COUNTRY

When I think of food at the farm, the first thing that comes to mind are my nan, Valda’s, date scones. To me, these melt-in-the-mouth, fruit-laden scones represent all that’s great about country cooking. There are no airs and graces and, for Nan, there was no messing around with weights and measures – it was all done by eye. Without fail, those scones would be spot on, every time. Although Nan’s no longer with us, I’ll still make a batch of her scones whenever I’m down at the farm.

Time is on my side when I’m there – it’s about slowing down and really enjoying the process of cooking. It’s cold-weather country (there’s snow most years) so that influences the way I cook there too. Low and slow is the order of the day, whether it’s a rich braise or a hearty soup. Breakfasts are long and lazy, lunches stretch into dinners and friends often drop by, so many of these dishes need to feed a crowd.

Of course, there’s plenty of lamb (I’d be crazy not to take advantage of the lamb we have on the farm) and it’s pretty hard to go past a good roast chook or confit duck when the weather gets chilly. These are even better when they’re paired with some root vegetables pulled from the veggie patch and roasted in duck fat.

My love of baking comes out in full force (I had a side business baking tarts while I was a young apprentice). Anzac bikkies often get a look-in, or I might make a classic self-saucing pudding to round off a meal.

Generosity lies at the heart of this food, along with a lack of fuss. Although there’s nothing fancy here, there’s a sense of indulgence that only a leisurely pace can bring. It’s the kind of cooking that feeds the soul and I reckon just about all Aussies can relate to this warming country fare.