A Perfect Day in Bologna
9am
Breakfast
Kick off the day with coffee and diet-busting brioches at the Caffè Sette Chiese on Piazza Santo Stefano. Secure a seat under the arches of the portico for fine views of Santo Stefano. After breakfast wander through the delightful jumble of medieval churches, cloisters and courtyards.
10am
Strada Maggiore
From Via Santo Stefano take the Corte Isolani, a quaint medieval warren of galleries and cafés, to Strada Maggiore where porticoes and palatial homes line the street. Browse in elegant antique shops and/or visit the delightful Museum of Music and Gothic Church of Santa Maria della Vita.
11am
Historic core
Head for Piazza del Nettuno, host to Giambologna’s celebrated statue of Neptune, and beyond to Piazza Maggiore, which is overlooked by the Basilica di San Petronio. Here, absorb everyday life in this sweeping square, then take a peek inside the monumental interior of San Petronio.
Noon
Culinary delights
Plunge into the maze of medieval alleys off Piazza Maggiore with tantalising delis, fresh food stalls and a chic covered food hall. For lunch grab a piadina (sandwich) crammed with Parma Ham, Mortadella and local cheeses, or head for Tamburini at Via Caprarie 1, a famous gourmet deli and café.
2pm
Ancient university
Take Via dell’Archiginnasio where porticoes shelter elegant designer stores. Visit the frescoed Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, first seat of Europe’s oldest university and where, in the Teatro Anatomico, some of the earliest dissections in Europe were performed. Take a restorative coffee at Zanarini, an upmarket café with divine cakes on the corner of Piazza Galvani.
3pm
Leaning towers
Head northeast to the Due Torri and gawp at the tipsy towers. Offload a few calories by taking the 480 steps to the top of Torre degli Asinelli. Wander around the nearby former Jewish Ghetto, now home to some delightful artisan workshops.
4pm
University quarter
Wander along Via Zamboni for a flavour of the university. Pass noble palaces converted to bustling faculties, bohemian bars, eclectic cafés and arty bookshops.
6pm
Aperitivo time
Head to Le Stanze, the private chapel of the Palazzo Bentivoglio at Via del Borgo di San Pietro 1, for a unique combination of cocktails and 16th-century frescoes.
8pm
Trusty trattoria
Close by, dine on fabulous Bolognese pasta (made on the spot as you will see) at Dal Biassanot, Via Piella. Beside the restaurant take a peek through the Finestrella (little window) di Via Piella over the canal and you might believe you were in Venice.
10pm
Jazz in the cellar
Listen to the best live jazz in Bologna at Cantina Bentivoglio, Via Mascarella 4/B, in the antique cellars of the Palazzo Bentivoglio.