare routine has improved my mental health even more.
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Foaming Cleanser:
Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Cleansing Foam (Japanese)
I like to gently but thoroughly cleanse my skin in the morning and sweep away any dead skin loosened during the night to prepare it for my morning treatment steps and to create the best canvas for makeup.
2. Toner:
COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol, mixed with one drop of LeeJiham (LJH) Vita Propolis Ampoule
The propolis extract contained in both these products, as well as the botanical extracts in the LJH ampoule, deliver a high dose of healing and protective antioxidants to prepare for the day’s UV and pollution exposure.
3. Essence:
COSRX Galactomyces 95 White Power Essence
Combines galactomyces ferment extract with niacinamide and humectants to brighten, firm, and hydrate skin.
4. Ampoules:
Shara Shara Honey Bomb All In One Ampoule
Blends the moisturizing, reparative, and protective properties of honey and propolis with more brightening niacinamide and hydrating humectants to further soften and plump skin.
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Borabit Ampoule
Repairs past sun damage and helps protect against future free-radical damage with a potent mix of antioxidants, proven anti-aging actives, and plant and ferment extracts.
5. Serum:
Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum
Further protects skin with a combination of green tea and other botanical antioxidants, and delivers one last dose of humectant hydration to help make sure skin stays moist all day long.
6. Emulsion:
Innisfree Green Tea Balancing Lotion
Lightly seals in the morning’s treatment steps with a fast-absorbing, non-oily texture that plays well with sunscreen and makeup.
7. Sunscreen:
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++ (Japanese)
Protects skin against UV damage with high UVB and UVA protection and a light, natural, matte finish.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Oil Cleanser:
Innisfree Green Tea Pure Cleansing Oil
Quickly breaks up and lifts off the day’s makeup, sunscreen, oil, dirt, and sweat.
2. Foaming Cleanser:
Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Cleansing Foam (Japanese)
3. Vitamin C Serum:
C21.5 Pure Vitamin C Serum, mixed with a drop of LeeJiham (LJH) Vita Propolis Ampoule
Gives skin a potent dose of propolis, niacinamide, antioxidants, and L-ascorbic acid to lighten old sunspots, repair UV damage, and boost barrier function and collagen production.
4. BHA:
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
Gently but thoroughly clears sebum and dead skin cells out from pores, helping them stay clean and unclogged.
5. AHA:
COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid
Gently and gradually exfoliates dead cells from the surface of skin, smoothing, and brightening its appearance and minimizing fine lines and wrinkles.
6. Toner:
COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol
7. Essence:
COSRX Galactomyces 95 White Power Essence
8. Ampoule:
Shara Shara Honey Bomb All In One Ampoule
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Borabit Ampoule
9. Serum:
Innisfree Green Tea Seed Serum
10. Mask:
Any one of a variety of sheet masks and hydrogel masks to deliver intensive hydration, as well as botanical extracts and/or proven actives for the rapid treatment of skin issues.
11. Cream:
I’m From Honey Cream
When skin feels dry.
COSRX Honey Ceramide Full Moisture Cream
When skin feels normal.
Both creams offer deep nourishment and emollient moisture to help skin stay moist and repair itself through the night.
12. Sleeping Pack:
Innisfree White Tone Up Sleeping Pack
A light-textured occlusive gel, infused with antioxidant botanical extracts, vitamin C, and niacinamide to brighten the complexion and seal in moisture and treatment actives overnight.
HELLO PRETTY BIRD!
Hello Pretty Bird! is a beauty and lifestyle blog with a budget-conscious focus. The site features a mixture of product reviews, tutorials, and posts about other things that make life easier or more fun (like food, affordable accessories, and cheap things to do in New York City). On the beauty side of things, you’ll see lots of drugstore, niche, and Asian cosmetics reviews on the site—the goal is to help folks discover new brands to love, figure out which mainstream budget products actually work, and which mid-priced (and up) products are worth the splurge.
SKIN TYPE:
Combination skin. More dry/dehydrated in the winter, oily in the T-zone in the summer.
SKIN CONCERNS:
Acne prevention, dehydration, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
THOUGHTS ON THE KOREAN SKINCARE PHILOSOPHY
I struggled with a typical American-style skincare routine for a long time: wash your face once, slap on some astringent toner to dry out your acne (which totally doesn’t work, by the way), apply a single moisturizing cream that might be too light for some situations and too rich for others, and wonder why your skin feels like crap.
I really appreciate the layered, moisture-happy approach to skincare that Korean-style routines offer because it’s easy to customize and add or remove products as demanded by the needs of your skin. Even better, there are tons of effective Korean products that are also very affordable. I’m a total cheapskate, so I appreciate that level of accessibility.
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Foaming Cleanser
The first step of my skincare day is to wash off my night creams, sweat and other face gunk with a gentle foaming cleanser.
MY PERSONAL FAVORITE:
CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser (U.S. American)
It cleanses well without leaving skin feeling stripped, plus it’s bargain-priced. I’d rather scrimp a little on cleansers so I can spend more on leave-on treatments!
2. First Treatment Essence
Once my face is nice and clean, I immediately apply a bit of treatment essence with my hands.
MY PREFERRED FIRST TREATMENT ESSENCE:
Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Intensive
This is a lightweight, yeasty essence with slightly hydrating properties. It’s a staple in my routine mainly because it softens my skin and reduces redness. I use a retinol serum as part of my nighttime routine, and this stuff calms my skin down afterwards.
