Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

Neighbourhood Top Five

1Shoreditch nightlife Donning your craziest outfit, grooming your beard and heading to Shoreditch for cocktails and carousing in clubs such as Cargo.

2Super Market Sunday Crawling the markets with the multicultural masses on a sunny Sunday along Brick Lane and Spitalfields.

3Geffrye Museum Stepping back through the living rooms of time at this wonderfully evocative domestic-interiors museum.

4Vintage shopping in Spitalfields Finding that unique vinyl, 1960s dress or art-deco poster in one of Spitalfields' vintage shops, including Blitz London.

5Brick Lane Strolling through this unique neighbourhood, which bears witness to London's long migration history.

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Explore Clerkenwell, Shoreditch & Spitalfields

Swing by during the day to explore the area's boutiques, vintage shops, markets and cafes. But make sure you come back after dark for a meal at one of the many excellent eateries, followed by an evening flitting between kooky cocktail bars and subterranean nightspots.

Shoreditch can get pretty wild on Friday and Saturday nights, and many places stay open until dawn. Spitalfields is great fun too, although slightly more subdued. Clerkenwell by comparison is positively sedate.

Sunday is a great day to join the crowds shrugging off their hangovers with a stroll through Spitalfields' many markets, but note that Clerkenwell is eerily quiet.

Local Life

ANights out with a difference Mingle with London's hiperati at DreamBagsJaguarShoes; learn to life draw or play ping pong at the Book Club; or take a swing class at the Queen of Hoxton, followed by alfresco drinks on the rooftop.

ACoffee crawl The area has so many excellent cafes that a mild caffeine tremor is de rigueur. Sink a silky flat white or a shotgun espresso at Prufrock Coffee, Shoreditch Grind, Ozone Coffee Roasters or Allpress Espresso.

AThe pho mile Spend some time working out which is your favourite Vietnamese restaurant on the Kingsland Rd/Old St strip.

Getting There & Away

AUnderground Farringdon and Barbican stations on the Circle, Hammersmith & City and Metropolitan Lines are stopping-off points for Clerkenwell. These lines and Central Line also head through Liverpool St, the closest tube stop to Spitalfields. Old St, on the Bank branch of the Northern Line, is the best stop for the western edge of Hoxton and Shoreditch.

AOverground Shoreditch High St and Hoxton are the closest stations to Spitalfields and the eastern parts of Shoreditch and Hoxton.

ABus Clerkenwell and Old St are connected with Oxford St by the 55 and with Waterloo by the 243. The 38 runs up Rosebery Ave and edges past Exmouth Market on its way from Victoria to Islington. The 8 and 242 zip through the city and up Shoreditch High St.

Lonely Planet's Top Tip

Fancy a late one? 333 Mother, XOYO, Cargo and the Horse & Groom all stay open until at least 3am on weekends. Brick Lane Beigel Bake will serve you munchies throughout the night, and for breakfast with a pint, the Fox & Anchor throws back its doors at 7am (8.30am on weekends).

Best Places to Eat

A Clove Club

A Hawksmoor

A Polpo

A Foxlow

A Gate

Best Places to Drink

A Worship St Whistling Shop

A Ye Olde Mitre

A Zetter Townhouse Cocktail Lounge

A Cocktail Trading Co

A Fox & Anchor

A Queen of Hoxton

Best Places to Shop

A Sunday UpMarket

A Old Spitalfields Market

A Collectif

A Rough Trade East

A Magma

1Sights

Clerkenwell, Shoreditch and Spitalfields make up in atmosphere and history for what they lack in 'big ticket sights'. Here you'll come across some of London's oldest buildings, and poignant reminders of the capital's long history of migration. Far from simply being a historical repository, however, the area is the heart of London's creative industry, and it very much feels like it is actively shaping the next chapter in London's history.

1Clerkenwell

St John’s GateHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumstjohn.org.uk; St John's Lane, EC1M; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm daily Jul-Sep, Mon-Sat Oct-Jun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)icon-freeF

This remarkable Tudor gate dates from 1504. During the 12th century, the Knights Hospitaller (a Christian and military order with a focus on providing care to the sick) established a priory here. Inside is a small museum that covers the history of the order (including rare examples of the knights’ armour), as well as its 19th-century revival in Britain as the secular Order of St John and the foundation of St John Ambulance.

The gate was erected as a grand entrance to the priory and survived despite most of the buildings being destroyed when Henry VIII dissolved monasteries throughout England between 1536 and 1540. It enjoyed a varied afterlife, not least as a Latin-speaking coffee house, which was run without much success by William Hogarth’s father during Queen Anne’s reign. Restored in the 19th century, it also housed the Old Jerusalem Tavern, where writers and artists, including Charles Dickens, met.

Try to time your visit to catch one of the comprehensive 80-minute guided tours (11am and 2.30pm Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays) of the gate and the priory church. You’ll also be shown upstairs to the sumptuous 1902 chapter hall and council chamber, which are still used by the order to this day. Suggested tour donation £5.

St John's Priory ChurchCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumstjohn.org.uk; St John’s Sq, EC1M; icon-hoursgifhguided tour only; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

The Priory Church is one of London's oldest churches. This whole area was originally part of the medieval St John's Priory and is now associated with the revived Order of St John. The walled garden, planted with medicinal herbs and flowers, was built as a memorial to St John's workers who died during the world wars. Sadly the church can only be visited on a guided tour, along with St John's Gate.

If the somewhat boxy street-level church doesn't seem like it ever belonged to a medieval priory, that's because it didn't. The real treasure lies beneath, where the nave of the original church has been preserved as a darkened crypt. Built in the 1380s in the Norman Romanesque style, it's one of the oldest buildings in London. Inside there's a sturdy alabaster effigy of a Castilian knight (1575) and a battered monument portraying the last prior, Sir William Weston, as a decaying body in a shroud (a memento mori designed to remind viewers of their own mortality).

The nave once abutted a large circular chancel that was demolished following the dissolution of the priory. Outside, the outline of the original church has been traced onto the square.

CharterhouseHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7253 9503; www.thecharterhouse.org; Charterhouse Sq, EC1M; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm Tue-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftBarbican)icon-freeF

From a monastery, to a Tudor mansion, to the charitable foundation that's operated here since 1611, Charterhouse has played a discreet but important part in London's story. Visitors have free access to the small museum, the chapel and the main court, but must join a one-hour tour to see more (£10 and well worth it). These run three times daily and take in the most historic rooms and courts, and the cloister.

Although Charterhouse was founded in 1371 as a Carthusian monastery (the name derives from Chartreuse in France, where the order is based), the site's history began in 1348 when what is now Charterhouse Sq was used as a plague burial ground during the great epidemic of the Black Death. Some of the bodies were recently excavated during the Crossrail works (a new underground train line) and one skeleton is exhibited in the museum.

In 1537 the monastery was dissolved and the property transferred to King Henry VIII. The prior and 15 of the monks were executed. They were the first of England's Catholic martyrs of the Reformation and three of them were subsequently canonised.

The king sold the property in 1545 to Sir Edward North, who converted it into his London mansion, knocking down the original church and much of the cloister in the process. In 1611 it was purchased by Thomas Sutton, known at the time as the ‘richest commoner in England’. In his will, Sutton directed that it should become a school for boys and an almshouse for ‘destitute gentlemen’. Around 40 pensioners (known as ‘brothers’) still live here today; women were admitted for the first time in 2017. Charterhouse School moved to Surrey in 1872 and is still going strong.

St Etheldreda'sCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7405 1061; www.stetheldreda.com; 14 Ely Pl, EC1; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 12.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftChancery Lane)icon-freeF

More than just a gorgeous oasis of peace, this stunner of a church is also the oldest Roman Catholic church in the UK, dating from the reign of Edward I. The town chapel of the Bishops of Ely dates from the mid-13th century to 1570 and is named after 7th-century East Anglian princess and Fenland saint Etheldreda. The church was saved during the Great Fire of London by an abrupt change in the wind.

The church was also hit in WWII by a Luftwaffe bomb that came through the roof during the Blitz and put paid to its surviving stained glass; the beautiful great east window was replaced in 1952.

