Introduction: Bienvenidos

Over the past half century, it is mainly politics that have kept Chile in the international headlines, but it is, above all, the country’s spectacular scenery that appeals to visitors.

Squeezed between the Andes and the Pacific, this spaghetti-like strip of land was affectionately tagged “the thin country” by Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. It is never more than 355km (221 miles) wide, and its coastline extends over 4,300km (2,700 miles). Within its borders are the world’s driest desert, lush expanses of forest, and a spectacular array of glaciers and fjords. And, stretched directly along the Pacific “ring of fire,” Chile has over 2,000 volcanoes, of which around 60 have erupted in the last 500 years.

Chileans are predominantly mestizos – the descendants of mainly Spanish immigrants and indigenous peoples – although there are pockets of pure-blooded Mapuches, as well as direct descendants of British, German, Swiss, and other immigrants. The traditional hospitality of Chileans, noted by travelers since the 18th century, is even more evident today. They have welcomed the influx of foreigners who come to enjoy the country’s invigorating Andean atmosphere as a sign of the international integration that has been key in driving its rapid economic development.

Summertime fun in Valparaíso.

© 2009 Richard Nowitz

Santiago, a modern city with gleaming office tower blocks and high-speed freeways, is the center of activity and the country’s transport hub. But, after a few days visiting its main sights and enjoying its pavement cafés and excellent restaurants, most travelers head either north into the Atacama Desert and the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama, or south to the tranquil Lake Region or the spectacle of the Torres del Paine National Park, or across the Pacific Ocean to Easter Island, also part of Chile, with its mysterious moai. And, in all these places, Chile’s vast open and uncrowded spaces offer plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities that range from trekking and horseback riding to diving and rafting.

Chiloé islanders.

© 2009 Richard Nowitz

Strolling through the capital’s Bellavista neighborhood.

@Apa/Abe Nowitz