3. Toner
Next I’ll apply a light layer of toner. Just to clarify, I mean hydrating toner, not astringent toner. The toner category can be a bit confusing because they tend to go by many names, and they vary a lot in terms of viscosity.
MY PERSONAL FAVORITE:
Rohto Hada Labo Gokujyn Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (Japanese)
This is a thick, slippery toner that’s loaded up with hyaluronic acid. A little bit goes a long way with this stuff, but it’s a huge help in keeping my skin looking supple and moisturized.
4. Serum/Ampoule
After applying toner, I immediately follow up with a few drops of an active-rich, hydrating serum or ampoule for extra glow.
MY FAVORITES:
Laneige Water Bank Moisture Serum
Goodal Waterest Lasting Water Oil
LeeJiHam (LJH) Vita Propolis Ampoule
All of them give skin a supple-looking radiance without making your face feel too heavy or look too oily.
5. Emulsion/Milk
Next, I follow up with a little bit of emulsion for one last moisturizing kick and to lock all the previous layers in.
MY FAVORITE:
Rohto Hada Labo Gokujyun Moisture Milk (Japanese)
This is a total staple for me in this department because it’s light and non-greasy enough to not make my makeup slide around. Nobody wants slidy makeup!
6. Sunscreen
You know what’s really good for your skin? Avoiding sun damage! I’m also really, really pale and prone to sunburn, so a good sunscreen is a must. These days, I mostly prefer mineral sunscreens over chemical ones because they seem to irritate my skin less, and them being non-greasy is essential. Remember, slidy makeup = bad.
MY PICKS:
Paula’s Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 (U.S. American)
My everyday “I’m going to be outside walking to the subway for 10 minutes” type SPF product. It feels super-light, as the name might suggest.
Innisfree Eco Safety Perfect Waterproof Sunblock SPF50+ PA+++
For days when I’ll be spending a lot of time in the sun, I try to choose something a bit stronger—this one is great because it doesn’t wear off easily.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Point Makeup Remover
True story: I wear a lot of waterproof eye makeup and bright lipstick. While many facial cleansers are capable of getting off stubborn makeup on their own, they’re not really as efficient (or non-irritating) as using a bit of makeup remover on a soft cotton pad. I’m a big fan of dual-phase removers (the kind with two layers that you have to shake up).
MY PICKS:
Makeon Nothing Is Impossible Remover Liquid
My favorite makeup remover because of how quickly it dissolves waterproof makeup.
Neutrogena Oil Free Eye Makeup Remover (U.S. American)
A great, budget-friendly alternative that can be found in most drugstores.
2. Oil Cleanser
Discovering oil cleansers was one of the biggest game-changers for me in terms of skincare. Have you ever washed your face, rubbed it on a towel, only to leave behind makeup streaks? Ewww. That was me, every day. Now I massage a bit of oil cleanser onto my dry face and it dissolves all of my foundation/sunscreen residue like magic.
MY FAVORITE:
Innisfree Apple Juicy Cleansing Oil
It smells delicious and removes makeup thoroughly without leaving behind greasy residue.
3. Foaming Cleanser
At this point, my face is mostly clean, but I like to do one final swoop with foaming cleanser to get off any last bits of oil and makeup residue. Enter CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser again.
MY PERSONAL FAVORITE:
CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser (U.S. American)
4. Exfoliation
Exfoliation has also been a game-changer for me in terms of reducing acne and improving the texture of my skin, particularly since I started using chemical exfoliants. It’s also the most complicated stage of my skincare routine because I rotate several products throughout the week to avoid overdoing it. A typical week might look something like this:
MONDAY/WEDNESDAY/FRIDAY:
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
This is a salicylic acid treatment that has been really helpful for me in terms of reducing acne.
TUESDAY/THURSDAY/SATURDAY:
Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment
OST C20 Vitamin C Serum
I usually apply the vitamin C serum first, wait twenty minutes, then apply the retinol. The retinol seems to have a skin-smoothing effect with consistent usage (bye bye, fine lines!) and the vitamin C has been really useful for reducing post-acne marks and generally brightening my skin.
SUNDAY:
Paula’s Choice Resist Weekly Resurfacing Treatment w/ 10% AHA (U.S. American)
This is probably my favorite of all the chemical treatments I use, but it’s too strong to use more than once or twice per week. It’s an anti-aging treatment which makes my skin look super-smooth and glowy the next day.
OCCASIONALLY:
SkinFood Black Sugar Wash-Off Mask
Kuan Yuan Lian Mung Bean Powder
Once in a while, I will skip my usual slew of chemicals and opt for a scrub instead. There isn’t really any strong advantage to doing this from what I can tell, but it feels nice! The trick is to choose a scrub that’s really gentle.
4. Toner
If I’m using a chemical exfoliant, I wait about fifteen to twenty minutes for acids to neutralize before doing this step.
MY PERSONAL FAVORITE:
Rohto Hada Labo Gokujyn Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (Japanese)
5. Serum/Ampoule
I’m more likely to apply these liberally at night because I don’t have to worry about slidy makeup. I also find myself less concerned about a sticky ampoule if I just use it at night.
I LIKE:
Pure Heals Propolis Ampoule
Works well for hydration and giving skin that special glow.
5. Emulsion/Milk
Just like during the day, I apply a emulsion after my ampoule. I sometimes skip this step during warmer weather, because my face gets a lot oilier in the summer and that extra layer can be a bit much to handle.