Marx Memorial LibraryLIBRARY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7253 1485; www.marx-memorial-library.org; 37a Clerkenwell Green, EC1R; tours £5; icon-hoursgifhtours 1pm Tue & Thu; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Built in 1738 to house a Welsh charity school, this unassuming building is an interesting reminder of Clerkenwell's radical history. From here in 1902 and 1903, during his European exile, Lenin edited 17 editions of the Russian-language Bolshevik newspaper Iskra (Spark). In 1933, 50 years after the death of Karl Marx and around the time of the Nazi book burnings, it was decided that the building would be converted into a library to honour the founder of communism.

Copies of Iskra have been preserved in the library, along with other socialist literature, Spanish Civil War banners and relics from various industrial disputes. Tours visit the room where Lenin worked and the building's 15th-century cellar.

If you think it's odd that Clerkenwell should have a memorial to Marx, you might be surprised to learn that from 1942 to 1951 a bust of Lenin stood in Holford Sq in neighbouring Finsbury, gazing towards his former residence. After being repeatedly vandalised it was moved to Islington Town Hall, where it remained on display until 1996, when it was consigned to a museum.

PRACTICAL TIP

SIGHTS FOR FREE

Sightseeing is cheap in this neighbourhood: the Geffrye Museum is free, as are Charterhouse, St John's Gate, churches and, of course, wandering about – which is exactly what you should be doing on Sundays, when the buzz from the Spitalfields markets is infectious.

Eschew the tours offered at the Geffrye Museum, Charterhouse and St John's Gate and enjoy the free general admission to these sights.

1Finsbury & St Luke's

Bunhill FieldsCEMETERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bunhill Row, EC1; icon-hoursgifh8am-dusk; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This cemetery just outside the city walls has been a burial ground for more than 1000 years. ‘Bunhill’ probably derives from the area's macabre historical name – ‘Bone Hill’. Famous burials include literary giants Daniel Defoe, John Bunyan and William Blake. It’s a lovely place for a stroll, and a rare green space in this built-up area.

Wesley's ChapelCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.wesleyschapel.org.uk; 49 City Rd, EC1Y; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Built in 1778, this warm and welcoming church was the place of work and worship for John Wesley, the founder of the Methodist Church. You can learn more about him in the Museum of Methodism downstairs, and visit his house (at the front) and his grave (behind the church).

1Spitalfields

Crowded around its famous market and grand parish church, Spitalfields has long been one of the capital’s most multicultural areas. Waves of Huguenot (French Protestant), Jewish, Irish and, more recently, Indian and Bangladeshi immigrants have made Spitalfields home.

A walk along Brick Lane is the best way to experience the sights, sounds and smells of Bangladeshi London, but to get a sense of what Georgian Spitalfields was like, branch off to Princelet, Fournier, Elder and Wilkes streets. Having fled persecution in France, the Huguenots set up shop here from the late 17th century, practising their trade of silk weaving. The attics of these grand town houses were once filled with clattering looms and the area became famous for the quality of its silk, even providing the material for Queen Victoria’s coronation gown.

Christ Church SpitalfieldsCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7377 2440; www.ccspitalfields.org; Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This imposing English baroque structure, with a tall spire sitting on a portico of four great Tuscan columns, was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and completed in 1729. The heaviness of the exterior gives way to a brilliantly white and lofty interior, with Corinthian columns and large brass chandeliers.

Brick LaneSTREET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St, Liverpool St)

Full of noise, colour and life, Brick Lane is a vibrant mix of history and modernity, and a palimpsest of cultures. Today it is the centrepiece of a thriving Bengali community in an area nicknamed Banglatown. The southern part of the lane is one long procession of curry and balti houses intermingled with fabric shops and Indian supermarkets.

Sadly the once-high standard of cooking in the curry houses is a distant memory, so you’re probably better off trying subcontinental cuisine in Whitechapel.

Just past Hanbury St is the converted Old Truman Brewery, a series of buildings on both sides of the lane that was once London’s largest brewery. The Director’s House on the left harks back to 1740; the old Vat House across the road with its hexagonal bell tower is early 19th century; and the Engineer’s House next to that dates from 1830. The brewery stopped producing beer in 1989, and in the 1990s it became home to a host of independent music businesses, small shops and hip clubs and bars. North of here Brick Lane is a very different place, stuffed with eclectic clothing stores, excellent bagel bakeries, and plenty of cafes and bars.

Old Truman BreweryHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.trumanbrewery.com; 91 Brick Lane, E1; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Founded here in the 17th century, Truman's Black Eagle Brewery was, by the 1850s, the largest brewery in the world. Spread over a series of brick buildings and yards straddling both sides of Brick Lane, the complex is now completely given over to edgy markets, pop-up fashion stores, vintage clothes shops, indie record hunters, cafes, bars and live-music venues. Beer may not be brewed here any more, but it certainly is consumed.

After decades of decline, Truman's Brewery finally shut up shop in 1989 – temporarily as it turned out, with the brand subsequently resurrected in 2010 in new premises in Hackney Wick. In the 1990s the abandoned brewery premises found new purpose as a deadly cool hub for boozy Britpoppers and while it may not have quite the same cachet today, it's still plenty popular.

Several of the buildings are heritage listed, including the Director's House at 91 Brick Lane (built in the 1740s); the old Vat House directly opposite, with its hexagonal bell tower (c 1800); and the Engineer’s House right next to it (at 150 Brick Lane), dating from the 1830s.

19 Princelet StMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 5352; www.19princeletstreet.org.uk; 19 Princelet St, E1; icon-hoursgifhinfrequent; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)icon-freeF

This 1719 Huguenot town house originally housed a prosperous family of weavers, before becoming home to waves of immigrants, including Polish, Irish and Jewish families, the last of which built a synagogue in the back garden in 1869. In keeping with the house’s multicultural past, it’s now home to a museum of immigration and diversity. The house urgently needs repair and so opens infrequently (usually no more than a dozen times a year); check the website. Donations welcome.

Brick Lane Great MosqueMOSQUE

(Brick Lane Jamme Masjid; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bricklanejammemasjid.co.uk; 59 Brick Lane, E1; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

No building symbolises the different waves of immigration to Spitalfields quite as well as this one. Built in 1743 as the New French Church for the Huguenots, it was a Methodist chapel from 1819 until it was transformed into the Great Synagogue for Jewish refugees from Russia and central Europe in 1898. In 1976 it changed faiths yet again, becoming the Great Mosque. Look for the sundial, high up on the Fournier St frontage.

Top Sight
TOP SIGHT

Dennis Severs' House

This quirky hotchpotch of a cluttered house (built c 1724) is named after the late American eccentric who restored and turned it into what he called a ‘still-life drama’. Severs was an artist who lived in the house (in a similar way to the original inhabitants) until his death in 1999.

Visitors today find they've entered the home of a family of Huguenot silk weavers, who were common to the Spitalfields area in the 18th century. However, while you see the Georgian interiors, with meals and drinks half-abandoned and rumpled sheets, and while you smell cooking and hear creaking floorboards, your ‘hosts’ always remain tantalisingly just out of reach.

From the cellar to the bedrooms, the interiors demonstrate both the original function and design of the rooms as well as the highs and lows of the area’s history. The family's fortunes fade as you progress upstairs, ending in a state of near-destitution on the upper level.

The 'plot' isn't exactly obvious, but no matter, the house is wonderfully evocative and makes for a unique experience.

Don't Miss

ASilent Night tours

AThe house cat

AHogarth tableau

Practicalities

A MAP GOOGLE MAP

Aicon-phonegif%020-7247 4013

Awww.dennissevershouse.co.uk

A18 Folgate St, E1

Aday/night £10/15

Aicon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 5-9pm Mon, 5-9pm Wed & Fri, noon-4pm Sun

Aicon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St

1Shoreditch & Hoxton

Hoxditch? Shoho? Often (confusingly) used interchangeably by Londoners, Hoxton and Shoreditch signify the area stretching north and east from the roundabout at Old St tube station. The name Shoreditch relates to a settlement that grew up immediately north of the old city, around the junction of two important Roman thoroughfares: Kingsland Rd and Old St. Shoreditch was the name of the parish, within which was the village of Hoxton. These days Hoxton is generally known as the area to the north of Old St, up to Kingsland Rd, with Shoreditch being the roads to the south, stretching to the east as far as Brick Lane. But switch them around, or get them confused, and no one will bat an eyelid.

