selection & storage

artichoke

Globe artichokes are in peak condition when their leaves are green and tight and they feel heavy for their size.

The best test for freshness is to rub the leaves together to check for a characteristic ‘squeak’. This is often considered a more reliable indicator than colour alone, as artichokes with some bronzing on the tips of their leaves (called the ‘winter kiss’ in some countries) have been touched by frost, which actually enhances their flavour and makes them the most highly prized of all.

Artichokes are dry and well past their prime when their leaves appear to be opening. They start deteriorating from the moment they are picked so freshness is of the essence. While best used on the day of purchase, unwashed artichokes can be stored in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

asparagus

Inspect the stem end and reject any asparagus that is wrinkled, dried out or split. Tips should be tight, bright and clean—pass over ones that look weepy or floppy. Choose spears roughly the same size so they will cook at the same time.

Debate rages over the pros and cons of fat spears versus thin spears, with some claiming one to be vastly superior to the other—but this is not necessarily the case. Buy the freshest asparagus possible and you can’t go too wrong with either.

Store asparagus for no longer than 2 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

avocado

Avocados should only be used when fully ripe, otherwise they are hard and completely tasteless.

To determine ripeness, cradle the fruit in your hands and apply slight pressure—it should ‘give’ slightly.

Avocados are perishable so, unless you plan to use them straight away, it is best to purchase them a little under-ripe—they will only take 2–3 days to fully soften at room temperature. Once ripe, store them in the refrigerator and plan on using them within 1–2 days.

broccoli

When buying broccoli, look for heads with tightly closed, compact, deep green florets, with no signs of yellowing. Broccoli with yellow flowers attached is over-mature and should be avoided. The stalks should be firm and not too thick or they will be woody. Any leaves attached to the stalk should be green and sprightly.

A fairly perishable vegetable, broccoli should be stored in a perforated or open plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper and used within 3–4 days. It should not be washed before storing, as water clinging to its surface will cause it to rapidly deteriorate.

Broccolini, which is a recent innovation and an Australian-developed hybrid, should have long, firm, clean stems topped with a smallish, compact head. Florets should be blue-green or green-purple in colour and leaves should be healthy looking (no wilting or browning) and olive green. A few yellow flowers per bunch are acceptable (about six or so) but more than this indicate over-maturity. Store in the same manner as broccoli.

capsicum

Choose capsicums that are heavy for their size and that have bright, tight, smooth, glossy skin with no watery-looking spots or wrinkled patches.

Capsicums are prone to mould and wrinkling, so store them in a ventilated bag in the crisper section of the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

carrot

Today, carrots are bred for consistency of colour and size. Gone, it seems, are the days of wiggly, misshapen carrots—they all seem to be uniformly straight and thick. Choose mature carrots with smooth, unblemished skin, exhibiting no soft, shrivelled, brown or wrinkled spots. The deeper the orange colour, the higher the betacarotene levels.

Avoid any with green ‘shoulders’ as these have been exposed to sunlight and will be bitter. Don’t buy overly-large carrots either as these will have a tough, woody core and not taste as sweet.

Generally, carrots are marketed without their luxurious, green tops—if you do happen to buy some with tops on, which should be green and fresh-looking with no signs of wilting or yellowing, cut these off for storage as they will drain the carrots of nutrients and moisture. Greens from extremely fresh young carrots have a distinctive, spicy taste and can be eaten chopped and tossed into a salad or soup.

corn

You can tell by the cuts to their stems how long ago corn was harvested—the fresher the cuts, the fresher the corn.

The cobs should feel and look moist and plump, with the kernels inside fat and shiny. Press against the husk and you should be able to feel the kernels within. The silk of the corn should also be a little sticky and look glossy, stiff and moist. Store corn, in its husks, in the refrigerator for 2–3 days only.

mushrooms

When buying mushrooms, look for unblemished specimens, with no signs of bruising, tearing or soft spots. The stems should still be intact and the caps firm, not shrivelled, dry or ‘tacky’, which indicates spoilage.

Store mushrooms in a paper bag (this prevents dehydration and allows them to ‘breathe’) in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Mushrooms absorb other flavours, so it is best not to store them near strong-smelling foods.