MY FAVORITE:
Rohto Hada Labo Gokujyun Moisture Milk (Japanese)
8. Eye Cream
I don’t like super rich creams in my eye area, because some give me milia seeds. Gel-type creams are the answer!
MY PICKS:
Laneige’s Water Bank Eye Gel
Dr. Jart+ V7 Eye Serum
9. Cream
At long last, the crown atop my skincare head: cream! I use some pretty strong exfoliants at night, so I need something a bit thicker and more occlusive than emulsion to keep my skin from freaking out.
My skin gets really dry and flaky in the winter due to our savage indoor heating system, so I tend to reach for richer creams around that time of year. In the summer, I use creams that are a bit more gel-like in consistency so my skin doesn’t feel totally smothered.
MY WINTER PICKS:
Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream
Dr.G Bio-RTxTM Mentor Cream #5
MY SUMMER PICKS:
Pure Heals Propolis Cream
Laneige Bright Renew Original Cream
OCCASIONAL TREATMENTS
Hydrating Sheet Masks
Once in a while, I feel like I need an extra boost of moisture in my routine, so I’ll reach for a hydrating mask in lieu of my usual serum. Bonus: most sheet masks provide a temporary brightening effect as well as making tired skin feel less hot and puffy!
I LIKE:
My Beauty Diary Black Pearl Mask (Taiwanese)
Leaders Insolution Coconut Gel Recovery Masks
L’Herboflore Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Energy Biocellulose Mask (Taiwanese)
Clay Mask
My skin is pretty well-behaved these days, but once in a while my T-zone turns into a nasty, oily mess. What to do? Apply a little mud mask!
MY GO-TO CLAY MASK:
Queen Helene Mint Julep Mask (U.S. American)
This is my staple for drying up excess oil and temporarily shrinking enlarged pores.
Facial Oil
My skin gets very dehydrated and angry in the winter, and sometimes simple cream isn’t enough. In those situations, I’ll add a couple of drops of facial oil to my cream—that way, I get the benefits of the oil without making my face feel too greasy.
MY FAVORITE:
Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil
Sleeping Pack
On days when my skin is feeling really dehydrated, or I want a little extra boost of glow, I’ll apply a sleeping pack after my nighttime cream. This helps lock in moisture even more.
MY ALL-TIME FAVORITE:
TonyMoly Intense Care Dual Effect Sleeping Pack
It’s very thick, which might not be everybody’s cup of tea, but really does lock in the moisture. My skin always looks super-radiant after I use it.
Massage
Facial massage improves circulation and just feels good. It’s sort of difficult to explain this step in words, but if you look up “gua sha” on the internet you’ll find lots of information and tutorials. I do this on clean skin, maybe once every couple of weeks.
Mists
Facial mists can be super-refreshing, especially on hot, dry days. They’re also useful if you wait a little bit too long between the “layers” of your skincare routine and want to top them off with moisture between steps.
I LIKE:
Missha’s Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Mist
The Skin House Aloe Water Mist
Acne Patches
I don’t get too many severe breakouts these days, but once in a while, a monster zit will appear for no apparent reason. Instead of weeping and cursing the heavens, I apply a hydrocolloid acne patch. Hydrocolloid stickers react with the pus (ew) in your zit to draw it out, which helps them flatten and heal faster. Added bonus: having a physical barrier on your face keeps you from picking!
MY PREFERRED ACNE PATCH:
Nexcare Acne Absorbing Covers (U.S. American)
MEMORABLE DAYS
Elisa reviews a wide range of Korean skincare and makeup products from popular affordable brands such as Etude House, Innisfree, and Missha. She combines her passion for photography by taking gorgeous pictures of products and clear, color-accurate swatches for everything she reviews. Korean brand move very quickly when releasing new products, and if you want to stay up-to-date with new collections and product releases, her blog is a great resource!
SKIN TYPE
Combination/dry skin
SKIN CONCERNS
Dry and sometimes flaky cheek and mouth area, oily T-zone, dark spots, uneven skin tone, large pores
CLIMATE
Spring, cold, and windy in Amsterdam
HOW I GOT INTO K-BEAUTY
I started using Korean beauty products 5 years ago. The first product I tried was the Missha M Perfect Cover BB Cream, which is still very popular, even after so many years. I couldn’t seem to find a good foundation shade for my Asian skin tone, which is why I decided to try Korean BB creams. Now I’m addicted to them and Korean products in general!
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Cleanse
Konjac Jelly Massage Cleansing Puff (Japanese)
In the morning, I clean my skin with the Konjac Jelly Massage Cleansing Puff and I splash my face five times with lukewarm water. Konjac sponges are made from plant fiber of konjac, grown in Japan. They are very gentle on the face and include ingredients that nourish and smooth the skin naturally. I can easily remove my face oil with it, leaving a soft and clean face afterwards.
2. Toner
Hada Labo Super Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Face Lotion (Japanese)
This is one of my favorite products that I’ve been using for years. It contains a high percentage of hyaluronic acid which will moisturize your skin. I only need four drops for my entire face, I just dab it on and it instantly hydrates my skin and it helps to preserve its optimum moisture balance.
3. Ampoule
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Borabit Ampoule
I love to use this ampoule day and night. It energizes, brightens, and improves the elasticity of my skin. Besides that, it also has anti-aging benefits which is a plus for people in the mid-twenties like me.