Top Sight
TOP SIGHT

Geffrye Museum

If you like nosing around other people's homes, you'll love this museum devoted entirely to middle-class domestic interiors.

Built in 1714 as a home for poor pensioners, these beautiful ivy-clad almshouses have been converted into a series of living rooms, dating from 1630 to the Victorian era. An extension completed in 1998 contains several 20th-century rooms (a flat from the 1930s, a 1960s suburban lounge and an all-too-familiar 1990s loft-style apartment) as well as a gallery for temporary exhibits, a shop and a cafe.

The rear garden is also organised by era, mirroring the museum’s exploration of domesticity through the centuries. There's also a very impressive walled herb garden, featuring 170 different plants. The lawns at the front are a popular spot for lazing about.

One of the almshouses has been completely restored and furnished to show the living conditions of the original pensioners in the 18th and 19th centuries. It’s the absolute attention to detail that impresses, right down to the vintage newspaper left open on the breakfast table. The setting is so fragile, however, that tours (adult/child £4/free) are only held a few times a month; check the website for up-to-date tour dates.

2Neighbourhood Walk
East End Then & Now

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Start Liverpool St Station

End Old St Station

Length 1.8 miles; 1½ hours

This route leads straight through the heart of historic, multicultural Spitalfields and on to hipper-than-thou Shoreditch. You'll find it at its liveliest on a Sunday, when the various markets are effervescing – but be prepared for a much slower stroll. During the rest of the week, there are still plenty of diverting shops and bars to break your stride.

Leaving the tube station, cross busy Bishopsgate, turn left and then right when you come to 1Middlesex St. This used to be known as Petticoat Lane, after the lacy women's undergarments that were sold here, but that proved too saucy for the authorities and the name was changed in 1830 – to Middlesex!. The East End locals weren't nearly so prudish and the ragtag Sunday market that's been based here for more than 400 years is still known by its former name.

Veer left into Widegate St and continue into narrow 2Artillery Passage, one of Spitalfields' most atmospheric lanes, lined with historic shopfronts and drinking dens. From here, a left then a right will bring you onto Gun St and, at its far end, 3Old Spitalfields Market.

Enter the market and turn right into the covered lane lined with fancy gift shops and eateries – a far cry from the fruit-and-veggie stands that the market was famous for until 1991 when 'New Spitalfields' opened in Leyton. Continue on through the artisan craft and fashion stalls of the market proper and then step out onto Commercial St.

Just over the road is the 4Ten Bells pub – famous as one of Jack the Ripper's possible pick-up joints – and the hulking presence of 5Christ Church. Running between the two, Fournier St is one of Spitalfields' most intact Georgian streetscapes. As you wander along, note the oddball, Harry Potterish numbering (11½ Fournier St) and keep an eye out for famous artsy residents Tracey Emin and Gilbert & George. The last building on the left of Fournier St is 6Brick Lane Great Mosque.

Turn left onto buzzing and colourful 7Brick Lane. Today this narrow but famous thoroughfare is the centrepiece of a thriving Bengali community in an area nicknamed Banglatown. Expect to be cajoled by eager touts as you pass the long procession of curry houses. For the most part the standard is pretty average, despite extravagant claims to the contrary.

Stop at the corner of 8Hanbury St to admire the graffiti and then continue on to 9Old Truman Brewery. North of here Brick Lane is a very different place, stuffed with eclectic clothing shops, old-time Jewish bagel bakeries and a surfeit of cafes and bars.

Further up, at the traffic lights cross Bethnal Green Rd, turn left and then veer right onto Redchurch St, where there are more interesting independent shops to peruse. As you turn right into Club Row, keep an eye out for an elaborate black-and-red piece of street sculpture called aPortal, dedicated to the artist CityZenKane's late son.

Leafy Club Row terminates in bArnold Circus, a circular intersection topped with a wooded mound and a bandstand. Until 1891 this was the very heart of London's worst slum, the Old Nichol rookery. Nearly 6000 people lost their homes when the slum was cleared, with most having no choice but to rent similarly impoverished rooms further east. The rubble from the 730 demolished houses lies under the bandstand.

Take the third road on the left (Calvert Ave) and walk past cSt Leonard's Church (built in the Palladian style in around 1740) to Shoreditch High St. Turn left and cross over to Rivington St.

Just past the railway bridge, look out for a wrought-iron gate on the right leading into dCargo. Just inside the gate, protected under perspex, there's a piece by famous graffiti artist Banksy picturing a security guard holding a poodle on a leash. Banksy's just one of many accomplished street artists to have left their mark on Shoreditch's streets – you'll spot plenty more as you continue along Rivington St.

At the end of Rivington, turn right onto Great Eastern St and then veer left onto traffic-clogged Old St. Believed to have had its origins as a Roman road, it remains a major route. Soon the distinctive arcs straddling the Old St tube station will come into view.

5Eating

In addition to a wealth of fantastic cafes and restaurants, this area has popular food markets with stalls devoted to a wide variety of cuisines. Check out Exmouth Market and Whitecross St Market for weekday lunches, and Brick Lane and the surrounding streets on Sundays. Hoxton's Kingsland Rd and Old St are well known for their reasonably priced Vietnamese eateries.

5Clerkenwell

icon-top-choiceoPolpoITALIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7250 0034; www.polpo.co.uk; 3 Cowcross St, EC1M; dishes £4-12; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Occupying a sunny spot on semi-pedestrianised Cowcross St, this sweet little place serves rustic Venetian-style meatballs, pizzette, grilled meat and fish dishes. Portions are larger than your average tapas but a tad smaller than a regular main – the perfect excuse to sample more than one of the exquisite dishes. Exceptional value for money.

PanzoPIZZA$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.panzopizza.com; 50 Exmouth Market, EC1R; pizza £8.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Never has pizza looked more mouth-watering than at Panzo's: oblong-shaped, loaded with toppings and enjoyed in a dining room bathed in the pink hues of copper-topped tables. It could hardly be more tempting. The pizza dough is made from a mix of rice, soy and wheat flours and double-baked – unusual, but delicious.

Takeaway (£6.50) available too.

ChifafaTURKISH$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chifafa.com; 45-47 Clerkenwell Rd, EC1M; wraps from £5.40; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-9pm Mon-Wed, to 11.30pm Thu-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Chifafa serves what you might call luxury kebabs: delicious wraps filled with grilled meats, vegetables and tasty sauces. Everything is fresh, prepared on the spot and there isn't a deep-fryer or inverted doner pyramid in sight. It is very popular with the local office crowd. Eat in the small dining room or take away.

Hummus BrosCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://hbros.co.uk; 62 Exmouth Market, EC1R; mains from £4.65; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)icon-sustainableS

Ever-popular Hummus Bros can sort you with a bowl of filling hummus with your choice of topping (beef, chicken, tabbouleh etc) eaten with warm pita bread. It’s very filling, enticing at virtually any time, healthy and you can eat in or take away.

Prufrock CoffeeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.prufrockcoffee.com; 23-25 Leather Lane, EC1N; mains £4-7; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Not content with being one of the kings of London's coffee-bean scene (it offers barista training and workshops in 'latte art'), Prufrock also dishes up delicious breakfasts, lunches and cuppa-friendly pastries and snacks. Judging by the number of laptops, plenty of customers treat it as their office.

icon-top-choiceoFoxlowSTEAK$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.foxlow.co.uk; 69-73 St John St, EC1; mains £12-24; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3.30pm Sun; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifvicon-familygifc; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)icon-sustainableS

This lovely brasserie builds on the extensive experience of its founders (of Hawksmoor fame), who always put the quality of their ingredients centre stage. You can therefore expect succulent dry-aged steaks from Ginger Pig beef, slow-cooked ribs, fried chicken and terrific Sunday roasts. The atmosphere is cosy, inviting and relaxed, and staff are chummy. Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for.