Mushrooms are porous and readily absorb water—they should not be washed before storing or using. Rather, trim stems, then lightly dust with a pastry brush or carefully wipe with a damp cloth to remove any dirt clinging to their surface. As with all rules, there is of course an exception—morels need to be thoroughly washed as bugs can hide in their hollow centres.

If planning to cook mushrooms whole then choose uniform-sized specimens so that they cook in approximately the same amount of time.

pumpkin (winter squash)

Whole pumpkins are very good keepers if stored in the right conditions. They should be unblemished and have thick skin, with an amount of stalk remaining to protect the interior from damp.

Buy what is locally grown and seasonally available, according to your needs. For example, a hubbard can weigh over 5 kg (11 lb) and once cut needs to be used within a few days or it will quickly become mouldy—so decide how much you can deal with at a time before you buy. Butternut pumpkins or the so-called jap and kent pumpkins are a more manageable size if leftovers are an issue.

If placed in a cool, well-ventilated place, they will last for several months. Cut pumpkin, as previously noted, is very perishable and should be refrigerated then eaten within a few days. If purchasing cut pieces of pumpkin, select those with bright, gleaming flesh and healthy-looking, moist interiors.

spinach (silverbeet)

When buying bunches of spinach, look for those with broad, spade-shaped, jade leaves and undamaged stems. Baby English spinach leaves can also be bought either loose or in pre-packed bags. These are an ideal salad green, but take care to choose small, dry leaves with no bruising, wilting or yellowing as they are extremely perishable.

Spinach needs to be washed carefully in several changes of cold water to eliminate any muddy residue

A delicate green, prone to bruising and other leaf damage, spinach shouldn’t be stored for longer than 2 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

sweet potato

Most sweet potatoes are aged for some weeks in order for their sugars to develop—freshly harvested sweet potatoes are generally not sweet. Choose ones with smooth, unblemished skins, exhibiting no bruises, mould or soft spots.

Only buy as many sweet potatoes as you need because they don’t last very long; store them at room temperature in a well-ventilated spot for 2–3 days and not in the refrigerator.

tomatoes

The test of a great tomato is in the aroma — sniff the stem and you should be able to detect a strong, sweet-acid smell.

Tomatoes that have been fully ripened on their vines by the sun are terribly perishable, which is why, for supermarket sale, they are picked while green. These tomatoes are then ripened to redness, or sunny yellowness, in controlled environments using ethylene gas and, even though they may look the part, their flavour, aroma and texture never fully develop.

Choose tomatoes that are plump-looking and shiny and that ‘give’ slightly to pressure when pressed. They should feel heavy for their size and, needless to say, be free of soft spots, blemishes and bruises. Tomatoes with such skin damage will quickly turn mouldy and spoil.

Tomatoes should be stored at cool room temperature, out of their packaging and definitely not in the refrigerator—and used within a few days.

The refrigerator diminishes the flavour of tomatoes; as a sub-tropical fruit, they do not like the cold. If you purchase under-ripe tomatoes (those with green ‘shoulders’ or the occasional green patch, for example) they will ripen fully, given the right conditions. Leave them somewhere warm and in full sunlight if possible.

The best way to store a glut of tomatoes for future use is by freezing. This can most easily be done by simply freezing them whole—once they thaw the skins will slip easily off and you just need to cut away the stem end. Alternatively, they can be frozen peeled and chopped or peeled and pureed.

zucchini (courgette)

Zucchini represent just one of the many ‘summer’ or ‘tender’ squashes available—there is also the crookneck squash; the round globe squash; the oval squash, like the scallopini; or pattypan squash. Pattypan squash are prized for their flesh which, when young and in prime condition, is buttery and dense. These squash are usually a distinctive yellow colour, but can also be either deep bright or pale green.

Choose small firm squash and steam them whole, for about 8–10 minutes, or until tender. Larger ones can be par-boiled for a few minutes, the insides scopped out, replaced with a stuffing and then baked. A fresh breadcrumb stuffing with plenty of chopped fresh herbs (basil, parsley, oregano) and parmesan cheese works beautifully.

basil

Basil tastes its best when harvested before the plant flowers, so when purchasing, avoid any with flowers in evidence. Leaves should be verdantly green, slightly glossy and devoid of holes or signs of decay.