4. Essence
Innisfree Green Tea Moisture Essence
Since I need more moisture for my dry skin, I’m using an additional essence. The texture of this essence is thicker than the previous two products, so that’s why i’m using it afterwards.
5. Eye Serum
Dr. Jart+ V7 Eye serum
To brighten my eye area I’m using the V7 eye serum from Dr. Jart+. I love this serum since it sinks into my skin within seconds without leaving a heavy and sticky finish.
6. Sunscreen
Nuganic Customize Sun Block Fresh SPF50 PA+++
I love using Asian sunscreens since they have a high SPF, which I need to prevent getting more freckles on my face. It also leaves a moist finish that is not heavy or sticky, which is great for people with dry skin. It also contains anti-aging ingredients.
7. Cream
Paula’s Choice Shine Stopper Matte Finish (U.S. American)
Sometimes I just prefer to have a matte finish, so I dab the shine-stopper from Paula’s Choice on my T-zone and no shine will be visible afterwards. This is definitely one of my holy grails! I love the silky soft matte finish that it gives me and I will usually stay matte for at least five hours after application.
8. Lip Treatment
Vaseline Lip Therapy Original (U.S. American)
I can’t live without this vaseline! It always feels that there is something missing if I don’t apply Vaseline afterwards. It keeps my lips moist and it’s scentless which I love.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Makeup Removing Cleanser
Shu Uemura Porefinist Cleansing Oil (Japanese)
Using circular motions with my fingers, I massage and clean the makeup off of my face. It feels lightweight and fresh and since it contains cinnamon bark extract, it will target excess oil and controls my sebum.
2. Facial Cleanser
Hado Labo Gokujyun Face wash (Japanese)
I have been using this face wash for three years and I am still loving it. I am using this together with the Clarisonic MIA 2 to foam it up and to remove my makeup. It keeps my skin fresh and moist, without leaving a tight feeling afterwards. It does a very good job of removing heavy makeup, which is why I have been using this for years.
3. Eye Makeup Remover
L’Oréal Paris Dermo-Expertise Absolute Make-Up Remover Eye and Lip (French)
With a Q-tip I remove the remaining waterproof makeup off my eyes, mainly in the corners and tight-line area. The oil in this makeup remover erases everything thats waterproof in a second.
4. Cleansing Water
Innisfree Calming Cleansing Water
I’m always scared to have remaining makeup on my face, so that’s why I put a bit of cleansing water on a cotton pad and go over my face and neck just once to make sure I catch any leftover makeup. This cleansing water is suitable for sensitive skin and is very gentle. It contains dandelion extracts and is full of glucocide and vitamins to smooth the skin. Because of this, it has a good pH level and my skin feels calm, moist, and refreshed afterwards.
5. Serum
Pure Vitamin C20 Serum
To lighten up my freckles and dark spots I use three drops of the vitamin C serum from OST. I feel a tingling sensation after and I normally will wait for twenty minutes to let it sink in, before I move on with the next step.
6. Toner
Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence
Ever since I’ve been using this essence toner, my skin texture has improved and it gives my skin that hydration boost that I love. It made my skin soft, and reduced the dry flakes and redness on my face.
7. Ampoule
Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Borabit Ampoule
I love to use the ampoule with the essence from Missha. Both products have improved the elasticity of my skin.
8. Essence
Innisfree Green Tea Moisture Essence
9. Eye Cream
Dr. Jart+ V7 Serum
10. Cream
Innisfree Green Tea Seed Cream
The Green Tea Seed Cream is enriched with green tea seeds which makes the skin moist. What I really love about this cream is that it absorbs quickly while leaving my skin soft and supple. I absolutely love the cooling effect and the scent of this cream too; it’s so fresh!
11. Lip Treatment
Vaseline Lip Therapy Original
SPECIAL TREATMENTS
Wash-off Masks
Innisfree Volcanic Pore Clay Mask
Since I have a combination skin, it’s important to treat certain parts differently. I use the Innisfree Volcanic Pore Clay Mask on my T-zone and chin area, which are the areas where my pores are more visible and where I tend to get more oily. It controls my oil really well.
Skinfood Rice Mask Wash Off
While leaving the volcanic pore clay mask on my T-zone, I use a rice mask wash off from Skinfood to moisture the rest of my face. I use this once a week.
Exfoliator
Cure Natural Aqua Gel (Japanese)
When I notice that I have dry flakes, I use this mild scrub to remove them. It’s a great product for removing dead skin cells while leaving your skin moist.
Sheet Mask
My Beauty Diary Apple Polyphenol (Taiwanese)
Once a week, I use My Beauty Diary’s Apple Polyphenol Sheet Mask to moisturize and brighten my face.
Spot Treatment
Ciracle Pimple Solution Pink Powder
When I notice that a pimple is coming up, I use the pink powder from Ciracle. This really is my holy grail! It hastens the healing process and it prevents acne scars.
THE WANDERLUST PROJECT
The Wanderlust Project is a travel, lifestyle, and Korean beauty blog. I live in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, where the weather is hot and humid every single day. I ride a motorbike as my main form of transportation, so I’m worried about sun damage. I also have to deal with heavy pollution, dirt, and grime.
SKIN TYPE
I have combination skin with an oily T-zone. My skin is pretty normal everywhere else, although I did suffer from acne when I first moved to Vietnam.