There are good-value set meals at lunchtime and early evening on weekdays (two/three courses for £15/18), and it's BYO beer on Mondays and BYO wine on Tuesdays.

icon-top-choiceoGateVEGETARIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7278 5483; www.thegaterestaurants.com; 370 St John St, EC1V; mains £11-15; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10pm; icon-veggifvicon-familygifc; icon-undergroundgiftAngel)

The Gate can probably take a lot of credit for elevating vegetarian cuisine from uninspiring side dishes to starring in its own culinary right. Blending influences from India, the Middle East and Jewish traditions, the food is a riot of flavours. The elegant dining room is in tune with its Islington surrounds: white walls and dark wooden tables and chairs.

Vegans are well catered for.

St JohnBRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7251 0848; www.stjohngroup.uk.com/spitalfields; 26 St John St, EC1M; mains £14.80-24.90; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 6-11pm Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Whitewashed brick walls, high ceilings and simple wooden furniture don't make for a cosy dining space but they do keep diners free to concentrate on St John's famous nose-to-tail dishes. Serves are big, hearty and a celebration of England's culinary past. Don’t miss the signature roast bone marrow and parsley salad (£8.90).

MoritoTAPAS$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7278 7007; www.morito.co.uk; 32 Exmouth Market, EC1R; dishes £6.50-9.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

This diminutive eatery is a wonderfully authentic take on a Spanish tapas bar and has excellent eats. Seats are at the bar, along the window, or on one of the small tables inside or out. It’s relaxed, convivial and often completely crammed; reservations are taken for lunch, but dinner is first come, first served, with couples generally going to the bar.

Comptoir GasconFRENCH, DELI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7608 0851; www.comptoirgascon.com; 63 Charterhouse St, EC1M; mains £10-22.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

The menu is divided into 'best of duck' and 'charcoal grill' sections at this oddly angular bistro-deli specialising in the food and wine of southwest France. It may not sound very French, but we find it hard to go past the juicy duck burger (£9.50) – sans foie gras, naturally.

St John Bread & WineBRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7251 0848; www.stjohngroup.uk.com; 94-96 Commercial St, E1; mains £14.70-18; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm & 6-11pm; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Offers nose-to-tail traditional British fare (potted pork, devilled kidneys, meaty pies) in a simple, clean and bright space. It also has an excellent selection of British cheeses and puddings.

CaravanINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7833 8115; www.caravanrestaurants.co.uk; 11-13 Exmouth Market, EC1R; mains £17.50-20, brunch £7.50-12; icon-hoursgifh8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10.30pm Sat, to 4pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Perfect for a sunny day when its sides are opened onto bustling Exmouth Market, this place is a relaxed affair, offering all-day dining and drinking. The menu has a huge variety of dishes, drawing on flavours from all over the world. The coffee, roasted in the basement, is fantastic.

Modern PantryFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7553 9210; www.themodernpantry.co.uk; 47-48 St John's Sq, EC1V; mains £13.50-21, breakfast £3.50-9.50; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

This three-floor Georgian town house in the heart of Clerkenwell has a cracking all-day menu that is almost as pleasurable to read as it is to eat from. Ingredients are sublimely combined into unusual dishes such as miso-marinated onglet steak or Aleppo chilli- and garlic-marinated pork chop. The breakfasts are great too, though portions can be on the small side.

EagleGASTROPUB$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7837 1353; www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk; 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R; mains £9-17; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

London’s first gastropub may have seen its original owners move on, but it’s still a great place for a bite and a pint, especially at lunchtimes when it’s relatively quiet. The menu fuses British and Mediterranean elements, and the atmosphere is lively. Watch the chefs work their magic right behind the bar, above which is chalked the menu.

MoroSPANISH, MOROCCAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7833 8336; www.moro.co.uk; 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R; mains £16.50-24; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.45pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

The Moorish cuisine on offer at this Exmouth Market institution straddles the Straits of Gibraltar, with influences from Spain, Portugal and North Africa – and a bit of Britain added to the mix. If the tables are full, you can often perch at the bar for some tapas, wine and dessert.

5Finsbury & St Luke's

Look Mum No Hands!CAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7253 1025; www.lookmumnohands.com; 49 Old St, EC1V; dishes £4.25-11.50; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat, from 9am Sun; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftBarbican)

Cyclists and noncyclists alike adore this cafe-workshop, set in a light-filled space looking out onto Old St. Toasties and burgers are the savoury staples; cakes and startlingly impressive coffee complete the offering. There are a few outdoor tables, and staff can loan you a lock if you need to park your wheels.

Shoreditch GrindCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.grind.co.uk; 213 Old St, EC1V; items £2.50-9; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 9am-7pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Housed in a striking little round building, this hip cafe serves top coffee, cooked breakfasts (until a decadent 3pm) and then rustic pizzas and cocktails after dusk. Sit at a window and watch the hipsters go by.

FifteenMODERN EUROPEAN$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3375 1515; www.fifteen.net; 15 Westland Pl, N1; mains £22-24, 2-/3-course lunch £19/24, Sun £15-19; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6-10.30pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

It would be easy to dismiss Jamie Oliver’s nonprofit restaurant as a gimmick if it weren't so good. It's here the chef pioneered his apprenticeship program that has young chefs from disadvantaged backgrounds train with experienced professionals. The scheme has since extended to other restaurants and Fifteen has sealed its reputation for Modern European fare full of pizzazz.

The bar's forte is gin and gin-based cocktails.

5Hoxton

Sông QuêVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.songque.co.uk; 134 Kingsland Rd, E2; mains £7.20-9.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

With the kind of demand for seats that most London restaurants can only dream of, this no-frills, hospital-green Vietnamese joint has been feeding the denizens of London for almost 15 years and often has a queue of people waiting. Service can be abrupt but the food is spot on, with two dozen types of fantastic pho (noodle soup) to choose from.

Kêu!VIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vietnamesekitchen.co.uk; 332 Old St, EC1V; items £6.50-8.45; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm Mon-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This deli-cafe assembles lip-smacking banh mi (filled baguettes with fillings such as spicy roast duck or crispy pork belly) to eat in or take away, as well as salads and rice dishes.

Viet GrillVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7739 6686; www.vietnamesekitchen.co.uk; 58 Kingsland Rd, E2; mains £11-14; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

One of the more upmarket options along Kingsland Road, Viet Grill is a low-lit, modern restaurant set over two floors with a buzzy atmosphere and colonial decor. It offers a good selection of Vietnamese curries and meat and fish dishes along with the more traditional pho and bun (vermicelli).

Cây TreVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7729 8662; www.caytre.co.uk; 301 Old St, EC1V; mains £11-15; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Cây Tre serves up all the fresh and fragrant classics to a mix of Vietnamese diners and Hoxton scenesters in a simple but nicely decorated and tightly packed space. It's worth stopping in for the pho – the broth takes 18 hours to make.

5Shoreditch

Ozone Coffee RoastersCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ozonecoffee.co.uk; 11 Leonard St, EC2A; mains £8.50-13.50; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

During the day this Kiwi-run cafe is full of artsy types hunched over their computers and new-media mavens appropriating booth seats for impromptu meetings. Coffee is Ozone's raison d'être (each preparation – latte, espresso, filter, press etc – is allocated a specific blend or coffee bean); but you could instead opt for a New Zealand wine to accompany your risotto or fish of the day.

Leila’s ShopCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 17 Calvert Ave, E2; dishes £5-10; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Wed-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Tucked away on up-and-coming Calvert Ave, this independent grocery shop doubles as a cafe.

Princess of ShoreditchMODERN BRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7729 9270; www.theprincessofshoreditch.com; 76 Paul St, EC2A; mains £13-17; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

The handsome pub downstairs is a buzzy place for a drink, but swirl up the tight spiral staircase and an entirely different Princess presents itself. Polished stemware glistens on wooden Edwardian tables, while the waitstaff buzz around delivering plates of inventive contemporary fare crafted from top-notch British ingredients.

AndinaPERUVIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7920 6499; www.andinalondon.com; 1 Redchurch St, E2; dishes £6.50-14.50; icon-hoursgifh8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Cheerful Andina sits on the corner of trendy Redchurch St and serves high-quality Peruvian street food. The lively restaurant, set over two floors, is a great place to try creamy ají de gallina (chicken casserole), piquant ceviche and succulent grilled meat skewers. Unsurprisingly, it knocks out a mean pisco sour.