A bunch of basil should keep for 1 week in the refrigerator—trim the ends of the stalks then place in a glass of water. Place the whole bunch in a plastic bag and seal. The leaves bruise very easily so don’t wash or chop them until just before you need them.

If you grow basil and have more than you can use, excess leaves can easily be frozen. Blanch them briefly in boiling water and drain. Plunge into iced water and drain again, then pat dry and freeze in airtight bags. There is no need to defrost before using.

bay leaf

Fresh leaves will keep, stored in a loosely sealed plastic bag, in the refrigerator for at least 1 week.

chives

Chives are delicate and do not last long once picked. Choose bunches with leaves that show no signs of yellowing, wilting or decay (water will cause them to start rotting). Store chives, wrapped in damp paper towels then placed in a loosely sealed plastic bag, in the refrigerator for up to 3–4 days.

coriander

Coriander does not store well, so should be used within 1–2 days or so of purchase and refrigerated in an airtight container until needed.

When purchasing, look for bunches with bright green, unblemished leaves; avoid overly limp bunches and do not purchase any that are bruised or showing signs of sliminess or yellowing.

dill

Dill is quite fragile and wilts very quickly after it is picked. To store it, spray with a fine mist of water, wrap carefully in damp paper towels then seal in a plastic bag and keep in the crisper section of the refrigerator for up to 5 days. You can also freeze dill for up to 8 weeks—it will turn an unattractive dark green colour and the flavour won’t be as strong as the fresh herb, but is still preferable to using dried dill.

lemon grass

Although you can purchase dried and powdered lemon grass, these are but pale imitations of the real thing—there really is no comparison. Choose lemon grass stalks that are plump and firm, with no signs of drying or brittleness. They will keep, stored in a tightly sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator, for 2–3 weeks.

Lemon grass can be successfully frozen. Cut off the tough green ends and wrap stalks tightly in foil and then plastic wrap. Cut from the stalk as you require lemon grass. It will lose a little of its potency but this is a preferable trade-off if the choice is between using a frozen or dried alternative.

mint

Mint owes its clean, cool flavour to the presence of the volatile oil menthol that quickly dissipates so, as is the case with most fresh herbs, avoid cutting or tearing the leaves until just before you use them.

When buying mint, choose bunches that are sprightly, with bright green leaves that show no signs of drooping or yellowing.

Fresh mint will store for 3–4 days when wrapped carefully in damp paper and loosely sealed in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

oregano and marjoram

As with all fresh herbs, choose oregano and marjoram that shows no signs of drooping, yellowing or drying. Stems of these herbs will store well in the refrigerator (up to 1 week) if wrapped in slightly damp paper towels then loosely sealed in a plastic bag.

parsley

When selecting parsley to buy, try to ensure it is young. This is a little easier to do with the flat-leaf (Italian) variety for as it ages the leaves become large, leathery and resemble celery leaves, and their flavour is coarse.

Store parsley with its stalks in a container of water in the refrigerator and with a plastic bag sealing the cup and leaves. Flat-leaf parsley can be stored wrapped in damp paper towels then loosely sealed in a plastic bag. Stored this way, parsley will keep for about 4 days.

rosemary

Rosemary is fairly robust, and not subject to the bruising or wilting of other more fragile herbs. When buying rosemary, look for sprightly, green-leafed sprigs with fresh, resinous aromas when a few are rubbed between your fingers. Old rosemary looks dried out and somewhat faded and its smell is similarly diminished.

Store fresh rosemary in an airtight container or sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

sage

Sage can be purchased in bunches—the leaves should be fresh-looking with no signs of wilting, brown spots or bruising. Stored in the refrigerator in a sealed plastic bag for 5–6 days.

tarragon

Choose tarragon with fresh-looking, unbruised leaves that show no signs of wilting. Store tarragon, wrapped in damp paper towels, then loosely sealed in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

thyme

Common thyme has tiny ovoid, tough, deep green leaves which are generally used whole, still attached to a branch as a sprig. Unlike most other herbs, common thyme is best added to dishes at the beginning of cooking and discarded before serving—the flavour subtly perfumes the dish whereas freshly chopped leaves tend to overpower and taste too ‘green’.

When buying thyme, select bunches with a profusion of compact, green leaves with no signs of dropping or drying out. Wrap the bunch in damp paper towels and place in a loosely sealed plastic bag—it will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.