SKIN CONCERNS
My major skin concerns are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, general evenness, and brightening of my skin tone.
HOW I DISCOVERED KOREAN COSMETICS
Before I moved to Vietnam, I lived in South Korea for two years. During that time, I fell in love with Korean cosmetics. I had pretty awful acne when I first moved to South Korea, but adopting a Korean skincare routine and using high quality, effective skincare products pretty much cleared up my acne. Now that I’ve introduced chemical exfoliants into my routine, I’ve achieved almost perfect skin!
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Cleanser
Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
This varies daily, but this is my all-time favorite cleanser.
2. Acid Toner
Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion (French)
When I use the P50 Lotion, I wait twenty to thirty minutes before my next skincare step. If I’m in a rush, I’ll either just use my vitamin C serum, or I’ll skip this step completely.
3. Vitamin C
C21.5 Vitamin C Serum
4. Hydrating Toner
The Missha First Treatment Essence
This is my holy grail!
5. Moisturizer
Su:m37 Waterfull Gel Lotion
I’m currently rotating a few, but this one of my favorites. It’s lightweight, and perfect for the hot, humid weather in Vietnam.
6. Sunscreen
Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ (Japanese)
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Makeup Removing Cleanser
Su:m37 Melting Cleansing Balm
This is my all time favorite!
2. Cleanser
Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
Again, I love the Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick. I’m also testing out a bunch of different options like the Skinmiso Rice Foam Cleanser, the Hada Labo Anti-Aging Collagen cleanser, and the Klairs Rich Moist Foaming Cleanser.
3. Acid Toner/BHA/AHA Treatment
Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion (French)
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
Mizon AHA 8% Peeling Serum
I rotate through these treatments depending on the day. I use each of these products to help with my large pores, my PIH, and general skin evenness and brightening. I apply one of these, and then wait twenty to thirty minutes before my next step.
4. Hydrating Toner
The Missha First Treatment Essence
I love the Missha First Treatment Essence, but I’ve also tried the Hera Cell Bio Essence, and the Hada Labo Lotion.
5. Serum
Hera Hyaluronic Ampoule
Right now, I’m focusing on hydrating and plumping my skin.
6. Moisturizer
HERA Aquabolic Emulsion
Su:m37 Time Energy Emulsion
Hada Labo Anti-Aging Milk (Japanese)
At night, I like to opt for something a bit more hydrating, so I reach for one of these three products.
7. Facial Oil
Su:m37 Fermented Argan Oil
I am beyond obsessed with this oil. Sadly, it’s been discontinued, and I may have bought two of the last bottles!
THE BEAUTY WOLF
I’m Coco Park, a beauty journalist, blogger, professional makeup artist, certified esthetician, and one of the authors of the book you’re reading right now! My blog brings you only the best products I’ve discovered on my journey, roaming the plains of makeup and forging the rivers of skincare. I also illustrate my blog with one-of-a-kind artwork and collages.
SKIN TYPE
Normal to dry
SKIN CONCERNS
Sensitivity, reactivity, and acne-prone. I focus on relieving dryness, preventing further photoaging, refining, and restoring firmness
WHY I LOVE K-BEAUTY
The proof is in the pudding. I’ve totally transformed my skin. Before I discovered Korean products, my skin was plagued with redness, breakouts, and dryness. Now my skin is clear, healthy, and glowing. I couldn’t be happier and I cannot shut up about it. I’ll tell anyone who will listen about the virtues of K-beauty. So listen up: it’s amazing and you need it in your life!
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Facial Cleanser
Innisfree The Minimum Facial Cleanser
Dr. Oracle The Snow Queen Enzyme Powder Wash
I start my morning routine with a low-pH facial cleanser, and like to rotate between these two.
2. First Treatment Essence
Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence
I will always reach for a first treatment essence. I once left it out of my routine for a month when I ran out, and never again. The difference is noticeable when I use it.
3. Hydrating Toner
Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
This water-free toner is everything. It smells like a garden in summertime and is full of hydrating, organic, skin-nutritious ingredients. Knowing I’m about to use this toner gets me happy to do my skincare routine in the morning.
4. Sheet Mask
Ideally, time permitting, I like to start my day with a sheet mask. I have several that I cycle through. My absolute favorites are:
Whamisa Organic Fruits & Tomato Fermented Hydrogel Facial Mask
This is a new holy grail and one of the best soothing, hydrating masks I’ve ever tried.
Whamisa Organic Sea Kelp Facial Sheet Mask
This is my special occasion mask, it’s the champagne and caviar I treat my skin to. What makes this sheet mask different (aside from absolutely bursting with natural skin loving ingredients) is that the sheet is made from a piece of sea kelp, making you into the fanciest human kimbap of all time.
Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Mask
This is a little moisture bomb of a mask with a very soft, thick, cottony sheet. It also boasts a few of my favourite ingredients like natto gum and licorice root extract. At around $2 USD a mask, it’s a great way to impart some moisture into the start of your day.
5. Serum
I alternate between these two, one week for one and then the next week for the other.
Su:m37° Secret Repair Concentrate
Always a favorite that I miss whenever I run out. I’ve taken to always having backups on hand.
COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
Anyone that knows me knows I’m a huge fan of snails!
6. Emulsion
Hanyul Rice Essential Skin Emulsion
I love the feel of this on my skin and I love the look of it on my dresser. This has an insanely low number of acne triggers and is hydrating, yet light enough to not pill up under makeup or skincare.