AlbionBRITISH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7729 1051; www.albioncaff.co.uk; 2-4 Boundary St, E2; mains £8-19; icon-hoursgifh8am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifWicon-familygifc; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Those pining for dear Old Blighty's cuisine, sans grease and stodge, should earmark a visit to this self-consciously retro 'caff' for top-quality bangers and mash, game-meat pies, Welsh rarebit, devilled kidneys, full English breakfasts and, of course, fish and chips.

Eyre BrothersSPANISH, PORTUGUESE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7613 5346; www.eyrebrothers.co.uk; 70 Leonard St, EC2A; mains £12-25; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6.30-10.45pm Mon-Fri, 7-11pm Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

The cuisine at this elegant Shoreditch restaurant is Iberian with a touch of African flair, courtesy of the eponymous brothers’ upbringing in Mozambique, and it’s every bit as exciting as it sounds. The rare acorn-fed Ibérico pork, in particular, is top-notch. It’s all accompanied by an extensive list of Portuguese and Spanish wines.

Clove ClubGASTRONOMY$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7729 6496; www.thecloveclub.com; 380 Old St, EC1V; 5-course menu £75; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm Tue-Sat, 6-9.30pm Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

From humble origins as a supper club in a Dalston flat, the Clove Club has transformed into this incredibly impressive Michelin-starred restaurant in Shoreditch Town Hall. Hold onto your hats as you're taken on a culinary canter through multiple courses of intricately arranged, well-thought-out, flavoursome food – including numerous unbidden amuse-bouches (complimentary appetisers) and palate cleansers. Unusually, a vegetarian menu is available.

Cereal Killer CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3601 9100; www.cerealkillercafe.co.uk; 139 Brick Lane, E1; medium cereal £4.30; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm; icon-traingifdShoreditch High Street)

The first cereal-themed cafe in the country perfectly symbolises the hipster spirit – and gentrification, some might say – of its Shoreditch location. There are 120 cereals on offer and a selection of obscenely calorific but epically delicious hot chocolates.

HKKCHINESE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3535 1888; www.hkklondon.com; 88 Worship St, EC2A; mains £12-28, 3-course lunch £38, tasting menu £94; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

If the surrounds are a tad corporate, HKK compensates with the high theatre of chefs slicing and dicing in the centre of the dining room. Duck is a speciality, along with exquisitely constructed dumplings and plenty of other Cantonese delights. Note that the full tasting menu is the only option for dinner.

SHOREDITCH COOL

The Shoreditch phenomenon began in the late 1990s, when creative types who had been chased out of the West End by prohibitive rents began taking over warehouses in what was then an urban wasteland, abandoned after the collapse of the fabrics industry. Within a few years the area was seriously cool, boasting oddball bars, clubs, galleries and restaurants that catered to the new media/creative/freelance squad.

Despite the general expectation that the Shoreditch scene would collapse under the weight of its own beards, the regenerated area is still flourishing, with new developments bringing life to some of London’s poorest corners, spilling over into nearby Hackney and Bethnal Green.

5Spitalfields

Boiler HouseMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boilerhouse-foodhall.co.uk; Old Truman Brewery, 152 Brick Lane, E1; dishes £3-8; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

More than 30 food stalls selling anything from Argentinian to Vietnamese pitch up in the brewery's impressive old boiler room at the weekend. There is also a bar, and you can sit at the communal tables to tuck in. Come spring and summer, there are dozens more tables in the backyard.

Nude EspressoCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nudeespresso.com; 26 Hanbury St, E1; dishes £4.50-12; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat & Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

A simply styled, cosy cafe serving top-notch coffee (roasted across the street). Along with the standard blend, it has rotating single origin coffees and filter as well as espresso-based brews. The sweet treats are delicious, as are the cooked breakfasts, brunch items and light lunches.

Brick Lane Beigel BakeryBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 159 Brick Lane, E2; bagels £1-4.10; icon-hoursgifh24hr; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

This relic of the Jewish East End still makes a brisk trade serving dirt-cheap homemade bagels (filled with salmon, cream cheese and/or salt beef) to hungry shoppers and late-night boozers. The queues on Sundays are epic.

GunpowderINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gunpowderlondon.com; 11 White's Row, E1; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 5.30-10.30 Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

As you walk into this tiny Indian place, it's the smell that hits you: a delicious blend of spices and incense. The punchy food, inspired by family recipes and home cooking, lives up to this expectation: plates are small and designed for sharing, and the flavours of each dish are divine.

Galvin HOPGASTROPUB$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7299 0404; www.galvinrestaurants.com; 35 Spital Sq, E1; mains £14.50-19.50; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-9.30pm Sun; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

It may be the little sister of glamorous Galvin La Chapelle next door, but this 'pub deluxe', as it styles itself, is all about giving traditional pub fare a well-executed turn: think premium hot dogs and burgers, fish pie and venison casserole. Go 'bottomless' for brunch for just £10, with your choice of Bloody Mary, prosecco or pilsner.

Som SaaTHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.somsaa.com; 43a Commercial St, E1; dishes £7-16.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sat, 5-11pm Mon-Sat; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This ever-popular Thai restaurant has come a long way from its early days as a pop-up shop. The menu is relatively short, with a selection of curries, grilled dishes, salads and stir-fries, but the food is authentic and delicious. Portions are designed to be shared, although the staff's recommendation of two dishes per person is rather generous.

Unusually for a Thai restaurant, there is an extensive drinks list featuring superb cocktails and a great choice of wines and beers.

Poppie'sFISH & CHIPS$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.poppiesfishandchips.co.uk; 6-8 Hanbury St, E1; mains £12.20-15.90; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This glorious re-creation of a 1950s East End chippy comes complete with waitstaff in pinnies and hairnets, and Blitz memorabilia. As well as the usual fishy suspects, it does those old-time London staples – jellied eels and mushy peas – plus kid-pleasing, sweet-tooth desserts (sticky toffee pudding or apple pie with ice cream), and there's a wine list.

Takeaway is a lot cheaper (£6.50 to £8.50).

Rosa’sTHAI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 1093; www.rosaslondon.com; 12 Hanbury St, E1; mains £8-13; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10.30pm; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

Simply kitted out with low benches and stools, red-fronted Rosa's serves tasty Thai food and surprisingly good coffee (courtesy of Monmouth roasters). Go for its signature pumpkin curry, one of the zingy salads or a delicious chargrill.

Galvin La ChapelleFRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7299 0400; www.galvinrestaurants.com; 35 Spital Sq, E1; mains £28.50-39, 2-/3-course lunch or early dinner £29/34.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm & 6-9.30pm Sun; icon-veggifv; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

For lashings of la-di-da with an extra serve of ooh la la, you can't beat the incredibly grand surrounds of this soaring Victorian hall, inhabited by bow-tied and waistcoated waitstaff and very well-heeled guests. The Michelin-starred menu rises to the challenge, delivering traditional French cuisine with lots of contemporary embellishments. Early diners can take advantage of a good-value set menu.

Wright BrothersSEAFOOD$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7324 7730; www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk; 8a Lamb St, E1; mains £22.50-65; icon-hoursgifhnoon-10.30pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

For the Wright Brothers, the oyster is their world: they operate the Duchy of Cornwall oyster farm on Prince Charles' estate. This chic dining bar serves up freshly shucked shellfish, delicately constructed fish dishes and exquisite cocktails, all on the edge of Spitalfields market.

icon-top-choiceoHawksmoorSTEAK$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7426 4850; www.thehawksmoor.com; 157 Commercial St, E1; mains £20-50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 5-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

You could easily miss discreetly signed Hawksmoor, but confirmed carnivores will find it worth seeking out. The dark wood, bare bricks and velvet curtains make for a handsome setting in which to gorge yourself on the best of British beef. The Sunday roasts (£20) are legendary.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Shoreditch is the torchbearer of London’s nightlife: there are dozens of bars, clubs and pubs, open virtually every night of the week (and until the small hours at weekends) and it can get pretty rowdy. Clerkenwell is more sedate, featuring lovely historic pubs and fine cocktail bars. Spitalfields sits somewhere in between the two extremes and tends to be defined by its City clientele on week nights and market-goers on Saturday and Sunday.

