Autumn to winter // Recipe for four
Pork neck cooked in eucalyptus with chestnuts
This dish comes from such a simple idea. I was out looking at the pigs at Redleaf Farm; they had just been moved into a new purpose-built paddock and it was a wonderful dense forest of eucalypt trees. The leaves had fallen all through their feed troughs and they were greedily eating vegetables and grain mixed with eucalyptus. It would be nice to think that the eucalyptus they eat might flavour the meat, but we’ve given the process a helping hand…
PORK
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pork neck
50 g (13/4 oz) fresh eucalyptus leaves, crushed
10 g (¼ oz) salt cure
Trim the pork neck of any excess sinew or fat. Put the eucalyptus leaves and salt cure in a tray. Put the pork in the tray and rub with the cure.
Lay the pork on a sheet of plastic wrap and roll into a cylinder as tightly as possible. Ensure it is airtight and then place in a steamer for 12 hours at 70°C (158°F). Once steamed, refrigerate until chilled, preferably overnight, before cutting into slices.
HAY ASH
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) lucerne hay
In a fireproof vessel such as a metal bucket, set fire to the lucerne hay and burn until completely black. Allow to cool and then mix in a food processor to make a fine powder. This quantity of lucerne will make about 10 g (¼ oz) hay ash.
SQUID AND ASH GLAZE
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) chicken feet
1 smoked pork hock
20 ml (½ fl oz) squid ink
10 g (¼ oz) hay ash (left)
20 ml (½ fl oz) white soy sauce
Put the chicken feet and pork hock in a large stockpot or saucepan. Add 2 litres (70 fl oz) cold water and simmer gently for 2 hours. Strain the broth, return to the heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the squid ink, hay ash and soy sauce and simmer until reduced to a glaze.
EUCALYPT SALT
5 g (1/8 oz) fresh eucalyptus leaves
10 g (¼ oz) sea salt flakes
Blend the eucalyptus leaves and salt in a spice grinder to make a fine powder.
Combine the soy sauce with 1 tablespoon water. Warm to 60°C (140°F), add the mustard seeds and soak until the liquid has been absorbed.
Ensure the lichen is clean and free from grit. Heat the oil to 185°C (365°F) and fry the lichen until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper and season with salt.
CHESTNUT CREME
200 g (7 oz) fresh chestnuts
500 ml (17 fl oz) full-fat cow’s milk
100 g (3½ oz) peeled, chopped parsnips
100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
10 g (¼ oz) sea salt
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Roast the chestnuts until the skins start to blister. Peel the chestnuts.
Put the milk in a saucepan, add the chestnuts and parsnip and simmer until very tender. Strain and place the chestnuts and parsnip in a food processor. Add the chilled butter in small amounts and blend to create a smooth cream. Season with salt.