7. Cream
Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream
This is another water-free treasure from Whamisa. I can’t live without this stuff. It’s perfect as is in the warmer months, but with my dry skin and the harsh winter climate I live in, I usually mix a few drops of maracuja or baobab oil in with this. If I could recommend just one cream to people starting out in K-beauty it would be this one. It’s so wonderful!
8. Sunscreen
As someone who had skin cancer removed from the tops of my ears at a fairly young age, I am all about the sun protection now. Depending on the season, I use one of two sunscreens from Innisfree:
Innisfree Eco Safety Perfect Sunblock SPF50+ PA+++
This is my preferred sunscreen for cold winter weather.
Innisfree Eco Safety Aqua Perfect Sun Gel SPF50+ PA+++
This is a lighter weight sunscreen for warm and humid days.
9. Mist
Whamisa, the Organic Flowers Olive Leaf Mist
Whamisa Organic Flowers Damask Rose Petal Mist
I always carry around a mist for freshening up or for a little extra hydration. like to keep one in my bag and one in the fridge for extra refreshing home use.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Makeup Removing Cleanser
Su:m37 Skin Saver Melting Cleansing Balm
First I start with an oil-based cleanser. Right now I’m head-over-heels in love with this cleansing balm. It’s like heaven in a beautiful jar and it gently removes even the toughest makeup (including eye lash glue, which is the devil incarnate).
2. Facial Cleanser
Innisfree The Minimum Facial Cleanser for Sensitive Skin
I follow that up with this low-pH bubble cleanser.
3. First Treatment Essence
Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence
Just like my AM routine, this kickstarts my skin treatments.
4. pH Adjusting Toner
Mizon AHA & BHA Daily Clean Toner
Since I’m about to follow up with an acid, I like to get my skin down to the correct pH for it to work optimally.
5. Serum
Mizon AHA 8% Peeling Serum
OST Original Pure Vitamin C20 Serum
I use these to keep my skin properly exfoliated and bright.
6. Essence
Hanyul White Chrysanthemum Powder Serum
I’ve been in love with this serum since the first time I used it. It’s worked like nothing else ever has to even out my skin tone.
7. Emulsion
Isoi Go Above And Beyond Lotion
This is a wonderfully light, yet hydrating emulsion with low acne and irritation triggers. I also love the smell of this lotion; it reminds me of a spring garden, which is very lovely to smell as you’re settling into bed.
8. Cream
Depending on the season, I switch between two options.
Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream
In the harsh winter I love using this cream—it goes on like rich butter and makes my skin so very happy.
Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream
This is my trusty cream for warmer temperatures. I like to mix in a few drops of tamanu oil with it.
9. Sleeping Pack
Holika Holika Pig-collagen Jelly Pack
TonyMoly Pure Farm Pig Collagen Jelly Cream
I never sleep without some type of mask pack. I’ve been in the hospital and cracked up nurses who’ve watched me carefully applying my sleeping packs. For a while now, I’ve been a big fan of the pig collagen varieties. I alternate between these two—they both deliver great results and I can’t say I prefer one over the other. As long as I have one of them, my mornings are met with plumper, hydrated, happy skin!
SKIN & TONICS
My name is Kerry, and I am a writer, usability researcher, data analyst, designer, lifelong skincare enthusiast, and one of the authors of this book! My blog is dedicated to skincare guides and reviews of products from all over the world, with a special affinity toward Korean and Japanese products. I’m constantly altering my skincare routine, and it’s important to me on a deeply personal level that my skincare be both highly effective and actively enjoyable. My love of luxury is matched only by my love of visible results.
SKIN TYPE
Normal to dry
SKIN CONCERNS
Prone to hormonally-triggered acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, occasional dehydration, mild sensitivity/reactivity. I am also devoted to line and wrinkle prevention.
WHAT I LOVE ABOUT KOREAN SKINCARE
Since I’ve adopted a Korean skincare approach, my skin health, clarity, luminosity, and resilience is the best it’s ever been. But I what I love most is that the Korean beauty market seems to hold the same ideals about skincare as I do—the products tend to be just as interesting, luxurious, and fun as they are effective.
MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Facial Cleanser
I wash with a low-pH cleanser in the AM to clear away any accumulated residue and sweat, in order to prepare a clean canvas for the day’s skincare products.
Graymelin Moisture Cleanserum
This product is unlike any other cleanser I’ve used before. It is an extremely light, oilless, non-foaming, antioxidant cleanser that gently and thoroughly washes away any sweat or impurities that may have accumulated overnight. Its perfect 5.5 pH makes it ideal for all skin types. It cleanses away dirt and residue so effectively that I sometimes use it to remove makeup in the evening!
2. Acid (AHA/BHA) Toner
I follow up my second cleanse with an acid toner. Acid toners help refine skin texture by exfoliating the skin. By removing the dead skin cells, they also help increase the penetration of the products that follow. An acid toner can also help strengthen the moisture barrier by regulating the skin’s pH, minimize excess sebum, reduce pore appearance, and prevent blackheads and blemishes.
COSRX AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
I use this alcohol-free AHA/BHA liquid toner in the morning by swiping it over my face with a cotton pad.
3. BHA Treatment
Incorporating a BHA exfoliator into my routine has had one of the most dramatic impacts on my acne-prone skin. Combined with my other treatments, it’s rare that a pimple ever fully forms, and the spots I do occasionally see don’t stick around for long.