6Clerkenwell

icon-top-choiceoZetter Townhouse Cocktail LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7324 4545; www.thezettertownhouse.com; 49-50 St John’s Sq, EC1V; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-12.45am; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Tucked away behind an unassuming door on St John's Sq, this ground-floor bar is decorated with plush armchairs, stuffed animal heads and a legion of lamps. The cocktail list takes its theme from the area’s distilling history – recipes of yesteryear plus homemade tinctures and cordials are used to create interesting and unusual tipples. House cocktails are all £10.50.

FabricCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabriclondon.com; 77a Charterhouse Street, EC1M; £5-25; icon-hoursgifh11pm-7am Fri-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon, Barbican)

London's leading club, Fabric's three separate dance floors in a huge converted cold store opposite Smithfield meat market draws impressive queues (buy tickets online). FabricLive (on selected Fridays) rumbles with drum 'n' bass and dubstep, while Fabric (usually on Saturdays but also on selected Fridays) is the club's signature live DJ night. Sunday's WetYourSelf! delivers house, techno and electronica.

Following a temporary closure in 2016 due to drug-related deaths, the club operates a strict door policy (you must be over 19 and have a formal ID) and a zero-tolerance policy towards drug use.

icon-top-choiceoFox & AnchorPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.foxandanchor.com; 115 Charterhouse St, EC1M; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftBarbican)

Behind the Fox & Anchor's wonderful art-nouveau facade is a stunning traditional Victorian pub that has retained its three beautiful snugs at the back of the bar. Fully celebrating its proximity to Smithfield Market, the food is gloriously meaty. Only the most voracious of carnivores should opt for the City Boy Breakfast (£19.50).

Jerusalem TavernPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.stpetersbrewery.co.uk; 55 Britton St, EC1M; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Fri; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Pick a wood-panelled cubicle at this tiny and highly atmospheric pub housed in a building dating from 1720 and select from the fantastic beverages brewed by St Peter's Brewery in Suffolk. Be warned: it's hugely popular and often very crowded.

icon-top-choiceoYe Olde MitrePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.yeoldemitreholborn.co.uk; 1 Ely Ct, EC1N; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Fri; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

A delightfully cosy historic pub with an extensive beer selection, tucked away in a backstreet off Hatton Garden, Ye Olde Mitre was built in 1546 for the servants of Ely Palace. There’s no music, so rooms echo only with amiable chit-chat. Queen Elizabeth I danced around the cherry tree by the bar, they say.

Café KickBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7837 8077; www.cafekick.co.uk; 43 Exmouth Market, EC1R; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon, Angel)

A bare-boards bar with a Continental European feel, where the action centres on a handful of foosball tables. The bar is big on any and all kind of sport, which you can watch on one of the many screens.

BounceBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bouncepingpong.com/farringdon; 121 Holborn, EC1N; icon-hoursgifh4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftChancery Lane)

This 1950s-themed basement cocktail bar in Holborn is the self-declared home of ping pong, reputedly located in the exact spot the sport was invented. At one end there are 17 table tennis tables – including one from the 2012 London Olympics – and at the other an Italian restaurant. An hour's table hire costs £21 (off-peak) or £29.50 (peak).

VinotecaWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vinoteca.co.uk; 7 St John St, EC1M; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Simple yet elegant oak decor, an astonishingly comprehensive wine list and amiable service make this a popular choice with suited City workers and local creatives. All wines are also available by the bottle at the on-site shop, and the food is good too.

Three KingsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-11pm Sat; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

This down-to-earth and welcoming backstreet pub attracts a friendly bunch of relaxed locals for its quirky decor, great music and good times.

6Hoxton

GloryGAY & LESBIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7684 0794; www.theglory.co; 281 Kingsland Rd E2; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 1-11pm Sun; icon-traingifdHaggerston)

A charming cast has taken over this cosy corner pub, transforming it into one of London's most legendary queer cabaret venues. Order a Twink in Pink or a Schlong Island Iced Tea from the cocktail list and brace yourself for whatever wackiness is on offer. All genders welcome.

Happiness ForgetsCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.happinessforgets.com; 8-9 Hoxton Sq, N1; icon-hoursgifh5-11pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This low-lit, basement bar with good-value cocktails is relaxed and intimate, overseen by dapper-looking staff in white shirts and colourful suspenders. Look for the signs for Ruby cafe and take the stairs heading down. It's worth reserving, and you won't want to leave.

White LyanBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.whitelyan.com; 153-155 Hoxton St, N1; icon-hoursgifh5pm-late Wed-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

All the tipples are hand-crafted in-house at cool White Lyan. Zero ice, sugar, fruit or citrus, and no brands, so what you get are premixed and prechilled drinks from the fridge every time, including house gin, whisky, bourbon, vodka, rum, cordials and infusions. The menu is cutting-edge, but prices are fairly standard: £10 to £11 for cocktails and £3 for shots.

BridgeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Kingsland Rd, E2; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30am; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

It doesn't look like much from the outside, but shuffle into this eastern Mediterranean–style cafe-bar and you'll find an Aladdin's cave. Upstairs is particularly over the top. Hold court with a strong drink (coffee or spirits) and a slice of baklava.

Red LionPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 41 Hoxton St, N1; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Just far enough from Hoxton Sq to avoid being overrun by weekend blow-ins, the Red Lion has a local-pub vibe – but given this is Hoxton, the locals are anything but typical. It's spread over four floors, but the roof terrace is the major draw.

333 MotherBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.333mother.com; 333 Old St, EC1V; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Hoxton’s true old-timer, Mother just keeps going, despite its hipness halo slipping slightly. It's quite a relaxed affair on weekdays, when sipping drinks on the roof terrace is really very pleasant. Things heat up on Fridays and Saturdays: DJs start playing about 8pm downstairs and the Mother Bar on the 1st floor opens for full-on revelling from about 10pm.

MacbethPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.themacbeth.co.uk; 70 Hoxton St, N1; icon-hoursgifh5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 2am Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

This enormous old boozer on a still-to-be-gentrified stretch, just a short walk north of Hoxton Sq, is an established stop in the ever-changing Hoxton scene. It provides a great platform for up-and-coming music talent and also hosts fun nights such as artist karaoke (Amy Winehouse, Lady Gaga etc) and themed events. Admission is usually £5 to £8.

6Shoreditch

icon-top-choiceoQueen of HoxtonBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.queenofhoxton.com; 1 Curtain Rd, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This industrial-chic bar has a games room, basement and varied music nights (including oddballs such as dance lessons and ukulele jamming sessions), but the real drawcard is the vast rooftop bar, decked out with flowers, fairy lights and even a wigwam. It has fantastic views across the city.

icon-top-choiceoWorship St Whistling ShopCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 0015; www.whistlingshop.com; 63 Worship St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

While the name is Victorian slang for a place selling illicit booze, this subterranean drinking den's master mixologists explore the experimental limits of cocktail chemistry and aromatic science, as well as concocting the classics. Many ingredients are made with rotary evaporators in the on-site lab. Also runs cocktail masterclasses.

XOYOCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.xoyo.co.uk; 32-37 Cowper St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh9pm-4am Fri & Sat, hours vary Sun-Thu; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This fantastic Shoreditch warehouse club throws together a pulsing and popular mix of gigs, club nights and art events. Always buzzing, it has a varied line-up of indie bands, hip hop, electro, dubstep and much in between, and attracts a mix of clubbers, from skinny-jeaned hipsters to more mature hedonists (but no suits).

Shoreditch Sky TerraceROOFTOP BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3310 5555; www.shoreditch.courthouse-hotel.com; 335-337 Old St, EC1; icon-hoursgifh4pm-midnight May-Oct; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Set atop the Grade II–listed Courthouse Hotel in the centre of Shoreditch, this rooftop bar has fantastic views of London’s skyline. During the week it’s a great spot for a date – the atmosphere is lively but tables are spaced far enough apart to ensure privacy. Come the weekend it’s more of a party venue, as DJs take the stage.