BHA Blackhead Power Liquid
I use this alcohol-free BHA liquid in the morning, which uses betaine salicylate as its BHA source as opposed to salcylic acid. It’s gentler on my skin than many BHA formulas, while still being highly effective.
3. Hydrating Toner
For this step, I look for a product that’s light and but loaded with enough humectants to provide sustained hydration for my skin.
Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
I love this alcohol-free toner for its light but richly-hydrating formula. Its fermented ingredients soothe facial redness, and it has the antioxidant concentration of a serum or essence. A few small drops is all I need to keep my skin hydrated all day long.
4. Essences, Serums, and Ampoules
This is the step that changes most often in my routine, and I’m frequently using more than one of these product types in order to target multiple concerns.
Hanyul White Chrysanthemum Powder Serum
This serum is packed with antioxidant-rich extracts, as well as lightening ingredients such as arbutin and kojic acid to keep my skin bright and help heal any post-acne red marks.
Banila Co The Black Pullulan Treatment Ampoule
This ampoule provides a solid dose of moisturizing yeast extracts, antioxidants, hydrating humectants, and an array of fatty-acid rich oils. It’s soothing, light, moisturizing, and helps protect skin against free-radical damage.
5. Facial Oil
I like facial oils for their moisture-barrier-strengthening fatty acid content. During the day, I prefer a light yet nourishing oil that can deliver a boost of antioxidant and brighting ingredients.
Goodal Waterest Lasting Water Oil
This water oil strikes the perfect balance and contains humectant moisture in the form of glycerin, as well as an amazing blend of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory oils and extracts. It also contains brightening niacinamide and licorice root, and skin-barrier-friendly ceramide 3. It feels extremely light and non-greasy, yet the moisture it provides lasts for hours.
6. Cream
When I’m looking for a daytime cream, I make sure that it’s occlusive enough to provide a protective seal for my previously applied hydrating ingredients, but without feeling sticky or interfering with the wear of my makeup. I also look for ingredients that are soothing, anti-inflammatory, promote skin health, and that will keep my complexion bright.
Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream
I use a thin layer of this mango seed butter based cream, which is amazingly occlusive while somehow managing not to feel heavy. It contains a slew of antioxidant-rich and anti-inflammatory plant extracts as well as niacinamide and ceramide 3. The finish for this cream is surprisingly smooth with no stickiness, making it great for wearing underneath makeup.
7. Sunscreen
I rotate through multiple favorites when it comes to sun protection. I look for sunscreen formulas that have strong, stable UVA protection in addition to UVB protection. I also need my sunscreen to wear well under makeup, and not feel too heavy.
Dr.G (Gowoonsesang) Brightening Up Sun Cream SPF PA+++
This is a great sunscreen formula that also contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant-rich plant extracts. It feels light, dries matte, and wears well under makeup.
EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE
1. Point Makeup Remover
I wear a lot of eye makeup, and it’s often waterproof, so I like to use a separate point makeup remover to thoroughly remove eyeliner, mascara, and brow gel without tugging. I really love dual-phase removers, which use a blend of water and silicone or oil to quickly and gently dissolve eye and lip makeup.
Innisfree Apple Juicy Eye & Lip Remover
This dual-phase remover works amazingly well, is extremely budget-friendly, doesn’t sting my eyes, and smells like apple candy.
2. Makeup Removing Cleanser
When choosing a makeup removing cleanser for the first step of my double cleanse, I look for an oil-based cleanser that can gently dissolve even the most tenacious base makeup and sunscreen.
Banila Co. Clean-It Zero Cleansing Balm
This balm-textured cleanser turns to oil when applied to the skin. It dissolves makeup really well, and it smells like cherry blossoms. This is the makeup removing cleanser I reach for most often.
3. Facial Cleanser
In the evening, I follow up my makeup removal with a second cleanse to get rid of residual debris or traces of makeup. I look for a low-pH cleanser that thoroughly removes dirt without stripping my skin.
Su:m37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
This slightly acidic solid cleanser smells amazing and creates a luxurious, low-foaming, silky lather that effectively cleanses my face without drying me out.
4. Acid Toner
I follow up my second cleanse with an acid toner in the evening, just as I do in the morning.
COSRX AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
5. Actives & Treatments
After my acid toner, I apply products that contain my more heavy-duty actives such as prescription retinoids or AHA treatments. I don’t use all of these every night—instead, I alternate treatments so I can get the most out of my products without irritating my skin.
Pocketderm Prescription (U.S. American)
Pocketderm is a U.S.-based online service in which an actual dermatologist provides a skincare consultation and prescription through their website or mobile app. I’m using an acne formula that contains Tretinoin, clindamycin, and azealic acid. I use this treatment 3 night a week.
Pure Vitamin C21.5 Advanced Serum
On nights when I’m not using my prescription treatment, I use this vitamin C serum to help keep my skin bright and to fade any post-acne discoloration I might have.
Papa Recipe White Flower Clear Up 8% AHA Gel
On the same nights when I use my vitamin C serum, I also like to use an AHA treatment. This chemical exfoliant prevents dullness and keeps my skin looking bright, even, and practically poreless.
6. Hydrating Toner
Just as I do in my morning routine, the product I use for this step should be light but provide plenty of humectant moisture.
Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
7. Essences, Serums, & Ampoules
In the evening, I look for rich ampoules and serums that are loaded with antioxidants, and contain ingredients that brighten skin or prevent acne flare-ups.
Graymelin Propolis 80 Energy Ampoule
Propolis is extremely high in antioxidants, provides nourishing moisture, and its antibacterial properties make it helpful for the treatment and prevention of acne breakouts. This particular ampoule contains a high percentage of propolis extract as well as hyaluronic acid, aloe, green tea, and ginseng extract.
Su:m37 Secret Repair Concentrate
This serum is easily the spend-iest item in my routine, but I love what it does for my skin. It’s packed with fermented, antioxidant rich ingredients, barrier-strengthening ceramide 3, as well as skin-brightening niacinamide. It also feels and smells positively decadent.
8. Facial Oil
I top off my serums and ampoules with a little facial oil. In the evening I prefer an oil that feels light but will keep me moisturized through the night, and give me a big boost of nourishing antioxidants.
Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil
I love this oil blend by Goodal, which is made with many of my favorite fatty acid and antioxidant-rich beauty oils including camellia, green tea seed, argan, and jojoba. It also includes fermented red yeast rice for an extra moisturizing boost that lasts into the following day. It’s very nourishing, but feels light on my face.
9. Cream
At night, I want to seal in the moisture from my previous products as well as prevent water loss, which I’m particularly susceptible to after using my AHA or prescription retinoid treatments. I also like my creams to provide another dose of antioxidants.
Banila Co. Miss Flower & Mr. Honey Cream
This cream contains a generous dose of honey extract and yeast ferment, as well as a blend of some of my favorite fatty acid and antioxidant rich oils, including argan and evening primrose. It’s extremely emollient and keeps my skin properly moisturized through the night, no matter how dry the air is in my bedroom.
SPECIAL TREATMENTS
Sleeping Pack
I use a sleeping pack at least three times a week to give my face additional treatment, nourishment, and moisture while I sleep. I look for moisturizing sleeping packs that will also give my skin an extra boost of antioxidants, and I consider the addition of brightening ingredients such as arbutin, licorice root, or niacinamide to be a huge plus. I always have several sleeping packs in rotation to choose from. Although my lineup changes frequently, I do have a couple of favorites that I find myself going back to again and again.
Isoi Bulgarian Rose Intensive Lifting Corset Mask
This mask starts off with a gelatin-like texture that spreads easily over the skin to create a nourishing layer of moisture that’s readily absorbed and dries to a non-sticky finish. It smells delightfully like roses, and contains multiple antioxidant and anti-inflammatory extracts and oils, as well as skin brightening licorice root. Its interesting texture makes it a joy to apply, but even more joyous is the glowy, nourished complexion I wake up to when I’ve used this mask.
Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalizing Mask
This is a rich, creamy sleeping mask that creates a wonderfully hydrating and emollient barrier over my skin. It’s the mask I reach for if my skin is especially dry, when I’m recovering from a particularly nasty breakout, or if I’ve accidentally overdone it with a chemical exfoliant. In addition to infusing my face with moisture, it also contains barrier-boosting fatty acids, and a surge of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and brightening ingredients in the form of ginseng extract, green tea extract, licorice root, and arbutin. This mask makes my skin plump, smooth, and luminous.
Sheet Mask
I use a sheet mask during my evening routine two to three times per week. I look for sheet masks that will give me an immediate boost of hydration, and contain either healing, soothing, or skin-brightening ingredients.
Soo Ae Donkey Milk Skin Gel Mask Pack Whitening
This hydro gel mask is a powerhouse for dull or unevenly toned skin. It contains donkey milk, which is rich in amino acids, as well as antioxidant rich fruit and plant extracts. It also includes niacinamide, which is a great brightening and spot-lightening agent as well as an effective anti-acne and anti-aging ingredient.
Papa Recipe Bombee Honey Mask
This fiber mask is basically a honey grenade for your face. It’s absolutely saturated with essence, which is full of moisturizing honey extract, healing propolis, a slew of antioxidants, and a little bit of brightening licorice root extract to round it all out. This mask has an immediate and dramatic plumping, calming, and moisturizing effect, and makes my skin look healthy and radiant.
Wash-off Mask
A wash-off mask a couple Saturdays per month provides me with additional exfoliating or purifying benefits.
Skinfood Black Sugar Strawberry Mask Wash Off
This is an all-time favorite—it’s an sugar-based exfoliating mask that smells and looks like strawberry preserves. Because the sugar melts a bit when it comes in contact with wet skin, it’s not as harsh as many physical exfoliators.
Too Cool for School Morocco Ghassoul Creamy Mousse Pack
Sometimes, especially during our humid summers, I crave a little purifying session with a clay mask. The mousse texture is fun and light. It leaves my skin smooth, my pores refreshed, and contains a little tea tree oil for some extra anti-acne power.
Spot Treatments
When I do have the occasional breakout, I reach for spot treatments that will speed up the healing process and minimize the severity.
Mizon Trouble Clinic Acence Blemish Out Pink Spot
This is a layered serum that contains calamine, AHA, and BHA ingredients to help dry the pimple and reduce inflammation. It drastically shrinks whiteheads overnight.
Ciracle Red Spot Cream
After I’ve successfully dried a spot, I apply this cream to the area for the next few nights. It contains zinc to help with inflammation, centella asiatica extract to reduce redness and prevent scarring, and tea tree oil to further treat the area and prevent the pimple from reanimating.