Fight ClubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3019 3093; www.flightclubdarts.com; 2a Worship St, EC2; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftMoorgate)

It’s not entirely clear why this darts bar has called itself Fight Club, but in any case we’re here to break the first rule and talk about it. The game evokes images of musty pubs and beer-soaked carpets, but this place is super-slick with gleaming decor. Special cameras track the darts in flight, meaning your score pops up automatically on a screen.

KickBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafekick.co.uk; 127 Shoreditch High St, E1; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

With its lively vibe, Kick is a fab place to watch big football games. The flag-adorned ground floor features four foosball tables; downstairs has leather sofas and simple tables and chairs; and there are spots on the pavement too. Generous happy hour daily from 4pm to 7pm.

Allpress EspressoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.allpressespresso.com; 58 Redchurch St, E2; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Part of the great Antipodean takeover of London cafes, this distant outpost of a New Zealand brand serves perfectly crafted coffee from its neat-as-a-pin roastery. It's a super place for breakfast: we recommend the mixed plate with salmon (£10.50).

Old Street RecordsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3006 5911; www.oldstreetrecords.com; 350-354 Old St, EC1; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This spacious music bar in the heart of Shoreditch has become an institution in the area. It has live performances six nights a week, ranging across jazz, soul, funk and rock. Housemade pizzas are top-notch, and happy hour runs from 5pm to 8pm.

Old Blue LastPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theoldbluelast.com; 38 Great Eastern St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Frequently crammed with a hip teenage-and-up crowd, this scuffed corner pub’s edgy credentials are courtesy of Vice magazine, the bad-boy rag that owns the place. It hosts some of the best Shoreditch parties and lots of live music.

Callooh CallayCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7739 4781; www.calloohcallaybar.com; 65 Rivington St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh6pm-1am Mon-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Given it’s inspired by Jabberwocky, Lewis Carroll’s nonsense poem, this bar’s eccentric decor is to be expected. The cocktails are top-notch.

Book ClubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7684 8618; www.wearetbc.com; 100-106 Leonard St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh8am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri, 10am-2am Sat, to midnight Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

A creative vibe animates this fantastic one-time Victorian warehouse. Book Club hosts DJs and oddball events (life drawing, workshops, twerking lessons and the Crap Film Club) to complement the drinking and enthusiastic ping pong and pool playing. Food is served throughout the day and there's a scruffy basement bar below.

DreamBagsJaguarShoesBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jaguarshoes.com; 32-36 Kingsland Rd, E2; icon-hoursgifhnoon-1am; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftHoxton)

The bar is named after the pre-existing signs on the two shops whose space it now occupies, a nonchalance that's typical example of we-couldn’t-care-less Shoreditch chic. The street-level interior is filled with Formica-topped tables and hung with art. Downstairs there's a larger space where DJs hit the decks at weekends.

BrewDogBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brewdog.com; 51-55 Bethnal Green Rd, E1; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

BrewDog is an ale aficionado's paradise, with 18 different brews on tap, hundreds by the bottle and, to soak it all up, some excellent burgers (including interesting variations such as brisket and soy). Its own crowd-funded eco-brewery is located Scotland, near Aberdeen, and it stocks other microbrewery beers too.

icon-top-choiceoCargoBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cargo-london.com; 83 Rivington St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifhnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Cargo is one of London’s most eclectic clubs. Under its brick railway arches you’ll find a dance floor, a bar and an outside terrace adorned with two original Banksy images. The music policy (hip hop, pop, R&B and club classics) is varied, with plenty of up-and-coming bands also in the line-up. Food is available throughout the day.

Horse & GroomPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thehorseandgroom.net; 28 Curtain Rd, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-11pm Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 4am Fri, 6pm-4am Sat; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Nicknamed the 'disco pub', this relaxed venue has two intimate spaces with hedonistic nights of house, funk, soul and, of course, disco. The site's had a long history in entertainment – under the women's toilets, archaeologists have found the remains of the theatre where Shakespeare premiered Romeo and Juliet and Henry V.

CatchCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecatchbar.com; 22 Kingsland Rd, E2; icon-hoursgifh6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, 7pm-1am Sun; icon-undergroundgiftOld St or Shoreditch High St)

Catch's interior is eye-catching indeed with its colourful decor. Upstairs you’ll hear anything from '90s to funk and hip hop, and a great selection of new and established bands. Downstairs you get a big house-party vibe with DJs who mix up pretty much anything from chart hits to electro and techno.

AquariumCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clubaquarium.co.uk; 256-264 Old St, EC1; icon-hoursgifhhours vary; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

The real attraction at this big and brash club is the swimming pool and Jacuzzi (towels provided) and the often very-late opening hours (selected nights until 9am). DJs play mainly house and techno to a mainstream, dressed-up crowd. Trainers (sneakers) are not welcome here.

6Spitalfields

icon-top-choiceoCocktail Trading CoCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecocktailtradingco.co.uk; 68 Bethnal Green Rd, E1; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 2pm-midnight Sat, 2-10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

In an area famous for its edgy, don't-give-a-damn attitude, this exquisite cocktail bar stands out for its classiness and cocktail confidence. The drinks are truly unrivalled, from the flavours to the presentation – bottles presented in envelopes, ice cubes as big as a Rubik's cube and so on. The decor is reminiscent of a colonial-era gentlemen's club, just warmer and more welcoming.

HawksmoorCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 7392; www.thehawksmoor.com; 157b Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifh5.30-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, noon-1am Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

Black leather, bevelled mirror tiles and a copper wall gleam with candlelight in this darkly glamorous basement bar below a popular steak restaurant. The adventurous cocktail list is matched with a good selection of beer, cider and wine, and tempting takes on classic American bar food (burgers, hot dogs and wings).

Mayor of Scaredy Cat TownBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.themayorofscaredycattown.com; 12-16 Artillery Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 3pm-midnight Fri, noon-midnight Sat, to noon-10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This wood and brick secret basement bar is a refreshingly tongue-in-cheek alternative to a downstairs cocktail-bar scene that can take itself too seriously. Enter through the Smeg fridge door in the wall of the Breakfast Club cafe. Give the password (ask to see the Mayor of Scaredy Cat Town) and staff will let you in. Cocktails £9 to £10.

Golden HeartPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 110 Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

It’s a distinctly bohemian crowd that mixes in the cosy, traditional interior of this brilliant Spitalfields pub, famous as the watering hole for the cream of London’s art crowd. The highlight of a visit a chat with Sandra, the landlord-celebrity who talks to all comers and keeps things fun.

Ten BellsPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tenbells.com; 84 Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

This landmark Victorian pub with large windows and beautiful tiles is perfectly positioned for a pint after exploring Spitalfields Market. The most famous of London's Jack the Ripper pubs, it was patronised by his last victim before her grisly end, and possibly by the serial killer himself. Gin menu, pork scratchings and pie of the day offered.

93 Feet EastBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.93feeteast.co.uk; 150 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh5-11pm Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 3-10.30pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

Part of the Old Truman Brewery complex, this venue has a courtyard, three big rooms and an outdoor terrace that gets crowded with a cool East End crowd on sunny afternoons. There are DJs and plenty of live music on offer.

3Entertainment

icon-top-choiceoElectric CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-3350 3490; www.electriccinema.co.uk; 64-66 Redchurch St, E2; tickets £11-19; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Run by Shoreditch House, an uber-fashionable private member's club, this is cinema-going that will impress a date, with space for an intimate 48 on the comfy armchairs. There's a full bar and restaurant in the complex, and you can take your purchases in with you. Tickets go like crazy, so book ahead.

Sadler’s WellsDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7863 8000; www.sadlerswells.com; Rosebery Ave, EC1R; icon-undergroundgiftAngel)

A glittering modern venue that was, in fact, first established in 1683, Sadler's Wells is the most eclectic modern-dance and ballet venue in town, with experimental dance shows of all genres and from all corners of the globe. The Lilian Baylis Studio stages smaller productions.

Rich MixLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7613 7498; www.richmix.org.uk; 35-47 Bethnal Green Rd, E1; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

Founded in 2006 in a converted garment factory, this modern cultural centre contains a three-screen cinema, a bar and a theatre. Movies shown are pretty mainstream, but the programming for performing arts is hugely eclectic, with anything from spoken word to live music and comedy gracing the stage.

Café 1001LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 6166; www.cafe1001.co.uk; 91 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh6am-midnight; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

A popular and huge cafe with grills and cakes, lounge seating during the day and a mix of events across two stages in the evenings (DJs, live music, open mic nights, spoken word etc). It gets packed at weekends.

7Shopping

This is a top area for discovering cool boutiques and market stalls that showcase up-and-coming designers, not to mention endless vintage stores. There are tonnes of shops on and around Brick Lane, especially in burgeoning Cheshire St, Hanbury St and the Old Truman Brewery. Clerkenwell is mostly known for its jewellery and the work of its artisan craftspeople.

icon-top-choiceoSunday UpMarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sundayupmarket.co.uk; Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

The Sunday Upmarket (which in fact opens Saturdays and Sundays) sprawls within the beautiful red-brick buildings of the Old Truman Brewery. You'll find young designers in the Backyard Market, a drool-inducing array of food stalls in the Boiler House, antiques and bric-a-brac in the Tea Rooms and a huge range of vintage clothes in the basement across the street.

icon-top-choiceoCollectifFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.collectif.co.uk; 58 Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

If you love the feminine silhouette of the 1940s and the pin-up look of the 1950s, you will swoon over Collectif's vintage-inspired dresses, shirts, coats and accessories.

icon-top-choiceoRough Trade EastMUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.roughtrade.com; Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

It's no longer directly associated with the legendary record label (home to The Smiths, The Libertines and The Strokes, among many others), but this huge record shop is still the best for music of an indie, soul, electronica and alternative persuasion. In addition to an impressive selection of CDs and vinyl, it also dispenses coffee and stages promotional gigs.

icon-top-choiceoOld Spitalfields MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oldspitalfieldsmarket.com; Commercial St, E1; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Fri & Sun, 11am-5pm Sat; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

Traders have been hawking their wares here since 1638 and it's still one of London's best markets. Today's covered market was built in the late 19th century, with the more modern development added in 2006. Sundays are the biggest and best days, but Thursdays are good for antiques and Fridays for independent fashion. There are plenty of food stalls too.

icon-top-choiceoMagmaBOOKS, GIFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.magmabooks.com; 117-119 Clerkenwell Rd, EC1R; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftChancery Lane)

This much-loved shop sells coffee-table books, magazines and almost anything on the design cutting edge. It has some lovely children's books and activity sets too. Great for present shopping.

Vintage (Up)MarketVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vintage-market.co.uk; Old Truman Brewery, F Block, 85 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Thu-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

This basement market has a fabulous selection of vintage fashion, posters and vinyls, and even the odd piece of furniture. Although it is part of the Sunday Upmarket, it is open from Thursday to Sunday.

Blitz LondonVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.blitzlondon.co.uk; 55-59 Hanbury St, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

One of the capital's best secondhand clothes stores, with more than 20,000 hand-selected items of men's and women's clothing, shoes and accessories spanning four decades since the 1960s. You'll find anything from mainstream brands such as Nike to designer labels such as Burberry.

Backyard MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.backyardmarket.co.uk; 146 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Just off Brick Lane, the Backyard Market fills a large brick warehouse (part of the Old Truman Brewery complex) with stalls selling designer clothes, ceramics, jewellery, unique prints and funky furniture titbits.

E.C.OneJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7713 6185; www.econe.co.uk; 41 Exmouth Market, EC1R; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Sat; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Husband-and-wife team Jos and Alison Skeates sell gorgeous contemporary collections by British and international jewellery designers. Watch the jewellers at work at the rear of the shop.

Tatty DevineJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7739 9191; www.tattydevine.com; 236 Brick Lane, E2; icon-hoursgifh10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Harriet Vine and Rosie Wolfenden make hip and witty perspex jewellery that’s become the favourite of many young Londoners. Their original designs feature all manner of flora- and fauna-inspired necklaces, as well as creations sporting moustaches, dinosaurs and bunting. Name necklaces (made to order; from £27.50) are also a treat.

Tea RoomsANTIQUES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bricklane-tearooms.co.uk; Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

Whether you're after a vintage suitcase, some mismatched crockery for that shabby-chic feel, antique furniture or unique souvenirs, this warren of stalls should see you right.

House of HackneyHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.houseofhackney.com; 131 Shoreditch High St, E1; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Selling everything from furniture to china and clothing, all in the zaniest of prints, this store is well worth a look. If you ever wanted to have your coffee mug match the jungle print on your wallpaper and lampshade, it's the store for you.

BoxparkSHOPPING CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.boxpark.co.uk; 2-10 Bethnal Green Rd, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; icon-wifigifW; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

A great place to find both up-and-coming and established brands, Boxpark is a quirky shopping mall created from shipping containers. The series of tiny container shops (pop-up or permanent) sells a wide variety of items: fashion, design, gifts, art and wine. Head to the upper level for restaurants, bars and a terrace.

Mr StartCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://mr-start.com; 40 Rivington St, EC2A; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 7pm Thu, 11am-6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftOld St)

This supremely elegant and cool menswear boutique is brought to you by fashion designer Philip Start. It offers casualwear as well as tailoring, all made with gorgeous textiles – think cashmere, merino, silk and the finest cottons.

PresentCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.present-london.com; 140 Shore­ditch High St, E1; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6.30pm Sat, to 5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Everything for the hip and financially endowed gentleman, including designer gear, shoes and chutney.

Brick Lane MarketMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitbricklane.org; Brick Lane, E1; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Spilling out into its surrounding streets, this irrepressibly vibrant market fills a vast area with household goods, bric-a-brac, secondhand clothes, cheap fashion and ethnic food.

Hatton GardenJEWELLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hatton-garden.net; EC1N; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

If you're in the market for classic settings or unmounted stones, stroll along Hatton Garden jewellery quarter – it’s chock-a-block with gold, diamond and jewellery shops, especially at its southern end.

Over the quiet Easter weekend of 2015, in a heist worthy of a Hollywood film, thieves using a stolen industrial-sized diamond-tipped drill cut through a 50cm reinforced-concrete wall to break into the basement vault of a safe-deposit company here. They escaped with an estimated £60 million of loot.

Craft CentralARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.craftcentral.org.uk; 33-35 St John’s Sq, EC1M; icon-undergroundgiftFarringdon)

Headquarters for a not-for-profit organisation supporting local craftspeople and designers, Craft Central has a small shop showcasing work from a different artisan every week. The real trick is to time your visit with one of the biannual Made In Clerkenwell open days (admission £3), when more than 100 designers open up their workshops and sell their wares.

Labour & WaitHOMEWARES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.labourandwait.co.uk; 85 Redchurch St, E2; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Tue-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Dedicated to simple and functional, yet scrumptiously stylish, traditional British and European homewares, Labour & Wait specialises in items by independent manufacturers who make their products the old-fashioned way. Browse shaving soaps, enamel coffee pots, luxurious lambswool blankets, elegant ostrich-feather dusters and even kitchen sinks.

Absolute VintageVINTAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-7247 3883; www.absolutevintage.co.uk; 15 Hanbury St, E1; icon-hoursgifh11am-7pm; icon-undergroundgiftLiverpool St)

As well as the secondhand clothes for men and women, check out the mammoth vintage shoe collection here. There are colours and sizes for all, with footwear ranging from designer to something out of your grandparents' storage.

SUPER MARKET SUNDAY

Head to the East End on a Sunday and it can feel as though you can’t move for markets. Starting at Columbia Road Flower Market in East London and working your way south via Brick Lane and its Sunday UpMarket to Old Spitalfields Market makes for a colourful consumerist crawl.

2Sports & Activities

Junkyard GolfMINIGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.junkyardgolfclub.co.uk; 91 Brick Lane, E1; per person £9.50; icon-hoursgifh4-11pm Mon-Thu, from noon Fri-Sun; icon-undergroundgiftShoreditch High St)

Based in the Old Truman Brewery – a graffiti-covered warehouse – Junkyard Golf has four minigolf courses, each with nine holes, and all themed around, well, junk. The four bars ensure you won’t go thirsty, and street-food traders are on hand with cheese toasties, hot dogs and nachos. Children under 18 allowed Sunday to Wednesday till 7pm only.